Things NOT!! to do to your Volkswagen VW bug or bus

[@Mikefngarage]

Please like of dislike the comments that apply

[@willieobermann5305]

Mike Fn Garage Or NOT of. LOL

[@eckardtmuller3856]

Hi Mike. I own a 58' beetle. She is mechanically sound and runs daily. I however have experienced that she does not allow the wipers and headlights to work together at once. The previous owner converted her to 12volt. Do you perhaps know what this can be?

[@dave8599]

at 6:24 you show a light blue Bug, and it appears to habe a turquoise steering wheel, which should be only offered on early 61 Bugs with body color Turkis, which you light blue body is not. Whats the story on the body color and steering wheel color? PS you have a nice video, and show some very nice early Bugs. Inspiration for to drive mine! Thank You!

[@tdiamonds23ice82]

?

[@colinmunro7337]

Your missing the covers around the heat risers😉

[@5150mxVW]

Don't let it sit , drive it

[@Mikefngarage]

of course this comment would be from you good one.

[@johanmattsson6572]

My wv bug is sitting over the winter but I will take it out of storage and restore it when I graduate school and hope I get some time to put on it😊

[@ChannelNotFound]

@@johanmattsson6572 Christmas is in 4 months. Ask for replacement parts.

[@johanmattsson6572]

Allen Loser i have graduated now and started working but the bug is still sitting in storage sadly because now when I have started working I have basically no spare time at all😅

[@beetleboy7216]

I daily drive mine through rain, snow, and whatever nature throws at me

[@Kingstonsmac]

Do not tell your wife what you really paid for it. Ever!!

[@Mikefngarage]

or the parts

[@Kingstonsmac]

Mike Fn Garage Especially the parts 😂

[@aureliomartinez2633]

This is the best

[@vwbusguy]

Mine thinks they all came with the bus....

[@rupe53]

Mr Mac … I have a system for my hobby. It has a budget of $100 per month. If I need something for my old car I just back track to the last time I made a purchase. If it was a year ago then I get to spend $1200 with no questions! Right now I have $1700 into my vehicle (over 5 years) but haven't spent a dime in ages, besides gas and oil. It needs transmission work.... no questions so far.

[@grahamrobinson1369]

Always wave to other bugs, great fun in the 70's

[@louiejonesponation]

Late 50s, 60s and 70s are my favourite era of bugs

[@openroad6522]

Beetle

[@TinyHouseHomestead]

Meep MEEP! 😁👍👍🇺🇲

[@rayanesoto1054]

Don't leave home without a fire extinguisher.

[@Mikefngarage]

good one. thanks for that.

[@vwbusguy]

Not sure its a good idea to leave home if its going to involve fire extinguishers lol

[@_f30_b58]

I was getting ready to say the same thing. LoL

[@Mikefngarage]

@@_f30_b58 thanks for commenting anyway helps the video

[@rayanesoto1054]

Rene Drew I lost my 69 beetle bc of that exact reason..motor was bright blue in a matter of seconds. It was definitely a lesson learned the hard way.

[@chriscarey1291]

One to add of substantial importance! "Do NOT fail to carry one or two spare VW V-belts in the car, since a broken V-belt means overheating disaster!" It would also be advisable to carry a spare accelerator cable assembly with you if you do any traveling in your bug, since finding one on the road at the 'Last Chance Garage' would be nearly impossible. Thanks for providing not just VW 'newbies' but all VW owners a service with these observations, Mike! Of especial relevance is the information about keeping the battery's positive terminal protected from the rear seat springs! Dozens of wonderful VW Beetles have suffered catastrophic fires due to that particular hazard (particular if the back-seater is a VERY heavy person! Back in 1930s KdF days, most of the backseaters were children, not 200 pound American adults, LoL!). Good on ya, mate! Cheers!

[@davidrossley1136]

Are new vw vehicles less fussy

[@russlehman2070]

That belt also runs the generator or alternator. If the red light below the speedometer comes on (indicating that the generator isn't charging), stop ASAP and check that belt. If the generator (and the fan attached to the back side of its shaft) isn't spinning, you will cook that engine in a hurry. Back when I drove air-cooled VW's (40 years ago) parts were pretty easy to find. I suspect that is no longer the case.

[@universalpenman]

he missed to mention "Do not put a fuel filter to the fuel line in the engine compartment, that's a fire hazard" 🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@dtrujillo12]

This is the most evident issue the author forgot mentioning.

[@htimsid]

What is the best place for the filter?

[@FLATearthGARY]

@@htimsid - about 4-6” from where the fuel line comes out from the back firewall. Between firewall(the actually rear of the body of the car itself) and engine shroud/doghouse. Behind the engine up under and above the rear left tire. Just close off the gas hose with 2 clamps and cut the gas line. Insert your fuel filter and be sure to use fuel line tightening clamps on the filter, one on each side, remove It can be a bit of pain but better that than it coming off and literally spewing gasoline all over the engine which will most likely catch on fire by a spark plug before dying from lack of fuel. Used to happen all the time when I was young and all of our parents and friends parents had one. My fathers literally burned up on fire and so did my wife’s fathers. Simple fix and there’s plenty of videos on KZbin explaining how to do it

[@bobdabuilde99]

@@dtrujillo12 he mentions it at the end of the video…

[@tsgibson91]

Do NOT start a project on your vehicle thinking you're not going to spend more money than planned. sheesh

[@Mikefngarage]

omg I was so frustrated with that i had to make a video on just that. so many people think it will be a low budget build then they bite of more than they can chew.

[@vwbusguy]

Its ok if you have no money at all because you cant spend it.

[@allenschmitz9644]

My v.w. mechanic died of old age back in 2013..sheer folly to work on them with out one.

[@vwbusguy]

Be me 6 years ago"yeah ima going to restore this car to a show car for about $1000 and no tools......still going.....and buying tools....

[@michaelray5247]

@@vwbusguy I got my current VW baja free from a neighbor many many years ago. The young kids he got it from had rolled it and trashed it. Someone had converted it to a baja before they got it. It had been in an accident at some point, crunched in the nose and rear. While a baja, it had been partially submerged in mud and rusted badly from the door handles to floorpans. Heater channels were gone as well. He saved it from them and gave it to me free. He said they couldn't make it start. I just shook my head and thought piece of crap. However, I figured it would be a challenge. I immediately saw the engine wiring was all messed up. I got it running in 15 minutes and drove it for a year with cracked heads. Took me 12 years total to restore, new tools and had to learn a lot more about body work and welding that I did not already know. Put a cost on my time, tools, parts, paint, supplies, etc. Probably spent around $30K and still going. She's my garage queen now. Drive a few times a month and to car shows. What a story to tell. In the end it was worth it to me. I'll never sell it.

[@Hypnotikshiva]

No matter what, always carry a fire extinguisher. P.S. Do not think you never need to adjust your valves.

[@imjustsayin6562]

What valves?

[@yeahman1975]

Every oil change adjust valves

[@Ratkill9000]

Unless you have a 1500/1600 with the hydraulic lifter mod done.

[@nonelost1]

The VW manual would say to adjust them every 6k miles. But VW experts say every 3k miles.

[@janreeves5443]

I got my first VW right after I graduated from High School in 1962 - a 57. Over the years I’ve owned 5 VW’s and probably put over 500,000 miles on them total. Over the years I have broken most of these “never do’s with a VW”. I don’t recall ever having a fire extinguisher and I never had a fire

[@r.a.monigold9789]

At 73, I was an Air Cooled VW Wrench for over 20 years - do NOT let a cold car idle to "warm up" - it WON'T. Start and drive IMMEDIATELY (moderately at first). Three different Metals in the VW engine - Magnesium, Steel, Forged Aluminum will all heat up and EXPAND at DIFFERENT Rates when at cold idle, causing the parts to permanently deform. Cold under a light load will cause the metals to heat and expand at a more similar rate. This will add THOUSANDS of miles to your engine's life and lower oil burning caused by the cold steel cylinders rubbing on the cold aluminum pistons, making them permanently egg shaped (leaky). PLUS don't do all the other things Mike has wisely told you not to do.

[@RodderFiles]

i warm mine till the chokes allow me to drive it away ;)

[@felicitad4095]

@@RodderFiles Yikes! I just inherited my dad's 57. I had no clue you weren't supposed to idle it in the garage. Lesson learned!

[@jadenpeterson4881]

I’m 31 and I’ve been a two way ethanol transfer pump since I was 21(I’ve also spent some time as a cotter pin, and have a bit of experience as a 5 gallon bucket)- and I have nothing valuable to add to the conversation.

[@venw6811]

I have always heard and done the opposite. That you don't want a load on parts that are not up to operating temp. And also you want the oil warm enough to be flowing freely. You make a good point though. I don't think you want to sit and idle for 10 minutes. But I always tried to never load a cold engine. Mike is right about "lugging" the engine. I bought my first beetle from a neighbor who was a VW mechanic. He told me over and over, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER lug this engine. I did take that to heart.

[@John-d7p]

best advice EVER for an air-cooled. My brother had a German car shop for 35 years and ALWAYS left a card with this advice to his re-build customers. Start it, weait foer the choke to cycle, then drive moderately for the first 5 minutes. About 50% of all the wear your engine will endure happens in the first 5 minutes. Take it easy, and you can reduce that damage significantly. Modern engines are different, and have oil pressure within 3 seconds, which one of the reasons they run for 200-300K commonly. Old school air-cooled engines require more owner interface and awareness. My brother recommeded an overhaul at 60-80K. A VW Type 1 was a sad mess at 100,000 miles, and often required a whole new case, not just a line bore. Of course, owner care was always the biggest variable.

[@loudawgs]

Do not leave without liking the video!

[@Mikefngarage]

and rund the comments with likes too helps the video get watched.

[@cottonhungaryshark7926]

Yess...We should appreciate him for gave us not to do with your Volkswagen...😁😊🙏🏼

[@DerGolf2000]

Do not have a fuel filter installed in your pressure line. Have it in the suction line in the front of the car or near the transmission.

[@cmarshall4559]

Zee Governator absolutely. That's the worst thing ever to do on a vw.

[@SturbokSensei]

Yup. Ask any VW community about how many engine fires that has caused over the years and that should be enough of a motivation to move it out of the engine bay. One single line without any extra weight or joints on it going from the fuel pump to the carb is the proper way to do it.

[@leonardzangs6171]

Odd as this may seem. I drove a 62 bug from 1972 to 1997. That particular model, right from the start, as in brand new right off the VW dealer’s lot never had a fuel filter of any kind. That was a stock configuration for that model. The majority of the fuel lines were metal w/a minimum of braided fuel line used for connecting the metal gas lines to and from the fuel pump to the carburetor as well as the line connecting to the gas tank. Never installed a filter. Never. Flushed the gas tank twice the whole time I drove the car. No fires. No fuel problems regarding blockages in the carb or fuel lines. Put a lot of miles on the car. Even replaced the speedometer after about three hundred thousand miles. Replace a lot of wear and tear parts required to sustain reliability. The original fuel pump and ignition coil was something that never ever was replaced as long as I owned the car.

[@DerGolf2000]

Leonard Zangs I worked on Beetles and Golf 1 in the late 70’s. I maybe remember that some maybe older beetles had a mesh filter build in the fuel pump. And some really old beetles had a open/close valve inside the car. This valve was installed directly in the tank. Like a motorcycle. This valve had also a mest filter inside the tank. (I Think to remember) :-)

[@rescue270]

Zee Governator All VWs had a mesh screen on the fuel tank outlet whether it had the reserve valve or not. The original fuel pumps had mesh screens in them as well. Some aftermarket fuel pumps had no screen. With those pumps it was pretty important to use the fuel filter.

[@hondahut]

Do not run a engine that has been sitting for years until you remove the fan shroud and inspect for mouse nest...motor will burn up if the cooling airflow is blocked

[@Mikefngarage]

yea for sure or the leaf pile blocking the air.

[@monchy25]

I had that issue in my ‘66 and I was the third person owning it after sitting on a filed for so long. Thank God I did that !found the remaining of three dead mice!

[@Mikefngarage]

always check fan flow from time to time. you can feel if the air is not moving sometimes without removing the shroud.

[@jb8086]

Just to add to that good point, don’t forget to check the small airflow pathway for cooling the generator. Mud dobbers/ mud wasps love to build nest in there on such a car. It will burn out gen

[@caseyj.1332]

Had one towed into my shop in the 70's that had a blanket sucked into the fan. The lady said she thought maybe it would start easier on the cold morning if it was warmer.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

How about don't leave the clutch depressed when at a stop light? It wears the thrust bearing.

[@rescue270]

Garage Time - Restomod It takes a long time for that to happen, especially with the later ball-bearing type throwout assemblies. Sitting with the clutch depressed for 10 or 20 seconds waiting for a light to turn green won't hurt anything. I would worry more about the thrust bearing in the crankcase. The old carbon block throwout bearings in the split-windows and such would wear faster.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

@@rescue270 that's what I meant. The case bearing! Much harder to replace.

[@rescue270]

Garage Time - Restomod Yah, I see that now. Sorry!

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

@@rescue270 Ha ha no worries!

[@Richard-xu4cj]

shouldn't be a problem if you shimmed your bowden tube properly

[@2BugsandaBack]

Not sure if this applies in the States, but it certainly does over here in the UK. Do not use rubber fuel lines that are more than a couple of years old. The ethanol content in fuel rots the rubber and they will leak. Make sure you change them for proper ethanol proof lines, including the short one under the tank.

[@Mikefngarage]

wow here they last a few years or more. good to know

[@sawdust311]

I Agree. ESPECIALLY the one under the tank. I drove my bug for several years with the stench of gas. I couldn't find the problem until that small fuel line failed and a good sized puddle of fuel was on the floor of the garage. Yikes! I replaced it with ethanol proof lines and haven't had a problem since.

[@andylaird1368]

@@sawdust311 why would you put ethanol in your car to begin with? -- CORN IS FOOD, NOT FUEL!!!!!

[@davidbell9156]

@@andylaird1368 Because that is all you can get in about 99% of gas station in US.

[@Kevin19700]

Windhund Garage That is excellent advice! Ethanol petrol “E85” is widely used in the USA. The “OEM” fuel hoses for air cooled VW ‘s were never designed for such fuel.

[@trainman54]

Here is a do. In Bug, cover the battery with a cheap rubber Welcome mat like from Home Depot. This will prevent shorting on seat springs.

[@felicitad4095]

Good to know. I just took my back seat out of my 57. Co pilot only.

[@miltonsouza9816]

Herbie Azeitona, restaurem! kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3uUn5VmhNdlhac

[@OkFixer]

Don’t leave home without a spare....belt, tools, points, bulbs, a VOM, duct tape, a length of fuel hose, a small container for gas, a quart of oil, spare tire, Fire extinguisher ,your gun, wallet, money and a cell phone. Don’t drive the car unless BOTH warning lights work. Don’t drive a marginal car...marginal brakes, engine noise, smoke....all means a breakdown on the freeway. Don’t tow an airstream trailer....don’t pull some one out of the ditch.....that’s what AAA is for. Don’t let ANYONE work on or drive your car, especially kids. Don’t wash your white hot engine....or your dark color car while hot...the first is obvious...the second.....car wash soap will eat into a hot paint job and ruin it. Don’t coast down a hill, in the mountains thinking it will be good for the engine....use third and it’s better to run fast, with ....the fan running fast...than no fan speed. Don’t....at all...never....don’t drive your car to the service station with the oil light or generator light on. Stop...shut off the car, and fix the problem. Don’t cheep out on parts....your damn lucky you can even find parts. Wolfsburg is a great place. Pricy? Price parts on a new VW and compare....cheaper? Your welcome. Don’t put hot rod parts on your car, unle$$ you. Plan on $pending lots of $$$$ making it right..even then that candle burning at both ends will only go 40k miles, instead of 80 k. Plan on $$$pending more on your car to make this 200 hp engine, stop, transmit the power to the wheels, track the power and steer the whole mess around corners. Good luck...cause it’s going to be hard to out do the eggheads at Wolfsburg. Dont try to engineer something on your car, unless you have a plan, did it before satisfactorily, or have a degree in engineering .....most of the time putting a bigger screw in that hole...will make your transmission shift incorrectly...ha,ha,ha...see the “egghead” comment above. Don’t plan on making a 4 hour trip in four hours....it will take 6. Enjoy your self. Don’t drive the car cold ,Start your car.....roll a cigarette...get it hitting good. Then go. Don’t give big high out put cars a jump start with your car running.....when their car starts it will fry the electrics in your tiny archaic voltage regulator. Hmmmm what else have I seen Don’t turn your 49 Hebmuler or 52 Rometch into the “Hawaiian look “, or a sand rail. It’s considered blasphemous and may result in lead poisoning. If you have a cool older VW, and want a sand rail....sell it to a nice person.....and go buy one of those bombardier things....or a corolla. Have a battery cutoff switch....so you can save your car when your 60 year old wiring harness grounds itself. Don’t try to see if your car will float....it most assuredly will not. Subaru engines belong in Subaru’s. Don’t cheap out on brake parts....stopping is the most important thing a human being can do. Speaking of stopping..........

[@extract_a_mundo3732]

@OkFixer sounds like you mightve had a veedub or two lol best comment ever🤙

[@Mikefngarage]

now that is a real vw owner.

[@OkFixer]

@@extract_a_mundo3732 a few... and all beaters...except the one I am putting together now.

[@OkFixer]

@Jordan Winders you'd be surprised the amount of people who leave it behind.

[@OkFixer]

@@Mikefngarage thank you sir for being able to ''vent'' on your page! Keep up the good work.

[@hondahut]

Do not purchase a old bug without inspecting the floor pans, heater channels and wheel wells for rust and rot

[@Mikefngarage]

oh yea for sure gotta look for that rust. could be costly.

[@Kevin19700]

bluekangaroo kw And look for areas that have excessive amounts of undercoating. It’s amazing what people try to hide under an inch thick glob of UC.

[@trainsntile]

True, so true. I worked in a garage years ago & my boss was supposed to 'look over' this 71 Beetle for the new owner. He proceeded to put the car on the lift- Yeah, you guessed it- with the pads touching the undercarriage, the lift went up 5 inches before the car moved. Not only did the running boards look like wings, the pads of the lift were poking through the floor in the passenger compartment. OOPS- car ended up being a parts donor!

[@marianfunk7395]

Inspect the unibody extensions that the rear bumper mounts to for bad rust, or the bumper will fall off unexpectedly.

[@craigkearns6425]

And gutters

[@dodgecolt76]

Do not go anywhere without a spare fan belt. Do not continue driving if the orange light on the dash comes on.

[@0bob0cya]

Andrew Swanson or a pair of pantyhose.

[@johanmattsson6572]

My generator light is always on😂 but it’s the alternator that’s not charging properly but it still spins the fan

[@felicitad4095]

What is the orange light? Sorry :-( I really don't know.

[@dodgecolt76]

@@felicitad4095 it's the warning light on the speedometer that says there's a problem with the charging system. It comes on when the belt that runs the generator breaks, also runs the cooling fan. When the fan isn't spinning, the engine gets extremely hot and will literally burst into flames and burn the while car up. Know this from experience lol

[@craigmonteforte1478]

this is one of your better videos on tips especially now that the old arcools have a new young generation of people getting into them as a hobby those guys don’t remember a day when everyone drove VWs

[@Mikefngarage]

yea for sure lots of newbies and people without tech Gurus that need to know some of this suff.

[@miltonsouza9816]

Herbie Azeitona, restaurem! kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3uUn5VmhNdlhac

[@FayazAhmad-yl6spFZ]

My uncle bought a brand new Beetle in 1967 he was captain in Pakistan army, i was 9 years old then. Thanks for uploading very informative video.

[@mikesrandomvideos]

do not drive it until you check the oil

[@heretohear8662]

What oil??? jk!

[@vwbugkidmechanic7248]

And inspect fuel lines for wetness

[@rgatsby6948]

smart advice!

[@extract_a_mundo3732]

Dont install fancy radio your engine IS the radio

[@nihadmasri4217]

your damn right!!

[@musicalgraulps]

Do not take out the back seat and fill it with sub-woofers!

[@michaelnelson9140]

Mine has eight track! Doesn’t work, but it has one.😀

[@larrywoodruff7530]

Wish you lived 10 minutes from my house. No bug experts I know of in my area, did not know any of this stuff, vital information, thanks much.

[@williamoorejr]

VW-- making mechanics out of regular people for 60 years--

[@Kevin19700]

Larry Woodruff And valve adjustments (especially #3) on non “dog house” oil cooler engines is critical. Factory specs call out for every 3K miles but I do mine every 2K just in case. Mine is a 66 bug.

[@starrwoman1]

Loved the video and thanks for sharing. Everyone here has some Awesome tips and subjection's. All in all, Don't take your Bug or Bus for GRANTED, listen to the warnings so you don't become stranded somewhere you DON'T want to be. :-).

[@Mikefngarage]

thanks for watching and the comment. love to hear it.

[@trainsntile]

My dad bought me a '71 Super Beetle in "77. I didn't know much about cars, especially VW's. Had the car about 6 months when the accelerator cable broke. You all know what happens- car goes down to idle & that's it. Had it towed to a guy's garage who worked for a VW dealership before opening his own repair shop. He ordered the cable & even showed me how to install it. I always kept 1 in the (front) trunk, along with a belt & a few measly tools. After the 3rd one broke, I looked at the accelerator pedal. It was a little bent, so instead of pulling the cable straight, it sort-of bent the wires of the cable. I grabbed the pedal & bent the steel (or tin) mount a little to the right. Never had to put another cable in :-)

[@badaxelbrewski]

Had the accelerator cable break in my '73 SB. I was able to avoid a tow by using an electrical butt splice to attach 12ga electrical wire to the broken end of the accelerator cable. It had broke right by the carb. Was able to get to a nearby VW shop and buy a replacement, but my splice job was working so well I waited to change it after I got to my destination 2 hours down the road.

[@jackpayton5065]

Do not leave home without your triple A calling card.

[@chrislingre9175]

All good tips! thanks for confirming what I already know (knew). For newbies: do your research! VERY important. . . Remember: AIR and OIL both do the cooling. . . check your oil level every week. My 36 HP original engine is close to 150,000 miles and STILL strong and fine. ;)

[@harveyharveyness8773]

do not buy an older bug if you don't want to continually be tinkering-learn how to adjust your valves-get used to the oil leaks

[@massacmongo995]

Check your oil level often . If the level is higher than you remember check for a gasoline smell . The fuel pump maybe leaking into the crankcase .

[@Mikefngarage]

OMG how many motors have I seen like that.

[@elangovelautham2008]

What a life-saving advice! Thanks!

[@quillmaurer6563]

Indeed, I blew an engine that way. The fuel pump leaking into oil sump seems to be a bit of a design flaw.

[@soggz4246]

It could also be wrong float height in the carb…it usually is…

[@peterduxbury927]

You could blank off the original pump hole, and fit an electric pump. Problem solved. I did this with my Windscreen Washer (originally connected to the Spare Wheel).

[@nonelost1]

Here's another one: Do NOT abominate your classic QT bug into a baja (OK if already wrecked both front and rear)! So many were ruined that way needlessly during 70's and 80's.

[@peterduxbury927]

When I rebuilt my Beetle engine 20 years ago, I decided to place a small 12 - volt Buzzer - in the circuit for the Oil Light. What happens here, is that the Buzzer will sound - when the Ignition key is turned on. When the engine starts, the Oil Pressure switch (on the engine) will become open- circuit, and the Oil Light on your Speedometer will go out, and the Buzzer becomes silent. Now, here is the benefit of doing this: You may be on a lengthy drive in your beloved Beetle, and your Oil Light may illuminate - due to loss of engine oil and Oil Pressure. Placing a Buzzer in this circuit will alert you instantly!! We all know that (in bright sunshine) that the tiny Oil Light Warning is extremely difficult to see, and many VW Owners may not even look for any indications of Oil Pressure Loss whilst driving. It really is too late - when you become alerted to Engine Oil Loss - when the Big-End Bearings are knocking to alert you that something is wrong.............I have revisited this site for a second time - just to add this note, and the VW Engine does not really have a large quantity of Engine Oil. Hope that this helps the Beetle Fraternity. Greetings from Australia.

[@deffy750]

I'm new to the vw world and found you advice very appreciated.. Thank you

[@brianchisnell1548]

Great vid. Stock is Rock! Stock fuel pump has a filter. Make sure your tank has it's screen. No after market filter is needed. Make sure your axle boot nuts are at 3 or 9 O'clock. Not on top. Factory spec. Most problems occur from modifying the German engineering. Cheers!

[@Mikefngarage]

yea for sure on the axle boots. so many guys make that mistake. I try to put on the solid ones when the trans is out but when it has bolts ususlly 2 Oclock but some guys use 3. either one works. 12 o'clock is a no no. torn boot

[@brianchisnell1548]

@@Mikefngarage 10-4. 'Need that acordian action on the top and bottom. The side just has to bend, not stretch. The seam gets sealant so as to not leak. I see these being installed improperly all the time.

[@edpoe4622]

Great list, really like the one about keeping the rebuildable fuel pump.I've also experienced the use spark plugs from the same country as the car or they don't run right, I know it to be true, but don't know why.Lastly, I'd add don't use full wheel covers, they cover the brake cooling holes in the wheels.

[@errolfoster1101]

don't forget to turn the fuel valve back to main after refilling fuel I had the '59 with the big back window and the small tail lights but it had indicator arms that came out of the door pillar behind the drivers head and they would stick in a lot

[@Geordo1960]

I don’t know anything about what to do or what not to do with my Volkswagen, but I certainly do love the one you are showing on the screen!!

[@georgecurious5103]

Do not let your tire shop or you over inflate your VW OEM tire psi. Front tires: 16-18psi Rear tires: 26-28psi (bugs & ghias).

[@Kevin19700]

George Curious Excellent advice. It seems that almost everyone over inflates the front tires. This makes for poor braking and worst of all, very sketchy handling around corners or quick lane changes.

[@rodneymunoz5166]

The main reason bugs can catch fire is due to having the fuel hose next to the steel pipes that get red hot when the car is running, as shown in the vídeo, where the fuel filter is located, this hose must be always located on the outside of the alternator, which means as far as possible from any direct source of excessive heat.

[@1catbrains]

Don’t want gas dripping on that distributor cap

[@peterduxbury927]

I bought a burnt-out Beetle from a car scrapyard. I discovered the cause of the engine fire. It was the old Fuel Pump. The old Fuel Pump was the type made from Cast Alloy, with the four (4) screws on top. The gasket failed, and spurted a high-pressure jet of fuel - straight onto the Distributor! My advice here, is simply to check that there is NO weeping of fuel around the top gasket of the Fuel Pump. I simply replaced this old Pump with a steel (sealed) version. It was a '71 Beetle, which was completely rebuilt. I gave it a new life, and I've been driving this Beetle (now) for 20 years.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I have one of those older style fuel pumps! But I have an alternator! I run my fuel filter down along the transmission.

[@williamoorejr]

sorry- ait have brushes too-- and not the only ignition source--

[@rogerfleury9759]

Have a 67 completely stock. Looks almost exactly like your light blue car. Don’t drive it in the rain or snow. Keep a trickle charger on it year around. All original except it has been repainted. Owned since new. During the winter I start and run it at least once a month. Change oil before putting it up for winter. Any suggestions on what more I could do to keep it in top shape? Have checked on all your points that are on this video. Everything is good to go. Only thing I do myself is change oil and clean the screen for sludge. Live in South Dakota.

[@hogs150]

My first car a 1966 1300. it was only 10 years old and the side boards were rusted off. I sold it for 50 bucks in 1978. it actually ran great.

[@erikaamot72]

I had a rather pristine '69 bus in the mid-eighties, still with it's original mediam blue paint .. loaded it with camping gear and my two children to go up to Bishop, California from Pomona made the mistake of pushing it at 70 up the Cahon Pass in hot weather and shortly before Summit lost the exhaust valve and broke the piston in #3 cylinder

[@felicitad4095]

Oh man, what a bummer. Do you still have it? (Note to self, no Summits)

[@msimonse]

Been there, done that, 71 van though was never able to get above 65, only could get to 70 downhill though the brakes sucked.

[@hondahut]

Do not purchase a new starter until you test the existing one...you may only need to install a hard start relay

[@Mikefngarage]

yea for sure on the 6v especially on a 6v car. also know the sound of the growling bad bushing that may be all you need.

[@OnTheAir]

Or, as happened to me, I only needed a new heavy current cable from battery to starter. The old one was corroded and became very resistive.

[@scottwrite633]

Every bug I’ve owned I wired a push button switch in between the front seats on the tunnel direct from the hot side of the battery through the switch to the starter solenoid. Disconnect the large starter key wire to the starter solenoid and tape it so it doesn’t arc on metal.

[@GarthThomson]

Great tips, well presented. I’ll add Lift your spare wheel out of the well to inflate it as it can jam in there as it expands. Keep a stash of spare oil (for topping up when you’re out) in a 750ml sauce ketchup bottle with a pointy nozzle (so there’s no spill or funnel required) next to your spare tyre. Mine’s labeled ’bug juice’ 🤣 Pop a new spare alternator belt in next to the spare wheel too. Change the oil regularly (it’s the coolant too) If you can’t hold your dipstick the engine is overheating (slow down and enjoy the ride) Carry spare ceramic fuses (not everywhere has them in stock these days) SMILE & Wave to other bugs 🤙

[@davidgrason161]

Many years ago, a friend of mine bought a Puma. He drove it right over to my place to show it off and I love Pumas. We were looking at the engine and I noticed that there was a little bit of fuel dripping from the fuel lines. (It had Kadrons) I told him that he should replace those lines ASAP. He didn't listen to me and the very next day I drove past the burned out hulk of that Puma on the side of the road. Once the fiberglass on the body caught fire, there was no saving any of it. So sad....

[@Mikefngarage]

those were cool

[@russlehman2070]

The one about using only Bosch points and condenser: Back in the late '70's or early '80's when I had a few old bugs and one Karmann Ghia -- they were dirt cheap back then and I was broke -- I learned that the hard way. I bought "Road baron" points and condenser at an auto parts store, Checker if I remember right, and I had two or three of them in a row put me on foot. The condenser screws onto the outside of the distributor, and there is a wire that goes from it to a plastic plug that fits into a hole in the bottom of the distributor, with a brass male spade connector inside it, and the points connect to that spade connector. On the cheap knockoff set, after a few thousand mile, that plastic plug would disintegrate, and the connector would short to ground, which meant no spark, no run. The Bosch point and condenser set cost a couple bucks more but I never had that problem with them. The plug was made out of a better plastic that was at least good enough to outlast the points and condenser.

[@peterrogers9228]

My advice from running two clapped out VWs is don't worry about the don'ts but do whatever keeps it running!

[@curbozerboomer1773]

Gotta say...I owned two VWs many years ago, and suffered no disasters...But after reading your excellent info, I would never consider owning one of these now...too many things to keep track of!

[@bedlamite42]

Get rid of that fuel filter between the pump and carb, it's a fire waiting to happen. Put it by the trans so when it leaks it's on the ground.

[@akokarski]

Issue with the filter right before the carb is added weight that can cause fitting on the carb to come out and cause fire. The other common cause of fires is rubber grommet in the front tin which is easily fixed by replacing it with a bulkhead fitting or using lamp ferrule to protect fuel line

[@robgraham5016]

WOW! Those are beautiful bugs! I'd love to own one again!

[@Mikefngarage]

They are!

[@miltonsouza9816]

Herbie Azeitona, restaurem! kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3uUn5VmhNdlhac

[@robgraham5016]

DO NOT overtighten your oil drain bolts! I stripped one once and it blew-out on the highway! Luckily an engine shroud bolt fit in it's place, installing it with a quarter because a screw driver was too long! LOL!

[@johnroberts3723]

The most important point for me was the last one regarding the brass feed tubes which are pressed into the pump and carb coz I've had two come loose so I've wrapped copper wire between the jubilee clips and round the body of the crab and the pump just to make sure that these tubes can't ever Work loose coz if they can They possibly will and it doesn't, take a lot of imagination to predict the Outcome! Very important tip indeed.

[@johncollins5552]

I got lucky, just reinstalled my original glass with new window rubbers on my 72 1200 standard Bug for a respray and nothing broke. The small side windows where the hardest to fit.

[@johnroberts3723]

@@johncollins5552 sounds good, nice stage to be at, I remember re fitting my windows on my 62 and the alloy insert trims were a fiddly job but the rear side window rubbers were good so I left well alone. Ps good luck with the rest of the project.

[@johncollins5552]

@@johnroberts3723 Thanks, thing is Bug looks great, however I hoping to do a mig. welding course in the autumn so I can tackle heater channels next summer, probably a body off job and a load of rust repair to look forward to on the corners of the chassis.

[@johnroberts3723]

@@johncollins5552 definitely body off is the only thorough way to do it. I did mine, heater channels plus extensive areas including front and rear door pillars, all sorts of repair panels in fact it got quite scary when I'd removed almost six inches all the way around the bottom of the body shell, pan was ok after much sand blasting, then I went on to do a colour change as I had the car in pieces, I finally spent two and a half years of spare time on the project but it was worth it. So yes go for it and please let me know how you get on.

[@peterduxbury927]

I had an Engine Fire. The gasket on the pressure side of the fuel pump failed, sprayed gas all over the Distributor. The Fuel Pump was the type with four (4) screws on top. All VW Bug Owners need to know that this is a problem that suddenly appears with disastrous consequences. Buy a Later Fuel Pump - that is sealed. Carry a Fire Extinguisher in your car.

[@Mikefngarage]

FYI plastic filters were used in EVERY car back in the 70s and 80s. There was never a fire issue. Datsun toyota, Nissan Ford. GM. Isuzu Back in the carburetor days that is what was done and they were in the engine compartment. In 30k cars that i have heard of that have a filter right there. NONE have caught fire. There were people that THOUGHT it was the filter but usually it was a old hose, or the filter and hoses did not have clamps. or more commonly the brass fitting slipped out of the carb causing the engine to catch fire.

[@billkichman7770]

Just be sensible with fuel line, and you'll be fine. Tie wrap line so it can't pull from carb. Tie wrap it so it can't get against anything sharp or hot. Keep filter ahead of pump. Change out hard brittle hoses. Ensure clamps are tight. Ensure no rubbing of hoses or sharp edges without grommets at firewall, etc.

[@stevenvirdenrasmussen-jone4671]

Absolutely correct about the engine fires due to the brass fuel fitting on the carb. I highly recommend having a tech pin that brass fitting. Don't try it yourself unless you know what you are doing. Otherwise, everything mentioned in this video is correct. How do I know? I was a line and engine room tech for VW in the 60's and 70's. Over 125 eninges built.

[@felicitad4095]

Thank you!

[@gaborkorthy8355]

Change your oil every two thousand miles and adjust the valves every oil change. Adjust the number three exhaust valve loose with more clearance that will allow that valve to remain closed longer to help it cool. I would adjust all valves to .006 with the number three set to .007-.008

[@darrelljourdan3687]

...adjust the valves to the above clearance when the engine is stone cold. VW manual says to adjust to .004, but that is for a car that was driven to the dealer. Adjusted mine with a cold engine to the factory specs... ran like a bat out of heck for exactly 185 miles... left me stranded in Beeville, Tx. Never forgot that lesson.....

[@Kevin19700]

gabor korthy I would add to that oil change schedule 2K or every six months whichever comes first. As I used to tell my customers: Oil is cheap, engines are not.

[@e-curb]

Set your valves loose like that if you like a clattery engine. I set mine to .004" across the board. If you know what you're doing, this works.

[@gaborkorthy8355]

E-curb I prefer longevity in an engine to quite ! The number three exhaust valve is the one to always fail because the way the oil cooler is positioned the air that reaches the number three cylinder has been preheated by passing through the oil cooler.

[@e-curb]

@@gaborkorthy8355 .."The number three exhaust valve is the one to always fail because the way the oil cooler is positioned " This is what everyone parrots. If you talk to the engine rebuilders they say it's a myth. VW retarded the timing of #3 to eliminate its hot running. Every engine after 71 had the oil cooler out of the way of the cooling airflow to #3 & #4. The problem is, those that parrot the above myth, still say the same about the later engines when it's theoretically not possible. My engine is the original engine, not rebuilt. I've set the valves to .004" since I got the car 25 years ago. It runs cool and doesn't leak a drop. The key to my success with .004" is to measure the lash before adjusting it. Don't just go in there with your .004" gauge and say it's too loose, or too tight, actually measure it. That way you know what is happening to the lash. If you find it to be .002, then maybe you have a problem developing. Do you know why VW said to set them to .006 instead of .004" back in the 70s? It was because by that time, most other cars on the market had hydraulic lifters that self adjusted, so no maintenance. Car owners didn't like to have to pay for a service other car owners didn't have to do, so it was very common for owners to neglect their valves. In response, VW increased the lash to accommodate those neglectful owners. Are you that type of owner? If not, it is perfectly safe to run at .004", as long as you know that your lash isn't going to close up to nearly nothing. By measuring the lash like I described above, you can see a problem developing.

[@gazzafloss]

Good tip about the fuel line onto the carb. I had just finished a full respray on a '63 40 HP Beetle, had put the re-furbed engine back in had the rear up on axle stands, fired the engine up without exhaust system just to make sure it'd start. The fitting you mentioned popped out, fuel sprayed into engine bay and onto floor, open exhaust, boom, up it went. Thank goodness for the workshop fire extinguisher, but all new paint on rear ruined, back to square one!

[@trainsntile]

At least no one was hurt, & you saved the car (for the most part)!

[@peterduxbury927]

My story goes like this: I was in a car scrapyard, looking for Fiat Bambino 110F parts. I saw this '71 Super Beetle, almost on its' side, but being propped-up by a border fence. I went over to view this. Clearly, there had been a very serious engine fire. All the rear had been fire-damaged (even the interior). Damage was bright orange rust everywhere. I said to the Scrap Yard Boss: " What is going to happen to the Beetle?" He replied: "It's gonna get crushed tomorrow". I had never considered EVER owning a Beetle, but I asked "How much?" His reply was five hundred dollars - and delivery to my home on a Tilt-Tray Truck. After just over one year later, at a cost of $14,000, the car looked brand-new, with original Alpine White 2-Pak paint. I will never forget the very first time that I drove the Beetle on the street, following the restoration. At the time, the Engine Decklid Had not yet been fitted. Now, bear in mind, that I didn't know what originally caused the Beetle Engine Fire. I had only driven the car about three hundred metres - when I smelt a very strong smell of petrol!! I immediately stopped the car, the engine still running, and I jumped out of the car, ran to the rear. I was horrified to see a heavy jet of fuel (from the top of the Fuel Pump). The Fuel Pump was the type that has a removable top, with four(4) screws, and a Lid. The Fuel Jet was being sprayed onto the Distributor!!! I stopped the engine, dried the petrol. I tied a cloth around the leaky pump, drove home and replaced the pump with a 'sealed' type. I had now found the original cause of the Beetle's near-cremation. Glad that you saved your Beetle too, but I got away lightly, but you didn't. I saved the life of a "sad" Beetle. Today, it's still my baby, for the last 17 years. Just been converted to 100% electric with Tesla Batteries and Hyper 9 Motor. I'm keeping the engine and fuel tank, and can be converted back.

[@thebreadmistress]

If you do not smell raw gasoline, do not start the car, it is out of fuel! lol Thanks for video! Those rules you said are what the "Old V.W. only" mechanic shop tells me as well!

[@mikesrandomvideos]

do not use a glass rebuildable fuel filter they come apart and leak

[@SladesVWBeetle]

mikes random videos yeah they do!!

[@onegreenev]

Never had any issue with my glass fuel filter. I always recommend them over the plastic ones. Always. If they come apart you did not tighten them properly.

[@JT-un7dc]

I also, had them break.

[@Mikefngarage]

be careful mine came unscrewed and leaked.

[@onegreenev]

@@Mikefngarage Not exactly sure how that happened unless the hose clamps were not tightened properly either. That is what would prevent the ends of the filter from undoing themselves over time from vibration. So not only do you need a good seal on the glass, you need to have a good clamp on the hose. Stainless hose clamps are not actually the best but will work. If all connections are right they won't come loose. Don't over tighten either because you can loose a seal or worse you can break your glass. I always recommend the glass type over the plastic type. Plastic degrades over time. The glass ones will last a very long time. I still have mine in use from back in the early 90's when I got mine. I had more than one but those were sold with the vehicle. On another note. Stock Forged Cranks can be balanced very well so it is not really required to use counterweight cranks. If you do use the counterweighted cranks use the full circle type. They balance well. Again, use stock forged cranks, weld forged circles onto the crank then you can balance. All stock VW cranks are Forged. For a great street engine you don't need counterweighted. I have built one with the help of a master builder and racer without counterweights.

[@Offthbadan]

This is good advice for any vehicle.

[@davidwhocares3293]

oh, and do NOT screw the oil preasure sending unit all the way in , those threads are tapered, if it was screwed all the way in by someone else then you probably have to screw it all the way in also

[@TheJeepwave]

As someone who is new to Bugs this is much appreciated. Thank you

[@Mikefngarage]

Glad to help

[@jimmywilkinson9190]

Do not use cheap 12mm washers under your case halves nuts they will cave in and cause a looseness affect and at 40,00 miles replace your clutch disk and re tighten the case nuts.

[@Mikefngarage]

bigtime and I usually put some goop on them too. sometimes silicone on the threads or permatex 2.

[@MartinSage]

The original oil cooler is mounted inside the fan housing. I put an external oil (electric fan type) cooler away from engine under my bus. Far better cooling. Deep sump helps too. More oil to cool engine. Also, put on ALL the original tin around engine.

[@hondahut]

Do not ignore a carb that is leaking gas from the throttle shaft

[@MrPaige222]

I'm sure you know this, but you can't run more than 3.5 quarts of oil in your vw. I installed a temperature gauge and a 5 quart sump on my bus in order to attempt to keep it cool, especially on hot summer days. Before I installed the deep sump, it would run about 220 to 250 degrees. With 5 quarts of oil on board, it wouldn't deach 120. My fuel economy went from 20 highway to 12. I removed 1.5 quarts of oil, effectively making it a dry sump, because the crank was only being showered with oil and not sitting in it. The deep sump comes with a longer pickup tube, so no problem with lubrication. Temperature stayed a CONSTANT 180. Winter or summer. And I never sucked another number 3 valve again. Only downside is a slight loss of ground clearance....about 1 inch or so. Was never an issue. Use the temperature probe that replaces the oil dipstick. I broke the one I tried that replaced the drain plug. Oh, and listen about the rpms and speeds this guy said. Install a tachometer. Money well spent.

[@Bugmason]

The tip at the end is the best! My $10 grand bug 63 ragtop, I'm just worried about that fire shit. Thank you so very much! 🙏🤘

[@christopherkalble4373]

Vacuum the front rugs for small stones. Small stones can roll into the clutch peddle and jam up the peddle action.

[@TheWilferch]

Do adjust the valves so you end up with some cold clearance.....otherwise if they run "closed", you can end up burning valves.

[@wilfredprins9718]

What not to do, Don't make it an EV The sounds of that boxer is beautiful

[@1catbrains]

Good one

[@burningbananas70]

Do get Tom @ Vollsbitz to thread your fuel inlet pipe into you carb. Do not ignore this tip. Thanks for another great video Mike 👊🏻

[@mikethepainter]

for sure

[@bingojamas4786]

Burning Bananas Just curious...why not?

[@burningbananas70]

Bingo Jamas the fuel inlet can work it’s way out of the carb and start a fire. Mike has mentioned this many times

[@bingojamas4786]

Burning Bananas Oops. I was reading all the don't do this and don't do that, I thought I read DON'T get the fuel inlet threaded! I am aware of the potential problem and have the carb top ready to ship to him. Sorry for the confusion.

[@michaeld.3779]

That’s Tim at Volkzbitz. Not Tom at Vollsbitz.

[@67herby89]

Great tips Mike!! Thank you!!!

[@Mikefngarage]

thanks for watching and the comment.

[@sashas8168]

I wouldn't put a fuel filter in the engine bay....whilst its screw it into the line it may work loose and you'll have a problem. I would put it underneath the car away from the hot engine... I agree with other comment regarding fire extinguisher...a must have for an old vw.

[@Mikefngarage]

lots of guys are that way You cant be too safe. i just like to look at mine in case there is debris. underneath the car I cant do that but good thinking.

[@craigjorgensen4637]

Better yet, why bother with a fuel filter? I have NEVER had a clogged filter.

[@Mikefngarage]

@@craigjorgensen4637 I have had some pieces of crap on my old stuff plug the needle and seat opening and it took me hours to fix figure it out Gotta have a fuel filter on these old cars little chunks of crap from the fuel line in the pan or tank plug up some super small openings in the carb.

[@ajc5869]

If you’re that worried about the fuel filter breaking or whatever literally just replace it every time you change the oil they cost nothing. Or get a metal one. I love having mine right in the engine bay where I can see it and easily diagnose fuel problems. I’ll never understand the fuel filter fight.

[@ultraman007]

Also, DON'T install your fuel filter in the engine compartment!

[@felicitad4095]

Where do you have your fuel filter?

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

Yeah, I got one......"DO NOT start and gun down your VW on a cold day". Wait for the engine to warm up...!!

[@Mikefngarage]

wow thanks for that I like having a choke for that reason.. dual carbs no choke.

[@MattLaVoie1]

My 1973 VW Type 2 owners manual says not to wait for the engine to warm up on a cold day. It says to drive it at normal RPMs immediately. Is that wrong?

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

@@MattLaVoie1 But on cold days 6 deg C to -20 C first the choke will operate until the engine warms up enough. How can you start and take off while the choke is operating. The oil viscosity will also be thicker, putting a heavy load on the oil pump.

[@LivingBGLegend]

Mohabat khan Malak and it’ll stall at every stop in my experience until it’s at operating temp

[@Desertfox92308]

@@MattLaVoie1 I have a '72 Super and I let it warm up for at least a few minutes before taking off!

[@brianallen9810]

If you install a new speedometer in your beetle do not over tighten the 2 screws that hold it to the dash, just snug them down. All rebuilt speedometers come with a glass face, over tightening the screws will bend the mounts enough to crack the glass. Don't ask me how I know. If you do manage to come across an old speedometer with a plastic face you can just tighten the screws down. There are 2 different length fuel pump actuator rods, 100 mm and 108 mm. The 100 mm rod is only used on the 1974 beetles with a carb and an alternator. The fuel pump is canted to the side to clear the alternator. All other beetles with a generator use the 108 mm rod unless you should install the canted fuel pump, then you must use a 100 mm rod.. If your installing a new master cylinder there are 2 spacer bushings that go around the 2 mount bolts that support and attach the master cylinder to the frame head. These spacers MUST be installed or the frame head will bow and the master cylinder will actually move forward when you push down on the brake pedal. If you can't find them or they never were installed you can make them using heavy wall steel tubing found at any hardware store. When greasing the front torsion bars ensure that there is no weight resting on the wheels when you grease them, the wheels have to dangle. Failing to do this will eventually damage the needle bearings from lack of grease. This is also a great time to adjust the front brakes.

[@mschiffel1]

Do not use "P" rated tires on any VW Bus...Always use "LT rated tires...Do not use plastic gas filters. Use all metal filters...Do not forget to adjust your valves at least once a year.

[@josephbingham1255]

Nice hints. Also the mechanical fuel pump nut on the backside comes loose. Have a 13mm that has an angle head to get at it. Be sure to clamp the fuel line leaving the fuel pump and where it enters the carburetor. Fan belt adj. is important. If too loose and the belt jumps off or breaks it will whip around awhile and knock the fuel line off spraying fuel onto the distributor. Ever seen a VW with a black spot on the engine lid? Engine fire. Of course if the fuel spray is excessive and you do not have an extinguisher ready while the fuel is burning and the engine lid is opened before the fire smothers out expect a disaster! I saw a Porsche 356 and a beetle flash fire when the lid was opened.

[@billjackson1317]

I owned 3 bugs & 3 buses and they all took regular gas & 30 weight Pens detergent oil ,but always good 2 have extra fan belts & fire extinguisher , also traveling a long distance, give it a rest every hour or especially if you feel a reduction in power, good to have a oil temperature gauge, Goodluck 👍👍☮

[@anmeramz88]

If you're in the market for a Mexican Beetle with fuel injection system (or already have one): change all your fuel hoses, especially the ones that go into the injector rails as they love to crack and make a mess. And try to keep the needle above quarter tank mark, your fuel pump will thank you later and will last much longer. My grain of sand just in case someone needed to know! Keep those VWs rollin'!

[@mech5]

Also check the brass fittings off of the fuel pump. I'm glad I had a fire extinguisher.

[@Mikefngarage]

yea that is true. glad you did too.

[@kevincarabes4708]

I’m very new to the vw world but I just bought a 1968 beetle for 1200 running !! Very helpful video

[@thelittleredbarn174]

You forgot to mention not only should you carry a full toolbox with you at all times when driving a Volkswagen you should also bring along blankets to keep warm at night and enough snacks and entertainment in case your repair takes a while to fix.

[@Mikefngarage]

yea dont forget the snacks that one is important. nothing like a bag of chips to get you or your passengers through the repair. or tow truck ride.

[@marianfunk7395]

For winter driving, make sure the steel cables from the knobs beside the emergency are properly adjusted or you will get no heat. Usually these cables are broken when removing the engine for service. Also, the thermostat that opens & closes the door on the fan shroud has to be set to factory spec, .for the engine temp and for heat inside the car. Great cars but not tinker free!!!!

[@robertvandervelde60]

Accelerator cable breaks, not carrying spare now what, don't despair, pull throttle lever a bit & put a piece of foam or rolled up paper to keep the throttle from going back to idle, the motor will rev up and keep on revving till you remove the foam or paper, it's a little tricky when you stop in traffic as the motor is revving fast be careful releasing the clutch as the car will shoot fwd and on each gear change the revs will be fast but you'll get home. Another tip, I have an early 67 K G which was 6 volts, in around 1982 I converted to 12v, the two things I left 6v were the hooters ( 2 on the KG) and the starter motor, you should hear those hooters running 12v, the starter turns super fast, it's now 2023 and all I've had to do is replace the worn brushes on the starter motor😊

[@shamendraperera921]

Very informative appreciate your comments & words of wisdom !

[@johnlambert3273]

If your carbs intake has a loose brass fitting, Epoxy it in, and then to be doubly safe, stake it. I staked mine with a punch. Later engines have a doghouse that relocates the oil cooler from over cyl 3, to outside in back of the engine. UNLESS you are running a dune buggy, DO NOT try to out-engineer the VW Engineers! They knew what they were doing. Keep all the sheetmetal stock, and around the engine! The engines run too hot unless you keep them stock. My KG was always needing it's valves adjusted, they were tightening up, which will burn exhaust valves, I replaced the worn-out adjusting screws and that really helped.

[@willieobermann5305]

I agree with all of your comments and suggestions. A great video series. Thank You

[@onegreenev]

Don't use plastic fuel filters. Use the glass ones. Keep all wires and hoses away from all exhaust. Always use hose clamps. I agree with the old fuel pumps. Keep them. They are the best. Never had issues with my Bus running 80mph on the freeway and a stock transmission. I did however have a 1914 engine balanced to 8000 rpm so I could run it full out all day long at 80mph without over heating. No transmission problems ever. Always carry spare plugs, points, cap, rotor and throttle and clutch cables and the tools to replace them and adjust them. Keep your ground connections clean and in good condition. Keep your old style fuses clean and free from corrosion. If you plan on changing your windshield be sure to remove the aluminum trim very carefully and be sure you remove the old rubber properly. Replacing the window is easy once you know how. I practiced on the rear window before I did the front. Did not break the glass and was able to install the original aluminum trim. Know what you are doing before you do it.

[@fathergratwick]

Normally the plastic fuel filter is safer than the glass ones which are more often the cause of fires.. ironic to see you suggest the opposite.

[@onegreenev]

@@fathergratwick The two most common fuel related fires are from leaking fuel lines (rubber) which should be regularly changed even if it looks ok. The other is from stock fuel pumps and carburetors where the metal tube is pressed fit into the carburetor or fuel pump. Those come loose from vibration and temperature differences where shrinkage and expansion are not equal due to the different metals used. If the become loose the leak or just outright pop off under light pressure spraying your hot engine compartment with fuel causing a major fire. I’ve experienced both issues with a very close call on one. The glass fuel filters when installed correctly and if the above mentioned issues have been permanently corrected will not be a failure point. The rubber seals like rubber lines need replaced periodically so you retain a good seal. They won’t unscrew when mounted properly and if they are tightened correctly. Never once did I have a fuel filter failure. The plastic ones just look ugly. I prefer the glass type. Always have. Are there any other VW related things you’d like to know?

[@hondahut]

Do not run your motor lean or off timed...motor will run hot

[@Mikefngarage]

yup the death of many engines

[@JT-un7dc]

Found that out the hard way.

[@soilmanted]

Most definitely figure out the way the cooling air circulates and make sure it will be working to cool the engine, and that it is not working to heat the engine. Air being blown the into the engine compartment instead of over the cylinder heads - not good. Seal missing around the engine perimeter - air that just got heated up after being blown down over the cylinder heads and cylinders - will be able to come back up again. Don't neglect the 2 little pieces of sheet metal that go under the left pair and right pair the cylinders. I never had any problem with Champion spark plugs. It seems to me that if you put a fuel filter AHEAD of the fuel pump, yes it will be more difficult to configure things that way, but it will protect the fuel pump diaphragm as well as the carburetor jets and the engine, from particles of sand and soil in the fuel.. And you won't need as many hose clamps. Clamps are needed only on the high pressure OUTLET side of the fuel pump. The miles per hour specs you give - are they for the actual mph, or the mph figure that your speedometer asserts? Use smaller diameter tires than the standard size, and you will see a mph reading on the speedometer that is greater than your actual mph that the vehicle is going. Do not connect battery terminals without a corrosion protector. Grease works. Do not use the wrong thickness or wrong type of gaskets for the oil pump. They will affect the oil pressure.

[@johnzeszutko5661]

Here is what to do - change the oil every 3,000 miles making sure you clean out the oil strainer - set the values about every 10,000 miles a somewhat arduous task without a lift - keep an eye on the battery for terminal corrosion - if the VIN number in the windshield does not match the one stamped under the rear seat you might be driving a "hot" ride - as for the heat exchangers and muffler you probably already know about the ravages of rust.

[@reajrsw]

Wonderful advice. I have owned 3 VW's and they are efficient transportation...if you take care of them!

[@Mikefngarage]

Absolutely!

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Great info Mike, I've seen so many VW'S break from not knowing these simple things

[@josephbingham1255]

2:14 use a 13mm that is offset to reach behind this fuel pump to tighten the nut. They loosen from mechanical action of the pump working. Same 2:14 keep belt adjusted at if it is thrown it knocks off the fuel line and sprays the distributor.

[@aquarius9909]

Great video. Keep up your excellent work. My VW had by factory installed metallic cover on top of the battery ( BOSCH ) held by a strap with a quick release clamp connected to 2 anchors in the floor. The metallic fuel line by factory goes trough a rubber grommet mounted in the sheet metal cover.

[@Mikefngarage]

Great tip!

[@farangill3398]

All the tips you shared are really helpful and every beetle owner shoul know.

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

Do not obstruct the crankcase breather hose, the oil will leave the engine via the rear pulley seal.

[@miltonsouza9816]

Herbie Azeitona, restaurem! kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3uUn5VmhNdlhac

[@javacup912]

One thing, the stock fuel pump plunger comes in different lenghts on aftermarket pumps. Yes, do not throw original Bosch fuel pumps away. Aftermarket pumps cannot normally be rebuilt. The rest of the !Do nots, are true, espcially the carb fuel intake barb.

[@knockout818]

14 size tire on the bus, past 60mph. Can you give me a basic breakdown of why it would overheat, is it gearing vs tire size?

[@jb8086]

It overheating is because of engine rpm, these engines are designed to cool best within a certain rpm range. 2500-little over 3000 or 3200. Any higher and your building more heat without more airflow