Ep. 12 - A Mast Emergency - Compression Post Failure ~ Big Easy Sailing

[@todddunn945]

You guys need to start using epoxy and marine hardware. Basically the white wood block and plain marine plywood under the mast will rot out relatively quickly. "Construction Grade" screws and hardware have no place on a boat. All screws should be either silicon bronze or stainless steel. Next time start by loosening the stays and shrouds. They do not need to be tight when you are working on the mast step. In fact they can be quite loose. The mast will not fall over. Overall a nice temporary repair until you can fabricate a new post with a wiring run. I would suggest clear Douglas Fir or white oak for the post. Glue the new post up with epoxy backed by silicon bronze screws (particularly at the bottom and top where the post is likely to get wet. I would also coat the end grain at the top and bottom of the post with epoxy to minimize water absorption into the post.

[@TheMogjo]

That stringer is totally rotten too it looks, huge concern for them

[@BigEasySailing]

Shawn did start with loosening the stays and shrouds. We used decking wood screws coated in bronze for wet applications. As for the wood, we created a post that is structurally stronger than what was removed (three pieces of 1xs with the center board over halfway hollowed out for the wiring). The pressure treated pine is acceptable for marine application and not uncommon. No worries about the wiring either. We will be using the trim to hide the wiring. Good idea to coat the ends tho, appreciate it. And most importantly, whole base and all hardware are fiberglassed with West System epoxy. Didn't mention the West System brand but did mention the fiberglassing multiple times. The stringer is superficially damaged. Cleaned it up and added fiberglass as well.

[@Sqeezerful]

Those are valid points. I can understand the need for an improvised repair, but this might increase the effort to fix the then epoxied-in-place construction once the pine starts rotting and hardware corroding. You might want to investigate why the mast foot is leaking. Probably it is a good idea to monitor how the pine evades the pressure over time and copes with ubiquitous moisture. The grain and wood defects didn't look ideal to take the vertical pressure (e.g. 11:35). Maybe you varnish the pine with a transparent coating so that any damage (rot) is obvious.

[@MrHradecky]

I would have made an aluminum post. Those Home Depot materials will rot in about 28 months.

[@justlooking2222]

Also, never epoxy over fasteners especially stainless, they become oxygen starved and will corrode. Stainless above the waterline and bronze below. A solid piece of good douglas fir would be a good choice.

[@roberthoyle6442]

I agree.with Todd, this should be a temporary repair. White oak is the wood of choice for marine use, bronze screws and epoxy. These are all more expensive, but will be an investment if you plan to keep the boat.

[@jochenludewig8857]

So lucky you picked up on the rotten timber in the compression post...catastrophic potential and now all fixed. You were also fortunate to have someone with marine expertise to identify the problem and fix it properly. Great job Dean and Shawn.......impressive workmanship all round!

[@BigEasySailing]

Front cabin falling in on itself would have probably been Game Over! This fix will get us by until we get our mast pulled...Then we will replace the compression post with alloy. Water coming down the mast is a fight that will never end. For now, we can move on to other projects. Thank you!

[@user-nt8xv1ns7w]

Your right, better to find in Port than on the open water. Good job, hope there's no more hidden challenges. She's looking shipshape, nice to have help from Mr. Rigger. Bet sundown brought smiles. Happy day, look forward to the next.

[@BigEasySailing]

Thanks!

[@mikemendes7598]

100% agree with the recommendation on the Loos gauge. That will ensure rig tension is consistent esp side to side on the rig. Another tip: To make sure the mast is absolutely straight up and down, take a low stretch halyard that goes to the top of the mast, and take it one side of the boat, next to the shroud base. Mark with tape where it meets the gunwale. Go to the other side and check that it hits the gunwale at the same point. Must be a no wind day, obviously. If your Loos gauge indicates equal tension and your halyard indicates the mast is leaning to one side or the other, you may have unequal length shrouds or turnbuckles. It may also be possible in a boat that old that the gunwale has been damaged, so make sure you pick sports where it hasn't been pushed down for some reason. There probably isn't a tension chart for that boat as it's too old and was never raced. But your rigger may be able to come up with one with a little trial and error to let you know how much tension should be in the rig. Also helps get things back to status quo after you've taken the mast down for any reason. I'd also measure the base of the shroud plates where they meet the deck, from the bow to make sure the factory put them in the same relative place fore and aft.

[@BigEasySailing]

Appreciate the info. We are looking into getting a Loos gauge for the future. The rigger has agreed to come back out whenever the boat is ready to go sailing for him to tune up all the rigging. Think that covers us. Thanks!

[@gogs1468]

Nice job, I would not have known where to start except shout HELP!

[@BigEasySailing]

It was daunting at first. Major shout out to Dean for all his help.

[@gogs1468]

I can imagine.

[@michaeltillman1147]

Aww ya made it look easy. 😎

[@Ivansgarage]

Holy Shit, Luckily you guys caught that and not in the middle of the ocean.

[@BigEasySailing]

Just subscribed to your channel. Going to watch some of your electric motor videos later. Might learn something useful for our own motor.

[@Ivansgarage]

Not for a boat, if you know anything about electric cars most will only run for an hour or two before they need to be charged and solar would take way to long to charge. Plus a shit load of batteries. You can also find a lot of info on my website and forum. ivanbennett.com/ ivanbennett.com/forum/

[@peterengel7885]

sailjan15_monroeth7_article-1.pdf Some info for electric on a sail boat

[@dabprod4962]

Wow.....major undertaking. Good luck.

[@davidrussell6821]

Amazing work! Way to go guys! It's painful to even imagine if you hadn't have caught this now!

[@johnbolongo9978]

Looks like your ready for some blue water sailing....beautiful repair. Way overkill.

[@jhlewis10]

Wow thumbs up for tackling that job!

[@BigEasySailing]

Thanks!

[@urabus7875]

nice

[@alainbedard2284]

Why not a stainless steel post (bolted). Good for life?? Something I'm missing maybe???

[@stevesheliflying]

Wow!!! I was hoping to see a sailing video of you guys, but so glad you guys found that potentially dangerous problem. So glad you were able to get it fixed, and what a great job you did. I bet a few beers were had after that task was done... Your boat looks awesome by the way.

[@BigEasySailing]

Thanks!

[@itsmedaveh5516]

Love the videos. I became a Patron today. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to seeing you two sailing too.

[@BigEasySailing]

Welcome to the Big Easy Sailing Krewe!!!!! Thanks for the support and encouragement.

[@jefffrazer6065]

Wow! Best repair video yet!! So glad you found this while in harbor.Just found your site a couple days ago and having so much fun catching up on your adventure.Congratulations on the new boat!Thanks for all the great video.Fair winds ,,,/),,,

[@rogers53]

Thank god you found that when you did.

[@terencesmith4137]

Great job!

[@HobbitHomes263]

Had the same problem with my 83 Hunter. Glassed m-Balm treated base onto the keel and installed a commercial galvanized steel jack post. I had to fabricate a plate for the top of the jack post to match the bottom of the mast. The jack post was $25. But no messing around with the shims , just cranked the screw until everything was tight and deck height restored then dri and pin the jack screw. Then I just reinstalled the trim wood around the post.

[@stallzzeee9232]

Gooood Work! All around

[@freeman-jk1sl]

great vibes commin at ya from d' big ezzy

[@jimjones6915]

I think you guys have done a wonderful job fixing your boat up. I think you should sell it and upgrade to a more seaworthy boat for open ocean safety. I would look for keel stepped mast and oversized rigging.

[@MrRay3801]

Great job on the repair....i see that you used a level, did you pull the boat out of the water? If not, always use measurements to plumb stuff up on anything floating. That level will lie to you on a bobbing boat lol

[@dabprod4962]

I was think that very thing myself.

[@BigEasySailing]

We did use the level a lot but choose calm days to replace the post on. Guess you didn't notice the measurements written out on the support beam? A lot of reference measurements were taken as well to compensate for any healing the boat was doing. It just didn't make it past editing.

[@billhanna8838]

had a similer problem once replaced the rotten wooden post with a thick walled s/s post , looked flash but in the winter cold to touch so sealed it with a leather cover - very swish... well done, Oh we found out problem sailing, come down below & found the deck head sagging - scary , wondered why we were not going to wind ward so good .

[@BigEasySailing]

Can't imagine how scary that was to find! Glad everything worked out.

[@allynonderdonk7577]

The white wood block might cause you trouble later on. They sell some type of board that is basically waterproof for marine construction. I am blanking on the name. Stainless screws and hardware brackets are also a good idea, but if all fiber-glassed should last at least 10 years I'd say. Also make sure if you are using construction grade products to get the pressure treated stuff, as it last longer on boats.

[@BigEasySailing]

No worries, everything is fiberglassed, pressure treated and/or marine grade. I think you are looking for the word starboard aka marine plywood. That was what the bottom white piece was.

[@davidbryant3131]

Starboard is NOT marine grade plywood. and marine grade plywood is NOT marine grade. You should have actually used starboard or built up a fiberglass bottom plate.

[@bobbybaldeagle702]

I must say praise God that you kids found that problem while you were still in Safe Harbor what a blessing that you were not to sea some where and have the mass fail You... And I also praise God that the right people were around to help you kids fix the problem and that what they did worked. It the seam to go real smooth that's a blessing.... God always makes everything work out for our good.... I pray that God continues to keep you kids safe and keeps on blessing y'all on your journey... Looking forward to your next videos... Be blessed... BBE 🤗😁

[@BigEasySailing]

We feel like we are on our path. Somethings are meant to work out. Thank you!

[@sachamo100]

I had the same thing happen on the first boat I had.

[@TheMogjo]

I really hope this is a temporary fix. That stringer sure looks like it needs attention also, totally rotten

[@BigEasySailing]

It got some attention too!

[@deibertmichael]

An Aluminum Post would be ideal!

[@jimjones6915]

Survey should have caught that

[@BigEasySailing]

We would hope it would have, but can't really know for sure since it wasn't done. This is just part of the repercussions of not having one done.

[@oceannavagator]

Good job! Just so you'll know, the pressure of the mast on the compression post when sailing hard to weather in a fresh breeze can be as much as twice the weight of the boat. Deck stepped masts have always been problematic and in your case, with the hole directly under the mast step you don't even have the advantage of not leaking there which is one of the problems with keel stepped masts.

[@Matthew24.4]

Do you know how water got into the compression post? Any concerns over it getting back in? I'm so glad that you found this at the marina. It could have easily turned into a disaster at sea. Just found your channel. Thanks for the video.

[@BigEasySailing]

No concerns, the water was leaking from the mast and the automatic bilge pump wasn't working, combined with neglect and bugs and voila, our compression post. With a new bilge pump and sealed mast, it won't be happening again. Thanks for watching!

[@californiakayaker]

I saw a ship on video being rescued for a broken mast. Something like this could have caused it. So much pressure on a mast. I guess that's going to be a super priority for me, checking that system, if I get the chance to do this.

[@willywonka8730]

Be prepared -that wooden block will split along the grain. Replace with aluminum block for a truly permanent solution - also post should be aluminum box. Make a note to check the keel fastening system and the chain plates. These are critical. At this point I would stop ALL work, pull the boat and have it surveyed. This boat is far from sea worthy until proven otherwise.

[@BigEasySailing]

I like the way you talk

[@svbarryduckworth628]

Got 'er done. Great video guys. It should last a few years at least. Better than what you had there at least. You should have a rigging tension gauge on the boat if you don't have one already. The Loos rigging gauge isn't too expensive at about $100 for the regular non-pro version. It's a must have tool. If you make a habit of monitoring and logging your rig tension you'll see any issue before it becomes catastrophic. You gotta do what you gotta to follow this dream, so no judgments about the bubba repair to the compression post. It is what it is and I'm sure you guys have gotten enough flack about it. Just get a tension gauge so you can monitor that new post's performance and lifecycle closely, and especially keep an eye out for any issues down at the keel, encapsulation or not. Water gets in because truly encapsulating anything is pretty difficult to pull off in practice. Water just gets in. That post definitely looks strong enough to do the job now, but non-marine materials will shorten its lifespan compared to a more legit repair with proper woods and stainless/bronze fasteners and brackets. Don't let the next failure sneak up on you. I don't know how wet of a boat you have but if there is any moisture down there in the bilge I don't think that base is going to be too long-lasting even encapsulated in epoxy at the bottom so keep an eye on it. That'll be your weakest link. The clock is ticking on that repair. Don't let it be a time-bomb.

[@ExetPlan]

I agree with Barry. I'd also like to add that I would start mining the advice from sailors, as no sailor I know would have recommended fixing such a vital component in this fashion. Once again, great resources for this type of information is the sailboat discussion forums. You guys are planning on taking this boat offshore. There's a difference between doing a substandard repair on your house (if this fails, a portion of your roof caves-in, and bodily injury is doubtful), versus a boat you've trusted with your life 1200 miles offshore. The internet is littered with SAR stories of sailboat "dreamers" lost at sea, or prematurely activating their EPIRB at the slightest sign of trouble due to their lack of diligence and/or seamanship. Don't be one of them.

[@bobbyv9393]

It was hard to see but have you checked the stringer and bulkhead for softwood damage. agree with the silicon bronze or stainless fastners.

[@BigEasySailing]

There was some superficial damage to the stringer, it was cleaned up and fiberglassed over as well.

[@liongod1000]

Nice job Dean & Shawn, hope you did an 'Over-kill' on Fibreglassing and Epoxy painting that base?

[@BigEasySailing]

Of course! 😉

[@johnnybarbar7435]

Wow! That could have been a disaster offshore.

[@BigEasySailing]

That's how we feel!

[@CombatDoc54]

I hope you all do not listen to all of these negative comments or the comments about "well, you should have done this, or you should have done that". F them.

[@BigEasySailing]

Believe it or not, we still learn from the negative comments. We would rather take advise from a legit Structural Engineer than some random "know it alls" .. Sure, there is always a better way or better material. When you are in the middle of the Everglades and have an emergency like this, you act fast and use the best materials available. Period.

[@alz2698]

As a ships carpenter I have to agree with all these guys opinions on the use of the materials being inferior. You should have put a disclaimer on that video begging people not to try this at home. You've put a matchstick under your mast. I pray you never need to put up a video in 24-36 months explaining how the post twisted, bent and spring-loaded itself and catastrophically exploded out and lost the mast through the bottom of the Hull sinking the boat and god forbid injuring you guys. The fix has got a countdown timer on it. It's not a case of if but when. Try avoid heavy weather till you have a more secure fix in place or you'll be naming your mast after the boat. As someone pointed out Get a loos gauge and use it as your early warning system and use it on all your stays on a weekly basis. Sorry if I appear to sound like the grim reaper but I'll be worrying about you guys in a year's time till I know you have a safe perm-fix on that up-coming situation. Avoid using construction carpenters on your lovely boat as a marine carpenter would have discussed the dangers of using such materials. And fixings with you first and saved you time and affort. Good luck with the rest of your project I hope it all works out well for yous.

[@BigEasySailing]

We discovered the damage and considered it an emergency since the weather was consistently windy at the time. We used the materials available to us in the middle of nowhere Florida. We realize a better, permanent solution needs to take place.

[@SailingPivo]

Wow! Very impressive however, how do you know the new compression post is strong enough? Would you feel safe in 40 know winds with the new post?

[@BigEasySailing]

That was a temporary fix, due to us being in the middle of nowhere... Check out the episode where we fab & install our sweet permanent alloy post. Thanks!

[@nonyayet1379]

I don't know if you have done it yet. but i think you made some mistakes that require fixing. it looks like you did a great job, except: (I'll apologize in advance if i'm off course here. but I'd hate to see ya'll in a bad position out in the middle of blue water. ) 1. the new style of treated wood is terrible. Myself i am having to replace about 90 treated posts after just a few years in the ground. however, yours should be fine, if you keep an eye on it. if it does need repaired, i'd strongly recommend marine plywood, cut into strips, and then glued n screwed, creating a glue laminate. when i say screwed, I'd use stainless (or coated) carriage (or hex head) bolts (they can be counter sunk) no less than 1/4" but I'd do 1/2" if it was my boat. that gives you rigidness (no flex) and long term durability (less chance of rot). otherwise, I'm thinking non treated dog fir, but coated with linseed oil, and varnished on all surfaces to ensure longevity. Sailing Emerald Steel did a video on building a new mast, and a bow sprit using that method. check that out. treated lumber doesn't like paint or varnish. not sure how it likes linseed oil, but I don't think you'd have good luck with it. 2. the galvanized construction grade plates you used are great where there is air circulation, but with no circulation, with condensation that's normal on a boat, coupled with salt water, and they'll rust within a relatively short time, a year or 3 is my best guess. i stronly recommend that you replace that plate with stainless. I'd figure no less than 1/8" stock, but wouldn't hesitate to go 1/4" stock. 3. the doozy. the big one. from what i could see, you put non coated screws in the base plate. the treated material will make them rot out (rust) in a year or twos time, not even calculating exposure to salt water. the new treated lumber is highly corrosive. I had to redo my signage in a years time that i screwed into treated lumber. it's really that bad. coated is good. I'm not sure what would be better stainless or coated. if you could get coated stainless that'd be awesome. I forgot about Bronze as Todd Dunn indicated. costly, a pain in the butt, but very effective. but i doubt they would last with construction grade treated lumber. I do not know how marine plywood is since the new laws 12 or so years ago on treating lumber. I'm sure there are plenty of salty's that have that answer.

[@OrvilleHarmison]

Way to go guys, I spent 40 years in construction and had to put in many post like that in remodels, I know how difficult it can be. Nice Job !!!

[@BigEasySailing]

Appreciate it!!!!

[@dickdueck6537]

Seems like a lot of time, effort and not nearly enough money for a temporary repair, intentional or not. Do not rely on hope to keep the stick up.

[@cliffjamerson3107]

Thank GOD you didn't have to buy the wood from westmarine

[@joshuajones1363]

I hope you put epoxy on the wood so it will absorb the epoxy and not the agents of the fiberglass otherwise the fiberglass will delaminate.

[@bobbooby7588]

You should of used white cedar instead of pressure treated

[@BigEasySailing]

Pressure treated was the best available to us.

[@pierremitham2964]

sched 40 ALU pipe is suprisingly cheap and much more durable!

[@harveynailbanger]

Treated yellow pine wouldn't be my choice for this repair.. the stuff you get at the box stores is not marine grade. It's .40 cca, where marine grade is .80. and the pine is a soft wood.... I'd think an oak would be a better choice. Glad you found it before the rig failed that could've been disasterous....

[@jimjones6915]

I agree with Todd. Turn around and go home. Sell that piece of shit. Any boat over 30 feet should have a keel stepped mast. Day sailor one thing, offshore another

[@MegaAhhhhhhh]

How can you use a level in a boat that is in the water ??? Lol

[@keithb6717]

funny!

[@SawmillerSmith]

I don't think you can use a level on a boat that is on water moving around.might be better than guessing though

[@MrHradecky]

Yeah really. Shift your weight 12" one way or another and your off bubble.

[@Josef_R]

Not to mention the fact that it is impossible to balance any load on a boat. Guaranteed not to be level.

[@robertlee8042]

Why replace it with wood? You’re just making work for yourself.

[@BigEasySailing]

Go on google maps and find raw materials in Pahokee or close by in the everglades. Good luck. Do what you gotta do with what materials are available...or do like hundreds of others do....abandon ship! There are free boats all over Florida.

[@chriseiserman9813]

@@BigEasySailingYou're kidding, right? You do know this is the 21st century, right? You could have ordered a 4" square x 1/4" wall x 84" long aluminum tube for the post, and a couple pieces of 1/4" x 5" pieces of aluminum flat bar for the flanges from Amazon. Guessing $250 delivered to your doorstep. Jim Hooks Welding in Belle Glade could have welded it up . I'm guessing $50 for that. It would have been a proper fix. It was your guys choice to refit the boat in Pahokee because of cheap moorage. Please don't use your location as an excuse.