Window Install with Thick Exterior Insulation

[@xBRVTALx]

Building a house that can double as a submarine. Pure genius.

[@bikesqump]

chimney? no, that's a snorkel!

[@jerryclleung]

Thank you Matt, for doing a step by step.. for us, DIYers..

[@jmhall918]

Building my own house, and I'm using this as the exact design for all of my windows. Thanks so much, Matt!

[@OneManLikeNoOneElse]

I really love the way you point out every little detail of this install. You remove any guess work for DIY guys like me!!! THANK YOU! I need to know more about roof overhang, soffits and building out the bird box on corners! 😀👍

[@jasonandrew5306]

Glad to know Matt is using OSI like us normal folk. Makes me realize that he used that on his personal house means is good for anyone.

[@Veevslav1]

Lets be honest, Matt is using what people are giving to him.

[@billmunny6608]

Glad you finally did this detail missing from most of your other videos, You do your sponsors a disservices by leaving important details like this out. Thank you

[@BattlePhrog165]

Annnnnnnnd now we all know where you live LOL. Thank you for putting out some great content!!! I learn something every episode and I plan on putting it all to use when I build my next house.

[@terryturcotte7494]

Seriously appreciate how you keep pulling away and show in detail how this done. It’s all in the details. Good job.

[@dangolden7200]

I love seeing a stainless steel flashing. I'm a sheet metal man and wish more people would catch on to stainless. It costs twice what galvanized does, but lasts four times as long, thereby technically costing half in the long run.

[@StreamingF1ydave]

Dont know how I missed this video...I think this is my favorite so far. Love all the details.

[@treystills]

This video is perfect! Clear explanation and video that shows step by step installation. This is a format that finally realizes the full potential of your channel Matt. Thank you!

[@intothewildnow]

Agreed!

[@LamarWestley]

Im in BC going for my builders license absolutely love the vids very informative thanks so much Matt

[@360milliondollars]

This is perfect test bed for seeing what works and what doesn't it being your home and seeing how things last over time and revisiting the area of builds for update.

[@believerscc]

I would like to know how much all the zip tape on this house cost.

[@wjthehomebuilder]

Less money than zip flashing. I can assure you of that!

[@SuperEddietv]

2 bucks a foot for the stretch, .75 cents a foot for the flashing tape.

[@89Ayten]

@@SuperEddietv wow 3/4 of a cent!

[@89Ayten]

Between 70-90 cents a foot depending on how much you buy and where you buy it.

[@jasonandrew5306]

Probably Zero because he is sponsored

[@ericfeuerhelm2459]

Definitely subscribed after seeling your attention to detail. I am a diy'er and this is exactly what I'm doing right now. This answered my questions I was having about the 2" foam to 1x4 strapping and how to tie everything in to make it stand the test of time

[@apscoradiales]

Good job on the window, air barrier and flashing installation. We would normally see this only on large commercial, institutional projects, never on residential. It is really next to impossible to get the construction guys on residential projects to be as careful unless you (as an architect or architectural technologist) are on the site, holding hands and yelling a whole lot.

[@lannysternburg263]

Stupendous job! Professional, tight,sealed. A plus seeing the horseshoe (insurance) on bottom of sill!

[@roupa131]

Not my first rodeo with JW. Customer service to be nice, falls short of world class operations. Good luck and I wish you all the best with your windows. The installation is flawless and the stretch tape should absorb the eventual unit movement. Love the attention to the many details.

[@justinbleau9374]

Zip-R9 has the rigid insulation pre-applied to the backside of the sheathing/WRB, I’m currently using it on a project and we’re achieving the same thermal-bridging concept with far less man hours and less confusing when it come to flashing, trim-out and siding install.

[@ron3038]

Thanks for all the videos. I am upgrading my current home in Idaho and the building even though it was to code is horrible to heat. We are putting every bit of what you share to use. Absolutely awesome thanks.

[@testpilot1975]

Hi Matt, I like the taping and flashing to keep the water out from around the window and channeled down the rain screen. But, I think you left out an important detail for taping around the 2 inch window bucks. I think there should be zip tape all around the bucks (from the inside of the rough opening around the buck to the Zip sheathing). The way it is now, any water that gets behind the insulation and runs up against the bucks will run into the gap between the buck and the Zip sheathing and never dry out. Taping off the bucks like all the other Zip sheathing would ensure any and all water that gets behind the insulation will flow down and out.

[@zanepaxton7452]

I had the same concern; it’s a continuity of the WRB issue. The openings need to religiously seal against the WRB. Unless, the outside face of rigid insulation is really the primary WRB and the face of ZIP panels a secondary WRB….? Belt and suspenders approach?

[@John-Adams-Can]

I have been looking for this for weeks. Thanks Matt could not figure this out for our house in Northern Canada.

[@theinternets7516]

I really like that you're thinking on the order of 100+ years when you build rather than 30+ years like most builders.

[@brycetaylor6001]

I just read a few comments and I see that Bartram Dilks had the same observation. I hate to be a noodge; so much of your advice seems really spot on, I'm getting some great continuing ed from you.

[@ARMENAMERIKANE]

Matt that window could come with a waterproof warranty for years good job! also excellent product and a bonus arm work out with the J roller. I will definitely use this on the next install.

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

Matt, outstandingly detailed explanation. A+ work.

[@kianpanel-ci4gv]

nothings better than a DIY window installation😂 thank you for this

[@jesusisaliberal548]

So the order was zip, then zip flashing tape around rough opening, then 2x bucks, then foam, then install flanged window, more flash tape or liquid flash, then rain screen battens, then siding?

[@BobPritchard]

Fantastic detail. And done right. I'm guessing few construction teams follow these steps even if the architectural plans lay them out. Ask me how I know:( And that's the problem. A bit complex for the average framer.

[@holdenbeck8636]

Killer install, Matt. That's a lot of Zip tape in one place! Love to see the level of detail and consideration. Keep it up!

[@snowgorilla9789]

Holy Smokes that is impressive Up here in Vancouver Canada that system looks like it could even keep our rains out Take that as a compliment

[@thegurw1994]

As a Glazier, Tajima is the only cartridge caulking gun I use. That exact model, actually :p I love the ratio switch, one gun for 95% of the adhesives, sealants, and caulking types I use. Quick comment on level vs plumb: level is horizontal, plumb is vertical...but in-out, not left-right. You were thinking square. Three dimensions: level, plumb, square. Also invest in a glazier's suction cup.

[@DylanFarrow]

Almost embarrassed to say... that is some sexy waterproofing. Thank you for the details

[@charlessandberg7006]

I am looking forward to the next demo of Jeld-Wen windows! Thanks

[@jesusisaliberal548]

Is there a sill on top of the framing horizontal member? Or is the sub sill the sill in this build/example?

[@andrewschmidt7016]

This is good timing - my framer is feeling a little skittish about windows over 2” rigid exterior insulation and this gives me some more info to help them get through what appears to be a trend that won’t be going away anytime soon in continuous exterior insulation

[@davidchristian2071]

Great work Matt.....excellent waterproofing! 👍🏻🔨👍🏻🔨👍🏻🔨👍🏻

[@bonafidetom52]

Belt, suspenders, waders, interior prophylactics, you name it you got it.

[@kookiethebear]

Along with an empty bank account if you aren't sponsored by Huber. I'm guessing he used a couple of pallets of tape on his build.

[@samholden7563]

Nice job. I suggest making the window buck thinner than the foam, the thickness of your window flange & fasteners. This will allow your trim to sit flat.

[@DevengerKott]

I love this video! Great step-by-step process of installing a new window in new construction like this! I wonder though: how would you adjust this install if you were putting in a replacement window on an existing house that's been upgraded with exterior insulation? I think I can piece out the necessary adjustments to the process, but a video like this one along those lines would be great!

[@AnN-py2em]

Have they done any demonstrations on what the stretch tape looks like in say 10-20 years

[@wardengrn]

Ya he did a sun test on one video, direct sun, it held up well

[@Gary-cq8zw]

Matt I like watching your videos. why not use a wider stud like a 2x6 for the window framing and rip that so you have one continuous wood product? Then use a wider stretch tape to seal the entire window box?

[@davidribeca1745]

I have not used those wood screws in treated lumber . In the past i have used other manufactures brands of screws and had failures because the screws coating did not hold up to the chemicals in the wood. The roofing nails even though they are coated will rot as well. I would suggest regular lumber over the treated lumber for your bucks because those fasteners will never make the 100 year mark! You have plenty of waterprofing to prevent regular lumber from rot!

[@Ebbrush3]

Matt...on every build I use granite for my interior window sills ...looks great and easy to clean.....just cut down countertop backsplash from the stone supply and liquid nails ..then drywall I do this for all my builds for the last 20 yrs

[@TThomas939]

Did you build my house lol

[@TylerDickey1]

Wicked smart! Great if your wife loves to put plants on the sills.

[@jt5747]

Is that a big bubble at the bottom of the window after he installed the stretch tape?

[@the_DOS]

Now that's a lot of waterproofing.

[@Freerunx3]

the DOS, seems standard, first layer of zip is air proofing.

[@edwardlouie]

Curious, why didn't you use ThermalBuck in the window opening design?

[@fumusfumus]

sponsorship is for tape. You can't blame him and he's open about it.

[@user-tv5dt3nm9y]

Tremendous window installs. A fella has to wonder, when will we have a revolution in window design? Thinking out loud, here: ‘Windows’ integral to the wall panel... We can build most of the wall in the manner preferred, but some portion of the wall panel will be (pre) constructed containing the transparent panel (‘window’) eliminating the labor and skill intensive exercise of traditional window sub-assemblies. Instead of structural sheet material in this portion of the wall there will be a transparent panel. Great quality control will be possible. Little to no chance of air, moisture, or humidity gaps or installation errors. Tests can easily be easily performed at time of fabrication to confirm quality of assembly. Foreseeable are, lower cost of construction and profoundly longer service life. Great opportunity to explore glass alternatives or glass/composite hybrid transparent panels. Transparent panels with variable light transmission may be possible. Window shape and sizing is no more difficult than it is to build a wall to spec. Wall design will seamlessly incorporate transparent panels via CAD.

[@MrDavez]

love the info in all your videos,,, I'm doing new siding windows, and doors on a 2004 double-wide in Mi. for an extra 1700 I am installing 1.5 pink formular 150 R7.5. around the whole house. Striping exterior,, finding no house wrap below,, just osb, and gaps. So tape some gaps,, typar house wrap complete, I'm making 1.5 window bucks out of 1in ios, and .5 in osb. 4 " wide around all window openings. using the huber flex flashing for all openings.

[@1waydago]

Go with Loewen windows if you got the pockets for it!!! You won't regret it, I worked in the factory here in Steinbach, MB, and I can say that the attention to detail is amazing

[@seanmcguire7974]

If I was doing a new build for a dream house, I would def want matt to be a project manager to get all of the latest n greatest. N I would ask him to go overkill on alot of things to make it last for 100s of years with little or basic maintenance. I mean, just look at how these windows are going in. This is next level

[@chaimszlaf3580]

The extension wood around the window opening, added later to fill the space of foam. Should have been done prior to installing the insulation and waterproofed as one with the whole opening. As of now you are choking any water 💧 that gets behind the insulation?? Specifically any moisture or leaks from above the windows

[@vzgsxr]

Good lord that's a lot of layers. Come to Australia Matt, see how basic and simple residential houses are built here. 😂

[@russb7]

Do you lose some air tightness by not caulking the bottom side of the windows and leaving the weep holes?

[@lrc87290]

Everything is air sealed from the inside.

[@glennjones604]

This is my concern too, Matt has not mentioned sealing on the inside in previous videos, plus they keep saying the timber frame is sloped to allow it to drain out of the window aperture so it carnt be sealed on the inside? Would love to hear Matt's detail on this.

[@jesseh2302]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJfNdXWwl9yEeqM here is a window video install he did where he talks about it. Start about 10:30 where he starts talking about it.

[@scorpio6587]

@@jesseh2302 Thank you.

[@jasonandrew5306]

@@glennjones604 yes he has. You haven't looked hard enough. He has a video about the product call air dam by prosoco

[@israelcontreras5332]

I love you stuff! I watch stuff at least weekly for a few hours. One question… Why are yall wearing respiratory protection while installing the window when you guys are standing outside?

[@davidnielsen4490]

Great job of installation Matt. Also, very informative. Thank you.

[@mf9264]

Great video. Really appreciate you going through the details but I'm thinking I might be missing something. What's preventing air from passing from inside the home to the outside world via the gap between the bottom buck and windows bottom flange? Understand you didn't caulk that so that water any water "that finds it way behind the window and ends up on the bottom sill can drain to the outside" but I'm thinking that also means that you don't have an air seal there.

[@axhhxa580]

Cost of all Matt's zip tape = cost of new concrete skyscraper

[@MakeMeThinkAgain]

I would call this The Best Practices Series.

[@lawlerzwtf]

How's the adhesion over time? I don't know... stretching something like that and without a primer... I feel like I would rather use a fluid applied monolithic or a proper sheet applied waterproofing. Also... is there no air barrier on the exterior sheathing???

[@augustreil]

Just said the same thing. I would rather see a liquid flash around the window area as well. I do like the tin flashing they put above the window though.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

@@augustreil Was that galv tin or stainless?

[@uh1pilot458]

www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/literature/ZIP-System-Sheathing-and-Tape-Fact-Sheet.pdf it is both air and water. the nail heads get a sealant put on them too

[@augustreil]

@@kevinhornbuckle, Not sure, sorry.

[@capedcrusaderforbuilders9671]

Would sure like to see you detail out a window recess-installed into ICF when it wall will be given only a parged finish

[@davidrobinson5581]

At 14:27 when you’re fixing the head flashing. I Think you should raise the flashing 5mm so it’s off the alum window head just to avoid any capillary ingress of moisture. That’s how we do it in New Zealand

[@ryanspence7239]

Would R-Guard stick well to the ployiso boards? Or even the zip liquid flashing? For those who might prefer it over the tape

[@alexlindekugel8727]

exactly the kinda video i was looking for.

[@Ashroyer86]

Very good commentary on the details. One question: if the goal is to be super air tight, how is that addressed with the gap under the window for the drainage plane? A bead of silicone on the interior edge of the sill?

[@dosadoodle]

> A bead of silicone on the interior edge of the sill? Yes, that's my understanding.

[@DoorwinGroupCom]

That’s really helpful for our USA clients windows installation. Will share with our USA clients for sure. We are making hundreds of Thermal Break Aluminum Black Color Windows For California, Texas and New Jersey Clients

[@debraaugustine4529]

I love all of your work

[@zanepaxton7452]

I’d love to see all your exterior shell details because I’m thinking of doing something similar except corrugated metal siding

[@ulrichkessler9328]

Do you have video explaining the 5 degree sill slope, how to make it. You said cutting the 2x4 sill to 5 degree, did you mean cutting vertical cripples to 5 deg?

[@ClayAutery]

Love it.... ANYTHING worth doing is worth doing to excess!!! Over-engineering WORKS!

[@AGuyandHisProjects]

2" of exterior insulation! I'm jealous lol. Another great video as always man!

[@ulysseshamm6667]

I realize we aren’t to the point of the air sealing around the window on the interior but I’m thoroughly looking forward to learning how to do that to achieve the lowest blower door test

[@ulysseshamm6667]

I think I remember that video a couple years ago. Hoping to have a refresher.

[@tcranston]

Seems like you have a thermal bridge through the wood frame and wood buck for the window. What about ripping some Zip R12 as the buck instead of just plain lumber?

[@aoverhage5181764]

What stops air infiltration in the gaps under the windows into the conditioned space? Obviously you want the drainage, but not the air. Foam the bottom on the inside?

[@augustreil]

Yup, sealed from the inside.

[@christophermiller3123]

With this install is there now an air gap at the bottom of the window into the house? Is this sealed on the interior? If not how does this affect the blower for test?

[@derradfahrer5029]

I'm wondering the same thing.

[@holdenbeck8636]

The RO will be sealed from this inside. He will likely be using backer rod and a caulking to fill.

[@RustyNail600]

Christine Williamson (building science fight club) did a really good explanation of this on this old house a while back. The exterior is the water control layer. The interior is the air control layer. The window is caulked to rough opening. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnXEY6yMlrGLh6c

[@MrJramirex]

They caulk all the sides at the inside so no small openings but still allows any water that may work it's way back then to drain to the exterior.

[@joecnc3341]

In another video - he used foam Backer Rod and Minimal Expanding foam to seal the inside.

[@rajinrajkumar7094]

Break shape sill above window would make more sense if the up leg against the zip wall was installed behind the zip wall. In this clip you it against the moisture plane. If the tape fails, moisture can get into building. Thanks

[@johannschuster9730]

Designing our retirement cabin in Eastern Tennessee - Will be doing ZIP-R & Rockwool under the Hardi-Plank. We'll be bucking windows too. Can ZIP Stretch Tape work directly on Rockwool?

[@Joe-N-Kat]

Isn't the drainage gap at the bottom of the windows counter productive to the overall goal of an airtight home? I would think that when you do the blower door test it would greatly impact the results.

[@augustreil]

They seal the windows from the inside.

[@goxavierracing]

Wouldn't the strapping make the siding kick out to far? I'm at this stage of my build and 1'm using 1" foam and was thinking about coming out 1-3/4 so the strapping for siding is flush with the back of the nailer?

[@robottrainer]

awesome content, great work. Enjoy your step by step and descriptive explanation.

[@ChrisMaveric]

Matt... do you ever think about "cost" when walking viewers through the repeated flashing steps? It seems to me there's 4... redundant. I know that each step is weeks apart so it misleads viewers to believe thats the correct method of install when it's actually a personal preference. That said, Incredible workmanship is always on display & greatly appreciated, always impressive to see in The Build show videos!

[@l1t7l3ph0o7]

can you do masonry on the outside of that foam? does it require another backing board? I'd be really interested in seeing how an exterior wall with the foam on the outside could support rock-tile or brick-tile or something similar.

[@jetmaster1221]

google masonry rain screen theres one with a built in scratch layer

[@GenZyannd]

interesting to see whether taping buck to poliso face would compromise the airtightness. since Matt was hoping for passive house standard, we will see aerobarrier?

[@chadbennett]

Why did you move away from the Fast Flash that you did in your mock up to a zip tape flash -> buck -> stretch tape sill -> zip tape tie in? The zip tape looks simpler / less messy but curious why the switch.

[@dangerfar]

Have you considerer coating the house in Aerogel? Seems like it might be a bit easier

[@leestevens446]

@@David-gld If you have to ask.......It is very expensive. When you build a $150K expedition camper body for your 4x4 truck, you look into it. Also, it is extremely low density, so must watch the compressive loading. Not a good candidate for the crude and cheap world of residential construction. Awesome product, however.

[@dangerfar]

Thomas Leisman Comment was sarcastic, aerogel is expensive as hell.

[@robertwan8561]

Is there any new material out now in 2022 that can be used in place of the "buck" 2x2 boards that you can nail the window into? I am thinking that it would be nice to have a better insulating material.

[@bcimato]

Matt if you caulk and tape over 3 sides of your windows for water and air sealing purposes, please help me understand how it is an air sealed install if the bottom is open to weep water should the window develop a leak later in life? BTW thank you for the videos you put out!!

[@guytech7310]

My guess is he will add more air seal from the inside. I used EDPM gasket material around my windows. but I didn't leave the bottom exposed. I also primed, caulked and taped my window bucks so if moisture did get in there its not going to cause rot. My windows have a weep drain so less concerned about trapped water. Also I have a thermal break between the wall and the window buck to address thermal bridging. I applied a bead of caulking around the window opening before installing the window buck. Also applied a bead around the edges after the buck was installed just to make sure no water is getting behind the Buck.

[@augustreil]

They air seal from the inside.

[@ryanstephens2157]

With all of the other things done to a perfect T as you guys have done, would an air gap really be necessary at the bottom for potential drainage? I’m looking at building in Climate Zone 6 (Montana) and am just wondering about air drafts.

[@hempelcx]

Confused. This is a passive house with outstanding air tightness. While it makes sense for water control, doesn't the drainage gap at the bottom sill allow unhindered air flow directly into the wall cavity? It seems like that would be a major deficiency in the air barrier?

[@MeetKevin]

Looking amazing!

[@terrymiller5028]

I LOVE how you are building ,insulating and protecting the shell of this house. How is this airtight when you do not seal the bottom flange and have a gap under the window with the 1/8” shim?

[@michaelhale867]

Pretty sure he foam seals the inside gap all around

[@augustreil]

Like Michael Hale said, the windows are air sealed from the interior.

[@terrymiller5028]

Thanks. I thought he would do something along those lines, but is that enough to match the Rvalue of the rest of the walls?

[@augustreil]

@@terrymiller5028, Probably not even close.

[@apscoradiales]

Note about building tapes; I am not familiar with the Zip tape you are using, but there have been some failures with similar tapes. The glue gives over time, and the tape will simply separate from the substrates. Warrants investigating tapes to make sure they do what they're designed to do. Obviously, some are better than others. We tend to use Bakor self-healing or torched on membranes - they act as air barriers too.

[@scorpio6587]

I was waiting for the custom flashing. It looks great. Beautiful precision work.

[@88KeysIdaho]

Wouldn't just sealing and taping it be good enough? I'm retro-fitting some of my windows, and cut the siding away from the old flange, and then put in the replacement windows, and cover the scars with trim boards around the windows. Maybe we don't get the torrential wind-driven rains like they do in his area.

[@79genesis11]

@Matt Risinger, would really like to see an example of how your exterior doors were installed and detailed with trim etc...

[@2857steve]

So I get shipping the bottom of the jam in order to allow water to drain out but my question is doesn't that create an air leakage issue or does the bevel on the bottom sill keep it tight on the inside edge?

[@swaycooler]

Question on the the energy shield foam board .....does that silver on the outside work as a radiant barrier....I don’t think that’s aluminum but is some type of spray ?

[@mikemills8765]

When you cut your sills at a 5 degree angle, where are you measuring your rough opening? Inside or outside - or somewhere in the middle?

[@ulrichkessler9328]

I'm actually running into the similar situation, i have 1" rigid foam and building up 1" buck around the opening where we can install window (nailing fin) on the top it looks like perfect solution, this way the foam will be flush with the fin. The only question is when reviewing the code and installation instructions it says: "Embedment must be a minimum of 1 1/4" into the structural framing" So is the 1" buck counts as the "framing" since technically it is 'outside' of the wall framing? My window depth is 3.25" that leaves 2.25 before the fin minus the sheeting 0.75" which leaves 1.5" embedded into the frame (2x4) If we build the buck 1" out, that will technically leave the window only 0.5" inside the frame (2x4)

[@nolanbillings8426]

Matt, how are you air sealing the bottom of the window since it is spaced up and out off the jam? Are you foaming it on the inside?

[@chaseweeks2708]

Matt, it's really cool to see how this is coming together from the ground up, and unfortunately from up to the ground first. I wonder if you could share your thoughts on how to engineer high end insulation and sealing on something crazier, like a geodome or A-frame. Maybe an idea for a video if you ever get bored?

[@roborocko]

how would it be different? same dance different tune...

[@chaseweeks2708]

@@roborocko I'm thinking that it would be interesting to see his take on trying to seal and insulate a complex shape like a geodome, or how the structure of the roof/wall could be set up in a more efficient way.