1999 Civic Radiator Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

[@acemanz888]

Draggin' the coolant pan on the floor all the way out like a Boss

[@aquateen77723]

Haha! I thought that was great too!

[@thewholetruth2483]

Same here

[@quickguesswho]

Saw you drag the jug as you backed out of the garage.. something i would do

[@travis2711]

Great video and was able to change out the radiator and fan on a 2000 civic dx. The miracles of KZbin and someone who can make a decent video and knows what they are doing. Cheers

[@ryanburchett8455]

You did an excellent job explaining everything. By far one of the best videos of this kind.

[@JohnGreyman]

Thank you for doing this video, you saved me between $120 and $910 depending on where I would have taken the car. Only took me 45 min to do my self. Your instructions were very percise. Thank you

[@JohnGreyman]

Crap, wrong post, it was between $60 and $180. The above post was for a different video. But still, thank you.

[@nickgor98]

I love how you said "When these engines overheat" instead of "if".I cannot belive how small that radiator is! My '96 avenger 4 cylinder has a radiator twice that size with twice the number of fans

[@tommynikon2283]

4-19-2021: I was just quoted $800 for a radiator replacement, '99 Honda Civic EX/coupe. I can't remember if that was everything....but I know it wasn't OEM Honda or a dealership. I was shocked. Not a "car guy", but a driving enthusiast, watching this....I've decided that (apparently) I am capable of fixing this myself, and saving big. THX!

[@Alex-vs9hr]

Thank you @EricTheCarGuy you have helped me out. Long story short got a 99 civic used, when it hit 200k it started having issues. Your videos have helped me so much.

[@RedneckSamurai126]

Hey bud. Thanks for this video. I have a 1998 Acura 1.6 EL (only in Canada) with the D16Y8 motor. I replaced my valve cover gasket, the VTEC solenoid gasket, distributor o-ring, thermostat, and the rear drums and shoes on my car recently. Then last weekend my radiator started leaking like a faucet. Saw this video and it saved me. Got an aftermarket rad and cap for $78 Canadian and did it myself!!! Thanks again!

[@LovensPresume]

I just replaced mine with my dad. Pep Boy asked for $600+ for the repair. I bought the parts & took a little time and only paid $120.

[@jasonspratling]

Lovens Presume Excatly the people that triple A sent me to after my radiator had a crack in it they wanted to charge me $600 and then with the AAA discount it was going to be $580 It was at that moment that I have vowed to work on every thing on my car and never send it back to a mechanic 💯

[@atatkfighter]

I just paid $290 + tax to replace the radiator on my 2002 Honda Accord. $600 + is way too much and I'm glad you did the work yourself.

[@3l6uat3]

Did the same with my dad a few years back

[@proactivefiresafety954]

Thank you Eric 👍🏽. Still watching this in May 2023. Going to do this on my EM1.

[@WoZIMoo]

27:06 "WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE" -Drain pan

[@JamesSmith-Jtz]

Yo I died when I saw this!! 😂😂

[@nathanjohnson3790]

As usual Sir, Outstanding Job, Instruction and Illustrations!! Please Keep Up the Great Work!! You Are Making A Tremendous difference in the lives of so many people!! I will continue to support your channel and everyone I know and come into contact with, to make sure they do so as well!! God Bless!!

[@karenoverton201]

Glad I'm not the only one to forget to take out drain pan LOL great job not getting cold.

[@LMacNeill]

My personal feeling about hoses/clamps/thermostats/caps -- if I'm taking the time to replace the radiator, bleed the cooling system, check the tranny-fluid, etc., I'm going to spend the extra few $$ on new hoses/clamps/thermostat/cap. This goes ESPECIALLY for a thermostat! A damn $10 thermostat can ruin a $3,000 engine way too easily to chance it, in my opinion. Thanks for yet another very thorough, very enjoyable video, Eric. :-)

[@michael.w92]

lovin that classic Honda starter sound

[@kevinkohler7997]

Great video. I wasted no time in breaking rusted bolt on top clamp in attempting to patch top seem hemorrhage as stop-gap before pending radiator replacement. Cheers!

[@gscotty311]

Ditching the manufacturer's spring clamp and replacing it with a new clamp (the "screw" hose clamp) was needed in my situation. I had to change the thermostat in addition to the radiator and kept the original (rusty/semi rusty) spring clamps. Well needless to say, I had a large leak after driving it a couple days. I found it coming from the housing of the thermostat (at least it appeared that way!). I decided to try a small amount of sealant(very small...I didn't want the excess to occupy other engine parts) to fully seal the housing of the thermostat. After leaving it to cure 24 hours I proceeded to fill the car with coolant and purge the air from the system. The leak immediately returned while waiting for the fans to kick on while the engine was running!! After much frustration and consultation of others, my neighbor suggested it may be leaking from the lower radiator hose and running along the line of the thermo housing and then finally dripping at the point at which the thermostat housing is bolted together. He said to maybe start with the clamp first. I then remembered Eric mentioning he usually ditches the spring clamps..and especially the clamps on the lower radiator hose. DUH! LOL I totally forgot Eric mentioning that! So I bought the clamps and before putting them on I scraped off the sealant I used before and made it as clean as I could so that I could decipher whether the clamps were really the source of the leak or not. If it still leaked I would have slapped on some more of that sealant. wasn't necessary! Turned out to be the clamps. So I hope this experience helps someone in the future. Eric is right...ditch those rusty spring clamps with something like those screw hose clamps!

[@Shelby500eGt]

You dragging the jug around the shop kind of reminds me how I forgot to take the passenger hub cap out from behind the wheel before I decided to jump in my car and test my first ever break job. Needless to say, I now have one less hub cap.

[@paulto118]

Thanks a lot for the video. Clear steps and well presented, I can do exact same thing on my 97 civic. After I replaced the radiator, I drove about 10 blocks, the engine was overheated and blowing cold air inside (turn to hot all the way). Later learned from my friend that I have to leave the radiator cap open while warming up the car, so the radiator can suck in more antifreeze while bleeding out the air. My car is working just fine now. Thank you very much.

[@codyq0987]

Hi Eric, as always, you are the best on Car Repair Tutorial on KZbin. So far, I cannot find anyone can beat your quality of the video! If possible, I expect you can do some videos on Ford Taurus. Thank you:)

[@garrettsmawley]

Great information and very entertaining as a viewer with a similar job in the works. I appreciate the small details like positioning the hose clamps back the same way.

[@max41050]

Garrett Smawley . Actually this is easily the best video on KZbin I had no problem with the transmission lines. I just wish I had pay more attention to the bolts on the bottom of the fan the bolts of the new radiator were bigger than the original but lucky for me I didn't drive the bolt thru the radiator. next time it should be a lot easier.

[@100SteveB]

Nice video Eric, clear and informative. And great to see you using the tried and tested camera angles again. Much easier to see what your doing like this. Unlike the helmet cam you tried in a previous video. Great work.

[@cgrscott]

I'm endeavoring to replace the radiator on my 2001 Odyssey. I think this video is helpful since it gives me special precautions that are universal. I'm also following other KZbin videos that are replacing the radiator on an actual second generation odyssey.

[@Robinhood179]

Used videos like this and others to replace my radiator in my 96 Civic. Everything went perfect, UNTIL, I saw a tiny leak at the hose for the transmission fluid when starting the car. Tried to adjust it and slipped and fluid starting leaking like crazy LOL. After several minutes of slipping and sliding with my channel locks and red transmission fluid soaking my arm clear down to my shirt, I got it where I wanted it and problem solved. Wish I had used one of Eric's clamps in the first place and not the one that was already there. All in all though it was about $60 to do the job.

[@shawn1christopher]

Thanks Eric, you saved my back. Had a damned rock go through mine on the way to work one day. This video was a huge help.

[@MichaelMantion]

In a shop we used a tool to vacuum out all the air, then we the radiator would suck up the coolant and have very little trapped air. The other nice thing is you knew when it held the vacuum that you didn't have any leaks. It wasn't a cheap tool, but it used standard pneumatic lines and only took 2 minutes. so much better than filling, bleeding and filling. One time i over tighten the the transmission fluid line and stripped the threads. So be careful. Its the only time I ever stripped anything.

[@problematic_canik]

Eric, thank you so much for your video!! The camera angles and your step by step not fast forwarding made my first time fun and easy as well as confident. Although it took 8 hours lol. I did it myself. I should buy you a beer. Thanks mate.

[@tomp2776]

+christian lott TOOK YOU 8 HOURS? WHY SOO LONG?

[@problematic_canik]

+Tom p perfectionist I burped the car for a while.

[@duffman825]

Great video! Wish I had this when I replaced the radiator in my 99 civic. Would have saved me time and crawling around underneath the car. Appreciated the videos man!

[@aquateen77723]

Watching Eric repair things is like watching Leonardo DaVinci create art. I'm not worthy! *bows down*

[@simonwall23]

Great tips through out the whole video. Clamps back in the same position ias they came off is something so easily overlooked. Also replacing the bottom radiator clamp with a hoseclip pointing south was genius. Excellent video as always.

[@Danijel9616]

You forgot a plastic container under the front spoiler :) 27:07

[@ericthecarguy]

And I didn't cut that out of the video either. :)

[@Danijel9616]

EricTheCarGuy ^_^

[@GleepGlop2]

For anyone following this video which is great, one mistake I did see was that the transmission cooler lines were not fully seated onto the hardware on the radiator. Very likely that will cause a leak. Also if there is any ability to move the angle of that hardware by hand then there will be leaking from that joint as well.

[@casemech]

I love those hose pliers. I never thought I needed them when I saw them on the tool truck until I tried them on a tough to reach hose. I now use them all the time.

[@01FozzyS]

That is one nasty looking engine bay. Nice job,Eric!

[@TechTimeWithEric]

My Chevy truck is a manual, when I replaced the radiator, I ran my power steering through the transmission cooler in the radiator.

[@tubejim101]

Seems like a cool idea.

[@scottgriffin449]

maybe you can also use it as a engine oil cooler too, will keep oil temps at 180F

[@keithgardner3865]

Love your videos....just replaced the radiator in my 97 Pathfinder. Cracked in the exact same place

[@robertweeks7993]

did this on my grandmas 2000 civic. her radiator was a clogged up and the top tank on it blew off shooting coolant up her windshield lol. the only thing i did different from ETCG was take the transmission hoses off at the radiator when removing it from the vehicle.

[@balloney2175]

Cool, Professor Eric, this is close to my car in similarity... mine is year 1997. They look 99% the same.

[@GenX_US_Marine]

I bought an OE Denso Honda Radiator for my car because I was sick of the aftermarket ones breaking and cracking all the time. When I got my radiator all the little stuff was already on. Like those metal angled lines those square nuts. All I had to do was install it in my car.

[@TheUghhJunkie]

I always clean the area where the radiator sits with some brake clean, simple green or even a quick spray with a hose make it look nice and reduce comebacks from residual leakage.

[@treowayne]

Some of the little "two cents" parts that are part of a car are things that ease the manufacturing process. I am thinking in particular of the screws that hold brake rotors in place during manufacturing. The main purpose of that little plastic hose holder may be similar.

[@chenyuxie6233]

Thanks dude. Extremely nice video, guided me through all the way when chang my radiator today.

[@knunne1]

Liked how you did it from the top, great tip! Thanks.

[@mrkzj2]

This method obviously works, but admittedly isn't the neatest or cleanest way to change a radiator. It wouldn't have been much more effort to just reach under and drain the radiator to help prevent any mess later on. And no, ATF level really doesn't go down that much to make a difference, when you remove the radiator. But it should go without saying that you should STILL check the ATF level when the job is done. For a flat-rate tech, though... this is the fastest and dirtiest way.

[@FusionDeveloper]

1:59 the part your hand is over. (also at 27:35 your hand is covering it) Why is it designed to have slop? You can clearly see the gap between the rubber ring surrounding the peg and the peg itself. The peg I'm talking about, has 4 holes in the top.

[@SoulTKR]

EricTheCarGuy hi Eric, what radiator did you use for this? I'd like to order one that is proven to fit correctly on my '99 Civic Sedan EX Auto. Thank you!!!!

[@chrisjohnson7599]

Thank you for the awesome video. This helped me replace my gf's radiator after it blew in the parking lot

[@FyberOptic]

They always said plastic was the future, but it's not a great future since the plastic stuff breaks all the time, as this car exemplifies. From a plastic channel above the radiator blowing out on the interstate in a Focus, to a simple plastic clip breaking in a power door lock button preventing all the doors from being opened until you manually rested the switch in its default position in a Saturn, plastic parts just seem to cause nothing but problems. And that doesn't even count all the non-car-related examples. Though I imagine when they were so hopeful about plastic that they weren't counting on it all coming from China, full of impurities and poor-quality construction.

[@WiseWik]

weren't the ATF cooling lines on the radiator supposed to sit all the way down on those little connection pipes?

[@calgarytek]

I had a hell of a time loosening the fan shroud from the old radiator. Actually ended up breaking the screw holes. The lower hose fitting went on mine (of all things). I guess my Honda sat for a while with the previous owner. I was wondering whether using waterless coolant would be a better idea here? From research, it seems that Honda's run a tad hotter with the waterless...

[@Difkament]

What is that second plastic box ? I see that the first one is a air filter box, but what is the second one doing there ? What is it for ?

[@nestormcs3]

Looking for information on the harness to the radiator fan vs ac condenser fan? Where does the start and where it ends? And is the headlights harness attached to the radiator harness?

[@max41050]

easily best video on KZbin it worked perfect for my 2000 honda civic lx. THANKS ERIC👍👍

[@89Interceptor]

how can you reuse the spring clamps i always replace the spring clamps with the screw type simply because there are few things that i hate more than spring clamps

[@ericthecarguy]

As I said in the video, and showed in the video, I replace the one on the bottom hose because it's difficult to get to. If the upper hose clamps have an issue, they're right on top and easy to access.

[@CyFi6]

Spring clamps are superior to worm clamps. They are constant tension, so as things expand/contract they maintain the same tension, whereas worm gear clamps dig into the hose over time and cause leaks. I always use spring clamps where possible.

[@Saint1533]

***** Yep, spring clamps are better in that sense. I've had problems with gear clamps in the past and try to re-use spring clamps as much as possible.

[@seanm7539]

To be honest with you I wouldn’t reuse the Spring clamps I would put metal hose clamps on their

[@seanm7539]

Outlast both plastic pieces of crap

[@collinmcmullin7266]

Question, so for the transmission lines at the bottom of the radiator, I did it the other way. I removed the clamps from the lines that connect to the radiator. I wasnt able to get them completely in place causing minor leaks but could those leaks cause loss of power when accelerating and idling? Because I have rough acceleration (only occasionally but more often then not) and idling(occasionally but not as frequent as acclearating). Just had spark plugs replaced professionally and even got a 100 shot of fuel system cleaner, but I did do the radiator myself and am wondering if I should tighten the transmission lines, in hopes it's brings back more acceleration power and less idling. Please help!

[@frankiev116]

I got an automatic transmission radiator that was in really good shape for my car not realizing it’d be different since I have a manual. I’m guessing I’ll have to plug the 2 bottom things that I won’t be using, no?

[@LoudProudNPunk1]

...Anyways, thanks for this video. I have this same exact car (ok not exact, mine's a 1998 DX hatchback), and I plan on doing a coolant flush and thermostat replacement soon, but not replacement of the whole radiator. From what I can tell mine has a newer radiator already. I wanna replace the thermostat, because it's either the wrong one, or it's stuck open or opening too soon. I highly suspect engine overcooling.

[@tjames22123]

Thanks, Eric! Great video. I love the spark plug idea and cap idea. I happened to have a few lying around. :)

[@BadTripDevil]

Thank you Erik, you rock bro. So helpful, and informative.

[@blazinpuffs]

Hey Eric question, I installed the new radiator with a newer hose on the bottom awaiting the top one for tomorrow everything was set in place and the fan doesnt kick on. Before putting the radiator in I turned the car on and the fan turned on fine. I did cut the bottom of the old lower hose and drained everything out as well as putting high strength antifreeze in the radiator and reservoir. What could be causing the fan not to kick on?

[@stevengulley8950]

What about that piece of foam on the top outboard edge of the factory radiator? Irrelevant? Not REALLY needed?

[@Blargaldalien]

Does that new radiator also have a plastic top and bottom?I find that is where the 2 I have had replaced,in the life of my car tend to spring leaks from.

[@MikeRoePhonicsMusic]

Make sure the radiator is bolted to the car with that round metal thing on the top. The vibration can cause hairline fractures in the radiator plastic. It's rnough to cause an engine overheat. My stock radiator on my 1998 Civic got a hairline fracture. I replaced it last summer. All is well.

[@lifegvnfreely]

What brand of bent needle nose pliers are those? Its hard to find a heavy duty pair like those. Thanks!

[@ixCGAMExi]

Ever installed a dual row radiator on a civic? I have one coming and am worried that the coolant reservoir will need relocated

[@IvanZehirov]

Hello Eric!I got second hand toyota celica 2000 year 7 generation and i dont know anything about the cooling liquid.What will happen if i don't change it?I read in internet that every 2 years you should change your antifreeze is this correct ? Thank you

[@jonnyjacobson7595]

@ericthecarguy I Changed My Radiator, and Now my car doesn’t want to turn on. Do you know how I can fix this? I think I lost too much Transmission Fluid. You think this is the Problem? Thanks

[@Disproportionableness]

love love LOVE your videos, keep them coming!

[@carisajackson3575]

I have a 1998 Honda Civics DXL every time I cut on the air conditioner the car runs hot I'm trying to find out what could be wrong I have changed the water pump on the car cuz it was leaking so I change the water pump so I'm trying to figure out what could be wrong with the vehicle. Cuz I was just thinking of replacing the whole radiator I know the thermostat needs to be changed but I'm trying to find out why does it always run hot when I cut the AC on if you can answer this question for me I will greatly appreciate it thank you

[@TsunboRecords]

Doing the same thing today on a Civic MB3 1999.... Thanks for the video! :D

[@hugoa.aguayo144]

Whats up Eric, would you happen to know the difference between the full size rad. and the half size passenger side rad.? Im gonna need to replace my rad. soon on my 98 Integra

[@RawbThievez510]

Problem: 1994 Honda Civic EX 1.6L and I purchased a new radiator. Old radiator fan doesn't fit. Lines up, but the top bolts will not reach because they are too far apart. Any easy fixes? Like using a longer bolt? Or do I need to also buy a new fan that will actually fit the new radiator...?

[@obxguy1]

Great Video! Eric, Do you know which one of those transmission lines are the return line to the Transmission? Thanks!

[@boell4grumpa]

Don't get me wrong I'm a big fan, but I think I'd take a couple of things a step further. Clean the radiator hose inlet/ outlet with sandcloth. Those Honda's alloy parts get a lot of corrosion. Replace the hoses and clamps. It's just good practice. Hoses and clamps are cheap insurance. Old bolts that get re-used get the wire wheel and a dab of anti-sieze. I'm maybe just a neat freak. I'm also working on my own car so maybe really clean matters more to me since it's my car and I'm not in a big hurry to git-er-done and out of there. Thanks for all your videos....you've helped me many times

[@ericthecarguy]

With the exception of cleaning the inlets and fasteners I believe I covered the rest of your suggestions in the video. Honestly, I'm not a fan of aftermarket hoses and the Honda hoses can be pricy, so if the Honda hoses are still good, I normally keep them. Thanks for your input.

[@timejumper8003]

Hi Eric I've been watching for years good job on all your videos and you can't even the world do you have a video for adjusting a hood latch on a 98 Civic I hit a deer and had to replace my hood and the did my best to get the body back into condition but it is a little off looks fine but a little off the latch will not lock. I have got it to lock but it's been in pain lately.

[@Senorinka]

I have an ek 99 vti and the same shit happen to mine had a leak from the top area its common for this models. 😬 so I ended up putting an fully Heavyduty aftermarket one looks mint now

[@scottgriffin449]

very good step by step instructions in the video eric

[@RX7GSLSEowner]

Drug the catch pan as he backed out ... classic! We've all been there, done that! lol

[@808sandheartbreak1]

Greetings from the UK. Another great and detailed video Eric. It's a job like this that anyone can do if they just roll up their sleeves, put their mind to it and get their hands dirty. and save ££££££ or $$$$$$

[@intruzione]

What can you use if you don't have those plugs for the transmission fluid lines??

[@RzVids]

So how does Coolant flow the silver part? How does coolant not gush out if there is no cover and fan is blowing on it?

[@Y10Q]

whatever you do, replace the hoses. I have had them fail few months after I would replace the radiator. Guaranteed failure on every car I owned. Whenever car overheats even slightly, hoses, Cap, thermostat and Coolant sensor have to be replaced because the hot coolant somehow ALWAYS ends up damaging them. They will fail very soon after the overheat and then you will have to do the same thing all over again, 100% guarantee you.

[@MuddyDrivewayProductions]

I would have done the same with the coolant pan lol. Great job Eric good pointers. Aloha and stay warm

[@irregularmana6216]

What is that part next to the radiator? The one with the fan. Idk the first thing about engines or anything, and I just bought a 96 Ex and I am having to do somework on it.

[@SRT_Hefe]

Ac condenser?

[@BeatBum805]

When reinstalling the "cooler lines" under the car, where do you get the cap to plug the lines?

[@gustavodiaz5766]

Two questions :1.) Can I use the Type 2 Honda Coolant Blue Color on a 2000 Honda Civic DX?..... 2.) Does Honda sells the Green One?

[@icm2431]

very nice tutorial we're big fans of your channel

[@cameron0902]

I noticed the coolant leaked from the top tank is that common? My 97 had done the exact same thing btw great video

[@haloreachforgers547]

i have a 98 civic and i have a bad radiator and im not using the ac cooler am i able to remove both and get a bigger radiator or will that cause issues ?

[@Blackhatchic1]

Eric, I am following this video step-by-step and you are on removing the transmission lines, you said if your car is a manual transmission that you can skip this step OK cool but the radiator that I ordered has these connectors on the bottom. Can I still use it with a straight drive 99 Honda civic EX? Mother of TODD!! It's like these two Hondas that my son and I have-( mine being a 99 civic his being a 94 Accord ) are progressively trying to drive me to Drinking!! The simplest of repairs done on a 1978 TransAm are 65 times more complicated and aggravating for a car 20 yrs newer!! Ok. about this radiator, what is your direction here? As I trust no one else😎

[@Blackhatchic1]

nevermind i figured it out

[@jtmack77]

Was the cracked old radiator the symptom and not the cause? Did you rerun the pressure test? Just wondering that a small leak over a period of time will bring you back to the same problem/condition.

[@ericthecarguy]

That's covered in the pressure testing video. Link in the description.

[@rubensarino4217]

I have a manual transmission, do I need to plug the transmission cooling ports with a fastener or are the plastic plugs sufficient? Thanks!

[@Cjbman]

Ruben Sarino the transmission cooler section is separate on the inside so you can leave them off if you wanted.

[@house_greyjoy]

Isn't the thermostat located near the top hose? You pointed out that the thermostat was near the bottom hose.

[@junglejim13660]

Was it one of those rusty bolts or spring clamps that caught your drain pan Eric? Great video as always.

[@joshuakuberski8002]

Can you buy a radiator without the transmission lines .and will it work without the transmission lines.

[@Aquavita-]

This may be a dumb question but I am still learning and I may not get an answer back but what is it that is next to the radiator with the hot and cold valves(?)? Only reason I am asking is that a friend of mine whose civic I've recently replaced the radiator on is still having some issues leaking. Is that a second radiator or is it for something different completely? I'm trying to factor what could be the culprit to the problem. I may go back and double check somethings to make sure everything is sealed tight on the newly replaced radiator but an answer to this question will still help me out a lot.

[@Longtrailside]

That is for your air conditioning. Red is for your high pressure and the blue is for your low pressure. It has nothing to do with your cooling system. Best way to find leaks is to top off the system and buy a radiator pressure tester and then test the cooling system and look for leaks.

[@Aquavita-]

Longtrailside beautiful that's good to know for future reference, we figured out what was up in the end, her radiator was still replacing liquid that it needed and wasn't actually leaking like she thought.

[@victorsullivan4660]

Hi Eric, I know computers but I suck at cars. So I have a question for you about a bad transmission. I have a new VW Passat 2010 and it is a 2.0T with 4,000 miles on the vehicle. So it hasn't been driven that much between 2010 and 2014 at all. The transmission is AUTOMATIC but it is supposed to be a fancy DSG (Direct Shift Gearbox) AUTOMATIC transmission with ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Summary: Problem with the transmission: when stopped and take foot off brake and try to accelerate car has no power and then eventually kicks in. If on a hill the car will roll backwards and then accelerate. I am not used to this with a automatic transmission, I want the car to roll forward when I take my foot off the brake. That tells me that the bite point on the clutch is tuned so that the idling car has enough power to roll the car. I think there is something wrong with the transmission b/c when the vehicle is in the "D" position and stopped (ie, stop sign or stop light) in the 0 to 0.5 seconds that I take my foot off the BRAKE and put my food on the ACCELERATOR the car does not roll forward, then from 0.5 to 2 seconds that I am pressing the ACCELERATOR. What is your experience with this problem? What vocabulary would you use with an Auto Engineer to address the problem to resolve this issue? Thank you, Victor S.

[@tschuy3923]

Nicely done Eric. Thank you sir for a great video...

[@HienNguyen-tx6vp]

How do you know when you're done bleeding the system? Or do you wait for the fan to turn on and stop.

[@ericthecarguy]

Link in the description to a video on the process.

[@moisesvilla6381]

I've done everything to the new radiator and even put new sensor switches on but my fan still doesn't turn on, I've also tested it to my battery and it works fine but when the car heats up it over heats because the fan doesn't wanna turn on, can you please help

[@chrisgalliford4315]

If you have a civic or any honda in general, it could be the fan switch/thermoswitch.

[@RzVids]

Check the relay/fuse