Ever After Gown: Renaissance Structured Bodice

Hello I’m Sophie. Welcome to the beginning of my sewing journey, come along with me through all the mistakes and seam ripping! And hopefully feel some solidarity that there are others bumbling their way through this hobby.
Follow me on Instagram to see what I’m currently working on- / andsewitbegins_
This video is the second of a series construction my favorite gown from Ever After (1998). This movie has been a favorite of mine since childhood. In this video I will be creating the second layer of the dress, which is an Italian Renaissance gamurra or underdress. Most of my research came from Maestra Suzzane De La Ferte essay “Patterning Italian Renaissance Gowns”. This document is extremely helpful if you are looking to sew your own Renaissance gown, the link is below.
What I want to do with the project is create a gown that replicates this costume as much as possible, while trying to stay with a more historically accurate approach. But of course there really is no such thing as “Historical Accuracy”, especially for this period, as much of the fashion history is conjecture without extant garments. And you know I’m machine sewing parts of this, and not using period appropriate techniques.
Disclaimer I am very much an amateur seamstress and make many mistakes.
Costume and Patterning Resources:
fashionthrough...
www.modaruniver...
www.modaruniver...
northshield.org...
www.everafterco...
Paintings Shown:
The Departure of Ceyx - c. 1505 Carrpaccio
Miracle of the Cross at the Bridge of St Lorenzo- c. 1500 Bellini
Materials Used:
- 8 yards of 100% silk brocade
- 1 yard of heavyweight linen
- 1 yard of medium weight linen
Sewing Machine- Husqvarna Viking 100 that I bought used
Cutting Mat and Ruler- www.amazon.com...
KZbin Studio Library Music:
Yonder Hill and Dale- Aaron Kenny
Journey in the New World- Twin Musicom
Stopping by the Inn- Twin Musicom
Renaissance- Audionautix
Master of the Feast- Kevin MacLeod
Folk Round- Kevin MacLeod
Renaissance Castle- Doug Maxwell_Media Right Productions

[@OddlyElly]

😍😭 this is my favourite dress from the movie! I just rewatched it on Saturday and fell in love with the costumes all over again. It's looking absolutely beautiful!!

[@AndSewitBegins]

They are all so gorgeous 😍

[@gjfhgkib4512]

this is one of my grandmas favorite movies. she always says, "Just tell him!" 🤣but yeah the costuming was so good. I really like that silver-blue dress with the teardrop pearl headpiece😍

[@AndSewitBegins]

I love that dress too ☺️

[@weepingwillow1993]

Next time you try gathering something like the ruffle on the bodice you're working on in this video I would recommend doing the rolled hem first and then putting 4 or 5 rows of gathering stitches along the length of the strip you are using. By pulling all of the gathering stitches together you can ruffle the fabric before pinning it on so you don't have to use so many pins and you don't have to worry about melting said pins while steaming them into place. Hope this helps.

[@AndSewitBegins]

That’s a great idea 👌

[@rabiabrattana2377]

Thank you for your talented video, it's amazing and it's looking beautiful.

[@BlackDowry]

OMG! I am so glad that someone else is also curious about 1490's gowns. I am currently in love with Lucrezia's dresses and bodice pieces for The Borgias. I think I will try this bodice idea in my own endeavors.

[@AndSewitBegins]

Every one seems to be buzzing about Lucrezia’s dresses right now, I watched the show when it came out but I think it’s time for a rewatch with my new costumer eyes😆

[@goddesofwolves]

I’m at work! I can’t watch it yet. I am soooooo happy to see someone do this dress. “Ever after “ is one of my fav movies. Cinderella as a bad ass B who can save her own self. Love!!!!!

[@AndSewitBegins]

Oh heck yeah, Danielle ain’t no damsel in distress 😆

[@sewchaotic]

There are also medieval support shifts that lace up tightly down the sides to support the bust, and they are usually sleeveless

[@AndSewitBegins]

Laura Horton Oh awesome, do you know if it has a specific name or is just like a sleeveless Kirtle?

[@meghan5237]

I am so glad you are making this dress! I plan on making a similar one for the Ren Faire for next year and watching this process is so so helpful!!

[@AndSewitBegins]

Yay that’s awesome to hear ☺️

[@FlavorsandTextures]

Nice!

[@habituscraeftig]

I know this is an older video, and you've likely come across resources, since. However, the way to get around boning is a strategically layered interlining piece of heavy linen with vertical rows of small basting stitches locking everything in place. I know it doesn't sound like it ought to be, but I've seen it myself, and the resulting bodice looks and handles as if lightly boned. Matthew Gnagy gives a good explanation of this in The Modern Mantua Maker, Vol. 2. Gnagy is working from historical tailoring manuals from Spain, but Spanish and some Italian cultures were closely interwoven at the time. I *believe* (but am not certain) that Margot Anderson also has instructions for the process, but I don't know if that would be in a specific pattern or the PDF of period sewing techniques that is included with all her patterns. This is not meant to critique, just as a resource. As your survey of fellow costumers shows, this has not been widely circulated information. I believe it was got through pattern manuals, and the oldest we have are technical manuals written in Spanish - hardly the resource one thinks to look to when crafting something almost invariably English or Italian.

[@thelmabirt7626]

Viewing your ironing over plastic beaded pins, this is why I keep regular pins in my cushion. Highly recommend keeping plain pins available. Great video, I LOVE Ever After! The b EST Drew Barrymore movie ever!

[@rachelunderwood4868]

I love how you just go for it with your rotary cutter! I also cannot work out why you have less than a thousands subscribers at this point - you deserve to have so many more! Never seen the film you’re inspired but, but loving your project.

[@AndSewitBegins]

Aww thanks that’s so sweet ☺️

[@thesuspiciousanchovy]

This turned out so good! I keep rewatching different clips to see how you did it - i'm obsesseddddddd

[@AndSewitBegins]

Aww thanks 😊 I think everyone needs a renaissance dress in life, it makes everything better

[@AbiSueCostumes]

Yay, that's such a great solution! I may have to do something similar when I get around to making one like it

[@AndSewitBegins]

I highly recommend ☺️ I’m so happy with how it worked out

[@KarinaDoRego]

Thanks to you.. I watched this movie with my girls!!

[@julithewizards1358]

Looks great! 💛

[@libbyheeren]

This dress is the first costume I ever worked on and wore, and watching your process was soooo fun! Subscribing for sure. Your bra solution is perfect!

[@AndSewitBegins]

Thanks 😊

[@emmabruce4990]

I love this! I made something similar but with cording to structure my renaissance bodice.

[@AndSewitBegins]

Dang that seems like the great way to make it structured with the right silhouette, I think I need to get over my fear of cording 🙈

[@julithewizards1358]

Yaaay, its done! Happy 1000! 🤗💖 That fills my Hufflepuff heart with joy. 😊

[@AndSewitBegins]

What an amazingly kind thing to wake up to today 🥰 thank you

[@julithewizards1358]

@@AndSewitBegins 🙂

[@personone1686]

I love the name of your channel!

[@AndSewitBegins]

Thanks 😊

[@Griiisetryne]

Aaah, that turned out so cute!

[@AndSewitBegins]

Griiisetryne thank you ☺️

[@emilysmith2784]

How comfortable is the bodice? I always fear the bones will dig into my underbust just like my modern bra does.

[@AndSewitBegins]

Emily Smith I actually find it super comfortable and haven’t noticed any digging in like that. At least not yet, I haven’t worn it for longer than an hour or two. There are lots of layers of fabric sitting where the bones end with the pleated skirt, so that probably helps

[@ChandelierPG]

At 5:30 please tell me that was you smelling the sharpie!!😂

[@practicallymedieval2027]

You might want to buy a walking foot for your machine if you're already investing in the silk. It really helps with slipping and weirdly tension issues as well.

[@AndSewitBegins]

This makes me feel silly cause I have a walking foot 🤦‍♀️ I just always thought it was for chunky fabrics and quilting only

[@TealCheetah]

22:07 is when one of my cats would show up lol

[@AndSewitBegins]

Vee Dragon 😂 don’t worry you’re not alone, Millie loves running across pattern paper non stop too

[@penelope-oe2vr]

Do you think they wore what's called "short stays" under this? They're like stays in a sports bra type shape. Doesn't go all the way down to the waist.

[@AndSewitBegins]

It’s definitely possible. I was thinking about making regency short stays to wear underneath so I could use an actual pattern, but I thought it would save me time to build it into the dress

[@julithewizards1358]

Can't stand the fact that there are 3 subscribers missing to 1000. We'll fix that.. 😘

[@harxmoond]

Loved this series.