F150 4.6 engine knock is wrist pin knock

[@stankdog]

You probably just saved people a lot of headaches

[@garyr7027]

Ended up overhauling my 4.6 out of my 97 f150 for various reasons, turned out it had two wrist pins that were not up to par. I had all 8 pin bushings replaced as you can only buy the bushings as a set. I pressed them in myself, that was the easy part, then had a shop honne them for the new wrist pins. Plus, I got new pistons with the oil drain back holes, as the originals did not have that... crappy design pistons. From the time I bought the truck there was a slight knock at start-up but when the engine warmed up it quit. If I'd of never got into that engine, I'd of never knew why it did that. Unless bushings get real bad, it's very difficult to diagnose wrist pin bushings, it sounds like other problems that's hard to pinpoint. This problem is created by detonation, usually running crap gas for too long, and or the ignition timing way off. In normal conditions, wrist pin bushings and pins should be good for the life of the engine.

[@sespider]

I sure hope that's not my issue. I can't afford to have that fixed and I'm not skilled enough to try it myself. I have a video up if anyone wants to hear the knocking I'm dealing with. I know it's not the oil nor starter as they both have been replaced.

[@tomtran4431]

You found right spot.thanks

[@SeeSawMacaw]

Seems like it’s always number 3 issues in the 4.6

[@sdrake74]

thank you for the video

[@sebastianharrison6118]

Thanks I had the same problem and pulled all my rod caps bering look brand new all just to find out its wrist pin

[@SilverWolf7335-qg3yl]

Good day, I have a similar issue with a 09 f150 with 4.6, but my knocking sound disappears from time to time, and it only sounds when idle, no ticking/knocking when revving

[@Vertigoneardeath]

My 4.6 knocks. I don't know where the sound comes from. I have gotten under the car with the engine running and really can't pin-point where the sound comes from. My next step will be concentrated on removing the oil pan with engine still in car and checking for wiggle in either the rod bearings or wrist pins. My engine does not burn oil. It has 134k miles. But it does have some minor oil leaks. All in all, If I find out that it's the wrist pin/s I may end up overhauling the entire engine. But if it is only one or two rod bearings doing the knocking I will more than likely just slip in the new rod bearings and hand-sanding the journals with WD-40 and sand paper, with engine-in-car. I live in very hot climate of our nation and will take-on this project in Nov. or Dec 2020. If I do overhaul the engine I'll try to get some pics. Best of luck to everyone during the 2020 Covid outbreak.

[@carlosr280]

Hey I know it’s little time from this post did you ever find out what was it on your noice

[@Smashachu]

Literally the exact same thing happening to me. I'm at 128k miles and bought it like this, changed a timing chain that was in perfect condition..

[@robinlewis9068]

Chasing that KNOCK right now on 2004 Explorer 4.0. replaced the front timing chain and installed new lifters, no change. Dropped lower and upper pans. Checked all connecting rod bearings and went ahead and replaced them. The bearings were in great shape for 220,000 miles! BUT while under and examining connecting rods for play i noticed #3 piston had a shiny spot on the bottom rear side of the piston, like it was making contact with the crank shaft. Which it has as there is evidence on the crank shaft of rubbing. So I disconnected the rod from the crank and checked for up and down play, none. Moved rod back and forward for only 1/16 of an inch. But there is no twist play of the rod or wrist pin in the piston. But that is not to say there isn't under load and or compression! But the evidence of contact leads me to suspect i need to replace #3 piston.

[@Vertigoneardeath]

@@carlosr280 I opted for the purchase of a 2003 Crown Victoria Trooper car that was totaled in the rear. The engine and tranny were in tact. Although the tranny does not fit the GT, I went ahead and rebuilt the tranny here at a local shop. Both the trooper engine and tranny are in the GT as of today, Valentines Day 2023. The engine cranks but does not start. I am troubleshooting as to why. The GT engine did start when removed. The Trooper engine was in fine working order when it was delivered to my home. This said, I have some work to do on the GT. Thank you for your interest.

[@thesetruths1404]

Howdy. I have a new-to-me 1998 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, automatic, 3.3L VG33E 4th VIN digit "A" motor, made 10/1997. It has one or more bad piston wrist pins, and a confirmed bad crankshaft due to excessive bearing failures from oil loss. Does anyone know if the pistons in a 1996-2004 Pathfinders, QX4, Frontier, or Xterras can be removed and reinstalled through the bottom of the motor (oil pan), with the motor still installed? I also have a bad crank so I have to have it removed and machined too. The rest of the motor is clean, no oil burning, and low miles (165,000). I hate to swap it for an unknown possible problem motor if I can do it this way instead. I haven't been able to find anyone online who has accomplished this, but maybe it's not possible due to clearance or whatever. Do ya know, or take a guess, if ya been under one of these models with the oil pan off and crank out? Thanks much!

[@homerward8203]

My brothers 98 f150 4.6 4x4 with 98k started knocking always kept oil changed never drove it crazy only time in 4 wheel was pulling something around the yard or getting a little stuck turning around or going down dirt road. But it's looking like maybe the wrist pin then change piston rings ,rod and bearings. Ok

[@171apples171]

Pull main and rod bearing caps, pull that rod and piston out of that cylinder and stick a new rod and piston back in. Re-install crankshaft, floor it till the valves float lol

[@ironboundauctionsseminole]

reinstall the crankshaft?

[@171apples171]

@@ironboundauctionsseminole unless you can sneak the piston and rod past the crank... I think the crank would have to come out

[@jessemitchell4228]

@@171apples171 Lol There is a reason they come out the head side jack ass

[@centraltexasfoxbodies]

Can't pull the piston out the bottom, doesn't fir

[@calicojackrackham9233]

@@centraltexasfoxbodies The head needs to come off. Pull the piston out the top. Easy peasy.

[@misterkota1252]

I just pulled the bottom end of my dodge 4.7 and found the same thing. Excessive play in the wrist pin yet the rod bearings are totally pristine. Do I just live with it?

[@quickcalsgarage4782]

If you want to keep driving it I would fix at least that one cylinder.

[@billsixx]

Sure, if you want the rod punched through your block.

[@garyr7027]

I can say on Ford's, I've known guys who drove them for years with pins knocking. If they quite down completely or close too it after the engine gets warm they'll go for a long time with proper maintenance. The key is, does it quit after the motor gets warmed up?... if not then it should be fixed. Most people don't even realize a pin is knocking until it gets bad enough, by that time they've been running them for a long time and not know it. Easily to mistake a worn pin bushing for something else, so people just keep driving it around until it gets so bad they can't stand it and be forced to fix it.

[@joshuap7501]

Im pretty sure mine is this same issue but once its at running temp its quiet as a church mouse

[@SLOADING6]

same my 99 f150 does that 5.4L

[@shanejones578]

05 4.7 Dakota does it. Could be lifter chatter, it’s piston slap, lifter chatter, or wrist pins. Nice and quiet at operating temp tries to stall cold misfires like hell sometimes.

[@whiters1992]

I have a 2004 explorer 4.6. It started making a knocking noise. Parked it. Not exactly sure where the noise is coming from. Power still seems good. No weird noise from exhaust just the knock from up front. My guess was a spun bearing. Planning to pull and rebuild.

[@Clamjammer]

Did you pull that engine out yet? Any updates? Mine is knocking too. My grand marquis had less than 50k on it but the last owner was a fuckin moron and put dollar store oil in the engine

[@whiters1992]

@@Clamjammer No not sure if I will bought another SUV and it's parked.

[@joshuap7501]

There are so many things to make this noise on fords depending wich motor you have 2 or 3v

[@josearellano3268]

@@joshuap7501 I found out the hard way. After two years of that knocking noise, piston #1 blew out n locked up engine, bye bye f150. Sold it for 1000 bucks two weeks ago..😔

[@joshuap7501]

@@josearellano3268 that sucks and ive heard it many many times. Im gonna pop the valve covers off this winter if it goes any deeper than that itll do the same

[@stephen6945]

Hello, were you able to fix this without taking off the heads?

[@quickcalsgarage4782]

Nope. Read Steven G's reply right before yours Sums it up pretty well.

[@garyr7027]

Not possible to do this type of repair without removing the heads... no way.

[@daredevildare3641]

@@garyr7027you could drop the crank and do it but it would be more work and way more aggravating than just pulling the head

[@josearellano3268]

You still got this truck.??

[@quickcalsgarage4782]

Yes I do. I did an inframe rebuild.

[@josearellano3268]

@@quickcalsgarage4782 wow. Mine was an 2004 f150 with 4.6l2v but I had a piston slap.. blew out piston #1. Ended up selling the truck two weeks ago 😂😂..

[@quickcalsgarage4782]

@@josearellano3268 Ya I seen your video. I got lucky and mine wasn't that bad. I changed #3 piston, rod, wrist pin, all the rings, and all the rod bearings. The bearing looked good but I changed them any way. I had previously done the timing chains chasing the noise. I thought sure I fixed it. I was shocked when I started it up and could now here the wrist pin noise since the timing chain noise was gone,,,lol. Oh well.

[@Pneumamechanical]

@@quickcalsgarage4782 I just did timing chains/guides/tensioners on a truck at work here in the fleet. It was slapping loud and drivers side chain guide was broken, I thought I had it fixed, but it's now making a noise like yours, I'll check the followers and lash adjusters next. So you can get the oil pan off in frame? I'm working on a 2wd. Thanks for the video

[@enrriqueherazo5490]

I’m dealing with the same noise I just took my oil pan off last night..

[@quickcalsgarage4782]

What did you find?

[@enrriqueherazo5490]

Quick Cal's Garage , I found nothing wrong in the oil pan oil clean no metal, no loose bolts, main bearings & connecting rods are good, pistons wiggle but very slightly apparently a normal condition. I put new oil in with gasket fired it up, the knock at idle game back slowly... I used the hose to the method to locate and isolate sounds better, its coming from the torque converter!!

[@xpresslock-outservice2266]

Me2

[@enrriqueherazo5490]

Turns out it was a broken flywheel!!!

[@Pneumamechanical]

@@enrriqueherazo5490 can you get the pan off in the truck, or do you have to lift the engine?

[@joshcates6987]

What year model

[@quickcalsgarage4782]

03

[@fer.a5262]

Did this cause loss of power?

[@dwaynegray2593]

If you’re experiencing noise and loss of power, you may want to look at the catalytic converters. They have been known to come apart and stop up the exhaust which will cause loss of power and noise.

[@SenorLunche]

My 02 f150 did the same thing. Parked it and bought a Toyota