Fanatec V2 Base How to Tighten a Loose Shaft

In this video I'm covering my Fanatec V2 Base How to Tighten a Loose Shaft. I hope this helps others as I didn't see anyone with a fix. I contacted Fanatec and they sent me some instructions that where not totally correct, but got me in the right direction.
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[@danielspilling1417]

Just done this fix, thank you for the video, made it a nice simple fix for me. Nice to hit the straights and not having to constantly fight the wheel to go in a straight line anymore!

[@andycap22]

Thanks for the video ! Been looking everywhere for this fix....just one quick suggest ion which I found when following your video which halves the time taken to fix. You don't need to take the fan off from the side. Simplytake the back off as you suggested, loosen the 4 front screws enough to slide the perspex cover back. You can access the two screws on the shaft without having to take anything off then :) . I only saw this on eBay I started putting back together but thought I'd suggest it to speed it up for people. Thanks again 😁

[@jimrussell9757]

Just sent my base and wheel to Fanatec in el A for warranty service. The 5 hex bolts in the shaft were all loose and 2 had backed out almost completely. The wheel lost its right paddle function when centered, as well. Interesting that the loose shaft description of yours answered a question about a noise that was beginning to occur. Hoping Fanatec fixes 'all' the problems. Using my grandson's g29 wheel in the interim. Keeping this video for later, just in case! Thank you.

[@TJRSIM]

Jim Russell glad I could help. They will get ya fixed up.

[@mariomarciano78]

Thanks a lot for this vid. I just received my V2.5 a week ago and had the same problem. Ugly noise. I was thinking about to send it back because i was afraid to loose warranty opening it up. But after watching your video, i fixed everything in two mintues. Thanks again and keep on doing this kind of videos. Ciao

[@TJRSIM]

Mario Marciano awesome! Yeah warranty is great but hate the down time for these little things. Glad to help.

[@Aussiesax69]

Awesome thanks, my 2.5 also has the issue, have used loctite now so i hope it is resolved. By the way in the 2.5 you do not have to pull the sides off, once the back is off with the 4 screws the perspex just slides straight out and gives you full access to the screws!

[@TJRSIM]

Cool. Good to know. I like short cuts.

[@andycap22]

Hahaha IV just written a whole comment out saying the same thing and then read yours 😂🤣🤣🤣 FFS 🤣

[@vladislavzhukovskiy7058]

Wow I can’t believe I didn’t search for this problem before. Thanks buddy!!!

[@brianpettett]

Nice instructional video; had the same issue since the day I received my v2.5, and this cleared it right up. Turns out my 3mm set screw was like two whole turns loose. Tightened it up, and its like a whole new wheel. Thanks a ton man.

[@kyuzo8913]

oh my, I was just about to RMA my 2.5 back. The description of the problem matches my issue 100%. Hopefully the solution, too

[@python0121]

Mate, you are a legend! Thanks for this- thought my unit was at end of life- now I’m back!!

[@TJRSIM]

Awesome news! Glad I could help

[@TMERUNNR]

Glad your making these videos, sorry you had to go about it though. Last year at the iRace4Life event in DFW a fellow sim racer had the same problem, hope he watches this tutorial. Thanks Larry!!!

[@TJRSIM]

+T1MERUNN3R 414 Thanks and glad to help!

[@irongoatrocky2343]

Guys....FYI a way to avoid losing the set screws is to put a small strong magnet on your T handle or Allen key up near the top! This trick can also be done with a screw driver as well and will make the whole thing magnetic so you don't lose the set screw coming out or putting it back in!

[@richysracing9524]

Kool, I've got a Thrustmaster tx an shifter that has just broken, and that sealed bearing is filling me with confidence to buy the v2

[@TJRSIM]

Richard jumpuprich Hey buddy. Here is a link for Fanatec products. goo.gl/pS29fP

[@des4511]

Thanks for the video, I just had to do this on my v2.5, two weeks old. Easy fix.

[@TJRSIM]

BENDER Glad to help.

[@ryane2507]

Hi I have just received my CSW2.5 and it seems to be a off centre slightly to the left and when I put a wheel on it and it’s central it turns to the left from the weight to -5 when on the settings app. Was this the same as you had and will tightening the screws sort it as it’s brand new.

[@crashx4662]

Looks promising for my issue, I'll give it a shot, thanks for posting!!

[@robveneerstonebaxter9244]

Great video Sam. Very helpful

[@e30sine]

Thnx for your video. Totally solved my issue with new, just out of the box, CSW 2.5.

[@e30sine]

Before fix: kzbin.info/www/bejne/raKYi4BuZahgfJo

[@TJRSIM]

Glad I could help.

[@ryane2507]

Hi I have just received my CSW2.5 and it seems to be a off centre slightly to the left and when I put a wheel on it and it’s central it turns to the left from the weight to -5 when on the settings app. Was this the same as you had and will tightening the screws sort it as it’s brand new.

[@e30sine]

@@ryane2507 Hi, Ryan. No, there was no any centering issue. Steering wheel seemed to be in the right position

[@tomasbeha1645]

Awesome, this is exactly the issue I'm having right now. Will give this fix a try (y)

[@tomasbeha1645]

Success! Woohoo, now I don't have to feel bad for my wheel after a flatspot - as much :)

[@jessebunnell]

Going to do tonight, thanks

[@samuelmeehan2765]

great video, just keeping it simple with some good hacks over Fanatecs instructions!

[@LemonadeRacing]

Good job with the video, definitely seems like it's helped quite a few people. Question for you though, does loosing/removing those set screws allow the shaft to come out completely? Or is it still attached elsewhere? I'm having some insane friction on a used CSW 2.5 and Formula Black wheel that I bought to the point where I almost rip the wheelbase off of the rig trying to pull the wheel off (greasing didn't help). The plastic McLaren GT3 quick release is fine, just takes a little tug. I'm just trying to figure out how easy it may be to replace the shaft if it turns out to be out of tolerances and is a little oversized causing issues with other metal QR wheels.

[@baltod4978]

Thanks for the video man. I just ordered my V2.5... and while looking up youtube videos noticed that there seems to be a lot of videos showing broken V2's. This is my first wheel and I threw down a lot of money for it. Do you know how long Fanatecs are supposed to last? I was thinking much longer than the G27's since the motors are brushless- but I don't know. I've already seen a few videos of the motors failing. It doesn't instill me with confidence about their products. Do you know how long they tend to last? Can you replace those parts? Motors, fans etc? I'm pretty handy with tools- just sucks that I haven't gotten it yet and I'm already planning for the worst. Thanks again!

[@TJRSIM]

Balto D Don't worry man. They actually last years if you take care of it. Every previous version I have owned I sold in working order. I had this one repaired for a faulty plug once, but no motor issues. I wonder if people just wrench on the wheels when they start up and damage rhem. But either way there is always part failures with any product. Even Thrustmaster and Logitech breaks. Being that Fanatec is high end belt driven wheels the faulty ones get alot of exposure. I personnel have not had any warranty issues when I needed it from Fanatec. Hope this helps. When you get the Fanatec stuff you will be impressed with the quality. Just lkug it all into the pc and do your firmware update first. Then fire up your game and race on! Enjoy and let us all know how you like the V2.5

[@baltod4978]

Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I hope you're right. When I look at the competitors vs. Fanatec- and I know nothing about wheels, judging from the build quality alone I would've assumed (and did assume) that the Fanatec lineup was the higher end of the spectrum. I know theirs faults here or there, just stinks its on something that is $900+

[@TJRSIM]

Glad to help. No need to worry about anything that hasn't happen yet. It's mechanical and can always be fixed under the warranty period if something did go wrong. If warranty is up parts can always be purchased thru Fanatec by just emailing them. I once bought new load cells on my old 1st gen clubsport pedals and a PCB board just by emailing them. This was of course a wear item and years after my original purchase. No matter what brand you buy everything wears out eventually.

[@As5Hat]

can you do a video on tightening the belts? my base is making thois awful creaking sound like wood floorboards i dont understand

[@1ceb0xcfbl]

Thank you for this video. Will this fix a lose FFB feel in the wheel? To note - I do feel a slight loose shaft so this video will definitely help with that but not sure if it will help with the FFB issue.

[@TJRSIM]

If you have a loose shaft this will tighten up the FFB as well. Any losses in excessive vibrations are lost with a loose shaft. Just FYI also even a shaky rig will make your FFB feel lessoned.

[@MrMETEK23]

great tutorial thank you

[@TJRSIM]

Thanks. Glad to help!

[@user-gj4qn7wg2p]

good job❤

[@Yautja24]

When turning left i have a feeling, a sort of clunk feeling(you can also hear it) at a certain forces. Maybe it are these screws? gonna try it anyway.

[@TJRSIM]

Maxitsu24 it certainly could be. Just not as loose as mine were yet but they will get looser if you don't tighten them up creating lots of slack and knock sounds.

[@SimwitsRacing]

Great vid.

[@TJRSIM]

Thanks :)

[@reviewforthetube6485]

Damn dude mine isnt this loud but now I know the noise when strong ffb happens so mine needa to be tightened slightly that could also fix the middle notch issue im having I was going to send mine in but I figure I just need to lubricate my belt and tighten these screws up and bam shouls be great mine is rubbing a little ot much so the belt is rubbing I have the csw v2.5 but its the same screws and same setup

[@TJRSIM]

Yeap. That will smooth it out to. Glad I could help.

[@TheTalemaster]

THANK YOU!!!!

[@magzire]

Is it possible to tighten the belt? My ffb is nowhere near the strength it was when I got it. I remember 60% was even to strong. Now I have it at 100%, maybe the wheel needed breaking in?

[@TJRSIM]

+magzire Actually yes you can tighten the belts although not recommended. It's actually a fine line to getting the correct tension on the belts to not slip and not be so tight your putting to much side load on the bearings. You didn't mention if you have the V1 or V2 base, but it's the same process. You will want to look at the 4 screw to the right on the base on the front. I haven't messed with these in a long time dating back to my CSR Elite wheel base, but I wouldn't mess with them unless you are getting belt slippage. Also there are other factors that contribute to the wheel feeling weaker. It may be getting to hot although not such a problem with the V2 base with the more efficient cooling. There is also updated Firmware and drivers sometimes damping the feeling you once had and rolling back to original drivers you first loved is a better choice. Game updates also messes with it to. Like PCars runs great FFB at times then I get a update and something changes to either stronger or weaker FFB. So it's best to test out on a few other games to make sure if your suspecting weak FFB on your fav sim you play. Then there is also the fact you just get used to it, which I don't like that excuse. I would explore the different drivers first and see if that makes a difference for you. Hope this helps.

[@magzire]

+TJRSim Its the v2 and I can confirm its not because I'm used to it, my young nephew at the time could barely turn it lol. It's not heat, maybe firmware? How's it possible to roll back to 65?

[@TJRSIM]

+magzire Ok sounds good then. Actually keep your firmware, but load a different driver. Usually it's a driver issue. To upload a different driver go to Fanatec website where the V2 base is located for sale. On the left of the page you will see Drivers to download in 32 & 64 bit. Pick the correct one of course and choose from V219, V226 Beta & V231. Try them all and see what you like better. Download them of course ,but before installing one you need to delete your current driver by going to Control Panel/ Uninstal programs. Then uninstall the Fanatec one you have and proceed to the driver of choice to install. Hope this helps.

[@magzire]

+TJRSim Ok thanks man

[@R1Anto]

I'm getting a clicking sound when turning. Is this the same issue you are describing?

[@TJRSIM]

Anto Redmond It could be. Try tighten the screw per my video to see if it's loose.

[@R1Anto]

TJRSim had a look, once I had the back off I could tell it was coming from the motor itself. Not good. But thanx for uploading this vid. VERY helpful. And thanks for the reply.

[@TJRSIM]

Anto Redmond Glad I could help. Take a short vid and send it to Fanatec support to get sorted out for ya. They are really good at getting me fixed up.

[@feeldontbelieve6577]

Hello Chief! I don't have a lose shaft but mine rattles like hell in rfactor 2. Its not bad at all in gran turismo 6. Only a faint rattling at times like when i drove the nissan lmp2 car at spa on the curbing in turn 1 in gt6. I dont remember it being that bad either in iRacing although I might have added little dampening or something like that. I cant quiet remember. In rfactor 2 its nuts how much it rattles with all cars. I can completely eliminate it by adding damping in game but then its not true ffb. I was wondering if you had some insight into this? I dont now if its the belts too tight or too lose or what to do to possibly fix this. I came across a forum once ( I think it was on iRacing forum not a member for now so i cant login sadly ) explaining to tighten something I believe but I was too afraid to mess with this piece of work at the time when i first got it. I pretty sure that this is not normal as other people with same settings in rf2 never report this issue. Anyway I hope you can help me here or give me some insight a bit will ya... I would appreciate it.

[@TJRSIM]

Thanks for watching the channel. Yes the rattle is normal for heavy FFB sims like RF2, Assetto Corsa, Automoblista etc.. I generally turn down my FFB in game to some degree as to much FFB is a pain to drive with fast and you tend to over correct like when hitting curbs. Iracing is not a problem for me as I find the FFB in that sim weak when compared to RF2 and the others. To answer the question though. Yes the rattling or sounding like the case is coming apart under heavy FFB action is normal. For instance when you test your wheel FFB in the controller panel it will shack back and forth really fast and hard and you will hear it wanting to shack the housing apart. This is normal, but I would recommend turning down the FFB in game some or on the wheel. For instance here is my wheel setting for those sims you play. Rot: 900 FF: 100 Sho: 100 abs: 65 For: 60-100 DPR: off SPR: off Dri: off I adjust the FOR according to the sim I'm playing. There is adjustments in FFB for RF2 in game as wheel. To much FFB will slow you down with your reaction time. RF2 and Automobilista have the same FFB engine and are far better and stronger then iracing so your setting will need to be much lower. Hope this helps.

[@feeldontbelieve6577]

TJRSim Ok, I am much relieved that this really is only a normal thing for strong ffb sims and not any sort of defect to the wheel itself. I do remember lowering force on the wheel in rf2 quieting the rattle but will mess around with in game ffb settings to find a good match. rf2 is quiet a new thing for me as i primeraly drive gt6 and more of a nocturnal driver so didn't want my whole neighborhood rattled up... Thank You Sir I appreciate your insight, help and time.

[@jeroenbrink4710]

Im waiting to get mine back from repairs for the second time in 3 months, and no i dont run high ffb usualy between 5 and 10 in iracing

[@TJRSIM]

+Jeroen Brink That sucks. My thoughts are I wouldn't car if you did run high FFB it should work all the time. Hopefully they will get it straighten out for you, as they have always came through for me and others

[@Empty-ov3on]

What is this video meant as a fix for? What kinda issues we talking about here? Noises or what?

[@TJRSIM]

A loose shaft that will cause a knock when turning the wheel.

[@Empty-ov3on]

So this was a video to show people how to tighten a loose shaft, to people that have problems woth play in their quick releases. I still don't quite understand. Sorry.

[@nirjitcheema9770]

How big are the screws in the back

[@TJRSIM]

Sorry I honestly don't remember as it's been so long ago.

[@andredsnogueira]

Is it normal to lose some force after 2/3 weeks? Tighten this will fix this?

[@TJRSIM]

Hello, thanks for watching. No it is not normal to loose torque after 2-3 weeks however in really hot conditions I have felt a loss of torque in game after playing for a few hours with my older V1 wheel, but not the v2. Also tighten this nut is really only if you have a problem with the wheel knocking. Torque would be the same.

[@Gudendal..]

Hello! I got the same problem with my v1. Is it the same way?

[@TJRSIM]

Gudendal yeah v1 and V2 are the same way. Pretty easy to do though

[@Gudendal..]

Have just done it, but dosent seems any different. 🤔

[@Gudendal..]

Just uploaded a video off the sound. Can't make it go away 🤔

[@TJRSIM]

Gudendal did you tighten both set screws and the little ones on the front in the hub

[@camerawithwings8607]

When you had version 1 did you have any issue with wheel moving off center while racing?

[@TJRSIM]

Camera WithWings. No I don't recall that issue. You can just recenter it though.

[@camerawithwings8607]

TJRSim no fun while racing.

[@TJRSIM]

I here that. But did it go off center from crashing the car in game? Because games like Assetto Corsa etc have that feature. Probably not your issue, but figured I would ask.

[@camerawithwings8607]

Both. I reached to Fanatec. waiting on there response. I don't complete the race lots of time cause the wheel goes so far off center, only had this thing a couple of months it would suck to haved to ship back. If do ever to buy a better wheel it will not be from EU.

[@TJRSIM]

That sucks. I'm sure they will get you fixed up though. I have had good success with there service it just takes about a day to get back to you though. Heak I didn't even realize they had the V1's anymore. They just show to sale the V2.5 now.

[@MrFrosty888]

Is this very common for the price they ask us to buy of them this is disgusting. Now I am thinking of going something else like Simcube n go dd whgel

[@TJRSIM]

Wog As It was a pretty common thing on those wheels. Easy fix though. I’m sure QC is better now though. If you got the funds always go with a DD wheel. It’s a world of difference.

[@MrFrosty888]

@@TJRSIM biggest problem i have is my sim rig will need massive changes even tho its made up up solid frame and also my area my wheel base and screen sit is limited for space the v2.5 seem to look the best fit for size. cheers on the reply bro i still thinking on it as i can get a bundle in oz for $2,800 and that has peddles shifter wheel base and rim

[@TJRSIM]

Wog As I get you. I was once there to. I suggest to do a little ground work. Take the seat you have and buy a Simetek K2 rig. Check out my review. Then buy the Accuforce V2 as it is really all the power 90% of us need for sim racing the modern cars. The Accuforce V2 is also smaller than the Fanatec with 2x the FFB and fidelity. It fits really nice under a monitor as it’s low profile. It is a Lille longer than the Fanatec but that can easily extend under your monitor in a sim rig. Hope this helps, but going this route if you get the funds may be your best choice. You will thank me later I’m sure. Love the communication with my subscribers. Thank you.

[@MrFrosty888]

@@TJRSIM thanks bro i have been sim racing well into 15 years and have had logitech gear but i also do leagues now more often and i do love my motorsport. here in oz most dd wheels i am looking at well into $3000 mark and thats no peddle box or new sim rig or wheel for the dd. so i worked out the wheel base u had in this clip i can get that plus all i need for 3 grand and would work on my rig with no mods, i am also thinking anything will be better then a g29 in feel n that dd would love but i think its over kill in my budget and over usage wise. i do lots of supercars here in oz drift and the f1 series so that said i can get the bundle with spare wheels and that for the price above as spoken see how i go i might end up with simcube and that but so much to work out i think i just save and get 4 gzs up lol cheers bud have a good one

[@TJRSIM]

Wog As oh yeah I hear you. The Fanatec bundles are good for saving some $$. Yeah being an owner of the Logitech as well I can say the Fanatec is leaps and bounds ahead of that one. You will be really impressed in having no notching and smooth turning will still translating road surfaces with detail that the Logitech can not replicate.

[@locospeed809]

Will this fix voids my warranty?

[@TJRSIM]

+loco speed No, I wouldn't think so. When I contacted Fanatec support this is exactly what I was instructed to do. Except there written instructions were not complete

[@locospeed809]

Thanks sir I follow ur video and fix my wheel it was the same problem

[@TJRSIM]

Awesome! I'm glad i could help you out.

[@dactylpilot4383]

No Audio ??

[@TJRSIM]

What do you mean?

[@dactylpilot4383]

@@TJRSIM Hi TJRSim.. The video had no audio. I clicked on your video to find out what kind of problem you had with the Fanatec wheel base.. I'm looking to buy a wheelbase from them.. new to online racing and what to buy some quality equipment. Don't what to have a WB that makes alot of clacking noise. I thought your video might of been related to my concern.

[@TJRSIM]

@@dactylpilot4383 Ahh I see. I'm not sure what's going on, but I'm hearing audio from the video. The Fanatec Clubsport has been a great wheelbase for me. It did have that noise which I solved and never ran into again. I still recommend Fanatec clubsport wheelbase as it's really the best on the market for belt driven wheels. Then of course you can step up to the highest end and look into Direct Drive motors. A direct drive wheelbase is really the last one you will need to buy. The models to look for are Fanatec DD1 or DD2, SimXperence Accuforce V2 or Simucube 2. I recommend the Accuforce and have 2 reviews on it on my channel. I'm approaching 1 yr of use and still love it. Thanks for watching and ask away if you have any questions.

[@MrFrosty888]

@@TJRSIM i was looking into the accuforce but i am worried about if it brakes and been in oz sending to the states would become to much to do if it was something often that happens. here in oz i can get it imported last i looked for $1668 not to bad

[@TJRSIM]

@@MrFrosty888 ahh ok. Yeah, that's a good point there. Quality wise I have not had any issues with mine and no bi issues heard of from others. But yeap do whats easiest I say.

[@muratakan2450]

Adamsın 👍👌

[@muratakan2450]

Başkan ben oyun hastasıyım yuro tırak amerikan tırak için önerecen Bi direksiyon varmı 🙏

[@crashx4662]

Worked perfectly!!! Here is a quick video of me in action if you want see my setup... kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJnOpWSomreAr9E

[@QuentinBuiteman]

Great video! Do you think this will fix the ticking noise mine is making aswell, or is that something different? You need to put the volume up pretty far to hear it, but I recorded it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iISof2hvec1jpKM

[@srtspeedy4983]

Hope realy you are driving some proper racinggames with god FFB when having a high end Wheel. Forza have never succeded to produce god FFB. Waste off god hardwhare if that is all you play.

[@TJRSIM]

SRT SPEEDY Mancaveproduct I play them all. Forza is fun to play mainly because you take a car hop it up and see what it will do. Check out more of my channel and you will see the other sims I play. Ac, iracing, pcars, Automobilsta, RF2, Dirt Rally etc.

[@TJRSIM]

Pick up your Fanatec V2 base and other great products here: www.fanatec.com/us-en/?a_aid=530f70c9068fe