FD3S RX7 Drift Build Rundown!

[@Hi.chance]

This was great! The 7 sounds so good. Happo looks so different in the day time

[@JK-lz3xp]

Quality and content of these vids is brilliant guys, definitely one of the best channels out there

[@AndrewDate]

Thank you! Plenty more to come!

[@iownskulllighter]

The quality on these videos is awesome , camera work , audio everything great stuff guys

[@devonglover8376]

I agree with the stock mazda engine philosophy ilia preaches this as well and motor lasted him 15+ years

[@AndrewDate]

can't say I'd recommend their new engines without opening it up. Have seen first hand how bad some are and even the new parts I ordered when I built mine I had to return some 2 times before I got parts without burs on the bearings, rotor housing surface flaking etc. Unfortunately their quality control isn't what it used to be but when you do get good ones the product itself is great! Much more capable than most think.

[@devonglover8376]

@@AndrewDate oh i didnt mean a stock crate engine. i just meant when rebuilding using mostly oem internals

[@MickBergin]

Loving the videos & updates mate, think we use to play LFS together 10+ years ago. Looks like you are living the dream cheers

[@AndrewDate]

no way! what was your name on there? 😅

[@MickBergin]

@@AndrewDate Haha played as iMick / Mick, I would have been like 16, fun times, a lot of time spent on that game 🤣 I remember a guy called Slider, and Slyda, Aussie drift boys (ADB) there was another crew/team with purple in their tag also, those were the days, Fern Bay Gold Rev was where it was at

[@AndrewDate]

@neoollierulz I remember! Some good memories for sure.

[@kungfuclutch2788]

I agree with you I been running Mazda seals for 7 years 22 pound 515 hp gets beaten on 💪🏽

[@ImEasyAs]

Glad I saw this comment. I was going to say that .8 bar of boost is not really "beating on the car" or showing that it's reliable, but 22pound is a significant amount ;)

[@mantistoboggan7347]

Not sure if I missed it, but what porting? bridge?

[@AndrewDate]

Half bridge! KMR Template

[@bennyb.1742]

It's really interesting to see such a "USDM"/Aussie style FD build existing in Japan. Do other people kind of bug out on how different it is from most FD builds over there?

[@AndrewDate]

Assuming you mean engine/gearbox wise? I tried to do it the Japanese way and spent way too much time and money at popular rotary shops here only to leave me with 6 dead engines and not a single drift day 😅. It's very uncommon to see a self built rotary drift car in Japan and even the competitions I have been doing the only other rotary or rx7 competitors are fully prepared teams/dedicated shops. It's definitely the odd one out and with that brings alot of curiosity from people and even recently I took it to a shop here for a dyno rental with my tuner in Australia remote tuning online and they went from being very skeptical to very impressed with the car being fully tuned within a few runs with better results than they were expecting. The reliability this car has given with this combo gets compliments even from the piston competitors and I think is testament to all the technology advances and Omar from Raceonly's experience of really pushing and understanding these engines. Long story short it has the parts on it that we believe it NEEDS to do the job reliably and having tried both styles I 100% agree this is the only way to go.

[@nico179]

I know that road

[@genga6]

So it's better to have it an oem apex seal rather than the after market one? Or is it better to have a 2 pieces instead 3 pieces

[@AndrewDate]

Oem only available in 2pc new, the early fd3s came with 3pc seals. I'm using oem Mazda 2pc 2mm apex seals.

[@thecrustysemons1171]

Exhaust setup and material ? Sound awesome 😮

[@AndrewDate]

Turblown cast stainless manifold G40-900 Turbo Twin Turbosmart wastegates (Open) 3.5 inch stainless exhaust 1 AES 3.5inch muffler at the rear

[@kdavidse]

Who did you say tunes it? I have a Haltec 2500 in hand, but don’t know who to go with.

[@AndrewDate]

Omar @ Raceonly

[@attackmaximum]

can you get really low on the dg5 coilovers? I've always been really interested in them for fc

[@AndrewDate]

I would say yes you can, with FC you will likely have your rear toe arms pressing into the floor before your coilovers are maxed out. For reference i still have a lot of room to lower the FD with them but to be fair my car isn't slammed.

[@attackmaximum]

@@AndrewDate okay thats awesome to hear, Im currently on a set of old cusco zero 2 and Id definitely like to save for a set of dg2. Would be nice to upgrade once and never feel a need to upgrade again

[@mingscustoms]

What bendy apex seals are you referring to?

[@AndrewDate]

Any that are "unbreakable". Some of them are better than others, If you absolutely have to use them I'd probably go Rotary Aviation i had decent results with them. Unless you are intentionally being careless and it's a test engine or something, go Mazda oem 2pc.

[@zeeks4338]

Your car spec seems Similar to Apex D1 Project. Do you take an inspiration from it?

[@AndrewDate]

Visually yeah absolutely! I'm not a big fan of the very "gt" looking widebodys for fd3s so the vertex ridge is the best choice for me.

[@run_stop_restore]

Nice Build, what A/R are you running on the 6070G Hotside?

[@AndrewDate]

Thank you! It's the T4 1.06

[@run_stop_restore]

@@AndrewDate Thanks Mate, hope to see the Car in Person at Autumn Matsuri :)

[@Skyrexx7]

Mazda oem apex seals will shatter and damage everything if you have any detonation. If the tune is right no problem with oem seals. There are many good unbreakable apex seals out there, it's on you the owner to decide which apex seals you want. At the back of your mind if that oem Seals gets any detonation, you can say good bye to the engine and straight to the trash.

[@AndrewDate]

I've tried all the "good" aftermarket seals on the market and by changing nothing else other than apex seal type to oem my idle afr went from 12.5 to 14 😅. The car runs better in absolutely every aspect on oem seals. If you are a drag racer and running insane levels of boost and still learning the limits of things I can see the concern but 90% of people have 0 need for anything other than oem. I have lost fuel pressure under load and boost multiple times recently due to a surge tank issue, driven hard with very high IAT, overboost due to melted wastegate lines and yet the seals are unharmed and over 4 years old at this point. I used to think the exact same thing about why anyone would want oem but since trying it you simply get a better engine. Can it blow up? Yes. Can anything? Yes

[@Skyrexx7]

@AndrewDate I've heard good and bad stories about oem and other after market apex seals. At the end of the day it comes down to the tune . Even if you thought you could have had detonation with all the hard stuff you mentioned, I don't think you had any detonation enough to hurt the engine. My experience was I had a tuner who kept blowing my apex seals, and at the 3rd engine failure I was thinking of going oem, but I decided to stay after market seals due to the high boost application I was going to run, and I know any detonation the oem seals will be shattered. I stayed with after market seals with a better tune and got rid of the last tuner and I've had zero issues. All the best with your setup, but my take is a very good tune makes all the big difference.

[@AndrewDate]

​@@Skyrexx7 if the seal doesnt break it just means its softer and will fail before the harder one. Yes it may cause less damage but it also may never have failed with the oem. They also are notorious for trashing housings so if you would be expecting to replace housings next time its apart anyway whats the real advantage? I personally think they are a band aid for poor tuning and unless you are 50psi+ and not confident in what you are doing you are just sacrificing so much for so little. If the car is tuned badly your parts list is irrelevant of course and unfortunately you wont know until its too late and is a whole different issue. Regardless of all of it i have seen first hand how much better oem seals work under operation on an otherwise identical setup and not only are they better it couldnt be anymore reliable. So why re-invent the wheel when mazda has already spent millions doing so.