Exploring the wiring loom of a Chinese quad / scooter.

While buying some items from the listings of what was obviously a Chinese seller's UK warehouse, I came across this listing for a complete wiring loom/harness for a quad ATV (All Terrain Vehicle). It seems that these are a common item on eBay at what appears to be a ridiculously low price.
I guess that maybe if you have an issue you can fire this fully loaded parts cannon at it to resolve most issues.
I bought a loom purely to explore, and had lots of fun reverse engineering the way the components were connected and how they operate. It contains:-
The stator of a magneto with three windings. Low voltage, high voltage and sensor.
A CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition) system.
An ignition coil.
A spark plug.
A key switch.
A rectifier/regulator.
Battery terminals.
Starter relay.
handlebar control unit.
A cable loom with matching connectors and some spare.
No instructions whatsoever.
Here are my findings. Feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of KZbin's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

[@Casey_Schmidt]

Since Clive lives on the Isle of Man, it would only be appropriate for him to buy a crotch rocket and drive recklessly about the island.

[@kimvibk9242]

Absolutely! He should form a one-man biker gang called The Isle of Man Tartan Terror. EDIT: Thanks for all the comments. I didn't think too much about the tartan - I just wanted to make a pun about the Isle of Man TT motor race.

[@bigjd2k]

@@kimvibk9242 Wearing a pink leather jacket!

[@DADeathinacan]

@@kimvibk9242 Ah, but what tartan? My mind is now going "ooh, he should get a great kilt made from all of the tartan patterns!", which Im afraid of, inpart because of how that would interact with the crotch rocket...

[@rolfs2165]

@@DADeathinacan Hot pink tartan, obviously.

[@DADeathinacan]

@@rolfs2165 not the official pride tartan?

[@unclejohn5012]

This is why I love Clive random tear downs of random bits.

[@ParedCheese]

The trouble I've had with "waterproof" switches on bikes is that once the water gets in, it never dries out. 😁 I'd rather have an "open" one with the contacts slathered in vaseline, for most purposes.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Sadly, that also applies to most electrical equipment.

[@horrovac]

The automotive connectors - the ones with rounded sides and wiper seals with multiple rings on them, and a catch on the outside - are quite reliably waterproof though. Never had an issue with those, admittedly in a car, but that gets splashed more than one expects. I don't know what they're called, and I can't be arsed to look it up right now... ...."Delphi connectors" apparently, damn you!

[@Ender06]

@@horrovac There are many different connector companies that offer water proof connectors. Delphi being one of them. I've noticed most connectors on bikes are not waterproof, interestingly the ones that are waterproof seem to be the most protected from water already... (under the gas tank, etc)

[@brianleeper5737]

@@horrovac In the USA they're commonly known as "Weatherpack" connectors. One of the first designs of these connectors on the market and still available today. I suppose the name is short for "Weather proof Packard", Packard Electric (which was a division of GM; these connectors were stamped PED, for Packard Electric Division) being the predecessor to Delphi. Delphi is now known as Aptiv. Ford refers to these as "submersible connectors".

[@mattinman8285]

@@Ender06 We've got Deutsch connectors here in Australia. Same concept, very good water resistance

[@ianhendra6946]

Cheers man your helpful diagram saved me!!it's 23rd Dec and my son's new 50cc 4 stroke has been treated to a new wiring loom I was stuck but just got dug out of a hole I dig for myself my son is going to be happy on Christmas thanks to this helpful guide cheers brilliant...

[@twocvbloke]

The size of them quads/ATVs are usually kid-sized, hence why everything is so close together, neat kit though, could be useful for building up custom small-engined power toys... :D

[@kaitlyn__L]

That explains why the ones I rode in summer activities "camp" (no overnight things) were so perfectly sized! God damn I loved zooming around an empty farm field in one of those things. As a 7 year old, that being my first firsthand experience with any motor vehicle, oh it gave me a real taste for em.

[@twocvbloke]

@@kaitlyn__L I've no experience of riding them myself, I've just seen a number of them here on youtube being fixed up or torn apart for their engines to use in other projects... :)

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

But the same parts are also used in 50cc scooters, and there are lots of those out on the streets, both either 2-stroke or 4-stroke.

[@twocvbloke]

@@Seegalgalguntijak That's true, but the wiring is usually longer for those to reach, hence why these kits are for the small quads/ATVs, smaller frames, shorter wires... :)

[@kaitlyn__L]

@@twocvbloke understandable! It got me wanting a Honda scooter once I was old enough to get one of those licenses. Though I never did manage to successfully save up for one before learning to drive. I've not ridden an ATV as an adult at all. But I still have fond memories of that.

[@SuperBoobaloo]

This has to be your single most niche teardown.

[@MrMilarepa108]

Oh you weren't here for the chinese electric anal cavity stimulator shocker butt plug then? Good ol' times...

[@anononomous]

Eh, I've seen nicher.

[@THEGEEK2001]

I love off roaders & Clive...

[@WolfmanDude]

I would say its one of the most common! All the chinese 50cc scooters have exactly the same setup, and these things are everywere here in europe. I fixed a dozen of those things, just for friends and neighbors.

[@mattmatt1669]

@@MrMilarepa108 ah yes the good days

[@TonyLing]

Start inhibit is often wired to a switch on the side stand.

[@cossasomi]

Some scooters are also supposed to have a tilt switch that kills the engine if you fall. Fortunately I've never had the pleasure of testing it out. Yet.

[@HA05GER]

Some of the Chinese stuff have both. The Peugeot 50cc that uses very similar loom (Chinese gy6 engine ) has the kill on the bar and the stand .

[@manolisgledsodakis873]

Quad bikes have a side stand? On a lawnmower it would be wired to the brake and/or the seat weight=sensing microswitch. Quad might be the same.

[@TonyLing]

@@manolisgledsodakis873 Re-read the video title

[@murfphone914]

Automatic transmission bikes/quads tend to have a Micro switch on a brake lever, i.e. pull the brake in and it allows the engine to run ( or starter motor to spin). It could be that perhaps? ....Oops, just noticed someone else has said something similar..

[@cody181818]

I work on Chinese bikes so much. This is soo needed and amazing. Thank you!!!

[@johnnodge4327]

The 2 spare wires at the stator are probably for a neutral light switch. It's very common to kill the engine ignition, simply by shorting out the CDI supply coil. Lots of small engines use this system, from cheap quads, bikes and even petrol garden power equipment.

[@dash8brj]

Even petrol (gas for the yanks :P) powered RC car use a direct short across the stator coil to shut off the motor. To shut off a nitro, all nitro owners had "that" screwdriver, whose handle was firmly pressed against the tailpipe, which caused the engine to bog down and stop! The other option was to squeeze the fuel line tightly, but the tailpipe method was quicker, especially when dealing with a model whos throttle servo had jammed at wide open.

[@petersage5157]

It is a deceptively elegant solution. Low current, high voltage, and what you're shunting is galvanically isolated from the 12V system. So long as there's anything resembling a current path from the switch back to the engine, the kill switch will do its job without bothering anything else. I had a motorized bike conversion kit with the kill switch on the handlebars, and the switch always found a path through the headset bearings and suspension to kill the ignition.

[@sploofy4878]

how do I use those wires to turn off my quad?

[@mondude9754]

@@sploofy4878 connect the black and white wire (all the same wire) coming off the cdi box plug to the frame

[@etiennevallieres]

I got a 50cc chinese quad and this are my findings for the connectors you were unsure about; - Dash ? labelled connector is for brake light, - the 2 wires at stator are for neutral on 3 speed models (imo) - the safety switch with the solid connector is for the "fall off bike" feature, that will shut down the quad in case of a fall - the other safety is connected to the brake switch on automatic model to ensure the bike doesnt start to rollout on it's own on chocke start being an automatic Keep it up, great video!

[@monkehbitch]

Ah, the Chinese scooter loom. I remember playing/repairing them quite a bit. At that cost, it's just an excellent bundle of bits to bodge bits.

[@hollybrereton3140]

Only you Clive, only you could enjoy working out a loom, the rest of us mere mortals run away sucking our thumbs looking for mummy.

[@m101ist]

Well you can always buy a dummy. 😳

[@Kineth1]

Starter safety switch: I have owned 2 scooters, one decent Japanese ('85 Honda 50cc), and one cheap Chinese (201? ??? 250cc). Both have a sort of interlock relay that is wired to the brake lights. You have to engage the brake to use the electric starter. Both use a belt-type CVT that outputs to a centrifugal clutch which transmits power to the final reduction, and the rear wheel. Adding in a manual clutch is something that is only done for vehicles that have a manual transmission, which is more expense than you will get out of a Chinese import. Keyswitch and killswitch: Shunting the ignition primary coil to ground has been a standard "safe" engine stop procedure for years, decades even. I have a '73 Yamaha DT250 that the keyswitch shunts the ignition primary to ground in the "off/stop" position. The extra killswitch (to be mounted on the handlebars) is a more recent highway-safety standards implementation to stop a downed bike because the manufacturers put the key just wherever they like, and they may get snapped off in a collision. That flattened killswitch is much more likely to fail safe.

[@Peter_S_]

AMAZING value for that price! I'm looking forward to the depotting attempts.

[@MrFlint51]

Triple electrode spark plugs have been around for many years. My dad was an engine fitter in the RAF, and he told me that many WW2 aircraft had them. I used them in my Mini with a high voltage Lucas Sport Coil. It gave more complete combustion of the air-fuel mix.

[@carlubambi5541]

Fantastic to see this .I was just getting into physio rehab 2 years ago from COVID .Amazing what I missed

[@user-ft8xu2bs6k]

I just wanted to say we're you you at when I needed a video explaining everything on the harness what it does we're each individual connection goes to saves me big nothing like the other videos I give this a 10 star thank you very much

[@scottkrieger2062]

Other kill switch wire (plug) is for a remote safety switch or tether as the harness is for a youth quad. The 2 spare wires by the stator are the neutral and reverse indicators if equipped. The reason the handle bar switch wires don't match the loom color code is because they're are a dozen suppliers making them and they're generally interchangeable. I rebuild these little quads as a hobby. It's nice that the looms are cheap because they often fail but would likely be less prone to fail if they weren't so cheap. Good video and explains the electrical system well👍

[@wicks7581]

Nice work on the C.D.I. explanation. Worth a google if your bored, the concept is a lot older than most people think.

[@robames1293]

great as usual. - "normal" Kettering ignition (points and coil) uses the points OPENING to generate back EMF of coil primary to induce current in the very high no of windings in the secondary which goes via distributor to the spark plug.

[@Azlehria]

Remarkably similar to the harness I built for my bike, down to the same connector styles. It's held up for a number of years and many miles.

[@HockingVideos]

The two safety wires with spade terminals are for the hand brake, you have to hold the brake on to start.

[@skywing959]

Interesting, particularly how the kill switch works. I've encountered petrol hedge trimmers and leaf blowers where a loose connection would prevent the engine from being turned off. Which struck me as odd, because normally you'd expect a loose connection to prevent it from running at all. Now it makes sense, the loose connection was preventing it being able to short out the ignition.

[@upsidedown4155]

Had the joy of playing with a few Chinese quads and peds, Nice to see your take on these looms, a long kill switch wire would go to the back of the quad where you commonly have a pull switch on a string like with jetski's in case you get thrown off, the lock is a joke you can remove the key barrel as the security tab is not protected, And it seems about normal size for a small quad as things tend to be bolted in random places Nice video buddy thank you 🤘👍

[@Swirlybum]

the joys of the chinese wiring looms......so beautifully made ...... keeps us auto sparkies in business though

[@scratchdog2216]

I got a beat 150cc Chinese GY6 scooter back in August. Thing's fun to goof around on. Goes well enough.

[@jellydarling1008]

It’s so relaxing to watch you

[@bigcheese781]

The green and black wires hanging loose about the stator is likely for neutral indication and possibly oilpressure or temperature warning/fan.

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

I know many parts of this, or similar ones that are slightly different, from my own scooter (which hasn't run in 2 years now). The voltage regulator is especially tricky, because they all look the same and most of them have compatible plug connectors, but there are several different models, so basically when yours goes bad, you'll have to find the right one by trial and error (which can cost you quite a few light bulbs). I also once repaired my handlebar switch assembly with parts from another handlebar switch assembly that I ordered on ebay, but wasn't quite the right one, so I had to make 1 good one out of one broken one and one that didn't fit right - again something with the connectors. That's where these things are not standardized, and that makes them quite nasty to work on...you would basically have to get either a whole wiring loom like you did, or figure out every connection on your existing vehicle on your own.

[@tommyhanlon8012]

Isn't it Grand to see Mr.Clive back in His element , Pulling things apart trying to figure out how they work with the Exuberance & Excitement of a Kid unwrapping a Christmas present, then bursting to show it to others ! Good to see You're back C.M. That's a lot of loom for 20 quid. Can You dissect a Numatic Henry speed controller ''Hi-Lo'' board please Mr.C. ?

[@Tsnafu]

The spur off the lighting circuit is probably the speedo backlight, the safety spur may well be to stop the motor being started in gear

[@Brian-jz1pi]

I like your simple explanation of things if you need to know more then that's the time to dig deeper

[@gartht6536]

You may find the 2 wires in the stator harness and the kill connector are linked to the side stand switch, which cuts the engine if the stand is down and engine running in gear (not neutral)

[@michaels3288]

one of the safety circuits is for the brake switch which needs to be depressed to start (can also be used for clutch switch as you said), and the other is for a remote-controlled start/kill switch for parents to shut off engine if they need to.

[@zeez9053]

Excellent choice of subject

[@leighblyth1097]

Those kill switch connections are likely a parent cut-off switch with ribbon type setup mounted to the rear of the quad so a parent can walk behind and cut the engine if required, these China quads also have an optional remote start stop alarm system fitted which accounts for the second spare kill connection 👍🏻

[@THEGEEK2001]

Cheets mate these harness are used on pit bikes / quads all.the see appreciate you going through it real handy

[@bobuilt10]

The kill switch on the Fantic I had in my yoof had a chromed metal kill switch. It was always touch and go whether you or the handle bars acted as the earth when it was raining. You learned very quickly to stall the bike in the wet. 1970's Italian safety standards, an oxymoron if ever there was one.

[@gordonlawrence1448]

In my experience the regulators are a glorified zenner. Also capacitive discharge spark circuits are used to accurately control the energy of the spark. IE to reduce the energy to the minimum needed to reliably ignite which then extends the life of the spark plug. In boiler controls the circuits used to deliver a minimum of 6mJ but in reality were more like 7.5mJ to take into account component tolerances. Or that's the way I used to design them anyway.

[@chrisleech1565]

Now that is quite a good value. I have seen prices exceeding $30 for the CDI alone for a Baha.

[@m101ist]

😳

[@jakerichardson7973]

The extra kill switch plug goes to a pull type kill switch mounted in the rear to tether the atv to a larger one to keep the kiddo from taking off. The safety circuit goes to the two brake switches, one foot and one on the handlebar. Either brake will allow it to start, they have centrifugal clutches so there is no clutch lever. Also most of these small engines have 2 magnets in the flywheel and generate an AC voltage that feeds the regulator.

[@mattpeters6006]

The 2 connectors that you said was a safety circuit are actually the neutral switch and neutral light and the 2 wires that aren't terminated that went to the coil is for an optional reverse light mainly for ATVs hope this helps

[@ouch1011]

The first bike I ever had was a super cheap Chinese 49cc moped/scooter called a Taotao. It was $800 new, I bought it for $300. The engine was basically a Chinese clone of a Honda GY50, which was nice because it allowed me to buy better quality parts designed for that engine (things like carburetor, clutch parts, etc). I only got it to see if I was interested in riding on 2 wheels (I was). The wiring loom on it looked basically exactly like this, although I'd imagine the wiring between the handle bar connectors and everything else was longer. Nothing was water proof, but I still rode it in the rain regularly. Rode it for a year, sold it for $400 when I bought a real bike.

[@someguy2741]

The other "kill switch" plug is probably for a kickstand down switch... on other usage cases you could use it for a low oil sender.

[@aterack833]

One with the two tabs goes to a micro switch on the brakes, the white plastic one goes to the clutch lever, there may also be a switch for neutral and one for the kickstand

[@christastic100]

I remember fitting a Sparkrite retro fit electronic ignition to my brothers petrol Land Rover back in the day . It made the points last forever as they used to weld themselves together. Very interesting and fabulously random Clive 😁

[@bigclivedotcom]

In made quite a few videos with the components from this loom, including depotting the CDI ignition controller.

[@christastic100]

@@bigclivedotcom I will take a look. Thank you for your reply and thank you for all the interesting stuff you do on the tube .

[@DrGreenGiant]

It's disgusting and crude...I love it

[@R.Daneel]

Pretty sure Clive uses the "He/Him" pronouns... or are you refering to the wiring loom?

[@retro80s22]

Great upload Clive that's some buy for under 20 quid

[@ScottsSynthStuff]

Seriously, how can you live on the Isle of Man and NOT ride a bike!?! :) :)

[@CircuitBreaker256]

On my chinese scooter you need to have the side stand up and the break on in order to start it, so that is what some of those extra connectors are for. You are right about nothing being waterproof. The horn on mine packed up when it was about 6 months old. I investigated and it was simply a non-waterproof component with exposed wiring tucked behind the plastic faring. Basically if you ride in the rain you need to make sure you park it somewhere dry and windy afterwards. I think these bikes are designed for occasional use in nice weather. But as the entire scooter cost £1K brand new, on the road price, they obviously need to cut a few corners.

[@darkfur18]

Very nice. I should look for something similar for my homemade electric bike. Also you should get an electric bike conversion kit if you haven't yet. those are fun to both build and ride, and on the isle of Man they would probably be pretty useful

[@peterzingler6221]

Man what an operation

[@awrosenoff]

I used this kit for parts, extra wire with various connectors and like Clive to understand how the whole thing works. I can now fix most used scooters if it is a wiring issue.

[@No-timeforimbeciles]

Just knew you were going to find one green going in & 4 or 5 split from it within the trunking 😂

[@mikm.6375]

Thats super cheap / reasonable & that harness can be used for different applications!

[@brianpeters4486]

In a points ignition power is applied to the cool via a resistor then the points open the circuit and induces the spark. Opposite of CDI but necessary. Some larger ignitions will generate 450 volts to the CDI and if your kill switch is wet and the ground is suspect you can get lit up. Really common on boats with aluminum hulls and 2 stroke motors. That became a regular maintenance check after the first time it happened to me.

[@evanparker]

@bigCLIVEdotcom the rectifier is just a few diodes, to rectify the AC to DC current for the battery. it's not complicated in there. it just dumps the bottom half of the sine waves to ground, and or to heat radiator, that generated by each of the coils.

[@SidecarBob]

The connectors are open so water can drain instead of being trapped inside when they are not quite waterproof (no connector that can be undone is ever truly waterproof). I live in southern Ontario and a sidecar outfit ('80s Honda with similar connectors) is my main means of transport in the winter on salted roads. I've had the current one since 2006 and non-sealed connectors have never caused a problem. Note that these connectors can have corrosion problems over time as oxidation develops between the contact points and causes resistance which develops power (ohm's law & voltage divider) & thus heat but if you unplug & re-plug them every few years to push the oxidation out of the way they can be reliable for a long time.

[@kevinsellsit5584]

I spent some time selling Chinese scooters a few years back ... I'll share some highlights. When the Operators Manual says "Turn your winker on before swerving" it doesn't mean that literally, and that would be illegal here in the states. On electric Scooter wiring harness the connector marked Derailleur is for the hall sensor throttle. The Chinese term "Spare Parts" means "a random collection of parts that were replaced on new scooters until it worked correctly".

[@AndrexT]

Regarding the 'safety switch', a modern thing is to have a switch on the side stands on bikes, or with an ATV, you have to pull the clutch in, or have the front brake on. When I biked in the 60s, 70s and 80s, I used to fill the connectors with Vaseline (waterproof and conductive). CDI ignition was a game changer to points and coils. Good explanation to it. Timing is normally done on the pick-up.

[@glenslick2774]

My motorcycle has a safety switch on the side stand. That switch doesn't disable the starter, but kills the engine if you shift out of neutral with the side stand down. I was out for ride once a few hours from home when the side stand switch broke during a rest stop. Fortunately I was able to use the toolkit stored in the motorcycle to remove the safety switch from the side stand and rotate it into the up position. I left it hanging loose that way until I could order a replacement.

[@monkehbitch]

Cdi is normally located at the front supposedly "weatherproof" the ignition coil is also at the front because of the gy6 engines plug, is at the middle. Battery normally sits in the middle.

[@cronauer1985]

The blocks are pretty much standard fitment to most Japanese bikes. The only really problem weve encountered with the harnesses was from the blocks in to the regulator rectifier. Yamaha and Honda have problems with the wires coroding but to be honest that was 3 phase.

[@afxfpv]

I think your extra safety connection is for the brake handle. Most things that use these will have a slip clutch or CVT, there wouldn't be a neutral position or a manual clutch. This configuration usually requires the rear brake to be applied when starting.

[@RambozoClown]

The stator connections are often an issue and the best thing is to solder them together. The rectifier/regulator is usually just a shunt type that dumps any excess voltage to ground. The lack of waterproofing is ok because it should have included a warning label to not ride underwater, or in the UK. The safety is typically a neutral switch and the clutch. One has to be engaged to start. The safety kill might be for a tether, some small ATVs for kids have a tether you can pull to kill the engine. You can also clip it to the kid so if they fall off, the unit shuts down.

[@martinda7446]

The 'kill' switch has traditionally shorted the ht on small engines in this manner since year one. Edit it is a low energy (in comparison) solution.

[@MicraHakkinen]

The 'fun' thing about this wiring loom (and in fact most wiring looms for mopeds, quads, etc) is that you can push or kick start the engine after simply disconnecting the ignition switch, because doing so removes the short circuit between the ignition wire and ground.

[@Marineio]

The scary thing is twisting two wires and breaking the steering lock works to steal most 125's! (and older bikes)!

[@andybobandy641]

I believe one of those extra kill switches might be for neutral safety where it has to be in neutral, or the clutch in, and the other one might be for the kickstand which has to be up to start the bike.

[@Hobothemason]

Thank you i got it running i was using a black wire as a ground moved it to red and power!!

[@B2Hives]

The Starting safety connector, one is probably a transmission Neutral indicator, or lock out for starting unless it is in Neutral.

[@sedsberg77]

Some of these small, single phase moped/quad regulators have two outputs. One 14V (red) for battery charging and things you want even when the motor stops, like brake lights and indicators. And one AC output for lights that will only work when motor runs. Bigger bikes often have three phases from the stator. My dads '60s bike have single phase and uses the light bulb as a "regulator", pulling down the voltage.

[@jeffreystroman2811]

1970'onan gensets used the battery as a sort of regulator, if the battery was disconnected while the gen was running bad things could happen to the regulation system

[@fredymredy]

You should open one of the old iskra 12V 80W regulators that are commonly used on tomos mopeds. No idea how they work but it will be amazing to watch it.

[@raygale4198]

The CDI does have a very simple ingenious timing control Clive, the higher the engine speed the quicker the rate of voltage rise at the inductive sensor meaning the trigger threshhold of the Thyrister will be reached earlier in deg. rotation of the crank shaft. A lot of the magic behind these deceptively simple harnesses can be explained by getting hold of an earlier Honda workshop manual, something like a CT110 series or the single cylinder trail bikes. If the lighting system has been copied correctly it's an AC/DC system, where the head and tail light operate straight from the magneto AC coil, the brake lamp and battery charging is via the DC section and the regulator. This was a deliberate system by Honda to the make the bikes unstoppable, no battery or a failed regulator, no problem providing the coil is not burnt you still have lights to see. Same logic for the CDI, completely independent of the battery DC system, if you can kick or push start the engine it will run. Royal Enfield still use open connectors like those to this day.

[@brianleeper5737]

Many riding mowers have the exact same setup--AC magneto coil powers the headlights, battery charging from the DC section/regulator (no brake lights on a riding mower though), and a CDI ignition completely independent of the battery DC system.

[@raygale4198]

@@brianleeper5737 Yes you're right very similar, that would also be a use for one of those ign kill leads Clive had, the dead man switch on the seat.

[@robertklein9190]

Everything corrodes on quad after time, even the rider.

[@mindbreak666]

It's true, my hair used to be red, it slowly became dark chocolate and is now falling off.

[@No-timeforimbeciles]

We used to repair reg/rect, they are set. In a hard resin substance, if careful you could melt the resin, scrape it out, & change the diodes, sometimes it worked, mostly not lol

[@bigclivedotcom]

I depotted the modules and made videos about them.

[@WolfmanDude]

Shorting the coil to ground is not as dramatic as you think. The coils operate like constant current sources, not like voltage sources. Some regulators even short the current to ground when the battery is fully charged!

[@roycadge]

When I was a teenager I had a kymco scout and it was a great little nipper but the wiring loom looks like this but with a few changes, Well after about 6 months wiring loom was shoot and I spend about 5 lunch breaks replacing the loom and I had to add additional safety bits eg front and rear fogs as the country lanes was so dark or very bad in bad weather, I also ended up fitting my own fusebox as every time going through shallow puddles the main fuse kept popping when starting, I would say it was fun but it wasn't, I ended up going OTT on it then after that I never had any issues until it was stolen when I was away on holiday, the crocks who took it must of know what they was doing as they manage to remove the tracker without trigging the alarm as they left the tracker, the alarm and the battery on the floor where my bike was. Grrrrr

[@chrisrogers2848]

I had a cheap Chinese scooter based on very much the same engine etc as this seems to be from. The headlight on there ran on AC direct from the stator

[@MrFlint51]

One of the safety switch connectors is probably for a "dead man's handle", a plug on the end of a wrist strap that pulls out if you fall off.

[@rarbiart]

on a lawn mower it would be the seat switch.

[@JasonShinks]

As a vfr owner and Clive enthusiast I'd love it if you could explain how the reg/rec works or, more specifically, fails. The viffer is renowned for it leaving you very helpfully high and dry.

[@garrett69]

Upgrade it to an R6 5EB reg/rec. The Honda item is notorious for overheating due to lack of heatsink.

[@steviebrad9447]

the two free wirers next to the stator are for a neutral gear switch in the engine

[@faster8409]

You are amazing w this

[@connormcdougall2341]

i remember when this guy was at 400k. crazy that hes almost at a million

[@tbthegr81]

At 17:36 The safety-switch on scooters is usually the side-stand, they if the side-stand is down they won't let you start the engine in fear of it driving away while you are not on it. That's usually one of the first thing I disconnect on a chinese scooter. (Instead they want you to use the center-stand that lifts the back wheel off the ground) Also, on both quads and scooters they want you to engage either front or back brake while you are running the starter. So to start ya need the side-stand up, brakes engaged, key on, killswitch off, and starter-button pressed.

[@tonyjarvie4245]

If I were to hazard a guess, (knowing virtually nothing about quad bikes except playing on them occasionally) then I'd say that the two "spare" kill switches would be; one for the clutch safety, and the other for a body-worn clip so that if you fall off then it stops the bike and it doesn't run over you and kill you. The dash lights I'd guess are for dashboard illumination so that you can see the speedo, etc.

[@ErwinHolland.]

18:00 you were correct, it's for the blinker relay.

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

I bought an E Cycle this past summer. 79V 3 phase motor I'd like to make 3 Lion packs to run on. Not an ebike. It's an electric motorcycle Kooks like a little crotch rocket. Does 90Km/h with the governor off. Had a blast all summer with it.

[@jeffreystroman2811]

Basket case two speed Italian moped with pedals. Trouble shot for a few days and I finnally stopped and wired up a tail light as that was missing. Then all of a sudden it started up. They ran the coil thru both the tail light and rear brake light so if rhe bulb burnt out it couldn't be ridden until a working bulb was installed at the rear fender. Pure genius on their part, mostly luck on mine

[@pulesjet]

I Worked for a factory that made harnisses. We made them for all sorta stuff. Tractors, buses and air craft.

[@bensonmerritt4605]

But not bicycles

[@pulesjet]

@@bensonmerritt4605 Bicycles don't have much of a harness going on with them.

[@MostlyInteresting]

Hey that voltage regulator is something you probably haven't seen before. It is a rectifier with a big fat zener circuit to shunt the output and prevent it from boiling the battery. It essentially puts a constant load on the motor. So the idle on the small low torque motors will be fairly consistent. so when there's no use for the alternator's power all of it gets dumped into the regulator module is heat.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The videos showing the depotted regulator and CDI will be released soon.

[@kocarolinaent]

i think the dash/ sidelight is actually for the rear lights and the reason it reacts to the safety switch is to turn on the light when u press the brake, and probably cant crank it unless you press the brake

[@willi-fg2dh]

very minor thing . . . old (like me) ignition points interrupted the current to the coil and used the collapse of the field to generate that big pulse to the spark plugs. ETA - the extra kill switch contacts are probably the clutch/neutral switch and a "you fell off the damn bike" switch that pulls out of the socket when a plug attached to the rider is yanked.

[@mippymoo069]

This is great ive just bought one of these to fix my sinnis shit motorbike and just looked at it and realised no instructions for wiring. This ia going to be a very handy video ;)

[@tsvandyke]

the connectors on the wiring harness ... only fit the corresponding connector ... meaning ... you CAN"T plug one wire into another connector by mistake. ... Asian have made it ... "white people proof"

[@harrisappleton5866]

Think I need one!

[@jaykoerner]

The safety switch is connected to the brakes,, this is to keep you from accidentally starting the engine and it taking off on you, the other side goes to the brake lights, this loom goes to a motor with a cervical clutch btw so there isn't a clutch lever

[@horrovac]

1: The safety switch is probably for the side stand. I don't really know what type of bike this is for, but on a normal motorbike you can start the engine while the side stand is extended (one switch), but as soon as you put it in gear (second switch) with the stand extended, the engine is killed. 2: The ignition box should have some kind of logic to delay ignition while in low RPM and advance it for higher RPM. So the signal coil doesn't really initiate the ignition, it just serves as an index on where the crank shaft is at the moment. Forget these animations where the piston sucks in air and the spark plug fires exactly when the piston is all the way up. It takes time for the flame front to travel throughout all the volume of the cylinder, if you fired the spark plug at the uppermost point it would combust only after the piston has gone down again and blow out the exhaust. At higher revs, the spark plug fires LONG before the piston reaches the top. An engine that fired the spark plug always at the same time would have piss-poor performance everywhere except at one point where the ignition advance fits the revs. 3: Say "au fait" once more and I'll come over to the Isle of Man and beat you up.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The CDI unit will be featured in an upcoming video. It has "interesting" circuitry, and not necessarily in a good way. There is a capacitor/resistor network that seems overly complex compared to other designs. You'll get the random bit of French from me occasionally. You can blame Disney for that. I worked in France for a while.

[@horrovac]

Oh I don't mind the French (I learned it myself), it's the repetition. But no need to barricade your door, just joking :). I'll be eagerly expecting that CDI video.

[@NathanielHatley]

The CDI and ignition coil could be on the handlebar side of the loom so that they can be mounted higher up on the chassis to reduce the likelihood of getting wet. The rest of the loom probably still can't handle water anyway due to the low price, so this design may have been copied from a more expensive loom.

[@misterhat5823]

My car still has a distributor. But it does have electronic ignition. The only problem it's had was related to the hall effect sensor used for timing.

[@spgoo1]

🎼Now let's start at the keyed ignition,🎵 🎼for the ignition is a good place to start🎶

[@Fr0z3nFr0g]

This is hilarious. I just bought a similar one off of Amazon for 30$ for my cheap Chinese 90cc quad. I ended up chopping everything apart, finding a schematic, using quality weather pack connectors and re-wiring everything. The way stuff was laid out made no sense at all and the quality of the connectors was laughable. Great video!

[@bryanpetrich4125]

Absolutely agree. I had to rip the whole thing apart also.

[@Karthor.]

Safety switch on my scooter is the hand brake, you usually need to hold it for the starter to engage