ep225 - testing some decal setters

in which we stick a whole bunch of decals on some mules in the name of very unscientific rigor and better decals.

[@messer1096]

Thanks for this! Glad someone has the desire to do this. Informative.

[@schweinhund227]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on those ... I love the strong version.... Keep up the good work.

[@Duececoupe]

Always nice to see a friendly face! Great to see you again kid! 🤜🏻🤛🏻👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻

[@johnny2times990]

thanks WILL!~~~ this video really explained about these products to me...very well done. keep the nerd stuff coming.

[@budavargas]

I just stumbled upon your channel. Great and detailed source of information. Keep it up! Regards!

[@holeefuk7142]

Great video man! Very helpful!!

[@robertrinkenberger7574]

I'm very new to this hobby. I was terrified to use decals on my first few aircraft. I lucked in to buying the Tamiya and finally gave it a go. I'm glad you made this video. It explains many questions I had. It also is preventing future headaches. Thank you very much. I'm a new subscriber

[@angelarch5352]

years late, but thank you so much for the video! This is the best decal set video I have seen, and explained a lot of what I wanted to learn.

[@Aliktren]

Ive had issues with aquagloss and always thought i must be doing something wrong! Great video, deffo up for fewer gloss coats in the immediate future to see.

[@ArmourEmpire]

Perplexed why so many people thumbed down this vid. It is concise and clear and covered all bases . Thanks for taking the time to do these tests and sharing them. Very helpful

[@garypic4083]

1 hour long probably

[@robholton8153]

Thanks once again Will. Went ahead and bought some mark fit strong. great recommendation, perfect even over Vallejo satin acrylic varnish 70522.

[@TippedMicrobe]

This vid really helped me deliberate on which decal setter I should get. Thanks :)

[@NoskcajLlahsram]

This is exactly what I needed after 2 hours or searching. Thank you

[@wwkdiecastmore5647]

Nice video on decal solutions, thanks for sharing!...Bill

[@cesarignjas]

Interesting results thanks a lot for taking the time to do some science for us, looks like Future protected more the paint underneath and the Aquagloss allows something to cross the coat straigh to the underneath paint, and seems that you can never tell what the reactions can be, commun sense have clearly failed right there... so Control Spoons is a must, test apart what you intend to use to spot the problems away from your model. I still prefer use mild setters like Microsol and the one I use the most: Revell Decal Soft that seems is harmless to any paint, it is not that strong but with the help of a hair dryer any decal goes to place like it should. But I already have the new UMP extra strong stuff to see how it works.

[@JordanAkin-dx3su]

Awesome I love you stuff always learn

[@CompetitionChris]

I was starting to wonder if you were done making videos or something. Lol. Perfect video for what I'm doing today. As always Will, great video and keep it up.

[@jordanakin8953]

I love these vids helps me so much

[@robbroy]

I loooooove when I see you post a video that's an hour long 👌🏼 never apologise for cool in-depth nerdy content

[@billray7703]

Hi Will its bill remember about 2 years ago i sent you some clear coat to test under decals well this video is what i was talking about cheers mate

[@simoncribbes9141]

Thanks for this Will. I've been wanting to try the mythical properties of Solverset, but like you say it hard to get here in Oz. That Markfit Strong is better is good news to me. I've had some issues with Micro Sol not doing diddly with Bandai decals.

[@lukasgarage956]

Tamiya.....always the best quality products

[@bobfisher3331]

That stomper look really good!

[@leebarlow3911]

Very informative many thanks

[@cl_556]

Sorry that I enlightened you to the origins of that decal Will! Lol regardless, always a very informative and appreciated video as expected. Thanks again

[@SharneAndrews]

That robot walker is tops man. Respect

[@maximilian3004]

fantastic video, thank you for acting as a research scientist for the rest of us. as someone coming back to the hobby after a decades-long break, i had been fretting over using clear coats prior to decaling, but this vid has totally disabused me of that. additionally, i had already purchased a bottle of the tamiya mark fit strong as i've had good experiences with their paints and cement, but the wording on the bottle indicates it can dissolve certain thinner decal sets. side note: i've been using future on my floors for about a decade and i could immediately tell which wing had been sprayed with the stuff. future is great for what it is, but will turn a milky white if left wet with water for longer than a few minutes. curing time doesn't affect this, from what i can tell.surprising to me was that it seemed less reactive in general than the purpose-specific alcad sealant.

[@seanerk5kt9]

I recently figured out that Ma.K uses a lot of WW2 German insignias...colors are sometimes slightly different but handy if you’re building luftwaffe. Awesome video Will

[@allano937]

This was interesting. Im a big fan of Tamiya paint and glue. Ive never been happy with decal sets Ive used so far. maybe I should stay with tamiya and try thier set. Thanks for this sir

[@2kidsnosleep]

Good comparison video, one of your best in fact; was easy to follow what you were doing. I use the X20A as well if the micro sol isn't working. Just have to be super careful with how much is applied so you keep it off the paint. Hmm, shout out to Future that performed pretty well. I think you need to re-define "bullet proof". Lots of ways to skin the cat in decals and modelling in general, also depends on what you tend to build.

[@Georgeolddrones]

Excellent video will thanks 🙏🇬🇧🇺🇸👍George in Uk

[@AFV85]

These are great couple of videos on decals! No need to panic or use all that micro sol on it's own is just perfect! Cold water for decal brush on micro sol on surface first then apply decal and another layer over top, and leave for 24hrs it'll eat into the decal into pannal lines adheres around rivets and gives the painted on look without using the blue first! None in my club apps anymore than micro sol on it's own its just right! If.it.does start to look as if eating the detail sometimes just leave well alone It will be just fine if you don't touch the damb thing haha! This is over a matt finish ofcourse! As i myself never apply decals on glossy surfaces! They just don't come out as nice or the painted look as you get on the matt finish then use your varnish over the top of it!

[@NazidKimmie]

Very helpful, I think the word you were looking for was better ‘adhesion’?

[@bearded-clam]

Thank you for this video!

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

The set/sol/whatever solution is supposed to take care of any surface issues that the pre-gloss coat would smooth out anyway. However, I thought it was as much if not more to help prevent the silvering around the edge by making the whole surface get that same effect and letting it blend in.

[@kellyknott4201]

For an instant I thought you were going to say “ I’m not going to make you sit through watching me put the decals on, but I am going to make you sit through watching them dry!”😳

[@BenjWarrant]

"testing some decal setters" First five minutes: "don't bother you should use paint".

[@scifimodelshop]

On the mark fit pro did you apply the solution directly onto the paint as instructed by the bottle or did you do it after the detail was on the model?

[@m0rce1]

He he, here is me trying to find a solution to deal with these academy decals...

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

Is aquagloss a modellers specific product, or do you pick it up at the local hw store?

[@Flingwing24]

Thanks chap. Back into modelling after 25. Always used micro set/sol. Just ordered some markfit strong. The whole clear coat or not issue? Who knows? Believe it or not the decals we applied to our full size helicopters had a carrier film and it showed gloss over Matt. Some like to polish the Matt to avoid silvering. I think the realtime test route is sensible. Nice one.

[@RaduB.]

Hello! That was interesting and informative. So AK RC are fragile and don't go well with Aqua Gloss when using most of decal solutions or other clear coats on top. X-20A was a surprise. Thanks!

[@eddiegremlin]

Interesting experiment with different solutions, some quite surprising results. Oh and FYI, I don’t know if you’ve changed the camera mount, but I had no problem watching your video this time. Thank you.

[@markbarton1224]

I have been back in the hobby 12yrs. And always use solvaset over future. Never encountered problems I saw in this video. Like body shop guys in the laquerpaint days I have started to color sand the model between paint and clear coats with 2000 and 4000 grit. As with the cars this produces a very smooth finish that eliminates silvering and looks more realistic. I also tamp decals down with a q tip when they are where I want them then apply solvaset, even with cartograph decals.

[@LukAtMeGirls]

Really interesting video, thanks for do that. I just start doing modeling again after many years and If I can ask what you think with the idea of apply decals on a glossy coat like mr hobby spray can, apply decals and doing panel line (panel line should slide better into the line on a glossy finish) and then apply another coat of clear matte or half glossy finish? Sorry for my poor English and thank for future reply.

[@waynee5603]

I use solvaset, but it works FAST. Like Will said, get good at having it positioned and do not fiddle with the decal if it starts wrinkling on you.

[@David-ty1xz]

Thanks for video. I will say though, after 40 years of using Solvaset, and Testors clears (pick any one of them , including Acryl) there has never been any issues like what I'm seeing on your test pieces, all applied to Aero Master and Model Master paint. I'm shocked at the amount of issues here. It also may have plenty to do with the Tamiya decal sheet though. Maybe try this with a quality set of Micro-Scale decals?

[@Gundumb_guy]

Dude the weathering on that ma k model is nuts! Looks close to Lincoln wright for crying out loud!

[@kramer26]

I have been meaning to watch this video for ages and now that I'm working on a 1/24 Tamiya Porsche 956 in the Rothmans livery, using some aftermarket decals from eBay, and having mixed results with my Tamiya Mark Fit and Tamiya Decal Adhesive, Softener Type (which you don't show in this video), I thought I should watch it to hopefully get a few tips... I find that the Decal Adhesive is quite viscous and more of a gel, and as far as I know is used more for when the adhesive on the actual decal has degraded, i.e., left in the water too long or just very old, as found in a lot of vintage model kits, however it is good at softening and helping the decal to contour, but when applying multiple coats over the top once the decal is in place does leave a fairly thick residue, almost like a clear coat, but I don't think this is detrimental in any way. The Mark Fit, however, I find has a very high surface tension and beads up on top of the decal, creating a concentrated bead of solution on the decal which then attacks it, to the point of damaging the finish when attempting to squeegee it out!! I tend to struggle when a decal straddles a panel line, which I usually score quite deeply to give a decent panel line effect, and I have found that the Tamiya Decal Adhesive is the best for softening the decal but still requires a lot of manipulation and working to get it to settle properly. I usually always apply decals straight over acrylic paints or directly to the plastic, and then clear coat over the top with a general purpose 1k automotive acrylic lacquer, with no issues. I'm always careful to keep any decal solution on the decal and wipe up any overspill from the paint surface outside of the decal boundary with a q-tip.

[@modelman8139]

Why so many thumbs down on this vid? It was very informative and covered most everything. Great vid will ! Keep it up brother.!!

[@Americawest03]

I didn't give it a thumbs down but I can tell you what I don't like about it. The video comes across as very unprepared and impromptu. It is informative eventually. But Will spends too much time just talking. I takes way too long to get to the point. He would probably have more "likes" and more views if he put some effort into having everything prepared and scripted before he started filming. There's too much "thinking out loud" for me. I don't have time to sit through a vid for over an hour especially when there's really only about 10 mins worth of practical info. Don't get me wrong...I'm glad that guys like Will want to share their knowledge and take the time to make vids. And this vid was informative. Its just too long with too much pointless chit chat.

[@christopherstockton8351]

As usual I enjoyed your video, I was wondering about the ultimate products decal solutions, and the Agama hypersol solution, I have heard of other eastern european solutions, but you cant test them all, keep up the great videos, I love em:)

[@donwest5387]

Tamiya used to suggest using a "steamed towel" to help decals conform. It does.

[@kylehood1657]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that "Hasegawa" decal sheet... is that not the sheet from the Eduard Ultimate Sabre kit you built a while back?

[@andweebh6894]

On parts without paint, which one would be best?

[@donwest5387]

I often use a hairdryer to help the process.

[@dexterscott7824]

I love the stompy robot in the beginning! Is that a kit or something you kitbashed?

[@infozencentre]

Some editing would help you videos a lot

[@barpfoto]

you're entitled to your opinion on that of course, but it's not happening.

[@icervoid]

I did this on a spoon with MARKFIT STRONG. All is wonderful. But how you do it on a scale model from Tamyia because decals adhere very fast when they are used with MARKFIT STRONG ? TY and CONGRATS FOR YOUR WORK.

[@AFV85]

Yej you notice that alot the x 20 thinner! Iv not used thinner for this before but I thought it might be the decal sheet to start with but you do see the backing like it were a transfer with the ghosting on the tamyia decal test!

[@Peter-Oxley-Modelling-Lab]

Great vid Will, most interesting...I didn't do such a wide ranging test as you, but have found similar results over last 6-12 months, except I haven't yet tried Tamiya Markfit Strong, so on the basis of your findings, have ordered some. Thanks and keeps the informative vids coming. 👍🏻

[@caramida2118]

To make things more confusing, Tamiya also has Decal Adhesive and Adhesive Softener.

[@homunculous007]

Looks like Mark Fit Super Strong is the best decal solvent. Too bad its not in the US yet. Thanks for the vid.

[@AugustusCaesar88]

Hi will, I’d say half the dislikes for this video come from your criminally hilarious pronunciation of “jaggy-gash-invader 54” for “Jagdgeschwader 54”... i personally found it a side splitting piece of satire lol... Great video btw keep them coming

[@kyllerkill]

Using any setting solution for decals you are not supposed to let it set. You put it down for less then one min. It will soften the decal and conform it. Then you use a q-tip and soak it all up. Never let it go longer then a min or you will ruin everything.

[@barpfoto]

no. this is exactly the opposite of standard procedure.

[@AFV85]

That's what I kinda call sillvering when you get the lighter shine around the decals like on your thinner dest you say is like a Hallo! You can really make out the backing decal oapernit was printed on! That's what I like with micro sol on a matt finish before varnish theres just non of that! The edges seem to just melt.n blend right in if you put a layer on the surface first then over top wait to dry any apply another but can apply the other within the hour and leave for.24hrs that's always been my way and never had a flaw with it yet touch wood haha! I'm away to apply some to my m3 lee probably jinxed myself now lol

[@barpfoto]

but....that's just not what silvering is.

[@AFV85]

@@barpfoto well what is it then

[@AFV85]

@@barpfoto because I thought it was tiny air bubbles under the clear film causing it to give a shine on the painted surface

[@barpfoto]

@@AFV85 it is but i thought you were saying it was the clear film around a decal's edge. i probably misunderstood.

[@AFV85]

@@barpfoto yeah, that's the only problem I have if I use a varnish on my models before applying the decals so I use the micro sol directly on the painted surface and lay the decal down then use a varnish over the whole tank I'm doing the panzer 4 Brukenleger just now and just finished a panzer 4 Ausf C, next build is the panzer 4 with the L70 and the square case mate superstructure the hobby boss panzer 4 Sd of 162/1 then there wee full interior and engine detail panzer 1 38T with the twin MGs in 1.35 hobby boss have a new line of panzers out there a mixer of the older nice tristar kits

[@scottmeyer636]

is there a post decal application product?

[@lukehawkins7591]

As a matter of interest wrt Tamiya Markfit Strong, how did you apply it...did you follow the instructions or did you apply the solution after the decal was laid down?

[@barpfoto]

for this type of solvent, after the decal is applied. always.

[@lukehawkins7591]

@@barpfoto thanks Will😁

[@MF-kv8cn]

would be nice if you showed how you applied all the products

[@fluxxNZ]

Great video. i agree the best solution, is TEST. Personally I love the AK stuff, but it only gets used on stubborn or thick decals, best applied, hit w hairdryer (seems to minimize damage to surrounding paint) and walk away overnight, as it is very aggressive. Tamiya Markfit Strong is also good but find it softens paint and can leave nasty 'tide marks' (i use AK Model Air, AK Real Color, Minitaire mainly.) I also have the AK decal solution to test but wanna use up some of the solutions I have as i'm trying to stop being a 'tool magpie' and buy all the new shiny products. As an added not, a member of my local club swears (about most things to be fair) that he gets his best results applying decals onto wet 'future' and letting it pull the decal down. I have seen his work, some brilliant, some barely pass the 3 foot test. My concern is that its a thicker product and would leave the decal sitting up more than other solutions, but as you said, as long as you 'future' over the top I guess you maybe able to make it work.

[@Garryokee100]

Ok so I dont need to gloss first to apply decals, but dont I need it as a base for weathering?

[@barpfoto]

no. the exception is when you want really tight washes.

[@9GSR]

What kind of model is that at 4:28 please

[@JensAndree]

Mark Fit Strong FTW! ;)

[@andweebh6894]

Mark softer is so that it melts to the plastic while mark setter helps it stick better

[@jerryzhang3686]

hello, do mr mark setter and mr mark softer dissolve Vallejo paint and Vallejo gloss varnish? im looking to buy them but im concerned about the reaction.

[@barpfoto]

lots of things dissolve them. i'd stick to something like aquagloss or x-22.

[@jerryzhang3686]

@@barpfoto ok thanks !

[@BenjWarrant]

With decals like that shield-shaped one, why would you not use a scalpel to trim the edges when you cut the decal off its sheet? That way you don't get the awkward little edges just outside the printed shape? Is there a downside to doing that? Not perhaps practical for all decals, but where it is I would want to do that on my (first time in 40 years) current project.

[@barpfoto]

no downside other than - as you said - not being a good option for all decals. however, it still doesn't get rid of the film height issue.

[@jacobshobbies6429]

So if I apply decals let them dry then spray with Testers Dullcote let dry then spray with Tamiya TS 80 Flat Clear I should have no problems correct? I have heard that if tamiya ts 80 is the first thing that touches the decals it can ruin them. Thank you

[@barpfoto]

not a bad plan. ts80 is pretty hot, but why do you need both?

[@jacobshobbies6429]

I don't really know but that's just what I've seen people do and it's turned out pretty well

[@barpfoto]

@@jacobshobbies6429 dullcote by itself should be all you need.

[@jacobshobbies6429]

will pattison I will try that Thanks for taking the time to respond

[@manfredstrappen7491]

The Tamiya Mark Fit melted my paints too. Never using it again.

[@UtzChips2009]

The problem with Walthers Solvaset: hazardous material & they charge almost $12 for shipping by ground

[@randyjones4975]

So what was missing? The weather conditions at Rube Goldberg Enterprises! But wonderful nonetheless!

[@wrinkledm]

GSI Creos is the umbrella??? company for the Mr. Hobby products. Their website has descriptions for Mr. Setter / Mr. Softer Basically they are the same functions as Micro-Set & Micro-Sol.

[@barpfoto]

no. they really are not. mr. mark softer is analogous to microsol, but mr. mark setter is nothing like microset.

[@erickcandanedo3210]

Ok.. Now my wife is pist at me since I have watch now two of the one hour videos in a row jajaja. Trying to explain this to her is a waste of time. Both videos are Great with very good informatin.

[@egyeneskifli7808]

Almost all paints are hybrids. The exceptions are the latex based craps (Vallejo Modell Color and their ripoffs, like AK, Meng, Mig, AMMO, Hataka). These paints are not soluable by lacquer thinners. But you can reduce any other paint with a lacquer thinner, even the enamles. I tried a some paints in this manner. Humbrol, Model Master and Tamiya enamel, Tamiya, Gunze, Revell, AK Real Color acrylics. All of them thinnable with strait lacquer thinner, and lacqer thinner cutted down 1:5 with IPA. Model Master is not really available anymore in Europe (or at least in Hungary, which is a white hole). I use some really old pieces of them, just like Humbrol Enamel. (Twenty something years old.) They behave a bit differently with other then their own thinners. You can use this to your advantage, or your needs. For enamels, even the different manufacturers white spirits give you different results. The cheaper mineral spirits are very, very contaminated, mostly with esters, which are the base of the lacquer thinners and paints. From this point is straight forward that the enamels thinnable with lacquers. Honestly I don't know if enamles and lacquers are intermixable, but the only reason of this is simple: I haven't tried yet. I don't have Humbrol acrylics, but I tried it earlier, with quite unsatisfying results even with its own thinner. That time I haven't used lacquer thinner. I can borrow from one of my friends, but those paints are outright useless in my opinion. To the topic: I tipically use only two thing for setting decals: thinned vinegar and denatured alcohol. They work quite well for me so far. Of course, because of the alcohol a protective coat is literally must have over the paint. Only the very old, and very thick Monogram decals caused me problems. But those decals were a half millimeter thick. Fujimi and Hasegawa decals were almost as thick. I don't know their current status in this aspect, I haven't bought any of their kits for almost twenty years. There were always better. (Except the 1/72 A-7 Corsair II family. For a long time only those two companies made those in useable quality. But the Fujimi was far-far superior. So you have the choice for the kit, but you got the same crap japanese decals.)

[@TheBodi91]

Check out the Gunze GX100 gloss super clear III, the best clear coat on earth ever.

[@barpfoto]

i discussed it. it's fine for some things.

[@TheBodi91]

@@barpfoto It depends on how and what technique the modeler use, but nothing would damage it like future/pledge and alclad clear coat as seen in the video.

[@rckullberg]

Used Aqua Gloss on the past couple of builds. Decal solutions ate it up down to the primer. Ruined the builds. Tossed it and the other Alclad varnishes I bought which were also problematic. Going back to future and Vallejo varnishes.

[@barpfoto]

the other alclad varnishes are enamels, and yes...junk. but your alternatives for acrylics are also problematic. have you tried x22?

[@rckullberg]

A long time ago. I need to do so again after watching your video. I also plan to give no gloss coat a try again after watching your videos. Other alternative varnishes? Problematic is the word, but that said they have proven to be less problematic for me that dull coat. Go figure. Recently bought some MRP to try for top coats given how good their paints are. @@barpfoto

[@barpfoto]

@@rckullberg the mrp clears are ok but quite hot even for lacquers so just be aware. there's also gx100.

[@rckullberg]

Truth that. I have tried the semi matt already. The MRPs are hot in general and reward a light touch. @@barpfoto

[@dogshouse1235]

Nothing wrong with hairy ass noses. I braided mine and put beads on them. I be stylin' now ;)

[@GalaxyStranger01]

I bet if you let the Acrylic clear cure for a week or two, and you were careful, you could spray that Lacquer clear on top without issue, I don't know. I'm starting to believe that if you stuck with a Lacquer paint system and just used Lacquer Thinner to blend the decal, that might be the best situation in terms of hiding decal finish.

[@barpfoto]

nah. i REALLY flooded it. lol

[@GalaxyStranger01]

@@barpfoto Wooooooow I've taken to using Duplicolor's "Paint Shop" line of clears. Way cheaper than hobby stuff. Basically a lifetime supply of 32oz for $25. I've shot it directly on top of Stynylrez without issue. Their Satin seems to be appropriate for military applications.

[@MrGlenn253]

Do you not use decals? I don't think anyone got that 😂

[@pablogonzalezhermosilla4210]

Is there a reason why you would clear coat something before applying the water decals?

[@barpfoto]

generally no but i recommend watching my video on how i apply decals.

[@DansModelBench]

There are some reasons Will, why you restart a video that we don't need to know.

[@chrishuffman6734]

Aqua gloss is apparently not bulletproof

[@Juzgames]

U and ur boogars ....lolz

[@BenjWarrant]

*stickiness

[@bobbrossify]

I don’t think you applied these right lol. Mr Mark Soft/Set is what we all use in Gunpla w/ zero probs.

[@barpfoto]

cool story. you can think it all day but that won't change anything. not all decals are created equal.

[@modeltankguy]

very good video I still find mark fit not the best in my case as I use all kinds of brands on a kit but I did to have to stop using the salvent crap lol I use just 4 kinds for each other brands of decals now which seams to work for me keep them coming

[@squidlips6661]

u forgot UMP

[@barpfoto]

nope. i just didn't have it.

[@garypic4083]

Good info but you could your videos in less than 30 minutes

[@barpfoto]

Cool story, but nobody gives a fuck. If the length of my videos challenges your attention span too much and you can't learn to use the pause button, then go find a different free channel.

[@SyedAli-bv4jr]

Lots of talking, lots and lots of talking. Could have been wound up in ten to fifteen minutes most. Useful but cannot just continue.

[@barpfoto]

then watch another channel.

[@M3au]

Such a long “comparison” video could do with some chapter markings.

[@garypic4083]

​@@barpfoto I will a******

[@scottroberts3881]

This guy is just way toooooo long winded!

[@barpfoto]

or you just don't have an adult attention span.

[@the_arcanum]

That's what KZbin Speed settings are for ! I love all the contents Will is posting but to keep up, even on a Corona-induced binge watching, I set him at x1.25 ;)

[@kenjohnston8173]

U just can't get to a point without talking forever

[@barpfoto]

then go watch a different channel that supports your childlike attention span.