Fanatec CSL DD DIY Boost kit for under 50USD guide (Tested and Running)

Welcome to my channel,
This is my guide on how to make a DIY Boost kit for the Fanatec CSL DD wheel. Please keep in mind this may affect your warranty. Don't hold me responsible for any damages you may cause to your wheel base. I can only show that it works properly with my items. Please keep in mind this adapter is for 110 volt outlets, you will need your respective voltage for the country you live in.
Donations are always welcome. They will be put back into the channel to get better streaming capabilities. I really appreciate it!
To donate please follow this link.
tinyurl.com/hno...
PC specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7-9900k
Corsair H110i GT Extreme 280mm Water Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Ultra Gaming-CF
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB@3200Mhz
Video Card: Gigabyte GTX1080
Mouse: Roccat Tyon
Keyboard: Corsair K70
Q802USB mixer
AT2020 XLR Microphone
Oculus Quest 2 VR Headset
Sim Racing Rig
DIY Sim Cockpit
Fanatec CSL DD
N7 Shifter
Simforge Mark 1 Pedals
Mazda3 Seat

[@44PalmsWoodCo]

I purchased the same items he shows and have been running it for the last 3 weeks and it woks perfect. It cost a total of $47 for everything off amazon. Runs much cooler than the 5nm factory box and no problems at all. Thank you for the great idea.

[@doubletapgaming1189]

I just did this upgrade with the same items and it worked great! Thank you! There is a huge increase in force with the boost kit, I love it!

[@Triple88a]

Glad to hear others having success as well :)

[@vinny9152]

Haha I just got my CSL DD yesterday so I decided to revisit KZbin to see if anyone has tried it yet... thanks for sharing. I'm going with the MEAN WELL LRS-200-24 power supply once I'm ready for the torque upgrade.

[@justinsymonds8470]

Thank you for making this video so easy to follow, I just did this today and it really transforms the experience 8nm is so much better than 5, more detail everywhere and I can’t believe how much money I saved! 😊

[@dctalon82]

Hey i literally JUST got done with my 1st race with the DIY csl dd boost kit i followed from this write up and man im HAAAAPY Im glad i stumbled on ur vid!!! I ordered exact same parts and i was done in lime 5 min and im blown away at what this thing can produce thanks alot and if anyone hesitant reading comments dont be if u follow it EXACTLY u will be loving it

[@plasmaquark]

Have you tried ACC , set mine up yesterday and on ACC it blew my mind how good it felt. I had a Trustmaster F which cost me £100 10yrs ago. Arms in bits today.lol

[@burtpanzer]

I'd say they did well in taking over the DD market at $350, as many 1000's like myself were unwilling customers at 1200, but in knowing this could sabotage their high-end units, came up with this 2 level power scheme hoping to reclaim some of their lost revenue... well, instead of selling tons of them at 30 or 40 bucks, people like you and I said, "No frigging way am I dropping $150 on this!" so, thank you, Tripzter.

[@jonprophet1378]

For anyone wondering. Still works. Did it last night. Little more hackery than what he did. I'll have to redo mine.

[@rars0n]

As soon as I saw that the "boost kit" was a standard power brick, I immediately thought that it would be easy to make my own for much cheaper. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the voltage and the connector Fanatec was using (I don't have a CSL DD yet). I'm a little surprised they went with such a common connector, but that's a good thing because they're so easily sourced. I like Fanatec's products but selling a 180W power supply for $150 is a little outrageous.

[@e.r.6147]

Its a big ass cash grab 😂

[@e.r.6147]

Fanatec is trolling ppl with that power supply

[@rars0n]

@@e.r.6147 They're also trolling with their PS4 support, as their official PS4 wheel (the GT DD Pro) doesn't even support all force feedback PS4 games. Their website doesn't specifically state this, either. I guess it's up to the user to figure out after they've dropped $700+ on the wheel.

[@e.r.6147]

@@rars0n 😮 savage

[@TooManyCatsRyan]

Yes, outrageous indeed - and I just read on Fanatec's website their claim that only their PSU will work because it's specially engineered. It's quite dishonest.

[@attackrabbit712]

Was going to buy a premade boost kit from China for half the price but it was 21 day delivery so I bit the bullet and ordered the parts for this instead. Made it over the weekend and it has all gone perfectly. Thanks for the tutorial 🤟

[@ViaticalTree]

Thanks man! Just ordered the parts. I have a GT DD Pro on preorder so I might as well get my “boost kit” made and ready to go.

[@ricco6023]

gonna pre-oder the DD Pro too! Have fun!

[@irlantiisti2810]

You have already received DD PRO or are waiting for pre-order?

[@irlantiisti2810]

You can just solder the adapter correctly and connect it to the original 90wat 24v power supply and you will get 8Nm and consumption up to 65wat from the power supply. For a place of 5 nm and a consumption of 40 watts.

[@ViaticalTree]

@@irlantiisti2810 I'm waiting for it. Not sure what you mean about using the original power supply.

[@ricco6023]

@@ViaticalTree I canceled myn to order the expres one lol, dont have the ability to wait longer xD

[@brandonchappell1535]

OK, So now ive recovered from my mini heart attack, i'll take a moment to explain an issue i had after doing this mod !! Thanks for the excellent guide, way better than paying Scamatec's ridiculous prices !! But once i made my adapter and plugged it in, Turned on the base, the control panel flashed up for a second, then said it couldnt find the wheel, and fanatec have a list of items to check, not to mention windows was saying USB Malfunction, so at this point i was convinced i fried something. i tried reinstalling drivers, "repair driver" in the CP, cycling the modes of the base, restarting pc, etc and still wouldnt work, then the last thing on fanatecs list was try a different USB port, then when i did, taadaa, it worked !! Was definitely sweating for a min, im in Australia, so 240v, so my adapters a bit different (still 24v, 200w, 8.33A) but seems to be working ok now, definitely much stronger feedback, so will have to tweak some settings, but hopefully this helps someone?!! Cost me $45aud very happy... now lol

[@Triple88a]

I've been running mine like this for over a year now. not a single issue.

[@brandonchappell1535]

@@Triple88a yeh i think it will be fine now, ive had a few restarts, and all works good, but was tense for sure!! Thanks again for the idea man !!

[@bryce2113]

Going to give this a shot. Already have lots of modular computer PSU cables laying around and this seems like a perfect solution. I was looking at cheap switching PSUs before this but never thought of a 24V LED driver until now. Good thinking.

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for your comment. It's definitely very easy to do. Just confirm you wired everything properly with a volt meter.

[@MobileTechGaming]

Just ordered my csl Dd which is due to ship by 2nd of January. I will absolutely follow this guide as the cost of the power supply being almost 50% of the device worth is a bit much of a stretch, they could have sold it at a smaller markup ( I understand profits are needed) of £90 or something like that and I think that would be alot more justifible imo.

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for checking out my video, All i can say is it's working perfect. So far i've gotten nearly a month of solid game play, no issues at all, works perfect. Roughly 200 game hours so far.

[@robeirinhoramirez]

One year later, how have you been? I just ordered the parts from amazon, this week I assemble it.

[@meamjustme]

Thnx mate. I knew i would some day buy a csl dd. But no way i will pay 150EUR for a simple PSU. So this was decided upgrade a year before i ordered one. XD Yesterday i got my CLS DD and today the PSU stuff came in. Your drawing of the pin layout really helped out here. Could not find it anywhere else. (Probably has been posted but i stopped looking here for obvious reasons :P ) Had one evening on 5NM and today on 8NM. The 8NM does give what i expected. 5NM i could not get the settings anywhere i wanted. Started to clip before you really had any force.

[@pmattarazzo]

Thank you Atanas. Just plugged in the 300w PSU to my CSL DD and I can't believe how much difference 8nm is over 5nm. Your tutorial was straight forward and I don't think I would have tried it without it. Like a different wheel for $60. 🥂 Just ran 10 laps around Barcelona and my next investment will probably be gloves trying to hold onto the wheel 😂

[@Triple88a]

I'm glad to see it worked well for you as well. I'm starting to understand why people are using gloves. Coming from a Logitech, the extra force feedback is definitely noticed and felt.

[@SimRacingVeteran]

I wear gloves because I don’t want my hand sweat crudding up my shit. But the extra grip the gloves offer also helps immensely.

[@e.r.6147]

300W? Your probably overdriving the DD that’s probably 10nm now 🤣

[@ali09gaming58]

@@e.r.6147 lol thats what i wanna know, is more than 180w better ? will it give it more efficient performance at higher loads and consistent higher loads for the csl and will it over burn it or blow a fuse or something in the csl dd eventually ? i mean how much long term higher wattage can it handle ?

[@e.r.6147]

@@ali09gaming58 thats beyond this guys pay grade 🤣

[@Ganymede569]

Dude, just put the affiliated links of those two items in the description. It makes it easier to find the products, AND it works better than the donation link.

[@Sorarse]

I don't have a CSL DD (yet) but it is definitely on the wish list. I too was surprised at the price Fanatec were asking for their boost kit, given that it is only a power brick, so this video has been saved for when I eventually purchase the DD and will be how I boost it for the full performance.

[@Jedi_Beasticles]

i just build this today, can confirm it works. i used the exact power supply in the video and just some random atx power 4 pin with the correct "pointed" style orientation of the pins

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for checking out my video. Glad it was helpful. Cheers, enjoy.

[@uluv2c8]

Still working good?

[@Triple88a]

@@uluv2c8 absolutely, not a single issue. I have probably 500 hours or so between the games i've played on it.

[@Jedi_Beasticles]

@@uluv2c8 i honestly almost forgot i did this. so yes lol

[@ljprevo]

Did this , working perfect !!!

[@cory7876]

I did this with the same psu and it works! (us 110v)

[@DeejayJeanP]

Well shit. I definitely didn't think this would work, I soldered for the second time in my life today, but it worked out! Got the same stuff, just a slightly different cable, but it works, thanks dude!

[@pdubbs128]

Nice, found this after ordering the exact same parts. Glad to see it should work when I receive my DD Pro. Cheers man!

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for checking out my video, It works very well. I use it 3-4 times a week 3-4 hours each day. Not a single issue.

[@Poelie1996]

The special thing about the original one, is that it doesnt void the waranty. Idk if they can see if it breaks with an aftermarket one tho

[@filipruml]

I'm going to do the same as that way I also get the original power supply which might come handy for another project. Thanks

[@whole_caveman_or_lions_den]

Thank you, this PSU looks decent, might try this after I get my GT DD Pro and I find 5nm isn't enough, though it might be enough for a beginning as I'm coming from a weak 2,1nm G29.

[@Triple88a]

It really depends on the style of games you play. I've noticed that grip racing is a lot more fun with the full 100% on 8nm but when i'm doing drifting and rally i go down to 40-50% so i dont have to wrestle the wheel on quick turns.

[@whole_caveman_or_lions_den]

@@Triple88a yeah I hear multiple people say the 8nm is worth it, but a PSU isn't worth 150 to me, but thanks for the wiring info though, would have to test the original PSU or look up the wiring, but that'll save me some time, but I saw you used a 110v PSU, I need a 220/230v one, so I'll need to find something else but still thanks for the info! And I'll mostly be playing GT7 with it and maybe I'll get ACC for PC

[@ertugrulbae46]

Another video said that this has a lot of EMI/RFI and mentioned something about ferrites and shielding to help with that. But is it the wire to wire connection that result in interference.. or is it the wire ends?

[@BTouch454]

I hit the like on your tiny channel. Questions though, I'm on PS5, so is it still the sample equipment? Also, since on PS5 I am getting the DD Pro instead of CSL, does that matter?

[@Triple88a]

Hello, Thank you so much. I have the regular wheel base so i cant test it from google search it shows to be the same part number.

[@ViaticalTree]

In case you’re still wondering this works perfectly for the GT DD Pro. Been running it for almost 3 years now.

[@nicholase6552]

I didn't see if the power supply is also 7.5A. Is it?

[@Triple88a]

The power supply i'm using is a 200 watt power adapter which is 8.3 amp. A little extra is fine. The voltage is the important part and that is 24 volts, same as the Fanatec boost kit power adapter.

[@BadSmmr]

That’s for this video. Any issues ever arise? Based on the comments, looks like there haven’t been any.

[@Triple88a]

Hello, I made this video long ago.. My wheel has been running fine the entire time at max torque settings. No issues to report.

[@RocKzDG]

Hey thanks for the video and the diagram. I'm planning on doing a similar thing but I'm wondering if I should be considering AMP capabilities of the PSU? Also, what gauge of wire for the extension? (i am pretty noob with electric stuff)

[@kevo641]

Where do the white wires go, and or connect to? I assume the power supply that plugs in the wall? And do you just discard the 5 Nm power brick, or run in succession? Thx! Great video, glad I found it!

[@Triple88a]

Hello. That's correct, the white wires go to the power supply. You can see them at 4:36. The 5nm power brick is in storage unused.

[@kevo641]

@@Triple88a Thanks again!

[@guitarman2134568]

Just ordered this stuff. My wheel gets here Monday. Thanks for sharing, can't wait to give it a shot!

[@DeejayJeanP]

How did it work out for you? I just my stuff, about to put everything together

[@mountaindew267]

Seeing it's just a 4 pin, it makes me wonder if it would work off of my PC power supply since I got a 1300w evga unit on clearance and my pc doesn't use nearly that much.

[@Triple88a]

You need a 24 volt adapter, pc power supplies are 12 volts. I know some have a -12 v line but i'm not sure if you can combine -12 with +12 to get a 24 volt total.

[@mountaindew267]

I figured there would be some reason why not. I went ahead and bought the parts you suggested. Thank you for the info!@@Triple88a

[@Adonisletsplay]

Молодец мужик! Я удивлён, что их ещё на Aliexpress не продают

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for your comment. Yeah give it a month and they will.

[@Adonisletsplay]

@@Triple88a I'm afraid, fanatec can change something in new revisions of csl dd

[@fondoo]

Well done sir

[@don5ala]

Hi, Thanks to your tutorial I have been able to use a boost kit for more than half a price since February. Yesterday I started to play and i noticed that the power was gone. I plugged the weel to the PC and the boost kit is not recognized anymore. Do you have any idea of what can be happening? The power supply provides enough electricity to play but it looks like it's not enough. Thanks again for this amazing tuto.

[@Triple88a]

If you have a volt meter check the voltage across the nodes. My guess is your connections might have come loose.

[@don5ala]

@@Triple88a you were totally right, one of the connection was loose. Thank you very much for your help.

[@Triple88a]

@@don5ala Glad to see you got it fixed.

[@imatekjam2005]

Thanks man, much appreciated

[@dpolzer]

This DIY PS was $46 bucks delivered, Amazon Prime Next Day. Best $46 bucks I ever spent. I've had the CSL DD for over a month in my second rig with the standard PS. It was ok to good. I refused to pay $160 for a power supply, especially for a second rig. This guide, $46 bucks and 15 minutes of effort (had the 4pin cable already, add $6 if you need to buy it) and youz got a boost kit, and the wheel is knocking on my DD1's performance level. And if I were to compare dollars to dollars this CSL DD($350) with aftermarket boost kit($50) $400 total VS my DD1 at $1,200 as WAAAAY more bang for the buck. If the DD1 price has you hesitating and budget is a big concern add this DIY boost kit to a standard CSL DD and it will be the best $400 total you'll ever spend in sim racing. And I've come from Thrustmaster pre FF in the 90's to Logitech G29's to CSL Elite V1.1's to my current DD1 to this CSL DD for my second rig and if I had to do it all over again. Well I'd buy two CSL DD's make my boost Kit's : ) and get me a couple Black Friday CSL Steering Wheel P1 V2 Black Friday Edition's for $100ea and call it good! and have money left over for Pedals... Well that's a whole different topic ; ) All I can say is do it. Worst part of this whole DIY kit is its silver not black. Oh the problems I have : )

[@kelvingomersall7460]

I make connectors and use different power supplies at work all the time as I work in electronics so I know the full theory behind the PSU's and it's delivery. Here is my question though. Is there inbuilt software within the base to notice and store a difference in current should the base ever get returned under warranty? If the answer is no. I'll make myself a PSU when I get a DD Pro.

[@Triple88a]

I've seen reports from people who were using DIY adapters that have done RMAs and gotten their wheels covered without a question. We dont know if fanatec will introduce something eventually.

[@kelvingomersall7460]

@@Triple88a sorry, what is an RMA? Hopefully they don't twig on if they return under warranty. Plus power supplies are so stable these days that you'd be hard pressed to void warranty. If anything, an aftermarket PSU capable of 8A is safer than one being maxed out a 5A as the internal components are not being stressed/heat cycled as much and everything inside of an 8A PSU is built to a higher spec from scratch.

[@Triple88a]

@@kelvingomersall7460 RMA stands for Return merchandise authorization. it usually refers to the warranty process. I've seen multiple posts of people that have gotten their wheels covered under warranty There's likely a lot more but you wont see many people openly admit that they are using 3rd party 180w power supplies.

[@ali09gaming58]

Will using a higher powersupply of 200 or above like for example 220 240 or even 300 watts be better than the 180w one ? as it gives more power, more efficiency to work at higher loads and for more consistency ? and is too much power bad, will it burn out the csl dd ? i mean how much long term higher wattage can it handle ?

[@Triple88a]

It's questionable how the electronics are wired inside the wheel. At the bottom of the wheel it says 24v 7.5amp. I'd run the closest i can to those specs for safety.

[@willardr100]

It’s fair game for Fanatec to sell boost options and make a nice buck from us suckers. What’s even cuter is that adventurous folks can get the same for a third the price. I, personally, have just ordered a boost kit from the manufacturer. I can’t be bothered with diy and I have poor skills to do it myself like this. But I love that it is possible 👍

[@burtpanzer]

Pretty sure this exact unit is on Amazon under this name, inShareplus LED Power Supply, 24V 200W IP67 Waterproof Outdoor Driver, it's got the 2 output wires to DC 24V 8.3A 200W with a constant current.

[@Triple88a]

Yup this will work too. The difference is also that adapter doesnt have a wall plug so you'll need to wire a wall plug too.

[@ChuckTownRC51]

@Atanas Tripzter it does have a wall plug

[@hawkeyes4768]

Q: can Fanatec update their wheel software to not allow this? or we can do this forever?

[@Triple88a]

We can only guess what they will do. Software lock would be pretty scummy of them though.

[@alexandrerossi3553]

Hi man! How long is your usb cable? I’m about to buy the CSL DD but I’ll need a longer a usb cable. Nice job with the power supply!

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for your comment. The white cable you see in the video is a simple phone charging cable (USBC) Fanatec came with its own USBC cable that is just shy of 10 feet long.

[@Gabichivu2]

Hi, Thanks for the video. I've made my adapter and plugged it in it shows as "Boost KIT", definitely more power than the standard. I was relieved to see it working.But then I entered some games and found problems :( from time to time there is no input registered for a brief moment (half a second or so) neither on the wheel , paddles, buttons, pedals. Switched back to the standard one and the issue disappears. i got a different adapter( i'm from romania) but still 24v , 200W, 8.33A. In the fanatec control panel everything remains connected( i have 2 monitors) so there are no disconnects. After further testing i noticed that the issue also occurs without running any games, tested in the fanatec control panel just by moving the pedals or wheel the input disappears for a split second. Any suggestions?

[@Triple88a]

My guess is the power supply unit doesn't have enough power and shuts down. Many are rated a certain number but how accurate that rating is is questionable.

[@Gabichivu2]

@@Triple88a i'm returning it tomorrow, to get a new one, maybe i just got a bad one. :)

[@Gabichivu2]

Fixed it now, returned that and got a new one but with 250W, it works perfectly, no more "input disconnects". There should be no problem with the 250W, since i think it only draws what it needs power wise.

[@Triple88a]

@@Gabichivu2 Very good, glad to hear you got it running properly. Enjoy.

[@christophsmaul305]

Hello, why 200w? the peak from the base is max 50w at 8nm 🤔

[@Triple88a]

Hello, thank you for your comment. the reason for 200w is because that's the wattage of the power supply fanatec uses.

[@christophsmaul305]

@@Triple88a Thanks for the explanation 😊

[@EataTwixX]

Does it have to be 2 outputs? Or can u Just put 2 cables of the connector to 1 cable of the psu?

[@Triple88a]

Hey there, thanks for checking out my video. The 4 pin PSU connector is 4 pins. All 4 pins need to be wired properly to work. If you purchased an adapter that has only 2 wires you'll need to wire the 2 positive cables from the PSU connector together to the positive coming out of the power adapter and then wire the 2 ground wires together to the ground wire on the power adapter.

[@EataTwixX]

@@Triple88a ok perfect thank you. Makes sense, ist Just wanted to be safe :) great Video!

[@Triple88a]

@@EataTwixX If you plan on doing electrical work it's always handy to have a volt meter in your tool box.

[@gtrealm]

So does it matter that this unit is 200w vs 180w and 8.4amp vs 7.4amp of the boostkit supply?

[@Triple88a]

I havent seen any issues with running 200w.

[@gtrealm]

@Atanas Tripzter hooked it all up yesterday. And all was well. Thanks for making the video buddy. 👊💪💯

[@johnwoodcock9838]

can i use a Meanwell HLG-320H 24V. I believe its a constant voltage which is 24v dc 320 watts 13.34 amps

[@Triple88a]

Hello, if it's constant voltage it should work. That said, it does supply a lot of amperage. It's unclear if there's a limiter inside the base. Unfortunately I don't have that information but if there isn't a limiter inside, there's a good chance it may burn out the base because the electronics are trying to send 100% wattage into the motor.

[@Aijames]

@@Triple88a electronics don't work like that. they take what they need and leave the extra on the table. it will not pull 13amps when demand is only what demand is. you can have 100amp psu and if it only needs 7.5 you are completely fine.

[@Triple88a]

@@Aijames You've never overloaded an electric motor eh? I have and have burned it out in minutes. Both were ran at the same voltages.

[@alexisd.5357]

Hi ! After one year, your DD still working with this DIY boost kit ? No problem ?

[@Triple88a]

Hello, the wheel has been solid. No issues at all with the boost kit. I have close to 1000 hours on it since i made this video

[@alexisd.5357]

@@Triple88a Nice ! Thanks for your answer :)

[@pmattarazzo]

I watched video of DIY when they shipped out pre production CSL DD and guy said 200w power supply wasn't giving out true 200w. I ordered the 300w 24v power supply. Same brand just 300w instead. Just wondering if it's ok to get 300w supply. Wheel base will only draw power it needs correct?

[@vinny9152]

Don't worry about it. The sticker on my CSL DD says the power input is rated at 24V 7.5A = 180W. As long as your power supply meets or exceeds these values, you are fine. However, I wouldn't recommend buying the cheapest power supply you can find. The better quality ones tend to have better output filtering and will last longer.

[@Triple88a]

Hey there, It's not giving out the true 200w because people are expecting continuous 200w. Also the wheel needs 180w max. The fanatec boost kit cant output 180w continuously as well. That said the power brick I used can output +180w from what I have seen. I saw another video of a person testing this LED driver and it did output 186w.

[@dianemethot1716]

I am using a 300 watt, because that is what I had lying around and it is working just fine.

[@andreavisani9055]

Thanks man for the uploading! I would like to make it but I struggle to find that exact power supply. The one I can find is the meanwell ELG-200-24B-3Y Do you think that it will work as well? Thanks!

[@Triple88a]

Hello Andrea, i saw your previous comment but youtube automatically deletes it because of the link. That power supply wont work because it's constant current. Constant current power supplies automatically adjust the voltage based on current. You need a power supply that will hold 24 volts steady. You need Constant Voltage.

[@burtpanzer]

@@Triple88a Hi, I hate to bother you with this, it's just that Andrea here was told not to get a constant current, and below you say the opposite so I'm confused... I think constant means a steady 24 volts, yes?

[@Triple88a]

@@burtpanzer hello, you do not want constant current. Constant current adapters will vary the voltage to get even current to the part. What you want is constant voltage adapter. Constant voltage will keep 24 volts and the wheel base will pull however many amps it needs at that time based on the force feedback settings in game. These are 2 different types of adapters. One is constant current, the other is constant voltage. You need constant voltage.

[@Camaro-it8ht]

@@Triple88a Hello, will Mean Well XLG-200-24-A work? I think this one as constant 24VDC. Only 2 output cables, but I guess that is not a problem. Thanks!

[@OldguyChris]

after a year ,is it still doing wel?

[@Triple88a]

Hello, not a single problem. Got probably 1k hours of race time so far.

[@zielarzxx911]

hi, will this work in europe with travel adapter to european power outlet ? there is no way I will pay that much for a simple power supply to fanatec

[@Triple88a]

Hey there, yes the difference is the input, you'll need to get a 24 volt 200watt adapter that is made for the power grid in your country.

[@lachlancashion3200]

does that mean i could use and old pc power supply?

[@Triple88a]

Hello, PC Power supplies are 12 volts and are also wired in a different configuration by default that will likely burn out the wheel base. The Fanatec CSL DD requires 24 volts so a PC power supply will not work. That said you need the cable from the power supply so you can cut that off and wire it to a 24 volt power supply like the one in the video.

[@taumantaskantaravicius1079]

Hey man, great video and likely usefull for a load of people. I believe the pricing for the dd 8nm is fairly reasonable though as their profits are likely negative for the 5nm models whereas they make all the profit from the 8nm bundle and therefore the seemingly crazy price of the PSU. While i think it would have been smarter for fanatec to just have the 8nm priced at some profit rather than the 5nm at a loss, i do see why they did it. Doesnt take away from the fact that this vid will save a lot of people a lot of money and so great job to you sir!

[@ViaticalTree]

There is no way they are selling the 5nm kit at a loss.

[@brandonchappell1535]

No way in hell Fanatec sell ANYTHING at a loss!!

[@flubzorgaming]

Does it matter that the ATX 4pin cables are 12V? And the DC is 24V?

[@Triple88a]

No the 4 pin cable i posted is fine. Gauge matters though. There are cheap ones that are like 22 gauge and will heat up. The one I went with is 18 gauge. the voltage of the power adapter is what matters.

[@giannislax]

Does it matter if we find one with 8.3A vs the 7.5A that fanatec has?

[@skov9700]

no

[@pyroblaze13]

Does this Work in U.S.? live in U.S. Can I still use the 24V PSU or do I need a 12V?

[@Triple88a]

You'll need a 24 volt. The input will be different.. 120 volt vs 240 volt but the output will be the same. 24 volt 8 amp constant voltage adapter.

[@jollesracing517]

Looks like a good option, but I dont think I wanna do the wiring like that myself. I'll stick with the regular 90W for now and maybe revisit. Good video though, thank you!

[@LVNona69]

Can I use 24v 400w psu?

[@Triple88a]

Hey there, I've seen people in a fanatec group say they are using larger psus. 350-400w with no issues. I don't have any personal experience with a psu that oversized so I cant speak on that regard. Theoretically it shouldn't be an issue if fanatecs electronics have safeties and only take what they need. One thing you must confirm is if the PSU is constant voltage or constant current. It MUST be constant voltage.

[@LVNona69]

and what is the best way to diagnose it? @@Triple88a

[@gorbzzz]

Did Fanatec detect the fact you were using such a power supply and maybe tried to contact you or emailed a break of guarantee etc?

[@Triple88a]

I havent had any issues. I did read on reddit that people have done warranty work with diy boost kits without question.

[@megadrivergt2109]

I've got an old laptop power supply, outputs 19.5V - 12.3A will that work?

[@Triple88a]

Unfortunately that I cant tell you for sure but it seems like it's way out of the range. Original PSU is 24 volts.

[@megadrivergt2109]

@@Triple88a thanks.

[@tylerrobertson4926]

How is it holding up 4 months later?

[@Triple88a]

Running like a champ. I got about 600 hours in throughout the multiple racing games i use it for.

[@JohnnyEMatos]

It seems they are going to keep the 5nm version out of the market for a while. Maybe they want to force sell those bricks

[@marcinpyszny3512]

Anyone tried UMEC Digipos UP2002-01 24V 8.5A 200W?

[@Triple88a]

I checked the part number for that one and I couldnt find any info on the pinout or the specs. I wouldn't feel comfortable using an adapter with no info sheet.

[@mariowayner2965]

200 watt more NM? Maybe 9?

[@Triple88a]

The motor should only pull the rated wattage but no testing has been done to confirm max nm

[@jman4293]

Does it matter what side of the PSU wires get put on top or bottom of the 4-pin connector?

[@Triple88a]

Hello, Both red wires coming out of the PSU are 24 volts and both black wires are grounds. As long as you connect both of them to be + 24 volts and the grounds to be 0s you're good.

[@PaulDavidAnderson]

How is this holding up? Still good? :)

[@Triple88a]

Hey there, It's been almost a year now, not a single issue. Running strong at 100% ForceFeedback.

[@howlinwolf25a]

I don't understand why fanatec are getting so much stick for the boost kit price. If from the outset the csl dd was only sold as an 8nm base and came with the boost kit and was priced at €500 people would still be amazed at getting a direct drive base that cheap.

[@Triple88a]

Thanks for your comment. It's because people are judging both parts separately. Yes the base at 350 USD is an amazing price for the base. I agree with you that at 500 (boost kit + base) it's still a competitive price but it's once you add a wheel + taxes and shipping you end up close to the Simagic Mini price which offers 10nm and better software. My .02 cents.. Fanatec should have released only 1 option. 8NM option priced at 400 and called it done.

[@TheEpyonz]

Agreed. They want to dominate the entry mid level market by pricing it so competitive. For some people, the 5nm kit is more affordable and will get them into the ecosystem. When they can afterwards, buy the boost kit as they’re already invested. Benefits to getting the either option of the csl dd.

[@John-Wack_DK]

I hope that people know the risks of doing this, especially because Fanatec wont repair or fix your unit if you do this because it voids warranty. Just for information tho.

[@bread7809]

I think that they sell it for 150$ to lower the prize of the base model and still get the money back in. So we should be thankful.

[@JoseFcoBN]

A source with an open chassis is not better ... if it does not accumulate heat the performance and the duration will be better.

[@SimRacingVeteran]

I think Fanatec needs to rethink their cost on this.

[@e.r.6147]

The reason it stays cool is hecause its aluminum extrusion. While fanatec just used plasric and no alum hearsink 🤦‍♂️

[@Triple88a]

Hello, yup it's a lot better quality than fanatecs adapter.

[@Spartan195X]

I just checked my csl elite power supply and it's literally the same as the boost kit. It's the same psu same serial number, what the even fuck.

[@Triple88a]

Yup, the power supply is exactly the same, they are just using a different attachment. I'm surprised on the serial number being the same as well.