Explaining the benefits of using epoxy before body filler

[@jessehickman668]

I never thought to use a scale for bonding but it’s genius. Same same for jb weld

[@eeblatter]

Also helps to use primer as guide to stop sanding when it shows through. A lot of people keep sanding when bare metal high spots appear and just helps to defeat the purpose. Nice Caddy, BTW.

[@BrianMasek]

Great video, thx! So I have a car with some very minor surface rust. Is the correct procedure to sand it off, do the epoxy filler then bondo,primer,paint,clear coat?

[@diamonddetails9445]

Dear sir, in behalf of all of us, rookies new to the game. Thank you so much for explaining things so simply, we idiots understand, finally! 💯👀😎

[@Supanova70]

At the point now of figuring what to do with my sanding break through areas on my roof. I am ready for tamco 5310 dtm high build but maybe spot epoxy 1st? they do not want etch used in there stacking and neither do i.. Thoughts? I know you played around with there 5300 series yes i should of started this all with 2050 but next job i will. Or at least try not to break through as much. Thanks in advanced for all your blocking tools. I would be screwed without them. Happy New Year...

[@1873Winchester]

Problem I've had using epoxy before filler is I almost always sand through it to bare metal in a few spots after I've applied the filler. I usually do another light coat of epoxy primer before moving on then. I dunno if that's the right way to do it. I've also used epoxy filler on bare metal instead of primer. But I don't think they are equivalent at all, but better than polyester based filler I think?

[@cloakedgt]

yes you have to be very careful not to go through, but the main thing is make sure the high spots are taken care of first using a guide coat to expose them, so black paint, just rattle can it, be aware of the contours and edges, what i suggest is 3M makes these flexible rubber type sand papers you can get at the contours and edges with ease and wont have to worry as much about going to bare metal, when sanding the bondo while the epoxy is down first use a 180 or 220 grit, it will take more time, but its worth it to ensure it gets done properly remmeber to sand a little bit and check with your hands often, bodywork is an art, its like sculptures, take too much off and the whole piece of marble needs to be replaced

[@Supanova70]

Can you apply kitty hair at qtr panel welds for strength,then Epoxy and then start poly filler and blocking over Epoxy?

[@russellludwig8457]

Are you applying the body filler before or after the epoxy primer cures? Does it make a difference either way?

[@AA_Ron155]

Has to be within the recoat window of the epoxy without sanding. Once the epoxy is fully cured the filler wont have good adhesion.

[@russellludwig8457]

@AA_Ron155 But can you sand the cured primer with 180 grit, before applying filler? I'm a hobbyists and sometimes have long periods of time between activities.

[@tonymontana6872]

@@AA_Ron155according to body guys on the hotrod forums they let the epoxy fully cure, sand, then apply filler

[@dongreene2546]

I've done many hign end paints, never weigh, but what's works best for your show.

[@ryandeboer9584]

A few years back there was a rash of body filler related issues, 3m sent out a rep/ one of their main chemist, to do rounds at body shops checking for proper applications. I asked him about the holy grail of ratios & -“ 10% Hardner to product “ That has been working great , this is So. Calif.

[@otallono]

makes no sense, you have a totally different work time depending on humidity, ambient and panel temperature and the product you're using

[@diamonddetails9445]

I don't mind watching your videos more than once! They're REQUIRED VIEWING, as far as I'm concerned 👀 TYVM 💯

[@aznbraddah87]

Your scale is in parts btw. You can change it to grams in settings.

[@Enjoytheinbetween]

How do you sand? Once you start blocking the filler and hit the epoxy it will gum up, it’s not meant to be sanded?

[@correyy]

Once you break through the outer skin of epoxy , it sands well

[@boyanbyankow5192]

hi, how can you apply boddyfiler on top of 80 grid without shrinking back. I usualy use Evercoat not 3M but in the TDS they say sand with 80 folowedbe180 to remove deep scraches around repaired area. I'm just asking to learn from peaople with expirience in restourations. Keep doing your amazing work. Wish you everything best

[@robertcampbell5485]

Block the body filler with 80 till you get it really close then do a skim coat of polyester putty and block that with 120 and your ready to prime.

[@warrenlewis3977]

Boy you better learn how to spell before you try bodywork lol.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Good video bud

[@steelyerface21]

but isnt 2050 not an epoxy primer>? did you use an epoxy primer before the 2050, i thought the 2050 is a standard high build primer?

[@SealofPerfection]

It might be a hybrid, but it's not a true epoxy. True epoxy seals the metal, 2050 does not. The TDS states you can apply a PPG sealer over it if you like. An epoxy wouldn't need a sealer. And nowhere in their paperwork does PPG claim it's epoxy. So I'm very skeptical that it is.

[@LynchAutoHouse]

@@SealofPerfectionCorrect. I spoke with a rep at PPG. It’s an epoxy/polyester blend. I applied it over a steel plate and left it out in the elements for a year. Within 6 months rust started creeping through. This does not happen with a purebred epoxy.

[@SealofPerfection]

@@LynchAutoHouse Yeah, the TDS even says "If preferred, VP2050 may be directly topcoated or sealed with a compatible PPG sealer." So it's not a sealer, otherwise why would the say you could seal it? There'd be no need if the 2050 itself was an actual sealer. And nowhere in the TDS is the word "epoxy".

[@mansourjreige677]

yes I learnt the hard way I put body filler l on bare metal on a resto 😪 took 8 years to bubble but even at TAFE they taught us to put on bare metal I said no problem

[@charliesgarageusa4986]

Never seen anyone weight boby filler to mix i have been doing wrong for 30 years good luck with that must be high end cars 🤣👍

[@michaeljohnson2922]

I thought epoxy sealers can’t be sanded? That’s what makes all this stuff so confusing, if you put filler over epoxy primer/sealer and fillers get sanded then that means the surrounding epoxy gets sanded too. I’m so confused by this.

[@BushyB9883]

Sure you can. Wear a mask. You can (and must) sand it if you’re coating it with anything outside of the recoat window in the data sheet.

[@otallono]

@@BushyB9883 It's well known you don't sand epoxy primers unless it's high build variant

[@BushyB9883]

@@otallono It’s well known you must sand epoxy primers for adhesion if re-coating or top coating outside of the top coat time. Otherwise, enjoy your paint until the first wash because that’s about how long it will last before delaminating.

[@hserieshooligan1997]

​@@BushyB9883I sprayed epoxy primer yesterday can I bondo straight over it or should I scuff it

[@BushyB9883]

@@hserieshooligan1997 Some epoxies are different so I would recommend you check the data sheet. For most epoxies including PPG 408- Epotec I would leave it for a couple of days to make sure it’s fully cured and not going to sink or shrink, then filler on top. Putting filler straight onto fresh epoxy might cause adhesion issues with two dissimilar materials curing at different rates.

[@class5bodyworks]

Strange that water in body filler is bad but you can spray a water based primer directly over bare metal. Do you spot prime cut throughs with the VP2050 before applying another coat of filler? No one seems to want to answer this question. Thanks

[@jakeymon22]

if you break through to bare metal, yes. the key is to not cut through to bare metal at this point. block add filler to lows and when you have everything to one level step to your final grit this when if you cut through to bare its ok because you will be applying another application of primer preferably a high build epoxy.

[@class5bodyworks]

@@jakeymon22 Thanks for the response. I know there is so much emphasis on not putting filler over metal so it just seems very time consuming when you do cut through to have to spot prime, let cure and fill again. I use VP2050 and it's a relatively slow drying primer. I've also seen the shrink test here about allowing three days to dry. To do filler on this scale and not cut through youd have to start with extremely flat panels or possibly get all this filler straight in one coat. Seems like a pretty tall order. Not saying it can't be done, just wondering how many cut throughs are directly filled or get a second round of primer and maybe that's why no one wants to answer the question. Maybe "cheating" a little?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

@@class5bodyworks all bare metal break throughs if you get them get sealed again using vp2050. Because it’s also a high build & epoxy that’s the awesome thing you are only using one product that does it all.

[@class5bodyworks]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks for the info. Had to double check what channel I was on for a minute. Didn't expect to find you here.🤣

[@jerryhuff86]

Excellent

[@bobadingo]

WOW. Is there something wrong with NOT using body filler?.. .

[@otallono]

you can't shape anything without it

[@bernardmauge8613]

good point. I agree. However your body work skills are more related to plastering.

[@SamFBM]

too professional.

[@anthonymaniz1933]

Just eye ball everything

[@billmiller3425]

It is NOT "critical".

[@bassdaze]

oh wow... as soon as i saw the weighing of bondo you lost me completely and i clicked off

[@Lucky-ou4vz]

Opinions are like Rectums especially to somebody that's been doing it for 50 years and never used epoxy first with body filler over it still have cars that I did when I was a kid 47 years ago in Sherwin-Williams acrylic lacquer and there was No KZbin with a lot of ' Know it All's "