Best Ways to Get Rusty Nuts and Bolts Off (Effective Techniques)

[@joepmurray]

Best of the internet right here folks. This guy presented more solutions in 10 minutes than most politicians do in 4 years.

[@JMrealgamer]

So true!

[@shannonforusa45]

Exactly. Yet, that is never the goal of pols

[@Muddface100]

😄😄🙌 Facts!!!!

[@npmerrill]

I mean, yeah, but it’s their corporate handlers that prevent any real change or solutions.

[@Turk_313]

​@@shannonforusa45😅 😮😮😮

[@cenkaetaya]

After watching 15 of these videos you are the only one who actually MENTIONS using cold. I always like to use hot / cold together.

[@sandeepraje6752]

Awesome tips. Opened up the mind to a different way of looking at problems -- Improve the grip, increase the leverage/torque. This line of thinking can be applied to other problems too.

[@robbiemurda2213]

Just started doing hvac and rusty bolts and shafts are the bane of my existence 😤

[@Hebsparks]

One of the best of the entire internet. Thank you!!!

[@jameseverett4976]

I notice these videos always use easy access bolts as examples, but the most common reason for stuck and stripped bolts is that they're in hard to access places, which makes them hard to get a wrench around, which is what caused the fiasco in the 1st place.

[@mog7501]

YES! I'm struggling with a really rusted rear damper bolt, it's squeezed really tight up there, there's barely any room. I need a 6-12" extender to even get to the thing. And the bolt faces downward. No leverage at all.

[@Shr1mp2K]

@@mog7501 Wow, Im having the same problem with my rear shock bolts on my mazda 3 2006... Did you get them out?

[@mog7501]

@@Shr1mp2K I gave up and went to a mechanic. Even for them it took like 2 hrs lol. Ended up paying $80 for one nut 😭. Most expensive nut removal in my life. They had a really tighter extractor socket and some other special tools. I already tried heat, extractor socket, grinder tool and nothing worked.

[@ottofumbler7267]

Exactly! The title says "nuts and bolts", but he's only working on a nut, which is a walk in the park compared to bolts. Let's see him try these same tips on rusty seized caliper bracket bolts while working in his driveway. Lots and lots of heat is usually what's required.

[@jeffgeisinger6832]

Agreed, Getting the nut off is one thing. Backing a seized bolt out of an engine block is where I struggle

[@tufimckane]

Thank you so much dude. This is video is the most complete tutorial for removing stuck bolt i ever seen. So many methods. I succeeded with using pipe wrench.

[@antoniolopes8776]

I tried that too using a pipe wrench made in China. It broke! The bolt, a very large one, is still there (in a farming implement).

[@jonwikan3986]

Great tips. I pretty much go to the heating the female and adding wax from a candle as a time saver. Works for threaded plumbing joints, manifolds etc...sometimes on very large marine applications I have to use oxy acetylene to get the parts hot enough to suck the wax in but this is king!

[@johnjames77]

I was taught that years ago and was happy to see it listed here ! I am in a situation where if I break off the bolts it could cost thousands and major labor. I am going to use most of the ideas before I go -for-it.I really like the ATF and Acetone combo which I will let soak for a few days before I do the heat and wax. I am also going to just turn it a quarter turn and the tighten about an eight turn and soak it again.

[@humilityconsulting7499]

​@@johnjames77so what happened?

[@claypottinger7372]

I worked at an aircraft engine plant. Outer rings and nuts would be heated and dry ice (-109.3 F) would be placed against the bolt or inner surface. I know it might not be practical but it demonstrates how expansion and contraction can really loosen married items of metal.

[@kylebaird4642]

Great tip, thanks!

[@boots7859]

Hah, thanks for that. Heated up a mower deck wheel leg which is frozen to 800 f with acetylene for 15-20 minutes, still no movement. Someone suggested heating and dousing with cold water, which I'll try first, after that I'll try the dry ice.

[@timpascale4151]

Absolutely the best reference on youtube about frozen nuts. I have watched several longer ones on just one technique.

[@Botmatrix]

Excellent info right here! Got those bolts out with the pipe wrench method + a torch, thank you, you’re a life saver!

[@sman7333]

I really didn't want to change the inner tie rod, but the adjustment nut was frozen on with rust from the 2000 Eldorado being in Wisconsin most of its life. With tips from this video, I soaked the nut in PB Blaster overnight then tried again. Still couldn't get the nut to move (Wenches, high torque impact driver, etc.). Then I tried heating the nut with a BernzOmatic followed with a douse in very cold water. Instead of trying to loosen, I instead tightened to try to break the nut free, and it did break pretty easily. Thanks Error Code Guy, I would never have thought of doing this!

[@shoestringeng6473]

Great Vajayo! only two additional tricks I know that you did not include welding a bolt onto a stripped head ( typically an oil pan drain plug) the other trick is use an air chisel on the end of the tool ( best if it is used on cheater pipe and not the tool itself) to hammer off the bolt. The important point that may have been missed here is that it seems like the hitting, tapping and shock ( thermal and mechanical) is the secret and use all the different options prior to stripping the nut or bolt.

[@marval544]

Very informative video. All in one video on rusted item removal. Thank you sir.

[@eVnState]

Awesome!! Thanks for sharing these tips to us. Usualy, i used to grab an hammer an hit the spanner, to allow the loosen for the bolt itself. I'm curius to use the ATF+acetone combo. If the problem is the rust, i've listened from a mechanic that he used to tight and the loose the bolt, few degrees, just to broke that the rust in it.

[@Winslow273]

Like this a lot. An old mechanic friend of mine used to say "liquid steel can't hold torque".....so if it sTHAT bad, just heat it up until it flows away...🙂

[@peterhull100]

Thanks for the tips. I have just had a fight with a small outboard. I used most of your ideas but the combination of ferrous metals mixing with alloys created a lot of galvanic corrosion. In the end I had to drill it it off. I like the nut splitting idea. The problem with small outboards the very small constricted space available for tools

[@dwhallon21]

Great info for the DIY guy or gal that gets into a bind with rusted or siezed nuts. I have used mose of these in the past with varied effectiveness. Also used impact hammer with shake and brake tool to help loosen the rust

[@donelistening5132]

Thank you for your video. It saved us on a motorcycle build. Thank you

[@danr.graham9331]

Great solutions for headaches. Seems like each one will work. Thanks for sharing.

[@jonenglish6617]

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. outstanding. The only one that you didn't mention was the smoke wrench. Oxy acetylene torch. That as my dad used to say "is for when you are done talkin"

[@6512651]

Great video thanks. I have used these techniques with good success. I find that rust check is an excellent penetrating oil especially if you can let it sit over night. If possible you can put rusted assemblies into warm vinegar for a couple of days to remove rust, the hotter the better. I have done that with rust seized alternators and have gotten them working without any disassembly.

[@jrvej]

Great video with various techniques I didn't know about. Thank you

[@HereticActual]

actually if you can heat the nut while being careful not to heat the bolt (on something big enough is the easiest way but adjust your torch size to the job) the inside diameter of the nut will expand, and can make it easier to extract. be careful though, if you heat the bolt equally it negates the effect. This is how rail car wheels are put on (a wheel is heated then allowed to cool on the axle creating a friction fit) (thanks physics 101 and 102 professor at my community college! You were bad ass Mr. Burkhart!)

[@errorcodeguy456]

+Horrible Hebrew It's great having a great teacher. I am still forever indebted to a few of my high school teachers. The more we understand about physics, the better problem-solving we can do.

[@dfgyuhdd]

That principle is only effective for two parts that are not already bonded together. After they have bonded with rust you'll never get a temperature delta of more than 20° or 30° F. What is happening is the iron oxide is actually combusting (or beginning to) and the bond is weakened.

[@foxxyrocker82]

Actually, even when both parts heat up and expand, anything between them expands as well, including gaps/air filled spaces, which can help loosen things up.

[@jameszarlengo8794]

Good entertainment for the whole family ! (And helpful tips, too.)

[@martinparker6536]

interesting re the Acetone/ATF mix.....i'll try that on my winter project !

[@juliacodell2726]

I got my husband a fur-lined jockstrap for frozen nuts.

[@cameronwoodall1811]

you're a saint

[@bradleysmall2230]

@@cameronwoodall1811 my best friend used deep penetrating lube on my girl friends deep hole when he got his SCREW stuck in it.. much to my chagrin after he un froze the connection he loosened and tightened the shaft so it would not bind. He was free to withdraw his cam shaft from her exhaust manifold when he was done....

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful !! I learned lots !!! Thanks mate . 👊🏼 🔥

[@nexusparadigm4062]

ATF + acetone. I didn't knew that one. Thank you.

[@nestorroman2694]

Excellent information Sir

[@nutz4all71]

Sir, you have my sincere thanks! Great information, great video!

[@yusufmiftahudeen]

God bless you! i tried the heat up and cold water ,, it works perfectly

[@jerrymander8020]

Great info and BTW Liquid Wrench works BETTER than the 50:50 ATF ACETONE mix. A video on youtube showed a comparison of penetrating oils.

[@farwestern99]

"Project Farm" that youtuber is a saint

[@marcusholm256]

Great tips, thank you!

[@mbongeninzimande2111]

Very helpful and interesting techniques indeed! 👍Thank you sir 🙏

[@Rabbit.760]

Filing it down to the next size... My God how come I never think of such good yet obvious ideas

[@duttydiesel8303]

Gotta get rid of what the world teaches "specific tools for specific jobs".... Reality is use what works if it works. Lol

[@dw4940]

Same!

[@alwoolhouse6255]

Am binge watching your channel after finding the vid on fuel problems. What an Aladdins Cave of ideas. Never seen the paraffin wax trick before.

[@Ghostrider-71]

This is great. I have a snapped off bolt head that is making me question all reality. Ran out of 4 letter words yesterday.

[@northeastcorridorrailfan2236]

The blowtorch with the cold water works wonders

[@kkooloo5781]

Best video out there.Was always lookin for one that could give a preventative tip and only yours explained about antiseize. Greetings from England🇬🇧

[@PRNadh]

Best ways of removing nuts, Verymuch interesting, many many thanks.

[@helmhurst]

Great vids man. Now I got so many options to ruin my bolts LMFAO. Cheers

[@neilbain8736]

Candle wax is bloody good. It's like solid freeing oil which doesn't evaporate in a cloud of vapour if you've been heating the job. WD40 and GT85 or TF2 are crap. I was brought up before they were mainstream and I used Plus Gas, Holts Rustola, or Duckhams Duck Oil. Plus Gas is really good. It creeps and gets everywhere. It's like slightly oilier paraffin ( kerosene ). Even paraffin/kerosene on its own creeps well but doesn't lubricate so good.

[@melvis2017]

Very great job and thanks for sharing with us

[@richreeder1786]

Thank you only left if is a touch, got all the possibilities !

[@lembergnative7731]

love it - thank you! I'm going to use some of these tips to try and remove some rusted bolts on an old compound miter saw someone gave me.

[@alpha-dh6sk]

Thank you sir your video really gave me knowledge.

[@BionicRusty]

Wow 😮 Paraffin wax and auto ‘box oil are genius. Thanks so much. 🙏 I sometimes use a small rag, wrapped around the nut and then soak the rag with WD40 (as well as the nut prior to wrapping) and then leave for an hour. I then remove the rag, heat with a torch and try again. Sometimes it works and sometimes I cry 😭

[@michaelgossett1415]

Thank you, So much!!! I have an alternator I am trying to replace. The tension belt adjuster is a monster rusted. I am certain one of these techniques will work.

[@ThatGuyFromDK]

Thanks Hank Hill, this is very helpful!

[@grahamhall2662]

Very good thank you. Also you can sometimes knock on a smaller size socket with a hammer and a scrap piece of ally or a mandrel on to a rounded nut. eg - 3/8ths can be forced on to a 10mm nut. Heat is best if you are not going to damage any surrounding area. If you are removing glow plugs on a diesel run the engine to got them hot first, works for me every time.

[@eedom69]

I got a 6.5 diesel and the injection lines are stuck at the injector. 1 out of the 5 I have tested moved. There are rubber lines around and leaking oil which is why I am trying to get them off to fix leaking valve covers. Wish I knew about running the diesel before taking the glow plugs off as last year I got 7 out and the last one broke. I tried extractors and just hollowed it out. It's still sealed and one mechanic I took it too said he didn't dare try welding a nut to it because he was afraid i would melt the tip off. i tried citric acid and soda and brushes to clean it up the rust and more penetrating oil. Tmrw I will try again. any other ideas?

[@eedom69]

how long do you run the diesel for? 1/2 hour? hour? think it might work with the injection line nuts?

[@grahamhall2662]

@@eedom69 just till engine is hot 1/2 hour is good

[@x-man5056]

Very good. Room to work is always an issue. I like to use an air chisel rather than a hammer and chisel and when hitting a wrench with a hammer use a "Dead Blow" hammer. Removing rusty nuts is not the real trial though. The hard ones are bolts into a casting, like exhaust manifold bolts. For those you cant get penetrating oil into the threads. I cut the heads of with a carborundum disc on a die grinder, take off the manifold and heat each remaining stud individually, then ad penetrating oil. Whack them good with a hefty ball peen (strait on, not the sides and try to work them lose with vise grips. If they are still not coming loose, you can weld a good nut on them and keep trying. Heat will always help get penetrating oil down into the threads. Be generous with the oil. If you are using a torch, make sure not to use flammable P oil. WD40 is very flammable and not a very good penetrant IMO. Liquid Wrench is not flammable for one, there are others. If the part is still on the vehicle I prefer to use good heat gun vs torch. It takes longer but the fire dept doen't get involved. I have had very good luck with CRC Frezze Off. Best I ever used was Break Free in a pump bottle but haven't seen any for years. Used to use it on F-111's often back in the day.

[@philyamascunt7518]

X-Man Are you talking about the CLP Break Free?

[@tinybusinesses1566]

I'm trying to remove a frozen bolt/screw on the underside of a swivel base on an old Craftsman bench vise. It's the big bolt/screw in the center of the swivel base. My vise was burned in the 2018 Camp Fire, Paradise, Calif., and then it rusted in the following rains. It has a screw slot head! Any suggestions before I do some real damage? Thanks

[@x-man5056]

@@tinybusinesses1566 I don't have a clear enough mental picture of your conundrum to give specific advise. Make sure you have removed as much rust as possible in the direction the parts will come lose. Wire wheel on a drill motor, get it as clean as you can. If you have access to the female threaded portion (nut?), you can heat it with a propane torch and apply penetrant (non-flammable only, recommend CRC freeze off). don't over heat. You want most of the heat on the female thread part. If the female threaded portion is in a casting, apply heat to the male thread portion where it meets the female thread and then some penetrant let it penetrant until cool enough to touch and hold. Heat it again but only long enough to make it too hot to touch (too hot not desirable, no red), ad more penetrant and then a sharp smack with a hefty hammer linear with the shaft of the male threaded part (as in hit a bolt on the head), use a drift if necessary, a few sharp smacks (wear safety glasses), then try to break torque. If that doesn't work, a air hammer my help if you have one and compressor of course. Repeated cycles of heat, penetrant and impact, then try to break torque may be needed. Good luck, that always helps in these iffy situations.

[@richardtrowell8812]

X Man still out there? Used to work on the F-111 myself. Can still remember how the earth shook under my feet when that thing fired up the afterburners. Just Awesome.

[@x-man5056]

@@richardtrowell8812 Yup. They had a hush house at McClellan for them. Made it barely tolerable when they were testing. Neat plane. Nothing in the inventory right now quite like them.

[@alphamale3141]

Thanks for your effort friend.

[@davidmetcalf1093]

Great information ! My problem is lug nuts on a car, much harder to get to and a major pain in the _ _ _.

[@HeavenlyDivineTaro]

I switched up from.the wrench to other tools and that did it brother thanks so much 🙏 😊

[@johnharper3404]

yes sir, good simple idea's core of most american minds thanks bud.

[@sudhansusekharmishra7642]

gentleman , all the trics you explained are true but it is certainly useful under different situation i.e., position of bolts etc. a solution of sulfuric acid h2so4 is quite helpful to remove old rust that I have experienced subject to precautions.

[@Elaba_]

8:35 Brilliant. I have never seen that technique before.

[@joem2197]

Methods worked well on nuts. But rusted bolts into threads you have to save inside threads, and replace with new bolts. Will try 6 point impact socket with breaker bar with pipe over it and more penetrant. But harder to get penetrant in when you just have the side bolt to get penetrant in. Am going to try a little heat on the part I am trying to save. But not a lot. Other ideas for when just the bolt head is showing ? Thank you for your post.

[@kkooloo5781]

Probably best video on subject. ✌From England ♑

[@patrickgannon8190]

Very interesting, thanks 👍

[@techmedilife]

Absolutely amazing. You are a god amongst men. Thank you so much sir.

[@JS-bw9hs]

Thanks for the cool techniques!

[@JamesDoylesGarage]

I've got the easiest way to do it. I yell really loudly .... "Daaaaad !!! "

[@ianjones4116]

Lol, I am that DAD 👍

[@ianjones4116]

Better to ask Dad, than fuck it up, stupid boy, Lol. Great comment mate.

[@antoniolopes8776]

One day you'll be the dad, so start learning now and avoid making a fool of yourself in 20/30 years time. A hug from Portugal.

[@JamesDoylesGarage]

@@antoniolopes8776 And one day you'll be old enough to not be so up tight and enjoy a joke instead of remaining the fool you are. Or is that day past lol.

[@BillSmith-kl7sb]

@@antoniolopes8776 I think 48 people enjoyed the laugh. Are you having a bad day LOL.

[@tundrajt]

Anti-Seize is a godsend when you live in the rust belt! When I was younger, I would buy a car and completely take apart all the stuff underneath and reassemble with Anti-Seize to prevent issues down the road. It has always beat me why auto manufacturers don’t put this stuff liberally on every fastener when new. I’d gladly pay more just to have that peace of mind!

[@bobjohnson8206]

Deep Creep is far superior over PB Blaster and is nonflammable, works the best with a propane torch.

[@brianhartman3186]

Great video, can't thank you enough!

[@martincortez2339]

Awesome video!

[@MuntiionCars]

SPOT ON MATE!! thank you!!!

[@marcellolunnardibsantos2734]

Awesome tips!! Thanks a lot!!

[@jeffreywolf5235]

I found rocket sockets to be incredibly beneficial for Frozen bolts. Also the go 2 socket..

[@tolvajakos]

thanx i was trying to undo two parts of a little dremel-tool type thing. number 8 did it. i heated the thing up, then dipped it in icey cold water, didn't work. did it three more times, worked like a charm although i had tried everything before. now i just need to figure out how to prevent this from happening again. i don't know if you can get this anti-seeze thing in my country but maybe you can get something similar

[@martymcfly3986]

great video, thank you

[@patrickpeterman4890]

good video I learned a lot thank you, PATRICK

[@boots7859]

Actually, another comment. Sometimes you can try to tighten a frozen connector which will move just a smidge. Then go back and forth loosening/tightening a little at a time. Actually heard about this, but only seen it work once....

[@PateFamilyHomestead]

What are the vice grips you used to remove the bolt? Never seen them before

[@Rainman270]

Thanks much. Do you need to clean that rubber ( or plastic ) hose that the Acetone/AT fluid came out of ? If so, what ? Thanks.

[@charlieharper4975]

excellent and comprehensive

[@waltferrari-mw9fm]

Thank you so much for your advice. It’s been so helpful but the one problem I’m having is getting brake lines loose without tearing the you know the fitting up or getting it off in one piece and I do the things you talk about with the bolt, but is there any different procedure for brake lines on old cars?

[@stever5887]

Over the years, I've recognized that the easiest way to remove a nut or fastener is to simply coat the threads with oil as you install them. You save yourself some trouble later, and that of the tech or mechanic who has to work on it after you're gone. Very effective, and at virtually no cost when you do it. Anti-seize is perhaps more effective and probably longer-lasting; use whichever you have at the moment. Either is better than installing them dry.

[@SunriseSuperThruster]

Very interesting.

[@lostintime8651]

I kept waiting for him to get to a rusty bolt.

[@dw4940]

EXCELLENT VIDEO, THE BEST!!!

[@ramchillarege1658]

Great Video. I am struggling to take a 1/8 hex set screw from the base (collet?) hub of an inducer motors where the squirrel cage blower wheel is rusted and gone. Any ideas are welcome. I tried PB blaster, heat.. (may be need to cycle it some more hot/cold like you suggested) It's destroyed a few 1/8 allen keys so far.

[@yakobwakjera2102]

Men it's a lot of tip thanks

[@trankt54155]

An excellent video. Thank you.

[@robertbrandt1638]

Excellent

[@aricunono6272]

Very very good tips...

[@eBisofta]

Do you use cemikal clean aceton or aceton with oil

[@higler.]

This was awesome!

[@teamlows]

The chisel method where you cut into a bolt is my go to. I don’t use a chisel i take a dremel with a cutting disc. Very small tool and can get in tight areas

[@gergemall]

Thank you, great video. Lord knows how much time I’ve wasted in my lifetime on frozen nuts and bolts .

[@Eremon1]

I'm not a fan of the heating up red hot then dousing with water technique. Unless you like broken bolts and studs. Awesome video thought. A lot of great ideas to get off those stubborn fasteners. Cheers.

[@martinparker6536]

agreed ....makes them brittle.....better with some penetrant after heating the heat again......rinse and repeat !

[@CanzZz]

came here because the engine mounting nuts and bolts of my project bike are all completely rusted. the problem i have is that the metal they are made of is soo soft that i strip the nutby the easiest push with a wrench. this thing sits in my garage for one year untouched now because i just cant get them lose and lost focus. these are some interesting new ways on losing bolts i didnt know thanks

[@markpaezjr1318]

This helps out big time

[@errorcodeguy456]

+Mark Paez Jr Glad you enjoyed the video. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Also if you have any techniques that have worked for you, I would love to hear about it. It's always a tough job getting these rusty nuts and bolts off.

[@mrdirth128]

Great video. Thank you.

[@willyjankins]

How long did it take to let the rust take back over between clips?

[@draxler2941]

Breaker bar did the job for me... thanks

[@juansarabia7530]

My classic c-10 has had the current bumper for 30-40 years. Square holes in chrome bumper will round out easy

[@stever5887]

With pipe wrenches, make sure you push it all the way on (i.e., be sure that you have a three-point connection with the two jaws and the inside back of the wrench against the fastener). If you don't, you stand a good chance of "ovaling" the bolt or nut so that it cannot be re-used. Funny, but you used a ratcheting combination wrench to TIGHTEN the nut splitter on the frozen nut, after you explicitly told us not to try to break things loose with one; that warning works in BOTH directions. Where was the breaker bar at this point? It's amazing how many people don't put oil, grease or anti-seize on a fastener when they first install or reinstall a fastener. This act takes just a few moments, but saves so much time later. Just be sure to use a wire brush first to remove any existing corrosion. The propane torch and wax is a great tip; it works really well on corroded lug nuts, too. I agree that 6-point sockets and wrenches have it all over their 12-point brothers. For some reason, however, 12-point sockets are more prevalent than 6-pointers. The same goes for 12-point wrenches; 6-points are superior to 12-points here, too. You have to go out of your way to get either, though, and I've never heard the logic for that one; the drive end of sockets and ratchets has always been four points. Actually, I've always wondered why 4-point fasteners and the sockets/wrenches needed for them aren't the norm; they have even less of a tendency to round-over than 6-pointers. Somebody must know if it was aesthetics, production cost or a well-documented engineering decision to move to 6-points. On many new cars, 12-point fasteners are used; why did that happen?

[@boots7859]

Most people don't grease fittings because they rarely come across rusted ones. Those that do come across them figure it out. And lubing a fitting, even a single drop of oil changes the torque applied when bolted or screwed by 30%. An actually dry fitting spec'd to torque to 100 ft/lbs only needs to be torqued to 70 ft/lbs if lubed or anti-siezed. The lube reduces thread friction significantly. Not a big deal for studs or simple mechanical fastening, definately want to remember if using it on engine or other parts which have critical torque specs.