How To Use A Multimeter for Home Repairs and Troubleshooting

[@evanwilcox82]

As an irrigation technician, I use a multimeter everyday in the field when troubleshooting residential sprinkler systems. This is huge for the DIY home owner because it is not cheap for me to make a home visit. I test voltage to make sure each solenoid is getting at least 24V. This is the minimum required to open a valve. Measure the common against the zone that is currently running. Run through each zone and make sure they are all getting required voltage (only the zone currently running should be getting voltage). If a zone won't turn on but it is getting the required voltage you are looking at a problem with the solenoid. Take an Ohms measurement with the timer turned off this time going through each zone. Again, common against each zone wire. You want to see a range of about 23-60 Ohms. If you get an OL reading, you probably have a loose connection in the manifold (Valve box) or a broken line somewhere between your timer and manifold. If the Ohms reading is below the range, Your solenoid should be replaced. Sometimes the issue comes down to the timer malfunctioning and bugging, but with these steps you can get an idea of what to focus on. Hope this helps!

[@MECX3490]

You should do a video on that subject…it’s very confusing to DIYers! I know….I am one!

[@bobbychuckles8764]

How do you get started getting clients? I have commissioned a few installs including new pumps. Are people searching for "irrigation technician"? Where should I advertise?

[@conisims1728]

Boy I wish you’d do a video! I am having trouble with this exact issue right now! Can you suggest a good site to find help?

[@jonfreeman9682]

Great tip on fixing irrigation. Didn't even know this was something you could do yourself. Always thought you needed a professional.

[@akuunreach]

Clearly not an electrician If your (black) probe were hot (120v) if you went hot to ground, that would be a ground fault So clearly this is inaccurate, unless your meter is faulty or damaged, it's completely safe to touch the probe while the other is connected to hot Also due to the nature of AC (alternating current) it does not matter which probe color goes where when taking a measurement

[@MileyonDisney]

Two minutes into the video, and I already got some IMPORTANT information - don't have a probe in the hot side without a probe in ground or neutral. I did not know that. Thanks!

[@aliancemd]

My multimeter instructions(UNI-T manual) specifically warn to connect COM first(black/ground/neutral) and then the positive side(red).

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@BarryBollox.]

Just treat them like they are both Hot, ie don't be waving one stick around when testing. Your tester is essentially adding wiring to a live circuit which is only complete when both ends are connected. And firkin dangerous when its not completed.

[@aviandragon1390]

This is nonsense. You can stick that "hot" probe up your rectum and you wouldn't feel anything besides the point. Multimeters have extremely high impedance which will block virtually all current coming through, even if you manage to accidentally complete the circuit.

[@ddistrbd1]

HI . I am a DIYer and even though I do not have much basic home electrical knowledge, I still went ahead and bought a Klein 390 multimeter (for simple tests, heater temp. reading),your videos have been a source of refence for me, you explain things thoroughly for us simple homeowners even if they may sound repetitive /boring to seasoned electricians. one thing I would like to see is how to "prevent/avoid damages" to a multimeter ,or " things not to do with your multimeter"

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@rhoonah5849]

I studied electrical engineering in college and purchased a Micronta multi-meter back in 1990 when I was in college and I still have it and use it today. I can promise that is the single most used tool in my entire workshop. It's an older style where I need to select the voltage range, etc. but it still works like a champ.

[@alfredomarquez9777]

YES, MICRONTA!!!! I also have a little less old Radio-Shack pair of multimeters, both made by the Korean company "METEX", and both very durable, quite inexpensive, very acceptable performance and acceptable accuracy. The older one is not autorange, but measures many things, and the less old one is autorange. They cost me 30 and 20 USD back in the middle of the 1990s, and both have DB-9 digital output that I used a lot for checking and plotting the actual discharge curve of batteries. BTW, my neighbor had a much older Micronta multimeter that has endured the test of time, probably since the early 1980s, and still works perfectly. A shame that nowadays Radio-Shack no longer has that kind of devices!

[@rhoonah5849]

@@alfredomarquez9777 Yeah I loved radio shack when you could actually go in there and buy some diodes, transistors, etc. I made a few projects based all on radio shack components.

[@TapTwoCounterspell]

More so that s Phillips screwdriver?

[@rhoonah5849]

@@TapTwoCounterspell You may be having a stroke.

[@chuckb4375]

As others pointed out, Step#0 is to assure probe is NOT plugged into 10A or mA jack. Typical meters have two fuses (one dedicated to 10A circuit), but at the very least it’s unwanted nuisance to find and pay for replacement fuses. Great job communicating safety when probing receptacles - it’s Last In, First Out (LIFO) for the hot lead...

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks Chuck 👍

[@millomweb]

I wouldn't go probing anything without turning the meter on first either !

[@kobra6335]

@@millomweb - That's the same advice my wife gives me.

[@jaredstephan8467]

9 13

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@Xxshadowman11xX]

Please make sure to wear insulated gloves and short your capacitor with the blade of a screwdriver before you go measuring them. The start capacitors in air conditioners, refrigerators, washing machines, automotive, etc. can absolutely kill you if you short them with your body. They can hold charge for weeks / months depending on the rating, so this is a MUST DO step. Stay safe.

[@terrysmith4465]

Ok, safety Sally

[@stoopidbastid6420]

funny, in the days when cars and lawnmowers used points and condensers, you could charge one up and toss it to a buddy. good times

[@plur90]

@@stoopidbastid6420 Electrical condensers are capacitors, condenser is just another word for capacitor

[@altuber99_athlete]

Yes, they can store charge and render you a shock. But no, they can’t kill you.

[@kimbrown5297]

No, you don't have to short a capacitor if it has a bleed off diode on it. It will bleed itself off as soon as it is de-energized. But if you don't know how to tell the capacitor has bleed off it is best left to a qualified professional.

[@johnstangel8918]

You forgot to mention that if they are doing capacitors to discharge them before messing with them because they carry a hell of a wallop. Great video.

[@karenkrohn8003]

Can confirm!

[@Bambooken]

How do you discharge capacitors?

[@johnstangel8918]

Put a screw driver across the two contacts making sure you are not touching the metal part of the screw driver.

[@BillSmith-rx9rm]

​@@johnstangel8918not knowing anything about capacitors, I would have thought that shorting it out in that way could damage it.

[@aviandragon1390]

It can... But it's better than it damaging you.

[@geodavid51]

I've been using meters for decades and thought I knew a lot about multi-meters but I never knew about how to check an outlet (which meter lead to put where and what order). Thanks for all our great videos!

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@photonic]

You should set the meter to the function you want before you put the probe in the outlet (or connect it to anything else that might be energized). If you momentarily set the meter to measure the wrong thing after it's connected, you could blow the fuse in the meter or possibly damage the equipment you're testing.

[@jonfreeman9682]

Good tip. I blew my fuse not knowing why but think it's because it goes thru the milliamps test dial which is only rated for a meager 250 milliamps so instant blowout.

[@Tool-Meister]

Glad to see you address capacitance. I gave a full-function DVM to my son-in-law as a thank you gift. He called with a non-functional garage door opener problem. I talked him through a safe test of the starter capacitor. Less than $10 later, all was good. Clearly the $40 meter paid for itself!

[@alfredomarquez9777]

Tools, and knowing how to properly use them, will always pay for themselves, sonner or later!

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@patstevens7159]

Thanks Scott. I'm really enjoying your channel and find it super helpful. Another DIY'er use for a multimeter is testing voltage on doorbell transformers. As the newer smart doorbells usually need between 16-24 volts and not all homes meet those requirements. Thanks again.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good callout Pat, thanks for the help 👍

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@marcberm]

Great video! I feel like the multimeter is misunderstood by the average DIY-er because on the surface it seems complicated, but the flexibility and range of things you can use it for vs. just a neon/non-contact voltage tester makes it indespensible.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hey Marc, completely agree. In terms of being to troubleshoot and find root cause of failures the Multimeter is top of my list. 👍

[@NagashiChidorii]

I used a multimeter to test the solenoid that helps control water flow of my discounted laundry washing machine and of course it was faulty. I wish i knew more to make use of the multimeter!

[@plkracer]

As long as your probes are in the Volts measurement position on the meter, and the dial is on the correct measurement, you won't receive a shock through the probe tips, the resistance through the meter is in the megaohm range (unless you have a low impedence meter, or a LoZ option, read the manual!). Depending on the meter you need to be careful as some use the milliamp sensor through the same port, and the selection dial controls the current flow through the meter. You need to explain the importance of having the probes in the proper positions prior to measuring. Having them in the 10A position can yield a nasty spark at 120VAC.

[@mosmosspam]

Same thoughts, missed the first key part for setup. I know this cause I put a cheap harbor freight one into a socket and didnt pay attention to where the leads where, big spark, tripped the breaker, and melted the probe end a bit.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

@@mosmosspam lol I don't have to worry about that, I have a clamp meter that measures up to 400 amps, AC and DC though you do have to make sure you are set to volts, not ohms, capacitance or temperature (the K thermocouple plugs into the same jacks as the test leads. ) some food for thought.

[@wizcombo]

@@Sparky-ww5re 400 amps Jesus!

[@OGRH]

Exactly! This should have been titled: “Using the buttons on a Klein MM600” This was a very poor tutorial to say the least!

[@heythere6983]

Can putting the the poles in the wrong spots (backwards) damage whatever I’m measuring? So if I touch with the black where I should be using red and vice versa could that cause issues? I’m using this device to measure things other than outlets too. Like guitar electronics. In wondering if the multi meter itself could send electricity back and short something in general?

[@danmidkiff5416]

The symbols for A/C and D/C voltage shown on a multimeter come from measuring these different types of voltage using an oscilloscope. A/C, or alternating current, is represented on an oscilloscope as a syne wave, the amplitude of which will determine the amount of voltage. D/C, or direct current, is represented on an oscilloscope as a strait line. The center, or ZERO line, of an oscilloscope is a dashed line. The solid line, representing the applied D/C voltage to be measured, will move up (depending on your range setting) to the correct place to indicate that voltage. When the early types of meters that we have today started coming out, these symbols were used so us old guys would know what they meant. Kinda like the symbol used on an on/off button on a modern computer (a circle with a vertical line running through it). This represents the binary code for on and off (a 1 and a zero). Or, the old floppy disc symbol for saving stuff. Just my 2 cents. Thanx for reading.

[@etherealrose2139]

Then you should know it's a sine wave (sinusoidal) there is no 'y' in it.

[@charlesdowns1691]

how do i safely check ignition coils. i know its in resistance mode.

[@dougb8207]

@@charlesdowns1691 you might want to get some good advice on that. Coils can build up a charge, and resistance mode of multimeters generates a charge. Meaning, you could charge up the coil and get quite a shock if you're not careful.

[@kevmarcol780]

As a DIY man, I use a Fluke 77 that I've had since 1986. I test voltage and resistance in the house as well as when I deal with vehicles. I recently had an issue with my AC Unit and it turned out to be a bad capacitor. Luckily my son-in-law has his own AC business, so I was able to get it taken care of the same day. If I had multimeter that measured capacitance, I could have figured it out myself. Great information in the video as well.

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@tonym6920]

I have the Klein MM2000 meter, almost identical to the one you demonstrated. I purchased it a few years ago, comes in real handy. Like you, I check the charge on my car and riding mower batteries, check the temp coming from the HVAC vents, check household batteries (AA, AAA, 9v), continuity on different things, wall outlets etc. I never used it on the cap on my heat pump, but I know there are unusually specs that tell you what the microfarad reading should read for the compressor and the fan. A multimeter is one of those tools that you continually find new uses for once you get it lol Thanks for the vid. 👍👍

[@goodun2974]

In most cases, testing household batteries with a digital voltmeter will *not* weed out weak household batteries (unless perhaps it has a dedicated battery test circuit); The high impedance of the meter will not load down the battery sufficiently to duplicate the type of conditions that the battery will encounter in most devices that it is to be used in, including many LED flashlights! I actually prefer using an old analog Simpson or Triplett Volt meter with a much lower impedance (typically 1K ohms per volt) for checking batteries, as those will load the battery more similarly to it's actual intended in-circuit usage. I also have several little analog battery checkers with hinged contacts: a modern purchased at Harbor freight, and another one that I bought at least 30 years ago. The Harbor Freight device does not reject batteries when they get weak in the same fashion that my older battery tester does, and when I examined them both and measured their loading characteristics with an ohmmeter, I found that the Harbor Freight battery tester uses a 130 ohm load resistor and the 30 year old battery tester has a 30 ohm resister inside of it! Lots of crappy batteries will "pass" when tested with the Harbor Freight device but fail when tested with my ancient battery checker that forces them to work harder..

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@DamirUlovec]

01:20 I will agree with other that multimeters in voltage range have about 9 - 11 MΩ resistance between probes (a MUST for measuring high voltages!), so it can't zap or even shock you. The only danger is when you touch the black probe with one hand (for example) and NEUTRAL or GROUND wire with your other hand. Even in that scenario, current flow through your body will be about 0.024 mA, which is way below 35 - 50 mA (which is most dangerous for human body). Please be aware that applies ONLY, and ONLY to standard voltage measurements, since some multimeters have LoZ (low impedance) mode. In LoZ mode impedance between probes may be as low as 2 kΩ, so the current in above scenario may be about 120mA, and that can result in some serious shock, or even death. Anyway, thanks for the effort in making this video.

[@goodun2974]

It is worth noting that when I was a kid, in the days of analog multimeters, the impedance of the meter was often only 1k ohms per volt (unless you had a fancy high-impedance VTVM), and therefore when measuring 120VAC the load introduced by the meter was only 120K ohms, so yes, touching the bare tip of one probe while the other probe was connected to a voltage source could give you a nasty shock (even more so if you were working on a tube amp circuit at 400 volts DC or more). Modern digital meters perform more like a high impedance VTVM (vacuum tube voltmeter) and don't load the circuit down at all, which is usually a plus, but can give you erroneous readings in vintage-electronics work, where the original voltage readings as noted on the schematic may have been made with a low impedance analog meter, and use of a digital meter may give you much higher readings (be sure to use the correct-impedance meter for calibration procedures!). I actually use an analog meter frequently for electronics bench-work, as they are not only handy for a quick short-circuit and junction-drop test of diodes and transistors without the jumping around and fluctuations that occur with a digital meter, but an analog meter will also load batteries down more than the digital meter does, and so batteries that seem to measure OK on the digital meter may actually give up the ghost when you put them into any kind of device that outs a decent load on them. The low impedance of an analog meter will quickly show you which batteries should be tossed!

[@okaro6595]

The meter may be at a diffrerent setting. When you do things often enough and do not do things safely at some point the accident can happen.

[@tedlahm5740]

Obvious we missed the ground side when placing the probe the first time. Great information. Clear. A little cloudy on the max. voltage setting. All zeros. Thank you very much.

[@meangreen7389]

I think I understand your fuzziness on the range voltage setting. On my multimeter screen, when I select AC, the screen has four zeros. The decimal point will be just on the right of the first zero as I press the range button. Example: 0.000 This range can only read 9.999 volts. The next range is 00.00 and reads up to 99.99 volts. The next is 000.0 which will read up to 999.9 volts. The last one is 0000 or up to 9,999 volts. I only use my multimeter once or twice a year and therefore purchased an AstroAI DM6000AR.

[@anandkkpr]

Wow, thank you SO MUCH for this detailed information and tutorial on how to use the Klien Multimeter!!! I'm a total rookie homeowner and learning this stuff has helped me to no end. Talk about teaching a person to fish! Thank you!!!🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽😄

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@tc-s3510]

I don't know how I ended up on your channel, but I'm so happy I did. I'm learning so much and, reviewing your videos, has already answered multiple questions that I've had. Thank you so much for putting your knowledge out here for us. And thank you for showing it straight up without adding any distracting background music.

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@catfish24]

Why don't they make things simple buy just having AC and DC on the DAM THING instead of some little wavy stupid lines.

[@reggier2343]

This fing part!

[@JillofAllTrades2]

Because then they’d have to call it a unimeter. Or a duometer at best. 😮 👍🏻 But, yeh, I use it just enough to have to look the fing thing up every time! 🤯😡

[@dudeleboski2692]

I wrote on it with a marker pen ac/dc

[@glasshalffull2930]

My less expensive one has both squiggly lines and letters ‘AC’.

[@LosmiPZS]

If you have a basic knowledge you should know that ~ is AC because it changes its polarity. I mean its very simple

[@pstgh]

You should probably note that people should make sure to short out a capacitor before handling- as you know, they are designed to hold energy, so unless they are shorted out, they can and will shock you.

[@catfish24]

Your absolutely wright I touched one in the back of our old TV one time and it shot me across the room.

[@ricardoa4322]

Run capacitor don't hold charge start capacitor do however

[@Stevenowski]

@@ricardoa4322 That's not accurate. However, it's always good to use a bleed resistor to ensure it's not charged. People are shocked to learn that I'm an electrician.

[@mcgavin098]

Oftentimes, it zaps you from one hand to the other, which gets you across your heart. Not good.

[@tchevrier]

voltmeters have a very high resistance so you aren't going to get a shock from touching the black probe with the red still in the outlet. I would suggest that testing a capacitor might not be the best thing for a homeowner to be playing with. They can still have charge on them.

[@Hitman.13.]

Yep no way you re getting shocked at 120V from touching 1 probe, I just put the black probe in my mouth to test how much my boots insulate me, it was still reading around 38V, but once I touch the wall with my finger it jumps to 120V, I did the demonstration to teach the new guy about grounding and the concept of getting shocked.

[@catsspat]

That is true, but it's still a good practice because the user might have accidentally left the meter in current mode (as opposed to voltage mode), which has very low resistance. Of course, if the user connects both probes in that mode, it'll immediately blow the fuse, but before that happens, the other probe is indeed hot and dangerous.

[@tchevrier]

@@catsspat how often have you used your multimeter in current mode? I placed the leads in the wrong spot once. There wasn't anything left of the meter.

[@totallyfrozen]

@@catsspat Comes down to paying attention to detail. If a person cannot be bothered with that, they probably should just hire a professional. A healthy respect for electricity goes a long way toward safely working with it.

[@benengleman1707]

@@catsspat why would current go through your body when it's got a short it can get through (i.e. multimeter in current mode connecting hot-neutral or hot-ground)? Also that's a fused connection.

[@bentback1]

That was a great video, but may I suggest that you say not to measure continuity in an energized circuit, and when measuring voltage start at the highest range, and keep in mind some circuits have a HOT ground. Thanks

[@danilodistefanis5990]

Hello! What do you mean hot ground ?

[@saundersryan20]

What 👆said! Not one ground should be hot and if it is you have a serious problem!

[@brianfreeman3676]

Some of the older British cars used a positive ground system.

[@ellerybice3787]

UtO! We have an electrical power short fuse sparking in wire isle 120V. €¥

[@RepairRenovateRenew]

top comment, never make assumptions with electricity

[@pgoncalves007]

Great video for anyone that starting using a meter. If I can make a suggestion? Do a continuity test before ever using the meter. Being an air conditioning tech I had one meter that had a bad lead on it once.

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@YT-User1013]

OMG, all the times i've probed the sockets not knowing or realizing red first means the black is live!! Thank you, great videos by the way.

[@davidmarquardt9034]

The black and red leads are obviously for DC, red has always been the + positive side. Having the correct polarity in DC is EXTREMELY important. Many DC components are killed if installed with reverse polarity. In AC that's not so important as in DC. If you put the + on the -- screw on a DC motor, it will run counter-clockwise. In AC switching hot and neteul leads, while not ideal, the motor rotation is not affected.

[@jonfreeman9682]

Great tutorial covering everything you need to do for home repairs. Really you only need two function 1. voltage for batteries / AC lines and 2. continuity for fuses. That covers 99% of your home repairs. A NCV tester really comes in handy to detect live wires. Also noticed this Klein model smartly placed the amp test on the left side and everything else on the right side so you don't blow the fuse.

[@davepaturno4290]

As a non-electrician, I use an Extech multimeter. I've found them to be very reliable and reasonably priced. And because I do not use my DMM every day, I use lithium AA batteries in it. They are virtually leak-proof, unlike alkaline batteries that often leak from non-use and then corrode contacts.

[@jonfreeman9682]

Lithium is expensive and probably costs more than your meter. That being said they hold their energy forever and it'll last the life of your meter. Like probably 20 years. My alkaline lasts already 10+ years and counting still but I don't use it much.

[@davepaturno4290]

@@jonfreeman9682 $2.40 each in packs of 8 for Energizer lithium AA batteries. That's definitely not the same cost as the multimeter.

[@jonfreeman9682]

@@davepaturno4290 That is really cheap for lithium battery. Definitely worth it as it'll last the life of the meter. No more fumbling for batteries.

[@musoangelo]

Just a quick note. @1:08, you insert the black probe into the neutral, but you say that it's the ground side.

[@parexc07]

I have many DMM's for auto-truck-AC electrical. One of my favorites (if I can keep up with the batteries it eats) is my Fluke removal display head model 233. Great for testing and you need to be away from the power source, say a truck or bus and need to check the rear lights. Just slide off the magnetic display and it will receive the info from the main body for up to about 40-50 feet away. Perfect for a One-Man operation.

[@dustinboyce25]

That's a great meter if you like to replace batteries. That portable head chews through 'em at an unbelievable rate

[@goodun2974]

Have you tried the special Eveready lithium-infused "Lithium Max" batteries?

[@warrenosborne6044]

It's good, even for us old timers to run through information. Anything gleaned can be added. Thank you.

[@robertpennington5247]

As a sparky in Australia our outlets are different from top left Active Neutral and earth on the bottom. We use test lamps for testing 240v power and polarity. As we have Rcds we trip them by putting the probes between active and earth

[@SARDOG]

I do have a non contact multitester. I got this multimeter a while ago and finally broke it out to use it. Putting up Christmas lights and verified the continuity of the lights. Stupid string lights lol Thank you for the info. Gotta say, I've done a lot w my non contact for years for what I always needed. Getting a multimeter always seemed to be wizard making lol All the electricians I've ever known were a little crazy 🤪

[@GTVAlfaMan]

Wow, all these years I’ve been using a multimeter and I was not aware of this danger! Thank you for this video,

[@billminckler6550]

FANTASTIC overview of a practical multimeter. Really appreciated the safety advice of neutral first and then hot lead! 👏. Finally, I just purchased the Klein MM700. This session was like a product user guide! 👍 ❤

[@brendanlawton7518]

Great run through. I purchased the same model a few years back. Was the most capable meter . In my personal view that Home Depot had at the time. Has worked great for my needs so far.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback 👍

[@dandeleona4760]

Thanks for this. I bought a multimeter for DIY because my father had one and used it all the time, but after unboxing I realized I had no idea how to use it and it went right back into the case for A YEAR. Turns out I couldn't just read the dials and figure it out on my own, unlike many other DIY tools I have. It's not very intuitive (or maybe I'm not). I watched video tutorials but not having used one in any application, what they were saying had no meaning to me. This puts meter use in perspective and I use it pretty regularly now. Thanks!

[@Autophysn]

I just picked up a clamp meter. Trying to understand current and how to use the information to troubleshoot. Good stuff! Love your videos! Thank you for sharing knowledge!!!!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hey Richard, thanks for the support!

[@Sam-ey1nn]

I recommend getting a clamp multimeter so you can measure current as well. It's nice to have it all in one tool.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Those are slick 👍

[@robertkat]

Can't measure DC with a camp on.

[@julio2rivera]

@@robertkat Some of the newer ones do indeed measure DC

[@curiosity2314]

Good advice, I have many meters but the one I use the most would be the Fluke 117 true rms. One thing I like about the Fluke is that it does state AC/DC plus the symbols so those that may be new to meters don't have to guess.

[@totallyfrozen]

Not sure how many people NEW to meters are going to spend $180+ for a DMM

[@curiosity2314]

@@totallyfrozen I thought in the video he had asked what we use, I just listed the one I prefer.

[@edwinfriedl2446]

@@totallyfrozen i don't know about the new ones. but I spent a bundle on a Simpson 360 a long time ago and i still trust it. So money well spent on a good meter is a wise choice in the long run.

[@hughkim4989]

I am a DIY home owner with not much background in electrical engineering. I just purchased the same multimeter (Klein Tools MM600) because my buddy who is an electrical engineer said that Klein Tools makes great testing devices for the bang. Unlike Fluke, it doesn't charge you arm and leg. So far your video is very helpful, and I know how to use it!

[@blainederouen9977]

I have a voltage meter just like this one and I love it. I just bought the IP40 voltage tester. It has the laser measurement. It allows me to roughly figure how much wire to run instead of having to get my measuring tape out every time. I mainly bought this one because the range of voltage it measures. The laser measurement was a huge plus.

[@StagArmslower]

I have my small business of spa repair and use multimeters all the time. I have old Fluke70 and few others plus proximity tester. Funny thing that a lot of licensed electricians don't use multimeters that often and when they are called to check the hot tub for electrical problem, they don't know what is going on, and reading schematics doesn't tell them anything. Recently I drove to spa 160 miles to remove the jumper which was installed just in case hot tub was connected to 120 volts circuit. Power connection was checked by local inspector, and he didn't see anything wrong with the installation.

[@midiman5045]

I think you made a mistake when you were explaining about which probe to pull out first of the wall outlet. You plugged in the black to Neutral but you said ground. Also could you go over Amps? Most meters are only 10 amps but that old one you had said 20 amps on it.

[@tycox8704]

Why the hell are a meter’s wires red and black when house wiring is black and white? Making it worse is that the black wires have opposite purposes!

[@ReasonableAssumption]

Property manager for 3 apartment blocks , I use the MM450 for rad actuator poptop voltages , Temp for rad fins , Hot/Grd/Neut separation and wiring correctness , appliance troubleshooting and a few other things. Bought for the thinness and yes the case :) Fits in a shirt pocket and TRMS , autoranging and 600V. Super big display and intuitive to use.

[@R3dp055um]

Good stuff. AS an American expat living in Argentina, my life is a bit more complex. Of course, the AC is 220v here, and the wires are different colors. Line is Brown, Neutral is Blue, and ground can be green, green with a yellow stripe, or even White on older installations. The plug types are mostly flat bayonet set diagonally, but the older Euro style *round* plugs and connectors still exist. Trying to find WAGO connectors is like the search for the Holy Grail. I'm not even sure they exist in 220V.

[@albertcrosbie7551]

Wago 220 connectors exist in UK

[@tracythompson1567]

I like that multimeter, ive got the Fluke 110plus which is twice the cost of the klein but has fewer features. i didnt know about order of placing probes. great info.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks, Fluke is a great brand but you do need to pay a bit more for sure.

[@bentback1]

I used a Beckman for many years and that was after I retired my Simpson 260.

[@corykroes7784]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs great detail although i like klein tools dont trust their meters. I put my trust in fluke i have a fluke 117 mm and a fluke 376 fc clamp meter which can read up to 2000amps.

[@jhenry0688]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs how do you get the probes to go inside the outlets? Mine is a different brand, they don't fit & are too short. Resistance & continuity tests get no reading. One setting on dial works, but reading just jumps around. Followed manual instructions, but nothing seems to work

[@jhenry0688]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs you also stated that you were sticking the probe into the ground side of the outlet, then you stuck it in the neutral.

[@xnavyro]

Good video, forgot about placing the negative on first, great safety measure!

[@MrCarl312]

Non contact probes do not tell you that the voltage or current is lethal, they only say there is AC detected. (does not work for DC voltage).

[@JoeSmith-tv1wo]

Pretty good video! I am a recently retired carpenter/cabinetmaker and I have done my share of standard home electrical while remodeling, but I found your tutorial very easy to understand for the average layperson. Keep up the good work! BTW, I also own that same Klein multi meter and they are worth their weight in gold!

[@user-it9ew5vz8d]

youtube.com/@InstrumentProcessManagement

[@scottyjones5597]

I got tell you as a brand new homeowner these videos help a lot. Home is not brand new bro

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Oh yeah, the repair list is long for most of us homeowners 👊

[@africanhistory]

Total TMT 47504 has all the bells and trimmings. Even lights up the port to let you know which ports to connect to. Has LED torch on it. NCV on it. Temp, it is a little big.

[@gilbertsix7106]

I have to use multimeters from time to time . I'm ok if I dont lose the directions to the unit , this video is helpful . it saves me time.

[@Starman-yt8lj]

Excellent video! I’m a complete novice when it comes to electrical stuff. Learned a lot in this one. 👍🏻

[@emaxxx13]

I just picked this up thanks. Been using an old radio shack meter that just died after over 25 years of service.

[@jakespede8522]

A year after you posted this video and I see it for the first time and learned alot! Thank you.

[@GuysGuideService479]

Got the same meter as a gift when I was on a service call to Guadalajara Mexico. Made your tutorial super easy for me lol

[@61rampy65]

You didn't mention the amp setting. You should have mentioned that if you have the red lead in either the 10A port or the .5A port, the leads are now like a jumper wire, regardless of where the dial is set, or even if the meter is off or not. Plugging the probes into something with power and ground (like you would to measure voltage) will instantly blow the (possibly) very expensive fuse in the meter, possibly damage the meter, or blow the circuit breaker of the circuit you are testing. Ammeters are ALWAYS connected in series. Best bet: if you are not sure of what you are doing, NEVER put the lead in the AMP ports! (btw, Fluke fuses are $20-$30)

[@Fresh-tw7ev]

I blew out my Commercial Electric multimeter doing that today. I watched a video that told me to connect the 10A side and I did something wrong. It’s junk now.

[@61rampy65]

@@Fresh-tw7ev I taught automotive electrical for 18 years. Trying to teach students how to use the ammeter was a Nightmare! We went thru untold 10A fuses (at least 5 or more per every 3 week long class). The school would usually supply the first, but students had to pay for their own after that at $5 each. BTW, that fuse protects ONLY the ammeter, so volts and ohms should still work.

[@carultch]

@@61rampy65 The most important thing about ammeter mode, is: Don't use it, unless you know exactly what you intend to do, and how it is supposed to work. The second most important thing to know about ammeter mode is: Put it in series with your load, and not in parallel.

[@mikecurtis1111]

1:06 "Here, I'll put it in the ground side." Sticks it in the neutral. Well, this was informative. 😉

[@sanctealphonse4510]

Right, and when it's done by some guy on KZbin you've never seen before and at the very beginning of the video he gets it wrong it doesn't make me very confident in the rest of the video LOL

[@jameshyde1501]

Indeed! I have the MM700 Great meter. Was wanting to get the Fluke meter but I did not want that second mortgage.

[@sylviacolburn1462]

What a GREAT Setting by Setting Primer!!! The First one I've ever seen that is so Clean & Straight-Forward. Thank you!

[@lifesaverd]

Great video, I use the Klein MM300, it’s the 1st multi-meter I ever purchased, works good. I also heve the klein touchless and the klein outlet tool, I use them all and they are simple for a basic dyi’er like myself. I purchased the klein pouch as well, and keep those all in there cause as you stated, I would lose them if I didn’t

[@mikekelly814]

I watch a lot of your videos and think they're great. I've never watched this because I felt I don't need basics. I had sent my brother (he had worked 2 summers as an Electrician's Helper) a DMM and he asked me such a basic question years later when I was visiting on this Christmas 2022. I was troubleshooting electrics on the trains, and he asked, "What are you doing when you use that setting with the tone?". He then admitted he only used the battery test function. This one has not only a DCV setting, but additionally one that puts a load on batteries so you see the actual usable voltage. So, I wanted a good basic video for him. I reviewed this during my lunch. Maybe I read too much or too little into the Title, but I think you spend way too much time on the details of this specific DMM and way too little on actual how to use the functions. Additionally, temperature (?), again and thinking basics (and my time reviewing and his to be watching) - who would have temperature on their 1st or even 2nd DMM?! That's far too specific. The fliex test? Capacitance, yes, but your talking about using it on HVAC? I'll certainly still watch your videos as related to what I'm doing, or want to do... one of the things is that sometimes you are too detailed, but so am I so, I like it. I won't be sending him the link to this, it's not enough of what, IMHumbleO, I think would be the best use of his time.

[@patrickjames1080]

Who doesn't have 12:31

[@foxwood67]

Very helpful. I just purchased the CL800 . Probably more meter than I need for home gamer use but after testing a stator and rectifier on a motorcycle with 2 el cheapo models and getting conflicting readings that were wildly different I thought I would get a decent model. Liked the clamp and AC/DC amps feature as well I picked up some good helpful tips from watching thanks. 👍

[@bigchew3149]

good advice for sure..i have a klein mm700 as well as a fluke but i always keep a L chepo around to..just in case

[@tpobrienjr]

Good demo and explanation. I keep the multimeter accessories in a ziploc bag so they won't run away.

[@xnavyro]

Loved this video! Forgot some of the basics, started in electronics in 1975, great refresher course, Thanks!!!

[@andrewbrindescu6666]

Good info. If you don't mind next time show how to troubleshoot the alternator if do charge by means if voltage regulator work or diode. Thanks

[@MrSvetlin09]

Good safety practice but with 10 Megaohms internal resistance of the avarage meter when in Voltage measuring mode ... it won't arc or elecricute you.

[@bdr4212]

I needed a meter to test automotive batteries mainly; since I had a Amazon gift card I bought the Klein MM600. It is more than I originally needed, but at least I have it for any issues I encounter at home. I like to far. Oh, one more thing. It cam in handy to check the test the temperature for some heating vents.

[@jamessotherden5909]

I bought my last meter in 2005. I need to upgrade to one of these new fangled meters. I like the features.

[@dwaineruthannarmentrout1811]

I so appreciate you creating this video clearly explaining how to use a meter properly and safely. I really have learned so much watching your videos.

[@10p6]

Nice. If you can demo (affordable ones) circuit tracers sometime that would be awesome too. I would love to know where each of my 5 outside lights go as I would have wired them all together, but nope, the builder of my house got creative, but not in a good way.

[@dougb8207]

I got a Centech cable tracer from Harbor Freight. I've never tried using it at an outside distance though.

[@chrismaxny4066]

Learned a lot from your video especially about testing an outlet!

[@thankswezilow6794]

thanks 😅 I was always connecting the leads to test the outlets on multiple even for 240v and tripping the breakers. Hot side last got it!👍

[@lawdog516]

Good basic multimeter function video, I wish you would have demonstrated discharging the capacitor before touching it, I’ve been jolted by CAPS early in my career, depending on the CAP, it can be a shockingly memorable experience LOL, thanks Scott

[@paulsto6516]

He was too busy making stuff up about how to plug the probes in the wall.

[@jivepatrol6833]

I just bought a Klein Tools MM700 Multimeter so this video is excellent! It's a great tester and your tips are appreciated! Thank you!

[@PaulCotterCanada]

Might have been a good idea to explain what a Tamper Resistant receptacle, how to recognize one (TR) is and how to test it. I keep a plug with a foot of cable with exposed ends. You need enough cable to pull the plug out, but not enough to dangle on the floor and possible 'enliven' a tool, yourself or whatever. An extension cord works as well.

[@patrickjames1080]

Agree - the TRs need some work arounds - I used a plug adapter

[@kkutube1972]

That explained why I received the spark last night. Thanks.

[@rollandjoeseph]

Thanks alot !iI now understand the functions the MM600 has to offer as i have the same unit which is perfect! Very hepful info , thx again for this video!

[@sspeedfreak22]

Amazing tutorial mate Just passed it on to my 13 yr old who’s messing around with everything these day !

[@Mo-P]

Every time I look up an electrical video, yours always pop up and are super helpful. Thanks so much for this!

[@etherealrose2139]

The order of probes do not matter in either DC or AC. If you're trying to determine polarity is about the only time it matters if you can't see the source of power. Just verify you're on the correct setting to not create a short which should blow an internal fuse In the meter. Think about it. How do you test 240v as they are both "hot" ;) same for 3 phase. Your opposite lead will not be hot as there's a resistor inside.

[@paulsto6516]

This guy obviously makes stuff up, then passes it off as fact.

[@MarcosGarcia-xg1rf]

@@paulsto6516 I thought about the op comment. Most things were solid in this video

[@paulsto6516]

@@MarcosGarcia-xg1rf I think I require a much higher percentage of solid.

[@kiranp551]

Thanks for the video. Little confused about color selection of leads. Red lead is for testing live wire and black for ground or neutral. However, wires coming into the receptacles or switches from the breaker: black or red wire is for hot.

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

Red and black convention is for DC voltage. AC likes to use black for the hot, just to confuse people 😉

[@dougb8207]

Good point. In my experience, I think more of meters as used for electronics, meaning black is common (ground) and red is hot. House wiring is white for common (neutral) and black for hot. Yeah, it's inconsistent.

[@goodun2974]

@@wingerrrrrrrrr My suspicion is that since in many cultures black is the color associated with death, using a black wire to identify the part of the wiring circuit most likely to kill you made cultural sense.

[@konradpetz7317]

Being a industrial electrician most testing for just presence of power or open/ closed switch is best done with a tester. A multi meter has very high internal resistance. So this could give you strange readings that will over complicate your results.

[@mrobvious5892]

Really now Konrad? please do tell how? So tired of you guys who always have to “COMPLICATE” basic electricity. If you can’t dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit!🥴. And give no follow up information/answers (keep them wondering) 🤦‍♂️nice! You’d make load matching seem like quantum physics

[@konradpetz7317]

@@mrobvious5892 good saying some times applies. A little knowledge is more dangerous then no knowledge at all

[@glennwhite1841]

Sir, can you enlighten my DYI brain? What kind of tester? Thanks!

[@goodun2974]

@@glennwhite1841 , Take care that your DIY (Do It Yourself) brain doesn't cause damage to your "DYI" (Do Yourself In💥😳) brain! [Sorry but your typographical error was just too good to let it go to waste!]

[@cameronkoch6145]

fluke 1503/fluke 1507 and fluke t5-1000 for work is what my company uses and that covers all my needs

[@steelcrusher]

awesome thanks, i'm halfway through the video and i have a better understanding on this meter and the ones i have.

[@bigal7561]

I put in another of your vids to do one of these and here it is. Thanks.

[@pistolschlapper]

good vid, gonna convince my current boss this MM600 is essential and when hes away ill take it home lol

[@ourv9603]

I've owned many MM over years for home & work. What aggravates me the most is when using one I forget to turn it off & the battery dies. Some better ones will put itself to sleep. Usually, the sales info NOR the owners manual mention this feature, so you have to buy & try to see if it has this feature. Thats a real pain. ALSO, I like the meters which are so smart that there is only 1 volt or amp range. The meter will figger out whether its reading AC or DC. Smart. !

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

I have a meter with only auto ranging, which is a poor design that didn't allow the range to be locked. What happens when you measure something right at the threshold where the range changes is that it completely blanks out as it switches ranges which makes it very annoying. The company realized the error of their ways and in their subsequent model have a fixed range button option now.

[@goodun2974]

Older Fluke meters turn the display off and go into sleep mode after 15 minutes or so, *BUT* the meter circuit is still drawing current and will kill the battery in a couple of days. Make sure its actually turned to "off" when you put the meter away or you go home for the weekend!

[@evetsdn]

Great tutorial ! I have been looking to buy the 600v auto ranging multimeter that you used in your tutorial and your explanations were great. And thanks for not putting distracting music in the background. I am a tutorial junky and must watch 10 a week and the ones that have loud distracting music in the background are awful. Thx

[@zadneb543]

I always check the probe and meter first by connecting the probes together and checking for very low to zero resistance or switching over to diode mode and listening for a ringing sound.

[@JMjayesim]

Klein CL350 for measuring amperage on loads just convenient not to disconnect terminals and keep things energized for testing amps. I could use my MM400 with the leads, but sometimes when dealing with loads that have a motor, it's a little risky knowing that the 10 amp safety mechanism inside meter might not be enough. I feel a bit comfortable with a clamp meter for that option.

[@armyfazer1410]

I just bought this meter. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@mud27ratz1]

This is more of a Klein Tool tutorial than an actual 'How To' video

[@scallywag1716]

Recommend all homes keep spare capacitors for your HVAC systems; especially, if you live in an area with frequent power interruptions. They are cheap and very easy to replace. I’ve already had to replace two on a 3 year old home.

[@JetFire9]

The best thing to do is replace them every year. A bad capacitor could damage the fan motor and/or the compressor motor. Why wait for it to fail if it's cheap and easy? Plus the replacements sold online don't seem to last as long as the originals, so better to just make it a maintenance item.

[@eurodecibel]

Amprobe Am-510 has been a good multimeter for the projects I work on.

[@dougmorissette459]

Great information video! You have explained the multimeter in a very easy to understand way. Thanks.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help!

[@MrCarl312]

To receive a lethal shock, you have to be toucing both a ground and a hot wire at the same time. Touching only one wire is not lethal. Voltage has to high enough, one volt, you may not even feel.

[@gamersens2363]

Amperage is what will kill. You can withstand high voltage since voltage is an electrical push. The amperage is the movement of the ions or electrons which is what is lethal. Voltage does play a factor but you can withstand a high voltage with low amperage and be fine.

[@MrCarl312]

@@gamersens2363 With higher voltage you get more amperage through your body. The resistance of your body is pretty constant, it varies mainly if you are wet. Granted if you are playing with a tesla coil, you can get very high voltage that is near zero current.