Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Knocking Noise Fix

[@bigwilly7654]

Almost 8 years later and your knowledge and expertise is still educating and helping thousands of DIYers brave enough to take the plunge. My issue other than over 300,000 miles and ready for a full timing job is a bad lash adjuster on Bank 2. Thank you Brian and please recharge as needed to keep us 3valvers up and running..

[@ShelleyYbarra]

Everyone comments on how thorough these videos are as the thing they appreciate most, and that is very true... BUT what has helped me the most is the fact that these videos ACTUALLY show you or let you hear the issue. This video saved me hours of headache, by actually having the noise the engine makes when having this issue. It's the exact noise mine is making and it is the issue I've been having. So I really appreciate the addition of such steps that others miss. As well as how knowledgeable you are.

[@chadmoyer1453]

I thank God for him tbh. Very much I do. God bless you Mr. Ford Tech. Lol. Don't know ur name brother.

[@Mike-lp1ij]

Popping out or reinserting the CAM Followers is a real pain for cylinder 8. The gadget spring compression tool and trying to pry them back in is nearly impossible. Struggled with it for several hours. Then I asked my son for an idea. Genius - He recommended loosening the CAM Caps a little. Worked great!!! Tightened the CAM Caps back down. And this only took a few minutes.

[@TekMan05]

Yeah I just went through this on my 3v Stang. That tool is virtually useless on cylinder 8 partially because of the brake booster and master cylinder being in the way. I ended up doing the exact same thing. Worked great and spun the engine over afterwards to double check everything before buttoning the cover back on.

[@anthonybrown3481]

This guy has saved me so much money over the years.

[@The305Garage]

I've seen plenty of auto service related video's. Nobody is as through, detailed and patient as you. You really know your stuff. Keep up the great work!!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+AutoManiac123 Hey thanks I try.

[@jasonrutherford1722]

He is the man the world needs more craftsmen like him he is awesome

[@adamalloway9761]

Brian, i had 2 different noises. First was bad tensioner i changed that..then i could here the other clicking..teuck kinda sounded like a diesel and wanted to stall when i went to press gas..im about to change the phasers and vcts..question is my oil pressure started dropping out as well..could that be caused by phasers and vcts..also ive already replaced oil pressure switch. Thx in advance buddy

[@corrinaseager6587]

My f150 is poping when giving gas and no low power I got the timing chain done and new vat solenoid. Could you give me a idea what it would be

[@benjaminschutz727]

Maybe you should take a look at my 2004 heritage f150, I got a code for low fuel trims, tried a smoke test checked the gasket and looked brand fricken new, I also have a oil leak at the oil pan gasket, my reverse gear has a delay, and I have a ticking at the drive thru, also my suspension is squeaky (least of my concerns atm) what part of the US do you live? Was planning a full overhaul as I just bought the truck for 💸 want to restore before I start considering adding a m112 supercharger on the v6

[@petepembroke7165]

I did it. I changed out the phasers. I want to thank you for the video. I don't know that I could have done it without it. it gave me piece of mind and I rewatched various sections as I moved through the job. Many thanks for taking the time to make your videos. My 05 F150 now sounds great. Makes me feel better. It was getting to the point it sounded like gravel was in the engine. I will say that the right valve cover removal was a bear. I removed the a/c collector mount and bent the tubing slightly. Had my pal pull on it while I wiggled the cover out. Used gasket sealer to hold new gaskets in the covers when I reinstalled. Also, I had to remove the right wheel well cover to access the transmission tube bolt. That is a good tip. I took my time. Went slow. But again, thanks to your video, all went well.

[@danielfonseca4642]

I am retired Tech more on GM side and this video is as thorough and patient as you can get.. great job Buddy hope this helps a lot of people keep up the great work..

[@carlovincetti4538]

I just came to get an idea of what to tell a customer. i like the fact that you dont talk to much about things unnecessary. This is vital to following someone's instructions. Yours seem much easier to follow than some others ty Alth0ough I i'm not actually following them for any repair.

[@henrymechanic]

Thank you for explaining this whole process in a manor that is useful. It's always a pleasure to meet someone in our trade that can quickly walk through a repair like this. Not just quick, but thorough too! Relevant information for a mechanics first time replacing cam adjusters on this engine. FYI to any who read what I said here. I would not recommend a first time mechanic try to perform this task. Thanks again my friend.

[@nicholasali2182]

JUST FOUND THE CHANNEL CUS MY SON GRABBED A 04 FX4❤ BRILLIANT BRIAN❤ HOPEFULLY WE DON'T HAVE THESE ISSUES, BUT WITH THIS MAN RIGHT HERE, HAVING THIS KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERTISE WILL HELP US A GREAT DEAL.

[@davidlatino6163]

Like a surgeon, I wish I lived closer to you guys.

[@stevefazekas5875]

This was my first time doing this kind of engine work, and "so far" it has been a success. Please read more to hear about my experience with this. (my one issue with the directions). Per the video and the Ford instructions, I had the crank at 12:00, and the (6) rollers should be removable - yet #8 exhaust lobe needed to be at base circle. Rotating the crank is OK to do for base circle, yet bring this back to 12:00 with proper lobe positioning when that is complete. TWO full rotations of the crank = ONE full rotation of the cam. --- my initial comment --- The lobe on #8 is not technically applying pressure on the roller follower (to my knowledge) but it is in the down/right position when I'm trying to use the spring tool to get it out. Seems to be a problem. I'm having a hell of a time getting that #8 exhaust roller follower out (after I just did #5 intakes which was not much of an issue in comparison). I have not done the passenger side yet. I had to keep coming back to the video and the service instructions that came with the Ford OEM cam phasers to see what seems to be the issue with where I have the cam in position. I carefully documented everything so far including setting the crank at 12:00, and the spring compressor tool seems to have issues clearing enough space to bring the #8 follower out. I'll keep trying and report back on my progress but this specific issue has been frustrating... Also, I'd advise having a breaker bar to hold onto the crank in place when you loosen the cam phaser bolts. I also removed my front bumper's air dam to better access the crank from below the truck when finding the timing slot / notch. It's not easy.

[@stevefazekas5875]

I reviewed the videos multiple times to make sure I was removing and replacing the roller followers correctly - ie, not dropping a valve - my biggest concern. Sometimes the positioning of the spring compression tool needs to be off to the side, so the follower can be positioned correctly over the valve and lash adjuster. I ALSO used and highly recommend that if you do this job, you have the magnet tool. I used a flexible/spring wound style magnet. It saved a lot of time. Whichever roller follower you need to remove/replace, it is best to rotate the crank so the cam lobe is at base circle (lobe end facing up) if you're having clearance issues. This will be a lot easier than dropping a valve when you can't reach far enough. Duly noted, I only replaced the (6) roller followers with the new upgraded one with the small hole. I had 6 more I was going to do since I had bought a bunch in case I found any that had wear and tear issues but did not find any that were suspected to be failing. When I was tightening down my cam phasers, I noticed one of my chain's (RH - passenger side) top guide was missing as I looked down in the gap where it should be - plus the chain was verifiably loose. I may have broke that guide with the cheese block during the cam phaser change, but I can't be sure. I did start the engine with the loose chain to check my work and move the truck forward in the parking spot, but now I have a timing job to work on next. Apparently, before starting working on cam phasers, it's best to pull the valve covers and check to make sure the chains are tight. This was something I'd know to do for future projects... The more often you pull the valve covers, the better and faster you become at pulling and putting them back on. If you're timid at this kind of work, at least pull the covers and get that practice in before anything else. I did this a few times in the late fall to time myself for when I'd have a full day to do this job in the spring/summer. There are certain parts to remove that will frustrate you, however once you get past those, it will seem like an easier job. NOTES: Using my phone camera to check positioning of the spring compression tool before tightening down was the best thing for checking things over. It takes longer, but the tool is a bit clumsy, but once positioned well, it works absolutely correctly. Sometimes the foot of the tool would rest on another part and prevent the compression. Your finger on the valve or roller while compressing is super important, not only for the keepers, but so you can tell it is actually compressing.

[@stevefazekas5875]

THIS IS MY LAST POST - I HAVE THE TIMING JOB FINISHED AND IT'S RUNNING GREAT NOW... I finished my timing job today (my 2010 F-150 runs fine now - logged 16+ miles so far) based on your videos... one thing to also note for those who may have issues putting the steering pump pulley back on. You may need to get a reemer to re-tap the shaft of the pump with 8mm x 1.25 thread. I practically ruined an installer bolt then had to re-tap and use the die on the kit to fix the threads. The issue: way too much rust in there, and it needed the threads to be fixed. Also, when replacing the oil pump with a Melling M360HV, the pan did not need to be dropped, but you'll need a Craftsman 8mm gear wrench and a thin wire to use as a keeper to prevent losing the bolt if it slips. This is a real pain in the ass, don't get me wrong. I was going to drop the pan a little, and the transmission lines are in the way, so I opted to use the wire approach. The crank bolt needed to be removed using a helper with a breaker bar I made from a pinion yoke tool to keep the harmonic balancer in place while I torqued it loose. The balancer did not have anything I could attach a tool to prevent it from turning with as much torque the bolt had on it. Every bit of the way, my truck was fighting me and trying to get junked. Both of my static guides - the black ones - were shattered, and one of the bolts that goes through the oil pump had broken in the block by about 1/2 inch. Had a steady hand to use a reverse / left handed drill bit to remove the broken piece. The VCT Solenoids were definitely suspect as part of my earlier issues - one screen was broken, too. The Phasers actually looked fine based on the trouble shooting tech info provided with the OEM phaser replacements. The roller followers all looked pretty good, but I replaced 6 of them (with the new design) per the phaser install. I was going to go back and replace 6 others but decided not to. After it was all done, I was going to replace the water pump and do a coolant flush. That thing was on there so tight and probably fused to the block so I just scrapped the idea and added new coolant. So, in all, it took me a while to get through all of this. My dad came and helped me two days for the oil pump and doing the chains. I spent some time using gasoline to clean up the baked on oil that was on the timing cover and valve covers. My last day, I just spent buttoning everything back up and running it through the tests. Make sure you have the air flow sensor re-attached and the whole air flow system hooked up when you start up. Everything else was hooked up properly, but sometimes you just miss a connection...

[@FoxFreak]

Dude - Your videos are spot on!!! And I agree with others....You're a real Ford tech and you actually makes sense. Thorough, concise, and detailed; well done. As a fleet tech, w/all Fords, I can tell you are legit!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

FoxFreak Wow thanks!

[@cooperparts]

I have replaced cam phasers on a few and some of them said as long as it runs I would use 15-40 oil and I have a few with over 100k after the phasers started making noise no problem. I want to thank you for helping me with lean conditions on 5.4 3v missing rocker on intake never would of looked for that thanks your videos are the best

[@garrettm7993]

My mother has a 2010 Expedition with 115k miles on it and it still runs quiet! It's the first vehicle she's kept over 40k miles and several years longer then normal too. It's been a great SUV so far, I'll definitely keep a watch on the cam phasers!

[@mcgavin098]

Are you always using full synthetic oil? I accidentally switched to synth blend and I've been having issues with my 145,000 miles Lincoln.

[@roberthiebert6328]

Hi Brian, My son in law has a new to him 2004 F-150 Lariet 4x4 5.4L with ~190,000KM (~120,000mi) showing on the odometer. It appears to have had reasonably good maintenance and runs well with no abnormal engine noises, but it is throwing a P0011 DTC. We've been doing a lot of research on the subject, especially from your videos to try and educate ourselves as to what the problem could be. The previous owner told us that the cam phasers were replaced with aftermarket units a few years ago. We reasoned that the most probable cause was either the VCT solenoid, or the phaser itself. The solenoid coil resistance was 8.5 ohms, which seemed reasonable. We did a data log under real world road conditions with his scan tool and it showed that when the cams should be retarded both were being commanded by the PCM, but the commanded PWMs were different, which makes sense considering the code. The error on the left bank was normal and the left cam was being retarded. The error on the right bank was high and the cam was not being retarded at all at. We swapped the cam sensors to see if the problem would follow the sensor, but it did not, which lead us to believe the problem was either a stuck or faulty solenoid, or a stuck phaser. We purchased a new OEM solenoid and seal from our local Ford dealer and installed it. No change. So, it looks like it is most likely the phaser, but we want to be as sure as we can that this is in fact the problem before we commit to doing a complete timing set with OEM parts. In all our research we haven't run across a situation where a phaser has stuck in the fully advanced position with out resulting is some engine noise. We do have an exhaust leak on that bank which we will have to address, but we can't hear anything that seems to be internal, either under no load or under load. Have you had an experience like this, or can you offer some suggestions as to what else we can check?

[@crayonbandit]

Your videos are changing my life!!! I've been trying to fix up my 99' E150 van and your information has been priceless to me. I used to open up my hood and be too damn chicken to touch anything... but the way you explain things and identify different components has truly helped me familiarize myself with my engine. You demystify procedures that seem shrouded in secrecy and give me the courage to do attempt things I never thought I could. I bought the Ford workshop manual for my van about a month ago and have been going in on repairs. Just wanted to let you know that you really inspired me and please do some more 5.4L V8 tutorials :)

[@adamwalleman1916]

Thanks for all of the in depth diagnosing. You’ve helped me many times. This one is one that I think I will have repaired by my mechanic. I really enjoyed your sign off, “and that’s all there is!” It’s equivalent to me walking a lay person through a Fire engine pumper explaining about friction loss, length of hose and how many lines a particular house fire will need for extinguishment. Keep up the videos

[@rodneylove8027]

Thank you bro! Followed the instructions as you laid them out. Swapped the defective rocker arm with relative ease. Saved me a trip to the mechanic. Again, thank you!

[@OmarZaldivar]

dude!!! info from 10 yers ago and still is so helpful...you saved me lots of money over this past 6 years.

[@pamelaburrous3765]

I bought a piece of trim moulding and a threaded rod and nut at Lowes for about $6. I cut down the wood just small enough to fit past the phaser and it worked like a charm. My 2004 F150 with 193,000 miles diesel sounding 5.4 is silent and running great!! I followed your procedure with no problems. Thank You for the help

[@tonymemory2279]

make a video of that.

[@chrisjory8595]

Def make video of that lol

[@johnkamarauskas8787]

Thank You for all your direction to those who need your assistance and direction, Your direction is far better than thatI have received from some Ford garages. Thank You

[@lgnlint]

This noise has been pissing me off for so long in my F150, thanks for finally showing what is causing it. I've had a handful of things done that never solved it.

[@junkyardchronicles1289]

Did you fix it?

[@thuglivintv824]

Did you fix it?

[@ericholderrieth8009]

Did you fix it?

[@David-10644]

My 2005 f150 5.4 is making exact same noise. Threw code for phasers so I'm about to attempt the repair myself, your video has helped me understand. Very detailed, thanks a lot

[@davidmartin2231]

Thank you for posting this video. Truly is a step by step. Alot of guys just say do this and do that. But won't take their time to show the novice. Again thanks.

[@gocmtb]

From engine noise to final product. I have had my Ford expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4 2003 as my most reliable vehicle. My 6.0 diesel f450 is down just about every month so Old reliable is always there for me. The vehicle is not worth anything but I've kept this one in mint condition and was going to pass it on to my daughter. Tonight for the first time I hear what sounds like a rod knock. My first thought was all this work to keep his vehicle looking incredible and now it went from Old reliable to junkyard. I've never worked the inside of a motor I have tinkered on the outside plenty. I put the stethoscope on the housing that is holding either the injectors or spark plugs not quite sure which one of the two but it sounded like the noise was going to come out of there. When you said mainly on the right side that's when I realized you're showing exactly what I need. I'm not sure if the noise I heard is exactly what you mentioned but it is on the right side is in it it is in the front and with the stethoscope it is really loud. This video is so thorough that I might take on the job myself as a learning experience. I don't think I would have it done as smooth as this is. There may be a lot of bleeding knuckles a lot of screaming walking away for the night and hope that the F-450 doesn't break again. I'm having major transmission issues with that one. Thank you for putting a very good video out there. Most video tell you it was making a knocking noise, already have the car apart and try to explain the noise instead of letting it play on video. I'm not a mechanics so hearing the noise is everything to any DIY jobs.

[@bpage6636]

You are the man. To bad you don’t live near me because you would be my mechanic for life.

[@miked19831988]

I just had mine done @103k miles, 08 expedition. Was making noise every since I bought it with 72k miles. Who knows how long it was doing it before me. Dealer did not want to fix prior to deal so the gave me an ext. warranty instead. In hind site I'm glad we went this route because they would have fixed nothing more that what absolutely needed it. So I would have been doing it over again. Sounded like a rod knock. Just driver had bad phaser. Chain was so loose it's a wonder it did not jump time. Did phasers both sides, chains both sides, tensioners both sides, guides both sides , oil pump , water pump and belt. Some of the work was "just because" it was open to do it and not have to tear it back down later .... HOPEFULLY thank god one side was covered by ext warranty. Still cost me $1k vs $4k which in my opinion would have been a new motor if I would not of had warranty. I have gotten good use of the warranty to. Lots of money saved. I guess I'm kinda disappointed on the other hand of quality of Ford and all the expensive repairs needed. Thanks for the great videos you make sir!!!! Mike Tiffin ohio

[@robertarata1618]

You are truly a master of this trade! Thank you very much for explaining this procedure in such detail for anyone to understand. I have had my first experience with the 2 piece plugs and now the cam phasers on the same truck.

[@CARRJ142]

Great! Thanks, 7.8 years & You are still going strong 💪

[@blackhatter011]

I would like to thank you for posting all of these videos, they are very informative. Keep up the good work.

[@leroijr407]

Great video my man. Pushing 300k on my 08 navigator. It started knocking loud, like very loud and misfiring alot. Will be doing the phasers now.

[@wrifraff]

Nice video. Definitely appreciate a visual guide. I read the service procedure and couldn't understand why you're suppose to remove the roller followers but I get it now. Diving into my dad's 06 F250 tomorrow to do phasers, chains, guides and tensioners. Should be fun!

[@amtpdb1]

Thanks for this video. I have a lifter making noise on the passenger side and was afraid to open it up. The manual says to open up the ac system and on post said that is not necessary so that was good. You show that the cam is free after the 3 rockers are out so that takes away the fear of taking the cam out to get to the lifters. I was afraid there would be a load on the rockers and distort the cam when taking on and off the cam bearing supports. Then there was the phaser tool they wanted you to buy to make sure you did not turn the phaser when torquing it down. You again show that that is not a problem. Looks like I might try it. Thanks again for the video.

[@JamesSmith-xs7sr]

I heard a viper type snake hissing while you rotated the crank pulley! Please be careful/mindful of the engine bay surroundings. A friend of mine got tagged by a inland Taipan snake (over in Australia) while doing the same. He was shut down for 3 months recovering. Know your surroundings!

[@flyboy2610]

Brian, you make it look so easy! I'm getting an '05 Expedition with 160,000 on the clock next week. I may be doing this job sometime.

[@krisn8820]

The 4.6l 2v has been around since the early 90's. It has been a damn good engine. The 3v 4.6 and 5.4 seem to have had their issues.

[@oliverdelgado6952]

Stay away from 5.4 3v. Unless you absolutely know it's had frequent oil changes .

[@timdixon9224]

You are best to use the Motorcraft oil and filter always on these engines

[@madebydade305ify]

Was there 3v in the 2003 f150?

[@lordvader4628]

I would like to thank you for the service you provide. I believe that knowledge should be free. After watching your video on the Escape Hybrid electric vacuum pump, I was able to check the pump and the vacuum check valves. I supply power and ground with my Power Probe to verify the pump works. I used a vacuum pump, like the one you have, and determined that the valve sometimes worked, but sometimes didn't. I ordered the assembly as you can't buy just the valve (according to dealer). I replaced its and now they brakes work perfectly. Thank you, again, for what your do!

[@FBobby]

So am I correct in assuming that the noise IM hearing on the 5.4 I have at work that makes it sound like a diesel are the Cam Phasers themselves?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

FBobby Yes

[@FBobby]

FordTechMakuloco Good to know. Thanks for the reply.

[@amoncopeland6747]

Yea. Or loose plug.

[@SDS2405]

Just performed this today on my 2010 4.6 stx 4x4 with 130xxx miles. Thought maybe it was a rocker or a lifter but come to find out it was the phaser because after the oil warmed up and thinned out you could hear knocking noise. No more knocking. The camshaft did turn while I was putting in the new phaser but thank goodness I marked it. Grab some vise grips and turned it back. Now I just got to figure out why the truck almost has a shutter while driving. Local transmission shop said wasn't the transmission. Put on a new transmission mount and I still have a problem. Wondering if it needs a whole new timing chain now. Thinking about just driving to your shop @fordtechmakuloco. Thanks for all the help so far 👍

[@benshepherd1869]

what happened to the ol' 300 inline 6. this 5.4 is way to complicated..... it was still ticking and knocking after u were done. I have a 2004 5.4 and that motor sounds like it's falling apart. also a 96 z71 that u can't hear run and it gets better mpg..... not thrilled with my f150

[@gilbertopadilla3611]

ben shepherd At 230k and a hard life, my 4.9 i6 still purrs like a kitten.

[@Miamiboi305]

Why do you have to pull those roller followers no other video u've seen has done this

[@coypatton3160]

Emissions happened to the inline 300 6!

[@benricher9717]

@@Miamiboi305 Its due to having the cam in the neutral position. if you dont do this, the cam will want to spin due to the spring tension on the cam lobe. by relieving hte pressure on these lobes, the cam no longer wants to spring forward or reverse causing in accurate time marks.

[@jeffanderson7256]

I love the 300 6 but it’s only upside is it lasts, and oh boy does it last you could drive those fucking gutless turds 24/7 for a decade I bet

[@Dominater000]

Ive been trying to find a video that shows where that stupid timing mark is all day smh. A decade ago this gem just saved me from blowing my car up lmao

[@metersocket00]

My Ford F-150 makes the same noise. Will any damage occur if it is not fixed? I'm not too convinced on shelling out a couple thousand to just fix a noise.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

metersocket00 No for this noise no.

[@KollynJ]

FordTechMakuloco what noise is it that is more dangerous?

[@markbrandon7756]

Excellent as ALWAYS ! Beyond the perfect technical , I must comment on another most important ability which few people posses and display…. YOUR. SPEAKING is Clear and Level (not monotone) never sounding amped up just clear concise and emphasizing THE POINTS you make Not emphasizing your voice or it’s cadence. This is how YOU Master getting every viewer to listen to every word and see every point. This is called YOU HAVE Everyone's full attention and they don’t even realize it. There was an addvertisement “When E.F Huttin SPEAKS people listen! When FTMuck….. speaks people listen !! Great Work on your videos for over 10 years FTM your are a professional not just a technician .

[@gayinsults8836]

Mines been ticking since I bought it, doesn’t bother me. I just recently got a cat back exhaust and don’t even hear it anymore

[@amoncopeland6747]

Yea that was me. It will go limp one day. Its like you only have 2 cylinders when it gets stuck in retard. I did just phasers and solenoids. Runs better than any truck I have ever owned now.

[@juannavarro8659]

.

[@mikeroland9751]

@@amoncopeland6747 Question: I just got a 2004 F150. I drove it from Arizona to California. Ran great. Now, I have code P0174 "System Too Lean (Bank 2) and I can not find any vacuum leak anywhere...God knows I've tried. I also have P0022 "Intake Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced" (Bank 2) The question is: Could the CAM POSITIONER be the reason Bank 2 is registering Too Lean since it's over advanced or is it over advanced because it's trying to compensate for too lean?

[@amoncopeland6747]

@@mikeroland9751 bro.. Thats a good question. My initial answer would be no. You would have experienced some other problems. . do you have cold air intake or anything like that?

[@amoncopeland6747]

@@mikeroland9751 the camshaft advance could be more worrisome. I bet your lean is a broken injector loose connection on injector(lectrical) or a dirty map sense? Just my thoughts. Cam just opens and closes valves. (Or doesn't when broke) i would be looking at all air sensors and look into fuel module and stuff. Any rain there?

[@destroygaryfunky7053]

How many guys are actually capable of making this repair even with this great video??

[@LakesideUso]

As thorough and detailed as you were, I still got lost haha. Guess I'll just have to rewatch the video a few times. Thnx for the info tho!

[@HimmelChef]

Dude your videos have saved me tons! Much appreciated!! Keep them up! My fx4 purrs.

[@tlalexander3]

Glad you had the video. I thought mine had this problem, but it actually sounds like your end result. I can hear the difference now since the first has a harder knocking sound and the end has a softer sound.

[@anthonycriscione4508]

Are you in Georgia? I would like you to fix my truck

[@xraydelta100]

I don't even have these engines, but I watched this terrific video all the way through. You make excellent videos on repair. Thank you.

[@mrnewguibj]

i have watched some videos of the people removing the rockers and some do NOT remove the rockers? is it completely necessary to remove the 3 rockers on each side? thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I would if its your first time but I have an updated video just released.

[@AlanDike]

@@FordTechMakuloco I think I saw your updated video, and it says only on the left hand side? Why doesn't it work right hand too?

[@kevgsp]

Great video thanks. Listening to the truck run after the job seems a slight ticking/tapping is still there. With my 5.4 I though I had possible roller follower & lash adjuster issues with a similar sound constant at all temps and rpm, now I’m really not sure.

[@thuglivintv824]

My thoughts too, sounds the same

[@boosted2.4_sky]

Great job...I believe im having this knock issue with my Ecotec with VVT...i had lash adjusters that were ticking when i replaced those i noticed my cam phasers knocking...Figured id c9me and see how its done on a Ford...pretty much the same...Thanks for your help!

[@hawaiianf1504]

Still, an awesome video 5 years after you made the video. Simply awesome !!

[@erictownsend8711]

Very detailed, you make it feel like even i can do the fix NOT! Thanks a million for sharing, you are fantastic.

[@kevinnewcome9292]

Would you change phasers on an engine with over 200,000 miles? Or rather change all the timing components?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Always all.

[@kaceesavage]

You are always helping me out man, thanks so much!!!

[@leannsanchez9716]

Thank you! This video, along with many others you've done, has helped me keep my Expedition running and taught me a lot about working on cars! You're the best!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Leann Sanchez Nice

[@yiosmukantagara]

Wow, awesome vid. My brother asked me to do this for him. I was hesitant until I saw this! Thanks!

[@benahrens5163]

Thanks for all your awesome information. I worked as a Ford Tec for 4 1/2 years but when the 5.4 3valve came out I left got mine done this weekend. It seems to run good because I started with all 8 coils and plugs all Motor Craft on my late build 08 F150. But your discription of the noise was exactly what mine was doing. I got the truck for $260.00 neeed a transmission that's my line of work. 👍🏻👊🏻💥🤘🏻😎💯

[@greenbaysixxstring5008]

Some ford tech! You could even diagnose your own problem.

[@bummallery748]

whats your take on the livernous lockout kit for phasers , does it hurt or help ?

[@alexr6676]

Henry Ford Hello Henry did you get an answer to your question about the locking phacers?

[@luckyone9473]

As a certified 5 Star, triple OG Ford Master Tech I do not recommend them.

[@arbinnunez109]

This guy is the king and master 💪 💪 💪

[@johnathangrogg3271]

Noise speeds up with more rev, and but doesn't seem as bad if it is at around 800-900 rpm

[@robinrhodes8472]

Seriously, your walkthroughs and explanations are done very well.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Robin Rhodes Thank you and they are only getting better now being away from the dealer.

[@johnbasedow8973]

This guy has the face of someone who’s gonna upset the crap outta you

[@jcortes3930]

😂

[@jeanvi52]

You have the face that makes me wanna beat your sorry ass down in the street

[@hamsandwich9311]

That's because he's pointing out problems with your sorry ass 5.4 motor.

[@dreece2000]

Just did a complete timing job. Replaced every piece with oem parts. Put the hv oil pump. No metal in pan. Motor clean. Timing guides were destroyed. Now while it's running if you snap the throttle the engine sounds like it's about to come all to pieces. Watching the cams on data stream the phasers are all over the place. Is there anything I can check before I deem it needing a engine. Thanks pal I've learned a lot from your videos

[@KaliBlaz]

since you are the only reliable ford guy on KZbin, what are the odds to find a piece of metal Inside the Intake manifold, when I removed the intake to replace the gaskets while cleaning the intake I noticed that something was loose inside so when I shook it upside down a piece of metal fell down and it looks like what I can describe as an edge of a broken valve, could that have been sucked from the engine into the manifold? also if this is the case is there a way I can replace the valve without taking the head off, or I am I looking at buying a new engine? thanks a million

[@FordTechMakuloco]

certified30 If the edge of the valve was cracked off it would have a misfire on that cylinder it must have come from before the intake. I would reassemble and retest. Was this the reason you pulled the intake in the first place?

[@KaliBlaz]

FordTechMakuloco initially I had a ticking noise, I thought it was the cam phasers dying but after I changed the spark plugs that noise went away, and recently I had P0174 code and the truck was running very rough and shakes a lot so I decided to change the intake and throttle body gasket..etc to eliminate the vacuum leak probably, but when I pulled the intake I noticed that there was something loose inside it, it was a piece of metal that looks like a valve edge, I am just hoping it accidently fell in there when the throttle body was being serviced by the previous owner. at the same time I am asking my self if it is possible that the intake have sucked it in from the engine!!

[@hectorcaballero3904]

i had the same problem , but what haoppened is , someone else replaced the engine and dind t get out the pieces of valve from the plastic plenum, if your engine runs good, the metal piece is from a previous repair, all you have to do is take the plenum, if you have a misfire, check your compression and obviously the cylinder with low compression is the one that that piece of valve belongs to.

[@elwoodgilbert7340]

certified30

[@mikehasanen2534]

Wow awesome video. Thanks. I have 08 expedition, it does the diesel at drive thru’s etc. It also sounds like you can hear the lifters ticking when it isn’t doing it. Could something else be going on or is that common to hear. Mechanic said he thinks something might be going on with cam shaft and not the phasers. Not sure if I should take on this job or not.

[@cb7pwn]

amazing videos, thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge, can really save the average joe a lot of time and money and from being screwed over by some shop... really really appreciated

[@DsrtRat08]

I bought a 2004 F150 5.4 a few months ago, not knowing the story with the 3v motors. Anyway it wasn't until after I had signed on the dotted line and taken the truck home that I began to hear all the noises of this engine. This is the first Triton engine I have owned and am used to quieter and older engines. My last truck was a 92 F150 with a 302 and had a Durango with a 360 before that. I bought this truck with about 110,000 miles on it. As I began to do general maintenance on the truck I realized that whoever had it before me kind of neglected it: original fuel filer, transmission filer and spark plugs. In the few months since I have owned this truck the following has been replaced: Cam phasers, timing chains, tensioners, guides, crankshaft seal, VCT Solenoids, and spark plugs. I took a couple videos of the truck, one before any work was done and the second after all of this had been replaced. There is an obvious difference in sound but since this is my first Triton and an overall noisy engine to begin with, is the second clip what these engines normally sound like or is it due for follows and lash adjusters as well? Thanks for any advice or comments. 2004 F150 2004 F150

[@FordTechMakuloco]

From what I could hear yes this sounds normal. They make more noise because of the valvetrain setup and loud injectors. When the 5.4l 3v came out I always said it sounds like a quiet diesel they all do it.

[@DsrtRat08]

FordTechMakuloco Thank you for the reply it is greatly appreciated.

[@BoardwalkBullies]

DsrtRat08 Far as I know, they have 100,000 mile tune up intervals, so that seems about normal. Cam phasers tend to make that sound when they go bad. Being that you have a 2004 with a 3V (the 3V heads didn't come out until '05), you have an earlier model that will probably have a few flaws. I have an '07 mountaineer with the 4.6L 3V, and 100,000 miles. Bought it with 74,000. Aside from 4 bad ignition coils and a heater hose, the engine has been flawless. The only noise it makes is a leaky when cold exhaust manifold (as I hear from every explorer/mountaineer with the 3V). However, I ALWAYS run the motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and motorcraft filter every 5K on the dot.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

vendediesel I really appreciate your comment. I do disagree on point that I think spark plugs never last that long if you want the most out of your engine. I've never been satisfied with the performance of a platinum plug for longer than 12k miles. And as for Iridium's, man the extra expense could have saved me a lot of money. I'm getting about 60-70k miles out of those before a cleaning and a regapping of them isn't all that's needed. That's plain amazing, but no 100k that is my friend.

[@mglfranco15]

Hey I have a knocking noise on my 03 expedition 5.4l 2v it does it on every cold start and it gets quieter as it warms up. Any advise on that issue?

[@timdixon9224]

Those don't have the cam phasers in them. I would bet the timing chain guides are broken.

[@zachhall4566]

FordTechMakuloco - what is the difference between the 5.4L 3V Triton found in the 2008 F150s and the 2009 F150s? I'm looking to buy a complete timing kit and save some money (almost 1/3 the price of Ford parts) and I'd like to know if the 2008 kit will fit my 2009 engine. I've noticed the exact same low-frequency knocking noise, more pronounced at a cold start up but especially when I'm next to building. I also hear a louder knocking noise whenever I accelerate and the engine is under a load. I've replaced the plugs, VCT solenoids on both sides and cleaned the throttle body but it's still there. Thank you for your time and the great videos you've posted. I've donated because you've saved me money and I support what you're doing.

[@jaredscoggan9324]

where do you work? I'm sick of the Ford Techs here, I have spent over $3,000 in repairs since January, and today I sat in a parking lot because my entire truck would shake and rattle when RPM's went over 1000 rpm, I have replaced Tensioners, phasers, chains, guides, solenoids, plugs, coils, I'm just about ready to trade it in if I can't get this thing to be more reliable.... 2005 F-150 5.4 w/ 158k miles

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I run my own business now in Chicagoland

[@orlandovega6958]

I feel You! I have an '06 and it rattles when driving at 45mph the stops and starts again at 55. I have a check engine light one and the code is for a misfire. Took it to a shop and the said it might be the camshaft or bad timimy chain. In order to find out i have to drop another grand on it. And I just got the tranny replaced after it gave out, then this starts a couple of weeks later. It's only got 130k miles

[@MMMM-jr5uf]

Orlando Vega me too just fixed the tranny and having the same exact problem you describe were you able to fix it?

[@orlandovega6958]

Mm mm no, it's just been sitting there. No time

[@christophertilp5313]

Hey, folks, don't ignore this issue....when I opened my timing and valve covers (IAW this channels videos; thanks, by the way!), the TTY bolt on my cam phaser was finger tight....the pin had turned sideways, tore up the journal and scored the front of the cam shaft as the phaser walked its way loose....so I had a whole bank not turning, and now possible bent valves in addition to the damage to the cam shaft.

[@mddlclsswrkr8134]

Thanks for the video I was about to pass on a really nice expedition that is presenting the same rough running and noise issue

[@bman1165]

had a 98 f150, at 250 k miles it started making that knocking noise...chased that noise for over a year, at least now i have closer. sold the truck at 360k still making the noise. best damn truck i have ever owned. it had the 4.6

[@alexandermichael3608]

brian swanner 98 had the 2v heads and didn't have phasers. More than likely you had an exhaust manifold that was rusty and cracked. That can make kind of a ticking noise.

[@chrispaikai7843]

Great video. Quick question. I see how you recommend getting the engine in a nutral position and remove the 3 rockers from each side but on other videos I see them remove the phaser without those steps. Is it absolutely necessary? What's the benefits of doing so? Thanks. Keep up the great work.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

chris paikai If the cams are not neutral they cam pop over and you will be out of time then it happens so just take your chances.

[@fernandoguerra9783]

+FordTechMakuloco mine pop over, where should cam lobes be when crank is at TDC??,

[@Chicken_JAC]

@@FordTechMakuloco Good morning Thank you for your very informative and teachable videos ! Do you have good experience or recommend Cloyes cam phasers? ( as OEM's are hard to find) Thank you again sir Alfonso

[@lovablebigt]

Good morning @fortechmakuloco I am about to do this in my truck but i have a question, is it neccesary to take the 6 rollers if I am only going to change the phaser on the right side? Thank you in advance for the helpful video

[@FordTechMakuloco]

no just the three rollers from the side you are working on.

[@Toolaholic7]

This engine is Jasper's #1 selling reman engine,can't keep them on their shelves.The Jasper rep that stops at my father sells at least 5 of them a week.There is a Melling M360 oil pump out there for these with a cast iron backing plate.

[@waden404]

Does that mean Jasper sells the reman with a "fix" to this issue? Im getting ready to pick up a pristine 99, but the engine is toast.

[@jacobaccurso]

“And that’s all there is to changing the phasers on a 5.4 L three valve.” I love you, man. You’re funnier than Nate Bargatze sometimes. 😂

[@amtpdb1]

Do you have a video on the 5.4l 3v lifter replacement on the passenger side? Thanks for all the useful videos.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+amtpdb1 No but lifter replacement is basically the same as what I show in this video with the roller follower removal tips. Once the follower is out of the way the lash adjuster can be removed.

[@amtpdb1]

+FordTechMakuloco Thanks for getting back. I do need to take the cam out to get the adjusters out don't I? Can you get some of them or all of them out with out removing the cam? It would help alot if the cams don't need to be removed. Can you get the valve cover off on the passenger side with out discharging the AC? Some say you can and some say you can't. Great videos and I will be watching all of them as the truck is starting to need repairs! Thanks again I appreciate your videos and responses.

[@magnetstoo]

We replaced the phasors on a 3v and it still had the problem.Cam timing on left side would go crazy when engine was hot and off idle,so computer tried to compensate by adjusting the right cam.We now suspect it was a clogged oil passage in head or block somewhere.Customer said to fix it but it was just a guess on our part.So we sent him to the dealer to confirm,because that is a big expensive gamble.

[@jacksimi]

Mine ticks too, sometimes it goes away after its warmed up. it's done that as long as i can remember

[@HannibalAcrotices]

Has that been years? And is it still running alright?

[@jacksimi]

I’ve had it 7 years now. It has about 270,000kms on it. I bought it used. I just change the oil regularly, I’ve changed the spark plugs twice myself. Other than that it runs great.oh and I did have to change the fuel sending unit, they mount them right by the spare tire underneath the box. The salt here eats the case. But that’s just a plug it in fix and maybe 2 bolts. If you’re not in a salty area you’ll be fine.

[@AaronRowland-y5w]

@@jacksimi is your truck still working

[@jacksimi]

@@AaronRowland-y5w Yup still going strong. I find if I use a ford oil filter it helps a lot. But it still runs fine, No issues or codes. I've changed the plugs 2 summers ago. Other than that it runs great.

[@AaronRowland-y5w]

@@jacksimi I have a 2004 ford f150 triton 213,345 miles no check engine light has power runs great but it sounds like a diesel when it's warmed up any ideas of what it can be someone said can phasers but it sounds quite on on a cold morning start

[@naititafar8612]

Thx Mak! ur instructions help along with the manual. I changed phazers, guides, chain, DS gear. The car is like new. I have to admit I was afraid at first without the cam block tool but again ur directions was so credible. I can't show who how much I appreciate ur expertise... You are the Mak Man!!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Naiti Tafar No problem!!

[@richardanthony3404]

OK so my truck 2007 f150 5.4 is reading code p0012 I replaced both cam sensors and both VCT my truck still ideals rough and starts to sound like a diesel, it gets really bad and starts to ideal down and when I keep driving it when I come to a complete stop it ideals down and dies out

[@brewmonsta6413]

Richard Anthony ever found out what it was?

[@johnnybrown1475]

BrewMonsta I have an 03 that sounds like a diesel found out its coming from Trans which has major problem apparently. Google it...hope that helps, I'm in process of looking for Trans now.

[@marcusysaguirre8561]

Replace Cam phasers

[@ceethelight1239]

Ha Richard I'm having the same issue on my 2007 f1504x4 130.000 miles got a new timimg chain ford has went back in it and cant find whats causing this problem can you help me please thanks

[@frodofraggins319]

ceethelight 123 you need a thicker oil. 15w 40

[@fourdragonv2]

When right-hand and left-hand terms are used, is this looking at the truck from the front, or from the drivers seat? Is right-hand the passenger side, and left-hand the drivers side?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Séamus O'McDuggän left is always the drivers side in the automotive industry

[@bryanparis4463]

Great, great, great video. Very detailed and easy to understand. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this for the benefit of all of us! I've completed the cam phaser block, chains and guides with no problem after watching your videos. At just about 1000 mile after complete phaser job, when engine is cold, I get a puff (sometimes big puff) of blue smoke out of the exhaust which I didn't have before. Smoke clears up within a couple of seconds. Engine is stock 5.4 3V except for the phaser block and Livernois ECM reflash. Engine has 85K mile in 2004 F150. No oil useage, just the puff. Any ideas FordTechMakuloco? Thanks again.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Bryan Paris if you just changed the phasers I would say it has something to do with the kit you installed otherwise if you removed the roller followers I would check the valve stem seals for tears.

[@robertswift6101]

im getting the same puff of blue smoke on my 07 mustang with 50K miles on it,,it goes away after it starts..i change my oil every 3000 miles,,,my guess is also the valve stem seals,,,i thought it might be the pcv valve but their isnt one,,,just a tube,,,i`ll be adding a catch can seperator on both sides also,,,but it looks like from what i have seen on videos is the valve seals are bad i guess....total bummer

[@Maidoumurnot]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate your time and SHOWING what needs to be done and WHY the details are important

[@jeffgilmore695]

your the best best teacher

[@brycezahn4647]

How do you feel about lockout kits and why? Also what actually causes the cam phasers to become faulty and make this noise?

[@RocketNothing]

Great tutorial and stellar job on the explanations

[@2815Juan]

Everyone seems to be hating on this motor. I bought my f150 new in 2008. I’ve got this knocking problem to fix. Other than that. My truck is great. I have 164k miles on it. I tow a dump trailer with it for the last 6 years

[@adamhammond4820]

Why is the noise more common on the right bank?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

That bank and phaser is the last to get oil

[@adamhammond4820]

Any recommendations? I've replaced both phasers and the right phaser went out again at 7500 miles. The left phaser makes absolutely no noise.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Well first is to use Ford parts if you are not already second it an oil pressure test it should be 20psi or higher hot idle. Also is there any startup rattle noise?

[@adamhammond4820]

Well that's another question I had. There was a rattle upon startup once the new cam phasers were install. I assumed I messed up a tensioner when I used the wedge to apply tension while installing the new phasers. I installed both phasers the same way. I installed a lockout kit to try to reduce the knocking and the rattle stopped but the knocking just got a little quieter.

[@adamhammond4820]

Well that's not really a question but you know what I mean

[@johngourley898]

Your videos are very detailed and awesome. I have watched many of your videos and have not seen you demonstrate how to safely replace the lash adjusters without doing a timing job. I was wondering if it would be okay to remove the cam tower bolts once you have the cam in a neutral position and lift the cam enough to remove and replace the lash adjusters? While utilizing the wedge tool, which you demonstrated in this video.

[@LernestW]

you're very knowledgeable. thank you for sharing.

[@t1reed1]

I'm planning to replace the lash adjusters when I do the timing job on my wife's 2012 expedition. Do I need to prime these, or do the come ready to install? Thanks for all the great info!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You must prime them, I would not waste money on them though they never fail. I would put that money towards the roller followers that fail often.

[@GregsGarage]

Great video brother. Thanks.

[@KaliBlaz]

i know this is an old video, but I am getting confused between your timing walk-through video and this one. it happens that i am working on a similar truck, i need to replace 2 valves that broke due to a wrong timing job, and i will have to redo everything from scratch, removing the cylinder head, camshafts, chains... according to your previous video you said that the key way on the crankshaft should be at the 6 o'clock then turn it clockwise until you get at 11 o'clock with the dot at 6 o'clock. that i have no problems with, but when comes the time to line up the chain with the camshaft phasers teeth, where does the camshaft have to be exactly to get it into that neutral position? is there a marking to watch for? i don't wanna redo this job again.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Once the crankshaft timing dot is at 6 and the keyway at 11 the crank is set. The cams should have no roller followers installed and be free spinning. At this point you line up the marks on the chain with the sprockets as shown in the timing video.

[@KaliBlaz]

+FordTechMakuloco thanks dude, you are the best.

[@jaimemontanez2149]

I already had a ticking sound I was told it was normal. But now i have ticking AND knocking

[@michaelH0000]

Same!! Hows engine? You fix?

[@michaelH0000]

My knock get really loud at 1000rpms