F800GS Service E8: Replace cam chain, followers and tensioner

Do you remember that slack cam chain from E3? Well, it's getting replaced now. Hast la vista, cam chain! In this episode I drain the oil, remove the clutch cover, remove the cams, explain how I replace the cam chain and do the work. I also replace the followers, but there's not much footage of that.
The AdvRider thread about replacing the cam chain: advrider.com/f/threads/d-i-y-...
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This is link to the cam chain tool that we used
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004L6DUV...
it worked well. If you are curious about what else we use, check out the Amazon storefront; www.amazon.co.uk/shop/jockeselin
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[@JockeSelin]

I keep getting questions about where to get the links. I don't know as this video is now over 6 years old. However, I'll post links to sites that have links here in this pinned comment. If you find that a link is out of date, let me know, if you find another link, let me know. I know that KZbin doesn't like you posting links, so you might have to figure out another way to send the link to me (no, you're going to have to figure it out as I'm not sharing that info here). www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/sc0412h82rh2015-cam-chain-rivet-link/1/008357 - thanks to @hetzaljekindmaarzijn

[@moto8808]

Какие симптомы были перед тем как решили поменять цепь?.

[@JockeSelin]

@@moto8808 Utifrån så är det inte många symptom förutom extra oljud, men om man öppnar motorn och granskar kedjan så ser man det klart om kedjan är sträckt.

[@moto8808]

С наружи то понятно..) Стучит двигатель (f800s), иногда глохнет, потерял в мощности.. Вот и пытаюсь понять.. Цепь да провисает.. Спасибо..)

[@dustifyoumust2244]

That is a very fine effort! 5 years later and still worth watching. Thank you for your efforts in filming this for us the viewer.

[@JockeSelin]

I’m glad you still found it useful. If I do another cam chain, I think I’ll redo the video to show more details. Thanks again! 😎👍🏻

[@jeremyjameson1736]

Very Nice!! Saved so much time and heartache splitting those cases.

[@JockeSelin]

Glad it was of use! Kudos to the guys over at AdvRider! If I have to do it again, I'll do a better video - where I'm not trembling and dripping of sweat like I'm disarming a bomb. ;)

[@kensimon]

Good job and thank you for sharing this !

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks! Glad it was useful. 😎👍🏻

[@jorgearaya8843]

Wow!! You are great!! Thanks for the video ✌️

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! Glad it was of use!

[@2002xtreme0]

Jocke, Fantastic video!.

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you!

[@tripfanatic]

You nailed! Saved a lot of time! Thats also a lot of money! I doesnt matter how you did it, but look at the awesome result. Thanls adv riders for bringing the inspiration

[@JockeSelin]

You’re right, the guys over at AdvRider are the ones who figured this out. I just recorded my progress. 😎 This issue seems to become more and more frequent. 😞

[@ihousetraveldoomostartours6528]

Amazing, you are a master at work! Polite and meticulous at the same time. I dont have chain work to be done, but I really enjoyed watching your video. Great! Take care and drive safe!

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks for the very kind comment. I’m pleased to hear you’re enjoying the videos. Thanks again! 😊👍🏻

[@adrianfromlondon9243]

Jocke, thats a big personal outpouring there, we're all behind you for sure and appreciate all your hard work. Like you, if I'm not at the computer I don't earn, so I set achievable goals that work for me , photography half a day, editing 3 hours, filming when weather conditions permit, riding as and when I can, family time and so on, running for me is a real stress buster. Anyway enough rabbiting from me, best wishes to you and Caz 2019

[@JockeSelin]

I know what you mean, Adrian, and thanks for the support. Personally I'm much less structured, even before my depression. These days it feels like my brain doesn't "lock into focus", it just wanders all over and I can find myself having 5 tasks all unfinished around me. One day at a time, one upload at a time. Thanks again!

[@tH0d0RHs]

Awesome video

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! Glad it was useful. 😊👍🏻

[@alvcarnog]

Awesome. Nice job. I really appreciate it.

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks! Glad it came in use! :)

[@AceMBP]

I hope I never need to do that but thanks a bunch for documenting how to do it.

[@JockeSelin]

Ed DeBolt , I hope you never have to do it either. 😎 Glad the video was of use, sorry I didn’t film all the parts. I’ll do better next time!

[@timo3100]

Very Nice job Jocke.

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks Timo! 😎👍🏻

[@endurofly]

Great job Jocke,I've used the same procedure on my old Yama Super Tenere. Drive safe

[@JockeSelin]

That's excellent. Good to know that this can be done on more than one engine. Cheers! 😎👍🏻

[@adamgaffney8863]

This is a very innovative method! Much better than a complete tear down! Glad it worked out so well! I would have dropped the chain

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks. All credit goes to the pioneers at AdvRider forum. 😎👍🏻👍🏻

[@amirghani1496]

Nice job , Thanks for sharing .

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! You're most welcome! 😎👍🏻

[@joebednar9420]

Awesome Job! I run a Sidecar on my 2014 GS F 800 Adventure. I now have 50000 miles on my rig. Thanks for sharing this with us!!

[@JockeSelin]

You're welcome. That's a pretty unique outfit you have! I don't think I've heard of an F800GS with a sidecar before. Awesome! 😎👍🏻👍🏻

[@westedwards6029]

Thanks Jocke! I'm part way through this repair, but had run into an issue with my master link being way to tight! The chain tool I'm using didn't work well for the riveting and was instead squeezing the plates together (it had a void on back plate so fixed pins on the master-link were not bearing). Anyway, I think I can get it freed up, otherwise, I'll order another master-link and try again. If any one else is attempting this, make sure your tool is correct! Your video has helped me immensely, thanks again!

[@JockeSelin]

Hey, glad the video has been useful. I'm still annoyed I wasn't able to film it all. You're right though, the master link can be quite delicate to put together. As with bicycle chains, it might work by bending the chain side-to-side, carefully of course, to loosen up the links. When I ordered the master link, I think I ordered 4 of them. I heard of another person who also had trouble riveting the links and had to use more than one. So definitely get more than one. So, what we've learnt: More than one link and correct tool! Excllent! Thanks for your insights!

[@dannyaustin84]

WAW! well done!

[@JockeSelin]

😎👍🏻

[@StefanoMaldarelli]

Great Job ! Thank you!

[@JockeSelin]

You’re most welcome. Thanks for watchin’! 😎👍🏻

[@motonest8633]

Good job!

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you!

[@wagnerandrade7808]

Very good!!

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! I will hopefully have more episodes coming out, however, this was the last one that was pre-edited - long story - so it might take a while, however, I'll keep making videos. I hope you stick around for more. 😎👍🏻

[@Grant-kj4eq]

good job dude .

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks, Grant! :)

[@Paulista09]

man you have made a new fan down here in brazil...congrats for the video and if you feel you nedd something let me know,,,thanks a lot

[@JockeSelin]

Bom dia! Obrigado! I’m very glad to hear you like the videos. Maybe one day I will be able to explore Brazil. It would be awesome! Take care and stay safe! 😎👍🏻👍🏻

[@pcranebmw]

Shop wants $4000.00 US to fix this issue on my bike. They want to split the engine the traditional way. I also have bent valves. 62000 miles on engine. No issues before this happened. They told me the parts would be $2000.00 US. That sounds very high to me. Thanks for sharing this video. I’m going to try this method at home.

[@JockeSelin]

That sounds very expensive! What exactly happened to your engine? Do check out the AdvRider thread for more information and hope you get it fixed. It’s not that difficult. Just don’t rush it and be extra careful with everything and triple check everything you do. You should have it done fairly quickly. You can do it!! 😎👍🏻👍🏻

[@pcranebmw]

Jocke thanks for the reply. The engine started for 2 seconds and then shut off. Zero compression resulted. The mechanic told me it skipped a couple of teeth which resulted in the engine being out of time. Which resulted in the bent valves. I will watch the adv video you told me about. Thanks for your advice. I live in Arizona and it is really hot here right now. I will start the repair in a couple of months when it cools off in my garage. 40c here today.

[@JockeSelin]

Arizona is lovely! Spent a few weeks there last May. Loved it. Whenever you get round to fixing the bike, I'm sure it'll go well. Sounds like you've got quite a bit to do. It might be easier to fit a 2nd hand engine. All the best! Oh, and the link to AdvRider forum is in the description. A lot of information in that thread.

[@macgarymusic]

Thanks for the video. I have a 2015 F 800R with 19k km (12k miles) on the clock, and it sounds really rough when the engine gets warm. Had the valve clearances checked recently, but the rattling noise keeps getting worse. Now it started idling roughly when hot and a warning light came on. Tensioner seems fine to me but I guess I'll go ahead and change the chain along with everything else. Definitely wouldn't have expected it to wear out with such low mileage and regular oil changes etc. But after seeing how the old chain sags in this video, it looks exactly what my bike sounds like. There's something inherently wrong with the design or quality control if this happens at 19000km lol.

[@JockeSelin]

Apologies for the late reply! Did you check the chain's tension when you had the valve clearances checked? I would have guessed that a bad cam chain would have revealed itself at this point? You should definitely check it before replacing it, at least so you know you're fixing an actual problem. 12k miles seems a bit low for this problem to surface. And I agree with that there's something wrong; in the pursuit for lightness they seem to have skimped a bit too much on the cam chain size. Apart from taking a lot of time and being a bit nerve-racking the process isn't too complicated. Good luck and thanks for the comment. 😎👍🏻

[@macgarymusic]

@@JockeSelin Unfortunately I took the bike to a shop for the valve clearances, so I wasn't there when they had the cover off. They didn't mention anything about the chain though, but I can't be sure whether they really looked at it properly. I ordered a new tensioner which should arrive tomorrow, see if that helps. Thought about going for the manual tensioner but decided to give the OEM one a chance. Just gotta hope that this year the Finnish summer lasts for a bit longer than the usual 2 weeks so I'll have some time with the bike outside the garage 😅

[@JockeSelin]

@@macgarymusic Let's hope the new tensioner cures the rough sound. These engines do rattle a bit at start up and when the engine oil is warm, so it might not be anything too bad. It would be a shame if you had to miss on the wonderful summer riding due to bike repairs/maintenance. Fingers crossed for you! 🤞🏻🙂🤞🏻

[@macgarymusic]

@@JockeSelin update: Tensioner didn't make any difference. Took the bike to a shop for diagnostics, and got a call from them yesterday. They said that the issue is the radiator fan. The fan motor has somehow seized, causing it to draw excessive current when the ecu is trying in vein to run it, which means that other electric components don't get enough power. This results in poor injection/ignition, causing the bike to run poorly and thus the chain rattles because it's not running smoothly. Never would've suspected such an issue. New fan should arrive next week, still a little sceptical about the whole thing but we'll see after I get it back.

[@JockeSelin]

@@macgarymusic Thanks for the update, I sure appreciate it and I'm sure the community does too. I've heard of the fans seizing before, in fact my friend's one did. However, I would have thought that the ECU would simply have disabled it if it draws too much power. Having said that, the F800 electrical system is know for requiring a healthy amount of power. A bad battery won't allow the bike to run at all. On Caz's bike we suspected the faulty fuel pump drew too much power and thus the ECU disabled the heated grips. Healthy angry pixies is a must for this bike. Also, a diagnostics tool, such as the GS-911 will not only allow you to read the fault codes, it also allows you to cycle all sort of electrical features on and off, such as the fan. Yes, you can click a check-box in the UI and turn the fan on. Much easier than running the bike hot to see if the fan starts. Anyway, I hope the new fan cures your problems and that you'll be out tearing up the tarmac and gravel roads in no time! 🤟🏻😎🤘🏻

[@sako4me]

There is also a mechanical cam chain tensioner made for this as well. I have one, but have never installed it due to the thicker oil recommended by BMW eliminating any noise. (15w-50 BMW oil) works great in my bike. The tensioner is made by a small company in California, it’s all billet and a quality piece.

[@antoniosem1938]

do you want to sell it if you not using it?

[@xDownSetx]

The company is right down the street from me actually. I just installed one on my F800GS over the weekend and it's working great. I was a bit nervous, but the installation was super easy.

[@edzardbiermann7139]

@@xDownSetx Hi Michael. Do you have a link or email address for this mechanical cam chain tensioner please ?

[@edzardbiermann7139]

Hi sako4me. Where can I buy this mechanical cam chain tensioner ?

[@xDownSetx]

@@edzardbiermann7139 A link will probably be blocked by youtube, but if you Google "Southern California Motowerks MCTF800GS" it should be the top result.

[@Enonymouse_]

Lucky for you there's a book for this, sad saps like myself that have a newer bike, there's no written documentation on the technical aspects of the bike. The bmw tech CD/DVD is written for technicians not for laymen, so they skip a lot of procedural stuff.

[@JockeSelin]

I think the Haynes manual is a good compromise, a bit more user friendly than the pure technical documentation by BMW. 😎👍🏻

[@OskPionier]

Thumbs up for courage! Hope it runs as it should! ;)

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks! Bike runs perfectly!

[@wisely120564]

that interesting, well done bro, i can feel how you feel of the blood pressure hahaha lol

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! 😎👍🏻

[@JohnnyDy]

Great job! Many Thanks. One question: Why did you remove left cover of engine? is necessary ?

[@JockeSelin]

It’s quite a long time ago, but I think we removed the left engine cover because we wanted to change the plastic chain guide, and it pivots at a bolt that’s accessible from behind the engine cover. If you don’t do this, I believe you can change the cam chain without removing the engine cover. I’m not 100% certain though. Just can’’t remember.

[@Ellemci]

Great tutorial. But the only wrongdoing is riveting the links with the ball tip type. The ball tip type should only be used for hollow rivet pins which flares out the rivet head. You should have used the square head flattening rivet (like the other links). You can clearly see the heads of the rivet pins cracked. This is likely to lead to failure.

[@zakw3637]

Do you happen to know where one can get a quad head flattening tool for this chain? I tried to flare it and it didn’t work.

[@user-sm7zv8jp6t]

Hello Jocke! Great video! Thank you! Please inform, what oil viscosity did you use before this replacement of the timing chain? Thanks! Nick

[@JockeSelin]

Hi Nick, thanks! I don't know what oil was in the bike. My friend bought the bike and gave it to me to fix up and that's when we discovered this cam-chain issue along with a host of other things. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[@foldi001]

Fast alle Hersteller in Deutschland (auch und gerade bei Autos) hatten viele Probleme mit Steuerketten. Die Ketten kamen ausnahmslos aus China und waren alle von schlechter Qualtität.

[@ode4492]

Thank you for this video. I'll be doing this method later this summer. One question. Why did you need to remove the clutch cover?

[@JockeSelin]

We wanted to change the cam chain guide. If I remember correctly, it pivots at the bottom and is attached by a bolt that's accessible from inside the clutch side of the engine. It turned out that the guide was barely worn. We also wanted to change the clutch cover itself as it was badly corroded. If your clutch cover is in good condition and/or you don't need/want to change the cam chain guide, then there's no need to remove the clutch cover. Hope that helps, and good luck with it all!

[@raymondscott1793]

This is a great reference video Jocke. Thank you. I’ve watched it many times as I’m about to undertake this job too. I’m trying to source a master link locally in Australia before starting the job. Do you happen to know what the pin diameter is of the link?

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks Raymond! I hope the "operation" goes well. I do have a couple of spare links, but I don't know exactly in which box of bits they are. If I find them, I could measure the pins, but please don't hold your breath. I'll ask her-who-knows-stuff to see if we can find the spec for you, that might be more accurate. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

[@JockeSelin]

Hope the link works to the AdvRider thread: www.advrider.com/f/threads/d-i-y-cam-chain-replacement.727687/page-8#post-18036748 You should find the details there. Hope that helps.

[@raymondscott1793]

Hi Jocke. Six years on and I was wondering if you still are riding the GS and how many miles you have put on the engine since the cam chain replacement. Happy New Year! Ray.

[@JockeSelin]

Hi Ray! Sorry for the delayed answer. The bike in this video isn’t mine, so I don’t have any up to date information. As far as I can tell, the bike is still fully functional. Having said that, I should have a look at my own bike’s chain. Sorry I can’t be more accurate. Happy New Year to you too! 🍾😎👍🏻

[@zakw3637]

Hey Jocke, great video. I'm rebuilding the same bike and your videos are very helpful. Have a question, if I'm not replacing the guides - just the chain, do I need to remove the cam retainer cover and cams? Would it be possible to rotate the new chain on while turning the engine over? I'm assuming you removed them so it was easier to align everything once you had the new chain connected.

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks for watchin'! 😎 I wouldn't recommend leaving the cams in place. Not only do you have to rotate the engine, but you have to do it with the cams in place and making sure you don't hit the pistons. I don't know if there's a point where the cams are in a position where all the valves are shut, in case you could remove the chain from the cams and rotate just the pistons. It just sounds like creating a lot of points where things could go wrong. Removing the cams is not such a big job, and when putting them back you know everything is aligned too. Also, the cam chain guide (clutch side) tends to break off if you don't remove the cam cover very carefully. So keep that in mind regardless of whether you intend to take it off or not. Good luck! 😁👍🏻

[@zakw3637]

@@JockeSelin Good points, I'll just remove them and realign. One more question: do I leave the TDC locking bolt in while I roll on the chain? I wasn't able to tell from the video if you positioned it there more for repositioning the cams. Thanks for the help.

[@JockeSelin]

@@zakw3637 You’re right, the video doesn’t show it. The TDC locking bolt literally locks the crank, so to rotate the engine and pull the chain around, you need to remove it. Hope that clears it. Good luck! 😎👍🏻

[@terrygower6356]

Great video....I have been working on an F800r recently....I would have left the four valve cover bolts in their rubber seats if doing it again....loosening them a little at a time and slowly releasing the cover.....that way they don't get hauled in and out of the rubber seat damaging it......they want to be in the valve cover when you put it on not inserted later....this bike I am working on has had a failure of the oil pump gears behind the clutch....the black plastic gears....11 41 7 690 441 shorn clean of teeth......I noticed that you can access the crankshaft cam chain sprocket once the complete clutch is removed if need be...

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks for your comment, Terry! Those rubber thingies are supposed to be replaced every time you take the cam cover off according to the overlords at BMW. However, if you're going to reuse them, I think your method is the way to go - you just need to know it before you remove them. 🤣 Any idea what caused the oil pump gears to shear? Hope you get the F800R back on the road!

[@terrygower6356]

I have no idea why the oil pump gear sheared...may be a freak failure of a tooth on the drive gear.....may be too many real cold starts as the bike was used in the winter.........it was good the owner shut things down when he heard the drive gear whining past the driven oil pump gear....thanks.

[@JockeSelin]

It's always annoying when you don't know the root cause of a failure, but full kudos to tackling the problem and getting it fixed. 😎👍🏻

[@terrygower6356]

Right....I clean the rubbers , and rubber gaskets with a quick wipe of thinners .....tack them up with a little hylomar blue as I do on airhead pushrod bungs...take care.

[@happyhappyhani]

I wonder if the new cam chain tensioner if installed first would have removed the sag.

[@JockeSelin]

The chain was stretched. A chain tensioner is not a chain adjuster.

[@halils70]

Hi Jocke, Thank you very for the valuable video sessions. My question; I have 2010 F800GS 2010 with 100.000km, what is cam chain lifespan? Many thanks.

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! It's hard to say and I think the best way is to check the condition of it. If it sags too much, replace it. If my memory serves, this engine had 57,000 miles (~91,000 km) on it, see the first episode for details.

[@antoniosem1938]

Very good video mate, but where to get the links for that chain?

[@JockeSelin]

Tony, have a look at the AdvRider forum thread. You might find updated information there. I got my links from Busters in UK (I think) however I don't think they're trading anymore, or the link to the links is broken. You can find my (TheJoker) info on the AdvRider thread, and if you find the links, please post an updated resource there.

[@claudiokauffmann]

Well Done Bro!!! On my F800R 2010 the noise is some how hard on start-ups and I am planning to change the cam chain, put on a new tensioner and replace the three sliding plates/pieces; also it will be OK to check and adjust valve clearance, by the way, the shims are only available from BMW Motorrad? can I use/borrow shims from other maker? Thanks again y Very well done!!!

[@JockeSelin]

Thank you! If your noise is only on start up, everything might be fine, as there's a bit of rattle until the oil pressure has built up and the cam chain has been tensioned by the pressure. However, if you're about to check the valve clearances, you'll quickly notice if your cam chain has stretched - as shown the E3 video. When it comes to the shims, I don't know, because I've never had to replace a shim. If you don't need to do the service in a hurry, then I'd open the engine up, and measure the valve clearance, and if needed, buy the shims. I've heard of F800 engines that have done more than 100,000 miles (160,000km) without any valve clearance issues. You can find the part numbers on realoem.com for any parts you need, including shims (I would hope). :) Good luck with the service!

[@ssc00p]

@@JockeSelin www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0244-USA-03-2012-K71-BMW-F_800_ST_0234,0244_&diagId=11_4003 is this the right engine? I guess so... can I just replace the new chain tensioner "on the fly" so to speak... just drain the oil and then remove the old one...

[@emmahoeve]

Thanks Jocke for nice video. Maybe you should mention to always turn the crank an even number of timer because then crankshaft and camshafts are on the same points of the sequence in case of ignition or injection sensors are on de crankshaft. By turning the crankshaft in its reverse direction the camchain always wil bend as you put force on the cam chain tensioner in the wrong way. Are you sure you turned the backwheel forward when you made the video of the bending chain ?

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks for watchin', Marius. There are no sensors on the cam shafts. As for the direction, have a look for yourself: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqnEdqCdnchopJI

[@emmahoeve]

@@JockeSelin As for the direction of turning i was a little wrong, you have to turn the wheel backwards otherwise the tensioner wil get pulled on and give way. Instead of driving the wheel with the crank you drive the crank with the wheel so when you turn backwards the tensioner won't get stressed and the chain will pull on the cam shaft in a straight line.

[@detlevbeyer1009]

Thank you for the video! Great job! I managed to get there -- almost. I am just fighting with the rivet tool, which is too big in my eyes to get the kind of result shown in the video (it is maybe better for drive chains) - How (or with what kind of tool) did you rivet achieving such a good looking result? Not with the tool shown in the link, I assume -- I have a similar one and the chain is far to small to get fixed correctly. The rivet pin is too big for the 2.6mm masterlink to be split?? My tool is ruined already, but the Masterlink looks as it came out of the box.

[@JockeSelin]

Sorry to hear about your problems. I used the “Draper 31318 Expert Chain Splitter and Riveter Kit” (www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-31318-Expert-Splitter-Riveter/dp/B004L6DUV0) as is linked in the description. The smallest riveting tool worked just fine for me. I did grind the ends off the old chain link to break it when I removed it, and also the new chain too to remove the link that was replaced with the master link. With all riveting tools, you have to get it all aligned perfectly or the tool will break. You actually don’t have to squish (rivet) the link very hard. It just needs to expand the ends of the link to prevent it from moving off. I do remember having a bit of an issue trying to get the tool into place, I had to push it through the frame. Sorry, it’s been a while since. It did work fine, and it wasn’t an issue. Let me know if I can help any more.

[@zakw3637]

Hey Detlev were you able to figure it out? I tried a similar tool with the same results

[@detlevbeyer1009]

@@zakw3637 Moin - There was no other option rather to complete the job. So I had to be patient and analyse the details (upfront: I succeeded and it was worth it!). In the video the link was a tubular rivet, I had a solid one, which was the reason why the tool broke. So I bought a more solid chain tool at "Louis" (Rothewald), but as this was too big as well, it was kind of job for 10 hands which took some time, because I only had two of those. So the answer - buy a solid tool and take you time - save all the area around, so you do not loose any material in the motor! - I had one "almost" accident, but I finally found the part after one hour! Never give up!! As mentioned: I succeeded at the end, and the valve timing was as it should be at the end - the two lines matched exactly - before there was a variance and the chain was loose. Then I drove one year (appr. 5000 km) and doublechecked it during the winter time again - still everything perfect. Machine is running smoothly now (ok - after 75000 some noise is still there, but for me I define it as "character") - now I am sure, this will be good for a lot of years. Hope that helps - have fun!

[@JockeSelin]

Glad you got there in the end, Detlev! And thanks for providing more information. 😊👍🏻

[@ganzhorton]

Hey Jocke, I hope your well, how has the new chain held up? Mines started slapping around now so it needs doing. Can you remember where you got the master link from?

[@JockeSelin]

Hey! I don’t have any updated info on the bike, but as far as I know, it’s still going strong. If memory serves, we got the links from Busters in UK, there’s specs in the AdvRider thread - somewhere. 😬 Good luck with the fix! 🤞🏻😎👍🏻

[@bearriverarmory1740]

when removing the cam plate nuts one of them fell. I thought I would find it when I took the plate off but no luck. My fear is that it fell down the timing chain area. If I pull the oil pan do you think I would find it? Thoughts?

[@JockeSelin]

Hey, that sounds serious! I'd be very careful of what I'd be doing next. If it fell down next to the cam chain, I doubt it would have fallen down to the oil pan. I guess (I really don't know) that the passage around the cam chain is very narrow and that it wouldn't allow for a nut to pass by. I'd make sure I get the nut out somehow before even turning the engine round. Maybe get a very strong magnet and secure it somehow to a stick or a piece of string and fish the nut out somehow. You can have a look at realoem.com or just Google Images to try to figure out where the nut might have ended up. Hope you can find the nut!!

[@wildwestmotosutah3188]

I found it. It was embarrassing though because it ended up just behind a spring on top. However after I found that I ended up dropping a shim down the timing chain area. I pulled the clutch cover and it was sitting at right under the chain.

[@raimomartikainen1134]

Hey Good video but where can I buy a chain link? I have an original BMW chain. Raimo

[@JockeSelin]

Raimo, anteeksi, en nähnyt kysymystä. I hope I am too late and that you've figured it out already and that the bike is up and running. Have a look at the AdvRider forum thread I've linked to. I ordered my links from Busters in UK, but I don't think they're available anymore, they might not even be trading. They are standard links, so they should be available from places that sell parts for motorcycle engines.

[@cooper9744]

Do you have any website I can find these master links?

[@JockeSelin]

Hi, sorry I don’t have any links as they would be country dependent. It was a long time ago now, but from memory we bought from Busters Accessories in the UK. Good luck, and let us know how you get on 😎

[@user-vh7of1pv9g]

Hey. On what mileage did it take to replace the timing chain?

[@JockeSelin]

About 54,000 miles or 87,000km as explained in Episode 1, the intro.

[@carlos84675]

Good afternoon, thank you very much for your video, where can I buy the master link? thank you so much

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks for watching! It was a long time ago, but I think we got ours from Busters Accessories in the UK. They are standard links, so you should be able to get them from places that sell parts for motorcycle engines. Good luck!

[@carlos84675]

@@JockeSelin Thank you!!

[@JockeSelin]

@@carlos84675 - You're welcome, please let me know how you get on!

[@ruangloy7099]

When rotating the engine, I assume you took out the locking pin you used when locking the engine at TDC?

[@JockeSelin]

Yes, that’s correct. Wouldn’t rotate otherwise, but I didn’t make it clear it was removed.

[@ruangloy7099]

@@JockeSelin Thank you for clarifying. Keep well.

[@JockeSelin]

@@ruangloy7099 No worries and take care! 😎👍🏻

[@lesmansom7817]

Did this stop the start up rattle?

[@JockeSelin]

No, it didn’t and it shouldn’t. The cam chain is not tensioned until there is oil pressure.

[@kristopherryanrides198]

where did you get the master link from ?

[@JockeSelin]

If you would have read some of the other comments, you'd know the answer, but here it is once again: I think we bought them from a company in UK called Buster's - I don't think they are trading anymore, but if you look through the comments and the link to the AdvRider thread I'm sure you can find some links. If you do find a good source, then please leave a comment here so others can find it too. Thank you!

[@kristopherryanrides198]

thanks! one last thing... how were you able to rotate the chain through with the 8mm bolt locking the cam shaft in tdc ?

[@JockeSelin]

@@kristopherryanrides198 You remove the TDC bolt to rotate the engine. Looks like I wasn't very clear about that in the video. Hope that helps. 🙂

[@primozkaluza3621]

How many miles the bike had when you serviced it?

[@JockeSelin]

It's covered a couple of times in the comments :) You can also check out the intro in E1 where I give a little more detail about the bike: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnbPi4OrrcqNqcU

[@hetzaljekindmaarzijn]

Good video, where have you found the master link (for connection the chain)? Does the Bmw dealer have them? And if so, do you know a partnumber?

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks! I’ve answered this question many times, and the short answer is no, the link to the link has expired. I also keep asking people to post links to where they have found the links, but that doesn’t really seem to happen very often. Sorry I can’t be much more of a help. I hope you find the links and the job goes smoothly. 🤞🏻🙂👍🏻

[@hetzaljekindmaarzijn]

@@JockeSelin I have tried twice to post a link to someone who can supply them. But youtube deleted this message?

[@JockeSelin]

@@hetzaljekindmaarzijn Oh, that sucks! Thanks for trying. In the past, YT has quarantined messages with links, and I've then been able to approve them. This time it seems like they have deleted the whole message. Try to write a message without the link? Glad you find the links though! Very pleased!

[@hetzaljekindmaarzijn]

@@JockeSelin motorcycleproducts(ponint)co(point)uk in the Uk has these master links.

[@hetzaljekindmaarzijn]

@@JockeSelin I have send the link by Facebook

[@bambilul]

I am wondering, wouldn't that be a problem of the chain tensioner? how can we measure if the chain is stretched?

[@JockeSelin]

I'm not really sure what to answer to this. I think I'd need some more information to be able to answer better, but here goes nevertheless. The original BMW cam chain tensioner doesn't have any adjustability. You just screw it in and that's it. The new one we put in was not exactly the same as the new one. Perhaps it's a bit uprated and thus will minimise this problem for the future. To measure the chain stretch reliably in situ you'd have to have some very exact measuring device as the stretch per link is very small. Obviously you can measure it better if you take it out of the engine. I'm quite annoyed that I didn't do this when I had them side-by-side. I regret that a lot now. I think the short of it is; If your cam tensioner can't tension the cam chain; it's stretched beyond its specification and thus need replacing - no shortcuts (except this method where you don't have to split the cases). Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

[@bambilul]

Do you still have the old chain? I think it worth measuring it and putting the numbers online so others could compare it with theirs or new ones. In my research I found a boar spectrum of replacing intervals from 25,000 miles in one case to 238,000km in another case, and everythign in between :). Seems to me that there is a lot of confusion about it. Someone on advrider said he found in the service manual a picture of a tool that inserted in the tensioner place would measure the total elongation of the chain but the dealer could not find that tool. I was also unable to find that in the service manual.... Also, the tensioner seems to be hydraulic. Which means that it is possible even with a good chain to see slack in between cam sprockets with the engine stopped because the chain is not at all tensioned...

[@JockeSelin]

I don't have the old chain, sorry. It was filmed in summer 2015, so it's all long gone. I do wish I had compared them at the time, but for some reason (probably too stressed and focused) I didn't do it. I'm just taking a very pragmatic stance to it all; if the chain shows slackness it needs changing. The tensioner is only there to add a bit of tension, not get rid of this amount of stretch (it's not a chain adjuster as per the rear wheel). I hope you can find out the information you need, but the easiest way is to just open it up and see what it looks like, and replace it if it looks slack. Sorry I can't provide any more information.

[@bambilul]

No worries! Thank you fot the effort of sharing this with us. I’m thinking to write to BMW or even Rotax to ask. I like the scientific approach :)

[@DeanValentine-gq7gz]

Was the new chain a BMW one? Thanks

[@JockeSelin]

Yes.

[@tommasolenzi333]

Hey hi im going to change chain beacause i have your same problem.....do you know how long or how many pieces have the original chain?....tks sooo much

[@JockeSelin]

I never counted the links, as we bought the chain from BMW so it came with the correct length. Try the AdvRider thread there might be additional information in there. Hope you get the chain replaced without too much hassle.

[@tommasolenzi333]

@@JockeSelin tks sooo much....

[@JockeSelin]

Good luck with the fix! Please let me know how it worked out!

[@tommasolenzi333]

@@JockeSelin sure!

[@tommasolenzi333]

@@JockeSelin after 1 year chain goes great!!!! What kind of instrument do you use for pin the nipple lock chain?

[@ruslankonung597]

Good day. is this the original chain? where to order a connecting pin?

[@JockeSelin]

"The original chain"? Was it installed in the factory? I don't know, I don't know the history of the bike, but I would guess it was the original chain. Or do you mean if it was a BMW chain we purchased to replace the stretched one? Yes, it was ordered from BMW. As for the link, this has been answered many times in the comments, but is also listed in the description. However, I believe the company doesn't exist anymore so the link is outdated. Good day.

[@ruslankonung597]

@@JockeSelin you installed this pin yourself to connect the chain

[@JockeSelin]

@@ruslankonung597 yes

[@ruslankonung597]

@@JockeSelin thank for video and response

[@JockeSelin]

@@ruslankonung597 you’re very welcome. Good luck and please keep us posted on how it went. 😎👍🏻

[@ssc00p]

I am no mechanic, but isn´t that chain slack normal while you are turning the engine without the oil. Since then you do not have oil pressure in the chain tensioner to keep the slack out the chain and at same time valve springs are able to overrotate (intake) valve cam a bit after the highest point of the valve lobe?

[@JockeSelin]

No, it's not normal. Which you can see when the new chain is fitted. The chain tensioner isn't an adjuster like the rear wheel adjusters. It's just there to remove excess movement. If you have that much slack, then you risk the chain jumping teeth on the sprockets. And I'm no mechanic either. 🤣

[@ssc00p]

@@JockeSelin Did you measure how much the old chain had streched?

[@JockeSelin]

Sadly I didn't. I really wish I had compared them, but in my brain-haze I didn't do it. (Sorry for the late reply, I keep finding comments all over the place!)

[@happyhappyhani]

I’m starting to get a ping at start. My chain is stretched is allowing abit of timing play. Definitely dancing with the devil. Parts should be here tomorrow for the job.

[@JockeSelin]

Hope the operation goes well when you get the parts! 😎👍🏻👍🏻

[@hanieid4168]

How many miles were are your bike when you decided to swap Cam chains?

[@JockeSelin]

This bike had 87,000km / 54,000 miles when the videos were filmed and we noticed the problem with the cam chain.

[@antoniosem1938]

@@JockeSelin mine is only 13000 miles and have this problem.

[@JockeSelin]

@@antoniosem1938 Sorry to hear that! That's the lowest I've ever heard with this problem. I hope you can get it sorted.

[@nailaraffaelli2996]

help , current comman sync f800

[@JockeSelin]

I have no idea how I can help you.

[@pmejuto]

Thanks for the video. It is really helpful. I have one question about the chain. Have you considered by that time or from there to now to buy the camchain directly from the manufacturer Borgwarner Morse? I bought the one of the link below to make the change next weekend. It is (apparently) the same chain and the manufacturer sells it opened with the propper link, at least it has the BWA letters on links with is from Borgwarner Inc. I think I bought right with 146 links long. Do you know if it is correct? www.dam-sport.net/es/cadena-de-distribucion-abierta-borg-warner-con-enganche-82rh2015-146-honda-cb-750-1991-1992.html

[@JockeSelin]

If you can buy the chain with the correct link directly from the manufacturer, that's excellent. Sadly I don't know whether it is correct or not. I'm no chain expert, so I really don't want to give you wrong advice. I'm sure it would be of use to a lot of other people if you could post whether it was the correct chain or not.

[@pmejuto]

@@JockeSelin of course, I will. It is at home from 1h ago. Lets see

[@JockeSelin]

Hope it goes well! 😎👍🏻

[@pmejuto]

@@JockeSelin in process to be changed. Look how It is the old one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpjKZ5ljerakn5I

[@pmejuto]

One question Jocke. What tool did you use to rivet the chain?

[@dejanmeki]

what was millage on that bike ?

[@JockeSelin]

From memory, 57,000 miles, check out episode 1 for the details.

[@dejanmeki]

@@JockeSelin mine is sitting at 60000km still didn't touch anything

[@JockeSelin]

Sounds like you have a good bike! Hope you enjoy!

[@dejanmeki]

@@JockeSelin I mean on engine only

[@JockeSelin]

According to BMW the cam chain should never need replacing, so you might have a good engine.

[@julioenriquevargasdelahoz3530]

Km?

[@JockeSelin]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnbPi4OrrcqNqcU

[@jimymartinez4037]

Por favor suptitular en español

[@JockeSelin]

No hablo español, así que no puedo hacer eso, incluso si tuviera tiempo. Pero me encantaría que la gente contribuyera con subtítulos para nuestros videos. Gracias por mirar, incluso si está en inglés.

[@nicodiep]

Very helpful post... Thanks from all of us GS owners! I take it that in order to turn the engine over (to feed the cam chain through), the locking pin was removed.... Was it relevant to count the rotations of the engine to get back to #1 TDC? Or is it that ones the pin is relocated back in place(regardless of engine rotations) and cams set up as per instruction, engine will automatically line up #1 TDC? Cant mess up firing order by not counting rotations? Master link?? Was it hard to fined? The only mention of a supplier I could fined is www.z1enterprises.com/. Like to share with us how you managed to sours yours? Many thanks again! Nick

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks! Yes, locking pin needs to be removed to rotate the engine to feed the chain through. When you re-install the cams, you need to align everything up according to the manual. And double check it, and triple check it. The AdvRider forum thread contains information about the master link, and there should be a few links to sites in there, but most importantly, I believe the specifications are in there, so you should be able to find one based on the specs. We just searched and found a supplier, I don't even know if that's relevant anymore. The AdvRider thread and the manual has got a lot of good information, well worth checking out. Thanks again!

[@pmejuto]

@@JockeSelin Hi!!. Thanks a lot for this video. it is the best on the topic. Taking into account that to replace the new cam chain you have to remove the bolt, is it needed to put it from the begining? To remove the old camchain? Is it not enough to put it when you have to align everything with the new chain?

[@JockeSelin]

@@pmejuto sorry what bolt are you referring to?

[@pmejuto]

@@JockeSelin I mean the locking pin, sorry

[@JockeSelin]

@@pmejuto Things are a bit hazy, it's been a while... I think you need the pin in to undo something, like the cams? Or something. There was a reason, but without going out to the garage to read the manual, I can't remember. I think it'll become apparent when you're in there mucking about. Sorry about the vague reply. 😞

[@PetiLouis]

Good job dude ! Can you watch the video on my channel (entitled "Jeu chaîne distribution F800S 2006") where I filmed my cam chain on my F800S 2006 and tell me what you think about it please? mine seems less worn than yours and I hesitate to change it now or wait a little longer ... my bike has 50 000 kms. thanks again PS: sorry for my english i'm french :)

[@JockeSelin]

Votre anglais est beaucoup mieux que mon français! Sadly I think your cam chain needs changing. That's not how it should be and it might lead to worse things happening. I would guess that the bike would work fine, but if something went wrong, it would be a much bigger disaster. Mechanical things do not heal by time. ;) Hope you get it fixed and that you get many happy kilometres together! Bonne équitation

[@PetiLouis]

Thanks for you reply, I precise on my video the engine is not on the TDC. When it is on the TDC the cam chain is perfectly tense. For the link that you have riveting on the new chain, you use the original or you bought another (the link with mark M) ? if so, where did you buy it? Or you have bought a cam chain not oem and the link was provided with? Last question why you remove the clutch carter ? Thank you

[@JockeSelin]

The chain is tight when on TDC because of all the tension put on by the valve springs. Full information is provided in the AdvRider thread linked in the description. The chain is OEM BMW, with a new master link bought separately (I think we bought 5 master links just to be sure). Master link is standard size and specifications are in the AdvRider forum thread (my username is TheJoker). I can't remember exactly why the clutch cable was removed, but I think it was because it was obstructing taking something off, maybe the cam cover?! You'll see it when you do it. Good luck!