F4U-1A Corsair from Tamiya: Setting the base for heavy aircraft-model weathering

[@fotomakr]

The outtake at the end was the best. Pretty much half my wire attaching attempts go like that. Great video, like the work on this from ignition to insignia.

[@TheModelGuy]

Dammit that's catchy, should have been the title :) That outtake had to be left in. Keeps it real

[@EricHonaker]

Those sprayed on insignia are looking really nice!

[@TheModelGuy]

They beat decals hands down. No worry about silvering

[@ErikBushey-s8l]

The ignition wires to the rear cylinders run UP through the rear row baffles. They don't interfere with the cowling when run properly

[@TheModelGuy]

Thanks for the tip. I’m sure to build another one some day. Maybe with the engine completely open.

[@relewis3]

The last 10 seconds had me dying! Great work, can’t wait to see how it turns out

[@TheModelGuy]

Gotta keep it real. The lines don’t fall into place :)

[@GatoCurioso-01]

excellent job! Thanks for sharing...

[@TheModelGuy]

Thanks Gato!

[@jlesquer]

Love your videos and work, looking forward for the next! if I build an aircracft is thinking on mid to heavy weathering, the most creative part on my view...

[@johnking6398]

I have the revel one to do in this scale so I will try out the detailing with lead wire love the paint job well done looking forward to the rest of the build and next year on the zero 👍👍

[@Mrtwowongs]

Good work there.

[@ivanwomack]

You are taking full advantage of F360! Im just learning it and have a prozen sonic mini 4K printer. Every day is a school day!!!

[@paulwarren1173]

Looks like at 6:22 you filled the small gap behind what would be the cowling. You can see a small white material there at this time marker. Is it plastic card? Plastic putty or some kind of filler? I assembled this assembly just now on mine and I have the same exact gap. I’m asking so I can find the best way to correct it. BTW I needed just a tiny amount of filler in front of that round filler cap piece too.

[@TheModelGuy]

That was perfect plastic putty. Once it was in place I wiped the excess away with a damp, not wet or soaked cotton bud

[@paulwarren1173]

@@TheModelGuy ok cool I have some of that. Thanks for the fast response. Love the videos. Keep it up!

[@thebuff4120]

Robbie I see why you closed the engine up (2:42). You don't have the exhausts glued in. Was it intentional? Great build otherwise.

[@TheModelGuy]

That is intentional. The exhaust were glued to the firewall already if you watch until 4:30ish. I couldn’t get the cowlings halves to join because the lead wires I put in were interfering with the fit

[@thebuff4120]

@@TheModelGuy referring to Parts H1 and H2 don't seem to be there (5:40) they attach to the front cylinders of the engine, then attach to the firewall exhausts parts in 4.30

[@scottmurphy650]

Dana Bell, has a fantastic book on colors for the Corsair. According to him, in an overall GSB aircraft, some aircraft wheel wells were painted GSB and some Interior Green. I got dinged on my F4U-1D at an IPMS contest. I showed them the paragraph out of Dana's book, and the judge backpedaled.

[@TheModelGuy]

@@scottmurphy650 colour accuracy should have no factor on judging in IPMS.

[@scottmurphy650]

@@TheModelGuy Theoretically that is true, but you and I both know that it does.

[@TheModelGuy]

@@scottmurphy650 I have as much trust in IPMS judging as I do in gas station sushi

[@scottmurphy650]

@@TheModelGuy This is why I don't bother any more. I don't need any more contest plaques, I have about 40 of them now as it is.

[@patharmon9760]

Are your cowl details available? While I have a brassin engine set, the detail trade off wasn't worth building it. the cowl flaps are included, but it would take too much work to make them fit with the kit supplied parts.

[@TheModelGuy]

@@patharmon9760 I’ll have to see if I can find them. They’re pretty simple and I could design an even better set now.

[@patharmon9760]

@@TheModelGuy That would be amazing. I'm a bot of a novice when it comes to 3D modeling. I've tried Onshape and Tinkercad with better luck than Fusion, but all of them are a bit cumbersome to me.

[@marks93cobra]

I'd like to try doing that sort of detailing in the future...where can I source some of that lead wire? I assume it comes in different diameters so things appear scale correct? By the way, that bird is coming along very nicely , as usual!

[@TheModelGuy]

It is a six pack of lead wire from Cabela's. Several different gauges

[@gwaihirwindlord1935]

I picked mine up from Amazon. Fishman fly tying lead wire

[@Maddog-nb9vu]

Yep, chipping can get frustrating. Tried it recently and let my lacquer paint (Tamiya XF and AK RC) dry to long. Do you think I could get that paint to chip...Nope! Then I tried on a different model and chipped within an hour of painting. Chipped easier but not as easy as other videos let on.

[@TheModelGuy]

What were you using for a base paint and chipping fluid?

[@Maddog-nb9vu]

Primer was Mr Hobby 1500, then Tamiya LP-11 Silver (wanted the silver layer to be tough), then hair spray. Final coat was was either Tamiya XF or AK RC on 2 different models. The first model with Tamiya XF dried overnight and then I could dab away with water and stiff brushes until dooms day and the paint would not chip. 2nd model was with AK RC (same process) and tried chipping within 1 hour of applying paint and it seemed to work but was still an effort. Not as easy as many you tube videos suggest. Maybe they where using acrylic paint for the final layer????

[@TheModelGuy]

@@Maddog-nb9vu hmm that sounds like it should have worked. If it's being stubborn, I'll use sanding sponges to start the chipping so the water can get under easier

[@Maddog-nb9vu]

I did try that but had to be very careful I didn't sand down to the primer coat. It still was next to impossible to expand on the chipping no matter how much water or dab, dab, dab, I did with a stiff brush. I even tried initially scrapping carefully with a xacto blade but the chipping would not expand beyond the scraped area. The only way I could get chipping to work with hair spray process was if I started the chipping within an hour or two after the final paint layer was applied.

[@TheModelGuy]

@@Maddog-nb9vu I hear a medium hold hairspray is the best.

[@pauldechampignon2287]

First! Aaaaaand what's the better way of starting the weekend than watching your film? Thanks!

[@TheModelGuy]

Thanks Paul :) Gotta get in before NightShift steals the day.

[@jokael]

I'm just getting into the hobby and started watching your videos. I'm breaking in with the Tamiya VOUGHT F4U-1A CORSAIR 1/48 and the complementing A6M3 Zero. I was wondering what size wire best suited for hydraulic lines and wires for 1/48 models?

[@TheModelGuy]

I would go with 0.1mm and 0.15. You can also strip regular 18 gauge wires too. Whatever looks the best to you

[@joebringas4807]

Haha. I hear the Jimmy Jams in the background at the end

[@TheModelGuy]

I always have his streams on while I'm at the bench. :)

[@joebringas4807]

@@TheModelGuy me too. His voice is quite relaxing. Also a shit ton of knowledge.

[@Potpie007]

What's the name for the ready made spark plugs? I can't quite catch what you said.

[@TheModelGuy]

Anyz does them.

[@Potpie007]

@@TheModelGuy ok, thanks

[@Nick0t1ne]

What are you using for the insignia mask?

[@TheModelGuy]

I'm using my silhouette machine to cut them out.

[@Nick0t1ne]

@@TheModelGuy sorry I wasnt specific enough, whats the material? Ive been using sheets of tamiya masking tape on mine and they dont turn out the best

[@eagledocf15d]

What is your formula for the sprue goo? Thanks

[@vmoney9106]

Robbie, That uncapped airbrush cup is making me nervous. I wouldn’t want it to spill on the Corsair. Otherwise, I’m liking these more in depth episodes over the single episode format, and of course the Corsair is looking the tits

[@TheModelGuy]

I keep it full just for you :)

[@vmoney9106]

@@TheModelGuy Some men just want to watch the world burn