Fall 2021 Haute Couture ROAST (Schiaparelli & Iris Van Herpen)

Haute Couture has come and gone once again, and in the first part of a four-part series, we will be breaking down the collections from Iris Van Herpen's eponymous line and Daniel Roseberry's latest Haute Couture collection for the house of Schiaparelli. Iris Van Herpen's collection titled "Earthrise" utilized recycled plastic spheres, silicone patches, and structured draping to give the viewer the idea of descent from Earth, while not feeling too extraterrestrial. She worked with artists like Rogan Brown & Casey Curran to develop their works into dresses and gowns that transcend traditional Haute Couture notions. And who can forget a skydiving finale gown?
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[@rayofblacklight9910]

I thought that beautiful "coral reef" necklace was actually representing the bronchi in the lungs ...

[@null8104]

It is, it even says it on their website lol it’s lungs

[@RealElongatedMuskrat]

Yeah when I saw it I immediately thought of that bronchial cast that one guy coughed up (it was a blood clot in the shape of the bronchi). It looked exactly like the necklace, very beautiful if a bit odd to see. I can't remember where it was in the world but it's definitely floating around reddit somewhere.

[@jennystirling5316]

I think it's intended to be both? Coral is kinda the lungs of the sea so it kinda works.

[@christianurena510]

They are lungs…I mean, I love Luke but he got dumb with this one 🤣🤣🤣

[@miguelcruz2941]

I thought it was obvious it was the lungs with how many bodyparts they have incorporated lately to the designs.

[@ChuffedLemon]

I literally screamed when I saw Roseberry's Schiaparelli and IvH's exquisite collections drop. THEY ARE TOO GOOD AND ALL THAT I'VE EVER WANTED. This. Is. Couture.

[@ChuffedLemon]

Also, seeing people's confused and angry reactions to Bella wearing the lung necklace (with the black wool cutout gown) at Cannes was incredibly entertaining, and she carried both beautifully. This is why I love art, fashion, and models who understand the assignment.

[@kamilareeder1493]

Let's team up and rob their warehouse lol 👌

[@isaacyang249]

Agreed, but in my personal opinion, I’d add Guo Pei too

[@jayantgera8091]

@@ChuffedLemon so true people were mocking her. These simple people dont know about art and fashion and def not about elsa and her vision. Roseberry is being himself and Elsa's son at the same time. Brilliant!

[@aspannas]

@@ChuffedLemon Yeah I saw people saying it was "offensive" that she wore something that represent lungs during a pandemic, like how fucking far are these people willing to reach just have something to hate on lmao, it's absolutely ridiculous.

[@null8104]

The “coral reef” necklace is a pair of lungs.

[@TestimentBlue]

I was SCREAMING when I heard this. Absolutely gorgeous. I just recently saw this, on KZbin, at a red carpet event. Super interesting that it's meant to be used to obscure the bear chest is brilliant.

[@SaintShion]

@@TestimentBlue same! I was like how can you not see the bronchial tubes? Lol silly. I do think Luke tends to give pieces less time than they deserve. It's like power walking a museum.

[@saulemaroussault6343]

I was very shocked bu the fact that he did NOT see it ?? Like. ?? The fact that he’s able to spot subtle references but not this puzzles me.

[@SunnyDallasRealtor]

its uh-maze-ing

[@marinalopez4978]

THANK YOU

[@medardaslocalcuisine2331]

That lung necklace during this pandemic is a moment

[@sparklejpropequeen]

Are your lungs failing after the pandemic, buy our new Schiaparelli bronchi NOW! 😩

[@heiress.]

Such a serve right????

[@lualncol]

You beat me to it- no coral reef here this is lungs

[@PTRAINBOY]

Looks like that outfit got covid ..

[@janusconner3710]

You said that, Sigrid

[@user-ww4uw7op2x]

"If Iris van Herpen isn't designing your parachute, why do you have a parachute" love that

[@angelathemoment]

As a Spanish woman I appreciate Luke so much for calling matadors toreros which is how we call them in Spain and learning the name sombrero cordobés and so on. You are doing amazing sweetie!

[@heiress.]

The lung bronchi tree necklace is already a HIT. Revolutionary.

[@EJproductionsxD]

I love how Luke catches all these amazing obscure references to old collections, historical clothing, art etc. but doesn't recognise that the necklace represents the lungs

[@babyjane4ever]

That is what we meant by lack of fashion history. This and all his reviews are a joke.

[@asd-pf4gy]

@@babyjane4ever what do you mean? they said fashion history is exactly what he's not lacking

[@worldlit1146]

Iris Van Herpen's designs should be part of a welcome package for aliens.

[@Shyknit]

Idk I feel like we'd be setting them up for disappointment if we gave them that out the gate and then they saw that we basically had nothing else like it lol

[@aaarrriic]

@@Shyknit lol fs, we need to like give them normal clothes firsts and then BAM. Iris Van Herpen.

[@Shyknit]

@@aaarrriic plot twist would be if they said "oh we know her, big fan of her work she makes stuff for us all the time" lol

[@shlkyc02]

The jeans look from Schiaparelli, with the backwards presentation (see the pockets and leather "label" tag placement), is completely genius as a statement, when you look at the sort of body-patchwork surrealism that runs throughout the whole work.

[@h.88]

The "lung necklace" is an example of how humanity and nature are intertwined and how often we forget that we, as humans, are a part of nature. We view it as outsiders, detached from its phenomena and power. This piece, in my opinion, reminds us of how nature is truly at our core, when our bodies imitate it's characteristics, that's when you know that you are indeed also nature. The lungs remind us of tree roots, and how both are supposed to sustain a life. Life imitates art and nature is the most perfect art form.

[@MsDessybee]

Yes, yes YES to the point about Iris’ collaboration with artists!! Her work has been the subject of several exhibitions at art museums and she could honestly be considered an artist herself. Folks gotta stop playing with her!

[@lauremarchildon7312]

The horn like straps that are a reminder of bull horn's is such a nice detail.

[@cinemaocd1752]

Yeah I mean Man Ray was obsessed with bulls too...

[@acidangel5112]

I think the necklace having a multitude of possible meanings is the whole point. It could be a tree, lungs or coral. It effectively highlights the interconnectedness of everything. It's breathtaking

[@marinaliz3849]

I would LOVE to see Doja Cat in Iris Van Herpen

[@lordcat1958]

Same!! She would look absolutely breathtaking ❤️‍🔥

[@dawnguinto]

I think doja's weird aesthetic sensibilities blend well with IVH's vision

[@marinaliz3849]

And all the concept of Planet Her!!!!! C'mon!!!!!

[@lusaolsen179]

She has a pic on her insta of her in a ivh gown. Part of the Planet Her photoshoots

[@lordcat1958]

@@lusaolsen179 omg she looks so gorgeous in it 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍

[@RealElongatedMuskrat]

Iris is one of the most exciting and innovative designer currently working imo. Her mind 😩🙏✨

[@rontibm1621]

That coral reef was actually Lungs (but only its ducts)

[@jgreen61870]

The black dresses you keep mentioning have “tendrils” seem to be bulls no? As a reference to the matadors in the collection.

[@msaor7782]

I thought so too!! Being myself an spaniard I see a lot of bull fighting references in this collection 🤔

[@mnels5214]

Yeah I agree, it looked to me to be bulls horns

[@AndromedaChace]

Exactly. It's horns and the boots are hoof-like.

[@catharticmemefairy2088]

he mentioned toreros which is apparently what spaniards call them (acc to another comment )

[@msaor7782]

@@catharticmemefairy2088 we call them also “matador”

[@abhaynandodkar8997]

It’s actually the bronchial tree, that is present inside the lungs, these carry air into where gas exchange happens (I.e alveoli)....not coral reef

[@elizajurd8622]

I'm just glad I live in the same time period as Iris Van Herpen.

[@gloriac.266]

Schiaparelli AND IVH??? We eating good today

[@theorem7965]

Iris stays winning honestly. Breathtaking collection and one of her best imo. Ugh, her mindddd.

[@danamorch]

I love Schiaparelli. gold embroidery and gold jewels mixed with abstract and contrasting colours makes it one of my favourites brands El sombrero cordobés is used more in flamenco rather in bullfighting, I think people who are in horses in bullfights wore them, and if you want to know the name for the matador hat is called montera

[@bijyxd]

God this schiaparelli collection is so gorgeous!! This is the kind of opulent creativity that has been missing in a lot of couture recently (I'm looking at you maria)

[@sanxsana3270]

Absolutely love the clothes from this season! It's so amazing to see what an actual fashion genius can think of Hopefully I will have the privilege to own some of these pieces of art some day.

[@emilyfriedlander3992]

I would love to see IvH make works for plus size models. I think it could give her a whole new avenue for playing with shapes and dimension. Also I want to see people who look more like me in her stuff 🤷‍♀️

[@SH-wk6po]

This is exactly what I want from the fashion industry!! This deep level of thought, creativity and collaboration. 👏👏👏

[@augustusleo6704]

I’m just here to see however possible Luke can turn this into a roast

[@gusc4760]

I thought the crazy straps were a reference to the bulls horns

[@andreabala9657]

Iris Van Herpen and Schiaparelli never disappoint!!! These collections were really refreshing to see instead of the basic stuff we get

[@bellaluna9572]

I just love these two designers, so fun, creative, innovative.

[@rosanilebron1566]

Both collections are exquisite. So much creativity, inteligence, knowledge and talent bringing something magical to the fashion world. Van Herpen is out of this world.

[@Heedy770]

Really appreciate the prompt and detailed reviews of current amazing collections! Could you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do more coverage of historically significant fashion shows for important designers...i.e. Azzedine Alaia's shows, Jean Paul Gaultier shows, early 2000s Chalayan shows, Paco Rabanne show, Yohji Yamamoto shows, Gianni Versace shows, Issey Miyake shows, Tom Ford's Gucci shows, Marc Jacob's LV shows, Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga shows...Iconic pieces from the legends like Pierre Cardin & Cristobal Balenciaga...if not full review shows, then more like an overall "highlights" pieces of their careers..PLEASE!!

[@js-ur6yd]

yesyesyes this would be amazing

[@dbcigf2847]

Holy moley Luke! Your writing/script on this vid is incredible and amazing

[@thomasfoley8287]

you know so much about fashion for such a young 'un. You are truly amazing. Thank you so much for your insight. You ROCK!

[@scorpyniko7416]

Fell in love with Iris van Herpen collection. I probably would look at this collection every day. The Schiaparelli collection was interesting. Not a fan of gold, if they changed to silver, I probably would sale my soul to the devil to have one dress of Schiaparelli or IVH!

[@sverigeaao5196]

If I had money I would wear only Iris van Herpen.

[@rosalieo5045]

Same!!

[@gatorgirl1720]

Same 😍😍

[@bryngarrity5548]

that white jumpsuit and then the purple dress are GORGEOUS. I'm a size 16 and i would love to wear them if they came in plus sizes.

[@blackcat6508]

Bella Hadid wore that bronchi Scaparelli dress at the Canes film festival and looked stunning

[@rememberpickles]

I just spent 3 hours fixing some split pants by hand and for me it was meticulous work. I can't imagine the detail and design and labor that went into these looks--high fashion really is an amazing synthesis of craftmanship and art.

[@tiffanycannon8167]

Ok but I need to see Halle Bailey in Iris Van Herpen for The Little Mermaid premiere

[@valeriarossini543]

omg your mind

[@Rubiecat]

god these collections are so good... they should be put in museums already

[@Becca11389]

iris van herpen is just so amazing, every year im blown away

[@Heedy770]

Woww...the tape measure like embroidery of the lapel on the schiaparelli jacket was such a clever detail that you noticed!!

[@chrissengemmill6024]

Could the "tendrils" be a reference to bull horns? which ties in to the matador theme?

[@vinnie906]

I read "Schiaparelli & Iris Van Herpen" and thought to myself "Oh this is gonna be a GOOD ONE!!!!"

[@peakdelvalle197]

I saw some stills from a 2005 Christian LaCroix runway show on IG earlier, and remembered that HauteLeMode is how I got into vintage couture and modern fashion history to begin with. Loving these current fashion analyses, but I'm dying for you to dig back into historical/ vintage runway looks

[@fabienneroure9995]

Thank you Luke for another great video! Iris Van Herpen's collection is exquisite and I would love to wear all these beautiful dresses! Love the big flower on your t-shirt🌸💜

[@jennystirling5316]

I think the schapparelli rose dress is inspired by a specific Magritte painting who was a really popular surrealist

[@Lolzadoodle8484]

If IVH and Schiaparelli could be my entire wardrobe, thanks. IVH got me into fashion - I'm always dreaming about the day I get to go beyond seeing her work in museums/videos, but get to try a piece on. Everything is such a work of art.

[@jmhh3264]

My greatest accomplishment of my life was I somehow managed to find and buy a pair of pants by IVH. I have no idea where I will wear them, I'd be turned away at the entrance of any place that would be worthy of wearing them to, but I'm damn overjoyed to potentially have the opportunity.

[@Lolzadoodle8484]

@@jmhh3264 wow!!!! So lucky! Hoping to get the opportunity one day, even if it's renting a piece for an event. I've found some gems from Proenza, Sandy Liang, Rosie Assoulin, Helmut Lang etc via thrift or consignment and for great prices, but ik for IVH it's gonna be a larger price tag. 😭 Maybe one day!!

[@AaronSKZ]

Oh my god I love Iris Van Herpen’s designs! It’s like hyper modern futurism meets organics/nature. Soooooo captivating

[@KingAenti]

I think the "coral" necklace is actually a lung or rather the inner system of the lung (don't know how to call that in english)

[@RealElongatedMuskrat]

I thinks it's called the bronchi, but I may be wrong!

[@merrymachiavelli2041]

@@RealElongatedMuskrat I think the term is alveoli. Bronchi are the main branches of the respiratory tract that get air into the lungs, alveoli are the air sacks themselves, which look very 'bubble-y'

[@RealElongatedMuskrat]

@@merrymachiavelli2041 AHH there you go, thank you for sharing! The more you know ✨❤️

[@redranger7731]

@@RealElongatedMuskrat you're right. it actually branch into smaller bronchi called bronchioles. Alveoli are air sacs located at each end of bronchioles. Alveoli are circular in shape. So you're right, it's bronchi-bronchioles 😊

[@redranger7731]

@@RealElongatedMuskrat you can try to search "bronchial tree" and the results are similar to the necklace's structure 😊

[@TheGrifhinx]

IVH's look 3 really reminds me of an haute couture level kind of Plato's Atlantis... now I miss the man...

[@tiagomatos8293]

Luke please make the Cannes Festival's looks ranting video! we need this! please! 🙏🏻

[@joaquinarandaa]

I’ve been waiting for this one 😌

[@hautelemode]

took a minute but hopefully the rest will be out ASAP!

[@tomweisser6203]

C'est magnifique!!! The most exciting and beautiful collections I've seen this year. This is Haute Couture at its best.

[@Applepoisoneer]

I am absolutely dying for that draped black dress with the tendrils at the front. It's giving me mad Villainess vibes, and I adore that. And a lot of the VanHerpan pieces seem very insect-inspired, and I can't get enough!

[@amyliataylor]

I’m working hard to buy me some Iris Van Herpen 😍 she is beyond !!✨

[@miragedemon8450]

Will you be doing a review of the new Maison Margiela collection? Like, the revolutionary aspect of filming a story and creating garments based on it is truly interesting and I would love to hear your opinion.

[@jcnorton55]

Both houses had a mind-blowing show. Such a good F/W from many from what I've seen. I even enjoyed Fendi who I've never warmed to, except their leather goods. Curious about what the inspiration was for Fendi. . . . and then there was Dior. Gurrrrrrl, I can't wait for your take on Dior !

[@dawnsalois]

love the eye motifs and especially the eye earrings.

[@catsinq5726]

I almost fainted at Roseberry's black and deep yellow/orange/gold dress at 12:19. It is GORGEOUS. I don't really know what to call that color but it blew me away.

[@waynem7634]

Excellent review of both of these exceptional designers! Thank you. I agree with the previous post that Daniel was referencing the bronchi in the lungs in what was referred to in the video as coral reef.

[@avantikapathania22]

Watching your videos is like therapy to me.

[@HY-qn2es]

Schiaparelli is SO GOOD !!!

[@janedavenport]

I absolutely enjoyed every second of your walk-through of these collections. Thank you for the research into the influences❤️ and historic references. Bravo!

[@AntonioOliveira-ed5yt]

I'm very excited about the next video, because that Chanel show was... something lol. Me and my mom were shooketh that they had the nerve to approve that collection

[@roothaunt.]

I'm so excited I was wondering what you'd have to say about Schiaparelli!

[@aquarian6004]

It’s not a coral. Its the branches of the respiratory organ. (You can check the general shape of the bronchial tubes and its bronchioles)

[@manryhood]

Everytime I see an IvH collection, I always dread that the next one would be repetitive or even boring, like, because the last collection is so spectacular, they'd run out of creative juice or something, or maybe because their strength is at one thing, they'll just stick to that. I've felt the same about brands like Marchesa (back then), Ralph&Russo and Guo Pei. But boy, the team at IvH has a way outdoing themselves. Every. Single. Time. Kudos to them. A bunch of geniuses.

[@victoriadiesattheend.8478]

Guo Pei never disappoints!

[@Heedy770]

As having studied the human body, the "coral reef necklace" rather looks like the trachea, bronchi & bronchioles...which would not be far from the place on the body where it currently lies...google bronchioles

[@hopegold883]

This video made my day. The delicious, original art, the incisive commentary, and just the right amount of wit 👩‍🍳 😘

[@yamerooo3383]

Someday i'll own this piece 23:02, this is literally the most beautiful and elegant gown i've seen.

[@cinemaocd1752]

Iris Van Herpen creating fashion for a future alien invasion takes the phrase "we welcome our alient overlords" to a new level.

[@wplants9793]

As an gardener adding new irises to my collection every year, IVH designs are like literal Iris flowers. In both color and form. Seriously every single piece looks directly lifted from the actual flowers. The balance of upward framing and downward flow - like an Iris. The color palates. Even the cut outs or scales are exactly like the drops of color on the flowers. Iris of course references rainbow 🌈, Iris was a messenger goddess between heavens and earth. Between the worlds for sure. My youngest child is named Iris so I’m biased 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@dwayne8273]

I was waiting for the schiaparelli review

[@barbc7211]

Your knowledge of each piece is incredible ❤really loved this

[@cindyinnew]

Love love love the Schiaparelli designs by Roseberry. Elsa would love it

[@aishahb8336]

IVH just makes the most beautiful wearable art!

[@truefalse934]

Luke have you seen the designs by Pyer Moss [a black designer] yet?? What you do think about the collection and the inspiration behind it?

[@hautelemode]

i was at the show! but pyer moss and fendi will be the last collections reviewed because of their time slots in the schedule!

[@holi6293]

So we are not going to talk about the Scaparelli jeans worn with the butt in the front???

[@miagilaani5853]

The earrings at 4:00 are omG 😍😍😍

[@lucindadordley5469]

Schiaparelli's has hit an excellent stride since 2019 and Daniel's work has been drawing more attention to such an already storied and revered house. Bravo.

[@ricardoelizondot]

As a non fashion person that enjoys watching your videos every once in while and learn about a subject unfamiliar to me, this is exactly what comes to my mind when thinking about “fashion”… beautiful, extravagant, but wearable.

[@Heothbremel]

So glorious! I'm in favor of upcycling into these beautiful pieces...

[@aimee-janeparsons1817]

can you please react to maneskin's style? they are really starting to push the boundaries of gender within fashion and spoke about it in their vanity fair interview in a really lovely way. Plus they always look amazing in their outfits

[@dulcieparker7425]

So Schiaparelli turned their comments off ,so here I am .Altho shockingly not my bag baby...mega,mega, mega inspiring!!!

[@Emnms68]

Wow the other fashion houses need to take lessons from Roseberry on how to stay true to the legacy of the brand while creating something new and interesting. This collection is a masterclass in how to do it. Well done.👏

[@Emnms68]

And, of course, Iris Van Herpen’s work is as stunningly gorgeous and insanely intricate as always.

[@cv2919]

Iris is hands down the most talented designer in my opinion!!!

[@firewordsparkler]

I love IVH's collection so much. It's gorgeous.

[@giolinastamouli253]

I love your critique and history facts, you are always so informed!

[@sofiayukimura1467]

IM IN LOVE WITH THIS COLLECTIONS so excited to watch the video!

[@BltchErica]

I was thinking that Iris' dresses are very reminiscent of McQueen, and then he mentioned she worked there. I wonder if they are references.

[@rainecormier2935]

After such disasters from Chanel and Dior for '21, Schiaparelli house is giving me LIFE this fall That bronchi necklace will be in yellow gold miniatures by Christmas

[@nancyenjay7966]

These Iris Van Herpen looks are incredibly and this video review is excellent but definitely check out the collection video; seeing the dresses move, is breathtaking.

[@delia_watercolors]

Schiaparelli's haute couture finale bridal dress told me the entire life story of the mystery woman whose wearing it, as well as what she is feeling now- in the moment. So much symbolism. One could write an essay on that piece alone!

[@lazyperfectionist3978]

The eye motifs mixed with all that gold embroidery and asymmetrical two-tone fabrics by Schiaparelli is right up my alley because of how much it reminds me of those biblically accurate angels (maybe not the asymmetric, but definitely the gold and eyes) which is awesome to me personally, makes me want to make some inspired fabric items (as clothing for me, for a doll, maybe a non-apparel item, who knows!)

[@lubnasaleh2858]

The coral reef necklace looks more like bronchial tree, and is very appropriate given the placement, I can only see it as that

[@spiderganon]

I saw Iris Van herpen and my finger moved on its own

[@8happyperson]

those pieces were all so incredibly beautiful especially the last few like WOW