Episode

[@25kmgb]

This was excellent. Clear and concise with good quality video! Thank you.

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Thanks for taking care he time to watch and also for your kind comments. Hope that it comes in handy if you find yourself doing the same.

[@Vr4joe]

Thanks for another great update Steve! Ever since meeting you in person at the shop after my workout, I've been following along. Keep up the great work!

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

@@Vr4joe thank you for your kind comments. I try to offer camera angles and explanations that make people feel like they are right there with me. If memory serves me correct, you are crazy about Porsch 944 and race them in Lemons? Did you run at NHMS and how did it go?

[@stephennickles7389]

I am in shock! $2,500! Ouch! I am replacing my front's bushings with Prothane, but cleaning up components, blasting, prime and paint, vibrating polish bolts and nuts, detailing where practical. I will need new tie rod ends, but the job is going to cost me under $200 including brake pads. I also have my engine out and had to wrap a ratchet strap under my floor jack and atop the crossmember to hold the car down as I compressed the spring for disassembly. Steve, I wish I had the funds to do it the way you're doing it, it looks spectacular, but I've got an engine to have bored, and rear brakes, and a new top, and probably every electrical component replaced. A local MG guy said "if you give me $10,000, ill build you a nice $5,000 car". I have to draw the line somewhere! Thanks for informative video Steve

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

@@stephennickles7389 hello Stephen …..thanks for taking the time to watch AND comment. This is my first restoration and I am learning a lot in the process especially when it comes to the cost. One of the reasons that I do the cost update is to show people where the money is being spent so that they can decide if they want to reuse or replace parts during their own restoration. I do have some reservations about the spend on this project especially given the cost estimates for the body and paint work (see episode 11). Also given that a lot of the new parts are made in China, will I really be driving an English sports car when all is said and done😁. In my experience, the best way to drive a restored MG is to buy someone else’s restoration which I have done (see episode 12). With that said, I am very fortunate to be able to afford the restoration. I have such a long history with the car (see episode 1)that pushes me in that direction. Perhaps I can learn from you…..what equipment and paint make and models do you use to restore your parts?

[@neilrogers8931]

Another interesting episode. Looking forward to the next one.

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Thanks for the positive feedback Neil. It really motivates me to continue producing them.

[@raulthepig5821]

Your front suspension looks good Steve. In fact it looks like brand new. Good job. On a side note I once installed new poly bushings on my '72 240Z. They squeaked so bad I had to replace them with OEM bushings. On some recent KZbin videos they show using Teflon tape wrapped around the bushing and sleeves instead of or with the lube. I have not tried this yet. I hope the lube works for you.

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Thanks for the comment and letting me know. I have heard that as well and did see the teflon video. Had I known this prior to purchasing the bushings, I would have probably not purchased them. I guess we will find out when the car gets back on the road. Know that I understand the front suspension and steering, it is well within my wheelhouse to replace them should I need to.

[@matthewsilva8225]

What manual are you using to get all of the torque specs? Great channel. Keep up the great work!

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Matthew thank you for your very kind comments. I refer to the Bentley Shop manual quite a bit, but four the torque specs on the MGExp forum. There should be a link to it at the end of the video (apologies that it is not a hyperlink and just text).

[@RedDawg2k]

Cross member coating is critical to making this look awesome.

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Thanks RedDawg........it was kind of on the expensive side to refinish the cross member, but I agree......it looks fabulous!

[@RedDawg2k]

@@MaggiesMakeover72 I fall into the category of partially started on front end tear down and eventual rebuilding on a ‘77 MGB and I can’t begin to let you know how helpful this has been. The cost breakdown is really helpful is seeing how to avoid some of the more costly line items. I am going to go for a full dip of the cross member and build out from there. Thank you very much for your MGB productions!!!

[@RobinHicks-w8u]

There is no chamber adjustment on the standard MGB suspension and it is not the best for modern radial tyres! You can get different lower wishbone arms which help, wedges between the crossmember and chassis, or, and easiest, available are offset upper bushes which allow camber adjustment by their orientation!👍

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Thanks for tuning in Robin and taking the time to comment. I did not know that. I appreciate the education.

[@dfboiler]

I'll be doing a lot of this during the winter, just to clean up and paint all the suspension parts. All new bushings were put in not long ago. Question, you keep saying anti-seize grease when dealing with putting the metal sleeves or bolts through the bushings, shouldn't you be using the silicone grease so it doesn't hurt the poly bushings? Or is the anti-seize the same?

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

Apologies on the confusion. You are absolutely correct, grease is not good for poly bushings. The metal sleeve put into the bottom of the swivel assembly sits inside another metal opening which is why I put anti seize grease on it. The poly bushings on the other hand have a silicon grease that is supplied with them that is used on the bushing when it comes in contact with metal. Sometimes when shooting a video, I make mistakes in my wording that I sometimes catch during the editing process. I cant really reshoot the scene. Perhaps I need to add some corrective language visually in the video. Thanks for the constructive feedback!

[@parolof]

No shims between rack and cross member? Guess You can get lucky and not get a binding steering.

[@MaggiesMakeover72]

@@parolof I was surprised as well to not see them there upon disassembly. As far as I know, no one had touched the rack since the car was made. It will be interesting when all is said and done if the rack needs to be shimmed.