New nut for the compound slide

[@tattoos1988]

Another quality video mate always informative and full of tips thanks for sharing 👍

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Alan, A good video... I like the part where you showed the viewers how you move the tool out to remove it from the bore (Zero) and how you mark with a pencil the depth of the last cut. I am sure lots of viewer will find this useful. Keep up the good work. Take care Paul,,

[@tpendletonYT]

Hi Alan, The video was really good end-to-end tutorial! Your attention to detail when explaining processes is greatly appreciated. Now, I will not be satisfied with the "play" on my old Atlas 10D cross slide.

[@OldtimeIronman]

Hi Alan, thanks for posting this -- I've a 1945 South Bend 9 that needs new feed nuts too. Strangely enough, everything else is fine with little or no wear, but the nuts are just about gone. I hope the bronze isn't too expensive...

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

Kudos for successfully making such a small internal threading tool! Way cheaper than buying an acme tap ...

[@youcoulduseit7492]

Ya good save . my lathe has a longi-feed screw with half nuts but it's one nut the feed lever pushes up on (not solid) thinking about drilling and brazing a block of steel or cast iron then cutting the threads in the braze and making a over center cam to pulll the two together got anymore HHO torch stuff thinking about building a bit bigger one of those but no much bigger big enough to do that thread repair thanks

[@howardosborne8647]

You had me confused for a moment when you said metric Acme thread. When I saw your lathe dials were metric I could see it is a metric trapezoidal thread with 30 degree inclusive angle you were producing. It is a very common slip of the tongue. I've been guilty of it myself a few times. I do prefer to use the carbide form inserts for these type of threads but when in a very small bore like this then there isn't sufficient room to clear the tip and holder and hand ground is the only option. Good job,it all turned out nicely.👍

[@zukjeff]

@21:00 you should wind the thread all the way into the new nut before doing up the grub screw. You wat to have the new nut at the correct height in its bore so the shaft is on line with the thread in the nut.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Thanks for yet another interesting and educating, impressive and well produced video. As we say here, one must have the patience of an angel to do work like this. At the time 12:00 You center the bronze stock. It looks like a Joe Pie trick (hope I'm not insulting You) but are You sure that the thickness, radially, is the same of the chuck jaws? At some 18:00.... Comming close to the finish of the cut I experienced that the cross slide needs to be retracted quite some more than in the beginning of the cut. (the thread is deeper). It's easy to get out of sync when positioning the cross slide for the next cut using the hand crank only. I use a dial indicator as cross slide zero position having no DRO on the lathe yet. Time 19:45 Tidious work to pull the screw out for testing and then putting it back. That's life, sometimes..... Time 20:00 Just more of it, and worse. Well done!

[@enotsengineering]

Hi Stefan the 4 jaw chuck jaws are machined on inside and out and you can measure the width. this was the only way I could think of setting the bar central in the chuck

[@MetamorphicWonders]

Can you show how to set a basic machining tool and parting tool. And the different types of ground cutting blades/tools.. also how to adjust the height of the blade/tool. My boxford has no up or down to go higher or lower for the tool fitted. Do i use shims to make it higher?

[@enotsengineering]

Hi Yes if you don't have hight adjustment on your tool holder you need to use packing under the tool to set the tool on centre line. I have many videos that will answer your questions go to my channel Enots engineering.

[@josemacielzamudio1773]

Excelente lo suyo, muy bueno, José desde Florida Uruguay.

[@samrodian919]

Nice job Alan, how much wear was in the original nut? And is there any appreciable wear in the top slide leadscrew?

[@enotsengineering]

Hi The original nut is 50 years old, the top slide nut was replaced about 5 years ago but with DRO fitted its not a problem as you know the tool position

[@WRFUSINAGENS]

Ótimo trabalho amigo, parabéns, ficou muito bom.

[@TheElderlyBiker]

Do you know the actual size of the thread? Is it Acme in form, Metric or something special Boxford cam up with? Matt

[@enotsengineering]

Hi Matt It Is a metric thread as the dials are in metric it could be a metric trapezoidal thread I just made a copy of the original thread

[@TheElderlyBiker]

@@enotsengineering It appears the nuts are a mix of imperial and metric . so not easy if you want to use a specil tap. I'll have to try your method in due course.

[@CraigLYoung]

Now that you used your new indicator, how do you like it?

[@enotsengineering]

Hi Craig Its a lot faster than having to reverse the tool to the start. Plus if you have the take the cutting tool out you can use the thread dial to realign the tool to the correct position

[@CraigLYoung]

enots engineering : Yeah, I grew up using them so watching you reverse the lathe was strange to me.

[@NavinBetamax]

...at 8:04...thereabouts.......Vice ???? Chuck !!! ?

[@enotsengineering]

thanks