This will change the way you build floating shelves FOREVER!

[@mikew3924]

Looks good and it's strong. Nicely done. For commenters. Miter fold and lock router joints are better for none solid wood. This joint requires solid wood face. However it gives options on different corner profiles plus stronger. I leave center supports free until install for left to right adjustments which is especially important on full floating shelving. Also relief at least a 45 or 1/2" x 1/2" out of wall side to scribe tight to wall covering. My take is it looks great and will last a long time. Hopefully it inspires people to try and make them.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Well said! Thank you!!!

[@hkbondar]

Jordan, excellent video, great production values, thanks for sharing your mistakes (that’s how we all learn), very effective “tell-then-show” instructional design. Really well done. Thank you so much for taking the time to create this valuable content and share it with us. You asked how others had done floating shelves. I recently made two 8-foot-long shelves using a similar technique - mahogany plywood top & bottom wrapped with 3/8” solid mahogany on the face and sides, with the grain flowing around mitered corners - but I attached the face and sides to the plywood by using (a lot of) biscuits and glue. My technique was stronger than the folded miters everyone else does, but not nearly as strong as the interlocking glue line profile that you used. If I’m going to make more floating shelves, I will definitely buy that router bit. Since the shelves were so long, the glue up was challenging. I used a lot of F-style and parallel clamps to hold the long front face on, and I used ratcheting tie downs (like what you’d find in the bed of a pickup truck) linked together and wrapped around the long way to hold the sides on. After the glue dried and I needed to get the slightly proud hardwood faces flush down with the plywood, I was going to use a flush trim bit in a hand-held router, but I was scared to death I’d tear out the edge of the mahogany and screw everything up. So instead I sanded - and accidentally sanded off some of that thin plywood veneer, just like you did. :) P.S. I made a jig and routed a channel on the bottom of each shelf to install LED lighting, which came out fantastic, thanks to a video I watched by Spencer Lewis at Insider Carpentry (kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3LSoJKMrNaEkMU) -- Thank you @Spencer!

[@EverydayBuilds]

8 footers sounds like a tough challenge for sure! But it sounds like you did an awesome job. Spencer is great, I’ve learned a lot from him. Thank you for the great comment 😁

[@DebHeadworth]

Thank you for your clear explanation of this floating shelf construction. You have a gift for teaching.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you Deb! 😁 And you’re welcome!

[@malcolmgruber8165]

I'm surprised hollow floating shelves aren't normally made like this. I feel like this is just how I saw things in my head if I were to build one. It looks so great and is quite simple

[@EverydayBuilds]

Great minds think alike, lol 👊

[@peterdoyle833]

Been in a funk with my woodworking last few months. Not sure why but this video fired me up a bit to get back in the game. thanks ! subscribed and liked

[@EverydayBuilds]

I totally get it. Glad I could reignite your passion 🤙

[@TheLazerace7]

Omg, the moment I saw the router bit it made so much sense

[@EverydayBuilds]

😁😁😁

[@TheLastPharm]

Good to see that I'm not the only guy out there that over-engineers the heck out of my projects. About 11 years ago, I made 4 floating shelves out of 12mm mdf, miterfolded the joints, and installed small, built-in halogen spotlights (for cabinet applications). I used thick maple strips for the wall brackets, very similar to your design. Never ever had a problem with anything sagging or splitting. I think what's most important is to think things through in terms of weight on the bracket and minimum/maximum thickness of material topside/underside shelf. One thing I will say in your defence of a more 'sophisticated' construction is that you're challenging yourself with learning techniques that will help you in other projects where this extra attention to structural integrity is a must. So there's that. Great work brother, not a thing wrong with this, even though it IS a wee bit overkill 😂 You've got an end result there that no one can argue with.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you!!! 🙌

[@ackmartin60]

Great technique but a miter lock bit is even better. Make the top, front and bottom the same thickness and the run top and bottom flat. Before you run the front vertically raise the bit about 1 or 2mm. that will make it sit that amount proud. After glue up and putting a little round over on it the joint will be almost invisible but you will have a little bit of solid wood on the front edge. That way you won't see the bit of of solid wood that you have on the top and bottom surfaces.

[@raymondbunkofske4702]

You’re correct but it also leaves the veneer very vulnerable to chipping at the corner. I’d rather see a bit of the hardwood and have a more robust edge.

[@ackmartin60]

That is the point of raising the bit for the vertical pass. It gives you a little bit of solid wood on the corner to prevent chipping and give it a more robust edge. But it disappears under the round over. @@raymondbunkofske4702

[@joelw6215]

I w had a brand new glue Line bite in my cabinet for about 3 months now. I am going to play around with it. I do floating shelves all the time and this is an awesome alternative To mitered corners. Thanks man

[@EverydayBuilds]

You’re welcome 👍

[@_Rikk_]

i like that trick just ordered the bit

[@EverydayBuilds]

Awesome! Enjoy!

[@weskus]

Young man. You know , what you are doing. Lovely equiipment in your workplace. Big envy. .

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you 🙏

[@scotstevig]

Dude, this has been the most beneficial video I have watched so far in regards to woodworking and building stuff. There is no doubt in my mind that this is a much better technique. Thank you!

[@EverydayBuilds]

Awesome! Thank you! I’m a little confused by your question, because the internal support pieces are glued to the top and bottom pieces of plywood 👍

[@scotstevig]

@@EverydayBuilds I must have misunderstood. I may go in and edit my comment so I don’t look like a complete idiot. Lol. You really did do an awesome job. I was just getting ready to go to bed. I work nights as a nurse. And I was actually reading some of the comments here. It is extremely beneficial to show your “mistakes” (learning opportunities) as well as your successes.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you 🙏 and you don’t look like an idiot, lol. I don’t mind answering questions at all 🤙

[@scotstevig]

I have an idea for shelving, plant shelves, cat trees, etc. I was hesitant to share it with anybody for fear that somebody would steal my idea. But after watching this, I realized that sharing is how we give back to each other, learn from each other, etc. Actually, I’m kind of ashamed of myself. It is an example of a poverty mentality. If you are interested in hearing more about this, please let me know. I think you would have some great ideas on how to do this. I have tried to find out what the poles are called that hold up the shelves. For now we will call in poles. Traditional shelving units have four poles. For the past couple years shelving units with 2 poles that make a 90 degree turn at the top and screw into the wall have been popular. I was thinking that a shelving unit or cattery or whatever with two poles floor to ceiling would be awesome. For the past two or three months, I have taken some steps towards minimalism. One of the concepts or benefits is the less stuff we have, the less we have to take care of. I definitely agree with this, but I don’t plan on taking it to an extreme. However, I remember one video. I watched where the lady has chosen not to have side tables and no rug on the hardwood floor. Her reasoning is that it makes it easier to clean. Obviously one thing is not going to make a huge difference. However, when I clean my place, it’s so small that I have to move stuff from one side of the room to the other side of the room, etc. etc. So here is my idea: having shelves or cat trees or whatever that appear to hang from the ceiling by one pole. This would look great, AND it would make things easier to clean. But to be clear mostly it would look great. I have not thought of a way that the shelves to only have one connection points, so I am thinking that there would be a way to attach one or two of the shelves or parts of the cat tree or whatever shoe a wall obviously in a very strategic fashion, so that it still appears that everything is just hanging by one pole. And then, if whatever it is someone is building happens to be in the middle of a room or too far away from the wall to be able to use the wall than one floor to ceiling pole would still look great. Anyway, if you have any ideas or want to come up with something together, please let me know. I just think this would be such a unique look, and have the benefit of one less thing to have to move to clean under. It would definitely necessitate using high quality materials, maybe even inner metal poles or something

[@scotstevig]

I wanted to let you know I found an example of what I am talking about. I have tried to find examples previously, but no luck (except utility-like shelves in the garage, and they are still traditional in that they have 4 poles). If you google Unica Shelving Ceiling Nomon you will see a great example. It appears that all of their shelves and desks and other furniture in this line, primarily have only one pole or whatever they’re called, but in the case of a desk for instance there are two supports/poles. And they do what I suspected you would have to do, which is attach at least one usually two of the shelves to the wall in a very discreet manner.

[@j.c.sministries1530]

Well done that's how the professionals do it. I know because that's exactly how I do it every single time and I am a cabinet builder. Also a woodworker

[@EverydayBuilds]

Awesome! Good to hear!

[@markglabinski526]

What a great post and concept!! Thank you for sharing.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you! And you’re welcome 🤙

[@petecampa]

Box miter bit would be awesome, great joint... depending on how you're going to hang these, cutting the inside supports shorter could allow you to use a wall cleat... there are different ways in mounting these shelves... with more experience you'll figure the best possible way...

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thanks Pete!

[@mlubecke]

Thank you 🙏 for sharing…. I love your method…. Must try….

[@EverydayBuilds]

You’re welcome 👍👍👍

[@ceculver1]

Only suggestion I have without trying out is this yet…We all know walls are not straight and for my application it’s a long run. My thoughts are if that applies and you give the plywood a relief cut on the backside would allow for finer adjustments without effecting the structure. Once you know the location you could use a small washer and pencil to scribe the curvature of the wall and it would end in a better fit. With a bit of sanding of course. At least that’s what makes sense and my head and hope I explained the thought process clearly. Now to Amazon to buy the bit. 🍻

[@EverydayBuilds]

You are exactly right and I do that exact thing. I explain it in detail in this video 👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5Isi=8gSMm9QulW1_U7GH

[@letsRegulateSociopaths]

definite improvement. Vast improvement. Nice work.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you Ryan!

[@e.t.preppin7084]

I take it that went in a corner. You only finished one end. What about the mounting bracket 🤷🏼‍♂️. I’m definitely curious. I occasionally get requests for floating shelves and have been doing solid shelves with a steel mounting frame with steel dowels and I drill the shelf to slip on the dowels.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Correct, this is a corner shelf. As far as a mounting bracket, you can either buy prefabricated metal brackets or I showed how I make my own in my other floating shelf video. I didn't want to be redundant, so I didn't show it in this video. I just wanted to focus on this new technique.

[@EverydayBuilds]

How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@mikefas5406]

Yep. I would have just cut a piece for the other side instead of worrying about supports(2) inside supports inside were no different than the mounting so they are a waste of time.

[@e.t.preppin7084]

@@EverydayBuilds thanks 🙏🏻

[@dinkyshopYT]

No concern about width expansion from those interior solid wood supports? I’d be more inclined to use a plywood cut to width.

[@quietwarf1019]

Lock miter works great too. Better with solid wood both top and bottom and face. Ive found plywood cant get as good of a seam especially if the bit has been used a few times. But yea look into a lock miter bit.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Great, thanks!

[@amdenis]

Great video, and wonderful instruction. Just wanted to mention, based on the glue joint you showed on the bit, it is possible that your under-table router is a little bit non-square. Could be something else (unsteady feed, etc), but the extra slop is sometimes caused by alignment issues.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Awesome! Thank you for the advice 😁

[@thenext9537]

This is actually pretty common, at least for me. That Bosch but I’ve used a ton! Great for if you have some thinner long boards are move a bit and just want to nice straight glue up with trying to do dowels or luxury dominoes. I’ve tried it on 8/4 and 12/4 much harder to deal with that! Basically, the day of milling you have to put them together - or they move on you and I’m not a fan as I like 1-2 days acclimation. I’ve done shelves like this, cabinets, I did a hollow mantle (it was painted so didn’t want to waste so much wood). I’ve done floors with it, just not large areas though as a tongue and groove is more than enough.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Awesome! Sounds like you have a ton of experience with this technique. And it sounds like I can use this bit for applications, which is great. Thanks for sharing 😁

[@thenext9537]

@@EverydayBuilds It is great - but as you said you have to play with it and every time the piece thickness changes you have to commit to it. I think the learning curve on it is a little high because as you flip and run it you run into 'oops that wasn't right direction, crap gotta run the table saw to get a straight edge to do it again...crap I am out of walnut. Crap, 20$ a board foot? Really, I just need like 6 more. Ugh, ok fine!!' lol, the struggle is real.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Haha 😂 I’m familiar with that nightmare

[@OVHabitats]

This is an awesome build. I have been doing floating shelves for years and this seems to avoid all the regular problems I have encountered. My guess is that this shelf will go into a corner. 2 questions... 1. What are you using to mount the shelves? 2. How would you mount an open wall shelf with both sides finished?

[@EverydayBuilds]

I either use prefabricated metal brackets (sheppards brackets) or sometimes I like to make my own 👍

[@EverydayBuilds]

To see how I mount mine, you can check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@OVHabitats]

@@EverydayBuilds I saw this one. Do you find that the wood holds up even with no side support from a wall or cabinet?

[@EverydayBuilds]

@@OVHabitatsI have only done the wood supports if I had side wall support. Not sure I would do this method if it had no side support. I might have to test it out.

[@flyboyscott]

Nice post. I think I will give it a try. I felt your pain when you sanded through the plywood vernier. I've found a way to avoid that. I was doing a bunch of simple edge banding with 1/4" hardwood on the edge of plywood and burning through the outside more often than I care to admit. What I did to fix it was to make sure that the installed hardwood is about 1/32" proud of the plywood. I was using a flush trim bit and all I did was put down 2 layers of tape before I run the trim bit along the edge and when the tape is removed the hardwood is just above the plywood. I believe you did the same thing in your process by designing your hardwood to be slightly proud of the plywood. At this point what I do is to run a pencil mark around the plywood surface where the plywood meets the hardwood. It's very easy because the hardwood sticks up slightly by design and your pencil just runs along the corner. Now, when you sand the plywood, you just sand the hardwood down until the pencil is gone. Then you stop sanding there and move on. Since I've been using this method I've NEVER blown through a vernier since. Give it a try.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thanks for the great tip! I will definitely be using that 👍

[@jonputnam5745]

I think the only thing i would have maybe done differently is apply a hardwood veneer to the plywood just to make it look completely like hardwood. It also helps a little come sanding time.

[@behari5]

Awesome video. Thanks

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thanks!

[@scotstevig]

This comment ended up being longer than I planned, so it is going to be “backwards”. The most important part is my question. The rest of the comment not critical. I am extremely impressed with what you have done. I’m fairly certain that you said that the supports on the inside of the shelf could be /should be smaller or not as thick as one would expect. Like they didn’t need to touch both the bottom plywood and the top plywood. If I understood that correctly, would you mind explaining why that is? Because I would have expected that we would want them to touch both pieces of plywood. But you clearly know what you are talking about and what you’re doing, so there must be a reason for this. The only thing I can think of is that solid wood, expands, and contracts and maybe that’s why. But I am very curious. Thank you very much. And now for what would normally be the first part of the comment/question. Awesome video, and awesome technique. It reinforces my belief that we do not need to use top-of-the-line, whatever in every part of something to make something that both looks high end and high quality, and is high end and high quality. This is a philosophy that I have primarily applied to interior design, but this is a great example of how I believe it can apply to almost anything. I am new to Woodworking. It is something I have had an interest in for most of my life, but since being an adult, I have mostly lived in cities where space simply does not allow for having a woodworking shop. I wish I would have heard of a makerspace sooner than I did, but I am grateful that I discovered them a couple of months ago, and even more grateful that Salt Lake City has at least two or three. For anyone who is not familiar with what I makerspace is, I would highly recommend googling the term, especially if you are someone like myself, who, for whatever reason it is not practical to have your own set up. In fact, I’m sure one could make the argument that a makerspace would be a better option than setting up your own shop, for most people. At least the one that I joined is basically like a co-op. The members have 24 hour seven days a week access to a ton of tools and machines in almost every area you can think of. Sorry about the long comment. I am still in the phase of excitement, and really hoping as many people as possible can learn about these places because they are a win win, win for everybody. To be clear, you can still buy your own tools, which I have been doing more than I thought I would. I guess I am a typical guy who gets excited about tools.

[@nathanroberts4649]

Great video. I saw you are using the Woodpecker Paolini pocket rule. I work for Greg Paolini in NC, the guy who designed that product. 🤘🤘

[@EverydayBuilds]

That’s awesome! Yeah, I love that thing! I actually lost the first one I bought and had to buy a second, lol

[@redgum1340]

Nice.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thanks!

[@andymitchell368]

mitre joint is a mitred joint . mitre fold is a technique used to secure a mitre joint . quality work fella

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you 🙏

[@Mike-eq9xs]

I like watching your videos and getting the great build tips. You do fantastic work..If I was making these videos (which I'm not) I'd conciser adding in a safety disclaimer and recommend using some type of push blocks..Pushing that face over the router, your fingers are really close to that bit. Someone with little experience using a router table might not be so mindful of the dangers. If that piece of wood grabs or jumps, serious injury is very possible. I didn't read through all the 350 comments to see if already addressed, but hopefully this will help someone. Again, great videos and I get a lot out of them.

[@EverydayBuilds]

You are 100% correct, I should have absolutely been using push blocks. And you are not the first to point that out. Thank you for taking the time to make sure everyone is being safe 🙏

[@blaster-zy7xx]

Loved it, thanks. One question: You have CA glue and accelerator, why didn’t you use that in the edge miter instead of taping and waiting a couple of hours? One of the tricks I learned a long time ago was to CA my miters and move on. It saves a lot of time.

[@EverydayBuilds]

That is definitely an option, but I just don’t trust CA as a long term glue as much as I trust titebond. But that is really just personal preference. Thank you!

[@richardlug6139]

@@EverydayBuilds You could use both in the joint two small spots of ca glue, the rest of the joint use titebond. Best of both worlds.

[@TheBillPayingHobbyists]

Looks good. Definitely gives a cleaner look in my opinion. Keep it up and thanks for the video. Subscribed!

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you! 🙏

[@acerjuglans383]

I would highly recommend using at least one feather board on your router table, when running your material through. You really don't want any drifting or flexing for the particular operation you're doing.

[@EverydayBuilds]

I agree, I definitely should have set one up. I will in the future. Thank you 👍

[@jackdelancey248]

After 45+ yrs as a cabinetmaker miter folding is standard in the industry. In veneer, melamine, laminate, you name it it’s miter folded. Your system with 1/2 ply and solid nose is the method I use for myself at home.

[@Ricks2Cents]

*So how are you mounting it to the Wall?*

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video to see how I mount them 👍 How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@Ricks2Cents]

@@EverydayBuilds Thanks!!!

[@dpmeyer4867]

nice

[@EverydayBuilds]

😁

[@Cpt_Adama]

A featherboard is your friend on those hardwood pieces.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Completely agree! 👍

[@2tart]

Firstly, I want to say thank you for sharing this amazing video! I enjoyed watching it! Secondly, PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR FINGERS ON THE ROUTER TABLE! All it takes is 1 tiny accident, whether your fence wasn't secured or a kickback happens, anything could lead to a disaster. Sorry to be this random negative guy online but i actually enjoyed your video and would like to watch more! so be careful lol.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you and I completely understand. You are not the first to mention that and you are correct. I will definitely be using feather boards in the future 👍

[@slavikpotafiy5175]

Thank you

[@EverydayBuilds]

You’re welcome!

[@bobbg9041]

When using this type of router bit but keep the same setup, you can tape a split spacer board to each side of your fence and back the part away from the finnish size so your not making such a deep cut in one pass, you will get better results taking a shallow pass the last cut. This can be done like the turret depth stop on a plung router only making the fence the plung surface. I've never done this its just something I think could be handy if your making a lot of part and dont want to keep making setup changes you change the cutting depth with shims on the fence. This would work with most router bits it might even work for a lock miter bit. I want to make shelfs that have constant wood grain on all sides a 6 sided shelf no end grain 5 sides match the grain pattren and I do not mean stright grain. And no end grain showing

[@EverydayBuilds]

Great tip! Thank you!

[@xaytana]

This is almost exactly how production hollow floating shelves are made, though the profile of the bit varies depending on style, one of which uses what looks like crown molding on the sides for a slanted edge and visually slimmer look, slants on the sides means the tooth profile of the lock needs to adjust to the slant; though I'm sure these production units use a molding head on a table saw rather than a router bit. There's a variation of this bit for locking miters that works in the same way, but instead of a cylindrical center it uses a slanted center with a slant to the locking teeth. There's also a similar miter-rabbet profile on a circular saw blade that someone made a number of years ago that Rockler bought out, it's called the miter fold I think, the blade cuts just shy of poking through the veneer layer with the V portion of the cutter and the flat rabbet portion cuts that mating thickness into the same cut, you're supposed to be able to make a five-sided box in four cuts.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Good to know! Thank you 🙏

[@ldiajvclxizo]

Nice

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thanks!

[@hskrgrad]

Wish I had a router table to try this. One question. Is there a good reason not to use matching solid 1x material on the top and bottom? Or is it just cost? I don't have a table saw and working with large sheets of veneered plywood is a pain.

[@EverydayBuilds]

It's really just a cost thing mostly. If i was going to use 1x for the top and bottom, I might as well just make solid wood shelves at that point. But making them this way with 1x would be a great shelf, just pricey.

[@repairman2be250]

Nice video, thanks. At around minute 9 I do not like how you waste blue painters tape. It is way to expensive.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Lol 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@jack91522]

How do you mount that to the wall?

[@EverydayBuilds]

You can either buy prefabricated brackets or make your own. In my video “How I build floating shelves”, I show how to do it 👍

[@EverydayBuilds]

How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@DavidHodgesKU11]

There are router bits that do that same thing but as a mitre. FYI. I have one somewhere....

[@EverydayBuilds]

Yeah, it’s called a miter lock, but my goal is to avoid the mitered corner. And lol, I’m sure it’s somewhere… 😂

[@davewmck]

I assume this is for a corner mount? Are there any shelf install videos?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Correct, corner shelf 👍 If you want to see my install process, check this video out kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@BWreSlippySlope]

All you need is 2 1/2 lap mortise on the front piece and half lap on the solid wood on top and half lap ply on bottom. Bottom isnt seen as much but the top being sold means no problem with veneer, and will take wear, be refinished easily. Do the sides the same with cut 45 degrees along with the front. Glue up and done, It will look like one people of wood. You can knock out a ton of them. Same as mantels. Strong joints and no special bit.

[@Dustywebs]

Oh wow such a good idea. It makes the shelf look so much better than a plywood front. What do you use to attach them to the wall?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you! I either mount them with prefabricated metal brackets or I make my own, which you can see me do in this video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@Dustywebs]

@@EverydayBuilds thanks for the link! That’s a nice fit and excellent on installing on tile too

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you 🙏

[@davehoward2373]

Any suggestions on how to do a big mitre on the end to connect a vertical portion? My shelf design is a C shape.

[@EverydayBuilds]

I would think a track saw would be the best way to go 👍

[@superpenguin18]

Is it possible to do this with a hand router, or you really need the stability of a router table?

[@EverydayBuilds]

I don’t think I would try it without a router table

[@RamonInNZ]

As a non-woodworking person, how are these fixed to the wall?

[@EverydayBuilds]

You can either use prefabricated metal brackets or make your own brackets like I did in the video below 👍 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@michaelcarson6744]

I use a single board (hardwood) and design 2 steel brackets that the shelf slides onto... So it's about half the weight of every one else and clean

[@EverydayBuilds]

Love it! 🙌

[@WoodUCreate]

How well does the edge/sharpness of the bit hold up to running along all the plywood? Some are better than others, but I imagine you'll need carbide edged bits to last a while.

[@EverydayBuilds]

I haven't run too much material through it yet, so I really can't say. I'll let you know once it gets more use.

[@alanaz4265]

When building these entrapped by 3 walls (niche) would you assemble in place? As walls are rarely/never square? Thanks

[@EverydayBuilds]

I would build it oversized and then scribe it or create a template to cut it to its final size.

[@bobbg9041]

2 other ways to do this. Lock miter bit, and cabnit door bit set

[@betzandragarcia141]

Can you achieve this technique with a router palm?

[@EverydayBuilds]

It would be pretty difficult and probably dangerous as well.

[@engineerMike2999]

How did you anchor the shelf to the wall?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video 👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@ginoasci2876]

use a “LOCKING MITER BIT”, and you can eliminate that 1/4” lip and still keep that joint you like. all the edges will be clean and strong. it can be used on all 45 degree miter cuts, a different but for differ thicknesses, and it can be used on the ends on your floating shelves so you don’t have to use that folding glue joint with the tape. these bits take a little time to set up but once the setup is done, you’re good yo run all your boards, and with not overlaps. no more of that sanding tile it’s smooth business. not sure if you paint or stain your floating shelves, so these locking miter joint might not work if your using plywood. that thin veneer will disappear when you router or sand the edges. you’ll eliminate the 1/4” lip, but you’ll have to paint and not stain your shelves. you can watch some videos on the licking miter joint and decide if it will work for you. at least you have another option.

[@Balenza345]

Would like to see how this is fitted to the wall.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@Balenza345]

@@EverydayBuilds Thank you.

[@craigshrimpton5765]

What did you use to mount it as a floating shelf?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video 👇 How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@monarchco]

I see an issue with this method. when you did the miter folds, you got glue squeeze out into the channel that ended up preventing the top and bottom plates from seating into the channel. If you cut away the very corner of the top and bottom plates, not enough that it'd be visible, but enough that it doesn't have to perfectly in that corner - you'd get a much better fit without needing as many clamps for glue up.

[@hkbondar]

Excellent suggestion, Jeep.

[@sloppydoggy9257]

I would use more clamps tbh

[@EverydayBuilds]

😂😂😂

[@jhkaplan]

I dont have a router table. Is there any (safe) way to do this with a handheld router?

[@EverydayBuilds]

This would be very difficult to do handheld. Some sort of router table, whether you buy one or build your own jig, would be best 👍

[@tomwiggins1225]

You could have told us what bit you were using

[@EverydayBuilds]

It's in the description, but I will link it here as well. Glue Line Router Bit: amzn.to/3AwBOgu

[@slavikpotafiy5175]

What kind of router bit you using ?

[@EverydayBuilds]

It’s a glue line router bit. Here’s a link to the one I use in the video 👇 amzn.to/3AwBOgu

[@papapsadventures6119]

How'd you mount it?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@reedb.7065]

Great video, could you post info on the glue but you used for the router?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Not sure I understand. But the glue is used was titebond ll 👍

[@reedb.7065]

Sorry about that, I was trying to say, information on the glue joint router bit. I was wondering where you purchased it and some more specific info on which one to buy.

[@EverydayBuilds]

No worries! I got it on amazon. Heres a link to it amzn.to/3AwBOgu

[@michael.schuler]

Featherboards increase both accuracy and safety, also reduce stress...

[@EverydayBuilds]

Agreed! I will definitely be doing that next time. Thank you 👍

[@michael.schuler]

@@EverydayBuilds Decades ago, I cleaned up blood and my mentor's fingertips from a Unisaw. I've been a religious adherent to the use of featherboards ever since --- and still have all ten digits after 50 years at the trade to show for it. Just takes a millisecond of bad "luck"...

[@JmanRx81]

So many clamps on one little shelf. 😆

[@EverydayBuilds]

That’s why you can never have too many clamps, lol 😂

[@dicekar]

Man that left hand on the miter cut it looked very close

[@EverydayBuilds]

🤙

[@keithbernstein7436]

How mount on the wall?

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video for mounting 👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5I

[@rickoliver4333]

Why isn’t the back of the shelf used as a mounting bracket? Just screw it in place on the wall, then glue and support it? Only downside is then the shelf is there forever unless you want to destroy the shelf

[@EverydayBuilds]

What do you mean by “back of the shelf”?

[@JeffApel]

I'm a little confused as to how you then mount it to the wall

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video for mounting 👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5Isi=FXhzp-pYueenROya

[@JeffApel]

Will do! Thanks@@EverydayBuilds

[@ДартВейдер-з4э]

👌👍🤝🤝😎

[@EverydayBuilds]

🤙🤙🤙👊😉

[@tylercousins7779]

How to take a simple construction method and make it complex for no reason at all.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Yeah, why try anything new ever 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@tylercousins7779]

@@EverydayBuilds I have those glue line bits. The time wasted didn’t result in a better product. Time is money. Spending an extra 15-20 minutes on set up for a 30 minute job wasn’t worth it. The results in the end are exactly the same. Great job on continuing the grain around the miter corner. That came out perfect 👍🏼.

[@EverydayBuilds]

I get it from a business perspective, but if I’m making them for myself, this is the method I would use every time 👌

[@rayleblanc7209]

That's a clamp nightmare. If you knew my trick for getting perfect miters on the table saw you would only need masking tape as your clamping device. Don't use crap blue or green tape. They don't have the holding power and just tear when you fold. You need to get the better thicker masking tape available from paint suppliers. The better quality masking tape will stretch and not tear when you fold.

[@EverydayBuilds]

I anticipate the clamping strategy will be better next time, lol

[@mechanicalcanvas]

So whats your trick?

[@russhenry8112]

Please use a push stick and save you fingers

[@EverydayBuilds]

Will do 👍👍👍

[@xycho351]

New school carpenters making simple furniture way too complicated. Most floating shelfs are no thicker than 1.75 inches. A solid piece of wood cut to dimension and sanded no planer or jointer needed. And you got urself much nicer and legit wood shelves

[@EverydayBuilds]

Are you saying that an 8/4 piece of lumber just comes flat and ready to sand?

[@xycho351]

@@EverydayBuilds most wood places have milled boards (hence 1.75)...and hey if they dont they got themselves rustic 2" shelves thats whats hot right now

[@EverydayBuilds]

Lol, that’s fair. But you would still have to drill the support locations and mill out a recess in the back. So I really don’t think the way I showed is that much more complicated. But I agree, solid wood shelves are the best way to go 👍

[@mickelion6198]

I 45 my floating shelves and I wouldn’t change my way for yours

[@EverydayBuilds]

What ever works best for you 👍

[@anthonysloman]

You thought of it 🤔

[@EverydayBuilds]

I think so 🤔

[@ejrupp9555]

Today, good glues are stronger than the wood. Stop wasting time with fancy miters. If you are not fixing a grain issue with a spline or mechanical fastener, you aren't making it any stronger. Long grain to long grain has been use for sailboat mast for years. .

[@EverydayBuilds]

I’m not sure how this applies to what I did. What exactly are you referring to?

[@ejrupp9555]

@@EverydayBuilds Your title says "This will change the way you build floating shelves FOREVER." No, it won't. People get baited into looking at these kind of videos thinking that something new has come out. When it turns out to be the same old same ole, you get frustrated that you wasted your time watching it. Not saying you did a terrible job. Just that your method is in no way superior or faster to warrant the title. Keep doing what ya doing, have fun, just maybe don't click bait with BS.

[@Mushaway-wv7hq]

is there a finish....the best part...lol

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check out this video for that 👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqCpqKGvbNl3eLssi=SCKbEMpEG7cTVdAN

[@jnet59]

Almost anybody can build a box. You never showed how you hung it on the wall. That’s what sets a floating shelf apart.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Check this video out to see how I mount them 👇👇👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIm8gpSrZ5Vlr5Isi=V1Nia3KejWBsVvRK

[@stephencarrier6465]

Why not just use solid plank for your floating shelf instead of six days of labor? You are basically making a fake plank anyway.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Cost mostly. And solid planks still require labor (planing, jointing, boring). Solid plank is less labor, but higher material cost. Both are great options though 👍

[@Jeremy-us3yr]

Step one: have router

[@EverydayBuilds]

Yes, this is a vital step, lol

[@scotthelms3506]

Nice shelves but you turned a 45 min project into 4 hours making the customer pay for extra time. You don’t like ca glue and spray ?

[@EverydayBuilds]

It definitely didn’t take me 4 hours, lol. I love CA glue. Why?

[@wizardmaster6639]

no

[@EverydayBuilds]

ok

[@robira1313]

Too complicated for me. I'll stick with the conventional way.

[@EverydayBuilds]

👍👍👍

[@SRG-Learn-Makers]

clickbaity title

[@EverydayBuilds]

In what way?

[@robertbutler8004]

Very nice. but a bit pedantic

[@EverydayBuilds]

I understand, it’s just the way I’m wired 😁

[@kalegallarde6369]

Nope sure didnt change the way i do it nice try though

[@EverydayBuilds]

🤷🏻‍♂️

[@BearMeat4Dinner]

Go get yourself a thick piece of wood!! And some live edge! - Get tit up there

[@EverydayBuilds]

Lol, that is definitely the best option. But not always the most cost effective 👍

[@mattyb0705]

Awesome method! If I had a router table I would definitely invest in one of these bits. I hope your business takes off by surprise, cause we need more people like you in this world. As a woodworker myself, I congradulate you on everything you work so hard for. :)

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thanks Matt! Much appreciated!

[@hman000000]

I have a very similar bit amd have yet to get it to work on a 90 between 2 pieces couldnt figure out the depths.. this video gave me a direction to go to figure it out,,,, thanks. great video

[@steeve-shaunfabre6918]

You just gained a big fan. Love the way you break it up and explain this. All of it. As a teacher (Montréal, Canada), I can tell you you have a very good way of explaining things to make them easy to understand. Keep it up. 👍🏽

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you! 😁

[@PaganWizard]

5:25 feather boards can be your friend. Use 2 of them, one on either side of your router bit. 6:38 to make your cuts less stressful on your router, and safer for you, don't go full depth on your first cut, especially with hardwoods. With this bit, make your first cut at about 50%, and then make a second pass at 100% depth, or you can make it even safer by breaking it up into thirds.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you 🙏 I will definitely be using feather boards in the future

[@gamercs21]

This "what not to do" looked very close to "I had an accident..." Safety first is the answer here.

[@marcodhaene]

I used a solid piece of wood, drilled two long holes for the supports and 2 tiny holes in the bottom to secure them. This solution has way more options as far as dimensions go so good idea 💡

[@EverydayBuilds]

Awesome, thanks Marco!

[@PO-17087]

You make me feel like I could make these! 😁 This video is so easy to understand, and I love how the real wood edge looks. It’s beautiful!

[@EverydayBuilds]

Thank you!

[@smooth_ops2942]

This takes way to long to glue up to be honest... Miter all the edges and then just round over with something and 220 sandpaper to finish... Done.

[@EverydayBuilds]

Why is everyone in such a hurry?