Ep01: Clough42 Electronic Leadscrew | How hard can it be ?

This project has been on my list for a long time. After 6 months the TI microprocessor has finally arrived and it is finally time to get this project started!
Link to mycncuk forum (my lathe mod thread) - scroll to post #49
www.mycncuk.com/threads/9141-L...
Links to James Clough's original (amazing) project:
Clough42 KZbin start of the series:
• Lathe Electronic Leads...
Clough42 WiKi project page:
github.com/clough42/electroni...
Link to Code Composer Studio software:
www.ti.com/tool/CCSTUDIO-C2000
(note: I could not get the latest version 12 to work as it did not support the debugger. I used the same version as James - release 9 build 10.)

[@g.tucker8682]

I bought a used Belgian 12x36 lathe through ebay, and it turned out the quick change gearbox was mostly trashed. I was trying to figure out how to fabricate new gears when I stumbled across James' project. Building it was a real challenge - I had no coding or even soldering experience. With perseverance I managed it, learned a lot along the way, and resurrected a fine machine.

[@routercnc9517]

Sounds like quite a project well done!

[@thelimike]

great video, description is excellent. I put my together about two years ago and I love it.

[@routercnc9517]

OK great! Enjoying mine too.

[@misterfixit1952]

Hi, just found your channel and am enjoying watching your thought process and build method. I have a Harbor Freight 9x20 lathe that I have/am modifying extensively. As most hobby machinists know, these machines are really just DIY kits designed to stimulate the imagination and provide a skill-building experience as we MOD our way to the perfect budgetary substitute for the $10,000 lathe of our dreams. I also have Clough42 (Jame's) ELS kit, which I plan on installing along with several other upgrades such as a 2hp Baldor DC treadmill motor. I like the VFD idea but I already have the Baldor (for free). BTW, James can afford most of his new machines, partly, because he has sold over 2000 ELS kits in the past 3 years. Good for him, he deserves it for all of the time he puts into his fine videos. I'm looking forward to viewing your efforts as well.

[@routercnc9517]

Yes I did see how many he had sold and did a quick calculation. But good for him, most of us would never have found a way through the options for hardware and writing the code. Good luck with yours and welcome aboard. Mine is now working but it was a journey!

[@xyzspec82]

James is the man! He did a really good job with this kit.

[@routercnc9517]

Now I’m putting it together I can really appreciate his time and efforts.

[@incubatork]

Looking forward to this series, hope its a bit shorter than james's, reminds me of your drill press, always something else to modify.......😆 While we are at the start could you keep track of the total cost so as to help decide wheather to do it now or save a bit more dosh before starting. Having everything on hand other than proprietary brackets etc is a good idea.

[@routercnc9517]

I’ll see what I can do. Some of it will be common costs and some of it custom.

[@Festivejelly]

I was going to do this project... but then I found the Nano ELS H4 and I honestly think its the best solution out there.

[@routercnc9517]

I thought I had looked at that a while ago but a quick google search shows this is the H4 model using the ESP32, whereas I think I originally Iooked at the H2 Arduino based unit. Anyway, looks very capable, controlling both axes. Price looks good to for the main control unit, and looks like you connect the encoder, the 2 stepper drivers, and maybe general purpose in/outs, and 5V, and you are done. Yes, worth a look / comparison.

[@molitovv]

Best thing about your machine running quieter is that you can hear when something else goes wrong, you'd never hear a new issue with all that rumpus going on.

[@routercnc9517]

Yes. And a quiet machine is a happy machine!

[@karlkiernan6863]

An electroninc leadscrew is a great project for any lathe especially and old one with a wornout leadscrew. I am currently converting a Smart and Brown 1024 with a kit from ELS with new ballscrews. I had a Warco 250 or 280 and made some really cool stuff with it but those gears are a bit janky.

[@routercnc9517]

Yes the gears always seemed to rattle around, even after adjusting. Now they are gone and it runs nice and smooth. Good luck with your project!

[@bobuk5722]

Hi, One of the problems with some dc controller variants was down to bad installation of the control boards. No heat sinks on the output drivers! On my 290 variant I repositioned the control board, added a substantial DIY heat sink and two over-run cooling fans - one for the electronics, one for the motor - and have never had any problems. A good vfd with vector control though would give more torque at low speed and I do wish these machines had a back gear ..... latest ones come with cam lock - even more annoying!

[@routercnc9517]

Ok that makes sense. Good upgrade.

[@fuzzy1dk]

you could probably fit the encoder with a gear and stepper on an arm like the gear carrier (banjo?) so it all mounts with no changes to the lathe. One way to make the stepper (or worse servo) fit under the cover would be to use an angle drive

[@routercnc9517]

Maybe, I’m not sure about an angle drive though as it would have backlash. I’m not worried about modifying the lathe to make it work and fit neatly. I’m still considering the best location for the servo as the integrated one James used is a bit bigger with the driver mounted to it. Got some ideas . . .

[@fuzzy1dk]

@@routercnc9517 I'm not sure a little backlash matters much, the original gears also had backlash and you'll always have some backlash in the halfnut

[@bobuk5722]

Hi,me again. I installed James' ELS on an Amadeal 290V - first time I've ever complied code! And if I can anybody can - I'm in my 70s.... excellent video guides supported by Github documentation. Thoroughly recommended, makes cutting threads - metric or imperial on metric or imperial lathes - a dream. Top tip? Read the instructions!

[@routercnc9517]

Well done!

[@thisnicklldo]

I subscribe to Clough42, he makes great videos, and the ELS project was a really good series. He also seems to be quite a wealthy man, perhaps he has a good job, perhaps youtube, perhaps both. Anyway, the ELS project looks great, but I doubt you'll get any change out of £500, maybe more if you have to buy metal stock for the mounting etc. I doubt you paid more than £1500 for the lathe (they are more now, of course), but it's quite a big investment on what was supposed to be a low cost machine tool. Gears are cheap, never 'miss steps', and transfer torque with no issues. His seems to work really well, so not to carp - but quite a luxury thing. Not much use saying that to a man who quite happily spent 2 years and a lot of money upgrading his drill press. Good luck with it, looking forward to the series.

[@routercnc9517]

Yes those are good point. I paid around £2000 for the lathe but that included DRO and quick change tool post. I just love tinkering, the challenge of designing and building things. I get where you are coming from but the ability to instantly switch feedrates really appeals to me. I might be allowed 1 or 2 hours in the workshop so I don’t want to spend that changing gears over. I’m OK with the costs as it is part of the hobby and overall enjoyment. Thanks

[@HM-Projects]

@@routercnc9517 haha yeah, nobody works on hobby lathes hoping to break even. I spent $1800 aussie on the lathe and probably 3 times as much in various tooling, inserts, electronics and stock. You do you based on what you can spend. If I had the money I'd probably buy a fully rebuilt Monarch 10EE and add an electronic leadscrew as well :P

[@routercnc9517]

Yes. I don’t smoke, drink or gamble, and don’t play or follow sport. I have always enjoyed making things and am fortunate to have a bit of hobby money left over each month to have fun.

[@bobuk5722]

Yes, £500, but think what all the gears to cut the various metric and imperial threads the ELS can manage with either metric or an imperial lead screw would cost. Cost is always a consideration of course, like others here I don't drink or smoke so I spend the spare cash on things I enjoy doing. There's a restricted range of fairly cheap type metal gears that come with the machine and decent change gears would cost a fair bit. Time saving is n't a big deal perhaps for us amateurs but frustration is - speed and or feed selection is at the touch of a button. If you get a chance to try one out please do so, I think you would like it.

[@quickdrawmcgraw4394]

Let's not forget the electr9ni leadscrews can stop on a dime. You can thread with carbide inserts at high speeds without worrying you're going to crash. There's a lot of benefit to these leadscrews. There's nothing wrong with wanting to keep up In this ultra competitive world.

[@user-mv2bw7lg8z]

Cool man! Thank you.

[@routercnc9517]

You’re welcome!

[@lukerickert5203]

I am a bit late to the party but anyone else looking into an ELS should consider Rocketronics. They are just super nice and well developed. It is a finished controller box ready to go and you get two axis control which is so much more useful than a single axis.

[@ProfSimonHolland]

oh wow....i have a w 250. i must check those power cables under the spindle.

[@routercnc9517]

Yes, worth checking

[@snaplash]

I recently decided to try threading on my Myford ML-7, but when I looked at all the change gears and little screws holding them on, with a junk-filled scrap bucket just below them, I decided to thread my item with a die instead :( I'm wondering when lathes might start shipping with electronic leadscrews standard or as options.

[@routercnc9517]

For small short threads, say M5, especially up to a shoulder I often still use my tailstock die holder. Where the ELS shines is the larger threads when dies are expensive. Given how much this project cost I’m not sure lathes will ship with one as standard as the gears are probably much cheaper to make, but an option might happen.

[@sonsrc1326]

I do like the can we make it better can wait to c how this turns out

[@routercnc9517]

Me too!

[@tonypratt1989]

Hi routercnc, I did a Clough42 ELS conversion on my Warco 290V a couple of years ago which you might want to have a look at but I can't post pictures on here, is that correct? can someone please advise.

[@routercnc9517]

Maybe post them on the mycncuk forum? Or the is a PM section on there. When I get to my PC I’ll put a link to the thread for my lathe in the description box above. It would be great to see how you did it!

[@tonypratt1989]

@@routercnc9517 Have a look at my video

[@routercnc9517]

I was notified you have replied but KZbin is not showing me what you said :( If it helps here is the link to the thread in mycncuk: Link to mycncuk forum (my lathe mod thread) - scroll to post #49 www.mycncuk.com/threads/9141-Lathe-suggestions/page3 I just remembered - you may need a few posts before adding pictures (to prevent spam). Add a few replies to my thread and hopefully that will unlock it. Otherwise I'll PM the site owner assuming your username is similar to your YT username (Tony Pratt) and he may be able to unlock it quicker . . .

[@tonypratt1989]

@@routercnc9517 I now have a KZbin video

[@routercnc9517]

Looks great. The motor I ordered is quiet long. How long is yours and did you need to cut a hole in the cover? Also just discovered that the gear on the main spindle is an absolutely perfect fit for a T5 belt and matches a T5 40T gear in diameter. I’m going to drive off that via a T5 belt to give a perfect drive signal with no backlash!

[@molitovv]

Woooo!

[@routercnc9517]

My thoughts exactly!

[@Petrolhead66]

3 phase, did you do a vid about the co version

[@routercnc9517]

If you mean the inverter on the lathe that came fitted from the factory

[@Petrolhead66]

@routercnc9517 Thanks for the speedy reply. Interesting, I have the wm290v but sure there is no inverter. Currently watching the series for the ELS, like your style

[@routercnc9517]

I’ve had mine for many years but when I bought it Warco did different options for speed control which used a belt drive, a DC speed controller or an inverter. I went with the inverter model.

[@bobuk5722]

Hi folks, I've done one. I do not like the way the leads are brought forward behind the OEM control panel. Some, including the all important panel earth are in distinct danger of being rubbed through by the spindle. Not of merchantable quality! On my 290 variant they were a least in their own hole. I don't know this model but f you can run them separately even if not installing an ELS. Maybe install a shield and keep them behind that or at least cable anchors screwed into the head casting. Ugh!

[@routercnc9517]

Yes I had to tidy up the original wiring with cable clamps to prevent them rubbing on the spindle shaft inside the headstock

[@paulwomack5866]

If you want a justification other than "weird pitch threads" I just watched a video of a guy who built a whole device to cut oil grooves in a bushing. I see no reason an electronic leadscrew (AKA CNC X axis!) couldn't do this.

[@routercnc9517]

True that would work!

[@DPTech_workroom]

Great Job! I have ELS on both axis )))))

[@routercnc9517]

Really, wow! What do you do on the cross-slide to need ELS there?

[@DPTech_workroom]

@@routercnc9517 go to the end of the video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZylppKOZsd_mtU

[@HM-Projects]

@@routercnc9517 There are a few ELS projects that handle both axes and automate some basic operations. There's also a commercial version Rocketronics in Germany build and sell. It's one step away from full CNC.

[@routercnc9517]

OK that makes sense but for cutting threads it’s not a big deal to disengage the half nut and wind back for the next pass, so I’m ok with that. Changing the gears is a pain though. Before I bought this lathe I did strongly consider scratch building a CNC slant bed lathe, but I’m so glad I bought a manual lathe. You can just walk up to it and make a custom part by just using the DROs and a drawing. For multiples though yes CNC or highly automated makes sense.

[@HM-Projects]

@@routercnc9517 even for one offs, it makes my life easier. Turning or boring stock to a required dimension, accurate tapers etc. I built one for myself and use it extensively. It automates the mundane parts of manual turning.

[@tiagolomar]

Nice VFD….these delta série M are true work horses….

[@DPTech_workroom]

Do you know, how to set up the relay output to turn on, when the motor is running? (P46 - need FWD and REV too)

[@routercnc9517]

I’m sorry I don’t know. This was already fitted when I installed the lathe many years ago. I just opened the back cover to take a picture before it was mounted to the bench and I would no longer be able to access it.

[@tiagolomar]

@@DPTech_workroom did you already tried-02.zero speed? You could use nc contact instead no contact

[@LeeRobertsMe]

So the solution is to have two lathes with dedicated 3 and 4 jaw chucks on, that was the take away right ? 🤪

[@routercnc9517]

Oh, that’s a thought . . .

[@Adrian-uq9mq]

nope no way, i'm not an electrician, i'll stick to the gears. i'd have something like that if it was a plug and play kit.

[@routercnc9517]

OK, fair enough.

[@barryomahony4983]

I don't get the whole toxic masculinity thing that reading the instructions is somehow "cheating". Call me a wimp, but I take advantage of all the information and assistance that is available to me.

[@routercnc9517]

I think it is more of a running joke. Everyone reads the instructions really!