Every Stanley Bench Plane Explained (Once and for all!)

Understand the whole line of Stanley bench planes; all ELEVEN of them.
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[@clatechilders856]

How I chose which planes to buy? Whichever one I stumbled across at a yard sale or auction😄

[@TimRoyalPastortim]

Yep! 😀 that worked out to a 4 and a 5! 😆 lol

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

I know, Right!? But Rex! What of the other 598 planes in the collection!? What of the Rabbits and Shoulders, the Bullnoses and Fillets, the hardboard, matching, trim and roundover planes!?

[@OABrown]

accurate!

[@billbicskei7882]

Rex, I love what you're doing! Keep it up! How about building some kind of caddy/plane holder. Now that I'm getting the tools I need some where to store them. Thanks from Alaska.

[@cfrandom]

I've not quite started woodworking - still in the initial tool accumulation phase - and this past weekend at an estate sale, I picked up a what I thought was just a nice size Stanley in excellent shape for $18. After I bought it, I wiped off the dust to find out that it's a No. 5. Now I just have to learn how to use the sucker ...

[@jmluisdeoliveiramore]

We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives kzbin.infoUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.

[@gdasailor4634]

Well Rex, As a young man in the boat shop I spent hundreds of hours with a plane in my hands. Here are a few thoughts: The #3 was very popular with boat builders because it is very light, you can use it all day without fatigue, and it will follow a sawn winding curve (rolling bevel on the edge of a shaped plank) without altering it's shape, just smooth out the saw marks down to the line. The #4 or 4 1/2 will not do that. Or, if you open the throat and fit a more cambered blade you have a scrub plane for planing wet rough wood, maybe hot straight from the steam box - another shipwright problem solved. The #4 1/2 was most popular with the joiners for smoothing hardwood, especially the #4 1/2 C - yes the weight is important for shooting through knots as well.. The #5 1/4 was popular with shipwrights because it is lighter and easier to carry around the shipyard or marina - tool boxes get very heavy very quickly! My carry around plane was a wooden jack with a "technical" handle - reduced thickness of the plane body behind the blade box to put the grip lower to the wood, which makes and the plane lighter and is more ergonomic - shipwrights do a lot of planing! I disagree with your characterisation of the #6. It is called a fore plane because it would be used before a jointer, never a smaller plane. I would finish a panel or door flat and shiny with my grand father's #6, and never go back to the #4 or 4 1/2. And yes, Stanley called the #7 a "trying" plane - to "try" out an edge before using the full sized #8 "door" jointer. In a modern shop, there really is no need for anything longer than the #6 or 5 1 /2 if you have one, however in nearly 50 years I have never met a tradesman who used a 5 1/2. Corrugated soles are useful for waxy or wet wood because they break the suction. I have often heard it said that they reduce friction, which is not technically true - friction is dependant on the contact force and nature of the 2 surfaces, but independent of the area in contact (grade 11 physics). However, C soles are not a good choice for narrow stock, such as the edge of 1/4 ply or plastic laminate, because the grooves can catch on the stock and pull the plane off line or damage the work. Cheers! GDA

[@738polarbear]

Clearly you are a very very experienced woodworker ,however I am too and I have my favourite 5 1/2 jack because my hands are a wee bit small. for a 6.Your explanation and points are SPOT ON though.I suspect your level of knowledge a tad beyond most people here. Alright a bit more than a tad.

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thank you for sharing your professional experience with planes. It is really helpful.

[@stevecollins9450]

Thanks so much for the added knowledge, GDA. I have also never found a need to use anything longer than my #6 when building furniture.

[@aumann0452]

If you like the Nr.4 because it's light and follows curves, you might want to take a look at a european style wooden plane, those are like 150 grams lighter than the metal ones, which is really noticeable after a day of work. There is one made by the Ulmia Brand which is top quality and has an adjusting wheel, I know a couple of people who would prefer it to a Stanley

[@ness-ee]

Yeh why would someone go from a 6 or 7 back down to a 4? I never understood that. It’s not like the 4 will enhance the finish already left by the longer plane.

[@StripeyType]

Hooray, Stella! Thank you for sharing that wonderful drawing! And thank you Rex, too. ;)

[@starskiify]

I worked as a patternmaker at a UK foundry in the 70s they cast 100s of Stanley planes every week, I always wondered where they all went. Ps if you take your planes apart and they are stamped with a CF or Q these were cast at Crane foundry or Quacast.

[@pmcgee003]

Did those have the 'ENGLAND' lettering on the heel?

[@PeteLewisWoodwork]

I've just bought Stanley 4 and 4&half on eBay, so when they arrive, I'll check for the stampings.

[@henryskinner1092]

Rex, I learn something from you every time I watch your videos. Keep figuring it out. You are the man. And yes I am a newbie woodworker. My wife said I needed something to do after 45 safe years cross country driving. Thank you and God Bless. Be careful, stay safe.

[@zacdredge3859]

14:45 Stella job Little Miss Krueger. Thanks for lending your dad and drawing skills. Oh and I guess you did fine Rex; made this whole plane business as easy as 4, 5, 6. Hahaha!

[@oliverdelica2289]

Heck yeah! Another plane video! Also nice thumbnail!

[@corncobjohnsonreal]

This is such a good topic to cover that I can't believe I haven't seen anyone do it before. It's kinda genius

[@dpgt3478]

Lmao beside the other 1M videos on it hahaha

[@twh7011]

Wood by wright covers this topic. Many times over. I liked this video too.

[@leuanye]

Where did you find all those planes with Stanley spelled backwards? Those must be very rare and expensive.

[@zachgodfrey8147]

It’s just from the picture

[@leuanye]

@@zachgodfrey8147 No wonder, I thought the part in his hair looked backwards.

[@apinakapinastorba]

leuanye so smart

[@gateway1600]

This video shows size of timber can be worked with hand plan Cutting and Fitting a Keel Timber Scarph Joint - Rebuilding Tally Ho EP14.PART2.

[@hopelesslydull7588]

@@zachgodfrey8147 r/woosh

[@mytinyworkshop1213]

Thanks for such an informative video.

[@ernie5229]

Craftspeople? You mean craftsman? Here the "man" does not refer to a male, it is short for hu"man". Craftspeople is unnecessary.

[@DanielWorkshop]

I have discovered you when you made the movie with Uri and since then I am enjoying your movies. I love your movies and your energy. I only have a 4 1/2. :)

[@jriggan]

In process on restoring a fully adjustable #4 that was in my grandpa’s toolbox, using your videos as a guide. Thanks Rex!

[@KuntaKinteToby]

How'd it go? I recently did the same with my grandfather's, planes like butter

[@thysbasson1786]

It's my birthday, and I wants it...😂 When I started out with woodworking I didn't realise the versatility and usefulness of hand tools, I just wanted to use the machines for everything. And while I still love machinery, I've fallen in love with hand planes and chisels etc. I never realised how much time and money a properly setup hand plane could save you. My power tools will also last longer now since I don't "abuse" them so much like I used to...for example by expecting a sander to make a board flat, and sanding and sanding and just never getting there 😢😂

[@mfrutchey]

Awesome info. I’m just getting started in woodworking, and really enjoy watching your videos. You should GL frame Stella’s picture and put it up in your shop. A bit of personal character on the walls would look nice…and maybe entice Stella to take up the craft herself!

[@maplobats]

I'll bet I'm not the only one who doesn't want to be saved from ending up with a bunch of planes we don't need... For some of us, that is the goal. And Stella's picture was brilliant!

[@seandwyer2020]

We all suffer from this affliction and we all end up suffering because of it. I have four joiner planes. A number seven and then some wooden planes of rather enormous size, one of which I made. Lovely as they are, they take up space on my plane shelf which might be better served if I traded them for a number six or number four.

[@kent5400]

I've gone down the path of buying more planes than I need and it's not all bad. Now that I have a few singles of other sizes and several 3s, 4s and 5s from different makers and lines (Bailey, Handyman, clones) and have had a chance to use them all I now know which ones I prefer and why. The hard part is getting rid of the ones that I no longer use. It seems that the tool door on the shop is a one-way door. :-D

[@namAehT]

Since he didn't link the #6 in the description... kzbin.info/www/bejne/amechoqse6iNj5Y

[@FireByTrial1]

trying to find a decent plane to get started and this is perfect for me, thanks Rex! now I just need to find some to get started. slowly working through the woodworking for humans

[@ncpigpen]

Great Video as always. The only thing that I would add to this kit is a block plane of some kind. I love my 60 1/2!

[@sachalyall8243]

I still have my great great grandfathers toolbox. It contains an incredible 13 planes.

[@CamQTR]

My experience may be helpful to anyone who is beginning to make violins. At first, I used a Stanley number 8 for jointing the plates. It was heavy and clumsy, difficult to keep it from tipping to one side. Now I use a number 6, it is much better for the task. Much easier to use.

[@TABRO284]

I have a brand new 1960's 110 in a box with the paper wrapping

[@LaurieSavage]

Recently I bought a new No 4 Stanley Bench Plane. The sides aren't square to the bottom so I can't use it on a shooting board. I didn't even know that was a thing when I bought it, so beware, take a tri-square with you when you buy a plane. Apart from that it worked very well once I found out I had to sharpen it. Thanks for the videos Rex. I'm finally taking the plunge with hand tools.

[@BensWorkshop]

Like the drawing, well done Stella! I like the adjustability of the metal planes but there is something magical about a long wooden plane, particularly with a Marples blade.

[@JackCliffordWilliams]

Damn! That was a really interesting video and then you throw in the dedication! I'm tearing up Rex! 🥰

[@lilly5758]

Just picked up my first Stanley plane at an estate sale for $10. I'm hooked!!

[@steamr0ll]

Great video Rex, this can be a very intimidating subject for the beginner. A few years ago someone I knew was THROWING OUT a rusty old #6. I picked it up and knew right away that the old girl had life left in her, did some research and dated it at almost 100 years old! I watched the Paul Sellers video on restoring the bench plane and decided it would be a fun project and the first time I took a shaving with it I was hooked. That tool is as good today as the day it was made. Since then I have found (for free because they were roached) another #6, a #7 and a #4 and restored them all to working order. I also recently bought a Taytools #5 1/2 which is actually the first one I reach for most of the time and if I am just knocking something out it might be the only one I use. Keep up the great content and thanks for commenting on my turning saw in Instagram!

[@vinade2100]

Everytime you picked up that red no 5 and said its name I felt like you were telling me to get one. To clear it out my name is Viktor! Well eventually I will have any plane some day, so you were heard haha!

[@mikeriv9229]

I started woodworking last year and only had a no. 5 and it really was all I needed to get started and do lots of quality work

[@rogerhodges9721]

Good video. FYI people who are interested in plane facts and details; the Bible about Stanley planes is "patrick's blood and gore." Search those words and you will get the link. The knowledgeable author discusses and shows every Stanley and Bailey plane from #1 to #196. BTW in addition to being accurate and detailed, it is sarcastic and witty in places.

[@joec6188]

Stella is SOOOOO Precious!!!!

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

Very interesting! I'm a n00b to woodworking... only had a "new" bailey #4, but wanted a 2nd longer plane for jointing, flattening, truing, etc. Found a pretty mint series15 #6 yesterday and bought it! Good price, esp for its' condition... waay cheaper than even a rusty #5-1/2! I was contemplating very hard bn a #5 and #6 (to pair with my #4)... but was worried a #5 would be too similar to the #4, and I'd maybe just use that all the time and never the #4 anymore. So, I think a #6 is a better difference... #4 for smoothing and general work, and a #6 for jointing, truing and flattening. It's kinda like camera prime lenses... you usually skip the next focal length, or double it... to minimize your kit weight, size and/or cost. eg: if I had a common 50mm lens (#4 plane), then another typical 35mm lens (#5 plane) is kinda similar.... so, I got a 24mm (#6) instead! Also, a 24mm is kinda similar to a 35mm too (I could always just easily crop the 24mm pic to get a 35mm fov). ...a nice "gap" in your minimal kit of lenses (or planes), while still being most versatile. Also, #6 is like half the cost of a rare #5-1/2 (esp one that's not completely rusted), and a 1/3 the price of a #7! #6 is a wonderful thing! Not to mention it also has a wider blade than my #4 (same as a #5-1/2).

[@MightyCricket]

Hiii , is there any hand plane with round bottom , ?

[@petergray6055]

“It wouldn’t be unreasonable to own two of them...I do”. Rex you own more planes than Boeing! Excellent video, most informative. My planes are Records from Sheffield, else ones I’ve made myself, nevertheless this was most useful, thank you.

[@RexKrueger]

Well said!

[@knaptonmawson]

Hi, I am an English Joiner, Apprentaship 1980, almoast the last of the true apprentiship era in England. I enjoy watching as you are pretty much on the mark with your advice in many videos. I now live in Germany and they have know idea about metal planes, I have introdused my colleges to the planes and Inches but it won´t catch on any time soon.

[@unclemonkey4699]

Got the number 4 and 7 in good shape. My only advice is to check for cracks on the mouth and sides. Make sure that they are complete. I wasn't really price shopping, but feel good at roughly $200 for the pair. Decent chunck of that was shipping the #7. I can see a 5 in my future.

[@trudi1962]

Hi Rex, I just bought a type 19, no. 4 at our local market (Adelaide, Australia). Just like a kid with a new toy I rushed home, looked up the vintage, then came to you for advice. I'm thrilled to find that I wasn't ripped off. Looking forward to painstakingly restoring it. Also have fond memories of my preschool age son doing exactly the same as your Stella. Ahh sigh... (he's nearly 30 now) .

[@apinakapinastorba]

My favorite plane is the number 6. I set it up for fine cut, and use it for jointing and panel smiothing alike. Of course 4 too. The 3 i don’t use almost ever.

[@ikust007]

Low angle planes: Rex. I don’t have one . But why not only have those kind of planes ? I don’t see why it couldn’t replace a standard #4 and all the other ones .

[@Control-Freak]

Great video! I had to go buy each, or multiples of, from 3 to 8. They look great in the plane till I made for them but like you came to realize that the only planes I use are block, 4, 5, 7 and a low angle jack(veritas). I work out of a small shop and it is a battle to keep free space in a 10' x 16' footprint. I plan on making a killer wall cabinet and need to "thin the herd". My plan is to get a LN 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and 7 and sell the rest. This way I can fit them in the cabinet and condense my planes, marking tools, chisels etc. in one place. This will allow me to get rid of other tills and storage. It is an ongoing process.

[@wayneprice6918]

If you don't have a jointer, then start with a number 7C. Then a nice number 5C, and a 3C. Then a low angle block plane, a good iron rabbet plane with a fence. Next a Stanley 140 skew angle block plane and a nice stanley 4 1/2 C. Then buy a really good set of socket chisels. 1/8 to 1 1/2. If you can find a stanley 289 with a blade and fence. But it. Best money i ever spent. Try auctions and estate sales. Bargains can be found. Best jointer I ever bought was at an auction for $35. It was a Sargent VBM circa 1915. I have 3 stanley no 7"s and two stanley no. 8's The Sargent is so much better.

[@RevPirateDan]

I found my grandfather's or possibly great-grandfather's old Stanley 5¼. A buddy that I play D&D with is a professional carpenter/woodworker and sent me a link to a site where you can identify old Stanleys. Turns out it's a type 13, from 1925-1928. The thing was in very bad shape all the way around. But I was able to restore it and it looks old, but cared-for now. I did have to get my buddy to grind the iron, it was badly chipped, with one notch nearly 1/16 of an inch deep. But I did all the rest myself!

[@AlexEllis]

I'm looking at your workbench and it looks just like mine. There's a reason for that ;-)

[@gordonkennygordon]

Thank you, Stella! (I actually teared up a little at the end) Love the positive energy in the Krueger house! Peace :)

[@asdf11985]

Hi Rex; Not knowing too much about planes, I got myself a Stanley G12-1204 off of ebay. at least i think it's a G12-1204, from what I can tell it's the closest model. Burgundy sole, plastic tote and knob, made in England. What are you thoughts about this type of Plane. For that matter, I see a lot of Handyman line planes. what are you thoughts about those too?

[@dfens1987]

lmao, say Hi to Stella for me :)

[@orbodman]

I've only just realized of all the planes I own I don't have a no5. But I love the 6 and use it for shooting. I sold a LN mitre plane as the 6 did much the same and the LN 9 was worth just too much too keep. I use a very old wooden razee plane for a scrub plane, as it weighs nothing and hogs off timber all day long. I have 10 1/2 for smoothing and rebates and a "3 dates" 1910 (the absolute best Era Stanley) no7 for jointing. I agree that's all you need. The rest are handy when required and nice to look at.

[@keithrosenberg5486]

Very Nice video. My one really decent plane is a Bailey 5-1/2 (some brass parts, fluted bottom, 15" long and 2-3/4 inches wide) that I found for sale at a church rummage sale for almost nothing. I think it was made before WWII. It is excellent if a bit big. Question: Sanding blocks. I have tried a number of commercial ones and none are adequate. Odd size of paper, does not hold paper well, hard to put paper on and hard to hold on to are the biggest complaints. I want to make a couple but do not want to endlessly experiment spending lots of time trying to find a decent design. Thanks!

[@lajohnson1ly]

Okay, next, rabbet/shoulder/bullnose/chisel and various permutations. Or can you do everything with a well-tuned No. 78 and a sharp paring chisel?

[@RobertParker-v7v]

The No. 6 is by far my favourite plane. I really don't like the extra bulk of the 7 or 8. Learn to use a straight edge to check for straightness, and you really won't miss the length/weight unless you do a lot of big pieces.

[@Drixie6]

I haven’t found much on Stanley IMPERFECT stamped planes, I know it’s like a blem. I have one with the box #4. Are these more of a rarity?

[@NordboDK]

Plane story: a few years ago I was at my father-in-law's shop and as I am leaving he tells me "Take that blue piece of shit off the drill press and put it in your pocket.". A Kobalt block plane. So I bring it home, and it is... As expected. Fast forward a few months to Christmas time, we come over and are taking him out to dinner. So as we enter the shop, I tell him "Hey remember that blue POS you gave me?". "Yeah...?" He says in a skeptical tone of voice... " Well I fixed it for you" and I pull out an antique Stanley block plane out of my pocket and give it to him. "I even fixed it so it has a nice number on it.". ... The look on his face was great.

[@tode5675]

For the final word on Stanley planes go to Patrick Leach's Blood-n-Gore; www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

[@garygower702]

Hi Rex... Great videos and amazing way of woodworking! Great Yuoutibe Channel. I have a question for you: What is the diference betwen a flat sole and a groved sole? My planes are all grooved, At least localy they are this way, I will appreciate your comment. My next one to buy will be a # 4 (Smoother) I have a 7, a 5 (scrub) and alittle Block plane... Heep the good work. Thanks a lot.

[@musgrovebarry]

I always thought Stanley was a UK firm

[@musgrovebarry]

To who ever liked me for my ignorance👍.

[@AnonymousUser1776]

How do the Craftsman planes made by Millers Falls 3CBB, 5CBB, 7CBB measure up against their Stanley equivalents?

[@Gunk55]

Rex, so happy I found your channel. Super informative and inspiring. Slowly getting my tools for my shop and I stumbled upon a Stanley Bailey no.5 C. Is this going to work? What is the purpose in the corrugate soul? Appreciate you brother!

[@bttModeler]

No. 5¼ is actually shorter than regular No.5, I own one and I love it! It's a great jointer for some smaller jobs as it has a longer front pad than a No. 4. I also think that No. 3 and 5¼ make a great smoother and Jack kit for women woodworkers or subtle persons. Or for travelling kit! Narrower sole also makes it closer to a scrub plane when using it with a cambered iron, it may be more aggressive than a No. 5.

[@steveshapland8846]

My 1st choice would be a block plane. Then a jack, smoother and last a jointer. For rough stock prep I prefer a scrub plane(#40).

[@charitiekbyrd1]

Awesome info and yes, you've convinced me to try hand planes. I am going to take your suggestions and I will let you know how it's working out for me in a few months after I get a few of them. You are an amazing person and I have learned a lot from watching your content so thank you. Of course there is always more to learn and I will keep watching your content too. Stay safe and Happy Building 💯😁

[@cristhyancalderonarias1833]

Hi from Colombia good video 🤔I'm a beginner. Is it better an electric planer Bosch gho 700 or a hand planer number 4 ? Which one would you recommend if the price is too similar? I mean around $100) what can we do so important with a hand planer we can't with an electric planer? I'll be waiting for your answer🤔

[@bonedaddyd9312]

Rex. Love your stuff man. I just got gifted a few Stanley planes. Wild ones. One is a 190 ? Looks like the push me pull me of planes. The other is a rabbet plane of some sort. But I have no idea how they work. Any help. Thanks.

[@alanmaag8584]

Hi Rex. Thoroughly enjoying your videos. I have a barn sale find of I believe a Stanley No. 104 Liberty Bell. I took it apart to clean and sharpen but not certain how it goes back together. Is there a place to find things like blade to chip breaker relationship, bevel up or down, etc. I should have taken pictures. Thanks.

[@Si-xm1lv]

Great video thanks. But when u say " Scottish planes" and show a picture of a Norris of LONDON plane! That is English Haha

[@kumabeast7745]

Hi Rex, I have a stanley #4 plane that doesn't have a frog adjustment screw. Have you ever heard of stanley #4's like that? The reason that I'm asking is that I thought all stanley planes had frog adjustment screws of some type, so I'm perplexed about how to close the mouth. I haven't taken it apart yet (got it at a garage sale) so I thought I'd ask before I wreck something up. Cheers, Llew

[@amezcuaist]

One problem with old Sheffield plane irons is ; (Number One ) the dents caused by hammering when they were red hot. That dented surface is not best to be part of a wedge combination. Problem (Number Two ) is the back iron tightened up against the blade bends the blade into a curve. (See wedge combination again ) . Problem (Number Three ) is the blade thickness at the bevel end can be uneven. The left side of my Sorby blade was much thicker than the right side. I had to grind it flat on a coarse Chinese diamond plate to get the sole contact even. Finally (Number Four ) I glued strips of fine emery cloth to the back of the blades using Evostik to make a good friction contact. My number 4 size wood plane used to fall to bits if I looked at it .Now it works like a dream . Just like all my wooden planes .

[@amezcuaist]

My 4 1/2 Stanley blade would rock sideways as I put it together. There was only contact behind the bevel edge. (???). The cause was the sideways adjuster lever rivet was pressing up under the back iron (chip breaker ). There was no way to adjust that , so I glued (Evostik again ) a piece of steel plate under the back iron to clear the adjuster rivet. Otherwise the tiny wishbone pin was having a hard time every time the plane was used. How do those little pins last so long ?

[@LivingTheLifeRetired]

This was a very informative and entertaining at the same time. Worth a like and subscribe. I’m looking for my first plane.

[@ikust007]

My 5 1/2 Record is a splendour ... but more and more I go with wood planes . Except with extreme hard wood. I am afraid of breaking them when it’s too rough .

[@Tinguaro.]

Congratulations! I don't understand any English and I have to translate the whole video, but still one of the best I've seen in a long time! I have a question in case you can solve it for me! By chance in life, three Stanley # 4, two # 5 and two cornamusas (I don't know what they call it in English) Stanley 155 (among other things) came into my hands a long time ago, all made in England, I think they were before the sixties or seventies. Are they the same as those made in the USA or is it some kind of license transfer? How can I know that !?

[@Billy_Dino]

Rex are you familiar with French Goldenberg wood planes? I just got 2 plenty old blades and matching wood chippers in hands and would like some info. Cheers mate your channel is rad!

[@KeyvanJuanez]

So hypothetically speaking if someone had say... gotten a little drunk on ebay and now had two #3 and two #4 size planes. Would it be worth the hassle to set up one of those #4s for rough work? Or should I still hunt around for a larger one?

[@paulspence3601]

Paul Sellers sets up a no.4 as a scrib plane - so yes it sounds like a goer

[@PinoyTechTutorials]

Thank you verymuch Rex! Thanks Stella for the drawing =)

[@BobMuir100]

Rex I have watched you a few times now and I do like what I see, I am however a little confused you often mention beginners and that is me! So why do you use so much terminology or names that mean naff all to me? As an English man I do follow that some may be our two identical (? Lol) languages crashing but not all surly? That planer rundown was a wonderful explanation for me thank you. Bob England

[@hillogical]

Grandpa left me a 5 and a 6. I thought there was a #4 somewhere, but I have no idea where it is if he did. Either way, I'm 2/3 with no money invested. Thanks, Grandpa!!

[@tonybrumell8385]

There were other variations on the numbered plains as well. I have 4 's ,4/hal, four half, shoulder .Also Bedrock and sweetheart modles as well. .Most of the larger ones had these same variants. I love smoothing or roughing old barn boards with my 6 and 8 I I have never seen a 2 or 7. Are they that rare ?. I also have 4 Norris plains as well.and they feel just great to use. Maybe the Rosewood insert and the dovetailed Bronze body helps .Thx for the vid

[@finnmcool2]

I'm not a fine woodworker, I do home repairs, some furniture repairs and the occasional small project. This will surprise you but I've yet to find a situation where my jack plane and cheap block plane wouldn't get the job done. I know they aren't ideal for most things, but they suffice for an amazing number of things, and they were easy to get at the time and place where I needed to get tools.

[@seanbates4934]

Ever see a stanley 100 1/2 in the wild. I just did. It's like a unicorn. Amazing.

[@sparrowhawk81]

I know this is an old video, but I got an Irwin number 4 at menards (I know I know keep reading) before I had done a lot of research on planes. Here's the thing. It was $20. I had to flatten the lever cap a bit (the blue paint was a little too thick, made it press down on the chip breaker weird), make the sole flatter, round the edges and throat, but the frog is well made and flat and the blade is good.

[@willmorrison1022]

I'm weird, I know, but I find the #6 to be a very useful tool. Yes, it's heavy, but it's a great shooting board plane, essentially a small jointer. Gives you a great edge easily. And with it being on the shooting board, you don't need to deal with the weight as an issue. I love it.

[@yvessioui2716]

May be you did... but as I am new on your page I wonder if you ever talk about the Veritas line of plane and hyper-specialized planes. I will discover that soon I think. I know that Veritas Tools improve on many of the Stanley planes to make their lane of planes because, when they issued one, they explained thoroughly its history and its making and its uses and all there is to know about it.

[@tanelmottus2246]

Great video again. What about Stanleys modern planes. There are a lot of different planes with not historical numbering like 4 and 5. How do i know what is 4 or five noadays?

[@doncripemc3certifiedsr.med326]

I need to find a video, "Planes for Dummies." I don't know how to set up or use my plane, except as a paper weight. Help?

[@randallthomas5207]

With a 4-1/2 and a 7 you can do nearly everything, and interchange blades and chip breakers. So you can have a couple of blades with alternate grinds, and keep a spare sharp blade.

[@neilorourke71]

What would the process be if you're trying to plane around stuck-in screws or nails? I tried planing for the first time last week. Have a nice piece of old wood that I want to make into a table for my brother. Was really dirty. I've never planed before, so I just did my best and started going at it. I did even see that there were a bunch of rusty screws buried by the grime. Eventually turned the plane over and saw I had chunks missing out of my edge lol

[@jodyburton0351]

Rex, have you ever used an actual scrub plane like the Stanley #40? I feel like it is designed for heavier stock removal that would have been required for lumber which was much rougher than you get from the mill nowadays. I picked one up at a flea market for not a lot of cash a long time ago and have only used it once when a coworker wanted a fireplace mantel made from a barn beam. No one he knew would touch it with their planers for fear of embedded nails. It was walnut and planed like a dream, and the #40 made easy work taking it from hand hewn with a twist to relatively straight and square for further planing.

[@Paul-rx2ov]

i have a K5 that you have not mentioned and the patient on one part is 1918.750 and a B stamped piece below the other two were the planer blade plus i went to another place online and they had twenty types from 1869to 1967 in different type years but is Stanley Bailey so i am wondering if this one i am restoring is older then all these K5 a stamped B patient 1918.750

[@AeonCatalyst]

I have a block plane, a number 4, and a number 3. What should I do with my number 3 to actually get some use out of it? Still on the lookout for a jack and jointer plane

[@richmorin424]

Seems like they could have made a #6 (#7, ...) our of aluminum, to save weight.

[@Bergerons_Review]

Hi Rex, what would say if I choose SW 4, SW 62 and Bailey 7. Would that work?

[@dieiuai-malebenselbstgebau1523]

Thank you very much for this video, it is very helpful! Many regards from germany :)

[@DevinJuularValentine]

I'm learning to be a luthier, I've got thumb planes, apron plane, block plane, no 4 and no 5 1/2 and I think I just need to make a wooden scrub plane and I'll have one for almost any task I need

[@zootzyzanta1414]

I'm planning on buying my first plane. Which number should be my first one?

[@davidkantor7978]

I do almost all my planing with a #7. I have a 6; don’t quite know what it’s good for. But maybe I just need to tune it better.

[@stanc4629]

Are you a fan of block planes? Would you consider them part of this family or too specialized? And Way to go Stella. I know my 7 yr old would have said hello at least once. Now you need to do a video of the frame you make for that drawing.

[@SeamlessFab]

To those reading…. I’m the One sniping all of your desired Vintage planes off of eBay.

[@ED99LAM]

thanks for explaining. I have 2 and looking to buy different sizes/type.so this video is very useful

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic tips, Rex! Thanks a lot!!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@kentonward97]

I have 3-8 Stanley planes and I use them all , I also setup a # 3 as my hog the wood off plane and it works great for that. Awesome video and I learned something , now a video on the transition planes would be fitting as well