Fender '65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue DRRI Mods | How To AB763 Modifications

How to mod a Fender '65 Deluxe Reverb (DRRI) for better reverb control, normal channel reverb mod, normal channel Bassman tone stack mod (like a '68 Custom Deluxe Reverb), and clipping the bright cap on the vibrato channel. For me, this nails John Mayer's 2018/2019 Dead & Company tones.
Source for the mods: robrobinette.c...
Fender '65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue: amzn.to/2RZoTPz
220k ohm & 1.5M ohm resistor: tubedepot.com/...
.022uF capacitor for the Bassman Tone stack: tubedepot.com/...
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#johnmayer #fenderdeluxereverb #mod

[@mikecamps7226]

I haven't pulled up the deluxe reverb reissue schematic and layout but its not much different than the original schematic conceptually. I have accumulated about 40 years of experience actively with vacuum tube audio, but my expertise runs deeper as my father was an RCA dealer, so I actually grew up in electronics....from vacuum tube era thru solid state......so I am not an amateur hack. I will tell you that yes it is beneficial to add reverb to the dry side channel. You would examine the schematic and find that the 2 channels have a signal cap that is the output cap of that channel.....dry side is usually a .047uf and the reverb is usually a .02uf cap. You will notice that the reverb channel has its output signal cap going directly to the reverb circuitry input cap which is a 500pf cap....direct connection. On the other side of that 500pf cap its connected to the grid of the 12at7 reverb driver tube and a 1 meg resistor that has an opposite side ground connection. The 1 meg resistor is the grid resistor for that reverb driver tube which could also be substituted with a 1 meg pot as its functionality is a volume control for that reverb driver tube.....but being a reverb circuit it would be called the dwell control. The fender outboard reverb units had 3 controls....Dwell/Mix/Tone, so rather than having an adjustable dwell function in the fender amps with built in reverb....they chose to have a fixed dwell setting. It is this 1 meg resistor that you should alter and adjust. I would swap it out with a 470K resistor or one that's slightly smaller as this controls how hard the reverb tank is hit with signal to drive it. With a lot of signal the reverb can be very wooly and blurry and over driven so your note articulation is blurred and not clear. SO dialing back the dwell setting allows you to clarify the reverb response. But there is also the reverb recovery tube that amplifies the signal coming out of the tank and that also needs to be clear and its on this tube that the reverb control knob is located in the reverb circuit. You will notice that the reverb recovery tube grid resistor is a 220K fixed resistor, and this is an OK value so its set in theory so the gain of the tube if it were a volume control.....it would be set at around 2 on the dial.....if the dial goes to 10, so its set for a clean signal to be amplified. But in reality, the cathode of that tube has a bias resistor of 1.5K along with a bypass cap. You want to adjust the bias of this tube to have less gain which means swapping the 1.5K cathode resistor with like a 3.3K resistor.....this tames down the reverb somewhat. But the final adjustment is that the reverb recovery tube is label as being a 12ax7......you would change this tube to a JJ 12at7 tube and this will achieve a reverb that's awesomely clear and articulate......but the setting for the reverb that you would have set it at prior to changing all this....won't obviously be the same. What will happen is that with the clarity of the reverb....you can dial up the reverb control higher....as the high that you can get on the dial is letting more signal thru the amp to drive the phase inverter and the power tubes.....which is what its all about when playing aa tube amplifier. So there are a couple tweaks to add in to this situation, the reverb input cap is a 500pf cap which limits the frequency's going in to the reverb circuit. To richer it up, you can change the 500pf cap to a 1000pf cap which will let more mid signal in and a little more lows. A 100pf cap is the same as a .001uf cap, and the 500pf cap is usually a ceramic disk cap which is crappy for audio signal.....so a .001 mylar polyester cap will sound better for response. You are lucky as I see that the bypass caps in your circuit board are not IC brand....which is Illinois caps.....which are functional but really sound crappy. You'd really want to swap out all Illinois caps in any recent fender amp. So in the schematic....the dry side and the reverb side both end out at a 220K resistor as a merger point going into the phase inverter. You really don't need to add a 220K resistor when you jump in reverb to the dry channel as some people suggest.....and the reverb side is direct coupled anyway.....so you'd just disconnect the wire running to the 220K at the phase inverter merger point and solder it to the junction of the 500pf cap of the reverb circuit. But this is the situation, the channel output signal caps.....they function as a frequency filter, so you should really have them be both the same value......being that a .047uf will pass more lows than a .02uf cap......and a .1uf cap will have even more lows than a .047uf cap. SO it depends on how much lows you want for your overall signal. So going over these things again......the 1 meg dwell resistor determines how hard the tank is driven......which then will affect how much more you have to dial up the reverb control knob on the control panel, so you start at 470K and probably want to drop it to a lesser value as it will require a listening test. The best thing to do if you are an advanced electronics person.....would be to substitute the 1 meg resistor with a trim pot wired as a rheostat with one of the lugs appropriately grounded.....wired into the spot where the 1 meg resistor is removed......as this would let you dial in the exact amount of dwell that you'd be comfortable with....but a trim pot cost more than a resistor but cuts time down having to swap resistors to home in on the right value you need for your preferences. so basically you want to change the dwell resistor and the reverb recovery tube's cathode biasing resistor and substitute a 12at7 for the 12ax7 in the reverb recovery tube socket. OK to address the tone stack to bassman conversion, this is nothing to do with a bassman as I assume they refer to the tweed bassman. The tweed bassman has a cathode follower tone stack and the deluxe reverb does not so therefore it can't be a bassman tone stack......plus the bass pot would be a 1 meg pot and the mid resistor which is a fixed resistor in the case of the deluxe reverb would have to be changed out to something more close to 25K rather than the 6.8K that's there which represents a 10K pot as the mid control in the black face/silver face amps when fender redesigned them from the tweed era circuits. They might have been referring to the cap values used in the tweed bassman, but even so....this is also an issue because the values you see in the 5F6A schematic were only good for the 1958 model thru mid 1959 on the tweed bassman as in mid year production in 1959...fender went to the 250pf/.02uf/.1uf with a 100k slope resistor which carried on into the last year of the tweed bassman in 1960. The slope resistor controls the tip in point for the controls as to where the treble control pot comes in to the spectrum of frequency's to work. There is 2 directions to go, 1) being that you have both channels set up to be exactly the same......which is fine, or 2) that you alter the tone stack. SO if you choose to alter the tone stack, a nice combination is to use a .001uf cap to substitute for the 250pf cap, and then use a .02uf cap for the .047uf cap and then use a .02uf cap for the .1uf cap and change the slope resistor from 100K to 82K. But the whole point of having reverb on both channels of the amp is this, you render both channels to be in phase with each other so they can be jumpered together much the same as they used to do with the old marshall plexi amps back in the day....which gives a more richer and thicker signal and tone....the phase inverter and the power tubes are thus driven with a more powerful signal. So you'd plug your guitar into the #1 input of one channel and then the #2 input of that channel gets a jumper lead to plug into the opposite channels #1 or #2 input. The side you plug your guitar in to is the dominant side and the jumper channel is the slave side.... the #1 input of the slave will be more prominent in effect and plugging in to the #2 will be a little less prominent. If you dial in both sides to be the same......it has a more robust tone over just using the typical one channel. WIth both side set the same, and this is to suggest that your tone controls are both on 10 and maxed......point being that the tone stacks in these amps are a high loss tone stack bleeding signal to ground...so you need them to be as high as they can be for the best signal getting through to the power tubes......But when both channels tone controls are set on 10.....if you dial out the treble pot on the slave side to zero but have the bass at 10...….this will thicken up the amps tone to be fuller. Doing the opposite will accent the high end. So effectively the amp is no longer a 1 trick pony. This is further enhanced by using an AB/Y switcher pedal so you can go between the 2 channels or the Y which would be them jumped together. SO its like having a 3 channel foot switchable amplifier. SO in exploiting the switcher......you could set one channel lower in volume than the other for a rhythm channel and the other can be the lead channel...and the 3rd is the blended channel. There are other things I'd do...but those are my trade secrets. In addressing what I saw written on your chassis with its power tubes being biased at 24 MA......you want to bias it higher to like 30 to 35 MA...… plus get rid of the GZ34 rectifier tube and swap it for a 5U4 rectifier tube as this will drop the plate voltages on the power tubes and power rail which is actually better for the 6V6 tubes.....and will warm it up a bit in response.

[@mikecamps7226]

one other thing is I saw written in your chassis that the power tubes are biased at 24ma.....you should up this to 30 to 35 ma and then get the power tube plate voltage to determine the plate dissipation...so when using the 5U4 and biased hotter....you want to get to like 25 to 30 watts for the combined plate dissipation factor for the power tube biasing. The V1 and V2 per-amp tubes are the critical tone and gain tubes in the amp.....and if they are the fender factory groove tubes...they could be Chinese or Russian tubes.....if they are Russian. they are usually groove tube graded 12ax7 wa sovteks which is a warm soft tube that can be on the dark side in response. An EH 12ax7 would be a good choice or a sovtek 12ax7 LPS.....you can cycle thru a variety of 12ax7 tubes to find the appropriate sounding tube for your guitar and playing style as they each have their own sonic characteristics ….they are not all the same in the 12ax7 family. And the %u4 rectifier should not have a sag factor to it as this is a fixed bias amp....sag is more about cathode biased power tubes and a rectifier tube like the 5U4 or the 5Y3. You just want the plate voltages down at 400 volts or less.....where as the deluxe reverb runs the plate voltages over 400 volts which is hard on 6V6 tubes. Less voltage is warmer and more tube sounding.

[@mikecamps7226]

I actually do more in what I do with a deluxe reverb....but those are my trade secrets......Again addressing the plate dissipation for bias...you don't want to "red plate" the tubes....by exceeding the plate dissipation.....so it depends on what tubes they put in it.....I usually see the Russian sovtek groove tubes in them from the fender factory. The JJ 6V6's can really take the heat compared to the sovteks…….and I'm a sovtek dealer since the mid 1980's as well as a ruby dealer. You can bias this amp hotter because the per-amp is not a high gain pre-amp and a high gain signal hitting the power tubes...….its kind of a medium strength signal amp because of the tone stack being a high loss type tone stack. Mesa Boogie back in the beginning had a novel gain boost which actually was lifting the ground point of the tone stack off the middle pot.....lifting the ground eliminated the tone stack and thus the signal loss.....which is perceived as a big gain boost. But lifting the ground to eliminate the tone stack changes the sonic response in doing that...so you get the pure tone of that particular tube...which could be nice or some degree less than nice.A good choice for the reverb driver tube is a 12at7 EH tube, and the reverb recovery tube would be a JJ 12at7 tube. The JJ type 12at7 tube is usually a warmer response tube than a EH12at7 tube. The V1 and V2 tubes are the most critical for determining tone.....and the phase inverter is much less critical for tone though has some effect....but not as dramatic as the V1 and V2. The reverb tubes only affect the tone and response of the reverb circuit. BUT the tank itself can be instrumental in performance......it should have an accutronics tank in it from the factory, but a MOD type tank will have a much more richer and dynamic response for the reverb character and are worth substituting.....but only use the 2 spring long delay tanks. A 3 spring type with long delay is just too much. Keep in mind that the reverb control knob is actually a mix control but not a balance pot as on a stereo......its only adds the reverb to the dry signal as the ratio between the wet and dry is fixed and the dry signal is a constant feed to the phase inverter tube.....you just add in reverb with the control knob thus the mix control. but adjusting the dwell lets you come up more on the reverb dial and more signal thus drives the phase inverter and the power tubes.

[@mikecamps7226]

again mentioning the reverb and dry signal being a ratio.....where reverb is added to the dry signal by the reverb control...…, you do not really want to deviate from the fender ratio that they use. I'm not clear as to the mod you were doing in this presentation is messing with the ratio situation as it was hard to follow your presentation. When you adjust the reverb circuit as I outlined here.....the dwell is the determining factor in the over saturation of the reverb circuit and its effect on the performance of the amp when dialing it in......and its affects on your playing and note articulation. A lot of guys I know only use a touch of reverb as like having the dial on 2 to 3 where as beyond 3 is too much effect for them. I personally like to play off the reverb so I like a nice wet reverb but not too saturated. SO an unmodified reverb would be at maybe 5 or 6 for me where 10 is also nice but way too saturated to really be useful. SO adjusting the reverb circuit as I outline lets you get up on the dial to like 7+ and adjusting the dwell resistance would determine how saturated it would be at wide open.....where your useable sweep of the dial is between 5 and 10.....even though there is reverb in the dial under 5. its the clarity of the reverb vs the saturation of the reverb signal where the clarity is useable and the saturation is beyond overkill when its the stock unmodified reverb. But adjusted like this, the deluxe reverb amp will be the most versatile amp you could possibly have. But also like I mentioned....I do way more and that's my trade secrets….

[@mikecamps7226]

I can appreciate the John Mayer thing, but keep in mind that the deluxe reverb is not actually an amp designed for a clean response. The circuit board by itself in the old original form is actually interchangeable with all of the fender reverb amps with the exception of the Princeton reverb......which is essentially a tweed deluxe circuit with added reverb and vibrato along with a fixed bias power tube section which would have represented the next evolution of the tweed deluxe had they stayed the course with it.....but as far as a princeton evolution...….the Princeton was a single power tube class A amp or a champ amp with a bigger speaker plus an added tone control......so the tolex era princetons are not true to the original tweeds. but back to the deluxe reverb, the preamp plate voltages are around 180 volts with a GZ34 rectifier as listed on the schematic.....which is in the zone of plate voltage for a 12ax7 to be more browner sounding and easy to break up......as opposed to a twin reverb with 225 volts on the preamp plates where its more headroom and more linear in response and harder to break up. Tweed bassmans ran the preamp plates lower at 140ish volts for even more juicier tone and breakup and more so if a 12ax7 is substituted for the 12ay7 that's called for in the bassmans…..which is less than half the gain of a 12ax7.

[@mikecamps7226]

being hard to follow in your presentation....I couldn't determine....but it appeared you might be adding a 1 meg resistor in series with the other components in the reverb circuit......and you'd really not want to do that. The less resistance in the forward progression of signal in a circuit the better as for the fidelity of the signal and purity of tone. If in fact you are adding a 1 meg resistor in series, its attenuating the signal and thus altering the wet dry ratio of the amp which would be less wet signal in the ratio so the dry signal gets more prominence . I'm trying to point you to being on the right track as being a tone chaser.…..

[@jameskostan1240]

ABSOLUTELY! This should be mandatory for all Fender Deluxe amplifiers! Had mine clipped and reverb is way more pronounced! I have a vintage tube technician who does all the pros stuff. Clipping the bright is like meeting GOD ! He did something where my Reverb is so pronounced unbelievable Reverb Plus !!

[@rigorhead01]

I did some of these mods several years ago on my DRRi. I added reverb/vibrato to the Normal channel, and removed the bright cap on the Vibrato channel. I've used the amp extensively for home practice, rehearsals, and gigs, and it's been awesome. It's totally reliable and sounds amazing. I'm still running the stock Jensen C12-K speaker. Most people claim that swapping this speaker to something else is another huge difference in tone. That'll be my next mod. My main amp for big shows is a Mesa/Boogie Electra Dyne.

[@TheToneGeek]

Awesome!!! That's reassuring the mods are helpful!! Thank you for sharing! ⚡

[@rescd4]

Thank You for taking the time to create this video and your blog. I'm a DIY tinkerer and would love to plunge into the deep end. You have greatly reduced my anxiety. I have a DDRI and will do the bright cap mod first. Again Thank You

[@TheToneGeek]

Thank you so much! I appreciate the positive feedback! Good luck and let me know how it goes!

[@elliotbradley]

yeah, whats the deal with the sound cutting out while explaining the normal channel reverb mod?

[@rockinws6567]

Good video, but you don't need to add the 220k resistor to the circuit. Anyone watching this intending on doing this wire mod works good but adding the 220k resistor to the circuit is not needed. It will mess with how the reverb works on the normal channel. I like the other mod you did to the reverb bypass circuit BUT try this CUT C13 and add a 250k dwell control after the 500pf reverb input cap keeping the 1meg resistor to ground. So to do this break out the input circuit to the reverb after the 500pf input cap. That lead coming after the cap will go to pin 3 on the 250k pot the other end will go to pin 2 and attach pin 1 to ground. You will now have DWELL control and love your reverb. Sorry for my prior comments, I was silly HEHE

[@TheToneGeek]

Thank you for watching!

[@dcbluez4883]

I build a good many P2P amps for my guitar player friends. When I do the V1 stage setup like for a Deluxe I usually have a Plexi style cathode resistor and bypass cap on one side of the tube. 2.7K and .68uF cap for Heads and usually a little higher value bypass cap for Combos since the cabs are smaller to get a good thump. One volume knob for V1A and another for V1B. Basically a Normal and Plexi setup. Blendable also since it has 2 volume knobs and 2 Tone knobs on my design.The Deluxe Reverb is a little different than a Deluxe since the Deluxe has another tube in the circuit but is an incredible design. Its too bad the Deluxe Reverb only has one preamp tube in the Normal channel circuit.

[@TheToneGeek]

Interesting!! I'm going to research that a bit. Thank you for your input!

[@AC-re5yj]

Always Discharge the caps before putting your hands in an amplifier!

[@bluesbondsman]

So far all I have done is clip the bright cap, switched the 250pf treble caps to 250pf Silver mica. Set the bias where it belongs and the amp sings ! 100% improvement so far ! I'll probably replace the .1 and .047 in the tone stack with better caps (orange drops) although I cant imagine a nicer sounding DRRI than this one now ! Stock C12K Jensen, it is however 16 years old so..... its well broken in !

[@bluesbondsman]

Oh and I'm running a 5V4GA rectifier

[@TheToneGeek]

@@bluesbondsman wow man!! That's great!! Thank you for sharing! What a happy report!

[@fairweatherfriends.]

How do you set the bias? And what is it for this amp?

[@ourlifeinwyoming4654]

The audio went dead when you were covering the shielded cable that you installed, etc.

[@Atttuner]

great content bro well done

[@TheToneGeek]

Thank you😎

[@cap217cap217]

Is there any way to make the Deluxe Reverb less boxy? I have a vintage one, a drri, and the handwired new version but they all sound boxy no matter what speaker goes in. I assume it has to do with no mid control and where the dip is in the frequency. And can you put the DR on a scope vs a Two Rock? Im curious if a DR can get close to a JM with a bunch of work. Any mods to get it there?

[@richardlocurto3475]

Never stick both hands on the chasis before discharging filter caps. You can not rely on filter caps discharging themselves

[@earlycuyler8719]

I know I'm late to the game but I put my bright cap on a switch in the back

[@milanaband7738]

Hi, I have a doubt about the C12 with the 220k resistor at 7:17 min: The assembly stays open circuit? the lifted end pin of C12 connected to both pins of the resistor and not connected to the board. Or does the lifted end pin of C12 connect to one pin of the 220K resistor and the other pin of the resistor connects to the board? Thanks in advance!!!

[@Woodgrove]

Hey! Thanks for posting this video! I'm about to attempt the robrob reverb mod and having your video to be able see the exact connections is super helpful. I'm slowly ordering all the things I need, but my biggest question right now is what kind of glue/rubber are you using to hold the lifted resistors/capacitors and wires in place? I've been looking up neutral cure silicone rubber and wondering if I'm on the right track, or if hot glue would be fine for this particular fix. Thanks again!

[@TheToneGeek]

Welcome!! Hot glue works great and is not going to corrode anything. Thanks for watching and let me know how your build goes!

[@dcbluez4883]

Actually clipping thr C10 bright cap is fine but really changing it to a 10pf silver mica would probably be a good thing. 47pf across a volume pot is way too much treble. But some sparkle with the right value and type of cap would be a good thing.

[@TheToneGeek]

That's a good idea too. My speaker is a Weber California with a aluminum cone (d120-ish clone) so I'm wondering if a 10pf on another speaker type would give it the same sparkle as the Weber gives me naturally. What do you think?

[@kellygotell1179]

Is it better to upgrade to a Jensen speaker? Also, is it difficult to replace the front mesh?

[@stevescapicchio9149]

Aren't these the same mods that fender provides in the 68 silverface reissue? That model is a few hundred cheaper and it sounds like it is the same amp at the end of your mods.

[@grosebud4554]

Does this mod help tighten up or cut some of the flabby bass that can happpen on the reissues? Compared to the vintage 60s DR the RI seems to have a bit more bass.

[@newgunguy4176]

How to add a mids knob to the amp?

[@newgunguy4176]

@@MartinPorto I know. That wasn't the question, though.

[@krauz111]

is there a video comparing the bassman tone stack mod?

[@perrywilliams7286]

could i bring you my vintage 59 fender bassman and 65 vintage fender twin reverb to tune up, I'd have to drive from Omaha Nebraska

[@jaycee30865]

Still needing service?

[@Battered_cheese]

When replacing the C4 capacitor in the normal channel tone stack, you say 0.022uF but does the voltage rating matter as well? It says 400v on the schematic does the replacement cap need to be 400v as well? Thank you

[@TheToneGeek]

Yes. 400v minimum. 600v orange drops are a fantastic replacement option as well :-)

[@peter13456]

clipping the bright cap on the vibrato channel eliminates the ticking noise?

[@tomjulian7226]

I tried to do the reverb...now the tremolo channel's reverb is way too much,...there's no reverb on the normal channel...and the tremolo channel sounds thin and weak. I've checked the work many times and compared it to what you said to do. It looks exactly like you said what to do.

[@TheToneGeek]

Oh no! How does your wiring look compared to Rob Robinette's instructions? (My source of information about this technique)

[@tomjulian7226]

The Tone Geek yeah I compared it. Something’s amiss on this mod.

[@paulwood1657]

When doing these mods do you discharge the filter caps first? If so could you please make a video showing how you do it. Thanks. Great video 👍

[@TheToneGeek]

Will do! I didn't have to since the bleed resistors take care of that. Best to let the amp sit unplugged for an hour to be sure but I'll make a video how to check and manually discharge. Thanks for the feedback!

[@paulwood1657]

The Tone Geek brilliant!! Thanks very much I look forward to it. Love ur videos btw 😄

[@TheToneGeek]

@@paulwood1657 Thank you! I really, really appreciate it! 🤗

[@paulwood1657]

The Tone Geek no problem, honestly it's good to find somebody on KZbin who knows what there talking about with electronics. Ive just starting learning about tube amp circuits the last few months so done basic tube swapping, biasing and swapping tube for ss rectifier etc but still nervous about putting my hands in one till I know more about discharging the filter caps. It's amazing tho the amount of so called experts on this site doing "mods" that I can tell even with my limited knowledge on the subject are going to kill the sound of the amp and that are potentially putting themselves in dangerous situations.

[@TheToneGeek]

@@paulwood1657 Nice! It sounds you can "see into the Matrix" already! I need to make a discharge clip.. I recommend this approach while I make a video of the same thing. www.ampmaker.com/discharging-capacitors-946-0.html . You can find donor alligator clips on Amazon too if you're in the US. amzn.to/2Mw2XWX and attach a 10k 2w rated resistor in the middle and attach the alligator clips to both ends of the filter caps. Measure the voltage with a DMM and it should be close to zero after a few seconds :-)

[@seltzer5334]

Hi. I’m thinking about getting one of these amps but I’m concerned overdrive pedals might not sound great with them. Do overdrives sound good on the normal channel without having to mod it? Or would you say an amp like the hot rod deluxe iv would be a better pedal platform? Thanks.

[@TheToneGeek]

A HRD and Deluxe Reverb have two different things going on. I'd say it comes down to how loud you want to play because the HRD is easily something you could play with in a band and the deluxe reverb would start breaking up naturally before you'd be able to get your guitar over a drummer. Both are great amps but HRD might have an edge for pedal platform since it's cleaner, louder

[@RJ4960]

The Tone Geek That's my experience (I swapped my DeVille for a DRRI), but I would take the Deluxe any day for sheer tone. It does respond well to TS-type OD pedals, too, plus compression. In larger venues I mic the amp, but more clean headroom would be very welcome - another mod project?

[@jimkostan9932]

@@RJ4960 you have the same story as myself. I DITCHED THE TWEED BLUES DEVILLE REISSUE 4x10 for a 65 deluxe Reverb. I also use compressor w/ tube screamer: Clipping the bright switch gave me more Clean Headroom that doesn't start to break up until I get to about 6-7; it broke up at 4 before. Great pedal amplifier just as good as my Fender SF 75 twin for pedals. I dig running both of those in Stereo together, but I don't think the neighbors like that s h i t?

[@DustinHaggerty-lj1ix]

How do I keep from getting electrocuted!!????

[@markthackway274]

which WGS speaker is that?

[@lilyl2743]

Deadhead! Chinacat...

[@TheToneGeek]

Guilty as charged ⚡⚡

[@C-Stanz]

Does the bassman tone stack mod for the normal channel have any effect on the vibrato channels sound?

[@TheToneGeek]

The NOR/Bassman tone stack itself does not have an effect on the vibrato channel sound. They are independent tone stacks. The Reverb mod for the Normal channel also does not interfere with the Vibrato channel which is nice. Great question!

[@C-Stanz]

@@TheToneGeek Thanks for the response.

[@j-s5462]

Is it possible to do the tone stack on the trem channel?

[@TheToneGeek]

Yup! absolutely

[@tehjohnsonite]

Great, so how does it sound before/after? :D

[@TheToneGeek]

ha! I wish I took some great before footage :-( I was too excited to perform the mods that I got sloppy. Trust me, it sounds great! lol

[@jimkostan9932]

@@TheToneGeek I disagree, some of us dont like to fix something if it's not broken .As a guitarist a 55-plus .My professional Tech clipped my bright cap; He claimed I'd love it! and did something else changed a tube or too and my overdrive/break up was no more. I miss my 65 Deluxe breaking up naturally. What in the F happened?!

[@jimkostan9932]

I am not a fan of this mod. Didn't do this 50 years ago so why they doing it now? Kids just want to play. F my amplifier up should have kept it the way I bought it.

[@markthackway274]

@@jimkostan9932 then don't worry about it

[@garygratzer9670]

Do you realize your sound cut off in the most complex part of your mod process. Extremely frustrating.

[@MrMd5555]

Seemed like that was on purpose. Maybe he misspoke or gave unsafe advice or something but only realized after posting ?? Idk

[@fosterzar]

Hey man. I am trying to remove the circuit board but it is getting stuck behind the tremolo knob - it hits some metal pot looking thing. Any tips?

[@TheToneGeek]

That's your bias adjust. You may need to remove it under the chassis

[@fosterzar]

The Tone Geek your the man. That was it. Appreciate the help

[@guitarpenter3357]

John Mayer using a Deluxe, is it a blackface?

[@TheToneGeek]

yes, indeed!

[@DENIEL381]

ANYONE TRYING THIS SHIT THAT'S NOT A REAL TECH WITH EXPERIENCE IS LOOKING FOR TROUBLE TAKE IT SOMEWHERE WHO KNOWS WHAT THERE DOING AND STOP TRYING TO BE CHEAP, CHEERS.

[@russellesimonetta3835]

Those amps do sound great but i hate the pcb,s!!!! I like the old s hool handwired. The durability is kind of shitty. I mean they can pay mexican,s nothing to handwire them and fender customers deserve better. Besides leo fender had mexican girls handwiring them back in the day.