Extremely yellowed Commodore 128 black screen repair and restore - Part 1

[@jeffreyphipps1507]

This is the third KZbin channel I watch regularly where Commodore machines appear to have been tanning next to the sun on Mercury. Two Vic-20s, a C64, and now a C128! Sooner or later we’ll get them all a)retrobrited, b)painted, or c)replaced cases. :-)

[@Arcticretro]

Yes, it is fun;)

[@HAGSLAB]

I'm guessing the VIC-20s you're talking about is from Adrian's Digital Basement? :D

[@jeffreyphipps1507]

@@HAGSLAB One of them (ADB got a Vic and a C64 - He originally thought they were two Vics). The oddest thing there was that the Vic was yellowed worse on the BOTTOM. Was it pressed against a window? That's just a mystery. The other thing was that both machines for the ADB had keys obviously yellowed (including the top lettering), but the front side lettering was not - it was still white. I saw one other, elsewhere. It was very yellowed, but more like this C128 than the ADB machines. That is, the coloring of the yellowing was dark but different. Different plastics or different exposure to the sun. Who knows. I was just in awe of the number of yellowing on a number of machines during a short period of time. Weird!

[@bwack]

Thank you very much for the video. It is very calm and therapeutic to watch you cleaning the electronics. I remember a friend near me had a C128. The first games I saw on it was Ghostbusters and commando .. I think also a game with a bonus level where you got points for killing people on a firing squad.. That made a impression obviously :D I don't remember the name. Maybe it was rambo..

[@Arcticretro]

Thanks :) Commando was my favorite. I rounded it once.

[@Hounddoggy33]

Greets from Canada! I like how you say "shit" so nonchalantly! Keep up the great work!

[@captaincorleone7088]

Love this videos and I'm looking forward to part 2. :)

[@Arcticretro]

Thanks! Coming next friday:)

[@lactobacillusprime]

It is amazing how yellow these old machines can get, even without having been exposed to cigarette smoke.

[@Breakfast_of_Champions]

There must have been something in the air, it's even got some zink oxide on the EM cover.

[@Arcticretro]

Yes, this one was exceptionally yellow. But I got it white as you will see in the next episode :)

[@jameshearne891]

I'm sure the break in the track next to the black wire was cut intentionally as part of the modification with the wire .kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5_MeWiQlK5jr7M

[@HAGSLAB]

Yellow....I mean Hello! :) That thing is looking dangerous! 😂🟡 Great video as always Tommy!

[@Arcticretro]

Almost brown..

[@bwack]

I wonder when the machines started to yellow. I don't remember seeing any yellowing on my C64 when I played with it back in 2004 before stashing it back into the top of the høyskapet. Then in 2015 I pulled it out and it was yellowed. Wow this C128 is very yellow :)

[@Arcticretro]

It varies a lot. I have two other 128's and they are nearly not yellowed at all

[@congestiontv]

@bwack Let me tell you, my C64 yellowed during my excessive eighties and nineties usage. It really depends on the different plastics used. And the machines around me now are early 1984 models made in Western Germany. 🤠 And all of this must have nothing to do with names of fellow citicens of mine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJutnJeIlsZjask yeah.

[@StigDesign]

hvordan retro bright på norsk sån steg for steg? :) type alkohol/sprit og hvor kan man kjøpe den og den såpen+den elektro sprayen? :D kjempe bra video som vanlig :D btw 10:53 ca,er det vanlig tannbørste? jeg trodde tannbørste kansje ikke var trygt å bruke på kretskort pga statisk elektrisitet :)

[@laupert9021]

Beste kilden jeg har funnet for rimelig hydrogenperoksid jeg har funnet her hjemme er Silverlines. Klar hydrogenperoksid kjøper jeg av apcpure på eBay. Så er det bare å prøve seg fram, men ikke start med den mest dyrebare maskina du har 😊

[@Arcticretro]

For vanlig rens bruker jeg såkalt blå-sprit (isopropanol). Fås på malingsbutikker, Obs bygg osv. For retrobrighting må du bruke hydrogenperoksid. Det er ikke så lett å få tak i. Jeg kjøpte det som krem på en frisør-utstyrsbutikk på nettet. Apotek har, men svært dyrt. Det er vanlig tannbørste. Det har gått bra til nå:) Electro spray har de på Jula og Biltema

[@StigDesign]

@@laupert9021 Tusen takk :) meste jeg har av elektro er verdifult for meg hehe, men tror skal finne noe for og kunne prøve meg fremm, kansje gammelt kabinett som er missfarget :)

[@StigDesign]

@@Arcticretro åh skjønner, Tusen takk :) blå sprit har jeg sett ja :D åja hydrogenperogsid ja har hørt om det er en variant i Corsodyl også. ja er sikkert di 2 jeg må sjekke pga prisen hehe :)

[@bwack]

@@StigDesign kjell og co har hatt veldig bra "IpaClean IPA" 99.5% I forskjellig mengder. Rett etter covid-12mars ble det fort tomt på de. Nå finner jeg ingenting der lenger. Ser ut som de har tatt det ut av sortementet. Før dette brukte jeg forgasser-rens. Det var ikke så "ren", men det fungerte jo det også til å fjerne fluss og andre ureneheter :) Biltema har en 400mL spray boks som heter elektronikkrengjøring. Det er 2-propanol (isopropanol). Det er den jeg bruker nå. Forferdelig lukt, virker som det er mye aceton i den. Så luft ekstra godt om du bruker den.

[@wimwiddershins]

It's strange that some keys are yellow and others not. Commodore maybe mixed batches. Great video, the C128 is as close as we got to a (sort of) upgraded C64.

[@Arcticretro]

Thanks:)

[@watchmakerful]

I had a similar case with an old calculator. The board looked slightly damaged by corrosion, but in fact 90% (!!!) of the PCB traces were without continuity. The only way to fix was to scratch off all these traces and to make a rat's nest with wires.

[@Mnnvint]

Jeg blir imponert over din standhaftighet! Jeg har lekt med tanken å skaffe meg en gammel C64 eller 128 igjen, men jeg innser at det er nesten litt uansvarlig for en som meg som ikke vet stort om restaurering - det er tydelig at en må kunne sine ting! Det får vel bli med emulatorer (og kanskje en commander x16 om den en dag kommer!)

[@Arcticretro]

Bare kjøp en og begynn i det små.

[@UncleAwesomeRetro]

Neida. Du kan jo skaffe en fungerende C64, bruke moderne strømforsyning bare og putte på kjøleribber på de varmeste brikkene. Jeg kan ingenting om elektronikk men jeg fikk reparert 2 stykker ved å se på hvordan andre gjorde det. Og får du det ikke til kan du sende den til retroservice.no

[@Arcticretro]

@@UncleAwesomeRetro Eller til meg, så fikser jeg den ;)

[@UncleAwesomeRetro]

@@Arcticretro Åh så du tar på deg oppdrag også :) Det er jo flott.

[@Mnnvint]

@@UncleAwesomeRetro ja, det er vel ikke alle som er så tøffe å feilsøke som den i videoen her... hadde ikke hørt om retroservice, takk for tipset!

[@Hagledesperado]

Time to check if there is clock signal where there's supposed to be. And maybe check the reset signal, if it behaves as it's supposed to. An oscilloscope or a logic probe will make it easier, but it should be perfectly doable with a decent multimeter as well.

[@Arcticretro]

Yes, watch the next part on friday ;)

[@taltechchip5827]

You should messure every oxidated and discoloured trace for continuity and start checking signals. Clock, reset circuit, data bus, use your dead test cartridge etc... But please don't give up:)

[@Arcticretro]

Thanks. I did not give up. Next week we might see something ;)

[@MrWaalkman]

Looks like one of my 128s. :)

[@m4rgin4l]

Holy crap! I've never seen that shade of brown. It's almost orange.