Fender '65 Reissue Deluxe Reverb Mods

[@HongkeyKong]

Thank you for your videos. I have been loving and learning watching them. I have a question: I have noticed at 3:48, carbon comp resistor upgrades were pointed out. I believe they are the input plate resistors. There is an opinion that you should use CCs in later stages. I'm curious why you like using them at the input stages. Is it for maximising the pleasing breakup tones?

[@MrSixDemonBag]

My tech added a mids pot for me. What a great addition. The single biggest change to the amp…..over speakers, tubes, clipping bright caps

[@SuperBatiskaf]

Few days ago I completed my last DRRI modification. Replaced the Jensen C12K to Jensen C12Q, top harsh was gone. And finally I just shorted out the C10 capacitor on Vibrato channel, through the switch, the switch located on rear panel. Now the amp totally versatile, I can use this channel for clean and pedals as well. The breakup starts from 4 now, because of C10 shortage. I like it. The mod for in about 120 dollars, that's it.

[@simonpieman1653]

Oh my god spaghetti bolognese

[@DanielleEmberley]

Noting that cream color PC board goes back to 1993, I have to wonder what year this particular amp was assembled and what changes / improvements have been made over the years between year 1993 and 2021.

[@PsionicAudio]

Aside from ditching the dummy ground switch the amps haven't changed since the cream board era.

[@montag4516]

Thanks for sharing this video. The chickenhead knob on the backside pot is a simple but brilliant idea. For using shielded wire to that added mids tone pot, just solder each end of the shielding to it's corresponding pot? Less noise and hiss is always preferable.

[@PsionicAudio]

I have the shield connected at the PCB ground where the stock 6.8K residue was, and the other end of the shield is on lug 1 of the new Mids pot.

[@paulp2033]

@@PsionicAudio Hi Lyle and Happy New Year to you. Re the actual outer shield of the shielded cable for the mids. It looks like the shield at the pot side is cut away. I.e. only attached at pot side. Could you please confirm? Also , do you put another resistor in series with the pot and if so, which value ? Thanks a lot, and thanks again for all the info and experience you pass on in your outstanding channel.

[@leonardorohr9261]

@@paulp2033 he,s never going to tell you details of the mods exact values, Lyle is pure greed, I think he removed de 6.8k original resistor on the PCB and installed a 20k or 25k linear pot connected where the original resistor was, all with shielded cable at the back of the chassis, Hope this helps.

[@littlecrow6484]

Just wondering if there's an amp tech in Richmond, VA that would be able to perform the same mods as you ?

[@theochristie4875]

Sounds great. Nice mods.

[@andrewarevalo8838]

All of this work done on the deluxe reverb reissue is amazing! Where are you located? I’d love to have all these mods done to mine!

[@CalvinMaclure]

Wait... you removed the led FREE sodder and replaced with LEADED sodder??? Why??

[@michaelragan5799]

Thank You for this vid....I will have these mods applied to mine by my tech

[@masonianbund]

Forgive the rookie question… When running the coax from the volume knob (to bypass the ribbon cable after cutting trace & bright cap), where would the shield ends of the coax connect? I get that the “hot” just solders in at the appropriate terminals, but where do the ends of the shield wire connect?

[@PsionicAudio]

Shield to a ground point at the pot end. No connection at the tube socket end.

[@masonianbund]

@@PsionicAudio you're a national treasure sir

[@williammelton2037]

Do you offer a DIY kit for the 65 Deluxe Reverb reissue? I would be very interested in purchasing it. My reverb and vibrato is very noisy on my amp. Also when playing for an hour or so my volume will dip.

[@PaigeArmstrong]

Sounds Great! thanks for the tips.

[@gulfsidestudios3995]

Do you sell instructions/parts list to these DR mods. I have a very thorough, competent tech that could do what you’re describing.

[@michaelragan5799]

I would very much like to know the cost of these mods...and if you don't mind the shipping seperate. I am very interested in getting this done....I noticed your saying this amp came from Colorado and since I am in Denver, it is very relative. Also do include main capacitor mods under the 'doghouse' as you put it. Thank You....Mike

[@midnightbackhand]

The flyback diode(s) mentioned in the vid, I'm only seeing a single diode on my DRRI's board (CR1). Rookie question...is that diode intended to protect the transformer and output tubes in case of no speaker load?

[@PsionicAudio]

The DRRI doesn’t have flybacks. CR1 is the diode in the bias supply that rectifies AC into negative DC.

[@midnightbackhand]

@@PsionicAudio Thank you! I've read you can add resistors to the jack? to provide flyback protection (I think)?

[@ericheder777]

How would you go about getting reverb and trem in both channels? When you mentioned the mod that was on there, i assume it was the wire from one resistor to another? Seen the mod online somewhere.....

[@PsionicAudio]

Fender uses a DC mixer which is very noisy. See Rob Robinette’s site where he shows how to do an AC mixer.

[@scottmclain740]

I just purchased a ‘65 reissue deluxe reverb. The min trem setting is seems too fast. So this is normal?

[@Mirco1967r]

Good evening, I live in Italy and I would like to ask if it was possible to explain the lack of cables in the following sectors CP3 CP4 CP5 CP6 CP7 CP8 I don't understand why they are there in mine and they are missing in the one seen in the videos. These videos are a masterpiece

[@PsionicAudio]

Grazie. Those are used for 240V mains connections, not 120V mains.

[@jerrymcgeorge4117]

So, did the shielded grid wire on the Vibrato channel cure the hiss? I just got a '68 Custom DR and the hiss level is to me nuts. That seems like a sensible way to deal with it. I got rid of some of the amps excessive hum by dealing with the lead dress on the heaters. (Fender had zip tied them to the reverb transformer leads and the standby switch.) I'm really surprised at how they ground the PT CT, heater CT and power supply filter caps with this design. It looks like all the grounds ultimately go to the board and then ground through the pots. I'm wondering if the hum could be knocked down by wiring the heaters in traditional fashion to and from the pilot light with an artificial center tap (eliminating the heater tap to the board off V7 and installing 2x 100 ohm resistors grounded at the PT) and then grounding the PT CT and power supply filters on a PT stud. Wouldn't be much work and could quiet the amp down. Thoughts?

[@BrewReview]

I bought the ‘68 at first but that noise drove me too crazy and I ended up returning it for a ‘68. Much more suitable for studio use, imo. That ‘68 DID sound the part, but maaan.. interested to see if there would have been a somewhat cheap way to fix that though.

[@jerrymcgeorge4117]

@@BrewReview I ended up grounding the power transformer, power supply filter caps and heater ACT at the power transformer, attaching the heter leads directly to V8 removing the board jumper to V7 and changing the NFB resistor to 820 ohms. Amp is now virtually silent.

[@krausewitz6786]

@@jerrymcgeorge4117 Did you bother with the shielded wire? I'm trying to reduce hiss as well....

[@jerrymcgeorge4117]

@@krausewitz6786 No, the other alterations I made cured the noise issues.

[@Fugettaboutit]

I always use the .1 and .02 caps in tone circuits too. Also, someone a while back recommended changing the coupling cap on the phase inverter from .001uf to .01uf for more bass, but that can introduce some blocking distortion so I go in between with like a .0022-.0047uf. Easier on a handwired DR, of course. Was the mid pot added to the circuit essentially how it would be in a Super or Twin?

[@PsionicAudio]

Sorry, didn't see your reply until now. Be careful going over 2.2nF on the PI input - can get woofy. Remember the PI input impedance is bootstrapped, so is about twice the value of the input grid leak (1M in the AB763). So it doesn't take a large input cap. The Mids pot here between 7:00 and Noon has the range of a Twin Mids pot. Over Noon it gets into boost.

[@lenmil8421]

Could you do the same mods or are these mods needed in a super reverb?

[@DavidGarcia-pi9wn]

i heard this muds up the amp but since i cannot crank my amp, i was hoping this plus a celesion vintage 30 would balance out well enough so i can use overdrive pedals without feeling sick to my stomach

[@911elijah]

that sounds amazing. What was the cost? Priceless?

[@Badhands55]

Yes I would like to know also - thanks

[@mattfisher401]

you said you changed one of the pots for the "Marshall Mod" to a 1K... did you mean 1M?

[@Damaraja]

Please forgive me if the answer to this question is well known, but would you be willing to perform all of these (and the longer vid’s) improvements if I sent you my ‘65 PR reissue chassis? Naturally I would cover any/all service & shipping costs (plus whatever else may be required). I just think you would do a better job than any tech I can find locally (O’ahu, Hawaii). Thanks in advance for your time and videos. All apologies if you do no longer accept amps from viewers. Respectfully, D 🤙

[@masm5843]

Would it be easier/more cost effective to convert the amp to hand wired instead of modding and recapping for longevity?

[@PsionicAudio]

No. About $350 for the complete mods vs about $1200 to gut and rebuild fully. And to do it right. There are those who will do it cheaper. They don't do it right.

[@tomneily9506]

I want these mods where are you located

[@codygoins8832]

Is there a way to ship the amp to someone who does this? I do not have a amp tech in my area.

[@FLdb-wj4wc]

How much does it cost for those mods?

[@PsionicAudio]

Thanks for asking. As parts cost change from year to year, I don't want to answer that here and have arguments if in five years the cost has gone up. So please contact me at [e-mail] for current pricing.

[@sunday.76]

So basically these amps are cheap trash in stock form.

[@weschilton]

No they are NOT. But if you gig them hard they will have a failure sooner rather than later.

[@keithclark486]

I have 2 of them ... Run in stereo , giged them 3 nights a week for almost two years Only replaced the tubes in that 2 year period. No they are not junk They are very dependable Amps And have held up Good in some rough environments.

[@Wingman52]

I've got one of these, bright cap is switchable, and it has a vintage 30 in it. I've played some vintage hand-wired amps that sound like crap. Mine sounds really good to my ears. Not cheap trash at all.

[@sunday.76]

@@Wingman52 yeah I have one as well. If anything I’ve replaced the cheap filter caps with FNT for dependability. I’ve had no other issues this far.