Every Stanley Bench Plane Explained (Once and for all!)

[@gdasailor4634]

Well Rex, As a young man in the boat shop I spent hundreds of hours with a plane in my hands. Here are a few thoughts: The #3 was very popular with boat builders because it is very light, you can use it all day without fatigue, and it will follow a sawn winding curve (rolling bevel on the edge of a shaped plank) without altering it's shape, just smooth out the saw marks down to the line. The #4 or 4 1/2 will not do that. Or, if you open the throat and fit a more cambered blade you have a scrub plane for planing wet rough wood, maybe hot straight from the steam box - another shipwright problem solved. The #4 1/2 was most popular with the joiners for smoothing hardwood, especially the #4 1/2 C - yes the weight is important for shooting through knots as well.. The #5 1/4 was popular with shipwrights because it is lighter and easier to carry around the shipyard or marina - tool boxes get very heavy very quickly! My carry around plane was a wooden jack with a "technical" handle - reduced thickness of the plane body behind the blade box to put the grip lower to the wood, which makes and the plane lighter and is more ergonomic - shipwrights do a lot of planing! I disagree with your characterisation of the #6. It is called a fore plane because it would be used before a jointer, never a smaller plane. I would finish a panel or door flat and shiny with my grand father's #6, and never go back to the #4 or 4 1/2. And yes, Stanley called the #7 a "trying" plane - to "try" out an edge before using the full sized #8 "door" jointer. In a modern shop, there really is no need for anything longer than the #6 or 5 1 /2 if you have one, however in nearly 50 years I have never met a tradesman who used a 5 1/2. Corrugated soles are useful for waxy or wet wood because they break the suction. I have often heard it said that they reduce friction, which is not technically true - friction is dependant on the contact force and nature of the 2 surfaces, but independent of the area in contact (grade 11 physics). However, C soles are not a good choice for narrow stock, such as the edge of 1/4 ply or plastic laminate, because the grooves can catch on the stock and pull the plane off line or damage the work. Cheers! GDA

[@738polarbear]

Clearly you are a very very experienced woodworker ,however I am too and I have my favourite 5 1/2 jack because my hands are a wee bit small. for a 6.Your explanation and points are SPOT ON though.I suspect your level of knowledge a tad beyond most people here. Alright a bit more than a tad.

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thank you for sharing your professional experience with planes. It is really helpful.

[@stevecollins9450]

Thanks so much for the added knowledge, GDA. I have also never found a need to use anything longer than my #6 when building furniture.

[@aumann0452]

If you like the Nr.4 because it's light and follows curves, you might want to take a look at a european style wooden plane, those are like 150 grams lighter than the metal ones, which is really noticeable after a day of work. There is one made by the Ulmia Brand which is top quality and has an adjusting wheel, I know a couple of people who would prefer it to a Stanley

[@ness-ee]

Yeh why would someone go from a 6 or 7 back down to a 4? I never understood that. It’s not like the 4 will enhance the finish already left by the longer plane.

[@mikeriv9229]

I started woodworking last year and only had a no. 5 and it really was all I needed to get started and do lots of quality work

[@steamr0ll]

Great video Rex, this can be a very intimidating subject for the beginner. A few years ago someone I knew was THROWING OUT a rusty old #6. I picked it up and knew right away that the old girl had life left in her, did some research and dated it at almost 100 years old! I watched the Paul Sellers video on restoring the bench plane and decided it would be a fun project and the first time I took a shaving with it I was hooked. That tool is as good today as the day it was made. Since then I have found (for free because they were roached) another #6, a #7 and a #4 and restored them all to working order. I also recently bought a Taytools #5 1/2 which is actually the first one I reach for most of the time and if I am just knocking something out it might be the only one I use. Keep up the great content and thanks for commenting on my turning saw in Instagram!

[@knaptonmawson]

Hi, I am an English Joiner, Apprentaship 1980, almoast the last of the true apprentiship era in England. I enjoy watching as you are pretty much on the mark with your advice in many videos. I now live in Germany and they have know idea about metal planes, I have introdused my colleges to the planes and Inches but it won´t catch on any time soon.

[@clatechilders856]

How I chose which planes to buy? Whichever one I stumbled across at a yard sale or auction😄

[@TimRoyalPastortim]

Yep! 😀 that worked out to a 4 and a 5! 😆 lol

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

I know, Right!? But Rex! What of the other 598 planes in the collection!? What of the Rabbits and Shoulders, the Bullnoses and Fillets, the hardboard, matching, trim and roundover planes!?

[@OABrown]

accurate!

[@billbicskei7882]

Rex, I love what you're doing! Keep it up! How about building some kind of caddy/plane holder. Now that I'm getting the tools I need some where to store them. Thanks from Alaska.

[@cfrandom]

I've not quite started woodworking - still in the initial tool accumulation phase - and this past weekend at an estate sale, I picked up a what I thought was just a nice size Stanley in excellent shape for $18. After I bought it, I wiped off the dust to find out that it's a No. 5. Now I just have to learn how to use the sucker ...

[@starskiify]

I worked as a patternmaker at a UK foundry in the 70s they cast 100s of Stanley planes every week, I always wondered where they all went. Ps if you take your planes apart and they are stamped with a CF or Q these were cast at Crane foundry or Quacast.

[@pmcgee003]

Did those have the 'ENGLAND' lettering on the heel?

[@PeteLewisWoodwork]

I've just bought Stanley 4 and 4&half on eBay, so when they arrive, I'll check for the stampings.

[@henryskinner1092]

Rex, I learn something from you every time I watch your videos. Keep figuring it out. You are the man. And yes I am a newbie woodworker. My wife said I needed something to do after 45 safe years cross country driving. Thank you and God Bless. Be careful, stay safe.

[@mikescheve429]

This explains things perfectly. Best explanation of hand planes on KZbin. Nicely done.

[@RexKrueger]

Glad it was helpful!

[@StripeyType]

Hooray, Stella! Thank you for sharing that wonderful drawing! And thank you Rex, too. ;)

[@trudi1962]

Hi Rex, I just bought a type 19, no. 4 at our local market (Adelaide, Australia). Just like a kid with a new toy I rushed home, looked up the vintage, then came to you for advice. I'm thrilled to find that I wasn't ripped off. Looking forward to painstakingly restoring it. Also have fond memories of my preschool age son doing exactly the same as your Stella. Ahh sigh... (he's nearly 30 now) .

[@jriggan]

In process on restoring a fully adjustable #4 that was in my grandpa’s toolbox, using your videos as a guide. Thanks Rex!

[@KuntaKinteToby]

How'd it go? I recently did the same with my grandfather's, planes like butter

[@LaurieSavage]

Recently I bought a new No 4 Stanley Bench Plane. The sides aren't square to the bottom so I can't use it on a shooting board. I didn't even know that was a thing when I bought it, so beware, take a tri-square with you when you buy a plane. Apart from that it worked very well once I found out I had to sharpen it. Thanks for the videos Rex. I'm finally taking the plunge with hand tools.

[@amezcuaist]

Yesterday I flattened the sole of a Stanley 4 1/2 with a thin diamond plate from China. The plate was a very coarse 80 grit. Now the edges of the mouth match evenly . After that I smoothed the surface with another thin Chinese diamond plate of 3000 grit. The plane works really well now . I discovered that a 4 1/2 plane used on a shooting board allows the hand to be very comfortable with the thumb tucked in behind the frog . Great videos of these planes Rex .

[@lincolndickerson1293]

Thanks for all the great information on planes. My dad was a carpenter and he would whip the hand plan and make quick work of anything he used it on. I bought a craftsman hand plane 20 years made several disaters with and put it back in the toolbox… Fast forward to 6 months ago, I was gifted a Stanley Handman plan, looks like a number 4. Hang in there the point is coming. lol. So i decided to create an end grain cutting board last month. Chose an interesting pattern ( grain goes in every direction) and I have sanded to near flat and was thinking about trying to plain it by hand because it is not light under a straight edge flat. That’s how i got here. I know now both plans need properly setup including sharpening with camber and flatten of the base. Regardless you have covered everthing. I will be sharpening later this week, I prefer stones to paper plus I already own them. Then practice on scraps and extra blocks from the cutting board to prepare before hitting the board I have many hours into. Thanks again!

[@BensWorkshop]

Like the drawing, well done Stella! I like the adjustability of the metal planes but there is something magical about a long wooden plane, particularly with a Marples blade.

[@thysbasson1786]

It's my birthday, and I wants it...😂 When I started out with woodworking I didn't realise the versatility and usefulness of hand tools, I just wanted to use the machines for everything. And while I still love machinery, I've fallen in love with hand planes and chisels etc. I never realised how much time and money a properly setup hand plane could save you. My power tools will also last longer now since I don't "abuse" them so much like I used to...for example by expecting a sander to make a board flat, and sanding and sanding and just never getting there 😢😂

[@corncobjohnsonreal]

This is such a good topic to cover that I can't believe I haven't seen anyone do it before. It's kinda genius

[@dpgt3478]

Lmao beside the other 1M videos on it hahaha

[@twh7011]

Wood by wright covers this topic. Many times over. I liked this video too.

[@MT_T991]

Good demonstration. Apprenticed as a cabinet maker, for us 4-1/2, 5-1/2 and 7or 8 (which is what i own) are all you need brilliant planes We jointed all our boards after overhand planing them

[@christophertaylor87]

Great video! Other people always seem to over complicate the Stanley line up. This breaks it down into something normal people can understand and not just plane junkies.

[@RexKrueger]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ncpigpen]

Great Video as always. The only thing that I would add to this kit is a block plane of some kind. I love my 60 1/2!

[@inmyimage1081]

As a newbie who has been trying to figure out the plane game, this was a perfect overview. I’m disabled and will be relying on power tools because I simply wouldn’t be able to to make any kind of progress using hand tools but can see that I might appreciate a hand plane or two so this was a huge help because all the numbering was confusing, not from a sizing standpoint, other than that the 1/2’s are wider not longer, I haven’t seen a 1/4 yet. The confusion was, which are best to get for beginners and in what order and for what specific use case. Thanks!

[@charleshirst6220]

I have a collection of planes acquired over several decades and I have wondered over the numbering and uses. This is an excellent video, admirably presented. thank you. Some people are derogatory about Staley and Record planes - you haven't spent enough thus they aren't as good as e.g. Lie Nielsen. Well, I have always found that if sharpened well, then they are just fine.

[@AutotechWoodworking]

Thanks for putting them in groups and explaining it so someone that doesn't have any planes, nor any power tools that perform the same function, can understand. I have asked many others which planes to start with, and I've received as many answers as the number of times I asked the question. This makes it easier to decide which plane to get as my first one, and if I can't find one in decent condition for a decent price, what my alternatives are.

[@mfrutchey]

Awesome info. I’m just getting started in woodworking, and really enjoy watching your videos. You should GL frame Stella’s picture and put it up in your shop. A bit of personal character on the walls would look nice…and maybe entice Stella to take up the craft herself!

[@OutOfBoxCollector]

I love your videos! I'm a beginner wood worker and I only have the Stanley No. 4... I'm very happy with it. I was able to build a screen door, 2 tables, 3 shelves and a door.

[@bokfuman]

Hello Rex, As usual your videos are stellar with great content, well prepared, and the fact your daughter was so quiet is awesome. My 18 yr son also enjoys your videos since you do such a great job of explaining what you are trying to get across to everyone. I wanted to say thank you for the information in the video because I was blessed to find an old Bailey No 7 that is in great shape for under $20, the front knob is missing but everything else is still in tack just needs some TLC. Since I live in Northern California this is a real find besides all the other tools that this person was selling that belonged to his wife's father. I will be looking through your videos to find ones on restoring this plane and the other tools. Thank you and keep up the good work.

[@HeathStreetWoodworking]

Fantastic video!! Believe it or not, the minimalist set you recommended is exactly what I’ve been using for years and couldn’t be happier. I did add a low angle block plane to the mix and that’s been a great addition.

[@perezhernandez1061]

This video is just what I needed to get what I need! Where I live almost everyone uses power tools, so their isn't much quality info on hand tools. I'm trying my best to gather hand tool knowledge and wright it down so I can teach people about hand tool woodworking! Thank you very much Rex! P.S. Your daughter is a great artist!

[@zacdredge3859]

14:45 Stella job Little Miss Krueger. Thanks for lending your dad and drawing skills. Oh and I guess you did fine Rex; made this whole plane business as easy as 4, 5, 6. Hahaha!

[@TheBottegaChannel]

Rex, thank you for the very informative video. When I was researching planes for my woodworking purpouses I decided I needed somthing very compact, easily to disassemble for maintinance purpouses, and easy to transport for my " portable wood working kit". The end result I settled on was a Stanley Trim Plane ( purchased at a hardware store for round about $10.00). It's very versatile for it's size, fit's snugly alongside about 25 different small hand tools inside it's transport case ( which is 8 in. × 8 in. By 2 1/4 in. Deep) and is easier then pie to maintain and disassemble should the need arise. Hope this info helps. Please thank Stella for sharing the lovely picture and wonderful well wishes for me.

[@psiclops521]

I got a 70s Craftsman No. 4 and set it up as my scrub and then spent the money for a new Taylor No. 5 and set it up as my smoother. Works fine. I also have an old Stanley block plane. My next purchase was going to be the Taylor No. 7 because the Taylors are as good, in my opinion, as the high-priced planes, but they require a long tune up before you use them. After watching this, I may just give a cheapie wooden long plane a shot and see if I can set it up to work as well as a steel jointer. And well done Stella.

[@charitiekbyrd1]

Awesome info and yes, you've convinced me to try hand planes. I am going to take your suggestions and I will let you know how it's working out for me in a few months after I get a few of them. You are an amazing person and I have learned a lot from watching your content so thank you. Of course there is always more to learn and I will keep watching your content too. Stay safe and Happy Building 💯😁

[@joshualinder6375]

I finished restoring my 4.5 i found in my garage and used it for a project in my construction engineering class. It really helped out making everything fit together.

[@seanfarrell2862]

Very informative video. I found a No. 6 at antique shop this weekend sold as a pair with a smaller plane, not Stanley, for $8.50. It needs an iron, iron cap, and lever cap, but I am excited to restore it. I have been looking for a no.7 for a while, but I think the 6 will do just fine. I will check out your other video on it.

[@MrArolav]

Awesome and very helpful video, but the star of it all: Stella. Having a 5-year old, I understand the challenge. Great job Stella! Both on the quietly sitting and the hand plane drawing!

[@David-hm9ic]

Thanks for publishing this. Kudos to Stella! I haven't purchased a No. 3 yet but have a 4 and a 5 Craftsman made by Millers Falls. It took me a while to understand which plane to use for what. They and a No. 220 Stanley block plane have doe well for me so far.

[@thomaslthomas1506]

I used the 3 basic wood planes in my shop for over 30 years.since going back to furniture making nearly full time and 98% hand tools I’ve switched to low angle for my big 3 and been very pleased with the switch overall, though I still use my wood smoother a lot and I got a dedicated scrub plane as well.

[@kentonward97]

I have 3-8 Stanley planes and I use them all , I also setup a # 3 as my hog the wood off plane and it works great for that. Awesome video and I learned something , now a video on the transition planes would be fitting as well

[@jameschristiansen7278]

Thank you for the video. I just found a No. 4 and No. 5 that are in a great shape at a great price. I’m looking forward to cleaning them up and using them.

[@Mike-qh5bn]

Good video which gave me a bit more insight. My trade was software engineering, but i have inherited my fathers tools, he was a cabinet maker, i use them all the time now i am retired, he had 3x Stanley #4, 1x Stanley #5 and 2x Stanley #6 plus a few wooden planes which were rotted by the time i got them

[@timothymallon]

Rex, I remember when my children were young and they would hang out in my wood shop. One of my daughters made me a bow saw in her shop class and another made me a toolbox.

[@warpfly6318]

I got a 5.5 as uk plus a cheap 4 set as scrub and 4 stanley thank you for your advice

[@paisaconstructiondavid1964]

Yes I would agree these are 3 are good suggestions. Please clarify about the block plane and the chisel plane my favorites.

[@lhtd]

I got a n4, and recently recieved a n6 by kunz. I do definitely need a foreplane. I'll be hunting for one. Amazing drawing. Thank you Stella !

[@lilly5758]

Just picked up my first Stanley plane at an estate sale for $10. I'm hooked!!

[@gordonkennygordon]

Thank you, Stella! (I actually teared up a little at the end) Love the positive energy in the Krueger house! Peace :)

[@manjeetmaparamanjeet]

As a beginner nd looking to buy.. amazingly systematic video with the right amit of info delivered in the best possible manner..cd be an template for educational videos..hats off to u sir

[@summerwind4590]

Thank you so much Rex, I was looking for which ones to get as a hobbyist and home improvement kind of guy.

[@mm9773]

Hi Stella. Thanks for letting us see the picture - well done!

[@Saw-IT]

Great video Rex, I was given a heap of planes by by Dad and have bought, restored and made several planes since then, if i had to start again, i would go with your selection.

[@williamnye478]

You're absolutely spot-on! I've been using three similar planes for many years. For most of your work, they're all you need. But the great thing about having all those planes out there is, everyone's hands are different. You can pick whatever feels right.

[@HarryVoyager]

14:42 Ok, this is now the second video of yours I've wanted to like twice. Bravo

[@PerryChristensen]

Stella is awesome! The video was great but her drawing was the icing on the cake.

[@blipblip88]

After cleaning up a basement full of tools, lightly chipping off flecks of paint (why is there always flecks of white paint on old tools?), and cleaning up the planes, I think I have most of these. My Great grandfather built Christ Craft boats as well as gaming tables with marquetry inlay when he had time..I inherited his tools, and use them for my musical instrument-making hobby. This is a very informative video, and I appreciate it very much! Thanks for your posting!!

[@CleaveMountaineering]

I totally agree. Along with the foreplane, smoother, and jointer, I'd add the small block plane is good to have around too.

[@TootieProduct]

I inherited a stanley baily No4 from my grandad, I love using it, thank you for your informative video, I'm looking out for a No6 now

[@SAHBfan]

I was given a number 8 by my late father-in-law. It is a beast! I spent some time restoring it, fettling it and setting it up - but then left it on one side as many videos I watched (I am a novice woodworker) seemed to suggest it wasn't such a useful tool (too big and heavy, the sole flexes too much, it is not as good as wooden jointers etc) and not really necessary these days. However, I don't have a thicknesser or planer. I saw some very good videos on how to properly prepare stock - and when I tried the no.8 for this task, then it turned out to be really excellent at it, once I had acquired a bit of technique to use it properly.

[@johnraffensperger]

Hey, Stella! Thanks for letting your dad do this one. I was glad to see it, helped me a lot in understanding planes.

[@kenea3226]

Double thumbs up Rex. Picked up a box of second hand tools at a yard sale just for the #4 (and a few other useful items) on your recommendation for $25.

[@hdwoodshop]

I wish I’d known this 2 yrs ago. Although thru my thirsty search for hand planes I found a 1st or 2nd gen number 4 circa civil war days that I bought for 5 bucks. After de rusting and adjusting, it cuts just fine! Crazy to have such an old tool. Planes are fascinating. Thx for sharing this video.

[@mattmiller9073]

Rex, thanks very much for your informative and lively plane video. It is an excellent overview of the main line planes. A couple years ago I bought one of the wood river #1 planes because I needed it,...really. I had no expectation for the thing, which seemed to be a novelty that possibly would just fill a bit of shelf space. However, it turned out to be really really outstanding on end grain, cleaning up dovetails, finishing the top edge of small boxes, like jewelry boxes, and similar applications. It is much better than any block plane I have used. It is not that comfortable to hold, but it is so good, it sits with a #4 and #5 on my bench and gets used in every project. Anyone else have an opinion on the tiny #1?

[@g5flyr169]

Glad I watched all the way to the end... otherwise I would have missed Stella's drawing. When my daughter was little nothing would keep her interested and quiet longer than a box of markers or crayons and some paper. She's 18 now and she still loves to draw in her spare time. Some of her work hangs in my workshop.

[@oliverdelica2289]

Heck yeah! Another plane video! Also nice thumbnail!

[@Mikey__R]

I'm getting back into woodworking after a few years off. I did the Anarchists course with Chris Schwarz in 2014, and coming back to my tools in 2020 I've changed them up a bit. My #4 is now set up as a scrub plane. It's lighter than a jack, and takes just as big a bite. To replace it, I'm restoring an #804 bedrock with a new Hock blade. Then, I've also got a #7 that gets as much use as the #4. I've been preparing stock for table legs, it's perfect for that. It is a bit too long for me shed, so I've got to work half of each board before flipping it around, but the mass of the plane and the big Iles D2 steel blade meant I got very little tearout when planing uphill. My final comment: if you only have a #4, you can get a thicker Hock blade to use as a smoother, then sharpen the Stanley blade with a camber for scrubbing. The thicker blade will tighten up the mouth, the thinner cambered blade will leave it open.

[@kevinharvey9579]

I have a Millers Falls No.10 (Stanley 4 1/2) that i love using, needs replacement tote handle and is set up with a scrub blade. Nice and heavy

[@theeddorian]

A really nice summary. I had never heard about the competition with the Scottish in-fills. Some of us just like planes. I have too many as it stands. One thing that a heavy try or jointer works well for is on a shooting board. That mass, once moving, reduces the effort of cutting the end grain. If you need to look at thin shavings across end grain - say when asked to identify a wood - then they really are good when nice and sharp. I have a 4 1/2 and it's one of my favorite planes. The extra wide blade makes smoothing a four-inch wide piece just a little quicker and I notice it.

[@DanielWorkshop]

I have discovered you when you made the movie with Uri and since then I am enjoying your movies. I love your movies and your energy. I only have a 4 1/2. :)

[@Control-Freak]

Great video! I had to go buy each, or multiples of, from 3 to 8. They look great in the plane till I made for them but like you came to realize that the only planes I use are block, 4, 5, 7 and a low angle jack(veritas). I work out of a small shop and it is a battle to keep free space in a 10' x 16' footprint. I plan on making a killer wall cabinet and need to "thin the herd". My plan is to get a LN 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and 7 and sell the rest. This way I can fit them in the cabinet and condense my planes, marking tools, chisels etc. in one place. This will allow me to get rid of other tills and storage. It is an ongoing process.

[@532bluepeter1]

Thank you Rex, that was a very interesting video. i only have a 4 and a 7 of those you have shown but I prefer my wooden planes as they are lighter and it seems to me that the irons are harder and keep an edge longer. Further to that the jack and try were freebies. One was given to me and the other fly tipped outside my garage without a handle. I made a new handle, cleaned and polished it then ground and honed the iron and it is as good as new and a joy to use. I only use my Stanley 7 for shooting end grain on the shooting board.

[@wawasnowbeaver]

Great video.....you just saved me hundreds on things I don't need or want in my little shop

[@boeldridge2939]

Stella's drawing is great love it. Oh and the video was very helpful as well.

[@nicholasdavis9849]

As a beginner to wood planes, I only have the 4 1/2 cheap stuff you can find. One thing that I would be interested in making would be a jointer like you showed in the beginning. Any plans or advice in making one would be very valuable.

[@bttModeler]

No. 5¼ is actually shorter than regular No.5, I own one and I love it! It's a great jointer for some smaller jobs as it has a longer front pad than a No. 4. I also think that No. 3 and 5¼ make a great smoother and Jack kit for women woodworkers or subtle persons. Or for travelling kit! Narrower sole also makes it closer to a scrub plane when using it with a cambered iron, it may be more aggressive than a No. 5.

[@FireByTrial1]

trying to find a decent plane to get started and this is perfect for me, thanks Rex! now I just need to find some to get started. slowly working through the woodworking for humans

[@maplobats]

I'll bet I'm not the only one who doesn't want to be saved from ending up with a bunch of planes we don't need... For some of us, that is the goal. And Stella's picture was brilliant!

[@seandwyer2020]

We all suffer from this affliction and we all end up suffering because of it. I have four joiner planes. A number seven and then some wooden planes of rather enormous size, one of which I made. Lovely as they are, they take up space on my plane shelf which might be better served if I traded them for a number six or number four.

[@kent5400]

I've gone down the path of buying more planes than I need and it's not all bad. Now that I have a few singles of other sizes and several 3s, 4s and 5s from different makers and lines (Bailey, Handyman, clones) and have had a chance to use them all I now know which ones I prefer and why. The hard part is getting rid of the ones that I no longer use. It seems that the tool door on the shop is a one-way door. :-D

[@rickprice407]

My most common planes are a 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and a 7. I also have a restored Craftsman #8, a ew shoulder planes, a low angle jack plane (used with a new blade as a scrub plane), block planes (Lie Nielsen, Wood River and restored Stanley (from the 1920s) and and embarassing number of other antique and wooden planes (all restored an usuable) in my collection. Thanks for the contacts about the #6, I have a #7 and a #8. I have them all and they have their uses in my shop. I do like the 4 1/2, the 5 1/2 qne the 7 as the go tos. I also carry a block plane in my apron at all times. What I'm doing depends on which one I use. Thanks for the videos!

[@AirwolfCrazy]

My first metal plane was a Stanley #7. The price was good and it had been fully restored and had an upgraded Veritas blade and chip breaker. Due to the situation and timing in life I could not get another for awhile and I have used that plane for rough work to smoothing. Great plane. I enjoy using it and can get gossamer thin shavings from it.

[@orbodman]

I've only just realized of all the planes I own I don't have a no5. But I love the 6 and use it for shooting. I sold a LN mitre plane as the 6 did much the same and the LN 9 was worth just too much too keep. I use a very old wooden razee plane for a scrub plane, as it weighs nothing and hogs off timber all day long. I have 10 1/2 for smoothing and rebates and a "3 dates" 1910 (the absolute best Era Stanley) no7 for jointing. I agree that's all you need. The rest are handy when required and nice to look at.

[@JackCliffordWilliams]

Damn! That was a really interesting video and then you throw in the dedication! I'm tearing up Rex! 🥰

[@CamQTR]

My experience may be helpful to anyone who is beginning to make violins. At first, I used a Stanley number 8 for jointing the plates. It was heavy and clumsy, difficult to keep it from tipping to one side. Now I use a number 6, it is much better for the task. Much easier to use.

[@marcclarke01]

This is an immensely helpful video for me. The woodworker would have had three planes. Stanley made all sorts of planes for marketing purposes not necessarily for woodworking purposes. I have been floundering and trying to figure out why I needed one through eight and the half sizes and what differentiated them and what for. Thank you. 👍

[@RexKrueger]

I should have had you write the description for this video!

[@danwittmayer6539]

So much info here in so little time! Thank you Rex. Brava, Stella!

[@justinmaddox8353]

I picked up a Stanley Sweetheart #4, I love it. Then in a "junk drawer" at my mother-in-law's from her estate, I scored a Stanley block plane that had never been used, which needs some rust taken off.

[@billgiles3261]

I have several planes, mostly second hand. But my old Stanley 5 1/2 is my goto every day plane. Although as Rex says the Stanley sweetheart bevel up for end grain shooting is great.

[@andreasschrader6925]

Like every time you made it with that kind of passion for the theme. Thanks for this video

[@RexKrueger]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@Gunk55]

Rex, so happy I found your channel. Super informative and inspiring. Slowly getting my tools for my shop and I stumbled upon a Stanley Bailey no.5 C. Is this going to work? What is the purpose in the corrugate soul? Appreciate you brother!

[@motobenbh4722]

Binging on Rex's plane videos ..... again If you can't afford 2 No. 5's, and your workflow allows - get 2 irons. Set one up with a steep grind and a bunch of camber; set the other iron up as a smoother. I use mine mostly as a Jack (of all trades), so I just occasionally put in the fore iron and open the mouth for heavy stock removal.

[@TheWingnut58]

Great info Rex, I'd love to see a video comparing all of Stanley's different versions.....like the Victor, the Handyman, the Sweetheart....which are best, which to avoid etc...

[@CAJLAMB]

Great summary on what can be a confusing topic, where lots of people have strong opinions

[@jeffspaulding9834]

Something I'd recommend: if you have something like a Woodcraft store near you, give it a visit and ask to look at the planes. Their Wood River planes are basically copies of Stanley bedrock planes, so they feel very similar in the hand. Stanley planes will be a bit lighter, but you'll at least have a ballpark idea of what works for you. For example, I was thinking of buying a #3, but after handling one at Woodcraft discovered they were too small for my hands and went with a #4. I'm sure other Woodworking stores having something similar, but around here Woodcraft is the only game in town. (I ended up buying a Wood River #4 instead of a Stanley. It's the only new bench plane I've ever purchased, but wasn't my first plane - I had several #5s and a #7. Now that I've had it a while, I think I like vintage Stanleys better just because they all have their own "personality," but I have no complaints about the performance of the Wood River. It's a good plane and never strays far from my bench.)

[@ED99LAM]

thanks for explaining. I have 2 and looking to buy different sizes/type.so this video is very useful

[@mikestewart505]

Years ago, my Dad bought me a used Stanley #6A. It has a ton of sentimental value, of course, but it's also a very useful tool. I'd be curious to try an iron one, though, because it seems like the weight could be an advantage in some situations.

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Wow! That is an awesome drawing Stella. Thank you for your great video Rex.! 👍😊

[@RexKrueger]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@LivingTheLifeRetired]

This was a very informative and entertaining at the same time. Worth a like and subscribe. I’m looking for my first plane.

[@Masterof1ne]

I would always suggest getting a no 5 they are the most versatile and generally the cheapest . Also if you need to start off with an off brand plane like a Dunlop or Sears do not worry they will get you even more excited about woodworking!

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

Very interesting! I'm a n00b to woodworking... only had a "new" bailey #4, but wanted a 2nd longer plane for jointing, flattening, truing, etc. Found a pretty mint series15 #6 yesterday and bought it! Good price, esp for its' condition... waay cheaper than even a rusty #5-1/2! I was contemplating very hard bn a #5 and #6 (to pair with my #4)... but was worried a #5 would be too similar to the #4, and I'd maybe just use that all the time and never the #4 anymore. So, I think a #6 is a better difference... #4 for smoothing and general work, and a #6 for jointing, truing and flattening. It's kinda like camera prime lenses... you usually skip the next focal length, or double it... to minimize your kit weight, size and/or cost. eg: if I had a common 50mm lens (#4 plane), then another typical 35mm lens (#5 plane) is kinda similar.... so, I got a 24mm (#6) instead! Also, a 24mm is kinda similar to a 35mm too (I could always just easily crop the 24mm pic to get a 35mm fov). ...a nice "gap" in your minimal kit of lenses (or planes), while still being most versatile. Also, #6 is like half the cost of a rare #5-1/2 (esp one that's not completely rusted), and a 1/3 the price of a #7! #6 is a wonderful thing! Not to mention it also has a wider blade than my #4 (same as a #5-1/2).

[@mytinyworkshop1213]

Thanks for such an informative video.

[@nightcatarts]

I don't do a lot of planing, but I only have 2 planes. One is a 5-size & is set up for jointing (I work with smaller boards only) & the other is a 4-size that does everything else (it's one with the quick adjustable mouth size via sliding toe, & I just swap out the flat iron for a cambered one & adjust the mouth for rough work). Pretty decent all-round set for about £90 all-in, but I have had my eye on a low angle plane specifically for shooting & may splash out a bit more on that.

[@douglashopkins8070]

Great video. I have a modern 4, and a 4 1/2 and a 7 from my grandfather. Then i went and got a small block plane. All i feel the need to use. Please pass my best wishes to Stella. Nice drawing.

[@ehager2]

Try converting a low-angle to a scrub plane. I’ve found that to be a very effective fore plane. The light weight makes it easy to get stock close without too much effort, especially going across the grain. Then I use a 5 1/2 to finish.