Et 310 test

From a light switch that lights a ballast going to a breaker panel. I can't get the tool to work

[@JimMcLaren1950]

Try removing the wires from the switch and connecting the alligator clips. Think the power goes to the light first then to the switch. That's why you have the neutral wire ( white ) on the switch. So your hot wire is the neutral wire. You have to bring power to the switch to control the light.

[@zeus136988]

I saw your post on another video about how to find a circuit breaker to a light switch. I recently had to perform a light switch replacement. It was a 3-way switch I had to replace at the top of the stairs. I used an old Southwire Circuit Breaker Finder 41210S with the Southwire Circuit Breaker Finder Adapter Kit I bought at Lowes a long time ago. I used the alligator clip adapter to connect the transmitter to the light switch; one alligator clip to "common" terminal and the other to one of the "traveler" terminals. The red indicator light on the transmitter lit up. I then took the receiver downstairs to the electrical box. I was able to trace that switch to the specific circuit breaker with no problem. The receiver did sound just a little bit weaker than when I trace an outlet but the only difference is the grounding wire. When connecting the transmitter to the outlet, it is using "hot", "neutral", and "ground". When connecting with the alligator clip adapter, it's only using "hot" and "neutral". I'll try to connect and trace a 1-way switch sometime this weekend and reply to this post on what I find out.

[@victorm.8577]

soooooo any luck?

[@sir_frag1868]

You need to run the finder down the breakers twice to calibrate it. On the second pass it will find your breaker.

[@goldwingerppg5953]

Was your switch upside down?

[@EELA2024]

Did you ever figure out how to use the breaker finder on a switch?

[@pineronyc]

For real? You have the neutral as the feed which is crazy

[@timhardman4764]

You should really take down this video, it's not helpful for anyone...it's actually a "What Not to Do" video. 1. When testing any power cord or Romex, there are at least two wires inside the power cord or Romex. You must test ALL SIDES of the power cable or Romex to find the hot wire. If the hot wire is on the left side of the Power cord or Romex and you have the tester a fraction of an inch away on the other side of the power cord or Romex, it will not detect the LIVE HOT WIRE. A beginner might think there is no power in the cord and then handle it and get shocked. 2. The Receiver, the thing in your hand when sliding over the Breakers in the Circuit Breaker Panel needs to be Calibrated and Reset each time you use it and each time you test a different circuit. Reset is accomplished by powering the unit off and then on again. Calibration is accomplished by turning the unit on a couple feet away from the Breaker Panel, then bringing the unit to the panel and slowly sliding the unit over each breaker as you did with the unit perpendicular to the breaker at least TWO times...do it 3 times just to be sure. You only did it once and it did not finish calibrating. 3. There is an accessory package that comes with the alligator clips for testing bare wires or light switches at the screws where the wires connect. The package also comes with a light socket for testing lamps and ceiling lights. Reading the directions is a PIA but when playing with electricity, the risk is too high for trial and error. #1 and #2 above are clearly explained in the directions.