How To Fix A Large Crack In A Concrete Sidewalk | Surprising Results!

[@frankperricone2065]

I am a mason for over 35 years and what you did with the pool noodle isn't a bad idea especially with the crooked Crack because the noodle is flexible, but I would suggest using quick-create, just mix with water, it's premixed cement, just add water and mix. Then use a small hand garden shovel it in, push down on the cement to get gaps and air pockets out of the cement. When cement gets to a putty type concestansy take a large damp sponge and run it the length of the Crack and feather it in to both sides of Crack, you can do it with the stuff in the tube but you sill have to feather and level the product that comes out of tube

[@queenslander954]

Yea mate thats good mail , also if it’s a hot day wet the concrete down first so it doesn’t suck that mix too quickly .

[@frankperricone2065]

@@queenslander954 Good call, give both sides of old concrete a good dampening if it is a hot day👍

[@Keenadoesitall]

What's feathering

[@frankperricone2065]

@@Keenadoesitall Feathering is moving the new cement up against the old cement, like blending it to the old cement,usually done with a tool called a hand float, but in a homeowners case most likely would have such tool, take a large sponge dip it in water and ring it out so it is just damp and blend it up to old cement, the most important thing is to make sure rain water or sprinkle water does not get into the old Crack. Now it depends on the climate you live in, if it freezes in winter you don't want water to get into repair and sit and freezes, it will Crack. That is the best I can explain, feathering is just blending up to old cement, good luck

[@brittanykolehmainen6974]

Thank you! I was looking for a solution that doesn't involve any plastic!

[@jehnasjunk]

I don’t even have the problems you fix most of the time, but you’re so engaging to watch, I watch them anyway.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the support 👍

[@baldevsidhu7719]

@@EverydayHomeRepairsI have a horizontal crack in my barn foundation wall. Do you think backer rod or pool noodle will work there

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Great Video Scot, sprinkling the sand in at the end way a genius idea!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks bro 👊

[@adbates]

It genius for more cracks. Conc needs room to expand. Putting sand in the crack does not allow this. Incompressible. Otherwise great video

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

@@adbates 😂😂you think the pool noodle and caulking will stop the sand from being pushed vertically. Carry on.

[@ganjalfcreamcorn8438]

@@adbates what?

[@rfox5487]

You can also use all those plastic grocery bags lying around. Just stuff them in and pound them down.

[@jrobbin24]

Derp derp micro plastic derp

[@Exploer8591]

Does the San Andreas fault run through the middle of your property?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hahaha, no doubt. Just picked this place up a couple weeks back and this part of the entry was a bit rough.

[@PeterShipley1]

my guess is tree roots and / or expansive clay soil

[@loloholmes2793]

You'd be surprised how many fault lines, both active & ancient, run thru the Midwest. Even Minnesota has a fault line. The Great Lakes Tectonic Zone runs from Big Stone & Traverse County to Duluth and while not very seismically active compared to the San Andreas, it has produced some decent "I felt that"-type quakes.

[@ytsux9259]

My house is right in the middle of the Cascade fault line.

[@Exploer8591]

@@ytsux9259 You must live close to me.

[@kwr010101]

Nice presentation. Having done this job on a windy late-fall day, I appreciate your thoughtful sand idea. Tiny leaves swirling into self-leveling goo is a nightmare.

[@LRN2DIY]

Never would have thought of that - great stuff, Scott!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks Nils 👍

[@ms.rubyj.4259]

EXCEPTIONAL tutorial video - so clear, concise and straight to the point! I love the way you cover every little detail, including warning what to do/what NOT to do. You make it look so easy, even I could probably do it. Therefore, I have liked, subscribed & clicked the bell. I will be following you along your journey, so keep up the GREAT work, Scott. U THA' MAN!!!

[@j.e.bembenek9963]

THANKS!! I've had a large crack in my concrete patio for 25 years without EVER being able to get it fixed but NOW I'll be able to do it myself!!!!

[@joshuacragan3321]

did you do it? How did it turn out?

[@brianbretz580]

The doubled-up duct tape at the edges and sand sprinkled on at the very end were each a nice touch.

[@jamesdelap4085]

Or pipe insulation tubing. (SAME material). Just in case pool noodles are out of season.

[@DavidBugea]

That’s what I was thinking. Plus pipe insulation is gray, so if it peeks through the sealant it won’t stick out like a sore thumb.

[@grammakathi]

I found this video by accident looking for something else and I'm glad I did! I have a large crack in a sidewalk that I had filled several years ago by a mud jacker. Didn't last only 2 years. Also 2 sections of sidewalk have spread apart and garage floor and driveway have split apart. Should be easy peasy fix for An 84 yr old woman by herself to do! Thanx!

[@hashal87]

Did this work for your sidewalk plz?

[@olliefoxx7165]

There's a quite satisfaction in seeing a problem get fixed while learning at the same time. Love these types of videos.

[@sophiesten]

Good video thanks……be good to your knees tho…✌🌻

[@jenniferbrown1950]

I wish I had known about this long ago!! My dad’s electric wheelchair had a hard time going over gaps, caused by tree roots, when going to our wheelchair van. Sometimes the ramp would settle on a crack and not sit level. This caused the ramp to tilt when he drive the wheelchair into the van. The cracks in the sidewalk were also large and hard to get across. These were situations that were a serious tipping hazard. Sadly, Dad passed away two weeks ago. He’d have approved of your fix. He had ideas like this, too. Thanks for sharing. I’ve subscribed and look forward to more helpful information.

[@HalfManHalfCichlid]

For a more substantial joint, I pack the seam/crack with pea gravel to about half inch depth from the top. Then fill the joint with the joint filler. Much less likely to pop out or be "ejected" due to ground movement.

[@replyhere590]

If you do not fix the problem which caused the crack, there will be trouble on the horizon. I am fixing cracks at our mountain property using an asphalt based Lowe's product, but filling most of the crack with gravel first, then topping it off. Not perfect, cannot be applied too thick at once and it requires going back over more than once after drying in. This guy's method does not look as good for what we have but then none of our gaps are as large, so I can understand that his problem requires a different solution.

[@HalfManHalfCichlid]

@@replyhere590 thanks. The joint filler i use between stones is a flexible epoxy type and it seems to move and stretch somewhat without breaking seal

[@tonymontana897]

Man, that was genius. I love the way the sealant is liquidous and self levelling. Neat job. Thumbs up for me.

[@j.morrison73]

My 'fear' is by using so thin a top coat [less than 1/2" thick], it becomes more susceptible to cracking and breaking under traffic.

[@genecarden780]

SSL has a fairly high shore hardness but yes in that size joint it should be 1/2 inch deep

[@sturgus1]

The sealant has to have enough concrete side surface to bond to else it won’t stick to it as the two sides move from freeze thaw cycles.

[@williamwwjd12345]

After 2 years how is it holding up

[@digiacomtech5589]

What I do is, clean as he does, dig out all the debris in the gap (as deep as the concrete is) then tape over the edges and fill the gap with waterproof expanding foam. When that dries I use a wire cup bit on a hand drill to remove excess foam to about 1/2" depth. Then finish up with self leveling sealant caulk.

[@annfraley7083]

When you say you tape over the edges, do you mean the cracked edge of the concrete? Does the tape stay in place after the entire repair is finished?

[@carolburke5591]

cool idea!

[@digiacomtech5589]

@@annfraley7083 ... Before I apply the expanding foam I mask the edges of the concrete, the top surface. I use 2" painters tape so if there is any over expansion of the foam it won't spill out over the top surface of the concrete. Once the foam has dried, it's easy to break off any excess foam before cutting/grinding out the top 1/2" or so of foam.

[@michellem7300]

I think I might like this idea better as I'm not very good with my hands, and I don't think that I would cut the pool noodle as well as he does. I would probably end up making it look worse than it already does lol. But I liked all the other things that he shared in the video

[@replyhere590]

@@digiacomtech5589 Won't a stiff rotary brush on a drill or grinder buff off any excess foam, overall more quickly than taping as you describe?

[@susanmei9980]

This is nice and I’m glad you showed the trick of sprinkling the sand on top which definitely makes it blend in better! I’ve seen places that were caulked w/o that step and it looks terrible and sticks out like a sore thumb.

[@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3]

Repent to Jesus Christ “the Lord delights in those who fear him, who put their hope in his unfailing love.” ‭‭Psalms‬ ‭147:11‬ ‭NIV‬‬ J

[@sharazar]

I wish i knew the sand trick when i sealed a crack in my walk. the lighter sealant really sticks out.

[@therebellion6911]

If you use the sand on a crack instead of a joint people tend to bring the caulking to the top and then add sand. The patch will then be higher than the cracks. Make sure you leave it down from the top just a smidge if you are adding sand. I personally dont care for the sand look but its just a preference.

[@chrisfry436]

I saw a man fixing and patching someones front steps and he got some dirt and mixed in for it to look more like the old cement he was patching!! not a bunch but enough to take away the "new" look, and it worked!

[@mikeike7114]

@@therebellion6911 Hi. What’s the difference between a crack and a joint? Meaning, even if you do a joint, aren’t you supposed to leave the sealant slightly below the concrete to compensate for the sand as well? Thank you

[@mattp4079]

If slabs are at different levels, drill a 1/4" hole, insert the nozzle of Expanding Foam and watch the sidewalk rise. May take a couple of cans but much cheaper than calling in a slab jacker.

[@happydays4551]

or dig a 6in deep hole and use a "car floor jack"

[@therebellion6911]

Id love to see this without a void. Any videos? I dont see this happening with a slab sitting tight on the ground. Could be wrong.

[@bran-qt7ds]

That doesn't work with cans of expanding foam from places like home improvement stores. Have to have two part (expensive) foam.

[@bran-qt7ds]

@fartpoobox ohyeah you really need to learn the difference between how open cell and two part closed cell foams work. Claiming 'i seen it on KZbin' is certainly amusing though, as if everything on the Internet is real.

[@viewthoughmyeyes]

With just 1,2 or 13 cans of Great stuff foam it doesn't work on sidewalks or on wheelbarrow tires overtime the foam compresses and can't hold the weight of the slab or load of wheelbarrow stuff. Save your money and hire a pro to break up small part of slab and re pour. Eventually what I did. I got an amazing deal on a 27 lb jackhammer from Amazon for $110 I own this thing it's a beast and manageable without too much difficulty. One day rental is 75 bucks I've definitely used it more than 10 days already and it comes with that great little plastic case, dorky goggles, useless gloves. I threw out and use my own. straight from China. Doesn't matter it's still a beast "Xtreme power" I think it's called. Or use the part 2 whatever Brandon might be talking about. I can't verify that. KZbin is your friend but it can also be your enemy and lead you down the wrong path. You just have to be able to decipher between the two. I'm only speaking from experience!

[@JRPLawyeress1]

I thought I’d have to pay to jack up my patio. I’ll give it a try. Thanks.

[@MrJoebiz24]

I have 1/4" to 3/4" gaps in several spots. Already had my backer rod. Didn't know what to use for a sealant. The SSL sealant was the final step I needed. The sand topping was a bonus. Great video....thanks. Happy 4th of July.

[@ML-ks2lj]

Sika 2 c ns I think it's called is what I used. I worked industrial. Usually want to use an open cell backer rod

[@terrymounts4371]

City problem

[@terrymounts4371]

Yes u have ants mice be3

[@bethanyanderson1745]

@@terrymounts4371 - huh?

[@terrymounts4371]

Careful you dont want to step on the crack that's what my mom said

[@rollandjoeseph]

If someone told me to fill a crack in my sidewalk with a pool noodle and apoxy , I'd question it ..but here we are😳

[@cassandragonzalez5660]

Thank goodness I found you! I have to take care of my home on my own. I wouldn't know some of the pitfalls if you didn't express them. Although I can understand "semi-leveling" v "self leveling" Unless you explained what happens in this instance, I wouldn't understand in its practical usage. Same with the duct tape. Wouldn't have thought to cap the end like that, and if I did....I wouldn't have thought about the caulk sticking without you adding that in. Those 2 things would have made this a fail for me. So thank you so much!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help and thanks for all the great feedback 👍

[@networkedperson]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs it would be nice if you would not take blood money from a certain corporation known for anti-social practices...

[@matt7iron]

@@networkedperson are you a woke Lib

[@thankyoucaptainobvious7707]

@@networkedperson -take a break netwoke person. I guarantee that you’re using products that exploit child labor or that your daily habits are contributing to global warming so please peddle your hypocrisy elsewhere.

[@lot6129]

@@networkedperson I hope he takes MORE,. screw the loud mouth woke

[@richl2723]

Why not just fill with sand rather than using the foam backer?

[@iwontliveinfear]

A much easier way to do this, though probably much more expensive would be to use polymeric sand, fill the crack, water it and it polymerizes becoming a flexible seal. You still need to do the prep work though. You need clean concrete.

[@rtoguidver3651]

What he used cost $50 a tube. A 50 lb. bag of Polymeric Sand is $65.. I'd go w/ Polymeric Sand..

[@iwontliveinfear]

@@rtoguidver3651 yeah, I don't know what stuff costs, I just use what they tell me to use. I have laid a lot of polymeric sand. Mostly because it is fast and it works.

[@joetousignant9130]

@@iwontliveinfear does the sand work on big cracks like those in the videos? I would spend a fortune on the Vulkem stuff he used, to fill the cracks I need to fill.

[@iwontliveinfear]

@@joetousignant9130 I've successfully used polymeric sand for cracks up to 2 inches wide. You have to be careful when watering the sand in big gaps. If you add to much water to quickly you can wash the sand out. It also isn't ideal in places that get a lot of rain, as most polymeric sand gets soft again when it gets wet. When I have a crack larger than 2 inches, I break up the sidewalk section, remove the debris, frame it up to create an expansion gap using a ¾ inch board that has a piece of baking parchment taped to it facing the pour. Then pour a new concrete section. After it cures, I remove the framing, the parchment makes it easier to remove the gap board from between the new and old sections of sidewalk. Then I fill the ¾ inch expansion gap with polymeric sand.

[@theworld5937]

Yeah I agree. This would be more permanent solution under traffic.

[@ericclenney318]

This is a total Micky Mouse and dangerous. A womens high heel would go right through that soft bs repair and could easily cause a broken ankle or other serious injuries. This type of fix should only be used for very narrow cracks or separations at expansion joints. Do it right or don't even bother.

[@richardapril4205]

Go with low expansion urethane instead of baker rod. Applied gently with cleaning off the excess after 20-30 min (time to get ready for next step) You will then start to use urethane for almost every gap/void/volume filling inside or outside. Very nice talent that God gave you. You're definitely giving good fruits with all your videos. I like your humility and your hardworking being.

[@NatalieChappie-xz2gs]

Thank you for this video! Followed your instructions and now my sidewalk looks so much better!!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Awesome, nice work 🙌

[@gabrielmilagro8906]

This is not how you fix a concrete side walk for that you would need concrete

[@jimcardona6639]

No, he shows the correct method in this video

[@gabrielmilagro8906]

@jimcardona6639 just because your a fast swimmer doesn't mean your smart.

[@queeniesongs]

Thank you for this! I am dealing with a cracked concrete driveway and this is a great solution. I think it will be much safer to walk on once I finish the project.

[@gumbomomma1971]

Omgoodness thank you for the step-by-step tutorial I'm sending this to my landlord.

[@greenhills112]

Its not easier if we just put the sand then pour self leveling that is regular cement but more liquid instead of using caulking gun, without the noodels, does it work?

[@ezdeezytube]

Its funny how that really jagged crack was only an inch away from the relief cut placed in the concrete to prevent exactly that. I guess relief cuts should ideally be much deeper than what we typically do.

[@genecarden780]

Yes they should. Ideally they should be 1/5 the slab thickness but most people would object to the aesthetics

[@tsetendorjee9040]

Thanks for sharing you good Idea !

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Essentially a large size foam backer rod. My Grandfather used to use the tiny backer rods to fill sidewalk cracks followed up with some sort of concrete compatible caulking. I'm not sure what he used but his repairs would often last more than a decade. I could probably swing by his home that he lived in long ago and built in 1986 and they'd still be there long after my Grandfather has been gone.

[@Baasicstuff]

Tape does not stick to sealant from my experience, a wet finger is good for smoothing things out, sealant wont stick there also. looks great by the way

[@davej7458]

Using a pool noodle for backer rod for cracks is absolutely great thinking. The thickness of the calking is critical to making a successful repair. . Read the information on the label to find what that is. To create that consistent thickness, I use a scrap of board with a wooden spacer tacked on it and run it the length of the backer it pushes the backer rod down to the correct depth consistently. When the calk is too thick it doesn't stretch properly and will pull away from the concrete and the joint still leaks.

[@kbrollins77]

Great overview! I've done several of these repairs of irregular cracks using spray foam to create a backer, which is not as easy as it sounds. I've needed to carefully carve down the foam to be below grade, so I get a clean installation of SSL. I'm going to use the pool noodle next time!

[@donaldhubert7734]

Hello 👋

[@chadburke1938]

The sealant depth looks to be less than what a manufacturer would recommend for that width. Standard practice is for the depth to be half the width of the joint/crack and to consult with their rep for joints wider than 1”. I think you probably traded cracked concrete for cracked sealant in short order.

[@iac4357]

Agree. His Sealant is merely a thin Coating over the foam.

[@DP-nw3lz]

Come on... It's for looks! Nobody walks there lol

[@chadburke1938]

@@DP-nw3lz I agree that it is for looks. That said, the sealant is going to crack and look like crap in short order. Next thing you know there are grass and weeds popping through those cracks. The sealant could be an excellent solution here but it is done incorrectly.

[@ab221983]

One day you are young, then you are watching this tips

[@genecarden780]

Joints with this obvious amount of movement require primer. On the cartridge it usually says something to the effect of “ no primer required for most substrates” But if you read the material literature it will tell you to prime joints like this. I installed sealant for a living and on a lot of projects we would use thousands of gallons of sealant. When you use these amounts a material rep will show up to make sure it is installed correctly and every time they would say to prime or the material guarantee is void. If you are going to take the time to clean the joint properly ,as the video shows, you might as well brush on the proper primer.

[@billbaillie3702]

What type of primer is suitable for a concrete surface?

[@genecarden780]

@@billbaillie3702 unfortunately that takes a little research. Every product may require a different primer so it is impossible for me to give you a good answer. But you should be able to find out pretty easily on the manufacturer website. Just be sure to locate the primer for the specific sealant and substrate ( in this case concrete) you choose.This is what I found for Vulkem 45 SSL :Where deemed necessary, use Vulkem® Primer #191 Low-VOC QD on porous substrates You can usually find this information on the material data sheet. Primer is also recommended because even though it is semi self leveling it is still supposed to be dry tooled( something very difficult for a homeowner to do correctly) Most people think that dry tooling the sealant is cosmetic but it is actually to gently force the sealant against the side of the joint to ensure good adhesion.

[@billbaillie3702]

@@genecarden780 Thanks. I was thinking it would be something Vulkem compatible, I've never seen a primer product available where I usually purchase Vulkem. Are you spraying water or a specific liquid on the fresh Vulkem prior to tooling?

[@genecarden780]

@@billbaillie3702 NO never use anything on the sealant to tool it.That is why it is called dry tooled. Any type of liquid will interfere with the bond. Anytime you see someone wet tooling it is a sure sign they don’t know what they are doing. That is the real advantage of SSL is the tool marks will flow out so you don’t have to be as good at tooling the sealant

[@siddharthkrish85]

You could use an expandable foam vs. the Backer rod so you can avoid going back and forth with cutting the Backer rod to suit the cracks. An even easier method IMO is to use a pre-mix cement screed which you can buy as a dry-mix in a bag. Just add the recommended water and pour into the cracks directly. It does have admixtures that would prevent cracking between the old and new concrete. Trust this helps.

[@thezfunk]

I think I have seen a mason on KZbin do something similar instead of sand. I think his mixture was 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement and then he wetted it to the consistency of wet sand. He packed that in the crack. It would stiffen up but remain flexible over time.

[@JohnSmith-xb4ux]

No foam or processed chemical adhesives, some crushed recycled construction waste with some cement pored onto them and everything is fixed naturally. Even stones that are around your property, if they weren't naturally formed and they come from construction, or you can buy you any recycled construction waste of the appropriate size , have a bucket for any eventuality and you can always use them as filler or even cast some bricks if you need any.

[@lily_is_awsome8453]

You could use the expanding foam but pool noodles sell at the dollar store, 3, 4 noodles is going to cost way less

[@mr.wizeguy8995]

Actually using noodle is better because that caulking form is thinner on middle and wider on side which means thin part flex easier and wide parts sticks well to concrete. IF that caulking is same thickness whole area it can peel of easier.

[@flinch622]

Trouble with expandable foam is laying a perfect bead down to suit expansion rate. This almost never happens, which means shaving it down - p.i.t.a. The noodle is cheap and bendy: perfect for irregular lines.

[@RO-rr3tx]

Nice video. You could use water pipe wrap. They have 1/2, 3/4 and 1" tubes at your local lumber yard.

[@wrongstatephoto]

OH! if you can't find pool noodles in your area (Colorado doesn't have alot of pools), pipe insulation works too.

[@jlivewell]

I cannot tell you how many projects around my house that you have given me the confidence to do. I really appreciate the information.

[@wollinger]

How to mickey mouse and waste money.

[@sminthian]

They make foam pipe wraps in all different sizes, they would be a lot easier than cutting up a pool noodle.

[@diyhvacguy]

This was so satisfying to watch lol nice job 👊🏼

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks buddy 👍

[@johnferris4237]

I love it. The solid concrete will continue to move but with the sand, foam, and the self leveling caulking will move as the environment demands. Where did you buy the self levelling caulking?

[@markwillie]

The link is in the description section under the video. Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL: amzn.to/3kt0yOX

[@dynamite3344]

Just clean up the cracks and fill them with concrete. Problem solved 🤷‍♂️

[@Vro-]

Very cool, I'm also a crafter so I always have the pool noodles! I also learned from another channel who uses this & foam in his monster props, that you can use a heat gun to make the foam stick/glue itself together if you want to 😉

[@bethanyanderson1745]

@Vro - you use a heat gun to make the foam stick to what exactly? Thanks

[@Vro-]

@@bethanyanderson1745 You can shape it, stretch it, stick it to itself, check out Stiltbeaststudios pool noodle pumpkins. He uses pool noodles, foam pipe insulation all the time & learned the technique from him.

[@bethanyanderson1745]

@@Vro- - thank you for replying. I'm not a handyman so perhaps that's why I'm not seeing the connection between filling a cement crack and heating a pool noodle /foam.

[@CraigFromTheLand]

This is a cool idea but I've found that using spray foam is much easier as it conforms to every bit of the crack in there and there's no need to make cuts unless you use too much

[@mvg2x34]

This is a pretty elegant solution. I owned a home where the garage slab cracked and had I known how to do this, I would have. This is a 100% solution versus using patchmaster to fill the gap which in hind sight was a 50% solution.

[@michaellink6960]

I used a very similar technique to repair concrete walkway, but instead of sprinkling sand as the last step, I used some dry mortar mix. The finished product will more closely match the concrete walkway.

[@jstravelers4094]

Great idea. And as I posted in my own comment, I would use a generous amount and simply sweep off excess the next day.

[@sonjalewis3047]

Carefully explained & clearly demonstrated, with just the right amount of speed-up, and NO CHITCHAT OR MUSIC. And important info about drainage issues in freeze-thaw climates. Thank you!! Instead of the drill attachment, a wire brush would also work, right?

[@youtubevanced4900]

If my experience with pool noodles at our pool are anything to go by, those noodles last about a year before they disintegrate. Maybe they would last longer when buried like that.

[@stevend984]

Boy...you are a magnet for cement issues! Finally...someone pickier than me...Cool Vid!

[@gyulamolnar8971]

It's nonsense. Concrete does not crack by accident. Instead of putting such things in every crack, they should prevent the cracking. It should be concreted so that it does not crack.

[@barbnorton]

Cool! You make things look easy, yet, doable! I love your pace, explanations, and clarity. Even, I, think I might be able to do that! - I like your videos! 😀 -Thank you!

[@uaccumanno]

B😂😢 I just got at 😮😮

[@donaldhubert7734]

Hello 👋

[@imim4136]

*my way is cut your cement nice and square with a diamond blade Skil circular saw and re-cement it with Portland cement concrete.*

[@georgerife8729]

For a smaller crack but still large enough that it would need a lot of sealant, I had good results stuffing in pieces of or whole corks saved from wine bottles that I had on hand, then sealant over. I like the suggestion of putting sand in deeper cracks.

[@WhoIsWhatIDK]

What sealant do you use?

[@henrytaverner1803]

Why not use pre mixed concrete to fix the gap?

[@mike_98058]

I'll be doing this soon. I was planning to apply a light dusting of cement atop the sealant. I think it would be a better color match than sand. Or is that a bad idea?

[@lot6129]

Could/nt you just fill the whole crack with the SSL filler?

[@Wazup4177]

I tried something a bit different. I used Dow expanding spray foam to fill the crack. It dries quickly, then I used the ssl to seal up. Worked great and saved me the time of having to cut and shape backer foam. A word of caution, don't go buck wild with the spray foam, it expands big time.... Whichever way you go, the crack gets fixed....

[@ollie54able]

👍🏻

[@therebellion6911]

They make low expanding.

[@Wazup4177]

@@therebellion6911 yeah, I had to learn that the hard way.....lol ...

[@royjohnson465]

Warning, I tried expanded foam in a concrete (cement) crack and it did not work. The foam gets chipped out and discolored.

[@genecarden780]

It is very difficult to control joint depth with foam. And for the SSL to perform properly the depth needs to be very consistent. And the profile of the sealant will be incorrect. These things matter for the sealant to perform properly.It is a quicker and easier solution but not a quality solution .

[@zacharyparis]

Confirmed. This also worked on the giant gap in my front teeth.

[@aaronfagerstrom34]

Pretty good homeowner repair. You can make it a pro repair by adding a primer to the concrete before sealing

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice tip, the primer was new to me but had a few guys mention that now. Appreciate the feedback.

[@davidpershing9934]

is just using a little portland 'n' sand blend (and a trowel !) too direct, too easy, & too cost effective? Jesus !!!

[@lorettaresendez1970]

You are such a great professional 👏 at teaching people the way to fix problems that bug us as we pass by that crack everyday. 🙂

[@cassandra5984]

I'm doing this between concrete/aggregate slabs. There is a 3/4 wide and 3/4 deep gap to fill. 10 @10' long gaps of SSL caulk would cost a fortune. Can we make the noodle middle closer to the top? Fill in sides with silicone sealant and top with SSL caulk? How can I make this affordable? Thanks!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hey Cassandra, you might want to check the big box stores in your area. I found a large tube of Vulkem 45 SSL for about $18 which is about 1/3 of the current price on Amazon.

[@patpatpat999]

For the large irregular crack, I would have cut it out with a skillsaw and diamond blade, then pour in a new section. It would look better, and a diamond blade is surprising cheap online.

[@Jd-pz1lf]

sorry but i would recommend not doing this. a fing floaty?? com on man

[@stevea.8816]

Good stuff, you cant rush the early steps. I had a boss once that saw me half assing something he said " You do all the steps or you will be stepping to another job" . Never forget it.

[@johnmalcolm4822]

Or get a small bag of ready mixed concrete and some steel wool for reinforcement.

[@iac4357]

13:20 I've also mixed spare Mortar Powder with the Sand, for repairs like this. Seem to me that the Powder would harden, and prevent the Sand from washing away.

[@MNDrummer]

Ok, so I literally tried this technique this past weekend. At first I thought, wow, this is going to be great. I filled the crack with the backer and then spread on the self-leveling concrete caulk. I sprinkled a little sand over it and it looked good. Here is the problem I am having. The next day it appears that much of the caulk seeped into the backer so I can see the round shape and the entire thing is lower than it was. Ugggg. All hope is not lost. I'm going to go get some additional caulk or other concrete filler I have used before and put it on top of this. I'm hoping that whatever soaked through the first time has now harded enough where subsequent applications will stay on top. In theory, another application should do the trick. I just wanted to share my experience. I'm not sure if there is a particular type of backer rod that should be used, clearly the stuff I used soaked up the caulk.

[@MNDrummer]

By the way, as someone else mentioned, I'd probably just use some expandable foam next time. I've done this under my steps and other places. You just have to be careful as some of that stuff will keep expanding forever and then it becomes a mess to cut it out and clean up.

[@zefrum3]

Spray Foam would be the preferable product for those large irregular gaps; cut down, then sealed with the SSL/SL sealant

[@genecarden780]

The spray foam contaminates the substrate and compromises the bond of the SSL. And it doesn’t give the proper joint profile of thinner in the middle and thicker at the sides which is essential for proper sealant performance

[@zefrum3]

@@genecarden780 nope; and yes Spray Foam actually does give proper support and fills the voids, which w/o would allow for further erosion. Spray foam or mud pumped in to fill those large voids is the only right way to do it. And a SSL will not interact with spray foam.

[@Squee_Dow]

A+ video! Nicely done! Question: Can this sidewalk be pressure washed to brighten it up after doing this method?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

For sure, I prefer using a surface cleaner if I am doing the whole driveway kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLMnKd3mcSbfMk

[@slatsgrobneck7515]

Very nice results - looks great! Will be using this repair on sidewalk at an apartment complex. Heh would you consider showing us how you keep your tools and material organized? Earlier I noticed your tote for electrical connectors. Thinking I need one just like it! For those of us that do sidewalk, yard drainage, electrical and plumbing all in the same week, how to keep everything organized! Awesome channel for DIYers and multi-trades maintenance folks. Thanks!

[@peterryan7340]

Use multiple tool bags. 1 for plumbing, 1 for electrical, 1 for general maintenance, 1 for patching/painting/minor carpentry repairs

[@pearlperlitavenegas2023]

I also use plastic 5 gallon buckets to help out. But yeah it gets crazy!!!

[@36736fps]

Rather than chopping up a bright color pool noodle, use foam pipe insulation which comes in several sizes from about 1.5" to 2.5" OD and is black or dark gray. Also the insulation comes pre split along its length.

[@maxxc7534]

those foam pipe insulation noodles are great. it takes pool noodle hacks to a whole new level. cheap too

[@Scentsational-Vdo]

Awesome way to repair! Quick and concise.

[@LisaJohnson-dx1dp]

Actually, if you're going to go to the trouble of doing all of that, it would be smart to power wash it all before that process. It's a simple thing to do to make the entire project much more satisfying and professional.

[@stevefrancis1191]

Yeah but then you gotta wait for the water to dry and I doubt most people have the patience for that lol.

[@deejay4839]

Wish I’d seen this some years earlier. I have concrete steps with a massive crack that goes always through. I filled it up with spray foam, not the best fix but it keeps the wasps out. I’m going to rework the crack using this method. Thanks.

[@shelley6746]

Great fix! Subscribed 07/18/22 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Welcome to the team 🙌

[@janhunt6214]

Awesome step by step tutorial. Thank you for the info.

[@atanasiomartinez]

Great video. May I ask, does the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL dry hard or is it more like tough rubber?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Once set it still have some flexibility, so more like tough rubber.

[@PeterShipley1]

the top layer of sand also protects against UV breaking down the sealant over time...

[@PeterShipley1]

@frank blunt any fix the crack like that is temporary, whatever movement caused that crack we'll crack the fix. personally I use a mortar mix with a little extra sand as backfill before applying a flexible sealant.

[@chimeexpress8603]

Good video. 2 suggestions I have is… 1. pressure wash the sidewalk and repair site first if pressure washer is available…. 2. For the jagged crack I would get a electric saw with a concrete blade and make straight clean edges first.

[@kevlwms]

Great video! Would you use this technique for a gap between concrete steps and the foundation of a house? The gap is quite deep - about 3 feet down to the ground.

[@rollandjoeseph]

No

[@BStride]

Nice video. Sand at the end definitely helps with mimicking texture of surrounding concrete also

[@paolabueso]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you so much for sharing this.

[@FerozSiddique-ik2xd]

Great video ! As mentioned, before using pool noodles as backer rods, check if they are open-cell or closed-cell foam. Remember how squeezing some kinds of pool noodles leads to water dripping out? Those are made of open-cell foam. Open cell or Polyurethane foam will soak in water and is not a good choice for filling material in concrete. Closed cell or Polyethylene foam is a much better choice.

[@wheepingwillow24u17]

WOW, THAT'S PRETTY COOL HOW YOU DID THAT. QUESTION: MY POOL DECK HAS BROKEN, BUT ITS DIFFERENT HEIGHTS, HOW ON EARTH AM I TO LEVEL THAT OUT? THANKS

[@johnnypena1083]

Good idea. Have you tried dry cement at the end instead of sand ? It might help blend better.

[@therebellion6911]

Some possible advice. Use silica sand, not play sand. Play sand is dirty and will genraly leave a residue on the side. Use silica sand all the way to the level you want ditching the foam and on wider cracks take a trowel lightly on both edges so the sand has a slight hump in the center so you get extra bonding on edges and stretchy in middle. Put your caulking along both edges so it doesnt flatten the center and then fill the center. If you use the backer rod that is two small, use a non self leveling on on both sides to seal the edges. Good to have this on hand to dam the ends anyways. If you use the self leveling Sika he mentioned is good and comes in sandstone witch is a better color 80% of the time. IDK about his Simi leveling stuff but dont sprinkle sand on sika unless you go really light. It can sink in and raise the level of the caulking. These are just other methods. Nothing wrong with the video in general though except Im not a fan of the sand sprinkling but that just me. MY BIGGEST tip though is if your are doing more than 6-8' of caulking in the video like a whole drive way, buy a decent caulk gun. Not the pc of crap he was using, Your gun should run around 25.00 plus and you can thank me later. Your looking for something with a minimum 12:1 ratio and 18:1 is better. This goes for either size tubes. I think in smaller tubes you can even get 24:1.

[@matt7iron]

So i can use silica sand in my 1- 2 inch wide staggerd driveway crack and pack it down and just cover it with this caulk material and it will dry and hold.

[@therebellion6911]

@@matt7iron First use silica sand instead of play sand or all purpose sand no matter how you do it because its much cleaner. Its so clean there will be no packing, it does not pack. Anything that packs isn't clean sand. It will run into the smallest cracks. IMO yes it will dry and hold just as good. Been doing it for yrs with no problems. There is no problem with using sand and then foam but I dont see the reason for it and its much harder to do that way and more expensive. As far as holding that depends on how much you concrete moves in the winter. No caulking will hold up to 2" of movement ib the winter and some concrete does move that much but its rare. Its also more likely to tear free if you are caulking moving concrete to non moving concrete (something with a footing under it). Like dives at garages. sidewalks at stoops. sonaborn sl1 is by far one of the stickiest and stretchiest caulking for something with alot of movement however its also more likely to swell and discolor so there is a give and take. If it swells it can be a trip hazzard. That was yrs ago and maybe they fixed the problem but it left a bad taste in my mouth and all the local places stopped selling it. I use Sika from lowes now. Gets more like a firm rubber and is good in minimal moving joints. I would love to see someones reasoning on not using sand. The ones given to me on why to use foam/backer rod wouldn't be a problem with silica sand either. BTW Im not a fan of sprinkling sand on top, however if you do silica sand isn't the right one unless your concrete is white.

[@JodBronson]

*Don't fix your crack..... Sell it to your neighbors!* 😁😆😅🤣😂

[@RCinginSC]

Thanks for the tip. Just started following you. I've always been a DIYer and always looking for great tips. Thanks 👍

[@deedickinson8842]

Kevin, midwest? Not coast line.