Best Outlet Tester For Homeowners Taking On Electrical Projects

Klein Tools RT390 - geni.us/uS7AA
Klein Tools ET 270 - geni.us/oKGy
Klein Tools RT250 - geni.us/rS4mlwJ
Klein Tools RT210 - geni.us/kdBAJ
Having an outlet tester is a must for any homeowner taking on DIY electrical projects around the house. The question is which one should you buy and are there additional features that are worth investing a bit more money? I will walk through 4 examples starting off with a simple outlet tester and stepping up to a very capable circuit analyzer to show you the information you need to make the right choice for your electrical projects.
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Links To Testers Used In Video Klein Tools RT390 - geni.us/uS7AA Klein Tools ET 270 - geni.us/oKGy Klein Tools RT250 - geni.us/rS4mlwJ Klein Tools RT210 - geni.us/kdBAJ DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@scotto3826]

I have the RT250. I bought it just because I thought it would be cool to have and it's not expensive. Plus, I already have two multimeters. Within a month I used it to diagnose an issue at both my sister's house and my daughter's house. Then one day I walked through my house for no reason and tested every outlet. Two outlets came up "missing ground". I pulled the outlets out and sure enough, the ground wire had come unattached from the screw terminal on both outlets. I'm guessing it happened several years ago when I did a remodel and replaced all the outlets. Probably fell off when I pushed the outlet into the box. Which kind of scares me that I was that inattentive to something that important.

[@Ariccio123]

If you use a torque screwdriver the wire will never come loose.

[@WoodgemanX]

Watched licensed electricians wire up a friend's million dollar house. No one used or had a torque screwdriver. Then a year later one of his arcfault breakers started to trip, found two three-way switches in the affected circuit with one side terminal on each switch never having been tightened. The other two connections were made using the push-in terminals. ​@@Ariccio123

[@bbol745]

As someone who works on RVs I think I might buy an RT 390. I like the load test features. I frequently come across people who are living in a stationary RV that is on either their own land or a family members property and is far from the power source, sometimes by 75FT or more. You might be in a dedicated 20 or 30 amp circuit but if your 100FT away on a 12 AWG cord from harbor freight it may cause problems with voltage drop and compressors on ACs and refrigerators/ freezers not starting. This can give me real numbers instantly rather than having to turn on high draw items, like a heater or microwave, then measure the voltage, a real time saver. I also like that I can use a longer cord to plug into awkwardly placed outlets and sit or stand in a comfortable position to see the screen.

[@SRCardow1]

This RT390 tester should help with those circuits with voltage drops. Recommend they get higher gauge wire especially at or over 100'. Cheers

[@allenjones4397]

The RT250 saved my bacon. I have three outdoor outlets on which I wanted to upgrade the weatherproof covers. I tripped the GFCI with the RT250, and it shut off the circuits as expected. Fortunately, I tested them to verify they were off. Out of the three, two were, while one was still hot. Tried to trip the GFCI on the hot one, but no go, the display still read 119 VAC. Woops! Builder and inspector error! Since that circuit gets used a lot in damp environments, I am fortunate no electrocution ever occurred. Needless to say, that oversight got fixed really fast, and the RT250 was instrumental in recognizing the problem.

[@BeeWhere]

When I got my house I discovered my breaker pannel was only partially labled. Got the Klein Et310 so I could map out which plugs on each breaker. Super helpful

[@richinoregon]

I have the RT250, and the nice thing about it, is the results remain on the display for about 30 seconds after it is removed from the outlet, so if the outlet is in a confined space or upside down you can still read the results.

[@radondar9230]

I bought a RT250 a long time ago and it changed my life. Beyond what’s stated the other benefit is that in places where you’re short on space or if plugs are upside down, then when you unplug it stays as it was for memory.

[@surferdude642]

I have the RT210 and RT250. The RT250 is pretty cool and not too expensive. Probably not interested in the RT270 because I already have a good multimeter and a Klein clamp meter. On the RT270, I think there are two modes for measuring continuity, on the ohms selection, 000 ohms is considered continuity visually, and the selection above would give you an audible beep to signal continuity. My understanding is that a GFCI should not trip at less than 4mA and must trip at 6mA. The reading you got, 7.8mA seems high. You said that it should be between 5 and 9mA, never heard that before. It could also be that the GFCI is bad or the meter is inaccurate. I would check it again on a couple of other GFCI receptacles, out of curiosity. I really like the voltage drop feature. What if you set it to a 20 amp load on a 15 amp breaker, wouldn't it trip the breaker?

[@salembeeman370]

This guy always has the best information. I hope he is making money for all the b great content he puts out.😊

[@donrpemberton6102]

great job Professional. I'd recommend the RT390. for both professionals and homeowners.

[@bobhall5893]

Hi Scott, love your channel. I am not a licensed electrician, but have done work under a licensed pro in the telecom industry. I also have taught a grounding class in the past. Totally a DIYer these days and recently purchased the Klein ET310 tester, it comes with a detachable RT210 that is also a transmitter that you use with the hand held receiver to identity which AC breaker controls that circuit. You simply scan the receiver down the circuit breakers one by one until you hear the sound change. Very cool tool!

[@dalerimkunas8189]

nice extra feature, that's worthy of mentioning.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Super handy 💯, thanks for the feedback 👍

[@BeeWhere]

Great tool I love mine.

[@RadioRich100]

just use a radio you dont need that crap. Hes just selling them.

[@BeeWhere]

@@RadioRich100 That is 100% true if you have a buddy, but when you are DIY, you tend to be doing it all by yourself.

[@redwireless]

As it turns out, my (very) old Radio Shack mmeter is in its last days. As a diyer with a strict budget, the 3rd option (I believe its the 270) with the added receptacle plug/feature is def the right choice at the right time! Having done receptacles' inspections lots of time safely, I always get anxious about prongs in outlets - no more with this one, PLUS you get the basic and most used voltmeter, continuity etc feats all into one. Getting this one asap! Thanks for the vid and review! 🔴

[@KJ-yq5gm]

I have the RT250 simple and works, I agree if I didn't have the multimeter I would go with the ET270.

[@jwhite4]

I have the RT250. As someone who came from an RT210-type device, it took a while to get used to turning it on! I'd plug it into an outlet, and nothing! Then realized I needed to hit the power switch! It's a shame they couldn't have modified their circuity to use the presence of voltage as the on switch (with the existing switch as a manual on/off switch). Two observations: - For the RT250, it (I believe) displayed the GFCI trip time as 0.01 sec, ie. 10msec. But the more advanced meters measured it as 53msec. That seems like a big difference. The 0.01 reading would infer that it can read accurately down to tenths of msec. - For the load test, for the 20A test, it measured over the 5% alert threshold? Was that because it was on a 15A circuit? Initially i thought for all new wiring and receptacle (for the test setup), it should test clean. Then I wondered about 20A vs 15A. Or, if maybe it was the rest of your wiring that may not be in ideal conditions.

[@bw1235]

Just bought a 390 a couple weeks ago! Glad I did before this video creates a run on them. I’m a EE and homeowner who does most of my own projects.

[@salembeeman370]

At my age it's hard to justify spending more money as I have a multimeter, outlet tester and breaker identifier. However, I do like the last one as it shows more info.

[@ElectroAtletico]

DIY here (ex-Electrical Apprentice, Electronic hobbyist). I have the basic GFCI Outlet tester (Commercial Electric), and was looking to purchase, for the hell of it, an outlet tester with LCD. Only $20, so I may just pull the trigger on it. Nevertheless, I always back everything up with my highly reliable Fluke 115 (and that includes battery testing).

[@JohnDemolition]

I like how the 30V on the RT250 was not mentioned at all. For those wondering, some GFCIs generate noise that messes that tester up. Connecting a short extension at the end will make it go away.

[@grubbb]

I really enjoyed your video! One of the clearest and most concise I've seen across multiple subjects! I am a DIY but I also look after a campground so get to do lots of electrical stuff. (I'm not an electrician but have my work checked when required - mostly initial install stuff, then trouble shooting) so these tools really help. Thanks for the excellent video - I'm subscribed now!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help and thanks for the feedback. Welcome to the channel 🙌

[@vladpeterman5682]

Thank you so much, your channel is always so useful and practical, I find something in every video

[@GPG0000]

Ohmigod, you must read my mind!!! I have to do some DIY electrical work and this is just what I needed!😊

[@ut4321]

I received the RT250 as a gift and use it a lot around the house. One thing to note: if you are using it to find which breaker covers an outlet and you’ve got your son or daughter watching the RT250 while you flip breakers, there is a delay on loss of current before the LED will flash then extinguish. Great test device, but watch it work together before splitting up to play “find the breaker”…

[@bobwhat7629]

Thanks for the information. Been thinking about getting one of these. Just got the 250.

[@bmcc4865]

nice video - helpful explanations... I'm sticking with my boring old 'standard' outlet tester and my separate multimeter for more complicated analysis... Kinda neat that the others measure the time it takes to trip the GFCI but for me it's either seemingly 'instant' or its broken and needs replacing...

[@csimet]

I currently have the RT250, as it is handy to test for voltage drops along a long circuit without the need to fumble with my multimeter and its leads. I'll probably look at the RT390 down the road, as I like its ability to voltage load test.

[@michaellee8815]

KZbin is the most incredible thing on earth

[@markm7991]

Important to note: The RT390 does not properly test newer CAFCI breakers. Older AFCI or AFCI+GFI breakers do trip. I found this out on QO breakers in my own home.

[@aayotechnology]

Have you found a similar analyzer that works on CAFCIs?

[@Paine137]

I recently installed several dual QO breakers and they all trip when tested with this tool. Maybe your breakers have an issue, which if anything would illustrate the tool’s efficacy.

[@RadioRich100]

You dont need that thing, just plug in a radio and turn up the volume, when you hear it stop you flipped the right breaker.

[@WoodgemanX]

​@@RadioRich100Then you have to go back and reset the clocks on the microwave, stove, and clock radios. Turning off the power and back on quickly can damage the compressor in the refrigerator if the compressor was in the start stage.

[@4055pat]

So i could use the load test on every outlet on a circuit and be able to tell which outlet is the first one on the circuit , if i wanted to put a GFCI as the first outlet and protect any down stream outlets.

[@jamesrobinson8065]

The problem with the simplest tester is if there are two faults (open ground and hot-neutral reversed?) it indicates a correct circuit. I bought the Ideal version of the most expensive tester many years ago and it was discontinued because there is no set definition of was constitutes an arc fault. The voltage drop indication is worthwhile, but don't be surprised if your AFCI breakers don't trip using the AFCI button on this tester.

[@chrisllang8055]

I have the RT-210 and the RT-250, as I upgraded to have more definitive information available to me. Both seem to work well but I definitely have a preference for the RT-250.

[@Aepek]

4:36 would be nice for backlit display on this all the time, like prior model

[@gregben]

The Klein RT210 and other similar testers usually have NEON lamps, not LED lamps.

[@jsr-uz3oj]

I'm going with the ET270. Retired maintenance man and my meters are 30 years old. I think I need a new one.

[@gibblespascack1418]

ET310 included the 210 and the circuit tracing tool. Very handy for a home owner. Going to the RT250 would eliminate another tool that i own called Kill-a-Watt. Together the ET310 tool and kill-a-watt meet my needs

[@scottkolaya2110]

I use a hair dryer and my regular multimeter for load testing. Saves $142. That tool is great for a person who uses it on a daily basis.

[@Do-U-Know-me00]

I am so GLAD I subbed to this channel. I know very little about these things, but I sure am learning a lot. Still don't know as much, but I'll be a better consumer, anyway. Thanks. These videos are really very interesting.

[@wogfun]

For me, the first one is what I keep in the electric bag. It's cheap, not worried about it walking off on the job. Doesn't require batteries, nothing worse than having to hunt down a 9V when I'm just trying to get something done. And it does everything the other two do except test response time.

[@SimonBarsinister]

Keep a spare 9v in your bag, perhaps 😉

[@wogfun]

@@SimonBarsinister Wow, that's a great idea... Unless you need to know the GFI trip time, the two devices that need a battery do nothing the first can't. So I can either add one more thing that I need to remember, and if I forget to replace it I'm fucked, or I can take literally a fraction of a second to glance at the 3 lights and figure out what they refer to on the chart. It's not even a decision. It is plainly obvious which tool a professional in the field prefers.

[@davefoc]

From my non electrician perspective the choice is between the least expensive and the most expensive. I didn't see any value in the middle option. The feature that seemed the most useful in the high end model was the voltage drop testing. That could detect high resistance but not open circuits like a loose wire nut, in older houses solder joints beginning to fail or faulty copper aluminum connections. It could provide information that might help detect a situation where the wire gauge used was too small. One feature you could put into a higher end version would be a sender unit for wire tracing.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

I have the Klein RT310, and the Ideal 61-502 receptacle tester and my Ideal gets the most use. The Klein actually produces an arc inside the tester to verify proper AFCI operation, while the 30mA button tests for proper operation of GFPE, not to be confused with class A GFCI which must trip when leakage current exceeds 6mA. My only complaint for the Klein tester is that it is rated CAT III 135VAC MAX. This assumes of course that a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20R is not accidentally or intentionally placed on a 240V circuit, a 3 light tester will survive a short time exposure to 240V, all three lights will be lit brighter than normal. The ideal sure test circuit analyzer is the gold standard for receptacle testers because it can detect bootleg grounds and has a max voltage rating of 250VAC as a buffer in case the receptacle is connected to 240V.

[@chrishernandez3348]

I also have the RT250 like others. That’s good enough for me

[@gd.ritter]

Kobalt makes an outlet tester that is similar to the RT210 with the basic lights but also shows a voltage display without needing batteries inside.

[@commentsonthetube14]

I prefer the circuit breaker finder one from Klein for DIY use. It’s nice being able to use it to find breakers. And I don’t need to actually test outlet wiring that often. If I need to measure voltage, I can just stick the multimeter in. That analyzer is cool though, but I dunno how I’d use it.

[@danielherman9483]

RT250 is the sweet spot - that's what I have. The ET390 is nice, but it's hard to justify 100$ more for a pretty interface and load testing capability. It's also a bit large - I like that I can shove the RT250 in my pocket. Rather spend that money on another useful tool - the ET450. That came in clutch when I was re-wiring my house to help figure out where a bunch of buried junction boxes were, how the original wires were run, etc. It was even useful for doing things like fixing squeaks in my subfloor actually. Find the bad spot and put the transmitter there, go down in the basement and turn the sensitivity almost all the way up on the receiver - it'll start going off right where you need to put a shim or screw to tighten things up.

[@Vladimir-JT]

as a home inspector i have alway used the rt250 but i thinkim going to upgrade to a 390

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah the RT250 is solid and I do like the load testing on the RT390. Pretty handy and a nice extra test to run.

[@realfloridaredneck1988]

I have a regular GFI tester that is attached to my breaker finder that I use for hot checking, I also have the RT250, but I don't use it. The reason I don't use it is because one time I forgot to turn it on when I was testing for power, and wasted about 45min trying to figure out why the receptacle wasn't getting any power. I like the basic GFI testers, because I don't need to remember to press the power button every time I plug it in.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good point and thanks for the feedback on the RT250.

[@robertarguello1115]

Hm? … Well Scott, in response to your inquiry, I am now considering the third option (the ET-270) to have in my set of electrical tools. Thanks for making this video!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet, thanks for the feedback 👊

[@trace4125]

As a professional i always have an rt250 on my belt. I m interested in getting the rt390 circuit analyzer. I think ill get my dad the et270 for Christmas.

[@johng.]

I've always used an RT210-like tester on my home projects. I could consider buying something like an RT250, but not inclined to go higher in features or price. The RT250 would likely give me enough info to talk with an electrician with a bit of intelligence on my part.

[@engineerncook6138]

RT-210 (or equivalent) is plenty for my occasional uses. I already have a basic Fluke multimeter.

[@soggybottom23]

I have the RT 250. But sometimes in my business its hard to see the display due to the outlet being in a hard to reach position. I'm looking at the RT390 just because I already have a multi meter.

[@tjs6558]

I have the rt259 now I want the 390

[@fsj197811]

The last one with the load testing is a nice feature but other than that I'll stick with the most basic one that doesn't require batteries.

[@Aepek]

6:20 the display for this better, but do wish it auto turned on when plugged into outlet, as would remove a step and auto off…..like it does if not mistaken (professional)

[@sloanNYC]

The RT250 is cheap enough that I get these for friends and family, especially my parents who would balk at a multimeter. That RT390 is really useful I'm sure for pros.

[@arod7404]

Please do a vid on the best circuit tracer used for labeling breaker panels

[@rzorrilla52]

As a DIYr, I wanted the RT250, but having batteries in an infrequently used device was a no-deal for me due to most-likely scenario of battery leakage over time. Similar devices exist with voltage reading that do not use batteries - like Kaiweets Brand (however my devices have shown poor voltage accuracy). Lowe’s Kobalt Model ET-19L has GFCI trip and voltage reading (no trip time) and also does not use batteries for about $16. That’s my choice if you are weary about battery leaking over time.

[@EmJhay-b2w]

I’ll definitely buy the newest ones you showed

[@Android_Warrior]

Funny, I got the two one´s in the middle!.

[@rustyclark6263]

I use to sell all of those.they have changed since I was a manager at a electrical warehouse.but the electric is still the same.

[@johntollini6095]

Thanks for covering the feature set of each. When you were explaining what trips a GFI, you missed what exactly a GFI is looking for. If the current flow on the hot and neutral are different, that is the definition of a ground fault. It means that some current is going elsewhere. Could be to the ground pin or it could literally be some flow to earth. If the current on the hot & neutral are identical, then all is good. A caution with any of these testers. If you have an outlet labeled "no equipment ground", then GFI test function will not work. That doesn't mean that the GFI is not working. Just that you are not providing a fault to be detected and acted on.

[@xonx209]

Can you use RT390 to detect neutral-ground short, or identify which outlet is upstream?

[@Hunter-vl6ft]

With the battery test, Harbor Freight has the 5 dollar meter that also checks milliamps. While volts may show 1.5 the milliamp will truly let you know if its still good.

[@timskiff9422]

Will they detect an illegal jumper between neutral and ground?

[@donhgr]

Using a fluke VOM and a plug tester. Any new meter for me would have to have an breaker locator on it for tagging

[@dylanmoore5138]

If you don't have any electrical tools there's a solid kit with the RT250, noncontact voltage tester and multimeter for $50

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hard to beat 💯

[@markeissler]

For the last tester, if you trip the GFCI, and it states "trip successful", why is it still also indicating "energized."

[@alfredbondurant2244]

Using RT-250 Will get the ET-270

[@waynegram8907]

How do you know the GFCI "Response Time"? what is the Response Time range under 100mS? The Trip Current range is 5mA to 9mA range

[@mikegrimaldi5844]

I’m in the market for new multimeter so I think Il I’ll buy the fluke you showed. I have the other units and was not aware how the load check worked and I can see how it could be quite useful. One correction I’d like to make you said check wire nuts “downstream” of outlet tested. I think you meant “upstream” towards the source of power.

[@meestawoo]

What happens if you push the gfci test button while plugged into a non-gfci outlet?

[@jamesreizner2673]

An idea for a new show for you - something I have not seen done by others. Using the RT390 (which I have and enjoy). Voltage drop on a cable - WAGO vs. wire nuts. Could do wire nuts pre-twisted and not pre-twisted. Since the typical home Romex run is maybe 35 to 50 feet, use that length of Romex. Then put maybe three or so connectors in the line. RT390 at the end of the line, other end connected directly to a breaker. Maybe do both with 14 gauge on 15 amp breaker, 12 gauge on 20 amp breaker. Or you may want to use something else for the power supply end. I have used WAGO's extensively for many years and love them, especially the newer design. But I have had a sneaking suspicion, based on what I have seen, that they may contribute to higher line voltage drops than wire nuts. I could test my suspicion but then only I would see the results. With you, a large group would see them. Thanks!

[@smeado3533]

I'd love for them to develop an affordable tester that can test gfci and reverse polarity when there's no system ground.

[@trevorgreene5059]

The only Klein Tools I own is a ET310 because I am constantly having to find the correct breaker to turn off when working on outlet or light switches. I think I like the RT270 to have a dual function of testing circuit and the multimeter feature, but I do not plan on purchasing that as I already have a General Electric Digital Multimeter, GE2524.

[@Mithranos]

Thanks for a great video.

[@OzMan9989]

Fantastic overview!

[@robertwilkes8275]

I have the RT 210 a lot of the time I cannot get it to turn on. I have to bang it on the palm of my hand or on a table or someplace I think there is a loose connection in it but I cannot figure it out. It only seems to work when I don't really need it

[@glynnetolar4423]

A kill-a-watt meter is also handy. The fancy one, I'm surprised it didn't have frequency. Wish someone made a reasonably priced tester for ground quality and noise level. As someone who deals with sound, video equipment they can be fussy about power quality and so many electricians don't deal with this.

[@user-cn4vt6yl8v]

Can the RT 250 also work with standard outlets or limited only to gfci outlets for household sockets

[@MAGAMAN]

My Klein RT250 has never tripped any outlet I've tested, so either there is an issue with my tester, or every GFCI outlet I have installed in the past 3 years is defective.

[@TheKingOfInappropriateComments]

only 8k to go!! So close to that gold award thing.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

For me, the RT210 is an everyday carry, although other manufacturers have identically featured versions. The RT250 isn't worth the extra space in my main bag that already has a multimeter, but is an appropriate upgrade for many. I find the ET270 mostly a subset of my multimeter, so a pass for me. The RT390 I've been eyeing for a couple years with the easy voltage drop info being a fairly unique feature at this level. Maybe soon...

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@gregfisher216]

Great products Scott ! Has Klein upgraded their circuit finder ?

[@JavaManRules]

Klein Tools RT390 I am DYI.... My Home is 19-year-old to test the home... and I am about to build a 12 X 16 Shead and plane on get electricity in it and a Mini split AC possible with solar option

[@johndernberger1961]

Just a homeowner. Have the basic outlet tester and a multi/amp meter.

[@Wash-g6u]

I have my fire/co alarms hard wired (battery backup) and connected together (red wire). How do I know 1) which breaker they are wired to and 2) are they wired correctly even though the wire colors match up.

[@VSLComputers]

Great video! Aren't you supposed to test the 9v by putting your tongue over the terminals 😜

[@mugen2002]

I received a RT390 as a dud. It keeps saying open neutral on all outlets and doesn't turn on for a wire swapped outlet. My other outlet tester and multimeter are accurate. Hopefully my replacement is OK.

[@nateb7394]

For a homeowner using these tools very infrequently, I think the simple one is probably best just in the fact that you never need to have batteries on hand.

[@hassanbazzi3545]

I use the first rt210. Very informative material. Thanks for sharing

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet!

[@Werdna12345]

I used your link 🔗 but ended up getting the Klein RT310 (tests for correct wiring, gfci and afci for $35). Hope that you got credit for the Amazon affiliate link 🔗 🤞

[@bsoneill3]

It would have been helpful if you said/showed what happens if press GFCI and AFCI on a circuit not protected with those features with each meter.

[@JenkinsUSA]

I have the ET310. I need a tool for 120v, similar to a tone tester, to find a break in a 120v circuit. The circuit breaker locator doesn’t work, because there’s no power on the outlet. House was wired in 1924, has been upgraded, but don’t have accurate wiring diagrams. Any ideas? Or should I try a tone tester after I disable the mains, sub-panels and local breakers? Prior to this, I didn’t experience electrical issues. Thank you!

[@headhog77]

Do any of the testers check for bootleg grounds?

[@MAGAMAN]

My house was full of ground connected to the neutral when I bought it. I have been remodeling down to the studs on a room by room basis. Now they are all open ground GFCI outlets. I have pulled several taped up connections out of the walls and had to rewire the outlet from the attic down.

[@armandol1826]

Ideal suretest. Bill the sparky did a video on it

[@ZM-eg8nr]

Los conectores nuevo los puse en el lava manos del bañó de abajo donde fría el agua del patios hay están

[@gregpochet4812]

Does a device exist where I can plug into a 240v outlet(30 or 50 amp) to test it?

[@donlibes]

Can you suggest a tester of some kind that can place a load on the battery settings? I occasionally encounter batteries that show good voltage until a load is placed on them.

[@todd2456]

Has anyone else run across this -- the standard RT210 or similar ones won't plug into the tamper resistant GFCI outlets. So frustrating.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I haven’t had that issue. TR outlets can be a pain in general making sure both the hot and neutral prongs are making contact at the same time.

[@todd2456]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs My tester won't go in at all. Maybe I'll try a different brand.

[@PeterGeorgievPetrov]

RT 250 its great.I have one

[@zekenzy6486]

Great video. Thank you for sharing

[@billkunkle1880]

I am a homeowner. I have an issue with a wall light I wired with 2 switches (3 way). Both switches work the correct way but the LED bulb lights dimly all the time, no matter the switch position. Can you offer advice or an analyzer that would help? Good video

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hmmm, I would start by checking voltages at the fixture and switches to see if I am considerably under 120V. 3 way circuits can have a number of different failure modes but with a multimeter and testing the different combinations of switch positions you usually can narrow things down.