ep121- fixing silvered decals

[@geraldbaily170]

Your comments at the end about the troll haters is the most important thing I ever heard on a model site , THANK YOU

[@DeerHunter308]

I am still amazed at the levels of shameless douchery on the interweb. Don't let them get you down. I actually have no fear of that happening.

[@ScaleHangar182]

Ive been watching your videos for last two weeks, im kinda new to model making as an adult i started about 3 years ago. since then i made around 20 kits, most of them are pretty bad but hey.. we all learning all throu entire life. i came up to one of your videos because im building revell 1/48 B-25 mitchell and felt like i really needed to see other model makers going through that kit. and.. well, first i wanna say that i started my youtube channel quite recenly, main focus to dont talk a lot, quick videos, to show kinda what i learned so far because i never liked wathcing few hours model making videos i felt like its just not enough time in my life to do that. but.. your mitchell build was so interesting that i spend around 7 hours in one go. and Last bit of that series was unbelievable.. so much emotions, and interesting stories.. haters are everywhere, there always be one or two who will talk shit.. i like people making good coments on my stuff of course, but dont care if someone says some shit because at the end of the day, im doing it for myself, and if im happy with my build.. nothing else matters. I hope with that amout of views, likes, comment you gonna read this one day. thank you for being such a inspiring and good person.

[@barpfoto]

thank you for the kind words, sir. much appreciated!

[@ScaleHangar182]

Cheers Will Pattison! im soon gonna finish that b-25 and post a video. if you interested in any progres, have a quick look on facebook on my youtube channel. Scale Hangar 182 kind regards, Dawid Branski

[@beuford1982]

Will, I just put the decals on my 1/35 Academy M12 155mm GMC last weekend and I noticed major slivering the next morning. I painted the surface well when doing my base coats and it’s nice and smooth, but similar to previous other experiences with Academy decals, they didn’t adhere worth a crap and had major silvering. My decals do not have Testor’s dull coat on them yet, so I’m thinking of re wetting and carefully removing the decals, trimming the film around them, and then putting down a light layer of acrylic matt clear coat or future to re-adhere the decal to the surface. Do you think it will work, or do you have another suggestion? Thanks in advance for any advice.

[@barpfoto]

in my experience, academy decals are some of the worst ever. check out the decal episode in modelmaking fundamenals.

[@cesarignjas]

I also have some models with some silvering on my shelf, I´ve been thinking in try the Philip Flory´s tip of scoring one cut with blade or using one riveting tool over the area and soak decal setting solution on it.... may work, Who knows?...

[@bpezzano1]

Trolls are everywhere. i really got a lot out of this video. Even more than decal repair. Thank you very much.

[@mickeltownsend]

Well done ! I love old model kits and most ppl just going ape shit when they find out its an older kit. one of the things you are going to get hit by is the decals. This vid has some vary useful info in it. Thanks !!

[@Kairasp1]

Hi Will, Merry Christmas in advance, to remove the silvering of decals, cut the decal with an X-acto knife, on the silvered area, then with a paint brush apply micro-sol to it, after some time you will notice silvering disappearing, it works for me

[@rochat]

You should (if not already) check out /r/modelmakers. It's very civil. Edit - corrected the subreddit.

[@SgtBones]

Well done! Interweb silliness defeated!

[@alexx86hater]

What do you use to thin MM flat clear?

[@SprueSurgeon]

Will, im currently building AMT's USS Enterprise, anyway long story short i have severe silvering, all my fault, i got micro set/sol the wrong way round, i know, what a donut, well i'm using your method to cut great big swathes of decal out, ive made a video and i wish to link it to yours, that way if it all goes wrong i can blame you! ;) Would this be ok. ATB Mark

[@GalaxyStranger01]

Yet another fantastic video! I would never have thought about this post-application salvage technique! On a non-related note. I have a question about paint quality. My goal is to use paints that are durable and will last as long as possible. Since I was a kid, I've avoided water based acrylics - since they were awful then and I'm not thrilled with them now. I still use solvent based paints - Testors enamels and cheap automotive lacquer paints, ($25 a quart). I'm getting ready to start testing out automotive urethanes as, from what I've heard, they're the best of both worlds in terms of drying, curing, durability and usage. You've used all kinds of paints here - in your opinion, is there any difference in paint quality after application and curing between all of these different paints? Your review of the Vallejo Polyurethane primer makes me cringe. But, for example, I like the Badger Stynylrez and it looks good but I wouldn't use it over a lacquer primer. But I like how it looks as a paint. Is there any difference in long-term durability of all of these paints?

[@barpfoto]

i'm with you....i want strong paint. and no fear of fingerprints. i do believe modern acrylics like tamiya - especially thinned with lacquer thinner - are plenty stout, but obviously a lacquer like mr. paint is even tougher.

[@GalaxyStranger01]

I presume acrylic Red quality and texture looks the same to you as lacquer Red after it's dried, cured and finished. So, how do we define durability? I've never had any paint just fall off the model, whatever it was made out of. I've never had chipping or wrinkling after I've finished a model or anything like that. Would you use Tamiya acrylics on something that were to go in a museum? Just for practical reasons, I like enamels and lacquers over acrylics. Is the standard - if it gets sprayed and looks good with a finish over it, you're good? I know, for example that more expensive, 2 part clear automotive finishes are better because they require less work to be perfect, (as well as other reasons, I'm sure). But I can't find the analogue for that in paint in order to ascertain quality.

[@barpfoto]

i'd do tamiya on a museum piece. i trust it, but you'll also be unlikely to find 2k urethanes in military colors, or to need that kind of gloss. for cars, though...

[@GalaxyStranger01]

A-HAH! Exhibit A: trycolors.com/ One of the things I've been trying to do is find quality paint at a price that's reasonable. That's why I've been trying out this $25 a quart single stage lacquer automotive paint. Cheap for that kind of paint. Most people wouldn't consider using it on their car. It's really for DIY people. Now even nice 2K automotive urethanes, (per volume), are cheaper than many hobby paints. I'll probably never get through a quart of paint in my lifetime, except this primer which I'll whip through pretty quickly. I mean REALLY - a half-ounce does nothing for me. I just did a project where I had to buy about 6 half ounce testors jars. As you've pointed out, most car manufacturers don't match their colors with WWII Imperial Japanese Army Air Force paint schemes. So, I know it's scientifically possible to convert Hexadecimal color values into real-world paint colors, I just have no idea if it's been implemented in that way. But if you look at TryColors.com, you see that the default colors displayed can indeed be found from many paint manufacturers. All of the usual suspects plus cyan and magenta. If you want to reproduce a Tamiya color, go to their site and download the paint chart of the desired color and sample it. Now you've got the hexadecimal HTML color value. Go back to TryColors and scroll down to enter the hex value and click "Get Formula". The page refreshes to display the final color and the colors required to reproduce it - as well as the percentage of each color. Bam. This ain't the most scientific method for color reproduction, but it should give you a decent approximation of what you're going for at which point you can tweak the proportions. Might be a good way of getting Tamiya colors if you only use Testors enamels, etc. I haven't approached an automotive paint supply store about this, but I'm hopeful that I can just whip out a hex color code and they can give me a good approximation. The problem colors really being magenta and cyan. I know - it's really overkill for most people, but if you can find a source of cheap paint you won't be beholding to Tamiya or any other colors. You're absolutely right about the finish - I'd reserve the high-gloss for anything that needed it. I have several muscle car kits collecting dust that will require it. I think matte or flat finishes are easy to come by, though I did find a cheap automotive matte I want to try out. Again - it's cheaper by the quart than Testors and I've heard good things about it. Odd thing about this cheap lacquer primer - it's this light, creamy gray. It's perfect for early F-14s and Star Trek models.

[@brobots240]

Thanks for the vids, Do you decant the testors dullcoat from the can to be used in your airbrush, or do you use it straight from the can?

[@barpfoto]

both. for quickies i blast from the can, but for a full job i use bottled dullcote 50/50 with mr. leveling thinner.

[@brobots240]

will pattison I'm kinda new to modeling and need some advice. I'm building a B24, I want to paint it to look like the bare aluminum. I have tamiya paints but there is just too much metalic flake in their metal paints to make it look realistic. Is there a paint you'd recommend for me to use from your experience? I was thinking maybe even those metal powders you can polish? I Appreciate your help and videos, they always help inspire me and keep my modeling mojo up!

[@barpfoto]

this is always the limitation of painting to look like metal. you can get closer, though, with mr. paint lacquers. their metallics are excellent. www.hobbyworld-usa.com

[@gregwatters2183]

dunno if you read comments on older videos but I'm playing catch up. if you do will then perhaps you will be pleased to hear that I took a lot from this video as I'm building a very complex build at the moment nearly 900 bits and I'm making extras from baked clay etc and I'm up and down about it one day to the next lol and vids like this showing the human side of people and model building help me a lot. take care dude and ignore the twats:) ps really enjoying all your videos thanks.

[@barpfoto]

thank you for the kind words! and hang in there. it's a journey.

[@sharpiesfishandphantoms]

dammit, why have i never thought of that, thanks Will, another one of my bugbears closer to being sorted. experienced a similar thing with the 2hr build i did recently even though i did more in that space of time than that guy had probably done i a year. don't let the bastards grind ya down.

[@modelcitizen6759]

I loved the breastfeeding analogy (Lmao) followed as ever by your positive spin on what would to most be culdesac of negativity! So glad I subscribe WP. Life-lessons and styrene, a heady mix. Dave.

[@aaronraymond4943]

What FB groups do you belong too?

[@robo6548]

I'm totally shocked with this vid. I had no idea there was so much hate and defensiveness around modelling. My god, why not just love the hobby guys 😳

[@hog-boy-8843]

But Airfix HAVE been around for a long time.

[@InternationalBritishModeler]

Airfix Rocks!!....Rocks my patience with some of their basic failing points :P Hi-Ho Silver, awaaaaayyyyy!!!

[@kirknewton100]

Just ignore the "idiots"... Its really not work a response. Personally, I build models too... and am crap... 😂. But I have a lot of fun. Enjoy and carry on. 👍😉

[@Jaze2022]

I bet "Peter Jones" has a stake in airfix. Lots of businesses use fake accounts to act like an uninterested third party who disagrees with your criticism.

[@miguelvillega]

Thank you good info

[@danl.909]

320? Ouch!

[@scottfirman]

We can be our own worse critics when it comes to model building. No one I show my models to are experts,so they look at what I do and are amazed. I on the other hand could pick out a dozen goofs. No one cares as much as we do when it comes to what we do. When it comes to decales,they can make or break a finish depending on what you do. As you stated,those that criticize are the ones that just cant let it go. Eventually they go somewhere else to bother others. Every You-Tube channel has some idiot that pops up just to try and destroy your efforts. As far as I am concerned,they have no life. Ignore them if you can. Forget them and move on. Constructive criticism is ok,if that is what it is. Otherwize just move on.

[@SprueSurgeon]

well done Will, "breast fed until teenager" ha!

[@vinny9708]

Useful stuff thank you

[@rafgar80]

Airfix, never heard of them.....

[@Kabul81]

Airfix has come out with good subjects but they need to get away from the die cast trench panel lines! Jman👀

[@quinnking8405]

Dam people have opinions who would of thought

[@modelstime1358]

Great plane

[@hgbarnes1584]

Sound advice!

[@randypurtteman1183]

Frankly, I doubt seriously if Peter Jones has you bona fides.So it's somewhat like a cat threatening a tiger, in reality it's just stupid. However, he was, to put it mildly, being a jerk about it. But to take on the master, dig in old files to find that one mistake that we all make and then try to make you the fool with it only go to, in my opinion, reinforce what I mentioned about him earlier. There is nothing at all wrong with preferring Airfix over another brand. I mean there are in all probability people out there who swoon over Lindberg kits, only don't ask me to tell you why. I myself just purchased a B-17 in 1/72 for 25.00 from a fellow who assured me it was complete. The man obviously needs glasses as there are many really essential pieces missing. It's A Revel with a mold date of 1980, brother, it's disastrous. You would need to throw a hundred dollars of P.E. at it to come anywhere near the word "detailed" and this being my first endeavor in 40 years, I'm going practice techniques on it end build it with a big firecracker about where the bomb bay is; then BANG BANG! Have a great day.

[@h.cedric8157]

i had been in a heated argument with someone who claimed that papermodelling cannot be at the same level as that of plastic models. i pointed out that it's the limit of the skill and inventiveness of the modeler, not the medium where the model is built. and goes on ad hominem

[@h.cedric8157]

and i pointed him to one guy who made a wonderful Space Shutte Stack out of paper.

[@peterjones8334]

Thanks for the mention, it’s a shame that you took what was constructive criticism, the very kind you actively encourage others to do, and take it this badly.

[@barpfoto]

oh go fuck yourself. we both know that was never your intent.