Exercises EVERY Climber Should Be Doing | ft. Ollie Torr

Get 10% Off Your First Mad Rock order, Use Code 'NUGGET' at 👉 madrock.com
Listen to the full episode 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
Or you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names in climbing 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/all-epi...
About The Guest:
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training.
We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more! You can learn more about Ollie at latticetraining.com
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
Support The Podcast By Joining Our Patreon
•Watch Uncut Videos For Every Episode
•Exclusive Bonus Episodes With Guests
•Ability To Ask Future Guests Questions
•Sneak Peek At Upcoming Guests
•Discounts on Merch
•Ad-Free Episodes
Check It Out 👉 / thenuggetclimbing

[@thenuggetclimbing]

Get 10% Off Your First Mad Rock order, Use Code 'NUGGET' at 👉 madrock.com

[@jamescushway6374]

* Looks down *, "Yea that's probably 5 inches or less, I'll measure it later" 😂

[@paulgaras2606]

A great side quest for any climber is the ability to overhead press their bodyweight. It tends to not be a high interference lift but the returns in investment are really high.

[@ttgeralt8189]

That's interesting. Two question if I may: 1. What are the benefits? 2. How far am I from this goal in your opinion if I can do 3 sets of 7 reps with 50% of my bodyweight? I never tested my one rep max

[@Chillehhhh]

Do a ton of Lu raises and really try to control the weight on the way down

[@thenayancat8802]

Damn, I've got 15cm pretty much on the button. I think this is the first strength or flexibility benchmark for climbing I've ever hit, and I don't even train it!

[@ayuminor]

Same, now if I could frog my legs more than 45°, that would be swell :D

[@thenayancat8802]

@@ayuminor Yep! When I show people my frog or pancake stretch, they tend to say something like "Oh your jeans must be restricting you". I wish :D

[@derekcraig3617]

with the knee to wall test do you have to keep your heel on the ground the whole time?

[@deci]

yes. heel needs to touch the ground. don't get too caught up on the actual measurement from the wall relative to other people since foot length vs shin length affects this. the main thing is just to try to decrease the ankle angle and just improve your own foot distance from the wall.

[@MrWill830]

@@deci appreciate the answer mate, I was doing it with heel lifted and was like "wth this is easy" lol

[@Morpheah]

@@MrWill830 Try "tibialis raises" along with both standing (straight knees) and seated (flexed knees) calf raises/stretch

[@jlc9671]

Homelander telling me what to do

[@elfriederich]

Strong shoulders beget strong fingers

[@OrionDuCros]

Whats so surprising about Ollie is that he understand the anatomy so well, but has the absolute worst exercise selection.

[@wiesono2221]

How so? It seems to me that he is recommending stuff people are missing. Like everybody is doing pull ups, there is no value on saying it again and again

[@OrionDuCros]

@wiesono2221 he's right that those muscles need training but, his exercise selection for those muscles is far from optimal. Climbers often do not understand basic training science when it comes to strength vs hypertrophy vs endurance.

[@PunyDragon2]

@@OrionDuCros what alternatives would you suggest

[@elfriederich]

​@@OrionDuCros also interested in better exercises - feel free to share