Extreme Router Techniques

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⚙️ SHOW NOTES - EPISODE #166 : Sometimes you’re faced with shaping challenges that are possible to solve with “out of the box” modifications of your router to get the job done. You might say you need to adopt “extreme methods” to make it happen. in this episode I show you my process for making jigs to get much more out of your router. With some practical tips, and imagination, we discover our router can perform like a CNC machine!
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LIVE EVENTS are filmed in the shop of Tom McLaughlin, host of TV's Classic Woodworking and Shop Night Live. Tom loves to pass on the craft of woodworking by creating projects to present in live video form backed by his over 30-years of experience making fine custom furniture.
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[@richardhaas1989]

After using orange oil to get the iron-on edge band glue off my plexiglas router base for the millionth time I just applied Rain-X to the base. I have been using it on face shields and glasses to keep dust from sticking, for a while. Hopefully this will slow up the glue accumulation like the dust...the base is gliding effortlessly so far. I am trimming 1/2" ply drawer sides and front/back pieces so I'm not concerned if this will affect stain but it might.

[@EpicWoodworking]

Yes Richard, I know the gummy mess that can occur with double stick tape. Sounds like Rainx is a good solution, I hadn’t thought of that. The only caution I can see is the silicones contained in Rainx, the main slippery ingredient is Polydimethylsiloxane, the simplest form of silicone. I’ve had some very frustrating experiences in the finishing room with “fish-eye” defects in the past caused by previous applications of silicone based furniture polishes like Pledge (although not sure if they still use silicone). Once the finishing room gets contaminated with silicone you have to add silicone to every finish (fisheye remover), which is not a great remedy. But if you haven’t noticed any contamination problems, it may not be an issue for you. Thanks for letting me know, and thanks for watching! 👍😎

[@jerrystark3587]

Another terrific video with guidance on how to use the router. Using routing jigs to form concave and convex surfaces really expands the router's capacity -- and the woodworker's capacity, too. Many thanks to you both. 👍👍

[@ronmcbride986]

Very interesting and inspiring. Thanks Tom and Kris

[@thomasbrubaker4627]

Excellent! An abbreviated version of this video would be great to demonstrate the practical use of geometry in a geometry class.

[@rick91443]

Applauding from afar. WAY over my skill levels(making50 bee hives for friend,) but always nice to watch before today's pushing ceder through my planer all morning....cheers...rr

[@vincechoraszewski2394]

Great job Tom, why aren't you doing anything on PBS anymore?

[@williamsutton5693]

For the concave block, would a core box bit be a better choice than a straight bit?

[@tommckenney7627]

What an excellent episode; sure wish I had watched this live. Many years ago I built an ES-335 style from scratch, so this is very interesting. I used the radiused sanding block to achieve the 12" radius on the fretboard, but never even thought about using a router. I would be interested in knowing how you cut the neck. Single piece? Wood type, grain direction, etc. I had cut & carved my guitar neck from a single piece of maple, and unfortunately over the years the neck developed a twist rendering the guitar unplayable. Disappointing, but it was an excellent learning experience nonetheless. Also, did you use a fret rule and hand cut the fret slots or did you purchase a pre-cut fretboard blank?

[@alangknowles]

Are you sure they don't want to see you do an Irish jig? Dancing with the stars.

[@rickreed123]

Are the hats gone already?

[@CameraLady]

No, not yet Rick, thanks for checking. You can see them here: www.epicwoodworking.com/merch