Exterior INSULATION Details from Matt’s House

Huge thanks to our www.atlasrwi.com/ for sponsoring this video!
Welcome back to the Real ReBuild project. This is my personal family home I'm building and if you've seen my videos you know I don't mess around with "standard" construction. In this video I'll show you how I'm putting a thick blanket of R-13 insulation on the entire outside of my house. More and more builders are being forced to do exterior insulation as codes progress forward. See all the details in this video!
Thanks to Rodenhouse for the cap fasteners, Senco Gun, and blades too! www.rodenhouse-inc.com/
The details page for the product I'm using here: wall.atlasrwi.com/products/re...
Compatible Tapes: wall.atlasrwi.com/atlas-wall-...
Follow Matt on Instagram! / risingerbuild
or Twitter / mattrisinger

[@nolanwalker7250]

This dude is going to need to turn on the AC if his kids don't blow out their birthday candles fast enough

[@rickrudd]

"My 2 inch panel is R...THIRTEEN."

[@paladin0654]

Nice job with "13" voice over.

[@9avedon]

Latest research claims this starts failing at just below 50 degrees ???

[@weldon9254]

Risinger is going to cool the whole house with an ice cube.

[@jefflawsonqwest]

Coming soon...world record blower door test.

[@johna1160]

Rodenhouse - hands down worse company name ever.

[@steffenpelz7114]

It is fun to watch Matt trick out every detail and air/water-proof every single seam of his house. But I am beginning to wonder if the drive for maximum performance is beginning to be counterproductive. For one thing, with the building down to its foundation, Matt had FAR more flexibility to create a dramatically different design that (while not necessarily fitting into the neighborhood) could have yielded better functionality. Secondly, top of the line HVAC systems (fully variable furnace and condenser) are so efficient these days that even a house not built to these specs (merely built well) will use a tiny amount of electricity even during peak heat here in TX. I imagine there is no way this kind of build would ever pay for itself under those circumstances. But I am curious what else Matt has up his sleeve as this build progresses.

[@sushrutachandramouli9335]

Take a shot every time Matt says "thicc blanket" in this series XD

[@flyeyes65]

Polyisocyanurate in the south on the warm side makes sense. In the north, many of us believe the labeled R value. However, as I considered 2 or 3 in. of exterior c.i. I stumbled into the pentane condensation phase diagram and the semi-definitive studies by NRCA '09, '14; and BSR '13. With 2-in. exterior c.i. and R-13 in the stud cavity, I anticipated thermal performance of R4 to R5 per inch. Overnight it would be lower yet. While I ditched the idea and bought 3-in of EPS Type 9, I have mused over putting the polyiso on the inside (still thick enough to prevent summer condensation) . That appears to put the Class 1 vapor retarder in the right place for us Yankees, and we can put our interior furring over the polyiso in any direction as a screw base for the wall board and have clear voids for utilities. But there must be a fly in the ointment, otherwise wouldn't we already be doing this?

[@justinl9947]

Lot's of great details here, but one important missing point for people in northern climates. Polyiso insulation is the worst choice for exterior insulation in cold climates. Polyiso is often chosen because it has the best R-value per inch, keeping wall thickness down, while being more expensive than other insulation types.

[@johnswackhammer3374]

Matt, I have been a builder for about twenty-five years and always have tried to build superior houses, but always have been held back by people’s budgets or the companies I have worked for wouldn’t spend the money to go the extra mile. Even though they or I built a beautiful home and reasonably energy efficient they just never

[@dienekes4364]

I had to tear the drywall out of one of the walls of a bedroom in my house and decided to try an experiment. Instead of putting bat insulation back into the cavities, I bought a couple of 4x8 sheets of the 2" foam insulation at HD, cut them into strips, and filled the cavities with them. Then I used spray foam to seal around the edges. I'm in Tucson AZ, and that room is the southeast corner of the house (I did this in the south wall) and has consistently been the coolest room in the house. It's AMAZING how well that insulation works, especially when it is sealed in and there is no air movement.

[@matthagge4792]

Videos like this are absolutely invaluable. I have an old 1970s home in Canada that's 2x4 framed and is in need of an energy retrofit. New builds are easy enough, but I've always wondered what solutions are needed to add exterior insulation to an existing home. Addressing things like the foam overhang at the sill-plate of the wall, and the zip-system for an air barrier is great info.

[@Architectureguy]

Matt - Absolutely LOVE your videos! I just used R-5 1" foam panels (3 layers thick) to insulate my low storage doors and it really made a huge difference during a cold spell we had last week. My 18 yo daughter helped me cut them and stick on the back sides of the doors and she got a really good appreciation for what it took to make them close tight against the jambs.

[@guytech7310]

6:03

[@funny-video-YouTube-channel]

Good job !

[@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs]

Yes Matt, Steve B did an awesome job in Episode 6 of the Boston build showing on his architect plan, 3 examples of how Rvalue is affected. I have learned so much recently from Steve B. architect. The whole wall is not just the cavity but opaque frame, windows and doors. Whole wall could be about 60%, with opaque frame being 20% and windows and doors being 20%. What is "misleading" in the industry is that contractors will tell you they are providing a wall of R23, say if ICF, BUT they Do Not Tell you that is is Only the Cavity they are talking about. STeve goes to prove that an R23 "wall" is probably only an R13 once you calculate the loss of R value from the Windows/doors (R3-7) and opaque frame R value is 1R per inch, so 5.5inch stud is 5.5R value. Windows, doors and opaque framing significantly reduce the overall "whole wall" R value. So don't be fooled when a contractor tells you he can give you an R23 wall.....ask him how he arrived at that R value and challenge him on low R values for window and doors and opaque framing. Thanks Steve B and Matt cheers from Atlantic Canada, Prince Edward Island. I am getting ready for an extension mostl likely in 2024 due to challenges of finding the right builder and very expensive to build due to materials costly, and a line up with drafts person and getting a permit....not enough people with such a high demand in building homes here. In the meantime, I get to learn a lot to prep for dealing with the trades people as I act as the "contractor" to make a team that will pay attention to sequencing of water, air, vapour and thermal tightness with a thick blanket on envelop of full basement ICF and 3 storey high. 🙃 🇨🇦🍁

[@jamieohare2428]

Interested to see how he insulates the garage. Every house I’ve been in, any room above the garage is always cold in the winter

[@ivanhuertadelavega3724]

I would love to see a CAD detail of these walls!!! Stunning construction