Pontiac Head Cooling Trick - Part 2 - Keeping Your Heads Cool

[@FastMonty]

Subscribe for more, click here; kzbin.info Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! kzbin.info/door/B2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQjoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage LIKE MY SHIRTS? Save the Stick, Racer Things, Save the Manuals, etc... Go here; swee.ps/ceTsro_YesDohby

[@serch2978]

5⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵

[@TheRoguelement]

If you say Stoked one more time I'm shit canning your channel ..... Your already painfully anal and really hard to watch ....As is.. but the Stoked is just more than my east coast ears can bare...

[@carmenuchonurb8129]

I have a 505 Aluminum Pontiac motor with Edelbrock heads, supercharged by Procharger D1X, EFI by FAST in my 1970 full weight GTO. It's Street/strip driven and driven to the track, best time 9.8@140mph. You would think with all of that aluminum you wouldn't have overheating issues, but with a 180 degree 'stat on a hot day it would idle at 195 degrees, cruise at 210-220, and after a hard run, the temp' would shoot up to 225 deg. After I made the mod in the video, it was like a dream come true. the engine idles at 180 deg, cruises at 188 deg, and after a hard run 195 deg and quickly back down to 188 deg. I was a skeptical at first while watching the video, but after previously trying a big aluminum radiator with 4-cores, the cooler water additive, and high flow water pump which did not work, I figured what the heck and decided to try it. The results speak for themselves. I must admit I am not quite sure why it works but it definitely did for me.

[@FastMonty]

That's great to hear! i'm glad the trick is working for you... while it's mainly to keep the heads the same temp, front to rear, you sometimes benefit with overall cooler temps, as you've witnessed. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! Keep it cool!

[@FastMonty]

Hey Brother... I'm consulting someone on their cooling issue. They're running 8 lbs of boost, and having almost identical cooling issues you were having, before my hack. Can you share what pump you're using? If you have any pics of your set up, that would be great too. Shoot me an email if you'd like [e-mail] Thanks in advance!

[@yafois988]

BRAVO! Cooler engine in the Pontiac realm will make you up there with Mr Delorean in cutting edge on the Pontiac engines!! I Ponder a bit, about if you did a "port-matching" on All the water openings, block/heads/Intake Manifold, what affect and benefits would result in the efforts. This was a great great find here relieving the heat issue some, that have plagued Pontiacs for ever it seems. I feel that even a little port work, allowing reduced flow restriction would help, how much is TBD. Haven't seen anyone do this kind of detailed scientific research like this on Pontiacs. When I do my RAIV engine I'll definitly copy this.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Yes, I've heard that 428 blocks have the center water chamber open to flow into the heads. (Mine are not) Maybe when I go through the next monster upgrade I'll add those too. Thanks again for the comment, and good luck on your build!

[@SidewaysTA]

Great followup Mike. The R&D you are doing is awesome. You are a credit to the Pontiac community.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

[@shaneA-j7u]

So why not drill and tap for a pipe to hose adapter fitting opposed to welding?

[@tomm9860]

Your one bright young man. Than You.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Tom! And, thanks for calling me "young", ha, ha...

[@bryanguthrie-ej1fb]

Love the old school Pontiac stuff.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Bryan!

[@bryanguthrie-ej1fb]

@@FastMonty I actually have a 66 Catalina that I might try this on. Looks like a great idea. Thanks

[@FastMonty]

@@bryanguthrie-ej1fb Awesome! Yeah, it certainly helps even out the heat. These guys make a kit to help... kzbin.info?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbmtNa0tRRHRoYnFGZnJhZXNYb0lJNDRyTXhWUXxBQ3Jtc0tuRVJfQmtLZk1IRkZ3cUNGYi1GMnBFWUhiaWRQbm1xZFhfYW14My1WMS1MTzQyU3N2MjlFYy1NRDRiVVBHOG9sWW9sdXBzbV90SmZvM3NzaFFNdEp3dFhyZXl1d2l6cjNOYjZQeXhJamZnT3BRRG5pZw&q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.precisionautomotivespecialists.com%2FPontiac-Engine-Parts.html%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR1aUkBbg-nQXrCpEsew67l3uhNwO35Y60B1BnHl9-RDZhtaYQbJtGO8qrs&v=v_qUY4E33r0 Have fun!

[@Tomahawk455]

Excellent video! I did the same with my 451-inch Pontiac build. I just have a line coming from the back port on each head, and I drilled and tapped the crossover and ran the lines underneath the intake manifold to the crossover. I also blocked the crossover into the timing cover. We will see how it does on the street with the twin turbos. lol

[@FastMonty]

Nice Shane! I too see forced induction in my future. That'll be awhile. Careful about closing off that crossover, that's how the engine cycles fluid when the thermostat is closed. Have fun!

[@Tomahawk455]

@@FastMonty It's going to be fun for sure! Thank you for the heads up on that. I will make sure to monitor it and change it back if I need to.

[@FastMonty]

@@Tomahawk455 Sounds good! Can't wait to see it!

[@TransAminal]

I have a 77 t / a. 461 4 x heads...10.0 : 1 cr.....I have factory fan . Rad. Shroud...I run a 160 ° thermostat with 3 1/8 " holes....I run distilled water & Purple ice additive...never above 170 ° on hottest day in traffic... at the flashlight drags running back to back 8 or 10 runs I never shut it off....I built the car old school trying to stay simple as possible...it's just a suggestion....I'm no expert.. it works for me....BTW great channel 👍

[@FastMonty]

That's awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[@eliasmaximus4857]

Wow! I really enjoy your enthusiasm and the showing of your fabrications!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

[@markwestcott6866]

I have KRE heads and used an fittings and run each line under the intake and connect to the under side of the cross over. Works just fine.

[@FastMonty]

Yep, that's the best way to do it, as I mentioned. But, if you want to retain your heater, this is the way to do it. Thanks Mark!

[@SolveFixBuild]

Nice work - clever setup.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks!

[@krieger6966]

Great content ..keep up the good work

[@FastMonty]

Thanks!

[@anthonysantiago1999]

Great presentation, attention to detail and Results!! Go Poncho!!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Anthony!

[@tonedeafist]

Nice job, well explained!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks. Much Appreciated!

[@marioragazzo104]

Can you please make a video explaining how you have the rear Heather hose connected and how you AN the cap on the water pump, after you installed the hose into the front crossover.

[@FastMonty]

Those exist... check out this one first; kzbin.info/www/bejne/eojZh56ofLZ3qdksi=Mt61sfyfbMViHNv8 Keep in mind you don't have to use AN fittings in the rear, when standard nipples and a rubber hose will give you a lot more flexibility. I added an AN fitting on the timing cover in a previous video... here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6mQZniketOspKcsi=3Uirj2pm28MdQNeN Thanks!

[@Eric-k2e]

Glad to see this! Have a # matching 69 gto that I started and the # 8 had to get a sleeve with the rest at 60 over. Do NOT want a over heat on this motor!!!

[@FastMonty]

Awesome! Great to hear you're keeping the Poncho Engine! Have fun!

[@tomwilliamson9060]

Mike....great information and enthusiasm!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Tom!

[@MrTRAVELER96]

THIS IS VERY REPETITIVE. EVERY TIME I OPEN KZbin FAST MONTE COMES ON. i DON'T KONOW HOW HE SET THAT UP.

[@FastMonty]

Is that a problem? LMAO

[@fuhrstpuhl3278]

When I bought my 1972 LeMans out of Arizona it came to me with the heater core bypassed with the hose coming out of passenger side head just re-routed back to the timing cover. Me being a neatness freak I decided to eliminate the hose and plug that heater hose nipple at the rear of the head. After I did that the running temp became more erratic and prone to running warm on a hot day. I ran it that way for a couple years but after thinking about it I decided there was probably a reason it was designed that way and re-plumbed it so the rear of the head is connected to the timing cover now the car always runs 180 degrees no matter what the outside temp is. My car is a factory A/C car and I am not aware of any valve that would control the flow depending on if the A/C is on or not there is simply two nipples from the heater core sticking through the firewall.

[@FastMonty]

Yup, that works... as I pointed out in the prior cooling video. It works on the passenger head, because there's a restriction plate in the output nipple. The issue is your Driver side head was being neglected, and is running 30 degrees hotter. That's where most head gaskets fail. Anyway, this was the next level of porting both heads to the crossover, to be pulled through the thermostat, instead of pushed back into the engine, creating more heat. Thanks for the comment!

[@youdunce]

if you have AC, the heater core is still getting coolant circulation, there is no block off \ bypass \ valve until the 70s so it does not apply to all Pontiac 326, 389 and some 400s. The return goes into the timing cover (directly) into the water pump and gets mixed with the cold flow from the radiator. Therefore if that heat is not removed in the heater core, it just warms up the colder coolant from the radiator

[@FastMonty]

That's true, but this is about Teeing off both heads, and running it to the crossover, so it can get back to the Radiator. Which effectively evens out both the drive, and passenger heads. Thanks!

[@redlion9199]

Now I know why my 69 400 would always vapor lock in the summer. Excellent 👍 video Of course I no longer have My 400 Pontiac. LoL

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Yep, they certainly ran hotter than normal. Sorry you don't have that 400 anymore. ha, ha... thanks for the comment!

[@igotatan1]

I would have tried to run the line threw the valley pan. But Great job. Nothing sounds like a Pontiac.

[@FastMonty]

Totally possible, but I wanted to retain my heater box. Thanks!

[@igotatan1]

I'm in Florida, winter is just right for me. I'd rather take a loss of HP, and have AC, but that's just me. Thanks for showing what anyone can do with a Poncho...@@FastMonty

[@FastMonty]

I heard that... I have A/C too. But, rarely use it cuz my windows are down all the time, listening to that Poncho music. Ha, ha... stay cool out there!@@igotatan1

[@tanner8288]

If Pontiac was still around they would have thanked you them selves lol 🤣

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Tanner!

[@stevenlynch9947]

I see what your talking about. Precision Automotive Specialists has that 2 port adaptor for Pontiac for under thermostat housing.

[@stevenb3027]

It wont except a thermostat been about a yr when i asked if they would make one but i have not seen it yet

[@FastMonty]

Ohhhh, they do exist! Looks like for racing only, as a thermostat won't fit? Not sure, but glad to see I'm on the right path. Thanks for sharing!

[@FastMonty]

@@stevenb3027 Thanks Steven... I see it too... cool idea. Glad I'm not the only crazy one. ha, ha...

[@hydroy1]

Being a old school Pontiac motor builder, I find this very interesting. I know that as you increase the deration of the cam shafts over 305 dur. the water temp in traffic goes through the roof quick. I like the idea of pulling hot water off the BACK of the heads, but I think your working to hard ( and spending too much cash) to do it. I like the idea of 2 lines from the back of the heads to 2 old school cheap rubber heater hose lines back to the upper area of the radiator with 2 hose nipples in it plus 2 ball valves you set with a heat gun for flow so you can control how cool it is running. To be honest I don't think you can get it too cool with the longer Duration cams I like to run, so the ball valves might not be needed at all.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Mike... yeah, so many options, so little time... ha, ha... Gonna be experimenting with electric fan sizing, and radiator core sizes next. Thanks for the comment!

[@hydroy1]

@@FastMonty Many have issues with Pontiacs in heavy stop & go traffic with overheating, I like this idea alot , my main thing is keep it simple & price down. As for fan, I run a big belt drive clutch fan off the water pump, the bigger the better.

[@FastMonty]

@@hydroy1 Agreed. I have seen an adapter that would go underneath the thermostat housing, to connect more hoses to it. Which would cut down the labor, and expenses. It's all in the spirit of finding the solution. Thanks again!

[@hydroy1]

@@FastMonty To be honest, I only use a water restrictor in the thermostat housing to slow the water flow, no guts in the thermostat, open free flow is good for a extra 15 degrees cooler. I never run my Pontiac in cold weather so there is no need for one in my opinion..

[@FastMonty]

@@hydroy1 Good stuff, Mike. I'll probably add this to my to-do experiment list. Thanks!

[@morenecornelius2453]

Very good video of this guy would have been apart of Pontiac GM program back in the sixties he would have been a top paid engineer but they don't make Pontiacs are the engines any longer it is amazing how we continue to educate ourselves good job good video I loved it

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Thanks!

[@joe-hp4nk]

I've been using 4 corner cooling on my small and big block chevys for a long time, works great.

[@FastMonty]

Is that what this is called? ha, ha... thanks for sharing!

[@joeasbury974]

This looks like a viable fix for a warm running Pontiac. Cooling yours by at least 14 degrees overall.

[@FastMonty]

For sure... again, this experiment started with how to maintain consistent temps, from front to rear. Ambient conditions were 6 to 9 degrees lower than the initial video... but, it worked at maintaining some consistency, which is nice. Thanks for the comment!

[@frekkledipped]

As we Pontiac owners know they tend to run warm, my newly rebuilt engine is running 165-170 Im thinking the reason is 1. Evans coolant 2. aluminum radiator with 2-1" rows, 3. flex fan, and posibly aluminum heads. One thing about aluminum heads is I get a tiny bit of cooland where they connect to CI block maybe a 1/2 teaspoon which I hear is normal. i havent had it on a really hot day yet though.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks for sharing Dan... that's a great temp range for our engines. You have a coolant leak? That doesn't sound normal to me.

[@frekkledipped]

@@FastMonty yes very little, drove the car today didt see anything I've read guys having same setup that when you put aluminum to old CI you apt to get leaks. Its very little didnt see any today before or after I drove it I have 380 miles on the rebuild. I decided to go with Tri Power and having a heck of a time with running rich, really rich. Trying to eliminate supply obstacles see if they are bad fuel pump regulator etc Thanks

[@FastMonty]

@@frekkledipped Yeah, I hear you, but I have Aluminum heads and original Cast Iron block. No Leaks. Hopefully it seals itself up. Sorry to hear about the TriPower set up issues... is it standard or Fuel Injected?

[@frekkledipped]

@@FastMonty FI on Tri Power can it be done? Never heard of it I'll ask around the forum good idea. The leak is at the crossover looks like the bolt attach 3-4 drops sits in the dip of the connection sometimes its there sometimes not. Not really sure how I could fix it hate to remove the whole setup for a few drops. I bought a timing light so Im going to start therre for the rich problem if thats OK thn another reg #3 and this one is brand new Holley.

[@FastMonty]

@dan roach yup, FiTech has tripower Fuel Injection.

[@transam4555]

well I'm definitely going to try this modification. I need all the coolant capacity for this 455 down here in Texas heat.

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, you do! Ha! Thanks for the comment!

[@transam4555]

@@FastMonty by the way Mike what mechanical fuel pump where you using when you had that setup.

[@FastMonty]

@@transam4555 It was a Carter, without return. I still have it, if you want to buy it from me. :)

[@michaelbenardo5695]

You may not be familiar with the 55 - 58 and maybe 59 versions of the Pontiac V8. They had a unique reverse-flow cooling system in which the water was pumped into the heads, rather than the blocks, and flows down from those heads to the blocks and through openings at the front of the blocks to the timing cover to the water pump, then the radiator. Do you think that cooling system could be adapted to the later engines, at least the 389?

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Michael, yeah I'm familiar with the reverse flow style... if I'm not mistaken, it's a ton of work to adapt that to 60's and 70's blocks.. I think the internal plumbing is different too... ie, cross hole ports from the heads to block, etc... not a complete expert, but know it's not easy. Thanks for the comment!

[@haroldbarrows8483]

I really like that thermostat housing! Where might a guy be able to find one?

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Been a while since I got it... might try Butler Performance. Good luck!

[@pauliesplumbing]

Awesome video Monty

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Paulie!

[@gregmason6302]

I've never owned a 2 piece Intake like you have. Too exotic for an example for the average person.

[@FastMonty]

Neither did I, until I cut it off, and made it myself. Not too exotic, just trying to be creative and inspire others. thanks!

[@gregmason6302]

What was your main reason for doing that. Intake runner alinement?

[@FastMonty]

@@gregmason6302 Alignment, ease of changing intakes, if ever needed, and the other rumor is that it keeps some of the heat of the coolant away from the intake. Thanks!

[@WireWeHere]

11:10 Slipping the AN fitting's nut on before cutting the tubing to length is often an option that allows some practice on the end of the extra tubing you'll be cutting off.

[@FastMonty]

Agreed, do one end, attach to it's end point, then measure for the other end. Thanks!

[@zAvAvAz]

excellent work.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks!

[@Heathjham1]

Monty, reminds me of the older (55 - 64) Pontiac engines and the way the coolant flowed through the heads! There was an article on reverse flow cooling of Pontiac engines and I believe it was in an old issue of High Performance Pontiac magazine! You might want to look that up if you can. They had some really good results with that! Sorry, don't remember what year or issue!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Heath... I remember reading that article too. A lot of Pontiac fans wish they carried reverse flow into the 60s and 70s. Someone else pointed out that Chevrolet started using reverse flow on Corvettes in the early 90's. Cool stuff! (Pun intended)

[@jaxjax5322]

I make the same with my LS but got it from the uper hose the return

[@FastMonty]

Ahhh, interesting. Thanks for sharing!

[@pontiacontap]

This is great information for guys with engines built and in the car! I have a previous AC car that has been converted to heat only. No matter what I've done with the cooling system, it runs at 194 degrees. I'm wondering if re-routing my heater core hoses to the water crossover may buy me some added cooling. An option if you've got the engine our for a refresh, building a new one etc., you can also do the 421 SD cooling mod. Early heads and the Edelbrock Aluminum heads are already drilled for this and most head gaskets have the hole in the correct place. You can use that head gasket as a guide to drill what is typically a 3/8" hole in the deck between and below the center cylinders. Many people will then often plug the front three water passages at the front of the engine. What this does is provide necessary restriction to stop cold water from exiting the system early and forcing it to the rear of the heads where it's needed. You also reduce head temps between the siamesed exhaust ports, extending head gasket and exhaust valve life.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks... yeah, I've seen that trick, and totally agree with it. As far as head gaskets go, you're right. If you have the standard "universal" head gasket, that center "steam hole" between the middle cylinders is open, and susceptible to premature failure because it's really close to the cylinder wall, and the coolant can boil on contact, which erodes the gasket, making it's way to the cylinder. (It's happened to me, and I still have that gasket as a reminder) For those that do NOT want to drill out that steam hole, or just replacing gaskets... Butler Performance makes a gasket with that hole sealed in the gasket, as well as several other of the larger "universal" coolant holes sealed too. Highly recommended. Thanks for sharing, as usual!

[@stephengalea8]

Great Stuff Monty another killer video !!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Stephen!

[@pro-touringf-body5179]

you are missing a GIANT feature of the Pontiac engine, the fact that there no coolant holes between the block and the heads at the front of the block will cause the front cylinders to run hotter. The coolant on a Pontiac goes from front to rear through the block then up into the heads are the rear and push forward to the water cross over. Now there are holes between the block and heads but not at the very front but become larger and more numerous towards the rear of the block. By plumbing hoses at the rear you bypass coolant outside the head castings meant to cool them.

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, I'm aware... this trick still works. When you get a chance, check out www.precisionautomotivespecialists.com/ They have kits set up for exactly this purpose. Thanks!

[@danw.8180]

Great Mod. I am glad you followed up with this great video. Thank you.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Dan! Yeah, I had to do it... more for curiosity than anything else. Awesome results.

[@anf302]

Hey Bud, Good to see someone else who believes in this mod.. I’ve completed a few of these mods to variouse engines EG Ford Cleveland and Windsor engines and yes it works well .. Dependant on engine speeds you may have to provide more bypass to the water pump which I have also achieved and has maintained water temps throughout the rpm range.. Vary little people believe in this if only they new what the temps where at the back of the engine as opposed to the front.. Great job

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Anthony! I just wanted to see if the rumor was true... and it was. I had no idea it worked for other types of engines too. Thanks for dropping a comment!

[@anf302]

@@FastMonty Sure does. We actually call them Bleeds in Australia.. An old engineer discovered this mod throughout multiple engines in the late 70’s.. Those who have witnessed and believe in it still carry on with the mod.. There’s a great right up in an old magazine which he talks about Nucleate boiling which happens in the cooling system at the hottest part of the engine which is the rear exhaust valves.. Happy to forward it through if you like…

[@FastMonty]

@@anf302 Would love to... shoot me an email. fastmontysgarage at gmail Thanks!

[@jeffreystid678]

Want to move ’72 GTO upper radiator hose from passing over valve cover. Love your setup. Can you detail Parts involved?

[@FastMonty]

Yup, check this video out... all parts should be in the description. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIilqnVvoM2lhdk

[@jeffreystid678]

@@FastMonty Amazing! Thank you so much

[@FastMonty]

@@jeffreystid678 Welcome!

[@ahtor0383]

You are my number one Pontiac guy incredible I will mimic that Cooling…. biggest problem with PONTIAC… V8 I And then do it againcan drive cross country and back

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Thanks! Keep in mind, this trick is to maintain temps across both heads. You still need a robust fan/radiator combo. Have fun!

[@andrewpipitone1572]

This is awesome information on Pontiac engines invaluable Thank you video was very interesting

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Andrew!

[@chriscimino7854]

Install a heater coil in front of the radiator and a valve that reroutes the back coolant between the cabin and radiator coil. In hot summer route it to the outside coil and winter route it to the cabin. I need to do that to my car to keep the cabin coil from heating up even though Its blocked by air flow it can still have a little get in the air conditioning and slightly warm the cold air.The heater core on my engine is connected to the rear hot water outlet and does not have a heater control valve so water flows anytime the engine runs. The air damper is what controls the air temperature. My heads are equal temp

[@FastMonty]

I like it! Thanks for the comment!

[@christianwise4403]

I like msc vs McMaster Carr same idea

[@FastMonty]

Agreed! Thanks for the comment!

[@philliplockhart5002]

Love the channel! For your original rear head water crossover, I saw that you had just found a hose online that looked right. Could you please share that number so I could use the same one? Thanks!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Phillip! I actually still have that hose... I don't have the link to the part number, but on the side of it, it says "Made in Mexico, 14321A SNFA15B I briefly tried googling it, but couldn't find anything. Good luck!

[@FastMonty]

Welp, found this one... pretty close. www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-14321s

[@philliplockhart5002]

@@FastMonty Thanks for digging into this! I'll check it out and give it a try.

[@neighborscomplaint6859]

That look like the hard way to do it. I would put a T in one of the thermostat bungs on the crossover, reinstall the two sending units on the T and run the new return into the unused bung.

[@FastMonty]

That could work... but, my way looks better. Ha, ha... thanks!

[@MrLittlegto]

Great video Mike! Keep them coming!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Michael!

[@scottschilling4730]

I bought a new heater core, then repaired the old one. I then add the old core to the return hose off of the new core, mounted it near the radiator it highly reduces the temperature while drive or parked. My 400 GTO stay around 170.

[@FastMonty]

Ain't nothing wrong with having more radiators... that's why the C8 corvette has FOUR of them. Ha, ha... Keep it Cool, Scott.

[@michaelerickson1518]

What is the recommended operating temperature

[@FastMonty]

@@michaelerickson1518 Great question... a high performance carbureted engine should use a 165 thermostat. If you have EFI, it's recommended to be around 190 to 195. Hope that helps.

[@andrewpipitone1572]

Awesome second time watching this. We will be building a 400 stroker.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Congrats on your build... if you're not using your heater core, check out www.precisionautomotivespecialists.com/ they make a manifold, and a full blown kit to do this trick. Keep us posted!

[@flyaround1]

Thank you for all your videos and information. You have a nice setup and I noticed, what appears to be a -20, AN thermostat housing. Can you please tell me who makes that or where can I get that from? I'm building a 400 and would like to get that setup but can't seem to find one. Thanks again for your help.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Rick... check out this video I did about the top hose. In the description are all the parts I used. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIilqnVvoM2lhdk After reviewing that, I added a step for the AN hose assembly, which I cover for the lower hose... kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6mQZniketOspKc Have fun!

[@iSpike]

Awesome vid Mike, if I’m about to invest a lot of $$$ of a pair of new heads then cooling then is super important to my. Cheers 👍🏻

[@FastMonty]

Welcome, Spike!

[@phillipthethird42]

Mc Master Carr or MSC. both are the place to get the things that you need that are otherwise hard to find.

[@FastMonty]

Yup! McMaster is the first Amazon.. .well, for fasteners, and everything else you need the next morning. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!

[@phillipthethird42]

@@FastMonty What caught my attention was that you are working on an old " Poncho"... I love those things and I'm always interested in what somebody is doing with one. Good content !

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, I'm trying to keep the car "mostly" original, but modernize it. Like a RestoMod, but without an LS... ha! Thanks again!@@phillipthethird42

[@phillipthethird42]

@@FastMonty If you LS it, I won't be a fan any longer.

[@FastMonty]

Definitely on my list of things NOT to do. Ha, ha... @@phillipthethird42

[@Local_Logger]

Awesome video very cool work! 🤘🏼

[@FastMonty]

Thanks, Josh!

[@ProModRick]

I love the way you test. I have mine in the top rad house going back I think I will change it to the crossover where you have yours and bump it to a 180 degree thermostat. Thanks for the good work. Love the look of your of your motor clean.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Rick! Yeah, I love to overboard, don't I? :) Thanks for the comment!

[@hotrod6919]

Yeah I I did the divorced coolant mod and added coolant lines back of the intake. Back in the 90's lol Had a magazine with a article about a retired nasa engineers 64' tempest. It was the most modded car ever seen on a budget. But looked totally stock Funny I'm you making the hose and a/n fittings today. Yesterday I Installed that exact kit on my Camaro. But It was oil return line from the turbo so I Drilled into the pan like everyone else then used j/b weld and went fine . but now I'm afraid to start the car so next week ill drop the pan and make sure it's clean lol.

[@FastMonty]

Ha! That's awesome! Yeah, I'd freak out too, with the oil pan concerns. Thanks for the comment!

[@DuffusMonkey]

Did you consider putting the fitting on the back of the thermostat housing and running the hose under the intake where it would be almost hidden?

[@FastMonty]

Actually, yes. But, that trick is best served when plumbing from the rear of the heads, underneath the intake manifold, to the crossover. In my case, I'm still utilizing the heater core, with a three way valve, and running under the fender, hence the front fitting. Thanks for the comment!

[@gqadventour]

I think the fastest way is to T off the coolant sensor without putting holes. Making T from the sensor will have you a reading from the coolant from back to front.

[@FastMonty]

Yup, that could work... to your point, you'd probably be reading the rear head temp, assuming the temp probe is fully submerged too. Thanks for the comment!

[@rogjackson]

Interesting. l like the data tracking. Otherwise this might be a bit of guesswork. Coolant pressure is an interesting concept as well in these types of scenarios (as you point out). Autometer makes a coolant pressure guage which could be used to experiment with this type of mod. Cool video.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Roger... what I would love to have is a flow meter, to put on that heater hose. I briefly searched for one, they're wayyyy too expensive. Thanks for the comment!

[@josephquinton990]

You have a beautiful ride Monty. What size hose did you use on the back of your heads? I'm doing the bypass thing on my 454.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks they're -10's. Just pay attention to how much flow you get. Might be too much. Have fun!

[@brracing7861]

I Have pushed to 650 Hp Cast Iron Heads RAIV 614 Heads. Bone stock cooling system layout. Even in Illinois Hot Summer 100F I could maintain 160F steady driving.

[@FastMonty]

That's awesome... as previously stated, I was chasing the rumor that the rear of the heads are hotter, than the front. Which was true. Glad to hear you have it figured out... thanks.

[@johnbecay6887]

B&R Racing. i read your comment about 650 HP out of cast iron heads with interest. do you know somewhere i could get some Pontiac iron heads ported? thanks, john

[@brracing7861]

@@johnbecay6887 I ported my own D-ports. 520 Hp pump gas 91-93. As far as 650 + Hp iron You want to use 1969-1970 Pontiac RAIV. 1968 RAII can be used. 1973-74 SD455 can be used also. Prices will be Very High on Factory Pontiac Round Port Heads. $5,000- 10,000. Everyone knows how rare they are and power potential they have. 500 Hp ported D,-ports practical pump gas especially with sky high fuel prices

[@johnbecay6887]

@@brracing7861 Hi BRE racing Pontiacs. i am sorry to take so long to reply. i have been travelling and am just now finding some free time. here's my back story. i have a 1965 Pontiac GTO street/strip car. i don't own a trailer. the car drives everywhere it goes. it has a 455, stock block, stock crank stock ported 7k3 heads. they flow about 225 cfm on the intake at 28 inches. it runs a flat tappet cam, not a roller. i race at bandimere in Morrison CO. a typical summer night at Bandimere sees the air at a density altitude of 8200-8400 feet. anything below 8000 DA is considered good air. the car runs 11.90s. what i am looking for.-- i would like to find another 3-4 tenths in the car. i would like to run 11 50s-11.60s in good air. i don't want to cage the car so NHRA limit of 11.50 will be as quick as it can go. i would like to find someone who can port factory iron D port heads to about 260 cfm. 6x-4 heads have the right ccs for my engine, as do 7k3s. 7k3s lack the end header bolt holes which makes them more difficult. i want about 87-90 ccs after milling. at altitude where i live i can get away with 10.25-10.50 compression on 91 octane pump gas. many people on hearing the above tell me, "Just put aluminum heads on it. Problem solved." I tell them "you don't understand." Factory heads making good power are a thing of beauty. Do you know of anyone who can help me achieve these goals? . you can reach me at [e-mail] thank you for your time, john.

[@brracing7861]

@@johnbecay6887 Some of the advantages of Factory Pontiac V8 iron heads is there are no pressed in valve seats to come loose and cause complete engine destruction. No restricted poor oil drain back to the engine block oil pan. No water cooling passages issues to cause hot spots internal like many report Street drivinh with Aluminum heads. No China Aluminum used any it's pure 100% USA PONTIAC

[@406gto]

Very clean install coupled with thorough research Mike! 👍

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

[@CrankAddict]

Not bad, but I am going to make a video where I tap for AN fittings and run 6AN hose under the intake and to the back side of the crossover (instead of 10AN and the ball valve). I want to run the factory shutoff valve to my heater core, but I haven't figured that part out yet.

[@FastMonty]

Yup, I like that idea too... but, plumbing to the heater core might get messy, which is why I went the route I did. Have fun!

[@lanceh4653]

Awesome video! I'll be adding this to the bucket list. I already T'd mine at the back of the heads and had it running to the stock return. I didn't get the results I was hoping for. This is much better!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Lance... and now you know why you weren't getting good results. Glad I could help... have fun!

[@sampson7941]

Great stuff man. Anyone with a pontiac could use this info

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Exactly why I put it out there... thanks again.

[@johnd5412]

I found a multi port thermostat housing and curious if I run my tee off line directly to it would lower the temp a few degrees ?

[@FastMonty]

You mean instead of welding a fitting, like I did? It will have the same affect. Just keep in mind, this method is to keep the front to rear temperature more equal. It does not lower the overall temp. Hope that helps!

[@GetRichOrWorkTrying]

Awesome video thanks

[@FastMonty]

Welcome!

[@soldierski1669]

Seen on FB market Pontiac intake, believe a Victor, he had the cross over cut off but had 2 AN lines coming off of them facing rear. I'm thinking he did the LS steam line thing, but have no idea. But I really like the idea of the crossover in the back, that should fix everything?

[@FastMonty]

Not sure about how much work putting a crossover in the back entails... but, the crossover you found on FB, with the two AN ports, is exactly what I've done. He we just running a line from the back of each head, directly to each port, underneath the intake. I'd buy it, just to have that crossover. Have fun!

[@johnbecay6887]

very informative video and sharp engine detail. if you wanted to provide for a heater, how would you plumb the rear of both heads independently back to the water crossover? it seems if the pass. head provides for the heater alone, it would be delivering cooler water back to the cross over. thanks

[@FastMonty]

Good question, John... you'd have to run the Tee'd line to the heater core, then to the crossover. Depending on your model, you may have constant flow through the core, which is easy. BUT, if you have a switch, like A/C... there's a valve that closes when A/C is on, etc... you'll have to get creative with your plumbing. I have a three way valve, that I engineered. One side of the valve bypasses the core. When the heater is turned on, the valve directs coolant to the core. Moral of the story, it can be done. :) As a hint, check out the valve that Vintage Air sells... that's what I modified. Thanks, and good luck!

[@johnbecay6887]

@@FastMonty Thanks for the prompt informative reply. a 3 way valve would do the trick. it would isolate the heater out of the loop when racing, for example, allowing for maximum tuning potential. take care, john

[@FastMonty]

@@johnbecay6887 Yes! That's why I did it.... Thanks John, and have fun!

[@elebeu]

At 6:00 it seems that it would have been easier to plumb your coolant return hose into one of the ports already provided on the crossover, like where your temperature sensor is located instead of drilling the crossover and welding in the fitting.

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, that would've worked.. .but, wouldn't look as cool. :) Thanks for the comment!

[@rossbeck1595]

@@FastMonty Would also upset coolant temp sensing because not much mixing would have occurred at that point

[@FastMonty]

@@rossbeck1595 Not a huge concern, as the source is virtually the same temperature, as we proved with the temp readings on the heads. If the source was a greatly different temperature, we could consider temps not mixing correctly.

[@patrickwendling6759]

Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Patrick!

[@RealDougFields]

Nice job. We used to partially fill the block and have head gaskets made that flowed more into the heads at the back of the engine. We also blocked off the transfer between the manifold and pump because we found it caused less than optimal port alignment. This allowed us to balance out the temps and still be legal for NHRA Stock Eliminator.

[@FastMonty]

Ohhh, good stuff. Thanks for sharing!

[@erikeyler6180]

I know it's not 100% related to this video, but can you provide part numbers for the radiator hose and fittings you are running? They look hot. I believe I have the 360degree housing lined up from Butler, but I'm a bit lost as to what hose and hose to thermostat housing adapters you are running.

[@FastMonty]

No worries... here's the video on that hose assembly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIilqnVvoM2lhdksi=R4SYPRarsbwx8jD1 I love it!

[@erikeyler6180]

@@FastMonty Perfect, thank you! Not that I'm anywhere near your level of refinement with my ride, I'm in the process of assembling a Procharged 501 build with gearvendors overdrive build. Detailed elements like this will greatly help.

[@FastMonty]

@@erikeyler6180 No worries, and Whoooaaa love your idea. I'll be adding a supercharger in my future too. Have fun!

[@glengartner9294]

Cool, (get it) always loved my everyday drive Pontiac cause when the outside temp is -5F and you have to be at work in 10 min the Pontiac starts and in six blocks or so the heater and of course the defroster starts working. Pontiac designed it the way they did for a very good reason. (or else dumb luck) Serious hotrodders need this more than they need a heater that works quickly. Of course almost none of the Pontiac v8s are everyday drivers in Nebraska and other cold winter places now days.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Glen! Yeah, and my defroster still works. :) Thanks for the comment.

[@kryptoknight1667]

All Pontiac blocks water jackets are left undrilled from the factory. Laying a head gasket on the block will learn ya real quick bout some Pontiac hate'n GM assembly line workers back in the day

[@FastMonty]

You referring to the center holes... yeah, some blocks have them drilled some do not. I think 421's have them drilled. I can't remember why... thanks!

[@gregschultz2029]

Thank You For Your Videos !!!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Greg!

[@waltertinsley4947]

My motor is 67 400 bored .040 the driver side is 150 degrees but the passenger side is 218 degrees after idling for 30 minutes. We have new radiator fan etc also we put in a temp gauge and it shows 175 degrees

[@FastMonty]

I understand the frustration... where are you measuring the 218? Is the temp gauge mechanical?

[@waltertinsley4947]

@@FastMonty yes it’s mechanical temp gauge we bought and he’s reading 218 on the passenger side front head

[@FastMonty]

@@waltertinsley4947 Soooo, the mechanical gauge is mounted in the crossover, yes? You're reading the 218 using a infrared thermometer on the front of the passenger head, before it enters the crossover, where the same spot on the other head is 150? Assuming you're not running the heater, a higher temperature on one side versus the other typically means there might be head gasket issue. OR, there's something wrong with the sleeve inside the timing chain cover. Sorry, so difficult to diagnose without seeing it in person... hope it gives you guys some ideas to work with.

[@waltertinsley4947]

@@FastMonty we’re checking both heads are the same and the engine has been cleaned and rebuilt hopefully they put them on upside down or something easy because I’m anxious ready to get my car back.

[@FastMonty]

@@waltertinsley4947 I hear you... hope it's nothing.

[@lockshoprobert]

Great video! So did you leave everything on the backside of the motor the same including the ball value shut off. If you could redo everything would you do it the same way or would you do it different. You given me some great ideals. Thanks!!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Robert! Yes, I'd do it the same... purely because I can still run my heater. Long story, but I have a three way valve after the ball valve, that diverts coolant into the heater core, or bypass it altogether. Thanks for the comment, and good luck!

[@hugohernandez8159]

Thank you for these videos, I have a 69 firebird that I'm getting ready to drive again after 20 yrs. My question is , since I'm just putting the stock 350 Pontiac engine back in .... can I tap thread the stock cast iron heads to do this modification? Also I'm installing a vintage air a/c system on it so how would I route the hoses on the back of the heads? Thanks again for these videos.

[@FastMonty]

Congrats on getting er going again. Can you add a nipple? yes. The driver's side head has a freeze plug in that location. You can knock that out, and add a nipple, just like the passenger side. (Make sure there are restrictors in those nipples) Vintage Air, is another issue. I too have Vintage Air, and had to make a custom three way valve so there's always coolant running from the back of the heads to the timing cover. When I turn the heater on, the valve switches and flows through the heater core. No, I don't have a video on that, yet... as I will probably re-design it. Maybe Vintage Air makes a new valve to do just that? (I bought mine 10 years ago) Let me know what you figure out...

[@hugohernandez8159]

@@FastMonty thank you for replying back and for the info . I will let you know how it comes out. Thanks again.

[@billmiller5075]

Nice welding Mike

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Almost super nice, no leaks, which is the main goal. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!

[@JerryOlivas-l9c]

New @ Owning a Pontiac,Just just got a 66 Tempest W/a 327,2spd trans ,feels really slow,any tips 2 upgrade?

[@FastMonty]

Congrats! Tips? Ha! Get a bigger engine? ha, ha... sorry, you left yourself open on that. Start with air flow... air cleaner, carb rebuild, headers, exhaust, etc... but, seriously, that engine is tiny. If it's numbers matching, you could bore and stroke it. Have fun!

[@gregmason6302]

I was thinking of trying your trick of separating water crossover on a Mickey Thompson dual quad cross ram that only fits his heads. No markings at all on intake. Looks like a early prototype. Is this a bad idea?

[@FastMonty]

Nothing's a bad idea... until it is. ha, ha.... closely examine the top and bottom for any hidden cavities... including your heads.. they might have a hidden opening not shown on mind. Good luck!

[@1RAYGC]

I wonder if that helps HP, if so, now much?

[@FastMonty]

It adds 200 horsepower! Ha! kidding. I have no idea.

[@1RAYGC]

@@FastMonty I wondered because temp control effects power. Back in the day circle track guys used to partially fill the bottom of the water passages in the block with mortar because they were much cooler than the top.

[@FastMonty]

Good point. In that case, it must make at least 100 horses! 🤣 @@1RAYGC

[@classified70]

Ive watched this video a few times, hard to tell but I assume that with this new set up, you hace blocked off small water outlet on the timing cover?

[@FastMonty]

Good question... but no, that bypass hole is still operational, and needs to be when the thermostat is closed. Thanks!

[@mb-fs1yo]

Circle track racers have been plumbing the rear of the heads to the front cross over for decades

[@FastMonty]

Good to know, MB. I know I'm not re-inventing anything here, just trying to prove the myth, and improve my engine. Thanks for the comment!

[@brracing7861]

Its Neat experimentation your doing with your Pontiac V8 cooling system. I have never had to do anything fancy with my Pontiac V8 455 engines. Its Stock coolant flow layouts as Pontiac Engineers designed. All I did and still do is slow the Water pump speed down with Large Diameter 455 specific water pump pulley and use a Factory Pontiac V8 Water pump rebuilt with the Factory Cast Iron impeller. I can maintain water temps 160F or 180F steady using 160F or 180F T-stats.

[@FastMonty]

That's awesome... yeah, I was just chasing the rumor/myth that the rear of the heads are higher temp than the front, which turned out to be true in my case. Granted after we all start changing components, pump, heads, radiator, even hose diameters... things change... and over time, no one has the same engine anymore. :) Thanks for sharing your setup!

[@chrisleggett685]

@1:15 you are incorrect.vwater pumps do not make pressure. Water pumps only suck.

[@FastMonty]

Suction on one side, pressure on the other, that's how it works. Thanks.

[@chriscimino7854]

Hi Monty how are you. Have you noticed the new cars can deal with 115° summer heat with the air on and still run great without vapor locking or getting too hot like old cars? One of the biggest challenges is making an old car have cold air in 115° weather and still run strong without running too hot. I have a 1976 Pontiac firebird with a 400 and it may not be a 488 stroker but it can still generate an enormous amount of heat and I'm always looking for ways to improve it. I noticed that the new big heavy duty trucks with big engines still use belt drive fans and that's really the only way to keep a big V8 cool in extreme summer the only problem with that is if you stomp it while the fan clutch is engaged it will spin the fan like crazy and robb about 50 horsepower. Do not use a standard duty fan clutch in a very hot climate with a big engine and the AC on or it WILL overheat big engines need a heavy duty thermostatic fan clutch in extreme heat with the proper fan blade. I've also noticed that my five blade fan moves more air than my seven blade. My seven blade moves air up and sideways for some strange reason but the five blade moves it straight against the engine and seems to do better and high output electric fans forget it. They only have capacity for big engines in nice weather without the AC on. I had to use four electric fans to cool off the beast in extreme heat with ac and cooked my 150 amp alternator in two years and those aren't cheap. I have an idea about installing an electric magnetically engaging fan clutch that will be more interactive that just a bimetal thermostat. It can be disengaged when you floor it with a full throttle switch so the fan won't rev to seven grand that's not necessary then after a few seconds from using the passing gear it re engages and also has a thermostatic switch strapped to the lower radiator hose to sense when it should engage when hot also a high limit switch that overrides the full throttle switch in case the engine is getting a little too warm and will make the fan stay engaged even at full throttle. I noticed a fan clutch that's used on a diesel caterpillar c7 has a magnetic fan clutch that looks like it will fit a Pontiac engine they are very expensive but I found one on eBay for $189 and am going to experiment. My c7 caterpillar magnetic fan clutch has arrived in the mail and the water pump mounting flange is a little big and the center hole is big and will need a "custom" homemade bushing but is slotted and lines up with the holes on the Pontiac but the fan won't mount to the clutch I can drill it but it has to be exactly centered or it will be out of Ballance. Maybe I can try ordering the plastic fan that supposed to mount to the clutch it has I think 9 blades hahahaha 😆 I don't know if it will rub the shroud or go in too deep if its close I will have to use solid motor mounts

[@FastMonty]

Good stuff Chris! Yeah, back in the day, we experimented with fan clutches, and different flan blade sizes all the time... the biggest issue is sitting at idle. (As with almost all Pontiacs) That's why I have electric fans now. Your idea sounds very similar to newer brushless fans, which monitor the coolant temp and change rpm accordingly, use a soft start, and generally overall less amp draw. That's on my list to test in the future... when you test your new fan idea, maybe try and get some CFM readings? Here's how I did it; kzbin.info/www/bejne/porOpoGGZrehpa8 Can't wait to hear your results.

[@chriscimino7854]

I also have an idea about using the cold waste water from the airconditioner to cool the fuel lines by making a homemade heat exchanger. That should help with vapor lock. I had to put a heavy duty thermostatic fan clutch for summer. It won't run hot even at idle but it pull the horsepower down. It will run hot with a standard duty but not with a heavy duty. Then there's severe duty which will give 90% water pump drive speed. Heavy duty is 80% standard duty is only 60% then there's magnetic which is 100% and is electrically disengageable but I don't know how it will do yet 😁. I'm hoping to get all the benefits of severe duty with the efficiency of disengaging it at will

[@FastMonty]

@@chriscimino7854 Awesome stuff! Keep us posted!

[@chriscimino7854]

@@FastMonty well I haven't got an answer back from Horton yet. They're the company that manufactured the magnetic clutch part number 996020. I emailed them asking what part number fan fits it but all I got was a return email reading they will get back to me. Looks like I'm going to have to carefully drill the stock car fan. Most magnetic fans are plastic and 24" and larger and might hit the fan shroud anyway. Diesel engines are slow and I hope this clutch can withstand 5500rpm

[@FastMonty]

@@chriscimino7854 Ha! Not surprised... welcome to the world of modification. From my experience, no manufacture will recommend anything not already tested by them. ie, will it fit in my car, etc... They won't even tell me dimensions of parts. So, that's why half of my videos exist to show how to make parts fit, etc... anyway, keep us posted. Thanks!

[@musclebone7875]

Great modification!! 👍

[@FastMonty]

Thanks!

[@Michael-gu3tj]

Do you need the ball valve?

[@FastMonty]

Nope. I added that as an experiment. Thanks!

[@josephgeorgeejr7039]

Monty..as a man who loves gtos, I really like see u get the spoiler for the goat, just seems like a simple way to look faster 😆 lol

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Thanks... my Dad bought this car brand new, and does NOT like the spoiler. So, the spoiler probably isn't going to happen. Thanks!

[@jsbeck1959]

Hi. Where did you get the AN fitting equipped thermostat housing?

[@FastMonty]

Great question.. I go through it on this video... kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIilqnVvoM2lhdk

[@keysautorepair6038]

We're did you get the an hose and fittings for the radiator.

[@FastMonty]

Autoplumb... here's the video about it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIilqnVvoM2lhdk Thanks!

[@garylonghair2000]

I have mine run under the intake to the crossover

[@FastMonty]

Yup! Great spot to do that! Thanks for dropping a comment!

[@georgejackson408]

Plumb it under the intake manifold. That will keep it all contained within the engine.

[@FastMonty]

Yup, that works too... but, I still wanted my heater box to work. You can't do that when plumbing directly under the intake. Thanks!

[@georgejackson408]

@@FastMonty 👍

[@FastMonty]

Thanks!@@georgejackson408

[@tatertots-n-soup]

Until it leaks.. then what do you do? Plus the temps go up. The oil goes slug the eng8ne goes knock knock bang

[@petercook3143]

Why didnt you just use one of the 3 threaded location on top and relocate the temp sensor to the head? ports there as well.

[@FastMonty]

You could T off any of the cross over ports, yes. Not as cool as adding my own AN port, is it? ha, ha... (There are no ports in the head itself) Thanks!

[@jeffreyjohnson6968]

Do you think for those that don’t have a welder to weld aluminum they could t off of one of those top ports with the sensors and run it to that?

[@FastMonty]

Great question! Yes, absolutely! Check out these guys for more ideas... www.precisionautomotivespecialists.com/Pontiac-Engine-Parts.html?fbclid=IwAR1aUkBbg-nQXrCpEsew67l3uhNwO35Y60B1BnHl9-RDZhtaYQbJtGO8qrs

[@jeffreyjohnson6968]

@@FastMonty I just talked to those guys and they are in process of making one without a restrictor and incorporating a thermostat in it so I’ll be in the look out for that

[@jeffreyjohnson6968]

@@FastMonty but i found many other things from them im interested and my wife will now hate you but i Thankyou lol