Everest 2021: Deaths on Everest

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Alan Arnette

Alan Arnette

Күн бұрын

The #Everest2021 scene is quiet now with the jet stream on top of the summit. On the Tibet side, China canceled the only expedition there.
I’m getting a few reports of high winds at C3 from the last rotation, and it’s worse now. That said, look for teams to begin their summit bids aiming for May 19-23. If for next week they will leave EBC on Monday, May 17th, or perhaps this weekend.
Sadly death on Everest occurs almost every year. Since 1953, only 1965, 1971, and 1985 saw no deaths when people climbed that year. In 2021, we have seen two deaths already. In this episode, I examine deaths on Everest, the reasons, and perhaps how to avoid it.
As always, visit my blog at alanarnette.com for more details. I usually do a KZbin and podcast for each post but not always.

Пікірлер: 169
@philipford6183
@philipford6183 3 жыл бұрын
This should be a TEDTalk. Absolutely fascinating subject, especially the criticisms (which we so rarely, if ever, hear). I'm not a mountaineer, but I've read quite a few books on the subject. It's a compelling subject and I still don't understand what drives people to undertake such immensely dangerous challenges. Appreciate the video - just wish it was longer-form.
@jackmomma7481
@jackmomma7481 3 жыл бұрын
@@sanfranciscobay actually, last I heard it was well over 100,000 dollars per person. That includes the permit, and everything else. that was basically the same thing I have always said about people who climb Everest. It's mostly rich people who have practically endless amounts of disposable income to their name. Because of that, they have already seen and done everything they every wanted to several times over too quickly. So now they're bored. Having all that money just doesn't do it for them anymore, so... Everest it is! And the worst part about these people isn't so much that they aren't experienced climbers, but more so that they lack experience when it comes to "roughing it". Since they can easily afford it, they will hire additional Sherpas devoted to just that person. And they will carry meaningless billshit like cappuccino makers and other luxury items that they just HAVE to have with them This additional baggage is a big killer of sherpas
@MaxFromSydney1
@MaxFromSydney1 3 жыл бұрын
@alan arnette, Thank you so much for your insights. The climbers that I respect, aren’t just those who have summitted and returned safely, but those, like yourself, whose solid judgement won the argument with their summit ambitions, and safely came back after deciding to abandon that attempt because it was unwise to continue to climb. It’s the good judgement I respect the most; when to hold ‘em and when to fold ‘em.
@tommynikon2283
@tommynikon2283 3 жыл бұрын
Guided on Rainier/Alpine Ascents, 2008 season. 17 attempts, 13 summits; weather an issue for two attempts, hurt climber on another, and one trip- Exhaustion, all tapped out. As I tell people interested in the sport....it's all lungs and quads going up; it's all knees and hips coming down.
@EverlastGX
@EverlastGX 3 жыл бұрын
Ok
@terriwalsh9342
@terriwalsh9342 3 жыл бұрын
Thoughts and prayers to the families of the climbers. My cousin is presently pushing for the summit. Base camp to camp 2 this evening. Praying for a safe climb
@Flame44
@Flame44 3 жыл бұрын
Keep us posted- did weather hold up?
@rickless169
@rickless169 3 жыл бұрын
i wish him luck
@seanfox790
@seanfox790 3 жыл бұрын
How did your cousin get on?
@terriwalsh9342
@terriwalsh9342 3 жыл бұрын
He summited May 23 at 8;30 am (Nepal time). They said the weather was perfect. Clear and sunny. They got a great weather window. His team where the first to push so nobody in the front of them. It was just his team of 10 climbers and their sherpas and guides.
@seanfox790
@seanfox790 3 жыл бұрын
@@terriwalsh9342 amazing! Congratulations to your cousin!
@YahushasDisciple
@YahushasDisciple 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you Alan. 🙏🏼 This was an excellent breakdown of categories and helped my understanding. A most excellent podcast!
@scottgray493
@scottgray493 Жыл бұрын
I have watched this a few times Alan. I use this when I need to remember that I never need to go past my limits when every atom in my body is just racing ahead. And yes, memories are everything, for sure.
@KCCgoKartMAN
@KCCgoKartMAN 3 жыл бұрын
As a new climber in the Cascades, this was a great video to have bring things back into perspective. It’s too easy to forget about the dangers
@suebrown2238
@suebrown2238 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the updates xx
@clairemiller5320
@clairemiller5320 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the update, I really enjoy your videos 😀
@HuckfinnC
@HuckfinnC 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the update.
@michellehean4941
@michellehean4941 3 жыл бұрын
WOW. I've just recently started watching documentaries on true mountaineers and the history of climbing, etc. I am VERY impressed by you. Congratulations, Sir!
@claires8735
@claires8735 2 жыл бұрын
I thank God that you turned around! With my personality, I could not trust myself to not get summit fever. I can get very hyper-focused and stubborn.
@otisthegrouch9299
@otisthegrouch9299 3 жыл бұрын
I've watched all Everest or K2 videos KZbin has to offer. I still want to experience being there trekking.
@La_Ru-yg8es
@La_Ru-yg8es 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah, me too. I have no interest in climbing the mountain; I don't have a death wish. But, I want to see it and surround myself with all that beauty, on the Lukla-EBC trek. It's so pretty there it almost makes me cry. 💗
@user-ve2oh4pe9p
@user-ve2oh4pe9p 3 жыл бұрын
.
@matthewjames206
@matthewjames206 3 жыл бұрын
@@La_Ru-yg8es Absolutely. Trekking to EBC is a goal of mine.
@La_Ru-yg8es
@La_Ru-yg8es 3 жыл бұрын
@@matthewjames206 I'm aiming for late October/early November 2023, so, around 2 and a half years from now. My daughter might or might not be accompanying me; I'm selling her on it. 😉 Although it's my dream, not hers, I think Nepal, and especially that region, is the kind of place you return from a different person than you were before you went. Sometimes you "find yourself" in the wildest places.
@skiguru99
@skiguru99 3 жыл бұрын
Have u seen the indian army 2015 earthquake video? That was damn good
@UTClassof
@UTClassof 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the updates. its very informative.
@tintedsnowman
@tintedsnowman 3 жыл бұрын
Honest straightforward advice, thanks Al !!!
@kashifikram6273
@kashifikram6273 3 жыл бұрын
Great info Alan. Thanks.
@jamiestuart5186
@jamiestuart5186 3 жыл бұрын
Truly pathetic that moths are still drawn to this worthless flame. Men & this mountain are not compatible. My heart goes out to all of the families who have suffered from the unnecessary & avoidable loss.
@reecegunningham
@reecegunningham 3 жыл бұрын
Yet here you are watching videos on it
@jackmomma7481
@jackmomma7481 3 жыл бұрын
@@reecegunningham because it's mind blowing what these rich assholes do once they've done seen and experience everything too quickly I their lives
@jameseastwood4984
@jameseastwood4984 3 жыл бұрын
Alan, really informative thank you.
@EverlastGX
@EverlastGX 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all this
@debbieverret4033
@debbieverret4033 3 жыл бұрын
Great updates, thank you, prayers for those who were lost and their families.
@geraint8989
@geraint8989 3 жыл бұрын
Your passion for the mountain is clear, and I love how that translates to your passion for educating and informing. I hope your earnest efforts to warn those who need warning hit their mark.
@fredmercer9741
@fredmercer9741 3 жыл бұрын
Learn alot about everest ,why people climb her, the decisions that are made, how the sherpas are the masters of the mountain.I could not wait for your updates thanks for everything you rock ps. Your interviews with people on the mountain was asome, can't wait till next year
@2468mrg
@2468mrg 3 жыл бұрын
Great info,thanks.
@Lilmickcrocodiledundee0001
@Lilmickcrocodiledundee0001 3 жыл бұрын
Very sad. Thoughts and prayers to family and friends. RIP
@N0N4M30
@N0N4M30 3 жыл бұрын
Tbh you deserve even more respect for turning back when you knew it wouldn’t end well if you kept going so kudos for that !!
@theyoutubegeek7493
@theyoutubegeek7493 3 жыл бұрын
great talk!
@JaneDoe-ip5yl
@JaneDoe-ip5yl 3 жыл бұрын
This is the best info I have heard about everest. I have been interested in this after reading a book
@PuffKitty
@PuffKitty 3 жыл бұрын
There's a lot of good mountaineering documentaries on Amazon prime video, if you have that!
@aknudsen93
@aknudsen93 3 жыл бұрын
I am not a mountaineer. I do believe there are places in the world that people should respect and where we do not belong. Mt. Everest is one of these places. Seeing the garbage on the mountain, hikers walking past dead bodies. I do not understand this. To walk past a dead person just to make sure you can make your goal is foolish and selfish. No interest in hearing about people summiting Mt. Everest. It is a place on this earth that should be left in peace, along with those that have died trying to summit it.
@karlsbikestunts
@karlsbikestunts 3 жыл бұрын
Your a Humble Guy Allan awesome advice I’d be happy to reach base camp and see Everest from a distance ...
@sqwank2
@sqwank2 3 жыл бұрын
So after watching many mishaps on Mt Everast I am convinced that guides and clients need Risk management and a go-no- go checklist. Used by pilots as well as doctors this can be a intervention for the ones who follow these procedures and know the stats of not following the procedures. Or you can continue with letting the at risk clients and guides wing it as they go along in a bad situation while having impaired judgment. Just my observation
@admiralaokiji7889
@admiralaokiji7889 3 жыл бұрын
Everyone who wants to attempt an everest summit should watch this video before hand. They should understand the very serious risks and when to turn back! The summit is not a success unless you can make it all the way back.
@eimhin2441
@eimhin2441 3 жыл бұрын
Inexperienced climbers with more money than sense, trying to chase bragging rights and clout, seems like the majority of summiters these past few years, they could not do it without a team of sherpas basically holding their hands the whole way up, so no they won't be watching this video, as much as I'd like that.
@Atti19216
@Atti19216 3 жыл бұрын
My husband spent 8 years in the army infantry and saved all of his deployment money to go to everest next year. He has climbed mt rainier 5 times with a man who owns a guide company and has climbed everest but he says he has a lot to learn.
@darksoul479
@darksoul479 3 жыл бұрын
Good luck to him.
@pigalleycatemanresu7321
@pigalleycatemanresu7321 3 жыл бұрын
Everest is more than twice as high as Ranier! Also, like the other Cascade peaks, it is volcanic and not nearly as steep as the Alps or the Himalayas. I hope your husband realizes his dreams.
@jameseastwood4984
@jameseastwood4984 3 жыл бұрын
Check your life insurance.
@jeffelfont6887
@jeffelfont6887 3 жыл бұрын
Your husband should get more experience, Mexico volcanoes, Denali, Aconcagua, try and easier 8000 peak, Cho Oyu.
@Atti19216
@Atti19216 3 жыл бұрын
@@jeffelfont6887 he is aware but we are not rich it has taken 8 years to do this. May not be the best situation but if he listens to the people around him that have done this before it might be alright. He is not brain surgeon but dumber people have been successful at it. He would do what you said we just dont have the money. So I guess now we will be told how he is the idiot thats going to get a sherpa killed or something. He did all he could do within our means.
@alisamadoo4024
@alisamadoo4024 3 жыл бұрын
The Sherpas are the real heroes. When you talk about exhaustion and summit fever it is supported by the fact that 80% of fatalities happen on the way down. In the Death Zone if you cannot walk it is impossible to get back down because of the more technical climbing that high. You have to be able to lower yourself.
@rtcommodore9354
@rtcommodore9354 3 жыл бұрын
Great wisdom regarding turning around, Alan. There is no reason to summit; you will not be the first or tenth or hundredth. Someone else did that long ago. You can see wonderful views well below the death zone. Enjoy the beauty without endangering yourself and other people.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Agree
@quil10it
@quil10it 3 жыл бұрын
very smart advice...
@kevinbrooks1104
@kevinbrooks1104 3 жыл бұрын
I sincerely think at least for me is you get your mind on a single mode and it's really hard to turn around. Then the fact that it harder going down died on decent .
@piscator57
@piscator57 3 жыл бұрын
Messner was a beast....
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
+1
@Longtack55
@Longtack55 3 жыл бұрын
Ueli Steck was beastier. Climb alone if you wish. Some people you should not climb with. Our dear Lydia Bradey summited Chomolungma/Sagamatha without supplemental O2 and her pals denied it. They are all dead now apart from Lydia.
@lillianroiyholst4451
@lillianroiyholst4451 3 жыл бұрын
Tank you
@nicksangetta8874
@nicksangetta8874 3 жыл бұрын
Im actually surprised there have only been 304! I thought there would be more considering how many people try and how dangerous it is.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah, it's safer than the mainstream press makes it to be. 100 deaths in the Alps equals 1 death on Everest in their eyes.
@fcbarniessoccer8952
@fcbarniessoccer8952 3 жыл бұрын
I don’t get it. The risk is absurd. Sure there is only 1-3 deaths a year, but that from a pool of what 600-800 Sherpas and Climbers. Let’s all drive 90mph on the high way without seat belts.
@angel555b
@angel555b 3 жыл бұрын
About 800 people attempt it and 1% of them die. Those are not good odds. Especially, when compared to successful summits, where there is an average of 1 death per every 6 summits.
@jackmomma7481
@jackmomma7481 3 жыл бұрын
@@angel555b actually, 1 percent sounds like a very low number to me. What is a high number is , and this pertains to combat operations. It is said that on average, 70 percent casualties for each single objective to be seized in and secured in war is "acceptable loss" and is considered a success... now, imagine being part of of something like that with those figures in mind
@wyomingadventures
@wyomingadventures 3 жыл бұрын
I have been watching Everest before 1996 incident. My brother and I had saved money to climb it but unfortunately I had a ruptured brain aneurysm just before we were to leave for the climb. So that's the end to my high climbing. I still climb but keep it under 20,000ft. I live at a mile high and no problem with it but not going to risk anything to high. I think Russell Brice runs a great company.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Sorry about the aneurysm but good on ya for staying in the game!!
@PianoScoreVids
@PianoScoreVids 3 жыл бұрын
highly informative especially because of the personal experience. however i read that Lukas Furtenbach also stopped the expedition due to covid and 'parties' at base camp. so it seems to be a bigger thing maybe... edit, i saw this is the main topic for the most recent video!
@PianoScoreVids
@PianoScoreVids 3 жыл бұрын
10:35 reminds me a lot of Doug Hansen actually
@cheekychicka
@cheekychicka 3 жыл бұрын
How does the saying go.... climbing Everest is optional, getting back down is mandatory. My thoughts are with the families who have lost their loved ones. Many thanks Alan for the update. I have a question you may be able to answer. Technically, is the trip down more treacherous that the trip up? I know people are very tired and probably on a hiker’s high from summiting but I would imagine that it’s a who,e new sets of body move,ent, climbing and being a bit bent over, going down the weight needs to be shifted to the back. I hope I a, making sense. In any case, awesome video and many thanks for posting.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Spot on Cheeky. When you summit (and I speak from experience) you are on a huge high and also exhausted your adrenaline, motivation and energy. It takes concentration and motivation to get down and not make a mistake. You are correct that you use different muscle groups descending that's why best practice is to train both uphill AND downhill.
@bonniewright8436
@bonniewright8436 3 жыл бұрын
Thoughts and prayers for family and friends. RIP climbers
@rosemaryjones4904
@rosemaryjones4904 3 жыл бұрын
Excellent guide to the various illnesses ppl might die from being at 7000m + on mountains. Will tweet the link. Tim Gluckman
@Pilkie101
@Pilkie101 3 жыл бұрын
I just read your reddit ama on climbing k2, very interesting.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Good questions from the community.
@GC-sz7cv
@GC-sz7cv 3 жыл бұрын
Sherpas 💯
@pollypockets508
@pollypockets508 3 жыл бұрын
You're really cool!
@WombatNL
@WombatNL 3 жыл бұрын
Very sad abouth the 2 deaths. My condolences to their families and friends. Ive been following the mountain scene for nearly 2 years and love to watch your blogs. Thanks for that. In my opinion they are too many guides tours to climb everest with a lack of experience on high mountains. Deaths on this beautiful mountain isnot always avoidable but now I see groups only touch camp 3 before their summit bid? Should have spend at least 1 night up there ans touch the yellow band before going up higher after. If you dont have the budget to spend more time please climb another nice 8000er and think about everest later. How can you try to climb everest early may if you just arrivied mid april? I also think the amount of sleep should be monitored at high camps. You shouldnt do a summit bit if your over excited due the lack of experience with just 2 hours of sleep the night before at camp 3 before your going up any higher. Summiting aconcagua before everest isnt enought if your on a 30-40k budget. Please summit cho oyu, manaslu or gasherbrum II first and think about everest later my 2 cents.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
I tend to agree that an 800er before Everest reveals a lot. That said, I got to 8000-meters on Cho Oyu before I tried Everest, and still didn't make it on my first try.
@genekelly8467
@genekelly8467 3 жыл бұрын
Climbing Everest resembles other dangerous activities, particularly diving to the wreck of the Andrea Doria-costs a fortune, very dangerous, and your "prize" is a piece of the ship's china ware. I just don't understand the obsession. You achieve something, but risk your life., and if you dies its a pretty horrible way to go.
@SomeYouTubeGuy
@SomeYouTubeGuy 3 жыл бұрын
Hey Alan, queuing on the mountain is a huge problem as we all know but as a quick google search shows there are many routes to the summit. Why do the expeditions always focus on that one route when they know what the problems are going to be?
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
The other routes are extremely technical and dangerous. 99.999% of all the people who climb Everest today couldn't climb those routes and guides won't take the risk.
@markpenfield5314
@markpenfield5314 3 жыл бұрын
I am kind of with him. the No O for most climbers seems silly, I say this after watching Adrian Bollinger no O summit. P.S. i am listening to Doug Scotts biography right now, and I do get the urge to no O it
@thesketchydude1315
@thesketchydude1315 3 жыл бұрын
I know this is a VERY odd and semi-unrelated question but...are there any people known alive still who had summited the south side between 1980 and 1988? (I am trying to figure out something admittedly rather morbid, how many people encountered the "German Woman" (Hannelore Schmatz who passed in 1979) on the SE Ridge? so far the only reports I found were by Chris Kopcjynski in 1981, Laurie Skreslet in 1982, and both Chris Bonington and Arne Næss jr. in 1985, and then no reports appear after 1985 in English)
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Download the Himalayan Database and search for those years on Everest. I think you will find a lot to track down
@thesketchydude1315
@thesketchydude1315 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs I had but sadly there wasn't too much there, well at least any that I had access to, I did find one interesting thing of note which was a passing mention from a Japanese Expedition in 1982
@barbaral743
@barbaral743 3 жыл бұрын
I read her body was eventually blown down the Kangshung face
@thesketchydude1315
@thesketchydude1315 3 жыл бұрын
@@barbaral743 oh it most likely was (it was in the main route so I'd expect there to be at least some mention of it post 1980s but there is quite literally nothing after that)
@kevinbrooks1104
@kevinbrooks1104 3 жыл бұрын
With 350 more summit attempts I hope for no death news but will not be surprised to hear about a few more its a sad fact.
@asasial1977
@asasial1977 3 жыл бұрын
Snow blindness is similar to welders burn, your eye is sunburned, flash from welders, or reflecting UV off the snow. I’ve had welders burn, it is very painful. Was never blinded but you can barely open your eyes and everything is blurry when you do, I’m sure in a snow covered environment all you would see is white with some blurry colors representing people if they were burned bad enough. Feels more like hot salt in your eyes than needles.
@markmnorcal
@markmnorcal 3 жыл бұрын
Any K2 news? Some climbers think that fighting through all those symptoms you feel is how you get to the summit.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Not that that I'm aware of. Link?
@desertgirl6511
@desertgirl6511 3 жыл бұрын
Why do most of the deaths always seem to come from the same team? Is that only because that team always brings so many people and you know, it’s just the odds? Or is there some negligence happening there? My apologies if I’m thinking of the wrong team.
@fibretowne
@fibretowne 3 жыл бұрын
Not sure that is a true statement: check this wikipedia link en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_people_who_died_climbing_Mount_Everest
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Lot's of comments possible here, but I'll try to put together a blog post that reviews deaths by operator. The bottom line however, is that deaths occur with all operators from low-end to luxury. Sometimes it's simply what happens on the mountain, other times, it "feels" preventable. In the latter case, it often comes down to the experience of the climber, and their "guide." But yes, we are seeing a disturbing trend.
@desertgirl6511
@desertgirl6511 3 жыл бұрын
But if there is one team that seems to take more of the inexperienced, and in higher numbers, they would be more likely to see more deaths? Anyways, thank you and I can’t wait to read what you write next
@desertgirl6511
@desertgirl6511 3 жыл бұрын
Pemba Tashi Sherpa 💔
@smitajky
@smitajky 3 жыл бұрын
I had the HAPE at a much lower altitude. It was in mid winter though. Very cold and dry air. That managed to "burn" the lungs. I took the drugs to get through that night and then went down. There were two climbs on the way back down and with the lungs not working well they had to be taken very slowly. If I tried to speed up at all everything descended into uncontrollable coughing for some minutes. After that I figure that I won't take risks like that again.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Gad you got down.
@joannasarcamedes8191
@joannasarcamedes8191 3 жыл бұрын
does anyone have a guestimate of how many bodies are still on Everest?
@darksoul479
@darksoul479 3 жыл бұрын
May they rest in peace.
@thedogoftears
@thedogoftears 3 жыл бұрын
hey now-- killian jornet did *TWO* unsupported summits in a week!
@Foxyfreedom
@Foxyfreedom 3 жыл бұрын
That guy ain’t human though
@fake11end
@fake11end 3 жыл бұрын
"Allegedly"
@thedogoftears
@thedogoftears 3 жыл бұрын
@@fake11end killian has no reason to make this stuff up, considering how accomplished his resume already is. it's sad that there is controversy surrounding his everest FKT-- but he's heard the noise and is trying to do it again. unfortunately didn't make it to the top this season-- info on IG.
@fake11end
@fake11end 3 жыл бұрын
@@thedogoftears Ofc he has reasons to make it up, to deny the fact is dellusion. What I find funny is, despite neither of his summits being accepted by the Himalayan database, and multiple facts dissproving these ascents, multiple article celebrating these ascents come out each year (often by his partners). Amd no, he is not trying to do this again, he said he will try the Lhotse-Everest traverse.
@thedogoftears
@thedogoftears 3 жыл бұрын
@@fake11end what honestly makes you think he would lie about such a thing? climbing everest unsupported fits right in with his resume. do you think he made up crossing the pyrenees or climbing kili in under 6 hours? it is extremely difficult to "prove" an everest summit to the himalayan database when you have no witnesses and got there at night. i think if he had failed, he would have described in great detail how he failed.
@dlvox5222
@dlvox5222 3 жыл бұрын
Having a high red blood cell count helps because it is the O2 carrier. This is why Armstrong and teams blood doped. Testosterone Replacement Therapy (TRT) is a alternative to raise red blood cell counts and allows one to train harder pre climb and recover quickly. (Not medical advice).
@gloriawelch3603
@gloriawelch3603 3 жыл бұрын
Omg.
@johnbell6114
@johnbell6114 3 жыл бұрын
Just mask up and social distance, as best you can, for covid issues. Regarding exhaustion death, I wonder if they're acclimating enough? Summit at all costs is a serious mistake. That mountain has been the death site of many experienced mountaineers, bad decisions have bad results.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
could be acclimatization issues in some case, but overall it seems to be a matter of pushing too far past their physical limits.
@humdingerdog6523
@humdingerdog6523 3 жыл бұрын
Summit fever ha well I and my 16 yr old grandson got that in Mt Katahdin. Maine our first hike no experience summited a 4:30 pm to late keep in mind we’re Floridians no mountains here so we started back down the Abol trail actually bouldering down and night crept up on us so I made the decision to find a crevasse and spent the night my grandson wanted to keep going in the dark I said no if we break a leg in those boulders we’re really in trouble now I did not think it would get cold in August anywhere man it was cold up in that mountain and windy Around 38 or so I hugged him for body heat and around 6:00am we started bouldering back down finally about 1.5 miles from the trail head we meet a volunteer rescue team they sent for us and gave us fluids and protein bars and walked with us the rest of the way the RANGER was waiting for us I said well here comes a fine but he said look not bouldering at night was a good decision starting late was a bad decision and I know that you probably won’t come back to climb Katahdin so just take it as a lesson and you know what I’ve climbed Mt Washington and the Virginia triple crown since then and had no issues now Everest is definitely a no no for me
@Brisk317
@Brisk317 3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Very informative. All this talk about the death zone above 26,000 feet...no way I’m crossing a ladder over a crevasse in The Khumba Icefall. I’ll stick to playing the video game “Insurmountable” on my computer. Check it out Alan.
@GerdLinden
@GerdLinden 3 жыл бұрын
Using O2 is like using cloth. Is it cheating? Yes, it is. But it´s very usefull.
@brianlewis4415
@brianlewis4415 3 жыл бұрын
Sadly summit fever becomes apparent in many the moment people part with $100k+ to indulge in high altitude tourism. The attraction to scale an 8k mtr peak by unbelievably over subscribed route is overwhelmingly always Everest simply because it's the highest which seems to appeal to ego above mountaineering prowess. The number of deaths speak volumes, the lessons rarely leaned. Impoverished Nepal will continue to issue permits to those with clearly more money than ability or recognition of luck and Physiology. A cautionary account Alan. Just hope some folk take notice, though I suspect history will repeat itself
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comment Brian. Everest, statistically is second only Cho Oyu for lowest death rate. The median price paid for an Everest climb this year was around $45K.
@brianlewis4415
@brianlewis4415 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs Ha ha. Many thanks for the stats Alan. I'm sure there's a lot to be compared between costs and fatalities relative to all 14 8000mtr. My observation is simply.. you pays yer money, you takes your chances. Expectations just seem related to what people buy into...regardless. I'm sure the ambition will prevail, even in a pandemic regardless.. Good luck to all those who buy into it. Many thanks for your posts and analysis.
@JerseyLynne
@JerseyLynne 3 жыл бұрын
Why would you not show the number of subscribers or post likes and dislikes? I always wonder why a few creators choose not to, This is the first time I ask. If there are many subscribers, I may look at the channel closer. If there are more than 10% dislikes, I know it's probably clickbait or the sound is bad. But why you don't show it, I can't tell. I never subscribe to channels that don't show this. I guess it's my way of saying, "What's up with that?
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Nothing nefarious Lynne. I hadn't noticed
@JerseyLynne
@JerseyLynne 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs That's funny! Thanks for responding! This is sort of like a parable of sorts. How easy it is to misunderstand one another, and the importance of communication... how just a little bit more information can cause a huge paradigm shift instantly and effortlessly!
@JerseyLynne
@JerseyLynne 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs I really enjoyed your presentation. When I see a good program I will "feed the algorithm" not only by liking but by liking comments and posting a comment as well as reply to comments. I love Mount Everest so much I know all the big stories and all of the base camps and have virtually climbed it more than once on a video posted that takes you up both trails via Google Earth.
@ronjonchef2045
@ronjonchef2045 3 жыл бұрын
Love your video, tired of that production documentaries with dramatic music. One point though, 56% of deaths without oxygen means that using or not using it makes no difference. Almost the same chance. And I am talking strictly from the maths point of view. As much as I understand it.
@carawestgate
@carawestgate 3 жыл бұрын
We don't have all of the information we need. It really depends on how many people went with oxygen vs how many didn't. If just 10% of all climbers don't use oxygen and they make up 56% of deaths.. it's probably not a good idea to go without oxygen. If 50% of climbers don't use oxygen it's a different story.
@ronjonchef2045
@ronjonchef2045 3 жыл бұрын
@@carawestgate fair point
@jameseastwood4984
@jameseastwood4984 3 жыл бұрын
Alan gave us the 'summiting without oxygen' statistic which was 3% (listen at 14:50). If we assume this is close to the % of 'climbers attempting the summit without Oxygen'. Then you are 40 times (i.e. 4000%) more likely to die if not using Oxygen. (Maths is 56/3/45x97).
@lisaschuster9187
@lisaschuster9187 3 жыл бұрын
Real men turn around.
@intertvonline1917
@intertvonline1917 3 жыл бұрын
Anatoly in 1996 could and did many saved life because he didn't use subliminal oxygen
@cooleyballs1
@cooleyballs1 3 жыл бұрын
Leave Everest to people like Messner..
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
LOL, That was in 1980, 41 years ago ... I think even Mr. Messner would say there's a window for others to follow their dreams.
@cooleyballs1
@cooleyballs1 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs lol.. I know... There is just too many ill prepared dreamers out there with more money and ego then sence... Love the channel BTW... What a total beast Messner was.. The speed and freedom at which he climbed. Power of the mind.. ❤️
@Dovietail
@Dovietail 3 жыл бұрын
I bet the vast majority of AMS deaths have been in the last 25 to 30 years.
@tonymankey520
@tonymankey520 3 жыл бұрын
Thoughts and prays to all who have died. Let’s hope for a death free year soon
@cadrat1962
@cadrat1962 3 жыл бұрын
OK..I'm going to ask the the question........ I've watched so many videos and I've always wondered ............... Bodily functions.........when your in -40deg , full down suite and above say 26 000 ft....... How do climbers "go to the bathroom"? I know they have pee bottles but what about # 2's.
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Hey Ted, somebody had to ask! Lot's of strategies from peeing in your suit (not recommended), wear diapers, take a pill to plug you up, etc. But the real answer is you are basically dehydrated so there's not mush to let go.
@cadrat1962
@cadrat1962 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs ..thanks Alan... But what if you have to have a crap? .. I mean this could be really bad timing.
@alisamadoo4024
@alisamadoo4024 3 жыл бұрын
Dehydration can give you constipation. I wondered about your question also. From all of my reading people just either go in their suits or drop it wherever they are. Everest is covered with human excrement. Ugh.
@dlvox5222
@dlvox5222 3 жыл бұрын
And hypoxia. Clouds judgement
@lisaschuster9187
@lisaschuster9187 3 жыл бұрын
The Chinese are so clever.
@iainsanders4775
@iainsanders4775 3 жыл бұрын
Izzat PINK?
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
Itiz!
@joannasarcamedes8191
@joannasarcamedes8191 3 жыл бұрын
isnt there a woman mountain climber with the last name Arnett?
@spellerlittlewing
@spellerlittlewing 3 жыл бұрын
A lot of these are inexperienced and their too many at one time going up This is all for money now A damn shame
@r.minnis9722
@r.minnis9722 3 жыл бұрын
lol only china and democrat voters would talk about covid on top or Everest
@AlanArnetteClimbs
@AlanArnetteClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
I don't think COVID on the summit will be discussed at the next DNC :)
@starman10548
@starman10548 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs HAHAHAHA
@PuffKitty
@PuffKitty 3 жыл бұрын
@@AlanArnetteClimbs 😸
@geraint8989
@geraint8989 3 жыл бұрын
The chances of catching a disease on the summit are not the point. Any climber entering the country to expend the tremendous resources of a summit bid will inevitably create thousands of additional human-human interactions. So it's probably that bit. Even China, unlike some in the US, were not ignorant enough to politicise a scientific numbers game ("I shall not wear a mask because I don't understand much") and therefore literally kill many people.
@Number-oo8xq
@Number-oo8xq 3 жыл бұрын
It's about time I was afraid no one was reporting deaths. Hope covid takes over the mountain.
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