Which Wire Connectors Should You Use?

[@artyzinn7725]

The first time I saw a Wago connector and tested it, i was sold particulary since it has all the right agency approvals too and used for decades in Europe. As a homeowner, my repair needs are spotty, and this provided rapid to do, and undo, quality connections, UL approved and next to no training required. The real challenge I find is to insure its not counterfeit, when buying it from say, Amazon over DigiKey, authorized distributors matter here and the difference per item is only in the 10-30c a piece.

[@feargach2107]

Excellent and clearly explained. Thank you for clearing up a lot of confusion in a scientific and detailed way.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet, happy to help!

[@jankuehl4207]

When I've searched the internet on wire nutting solid and stranded wire here is what I've always found for advice: If you hold the ends of solid and stranded wire even with each other while you screw on the wire nut connector, the stranded wire will often wrap loosely around the solid wires, resulting in a loose connection. The problem is easy to prevent by extending the ends of all stranded wires about 1/8 in. So I think you need to give the wire nuts one more try since you led with the solid instead of the stranded.

[@marknicholson6002]

Exactly what I came to say. I'm an electrician and always lead with the stranded.

[@howtodoitdude1662]

I’ve been trained by my brother electrician. Always did it this way with great results for over 40 years.

[@bradbeck2601]

His point was that a DIY guy wouldn't have the experience or knowledge to use them correctly. I've already seen a couple comments from pros that said they have to be even when inserted, which might work most of the time but still leaves room for error. He should have identified the correct way to install them for anyone watching that doesn't know though.

[@nathanrains875]

Id came to say lead with the standard wire as well im only a dyier

[@surgemas]

This is why electrical work should only be done by a competent electrician. I used to work with "electricians" who didn't understand why their AFCI kept tripping when they turned something on. 1. Didn't read the instructions, 2. Didn't know how it works, 3. Weren't properly trained. The worst thing is that they think they know what they're doing just like this guy. I definitely wouldn't want to have a large window AC running on this type of connector anywhere in the circuit. But I would with a properly installed Wirenut.

[@dennisryeater9047]

This is a cool wire holder. I have used for years with the old wire nuts and never did like them. I think I will change for good I change all of the old wire nuts from my home

[@DavidSmith-ez4vv]

As a DIYer I have switched to using Push Ins because that is the only alternative to wire nuts that I knew about. If I had known about the WAGO's I would have been using them long ago. I have used wire nuts since I was eleven years old working for my dad. I found them to be difficult to use, especial for how little I use them now a days.

[@mce377]

Thank you very much, with you information it prevented me from doing a dangerous connection. It made me discover the Wago lever connectors.

[@marksheltonswork7848]

I’ve been in the electrical industry since 1976. Regarding wire connections the most important principle is a tight connection. A wire that can be moved after inserted in a connector is not a good connection. This is more important the higher the current. Wire nut connections are the best out of the three you gave as an example. To a trained electrician who knows how to use a wire nut, it is the best for device box make up. Simple and always align the ends of each wire evenly and twist the wire nut even before it touches the wires. You will see that the pull test will prove this the best. Also know how much to strip your wire. The surface of each wire in a wire nut has more contact with each other wire making a much better connection and more solid. Twisted wire has been around since there has been wire. Electrical or not. It has been and will be the best none bolted or compressed wire connection because of more surface contact. These points are very important when considering current. I have tried WAGOs in the past and found that it was a mistake and replacement was necessary. WAGOs are easier to install and that saves time. That maybe why your pro survey showed that almost half use them. I will never use the common WAGO again. In using a WAGO use the wire turn test. After the wire is inserted into a WAGO, turn the wire and see if it turns. If it does than you can be sure it’s a bad connection. Especially if used on or near a homerun that can draw 12 amps or plus. Try the test on the 210 connector. Still the wire surface contact in a WAGO or a 210 is zero. Only a small portion of the wire comes in contact with the connector. In other words you are relying on the connector to pass current from one wire to another. You will find on a high current wire will develop carbon and that will compound the bad connections. Push in receptacle connections are the same and should never be used to pass current to another wire. To back up what I’m saying I will refer you to a receptacle device that does not allow an insert for a grounding wire. This principle is backed in the NEC. The connection is not reliable in a ground fault. It must be under a hex nut for a tight connection. I do use the flip connectors for instrumentation wire but that is as far as I would use it now. If insets type connections are good than you would see breakers use them for wire connections. That will not happen. Regarding you philosophy regarding pro and “Joe” and a joe might find the WAGO or 210 a better connection is really muted by the fact that there is a licensed electrician. If WAGOs and 210 are used by pros than it’s only because of how cheap the contractor is and also his lack of knowledge of how to use a wire nut. I would suggest you use a disclaimer regarding encouragement of wire terminations. It may comeback at you. At least an amp check or a calculation on how much amps in the wire before using a WAGO. Another reason I use wire nuts on projects is because an electrical engineer will spec this out in his specifications. If an electrical engineer specs this out than that should also make you concerned. If you really want to do a survey than you should survey electrical engineers. You might be shocked. No pun intended.

[@jedjellison7725]

Totally agree. Wago’s suck. I will only use them for fixed lighting loads. Can’t take a wago apart, have to cut them off. On an already short conductor this is not good.

[@Fahrenheit38]

I'm so glad you said you liked the back trace method of hooking up outlets and switched. I used that style of hook ups for all the outlets I changed

[@martinalderman3941]

Nice video! One thing you didn't comment on is a comparison of the electrical quality of the connection ... the resistance added by the connection. Yes, it's probably negligible, but I'm thinking about the comparison of an RV's 'insert and twist and close lock ring' plug where the contact surfaces have much less contact surface/more resistance than the relatively new 'SmartPlug'.

[@JBoy340a]

This randomly showed up in my feed and I am glad it did. I have a small home wiring project I need to do in a few weeks. I just ordered the WAGOs and can't wait to give them a try. Thanks so much for making this video!

[@pianokeyjoe]

Ever since I saw these push in connectors included with some of my LED can lights and HALO can lights, I have been buying and using them exclusively for most of my solid copper wire projects. Wire nuts are needed for stranded or too thin solid copper wires.

[@mrjakobt]

You can use Wago 221 for that.

[@whogavehimafork]

Not an electrician but im an industrial maintenance tech and I do a lot of electrical work. First time I encountered wagos was on the job in the pump motor of a thermolator unit and I was instantly sold. Unfortunately, I dont get to set our budget so we have to use wire nuts. Wagos are my preference but because they're notoriously rare the push-in connectors are naturally a close second for diy use. Sometimes stranded wire doesn't like to cooperate with them and bunches up even if it's tightly twisted but maybe that's user error or perhaps a result of the wire gage, plus they're WAY easier to find.

[@Faddnn]

We stopped using wirenuts at least 15 years ago in Norway. Wago or other trusted brands are the only thing we use these days.

[@vwlukas]

That’s basically the case with every country other than the US. It’s like paying with checks, no one other than Americans uses them since the 80s lol 😂

[@natevirtual]

would you mind telling us the other trusted brands please?

[@Faddnn]

@@natevirtual hellermanntyton is a brand we have been using without any problems.

[@natevirtual]

@@Faddnn thank you so much!

[@game-wiz1]

@@vwlukas the reason why is because people are allowed to sell or buy what they prefer. You can't ban the use of wire nuts if they still work fine as an alternative.

[@aragonesorlan]

You just educated me..wago 221 lever nut is what I will use from now on.

[@genghisbunny]

In Australia, we have screw-type junctions, but Wago levers are just more reliable and quicker.

[@GoalOrientedLifting]

I agree, and the extra cost is saved cause they're way faster to use.

[@ilanmagen]

The main reason we use Wago 222 is re usability of the wire, wuth out cut it off the wirenut or the Push In. the 222 can be open and lock many times with no damage or need to re cut the wire.

[@T1Oracle]

Wow, I just installed some and I'm glad the ones I bought just so happened to be Wago 221's! What luck! 😅

[@tombrewsaugh1399]

Over my 40 years as an electrician I mostly use wire nuts. When you have multiple wires to connect in a box wire nuts take up far less room and are easier to fold into place. One place I found a great use for the lever type connection is when replacing ballast in florescent fixtures. When we started changing out all our government buildings from the old T 12 lamps to the T 8 with the electronic ballast I feel the lever connecters made the job faster and easier. I have used them in a few other applications as well

[@KendalMike]

I'm curious why Americans use the term 'lever nut'. They're not nuts and aren't turned or screwed like a nut ;-) In the UK, we don't use wire nuts and haven't for decades. The advantage of lever connectors is that there is no cable damage when having to disconnect and reconnect. With twisted wires, it's often necessary to trim the wire before reconnecting, which frustrating when there isn't much spare wire. Lever connectors make life easier for repairs, fault finding and alterations. Before the popularity of Wago connectors, we used screw terminal connectors which are more electrician-friendly than wire nuts in my opinion.

[@n1umj]

I use wire nuts but the primary reason is my father was a huge DIY person and when he passed I got boxes and boxes of them he had around, my father-in-law passed a few years ago and in stuff his father left him were boxes and boxes more. Likely I have enough of them to last me the rest of my life so I stick with them because I have so many but I want to try the wago ones so maybe my next project I will try them just for the fun of it. I've never heard of the wago ones until now and they look very interesting and easy.

[@Tommy-vj2mc]

For low amp usage you're probably fine using wire nuts (LED lamps etc.). For higher amperage I would recommend Wago.

[@johnh8546]

I put these in the exact opposite order. Wire nuts have the lowest internal resistance, in sure is in the middle either way, and Wagos have the most. So from an efficiency stand point wire nuts take the win. They also win on cost. The only area they suffer in is ease of use. They arent hard to use but there is more of an art to using them, but for the cost savings and better electrical contact they are the go to for anything carrying line current. I will say I us Wagos for low amperage things that may need to be changed out. Such as lighting and ceiling fans. That's about all they are well suited for in US 120v systems.

[@davidstadelman9525]

I agree price is a problem on the lever

[@mikejoyce7157]

My OCD brain kinda avoids the "push-in" style. The reason....a round wire contacting a flat plate has very little actual contact "patch". Like a car tire and the pavement. This means that all of the current is going through a tiny contact area. As compared to a wire nut where the contact "patch" is a whole lot more when it is installed properly. I'm open to your thoughts.......

[@walterbrunswick]

solid wire becomes brittle when you twist it around due to cold working we really should not be using solid wire anywhere, there are many flaws, including kinking, brittleness after cold working, and 'skin effect'

[@nbnvideo]

I retrofitted a commercial building, removing fluorescent tubes and ballasts and then replacing them with direct-wire LED tubes. Wago lever nuts were THE KEY to the job. With WAGO lever nuts I could strip one wire and put it in the lever nut. Then I could strip the second wire and put it in the lever nut. Then I could install an LED tube and test that it worked. Then I could add more wires and install more tubes until I had as much light as was needed in that location. Many tombstones in these old fixtures were bad so I did trial and error to find the tombstones that worked. This required repeatedly connecting and disconnecting wires. With twisty nuts this just does not work. Now consider that I did all this work on top of a ladder sometimes leaning over a desk, so installing one wire at a time was SO MUCH EASIER than aligning all of the wires at once and then twisting a nut on to it. Don't even talk to me about push-in connectors; they work badly with the 16 gauge and 18 gauge wire found in these old fluorescent fixtures and they don't work with stranded wire at all! If not for Wago nuts all of the 300 fixtures in the building would still be using old fluorescent tubes instead of LED's. Better light. No mercury. Money saved. Greenhouse gasses reduced. Win-Win-Win!

[@KingKatura]

3:25 That's why i always tape it up after so it can't come undone. I've never seen the other things i'll have to look into them.

[@bigchew3149]

i would not call myself a pro but i have done electrical from a young lad maybe 10 yo & i have wired houses grages & buildings as well as service entry's to swapping out a meter bases and breaker panels so take it for what ya will But i still like the good ole wire nut better than any of them & i trust it ..but maybe im to old fashiond ! !

[@81MrKMan]

I always lead on the wire nut with the stranded wire slightly ahead of the solid and it holds tight.

[@paulsto6516]

BINGO!

[@AnthonyPerez]

The other plus is that most don’t know with wire nuts you must cut the wire once you take it off and make a new stripped connection. That is a problem if you change out switches more than a few times. The wire in the wall will need to be replaced eventually if I’m not mistaken. So maybe over time cost is a non issue. Another person tested the heat and it was about the same so a non issue I guess.

[@paulsto6516]

I have redone quite a few wire nut connections without having to cut wires.

[@renatovenuto296]

Great stuff I will start using wago 221

[@jimwright7957]

on a ladder, light fixture are a stranded wire #14 or smaller, a wago is the best.

[@275ivan]

Do the videos placement of wires and vago in the creative box ,squere box,,,,so nice as possible...

[@monteclark1115]

In the wire nut, the stranded wire should lead the smaller wire.

[@000302lf]

You are correct that the stranded wire will not connect correctly if you leave it short!! The correct way to make that connection is to make the stranded wire just longer than the solid wire then as you tighten the wire nut the stranded wire will wrap around and hold securely. Apprentice instructor for 51 years.,,,

[@keithharrington8715]

Wire nuts....the pros are use to them I do not recommend working anything energized or hot, but at home, there might be a "helper" trying to get that breaker on without you knowing. Stab-ins.....allow the hot to be capped (hot wire hot with serious effort required to touch bare wire,) and other wires added. But, removing the wire will cause some damage and it is often easier to cut the stab-in off and start with new one. Wago''s....provides the same protections as stab-in's without the wire damage or shrinkage due to removal. So, for pros, wire nuts from the contractor. For the diyer/once a year person, wago's. Now, I recognize that opinions are like butt-cracks, everyone has their own and some stink more than others. This was mine.

[@SwainJamie]

Question for anyone that knows the answer, do the Wago connectors support mixing aluminum & copper connections? I have aluminum wiring in my home and need to pigtail some copper in to add an exterior receptacle.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

The standard Wago 221 will not support mixing aluminum and copper at the connector. Here is Wago's stance www.wago.com/us/electrical-installers/practical-tip-connecting-aluminum-and-copper-conductors

[@JSLEnterprises]

The morret (wire nut) is only a good option? The wire nut only really is to act as a cover after you twist the wire pair with your linemans pliers, at least two complete twists along the stripped ends. It holds the twists in place, it does NOT make the connection between wires. Any push on or lever action connector DOES NOT ALLOW the wires themselves to touch, this causes impendace and point of failures. The morret (wire not) does not do this, because you are twisting together the wires befores adding the wire nut. If you're just adding the wire nut without twisting the wire pair (as per code), you are inviting the same failure you'd have with the push on. So your Goot better best with the wire nut being at the bottom, is ass backwards. Twisting together solid and braided wires, twist your braid, add a kink to the solid, and twist with linemans the same way you'd twist two solid core wires. they will wrap together securely.

[@switchoff64]

I like your vids cuz they’re very educational. However I think it would be a better experience if you bought and used a mic. Audio quality while watching isn’t the best.

[@FTfilm]

Wago is love, Wago is live.

[@paulsto6516]

Get a room.

[@Wolfensptz]

If you are only going to be doing a few stranded wire connections why not TIN the wire? Thinner gauge stranded wires can fail so I always TIN them!

[@MatthewBerginGarage]

I have used wire nuts for 40 years without an issue. I have already found those plastic clips melted from high resistance connections. Won't use them on any wiring I do.

[@kjholbrook3749]

Can you use these for wall oven connections where the junction box is in the back of the oven box?

[@yeliab814]

The WAGO are neat and I like using them for mocking up and prototyping equipment. But the connection has way too much extra resistance compared to a wire nut or crimp splice. I know UL is satisfied with WAGOs, but they aren't paying for all the wasted power used in heating up the connections all over my house for the next 20 to 30 years . If a WAGO ever comes out that has equivalent electrical performance, I will gladly pay 10x for it

[@neplatnyudaj110]

Could you quantify that "too much extra resistance"? There are videos comparing overloaded wagos and wirenuts and there doesn't seem to be any more heating in wagos.

[@yeliab814]

@@neplatnyudaj110 It's very small but if you do the math, a house full of these could burn upwards of an extra megawatt over thirty to forty years . most scientific video i've seen is here : kzbin.info/www/bejne/qH6Xg6B9r9Oafs0 wirenut had negligible temperature rise but wago 221 had 6 °C rise . About 8mV extra drop at 18A . Tiny but adds up. Fine for rework but maybe not new construction. I prefer Wago 222 over 221 and they seem to test better (though i think he's using knock-off 222's in the test)

[@neplatnyudaj110]

@@yeliab814 Thanks, haven't seen that one before. So that's about 500 µΩ, which is not bad. I really doubt you could waste a MWh on these. Based on that video, a single connector wastes about 0.01% of power. Let's say you have 5 connectors on average between breaker and load, so you waste 0.05%. In order to waste 1 MWh over 30 years, your consumption would have to be about 70 MWh/year. I agree that properly installed wirenuts have better electrical connection, but I would choose wago any time as I think they are less prone to failure and easier to work with. P.S. Do you know what else has 500 µΩ resistance? Three inches of #14 copper wire.

[@yeliab814]

@@neplatnyudaj110 all fair points. a megawatt would be extreme, but i use 39Mw / year at a large NYC residential loft . Definitely been focused on upsizing wire due to heating and good connections etc. and getting more efficient equipment which is a challenge as only commercial HVAC equipment is suitable due to indoor ceiling mounted condensers pulling in outdoor air and pushing it out etc. no mini splits option here .. properly installed wire nuts will basically never fail - I've never seen it in a legit professionally wired site. but for diy and homeowners who don't have linesman's pliers and don't install and tape them properly, with far too little torque, I would have to agree with you that that the lever nuts are compelling!.

[@neplatnyudaj110]

@@yeliab814 Wow. I use electricity for everything including heating in an old uninsulated flat right under roof and I use about 11 MWh.

[@goldenboy5500]

video blogger John Ward did a good comparison with Wago Vs Chinese knockoffs

[@carlcat11]

I've seen that too and mentioned it in my comment.

[@marcelinoramos4580]

Thank you

[@dlaofmad2142]

Why aren't the bus bars in the 221s made of copper - less chance of oxidation development?

[@proislam1447]

Wrong, copper is easy oxidated. Did you ever weld it with tin without flux?

[@1869Felix]

DIYer push ins

[@SlothMentality]

Electrician of 15 years here. Never use push ins, you are recommending an inferior product. They fail CONSTANTLY. Nearly any rotation compromises the connection. WAGO brand connectors are a good alternative to wire nuts but I genuinely can’t fathom why you are recommending push ins.

[@proislam1447]

Wire nuts fail by system. Any screw nut combination fails with temperature change or vibration without spring lever or glue. Wire nuts are inferior unsafe devices only used by medieval agricultural societies like US. Other world uses hightech german WAGO world market leader

[@SlothMentality]

@@proislam1447 the fuck did this have to do with America?

[@dougmorgan510]

I have had those push on connectors melt before so beware using them on big load circuits. Just my 2 cents.

[@GunWodan]

These wire nuts give me anxiety... never seen them around here, the pre-Wago solution used to be dual-screw-terminal connectors.

[@sebastiand152]

Yes, in Germany as well.

[@danschenck9442]

Cqn i use wago push in connectoror lever ones in junction box? and light and plugg in out let..?

[@frost381]

Cost is King when it comes to the Electrical Trade. thus why we all still use wire nuts

[@ryannelson2211]

Agreed but but a pro has the experience to make a good connection every time. In the trade you make more connections before lunch than a diyer does all year

[@frost381]

@@ryannelson2211 Thousands a year lol. so many. Probably why our hands and wrists get pretty messed up throughout the years. Lots of twisting motions :-( lol

[@emo65170.]

Does Wago make a quick change lever connection outlet, for easy changing the color of the outlets?

[@jimmyPOUFAJones]

Stranded wire always leads the solid wire

[@themegasexybasterd]

Just got a box of the "Wago" but what I did with wire-nuts ,if it was a braid I would push it in as far as I could then put the solid in and twist till it stopped then tape it with black tape. Should the "Wago's" be taped?

[@alandaters8547]

The Wagos or push ins have a great advantage when hanging fixtures. The stranded wire from the fixture can be pushed in "on the bench". Then on the ladder you only have to push in the solid wire- very easy!

[@bruzote]

OK, you just sold me. Having a bad back and standing on a ladder, looking up, AND holding something above my head is a act of self-punishment. Being able to shorten my time in that straining position (I can't even breath normally!) is a blessing I will some extra coins for.

[@tpobrienjr]

I grew up with the plain, no-wing wire nuts, but I'm sold on the wago lever nuts. Your demo on stranded/solid wire behavior was superb. I'm a DIY guy, but also a graduate EE.

[@ErchweanEmperor]

“D-I-WIRES” Okay I’ll see myself out

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

😂

[@NorthernCommando]

HAHA, I was going to write the same thing. That's all I could think about every time he said that in the video.

[@Nesseight]

I made the same "dad joke" without reading the comments first. However, I don't actually have any children, so I apologize for the faux pas. Sorry if anyone finds this shocking.

[@charmcode]

The 221 also has test port to check without removing the wires

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Great point and thanks for calling that out. The IDEAL push in connector also has the integrated test port. 👍

[@DrHarryT]

WOW Amazing...Then again doesn't the wire nut have one at the bottom where the wires go in too?

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

222 has them too.

[@wlipman]

@@Stefan_Van_pellicom and the "grip" of the 222 versus the 221, coupled with the fact that they're more compact than the 221has me using the 222s.

[@angrydragonslayer]

@@DrHarryT do you mean reaching in and touching the wires via the bottom hole?

[@ilovefunnyamv2nd]

Just last week saw the suggestion for the wago 221, and ordered some immediately. I've got a recepticle box that I updated the switches in, so it then had 5 neutrals, and originally I had to split it into 3+(2+1) because the wirenuts could at most handle 4. It was basically impossible to stuff everything back inside. The wallplate was visibly floating off the wall where the wires bunched up and the switch bottomed out. Those wago made everything so much better, cleaner wire runs, low profile, room for 5, and it was actually possible to press it into the back of the box, by moving 5 - 14AWG wires, instead of trying to manipulate what was basically a (1/0) AWG. Sure its more expensive, but this should be in every DIY's toolbox anyway, ESPECIALLY if they plan to swap out those old toggle switches with something newer like a paddle, dimmer, timer, etc that take up more space in the box.

[@jtrthehax]

It's also worth noting that there's a maximum number of wires rated to be used inside of an electrical box due to potential heat/fire hazard. So although organizing the wires may allow you to fit everything inside the box, it may be a wiser idea to replace the box with a larger box.

[@abdulelkhatib2674]

@@jtrthehax Thats true but red and blue wire nuts are massive compared to some of those small rinky dink boxes people install.

[@bruzote]

@@jtrthehax - If you're a DIYer like me, this is a terrible idea within a home wall. The idea of taking apart any drywall (or worse, plaster or paneling) to replace a box simply multiplies the work time by a *lot*. How much spackling, sanding, spackle finishing/painting is required after you make the hole big enough to do all this? As a DIYer, I don't know how to put in a new box without radically expanding the hole, and I bet most others don't as well.

[@honzikklima6181]

EXACTLY! Maintenance/electrician for 15 years+ in America. An electrician in Europe now. Almost nobody here has heard if wire nuts. My initial prejudice was that wire nuts were superior, BUT the Wago 221 is preferable.

[@FM4AMGV]

Contractors will use the cheapest thing they can when possible. I've used Wago 222 style connectors for a long time in a commercial setting and have never had a customer have a failure with them. When you're talking stranded wires, wire nuts simply do not belong there in my opinion. For the cost of a 222 or 221, it's well worth knowing that it will hold.

[@dand3975]

I was taught to pre twist wires with needle nose plier & regular pliers, than with regular pliers tighten wire nut, tug test, than wrap wire and wire nut with quality 3m electrical tape. Not going to fail and short out a metal box. Sticky mess to take apart years later. I will give Waggo connectors a try, look like a safe product and a time saver, for lights and 20 amp outlets. Very nice way to connect more than 3 ground wires.

[@petrmaly9087]

I watched this and I must say here in central Europe I have never seen wire nuts. Our "cheap connection" is one with screws holding the wires in.

[@skynetlabs]

Yeah, but how are your taxes? Lol.

[@nope_not-showing-my-name]

Because Americans think they know better than the rest of the word. They still use mamoth 50 gallong water tank for hot water. and @S Kaye 's response above is from a typical arrogant American who think he knows better than the rest of the world.

[@skynetlabs]

@@nope_not-showing-my-name And well-insulated hot water tanks are significantly more energy efficient than on-demand units. You have tiny on-demand units because you live in tiny homes. My garage is bigger than your entire apartment, loser.

[@skynetlabs]

@@nope_not-showing-my-name We also have the ability to heat water in our storage tanks with solar ($900 for a solar conversion). Free hot water. Let's see you try that in your frozen wasteland...

[@liquidsnake6879]

In Portugal we use wirenuts everywhere in our electrical boxes, no reason to use anything else, if i got 7 grounds being wired together i either do it with a single wirenut or with 3 wagos, why would i ever bother using 3 wagos lol

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

In Belgium we stopped using wirenuts some 20 years ago. I don’t think you can buy them anymore, and using them in residential installations would be seriously frowned upon.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback Stefan, it is nice to see the difference in code and practices across other countries.

[@southerntommygun1353]

All have their pros and cons but something to keep in mind: The lever nuts may save enough in labor to make up for the cost. If you're going to use lever nuts, use Wago. They're UL listed and, if it matters to you, the 221 has a test point so you can check voltages without taking it apart. No matter what you use make sure it's rated for the amperage you're dealing with.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Appreciate the comments and feedback!

[@Steve_Edberg]

Wire nuts go on so fast that any labor savings would be negligible. Truth be told I'm not convinced the lever nut is actually any faster at all.

[@southerntommygun1353]

@@Steve_Edberg Yeah, that's probably true for someone that does it a lot. I use the lever nuts in 508A panels because most customers will pitch a blue fit if they find a wirenut in the wireway but glance over a lever nut.

[@viktormorris194]

@@Steve_Edberg little tip if you're working with solid wire, lever nuts also function as push connects. Only have to use lever function to remove wire. Saved tons of time as a filthy DIYer

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

The test point feature of the 221 is a good idea in concept but poor in execution, because the opening is too small to accommodate all DMM test probes. If you do use that feature, make sure the probe tips are narrow enough to go through the opening and contact the conductor. A lot of the probes I've tried are too wide to get through without forcing it in enough to displace the plastic. Once it's been sufficiently enlarged that way, it'll work fine. Otherwise you could get a false negative reading and think your circuit is deenergized.

[@Fudgieguys1969]

As a DIY, I found, I use the Wago221 on almost every replacement project. That is to say, replacing existing fixtures, outlets, or switches. I have an older home, and many of the electrical boxes are metal and are tight with up to two lines entering the box. Especially the switched lights and outlets. The Wago 221 is the best for tight spaces where typical wire nuts are way too bulky. I use wire nuts in new construction since many of the new electrical boxes are plastic and have more space in the box-all personal preference.

[@shenmisheshou7002]

Wago 221 is awesome. I like that they can handle wires of from 24 to 12 gauge, and that they are easy to both install and remove. For a DYI homeowner it just makes projects easier. *I also use them for hobby applications* because they are easier than soldering.

[@theGator7dot1]

In my opinion another great reason to use WAGO or even push in is the longevity of the wires. Over the years, you will inevitably change switches, receptacles, add devices, or do other things that require "unwrapping" a twist type wire nut. You can do this many times of course, but eventually, the wire either fatigues or just gets so out of shape that it has to be shortened. There isn't always enough spare length. The WAGO and push types are far less damaging to the wire itself.

[@haroldmiller8168]

How and can the push in be removed and or reused? I need to replace a fixture with push in type and it doesn't look like it is removable.

[@jamisonr]

Been using wirenuts, but as you'll see from your affiliate link, I'll be using the Wago for the rest of my needs on this project. I tried the push-in types awhile ago, and my issue was that with lighting (or other stranded wires), even if I twisted them tight, I had trouble pushing them into the push-in connectors. The lever type should reduce this headache! I hate hanging lights by the way. What an awkward working position.

[@RC-nq7mg]

Wago connectors are awesome. I even keep a handful in the "junk" drawer in my RV with the fuses for making quick electrical repairs/changes when out camping. The connectors pictured are the new design of the wago. the old ones were great too but the new ones are so much easier to use and about half the size.

[@richardschaefer4753]

I've been using wire nuts for almost 50 years as a DIY electrician. I converted to Wago 221s recently and I love them. I used all 221s to install new shop lights in my basement including a wall switch and outlet and I feel like it saved me a lot of time. Particularly when I realized I'd mis-wired the switch connection to the lights. I was able to pull the 221s out easily and fix the problem. This is a lot harder/messier when using wire nuts. (nb I learned my DIY electrical wiring up nuclear reactor control systems in my teens. Try meeting NRC code...)

[@BA-gn3qb]

Wago connectors are big space savers inside the first box of a series/chain of receptacles. And, very secure when pushing in all those extra wires.

[@chancho00]

I only use 3M Twist-On Wirenuts, the ones that come with rubber , that yellow you show from Ideal are kind of bad, but also to avoid the problem of having a bad twist connection on solid and stranded cables you always have to put the stranded cable first, like an eight of an inch, never had a pull test problem, those wago connectors usually come with every commercial light I install but the price its too expensive to consider it an option, its ok for diy'ers like you said but learn how to use wirenuts properly comes in handy.

[@slatsgrobneck7515]

Thanks for tip on connecting stranded and solid core wires with wire nuts. Appreciated!

[@andrewt9204]

I guess it depends on how many you buy, and I suppose buying from a supplier rather than a big box store can make a big difference. A 100+ pack of good wire nuts like the 3M or gorilla nuts are about 6-9cents/per. The 2 wire Wagos are only about 6 cents/per. The 3 wire ones get a little more expensive at about 8-10 cents. I've wired/re-wired a couple houses now and spending the $30-40 on all Wago connectors for an entire house was worth it IMO. The first house I did all twist-ons and it was fine, just more time consuming especially when trying to tie 4 or 5 12ga wires together. That gets so unwieldy. I actually went back later and bought a small pack of the 6 wire Wagos for those couple of junctions instead. It was hard to pass a confident pull test with the twist-ons. But now for stuff around my own house I've been slowly buying lever nuts. They're pretty great.

[@angrydragonslayer]

While i build stuff to sell as a hobby rather than full-time, i think the 4 cents extra i pay over other connectors are easily outweighed by taking less time (i spend about 1.5 hours per week on just these connectors, that would likely be 2.5 with wire nuts) and added value for the customer (rewiring a wirenut is a bit harder than most of mine would like while the wagos are super easy)

[@amrosla67]

I’m just a diy clown and only used wire nuts in the past. These Wago 221’s may cost us more upfront, ... but I look at it another way here at the ranch. If I’m going to upgrade, fix or remodel something, ... why not do it the best way??? If it cost a buck $$$$ more for an outlet/box, ... why not use it??? Let’s say a person has ten outlets/boxes in their bedroom. That’s ten extra dollars for us idiots to do something safer!!! That’s not even a twelve pack of beer!!! Don’t know about you folks, ... but I’ll sleep better knowing my loved ones are safe!!! PS: yeah a guy could just call a electrician, ... I myself have found out it’s easier to pull teeth then to get a electrician, plumber, concrete, carpenter or anyone to show. The worst is when you pay them some money down!!!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I agree, paying a bit more for materials usually pays off in the long run. Also, many people have over simplified the "call a professional." The reality is getting a professional to call back let alone successfully complete the job is a mountain to climb. In this day and age if a pro is good they have more work than could be completed in multiple lifetimes so pretty hard to get their attention.

[@sddirt6840]

If you want to burn your house down, use push in connectors

[@ilovefunnyamv2nd]

thanks for the tip, now delete this comment so the insurance can't point to the electrical fire as intentional

[@paulsto6516]

@@ilovefunnyamv2nd lol

[@bcompono]

The thing that has held me back from using the push ins more is I hadn't been certain they were acceptable by code. This answered that question. That said, as a DYI'r I'll definitely opt for a Wago since I do so much less work than a pro that the higher price isn't that much of a bite.

[@t0kinl3lunts]

Got a multi-pack of WAGO 221 when installing some lights. They were by far the easiest way to join the high-gauge (18 maybe) stranded wire to solid copper.

[@Edward-wr4dk]

I used wire nuts for 50 years but I'm really sold on the Wago Lever connectors. A big advantage especially when connecting 3 or more #12 wires is that the Wago takes up less space and the wire without the twist is a lot more flexible making it much easier to fit into junction boxes. The Wago Lever is a lot easier to connect additional wire, simply pop levers and install new connector with an additional port while wire nuts usually require cutting the bent up ends off and restriping and twisting.

[@Steve_Edberg]

Makes a lot of sense!!

[@myc0p]

I noticed that these levers are not designed for repetitive open/close operation. Unless Amazon is selling fakes.

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

@@myc0p I only have experience with the real thing (221 and 222), and the levers will at least handle dozens of movements !

[@myc0p]

@@Stefan_Van_pellicom I was test flipping 221 and noticed a deterioration on levers (becoming soft and one stopped working) after 50th use. Didn't see similar behavior on PCT-213.

[@PGGraham]

@@myc0p it is very possible that Amazon is selling fakes. Counterfeit products are a big problem with Amazon right now.

[@michaeldunham3385]

Your wirenuts cannot legaly be used in the UK, I fall into your pro category. Wago is becoming popular here, but the more traditional methods are connector blocks or through crimps. The crimps do require a special tool so not something a person doing DIY is likely to use.

[@jenniferstinert5498]

This is exactly the information I was looking for!. I’m a DIYer and I have to replace some fixtures in my house to get it ready to sell. I HATE wire nuts! I like the idea of having something easy but more importantly secure. The additional cost is worth the peace of mind and the safety aspect. At the end of your video, you suggest DIYers get a Wago Multipack with different sized lever nuts. If you haven’t already... could you do a video explaining what projects or applications would require the different Wago sizes... i.e: 3, 4, & 5 wire lever nut. Great video! On a side note... I have never saved so many videos from one person!

[@auletjohnast03638]

But Mickey Mouse🐭 died😢 and was buried inside a connector.

[@Mikael.formermilitary]

I was taught to use wire nuts.. I did not know about the other connectors. I will start using the Wago 221. Thanks for the information.

[@johnstancliff7328]

the key with the wire nuts and stranded wire is that the wires have to be EVEN in order for the stranded to grab.... other wise, you will have that problem, and the wire can only be stripped no longer then 1/2". even 1/4" will work when attaching a fixture...the other answer is using european terminal strips like the do there... watch some videos of how the european electricians wire a home and the way they design the wiring devices there....

[@datsun4x]

Considering that electricity flows over the surface of the wire, doesn't that still make the wire nut the best conductor since the connection has a larger surface mating area?

[@AJMansfield1]

That statement that "electricity only flows over the surface" is only true in the case of an ideal superconducting wire. Real wires with nonzero bulk resistance values can still see something similar to this, termed the "skin effect", but this only really starts to happen at much higher frequencies. But for regular copper wire at 60Hz mains frequency the skin depth is about 8.5mm, so you _do_ actually have current flow across the entire cross-section of a copper wire or bus bar as long as the actual copper is thinner than 17mm.

[@solarsynapse]

That is why a flat wire with the same amount of metal can carry more current that a round wire and a stranded wire can carry more current than a solid wire of the same gauge. Look how much current a trace on a PC board can handle. The bars in electrical disconnects and breaker panels are flat.

[@gahustad2495]

Agreed, WAGO 221 is the best option. They have become very common here in Norway too. Also consider the great benefit, where you can re-open the connections without damaging the wires. Great system.

[@xic2365]

hi since your up in the north , do you also have 220? if yes how reacts the wago to the difference 110 vs. 220 ? if its melting?

[@gahustad2495]

@@xic2365 Hello. We have 230V 50 Hz system in Norway and the continental Europe. I think there is no specific difference between voltages, it has more to do with the max current loads they can manage to handle before they melts.

[@xic2365]

@@gahustad2495 thanks 4 the replay. have a good WE

[@gahustad2495]

@@xic2365 Cheers, and the same 2U 🙂

[@jeromelandesman]

I like how easy WAGO allow you to redo connections if I made a mistake.

[@ronmiller7248]

So you save what, 15 seconds max?

[@cs_fl5048]

Agree, the push in types are a b***h to try to undo. For the occasional home DIY, a few seconds of my time is worth two bits worth of wire connector. Further, sometimes when you are pushing in stranded wire the wires crumple and don't enter well. On a stepladder with my arms up in the air I can generally one-hand a Wago. The stranded from the fixture will often clip in a Wago without having to hold it with the other hand. Flip the thumb and it's done.

[@JasonEDragon]

To generalize, WAGOs are nice because they make modifications easier over the years. Adding outlets, changing smart switches, timer switches and even replacing outlets/switches with ground screws in different positions can all be more of a hassle with wire nuts - especially when people twist the wires. Taking off wire nuts, straightening the wires, clipping off any marred copper, and then redoing the connection can take a lot of time. That and I never use wire nuts on a mix of stranded/solid wires any more.

[@ge5645]

WHAT ARE PHONO CONNECTORS , SPADE LUG , F-TYPES AND MANY MORE !!!! DIFFERENT TYPES OF CONNECTORS !!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmTPiZdnqd2ohqs

[@TheJuanSolid]

This. Can be reused. Needs to be factored in to price, unless you plan to constantly move from home to home.

[@ronduz1281]

It's all about the cost in a contractors eyes. An experienced sparky won't have an issues twisting stranded and solid wire together.

[@averyalexander2303]

I agree, but he said several times in this video that it is made for the average DIYer who doesn't have a lot of experience with wiring, and I could see how the wire nut mistake could be easy for someone inexperienced who doesn't know better. However, it is also easily avoided by positioning the wires so the end of the stranded wire is very slightly ahead of the solid wire so the wire nut securely screws onto both.

[@christianlibertarian5488]

An interesting trade off for a sparky is time vs. cost. The push in type save time. If your cost of labor is $100/hr, you may do better with push ins. You would have to time yourself for each one.

[@evanweigel1386]

As an electrician, a wire nut that has been twisted with a linesmans is the best long term connection

[@jimgallagher6310]

Scott, I picked up some Wago connectors from Amazon and used them when replacing a couple of switches and dimmers. I love them and will not use wire nuts again. Maybe a little more expensive but well worth it. This is especially true I think for the home DIYer that doesn't need all that many. For an electrician I can see the cost may be more prohibitive. Thanks again for the great review!!

[@natevirtual]

Be careful getting them from Amazon though, they have sold counterfeits in the past

[@gregsmith7391]

@@natevirtual Wow. Fake cardboard box and everything?

[@natevirtual]

@@gregsmith7391 Yeah, I prefer getting them from reputable sellers

[@gnormanhayes]

You will be replacing all of those within five to seven years they will all fail juegos do not work I'm an electrician

[@gregsmith7391]

@@gnormanhayes Most electricians use them here. Are you saying in 5 to 7 years these will all fail in thousands of houses? How could the inspectors pass that? How can the electricians be using them knowing they will all fail in 5 to 7 years? and all these houses will burn down? BTW my 12 year old house is still standing with no problems.

[@headbangindude]

Try making up a 4 gang switch box with 6NAs and 8ANSs. Wagos have their place, but are completely impractical for anything besides a 1g box. Plus a wago ENTIRELY relies on a tiny piece of aluminum alloy creating a bridged connection between your wires, vs a twisted copper connection. They have their place, and are great from a homeowner tinkering but I do not trust them for much besides that.

[@paulsto6516]

"Homeowner tinkering" used to come with a healthy dose of common sense. Not so much anymore.

[@davidszakacs6888]

DIYer here, I just bought some push-ins for a ceiling fan project in my garage. They will save some effort doing the final connections while working up in the attic balanced between ceiling joists!

[@abdulelkhatib2674]

in my opinion those push in connectors are out of the picture I just don't trust a small metal spring inside. But I love wire nuts and the 221 lever nuts.

[@florianbayer2054]

Push in Conectors are only for solid core (here in Germany). Work a long time with them.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

That was my mistake as that is the same here in the US. Thanks for the feedback.

[@drrichardpaul]

You can use stranded, but you have to cut the stranded when taking it out.

[@florianbayer2054]

@@drrichardpaul Wago does not recomend it. In a pinch it would work.

[@proislam1447]

221, 222 are for all sort of cables

[@mattheww2797]

I rewired a big chunk of my home over the summer before we moved in, I wish I had known about the wagos then, I’ve been upgrading to smart light switches and have been using them for that and they are so much easier to work with, will be using them exclusively for my garage reno that I’m doing in the Spring

[@DrHarryT]

Been using wire nuts for decades and when used properly never had a problem. Use an infrared camera and you will see they produce less heat at the junction...ie lower resistance.

[@Doomzdayxx]

SHHH don't let them hear you. They'll call you person who hates change, without even attempting to understand your logic

[@proislam1447]

@@Doomzdayxx No, this is just ignoring facts. For failing lose wire nuts you are always blaming the electrician before not properly doing the job or even forgetting to tighten nuts at all. Fact is: Wire nuts fail by system. Any screw nut combination fails with temperature change or vibration without spring lever or glue. Wire nuts are inferior unsafe devices only used by medieval agricultural societies like US. Other world uses hightech german WAGO, world market leader

[@bruzote]

@@proislam1447 - Wire nut goes bad? Installers fault! Wago goes bad? Design flaw! Just as you said, the wire nut is a flawed system. It kills me to remove a switch plate after I move into a place and see a missing wire nut. Even if we wanted to blame the installer, it's obvious we should fix the system since we can't fix all the installers (including me)!

[@drewhinners1295]

I am a licensed electrician. I use both wire nuts and Wagos. I have been using Wagos for 10 years without any problems. Wire nuts are fine also. I do find more problems with wire nuts in the field, people miss using or not correctly installing wire nuts. I like the Wagos because I can see the connection. I have had zero problems with them over heating. I use Wagos more than wire nuts.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hey Drew, appreciate the feedback. Where do you guy your Wagos?

[@drewhinners1295]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Menards

[@gabrielfrancis8176]

I switched to Wago connectors and never going back to wire nuts. P.S. appreciate all your videos.

[@royrobinson4636]

Same here 🙋‍♂️ I have a large assortment of *Wago 221 from Amazon

[@trxtech3010]

Same as well!

[@mds1986ms]

Let use know how your neutrals are doing in a few years.

[@michaeldietz7038]

After 2 years, my wago 221's are still reliably delivering power. Bringing 7 wires together with wirenuts with the inevitable 3 wires that don't twist is junk. Just a daisy chain of a couple of 5-way wagos will get those 7 grounds connected with 100% reliability.

[@DoctorPLL]

I like these WAGOs as much as the next, but keep in mind that a wire nut will form a pseudo cold weld joint if done properly. These wagos can get quite hot under load. I would use them on low current circuits only, i.e. lighting.

[@Llortnerof]

Well, from my understanding, "done properly" is kinda the point here. Wire nuts are by far the easiest of the three to do wrong and not realise.

[@jonkirkwood469]

I just finished wiring a room using the Ideal push-in. Easy. If I had the Wago, I would have used them, too. I like the Wago because you can undo the connection.

[@oaklejant]

Can the push-in be reused? I mean, is it possible to remove a stranded wire from the connector? Or once it has been used you need to cut the wires?

[@kalijasin]

1. Wago connectors three way and four way don't fit through the round cutouts on many gang boxes. 2. Wago connectors, unlike silicone filled wirenuts, can't be used stand alone outside or where there is moisture. They require the use of a wago gelbox. 3. Silicone filled wirenuts cost significantly less than a wago gelbox + wago connector. 4. Wago connectors are only rated for 221 °F so they can't be used for high temperature applications e.g. wiring inside an Industrial or commercial oven, wiring next too or near a steam pipe, etc. 5. Wago ripped off ideal. Wago did not invent these type connectors Ideal did. In fact, ideal has the patent on them.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hey Jason, thanks for the info. Ideal has the patent on the 221 style lever nut?

[@kalijasin]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank You ☺️

[@stevefrawley9756]

For light fixtures, or other connection from stranded to solid, I use the WAGO 224 series connectors: Gray (224-101) for Hot, White (224-112) for Neutral (which actually accommodates two solid Neutral wires). They pack easily into the fixture, allow you to 'cap' off the Hot and Neutral from the mains, and allow an easy, safe swap out of the fixture in the future. Just squeeze the connector to insert/remove the stranded wires connected to the fixture.