Factory Five Roadster Build 30

[@user-hv4vx5gb1d]

Not just a job it an adventure have fun

[@ProfessorOzone]

Four comments. 1. I've seen guys on youtube use a sort of cheese grater type of file or block to take down the highest spots of filler BEFORE it is fully cured, but when it's close to cured. Then they wait for it to cure fully before sanding. I have never done this, but wish I had when I did some filler work. So much sanding. Might save you some time. 2. I agree with you about the lip around the wheel arches. It looks more like a production car with a larger lip. I believe what might catch you on that is the tire may rub. You might want to put the wheels on and see if there will be interference there when the wheel travels up. 3. Great idea using the foam inside the doors. Helps prevent that "oil can" effect, if that's such a thing with fiberglass. 4. I live in Florida, so the thought that 40 degrees F is spring is absolutely hilarious to me. I might actually avoid going into my garage at 40F, because it would be too cold. You people really are Mainiacs! LOL.

[@randomwerks3763]

Thanks for the comments!! I was able to go at the fiberglass a bit for it was fully cured with a grater but didn’t have great luck. I kept digging too deep and it actually created more work. And yes, 40 degrees was a treat! It was so nice to have the doors open!!

[@donaldegreco]

You the MAN enjoy your creativity and attention to detail.

[@haak60]

i put 1/4" fine line tape around wheel openings and sanded back to tape. driver side front opening is a little thin in one spot will have to add material

[@livinonklandathu]

I agree on the wheel well openings. I left about 3/16 material there, I think it looks better. I believe the reason for the big trim standard is tire clearance, I can see that but it was not an issue with the little extra material. Great videos, your ideas and creativity are awesome!

[@randomwerks3763]

Hey Thanks. And right back at you-- I've been following your build for a while now, and I've learned a lot from watching your progress. Yes, I don't suspect I'll have a tire rubbing issue, and I really do like the way it looks with a bit more of a rolled edge.

[@roberthunter9368]

Super cool!!!

[@randomwerks3763]

Thanks!

[@markotompuri340]

Good work

[@randomwerks3763]

Thanks!

[@wild_bluyonder843]

Filling the doors with an expanding foam is a great idea. It's bound to give the doors a more solid feel and sound when they close. I noticed a vertical lighting arrangement around 14:00 on your vid. Is that for supplemental lighting or primarily for video production? One cannot have too much lighting in the shop.

[@randomwerks3763]

Yes, the foam really did make a big difference-- actually bigger than I had imagined it would. The vertical light is for supplemental lighting. My ceilings are 14', so the light source is too high and it creates lots of shadows. This ground level vertical light has been a great addition. It's a Harbor Freight LED shop light ($20) that I bolted to a piece of tubing. It can slide up and down on the tube to be at ground level or above me by about 6-feet. The base is an old brake rotor that I welded onto the tube. I can imagine this will be a huge help when I move into painting the car.

[@kevinwells768]

Just did this on bonnet and boot on my car, doors next. These had too much flex in them so I was afraid the filler work might cracked and fall off later. Took several fills with extra holes to allow air and foam to find their way to fill the whole space.

[@007_jg8]

Are you using a light body filler like Rage Gold? Do you use any harder fiberglass filler ? I have seen mention of using a hard fiberglass filler first and then the regular body filler and I am wondering if that is necessary. Great videos!

[@randomwerks3763]

Yes anytime I need to fill more than 3/16” I will go to a reinforced filler and rough sand it and let it cure completely, then light weight over that. I also used short strand reinforced filler to form the shapes on the top corners of the doors.

[@007_jg8]

@@randomwerks3763 Thanks. That makes sense and settles my mind on an overall approach. I see others advising on the need to widen out the mold joint areas that are sanded down so that feathering the filler is easier and your are corroborating that guidance. Thanks!!

[@americandon1212]

don’t use a hard block sander on the rounded areas use a flexible foam block

[@randomwerks3763]

That hard block was just to knock off the ridges. I then went to a variety of soft block. Towards the end of the video I cover the types of blocks I ended up using