Fermentation Under Pressure Easy Guide

[@GreySectoid]

I'm just setting up my first pressure fermentation and this was really helpful. It's crazy to think I am just one of the 134k brewers world-wide who are learning from this video and we then further share our beers with our families and friends, probably millions are enjoying the work and effort you have put into your channel. I think it's not wrong to say that you are a rock star of craft beer.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great stuff Terry, that is always very nice to hear 🍻🍻🍻

[@peterscandlyn]

Unaware how YT sussed how I was getting into pressure fermentation, yet they did. Very helpful work there David. Thank you.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Peter, I am sure they can read minds!! 😜. Great to hear that this video was helpful. 🍻🍻🍻

[@Stormyinc_]

​​​@@DavidHeathHomebrew can the blowtie spunding valve be used as a regular airlock if I wish to ferment without pressure the hole fermenting period? Or should I use a regular airlock?

[@BEERNBBQBYLARRY]

Good stuff. It aligns with my experience. I typically use 15 psi with great results. I once fermented at about 20-25 psi and the FG finished a little higher than expected.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks Larry :)

[@stephenbracken]

Thanks for taking the time to make these guides (and product reviews), I'm very new to brewing but the wealth of information you provide is giving me a great foundation to start from. All the best.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Stephen, Glad you are finding the videos useful :)

[@tomar3]

Likewise. Thank you David

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you 🍻🍻🍻

[@lindafoxwood9091]

Pressure fermentation is something I would like. This video has given me the way to do my next beer batch. You have been a great inspiration all the time I have seen your videos. Good job. :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Linda. Certainly its something I do recommend and use a lot myself too. Cheers 🍻🍻🍻

[@fachu2]

Another great video David, thank you. I combined this with you Czech Pilsner with Lallemand Kveik yeast. Worked perfectly for my daughters 21st birthday and many of the young people really enjoyed.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Jason 🍻🍻🍻

[@fachu2]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm going to give a few more of your recipes a run now. Really looking forward to trying your American Pale Ale and the Verdant Tropical IPA.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Jason. Last night I released my Verdant Tropical Pale ale recipe too 🍻🍻

[@andysouza3109]

David, do you add CO2 to the vessel before you add the beer? Also do you constantly check the pressure? The Spunding valve should be releasing the pressure without having to check correct? Thanks in advance.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The CO2 is added after the beer is transferred. I weigh it in using a manometer to the correct level to set up the spunding valve. You should not need to check it after this.

[@DannyLevan1]

Attempting my first ever brew this weekend using a keg King Apollo Unitank. Wish me luck!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Good luck! 🍻🍻🍻

[@kenfowler5407]

Thx David - cleared up a few conflicting stories I had heard about pressure fermenting cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

That is great to hear Ken. Way too much bs out there sadly.

[@MrFcStPaulifan3]

Hello, in the chapter of „When to add pressure“ you said: „when it comes to Lager yeast this is usually done right at the start of fermentation“ Is this right after transfering the wort into the fermenter, or do I have to wait until I see bubbles, indicating my yeast has started working? Best Regards and thanks in advance!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, You can add pressure and set up your spunding valve right after wort transfer 🍻🍻🍻

[@robertbailey8012]

I've been brewing kits before going down the all grain route but run into a few issues on the last two batches thats knocked my confidence. Around day 3-4 I've had a very strong sulphur smell from the spunding valve, beginning to wonder if the yeast is stressed as sanitation etc all seems fine as other batches not under pressure have been fine. I've been pitching the yeast and applying 5psi straight away, should I let fermentation start for a couple of days before starting to apply pressure. I've been using Mangrove Jacks IPA kits if that helps. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sulphur can be a present with certain yeast types, especially lager yeast. Its nasty but normal 🍻🍻🍻

[@willschmit436]

Thanks for the video. Contrary to the intuitive belief, I brew lager under pressure in the warm weather, and ales using furnace room control in the cold weather. Thank you for pointing out that ales suffer under pressure, as their "off-flavors" are a recognized advantage...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Will. Yes, these are all important points

[@WasteofLiam]

Hi David, wonderful video as always. I just got myself the Cannular manual seamer, and am exploring my options for packaging further. My main issue is carbonation, and which route to take that will be most economical and repeatable. Here are my options: 1. Can condition beer, use a normal bottle filling wand and seam cans, leave at room temp for 1-2 weeks. (not ideal because of the extended time required, as well as sediment in can which is less than ideal for drinking straight from the can.) requires no extra equipment than I have currently. Trying to get away from this as a main source of carbonation. 2. Invest in a larger keg setup(right now I only have small kegs with mini co2 cartriges) Get 5 Gal. Kegs, a c02 tank and a beer gun for counter pressure filling, force carb in keg then beer gun to cans. 3. Get involved in pressure fermenting and spunding to carbonate. Get a fermzilla all-rounder, attempt to carbonate during fermentation with spunding valve, then transfer carbonated beer to cans (I'm assuming I will also need a beer gun or counter pressure filler for this method? Will I also need a Co2 tank anyways? Kegs?) What are your thoughts? Which of the 2 latter options is more economical or maybe easier? Initially I was thinking that getting into spunding may be easier and cheaper, but now it's seeming like the complete opposite. Maybe best to get a 5 Gallon keg and use it exclusively for force carbonating then immediately transferring? Sort of treating it like a bottling bucket? I really don't plan on using 5 gallon kegs to store and serve as I don't have the cold space long-term, but I could store one or two for a few days no problem.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Liam, I am sorry but I must have missed this! I would say that out of those options number 3 is probably going to give you the best result for the money spent. You could then seek to move to option 3 later if you desire it.

[@davidsales5855]

Well presented and easy straight to the point issues resolved. All my 'nightmares' about what to do with the Fermzilla answered. My preferred styles are Lagers, Hoppy beers and not too strong ales so I am ready to hit the brew now!!! Thanks for sharing knowledge David!!! From Scotland with love!!!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Awesome to hear David :) These are easy when you know how :)

[@FrankGenoBruno]

Great video- if I was going to make a IPA with Voss kveik, could you recommend a pressure fermentation process or with Voss kveik would you avoid pressure fermentation?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes for sure. The pressure will hide the yeasts esters and will allow the hops to come through more. I suggest pressure of 10-12 PSI. Temps wise anywhere from 20 to 35C will work great 🍻🍻🍻

[@FrankGenoBruno]

Thanks for the comment. Should I start the fermentation under pressure?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

@FrankandGeno sorry for the late reply, I am travelling for a business trip. With pressure you have a choice. I prefer to pre pressurise to set my spunding valve to ensure that it is at the right pressure. It will require a co2 bottle.

[@00Blah0Blah00]

Hi David. I have a few questions. Sorry if they sounds silly, but I've been sitting on my Fermzilla for about a year being too scared to try it in case I cock up a batch. I have finally decided to give it a go with a tried and tested APA recipe a managed to write using your excellent tips. So my questions are these: 1. Do I just add the blow tie and set a pressure on the gauge as is? No need to have a blow off tube attached to the end going into sanitiser or water? I assume the diaphragm acts as an airlock. 2. For doing this beer I want some esters from the yeast. Do I just keep the blowtie set open with now pressure for the first part of fermentation and then set at 5 - 10 PSI for the remainder? And if I leave it open do I need some sort of blow off barrier with a tube into sanitiser? Hope these make sense. Thanks as always. J

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sure, no problem. 1. Yes. With pressure there is no blow off 2. Yes, no pressure for the first 3-4 days then start closing to build up to 10-12 PSI. No need for anything else.

[@00Blah0Blah00]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. I decided to make a gas disconnect airlock and added one to the blow tie as well. I like watching it bubble. I have another question. How long can you keep harvested yeast in the fridge for?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great. I would use regular havested yeast with a week.

[@RH-ch1xt]

Thanks David for the interesting video. Have a quick question, I'm thinking of drinking (pale ale} straight from the pressure fermentor (corny keg)with a floating dip tube and skip the transfer. How long would you leave it fermenting at 18c, before conditioning, what would be your best procedure from here? Do I just leave it for 3 weeks at 18c,or do I change the temperature at any point? Many thanks Rex

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi and thank you 😎 Really its a question of the yeast you use and the type of recipe but any where up to 3 weeks but usually 7-10 days. Temperature will also be subject to yeast type. I include this information with my own recipes, so worth a look too 🍻🍻

[@travis9611]

I have just recently purchased a Fermzilla All Rounder. Going to be doing my first lager under pressure. I unfortunately don't have a CO2 tank so I can't pre-pressurize the vessel. I have pitched SafLager W‑34/70 into the wort at 23deg C (a bit high for my liking) and I have put some ice packs around the fermenter in the closed cupboard. I'm just hoping I won't get any off flavors produced as it leads up to pressure. Aiming for 10psi. 🤞🏻

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hey Travis, I would highly recommend getting one with a regulator. This adds cost, I know but is well worth it. You can then test that the Fermzilla holds pressure ahead and you can also accurately preset your spunding valve.

[@travis9611]

Thanks for the advice Sir, I will make a note of this👍🏻 I also need to invest in a keg, I'm tired of bottling as well 😅

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

@travis9611 🍻🍻🍻

[@tomg6284]

Thank you for your work. This info is all new to me and opens up a new way to brew, awesome.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Tom, it sure is a great way to go :)

[@aaardk]

Thanks a lot for the insight. I had to read all the comments to find what my question was. I have a closed ss conical fermenter which I believe was designed for low pressure (got a deal). Pressure build up is a constant worry (use manual release) and since it does not have an opening for a spunding valve it seems that drilling an extra hole in the lid is required (beside the hop hole). I don't use kegs, for various reasons, and so would a direct connection to the fermenter be the best solution. Or status quo?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Certainly be careful here.

[@alfiefranklin7831]

Excellent video David thank you. When brewing a hoppy IPA, would you just connect a blow off tube, as normal, then remove and attach your Spunding valve later in the process, when would you do this and for how long would you leave it connected, would the beer be carbonated to enable canning at the end? I’d appreciate any advice

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Alfie. It depends really. If you are using a neutral yeast then its fine to pressure ferment from the start. You will find though that to carbonate you will need to reduce temperature lower than normal fermentation temps to keep a sensible (10-12 PSI) level of pressure.

[@alfiefranklin7831]

Thank you very much for the answers, that’s very helpful, cheers David

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear 🍻🍻🍻

[@kristjangeirsson9889]

Dear David As the homerewer novice i am, I recently participated in a beer brewing course in a home brewing shop close to My home (My local Malt pusher, if you will). Our host, had great knowledge about brewing, as a former employee of a microbrewery in Copenhagen. At some point I asked about pressurized fermentation, and I was sorry to learn the he wouldent recommend it, as the method imposed a risk of getting -"flat" beer, in his opinion. His opinion was especially demotivating, as My first investment in beer brewing was a fermenzilla with pressureregulation and a Itap.... Now I'm putting My Faith in you to reassure me, that it is possible to maintain an acceptable level of fermentation, when bottling carbonated beer, and perhaps to provide me with some tips and tricks to do so successfully. Im looking forward to your answer, (and to more of your enjoyable informative videos of course) Best regards Kristjan Geirsson

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, I am somewhat confused by this claim of flat beer. Fermenting under pressure provides a head start to carbonation. It is also a method that is incredibly popular in breweries and for homebrewers.

[@kristjangeirsson9889]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew apparently the bottling proces should loose some of the carbonation obtained in the fermenter?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

If you pressure ferment then you can serve from the same vessel. Or fully carbonate before transferring into bottles.

[@LouB3rt]

So brew beer as usual. Put in corny key with a little extra space for krausen. Aerate. Pitch lager yeast. Seal up. Set spunding valve to 10-12 psi. Let sit a couple days at ambient temp. Draw beer off to test for completed fermentation. Cold crash. Transfer to second keg. Place under serving psi. Does this sound about right?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, perfect 🍻

[@LouB3rt]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew is there any reason to lager? Or does pressure fermentation’s ability to reduce esters- Pseudo lager for you? Or it depends on taste of beer at this point. Thanks again for all of your help, over the years. Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Lagering still has a place but it is all about desired flavour, so totally your taste buds call.

[@swchampi]

Hello David, thanks for another great video. I am interested in fermenting under pressure and have just started to ferment in my soda kegs. That spunding valve that you showed in the video would be perfect. Would you have a video or know of one that shows how to build something like that? Thanks for all the great information you contribute to the homebrew society!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great :) That one is sold as is just without the keg connection. Ive just picked up another type to test also.

[@kevinrich5312]

swchampi you can go to homebrewfinds.com and search spunding valve

[@oz93666]

I ferment under pressure to produce fizzy drinks . I feed the CO2 into a pepsy bottle containig still orange juice , shake pepsy bottle to help disolve CO2 (under pressure) after 20secs it's ready . At the moment I throw away the produced alcohol solution ! I use bakers yeast and white sugar . pressure has been upto 30psi , but works well at down to 5psi. A bit tricky getting pressure proof joint onto pepsy bottle top.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Interesting. Thanks for sharing.

[@toytownmouse]

Hi David. Just wondering how I know when fermentation is finished? I’m new to brewing and have an ipa split between two corny kegs with spunding valves set to 10psi. I’m told that fermenting under pressure is quicker but I’ve no idea what to expect. Do I just take gravity readings and stop when activity appears to have stopped? Love your theme tune by the way 😂

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you 🍻🍻🍻 For a full answer I would suggest watching this video:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGKzhGZubZyKkNksi=5na9osSakdu1X76b You will probably find this series of videos very useful as they explain everything core in brewing.

[@toytownmouse]

Thanks David. It seems that there are a number of variables such as fermentation temp, pressure setting and in particular yeast strain and health, oh and wort strength. I see that the only way to be sure is to take readings across three days and check for consistency. What I’m after is a ball park for my s05 ale yeast (dry and in date), 21c and at 12psi with an og of 1.068? Would it be 4-5 days or would I still expect to wait two weeks? I’m guessing that the answer isn’t that easy to predict. In this case I didn’t follow a recipe so I’ve no idea what the fg should be. I’ve watched episode 2 as well which was also helpful. I’ll be checking out the series. Cheers JC

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi JC, yes timing is hard to predict but certainly it will be reduced compared to without pressure. US05 is a pretty fast yeast usually, so I would expect one week rather than two on average.

[@toytownmouse]

Thanks David. Your time is appreciated.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

My pleasure, anytime 🍻🍻🍻

[@Spartan-iu6th]

I have the spike flex plus. It has a pretty high price tag but it was money well spent

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I would love one! They are not sold outside the US sadly :(

[@Spartan-iu6th]

David Heath Homebrew I got mine in Canada, Maybe not to Europe ?

[@bendtrom7200]

Does pressure fermented lager beer need to be stored ice cold for a longer period of time to gain a better taste if I first clear the beer with gelatin at 0 degrees Celsius for a few days? Currently I am fermenting under 10PSI pressure in 18 liter Cornelius kegs two lager beers that are the same in all aspects apart from the yeast where I have used two lager yeasts, Fermentis Safale S-23 & White Labs WLP 800.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Lagering is a normal process to condition lagers. For some two weeks or even less is enough but it will vary.

[@jamesgoacher1606]

Hello. The final bit of my Pressure Fermentation experiment will arrive tomorrow (a half inch Drill) and I will be brewing tomorrow. I will Pressure-Ferment in a 25L Cask with modified cap (a Keg Gas connection added to the existing S30 connection) and a Kegland Kit. Elsewhere you mention that Ale should be started after a couple of days. This will favour me because the head space in the cask is considerably less than a fermenter and I would want the first vigous ferment to subside a little. I intend to use the S30 connection to give a squirt of pressure to about 10psi (sorry I need a conversion calculator to get Pascals). Does this seem a reasonable approach? The yeast will be either US-05 or S04 depending upon what my hand falls onto in the fridge :-), I have used either in the past. Oh! the brew is a Bitter, Old Thumper (David Wheeler recipe) which I have brewed often in the past and have gotten out of the habit of monitoring, to my embarrasment in admission. I can sample SG through the Cask Tap with a Refractometer so I will not lose valuable nectar :-). Naturally I have a great deal of respect for your opinion in this and will report results although I think these will be difficult to evaluate except rate of SG change for instance. This is no way commits you btw :-). Later I will experiment with a Kvick yeast, I have some ideas in mind. Hopefully you monitor this. James

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi James. Yes this sounds good as long as the kegland kit is the spunding valve :)

[@henrikthrane8971]

Thank you David. Always Nice videos😊 If I understand you right. You recommend all ale fermentation without pressure before we are close to the FG in order to maximize esters production? So here we have to set the spunding valve almost open ? So only lagers needs to be pressured at the beginning at the fermentation

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Henrik. Almost :) Hoppy beers also benefit very nicely from pressure fermentation.

[@playbackvideoimage]

Informative video, thank you. What lager yeast do you use most when using this method?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you. I really like 34/70 personally :)

[@januscastanedo]

Thanks for this video David. If you don´t mind my question: What was the point of fermenting with kveik under pressure? I mean, this yeast doesn´t need cool temps and it does not produce much esters, so other than the carbonation and avoiding contamination, was the flavor of the beer changed? If yes in what way. Thanks

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Janus. I like to experiment. I have found that it saves 50% fermentation time and is cleaner straight away with Voss Gjernes.

[@januscastanedo]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Remarkable! Thanks a lot for your kind reply.

[@smntsn]

Hi :) First of all Ilove your videos. Learned a lot! Little question: Can I use pepsi keg for pressure ferm.? It is 18 liters(I think?) How much should I fill it? 15liters? (maybe?) I already have spunding valve but don't have suitable fermenter. Thank you :) From Turkey with love!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi :) Sure you can :) I suspect it is 19L. I would go a couple of litres lower. This will work nicely.

[@larsrittblad8333]

Hello David. I wonder if I should ferment a German pilsner under pressure, what temperature would you say I should ferment at? I'm fermenting in a segment that you showed in the video.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Lars, ambient temperature or beyond is possible:)

[@xatazch]

Great video as always, :) how do you know what Temp you need to have When fermenting an Breznak or a Boston Lager ?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you. All yeast will have temperature tolerance and lager yeast tends to have this in the lower range. Whilst under pressure temps between 25-30C are often acceptable.

[@xatazch]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok so that high temp under pressure when the temp is around 10c. Intressting. 😄 Thx for the help.

[@xatazch]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew how much shorter Will fermentation take?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

That can vary but usually much shorter. 3 days with some yeast, one day with kveik for example.

[@marcarch3872]

Thanks David! Another super useful video. I will try to use a comercial beer keg as a poor man presure fermentation equipment. Nice an cheap idea.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, thanks Marc, great to hear. Yes, always good when you try new things out with a minimal of extra cost :)

[@willschmit436]

I cut 1 1/2 inch off the dip tube. This allows it to stay above the trub, and helps with clarity when counterpressure transferring to a serving keg...

[@PartyTimeBrewing]

Great info, picking up a Spike conical soon and can't wait to try this out! Cheers!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers 🍻🍻🍻

[@jimnolan3004]

What do you say about using a King Keg Pressure barrel as a pressure fermenter, or am I completely barking! I realise it is not conical but it does have a dimpled bottom! If it is worth a try how would you modify the cap with a spunging valve etc?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Very limited sadly. You would be better off with a Fermzilla all rounder in the end.

[@dagthomas1001]

Thanks David . Very useful video. I ferment under pressure (10 psi) and it works wery well (Fermzilla) Question : can I lower the temperature when I use kveik (Voss) and ferment under pressure ? (Neipa).

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

This will vary depending on the kveik used. Some are happy at 20 or lower. Many are best at at least 30, with or without pressure.

[@peterf7496]

David. I have been fermenting under 10psi for last 4 days using the fermzilla 27L and bowtie spunding valve from keg land. I have noticed that the last two days it has always been ‘loosing’ pressure per spunding valve gauge. Is it just absorbing into liquid or is the kveik done doing its thing? Just can’t figure out where the pressure would go? Thank you for any help and all your awesome videos.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Peter, chances are its done :) I find its going to be 1-2 days with kveik under pressure. Glad you are enjoying the content :) much planned in the coming weeks :)

[@peterf7496]

David Heath Homebrew thank you I’ll move onto dry hopping then. It’s my first time with kveik and wow! Thank you for the help.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

It sure is fast, especially underpressure but you should verify with a gravity reading of course :)

[@theloniuser]

David, Thanks so much for all you do. I learn so much and you've made me a better brewer for sure. I have a couple of quick questions: I bought a aeration/whirlpooling paddle to attach to my drill and I think it's definitely helped with getting better attenuation. Do you run the paddle for the whole whirlpool time (ie 15 mins) for that hop addition or do you give it a rest now and then? When aerating, how long is it necessary to run the paddle to get good aeration? Also, I got a tremendous unpleasant bitterness to my last pressure fermented lager even though I didn't add hops until 45 mins into the boil - I wonder if I aerated too long? I used only pilsener malt and Sabro hops. Thank again!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear James 🍻 For a drill mounted paddle a few minutes will be enough really. Has this over bitterness lasted long? It can occur in early beers and disperse.

[@theloniuser]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew It may be getting a little better. I guess I'll keep drinking it and see 😊

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

How young is it?

[@theloniuser]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I did a closed transfer to keg and put it in my kegerator 2 weeks ago. I may have transferred a bit of trub into the new keg which might have contributed to the bitterness - I’m still getting used to my gen 3 65l brewzilla. It is definitely getting better. I drank some happily last night. 😊

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Its unlikely that it would contribute to bitterness in all honesty. It might effect clarity abit but I would suggest going this route:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5nIk2V-rp2CmMk

[@peterkap5521]

I use a airlock for the 1st 3 days then add CO2 to my fermzilla, If no airlock I should just keep the pressure at 10 with my spunding valve?? I wasn't sure if that would work with the yeast. Love your video's and keep them coming. Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

You can open your spunding valve full, then it becomes like an airlock if you extend some hosing into some starsan in a glass :)

[@peterkap5521]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew so I shouldn't keep the spunding valve part closed to keep it around 8-10 psi for the 1st 4 days?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

You certainly can, it depends on the yeast you are using and if you want to stop the esters. Much of a yeasts ester flavours are put in place in the opening days of fermentation.

[@lonewolf9390]

I currently have two 2.5 gallon ball lock kegs that I'm thinking of using for pressure fermentation. I'm curious as to what would be the largest batch size I could safely ferment in a 2.5 gallon keg under pressure without having krausen causing an issue.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

As long as you add pressure from the start then you can use the full volume. The pressure will contain it. I would go 1 bar max.

[@lonewolf9390]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the info! 👍

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

@lonewolf9390 🍻🍻🍻

[@dalekirkwood6496]

Interesting video David 👍 I came across the video when looking for info on counter pressure bottling from a brite tank. Just wondering if you any videos relating to that (wondering if it is better to "black" fill or not as I seem to be losing some carbonation)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Dale. Sadly not, I only recently reviewed the itap counter pressure bottle filler though:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoCrXomrh52mjLM

[@dalekirkwood6496]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew great thanks I'll give it a watch

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

:)

[@Melman888]

Great vid, any experience with Kveik under pressure?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Mel. Yes, the example shown was Voss Gjernes kveik. Works well :)

[@1983markL]

Hi David, thanks for this great vide - As always, your stuff is very helpful. I just brought myself a pressure fermenter yesterday (KEGLAND FERMZILLA) and was wondering about what I can and cant do in terms of a pressure ferment, is there a "list" of yeasts that dont work well? I want to do a brew and only have US04 in my fridge..... Also, is there a general rule of thumb for pressure fermenting in terms of the number of days it should ferment for? I live in KZN, South Africa so it gets pretty warm here in summer...my "brewery" sits at about 21 - 24 degress room temp depending on the day.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Mark, great to hear that you find my content helpful :) Ive not found any yeast that will not work with 10-12 PSI of pressure. You will find that pressure speeds the process along but like normal fermentation there are different factors that change the process time. The use of a hydrometer is still the way to establish a finished fermentation. The Fermzilla will allow you to see what is happening too, which can also be a useful guide.

[@1983markL]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew awesome!! Thanks for your advice David!!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers Mark 🍻🍻🍻

[@michaelmay9418]

Very interesting and information as usual. I've been doing Belgian strong dark she's under pressure and still getting decent yeast esther characters. The point about shelf life is well taken and in my experience true. However, the truly great benefit of fermentation under pressure is that you can add a tap to the fermenter and drink your carbonated beer directly! Many a beer never made it to the keg!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks Michael. Yes, depending on the yeast, pressure level and when you introduce pressure all sorts of different results can be obtained. I agree that the unitank option is the main benefit. Nice and easy and plenty of benefits.

[@ME-qp9ds]

I have made some very simple changes to my grainfather conical and have brewed 2 batches under pressure, but limiting it to 5psi. So far so good.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

All I am going to say is "be careful", Grainfather advise against doing this.

[@ME-qp9ds]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have found that at 6psi it escapes around the lid seal - so reasonably comfortable with that and can still pressure ferment - user acknowledges all risks etc

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, this is the weakest point. Though at 5 PSI it is going to be rather limited sadly.

[@dusanstevanovic5494]

Do you find that 5 PSI is enough for pressure fermentation?

[@ME-qp9ds]

@@dusanstevanovic5494 it’s seemed to go fine, I actually got the pressure a bit higher, but due to issues with not being able to easily cold crash the Fermenter (no glycol chiller) I have now gone for a couple of king keg chubby FV.

[@fhannestad]

I wonder Dave, when making a lager/pilsner under pressure, do you still use the same amount of yeast as when fermenting it with an airlock/cold? Or can you cut down on the yeast since its fermenting warmer?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Fredrik, I suggest using the same pitching rate.

[@mrtydg]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew so, you recommend still doing a Yeast starter?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Only if yeast the yeast age is of concern

[@robbiasetti4678]

How long do you think you could serve from the fermenting vessel before the yeast cake starts throwing off flavor due to autolysis?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

This seems to be very much subject to taste. Personally ive not had issues but these will last 4-6 weeks before drunk . I have thirsty friends!

[@Gingerbread75]

Hi David, thanks for another great video! Just one doubt, for carbonation 2.3 vol @ 20°C is a pressure of 24.5 PSI to be applied, that is higher than recommended max 15 PSI (l 15 PSI the beer would be under-carbonated, right?) Any advice how to solve this? to apply higher pressure just at the end of fermentation? Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi :) Yes, you will need to finish off carbonation at lower temps but naturally you have a head start.

[@dt4676]

Hello. I'm an intermediate novice at brewing and I'm trying to see if I can build my own pressure fermenter. So I don't keg, I only bottle. If I wanted to pressure ferment, could I do so then after the few days it takes to ferment, release the pressure for a few days to make the beer go flat again to have a better hold on not overcarbonating in bottle?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, by releasing pressure over time you can gradually remove pressure. Though the easy way is to bottle with pressure via a counter pressure bottling product.

[@geohambass]

David, regarding your comment about pressurising a lager straight away - do you mean you should bring it up to pressure with CO2 at the start of fermentation, or should you just add a spunding valve and let it build up to pressure naturally?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi George, In actual fact both methods will work. Some like to add pressure manually and others like to let it build naturally which requires less equipment. Personally, I manually add pressure so that I can set my spending valve ahead of adding any wort. I also like to check the PRV ahead of time. I recently made a guide to safety that covers this.

[@geohambass]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you. My thought process was that adding external pressure may inhibit yeast growth in the early stages. Just received my Fermzilla All Rounder yesterday, will put it to the test soon.

[@timwood8733]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I had the same question as George below ie wouldnt adding pressure at day one of fermentation restrict fermentation as it removes oxygen that is needed initially for fermentation?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Its the oxygen in the wort that counts, not what is in the headspace 🍻

[@chriscamarillo8914]

Thanks for the video David. You mentioned that pressure fermentation does not work well with some yeast strains. Do you have a list of which strains I should take care with?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Chris :) I would love a list but ive not found one. The best way is to google a type of yeast for pressure results and see what comes back.

[@ruanmuller3577]

Thank you for the very informative video. David you usually say one should leave the beer for a couple of days (usually 5) after fermentation for the yeast "to clean up after itself". Will this step also be necessary when fermenting under pressure?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Ruan, yes giving the yeast 2-3 days after fermentation is good practise under pressure too.

[@ruanmuller3577]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you Sir!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻

[@danhonan6718]

Thanks David, very useful video.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Dan, much appreciated :)

[@HOMEBREW4LIFE]

another great one DH!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you :)

[@robertostensson2713]

So David what about fermenting an American Pale Ale with s-04 under pressure ? Would you recommend it or just the dryhopping?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Skip the first 4 days otherwise you will not get the esters.

[@robertostensson2713]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you 🍺

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻

[@robertostensson2713]

By the way, what Pressure level do you recommend when dryhopping? It's a APA.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

10-12 PSI as always 🍻🍻🍻

[@jamescottingham5210]

Thank you for this David. I am inspired to try pressure fermenting in a corny keg. From what I find on the internet, in addition to the spundling valve, I also need to build a floating dip tube as well. I understand pressure fermenting reduces head space, but how much would I need in a corny keg? Should I aim for 17 liters in the keg, or more or less?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Glad you enjoyed it. A floating dip tube is a good addition , though cutting with dip tube down a little would help also. It really depends on the brew and yeast as to the need. You could also transfer off the trub into another keg or any other medium of your choice.

[@chrisnewman861]

I transfer 20L of wort into my 23L corny kegmenters which leaves enough headspace. I've tried the KegLand floating dip tubes but discovered a cask widge is far better.

[@Kberrysal]

Do you ever make wine kits if you do can you post a video of you doing one

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I mostly make wine with fruit. I have been considering a video about that.

[@JohnnyReverse]

Im about to try this for the first time with my Fermzilla. I think I'm all ready to go but I feel like I don't quite have a grasp on transferring the beer once fermentation is complete. I assume the beer will be carbonated at least partially when it's finished, I assume there will be bubbles so how do you go about moving it to a keg? Does the transfer pressure have to be equal to of higher than what is in the vessel? And how do you gauge the carbonation level after?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

An enclosed transfer at equal pressure is ideal. You can use a spunding valve on the target keg to control the flow. In terms of carbonation you will be able to increase or reduce that as you go.

[@robertostensson2713]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew any special level on the spundingvalve?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Robert, start off closed then gently open until you get a flow. This will ensure that you are not splashing. After a few minutes you can gradually increase the flow if you like.

[@robertostensson2713]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you David 👍

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻

[@44pauley]

Hi David. Long time listener, first time caller... I was thinking about using a spunding valve with my grainfather (flat bottom, not conical) fermenter. Not for the benefits of fermenting under pressure, but rather as a method of avoiding oxygen contamination when cold crashing. My thinking is that I could store co2 in the fermenter under pressure so that it could subsequently counteract the cold crash vacuum. You said that the GF conical can only hold 1.5 PSI; would that be sufficient to fulfil my concept, or is this a (nice) idea that won't work? Many thanks!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear and thanks for your message :) I am not sure if the fermenter you mention is going to be suitable. I do not think it has a pressure rating. A cheap solution would be an S airlock that will offer some protection or a Plaato Valve as shown in this video for a still cheap really but better solution:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJivfa1pYsZrhqs

[@44pauley]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. I really appreciate your response. I like the look of the plato valve, and think I'll try to connect it to a co2 capture bag so it draw that co2 back in at cold crash / bottling time. thanks again. '

[@edsplosion1]

Thank you for your video, very helpful. If fermenting under pressure reduces ester production, does that mean it's not suitable for styles where esters are desired like some Belgian beers or hefeweizens?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes exactly. Fermentation under pressure is really for hoppy beers or lagers.

[@soobz]

I'll add a variable to David's answer, as a very long term experimenter with hefeweizens the best results are ferment at low pressure for the first 80-90% and finish in a keg with natural carbonation (you will need to bleed the keg occasionally or use a spunding valve) which will also trap the esters/phenols, particularly 4-vinyl guaiacol

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Interesting. How do you find this improves the style?

[@soobz]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew The esters and phenols that give hefeweizens their unique flavours/aromas are quite volatile and the CO2 outgassing during ferment can 'scrub' them - historically the Germans/Austrians used shallow fermentation tanks. I found that trapping some of them in the keg near the end of the fermentation gave me a beer closer to the fresh from tap German/Austrian hefeweizens.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Awesome, thanks for sharing, much appreciated 🍻

[@JJ-vw4yg]

Hi David, another great video! I have heard that most yeast's does not like pressure and dies or takes strain under pressure. Can you provide a list or link to yeast strains that can be used e.g. White Lab's WLP925 for example? Many thanks and keep it up.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you :) I think it would be fair to say that most yeast is fine with pressure fermentation. I am unaware of any list on the regular internet but I have a thread within this channels Facebook group where users have been adding their pressure fermentation results to build up information.

[@JJ-vw4yg]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. Will have to ask my wife to look on your Facebook group as I don't have Facebook! Lol

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No problem. I only use Facebook for the groups. That's where it is useful :)

[@JJ-vw4yg]

David Heath Homebrew, maybe i will join FB just for your homebrew group! 😁

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Let me know:) New accounts can look suspicious but it I know you are joining and have the account name then I can tell the other moderators to approve you :)

[@milesjuett8129]

David, I'm new to pressure fermentation and I'm wondering if by now you have found or put together a list or chart of yeasts and their pressure tolerances? TIA!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, there is an excel document on the channels Facebook group.

[@milesjuett8129]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Found it! Thanks for the add to the group and for sharing your research/resources! Cheers!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Miles 🍻🍻🍻

[@Thedarkdog95]

Hi David! My go to store Hembrygg in Sweden where Josh is recomended you to me! Great video! However. This may be a pretty stupid question but as i am just the definition of a beginner i'll ask anyway. By death, do you mean death to human or to the yeast? Like a keg explosion perhaps? Also, can you mess up a beer that bad where it will result in beeing toxic or playn deadly?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you :) No problem at all. When I speak of death that is just killing your yeast thankfully :) No, the worst that can happen is a bad taste but nothing will make you even ill.

[@Thedarkdog95]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks alot man! Really appreciate that you take the time to answer me. And the other ones as i can see! Very unusual to finally find a guy that really takes time to answer questions! Big cudos to that man! Great video and thanks again! =D And while i have you here! A little video tip! If you have the time atleast i and i think alot other people would really appreciate if you could make a beer with you know. The beginners version. With a stove, pot and fermentation buckets! Since you explain alot better than other KZbinrs and are easy to understand. You know, so we beginners can see it from a proffesional view! Just wanted to put it out there! Thanks ALOT again! You definatley just got another sub and i'm 1/4 (i think) through your whole video library hehe. Cheers!

[@Nagellan]

Hello. Is there any proper ratio between temperature and pressure when fermenting under pressure? Let’s say I want to get a clean profile beer and yeast temperature range is 18-21 C and I want to start fermenting with 21 C but I don’t really know what pressure would be enough to get clean bear without esters? 5 psi would be enough or maybe go to 15 psi ? Does any pressure above 0 psi inhibit esters during the fermentation or maybe there is some span in which I can get some esters ?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Good question! Actually, no. Much of this is experimental. There is an excel sheet shared on my Facebook group with lots if shared data covering peoples experiences with different strains of yeast with temp and pressure levels.

[@Nagellan]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank your. I don’t have Facebook account but I in this case... 👍🏻

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I only use Facebook for such things myself :)

[@barrysbuzz]

Hi David... I have the Grainfather Conical Fermenter and want to pressure ferment. I probably have to sell it, but would like a recommendation please for a more versatile unit around the same size. Thoughts please?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

That would depend one where you live and how much you are prepared to spend??

[@barrysbuzz]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I live in Perth Western Australia and want to spend up to $1500 AUD.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hmm not a market I know well. Kegland have a lot of budget solutions but further than that I am not so sure.

[@Dogsdoodas]

Hi David, I'm going to have a go at pressure fermenting a Lager in large 23ltr steel Keg with a spunding valve. Because the Lager will be fermented at say 18c rising to 20c, can I use less lager yeast say 1 packet instead of 2 due the warm growth factor? How much space do I need say would be ok 20ltrs in a 23ltr keg? Regards M

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Depends on the lager yeast, they will not all need two packs but if they are suggest then best to run with that.

[@jacktyrrell2050]

Hi there about brewing an oatmeal stout using s05 ale yeast can I use a pressurised conical fermenter and if so how to aerate it if there is a need to Ps how affective are they are they worth the money thanks

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Jack, Fermentis do not recommend aeration with their yeast but you can certainly use pressure. This is going to be very effective at 10-12 PSI. You can also use a higher than usual temperature.

[@pantseilmari8151]

What would be a reasonable rule of thumb for deciding a correct level of pressure for ales, wheat beers, stouts and belgian style beers? I've used 1,5-2 bars for lagers, pilsners and strongly hopped APA's but I've never made ales or stouts. Would 5 psi be a reasonable pressure that would still allow for ester production?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Really the safe rule of thumb is between 10-12 PSI. I would suggest zero pressure for ester production.

[@pantseilmari8151]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew well, I could have just rewatched your video as you already clearly told us that if you want to maximize ester production start up with 0 psi at the beginning of fermentation and ramp it up afterwards... I've seen a lot of people using high pressure with ale yeasts but I'll try your suggestion first with 0 psi and ramp it up to 10 psi when there are approx. 30% left of the fermentation. Would be really cool to see a homebrew video of side by side comparison of an ale made with high pressure fermentation vs 0 psi fermentation from the same batch. Superb info once again David. Cheers from Finland!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great :) Yes it is all there but its a lot of information I know :)

[@pantseilmari8151]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew btw what condition temperature do you suggest for ales, stouts and porters? For lagers I believe you said something like 1-5 celcius.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

14C is optimal but just get as close as you can. Just not too much hotter or colder.

[@MalikKayaalp]

Hello. At what temperature can I ferment a US-05 Ale yeast under 12 psi pressure? I'm making IPA beer. 25 LT. I couldn't find any clear information on exactly how many degrees I should do.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, Personally ive gone up to 35C under pressure with 05 with great results.

[@MalikKayaalp]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Really ? I kept it between 23 degrees and 13 15 psi and frankly I was a little worried. 35C really worked like kveik yeast :D I can ferment my beer in summer without any worries. Thnx...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No worries there 🍻🍻🍻

[@suwirwong]

How do you measure gravity in preasure fermenting vesel? How can you tell the fermentation is finish when preasure fermenting? What temperature to use ?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, I use floating hydrometer's like Tilt and Float. Temperature and pressure will vary according to the yeast. If you join the channels Facebook group then there is a shared excel sheet with lots of data of yeast types and peoples experiences.

[@chrisphilpot2324]

Hi David, can you please clarify, when fermenting under pressure, can you disregard temperature or do you still control the temperature, but can go higher than you normally would?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Chris, In general temp control is still useful but fermenting under pressure allows for higher temperatures to be reached without issues. For some this can mean fermenting at normal room temperatures with lager yeast for example, or fermenting an ale at hotter summer temperatures.

[@claytoncoxen5145]

Hi Dave, I had a similar question as Chris here. I haven’t tried pressure fermentation yet but was thinking of giving it a go. currently I ferment using a fridge to control temperature so I was hoping that pressure fermenting would free this fridge up. So my question is, if you had the choice to pressure ferment without being able to control the temp vs normal fermenting however with temp control, what option would you go for?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hey Clayton. Pressure is best suited to styles where no yeast flavour is needed. This covers hoppy and lager styles. If this suits you best?

[@claytoncoxen5145]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David, I would say 80% of my brews are hoppy and lager styles with the rest being malt and yeast forward brews. Maybe I should give pressure fermenting a go then. Just to make sure I am understanding correctly, for hoppy and lager styles, you would rather use a pressure fermenter without temp control? Also, are they any limits one should be aware of when it comes to max temps and temp fluctuations? eg. If ambient temps change a lot between day and night

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sounds ideal then. When you brew something where your yeasts esters are needed just have no pressure for the first 4 days then add pressure and all will be good.

[@islandbrewmallorca-thehome3151]

Thanks David, again very interesting video! Just brewed on 1st September my Oktoberfestbier and fermented it under pressure in a NC keg with max of 2 bar at 24°C with the W34/70. Was a very interesting experiment - came out very clean and after 2 1/2 days first fermentation was done. After cold crash at 2°C, botting and storing cold at 2°C it's so clear and very clean. Really like that way how it goes. David, thanks for all the advice in your videos, learned allot from it! Cheers from Mallorca, Robert.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Robert. Yes it sure is a game changer :)

[@beerandbbqhobbyist6464]

Does pressure fermentation mean you hook up a co2 bottle to the fermenter and leave it on during the whole fermentation? Or do you just charge the fermentor with 10-12 co2 and remove the co2 bottle?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

You can precharge the pressure, though many will just allow it to build naturally via the yeast. Anything excess is blown off by the spunding valve.

[@JamesSmith-yk3nh]

Hi David. I'm a novice brewer and about to do my second brew (a galaxy pale ale) I'll be fermenting in a fermzilla in a temp controlled fridge for two weeks. What day would you recommend adding a spunding valve? (Was going to set it at 10psi and see how it goes) Cheers legend

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers James. I would suggest adding it straight away. You can adjust it via pressure test before beer transfer 🍻🍻🍻

[@JamesSmith-yk3nh]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew fab. Thanks mate. I did exactly that when I did your verdant IPA and it came out mint..cheers !

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear James 🍻🍻🍻

[@craigrushforth2967]

just bought my Fermzilla (UK) and am looking to make my first brew 'under pressure'. I am thinking of an IPA similar to the hop head recipe and have a couple of queries. I am planning on using a Voss Kveik yiest @ approx 25C - as I expect it will ferment clean at that temp, especially under 10psi, but also wondered if the pressure will have any effect on dry hopping, ie accelerate or retard the release of volatiles. Grateful for your thoughts on both - cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

That will work very well. Dry hopping works very well under pressure also :)

[@craigrushforth2967]

David Heath Homebrew - cheers, fermenting away now, looking forward to it

[@persvedenbring4080]

I also fermenting in my new Fermzilla at approx 14 psi in 22C (first time so a real newbie). 4 days has passed and nothing funny visual is happening. Should I not be able to see the process? Before the Zilla my plan was to keep is this way for 10 days, then close the valve, slowly open one cap on the side of the little bucket (not lower the pressure), clean it, fill it with hops, put it back on, flush it with CO2, open the valve and then keep it for 3-4 days in my fridge at 3-4C and then use my new beergun to fill bottles. Is that a plan? Is my brew dead or is the yeast working but silently?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Per, you have no krausen?

[@persvedenbring4080]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew there was some foam the first days but now it is very small. I raised the pressure to 20 psi yesterday

[@barito7]

Wow thanks! Am i correct to assume that constant temperature is still very important? If I am doing a lager at normal atmospheric temp normally try to keep the temp at 12c. If I pressurise it sounds like this is not necessary (in fact could stall fermentation or affect attentuation). Does this mean I should set a higher stable temp?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

You will find that yeast under pressure is more forgiving in general. So yes you can use much higher temps with some more flexibility about temp control. Hope this helps :)

[@johneagle1855]

I do lagers at 25°C. Then after kegging hold at 2°C or less for 2 weeks. (Really hard to do that though)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

5C will work for lagering European stylesThe lower temps are more of an American style method.

[@larmckenna]

i want tpo finish a berliner weisse in the keg and spund it to naturally carbonate. At about what approx gravity would you start spunding?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, if you want esters then open it fully from start to day 4 then set to 10-12 PSI. If not then set spunding to this level from the start.

[@larmckenna]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew cheers dave! Inwas thinking much later like about. 006 above target fg. But I'll give your suggestion a go.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻

[@CO-hi1dx]

Great video, David! Many thanks 😁

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.

[@mshergold]

What's the maximum quantity of beer you'd recommend fermenting under pressure in a corny keg? And would this differ according to style (say an ale and a lager)?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I would give a 19L corny 2L of space as a minimum personally. I would also be sure to use a spunding valve.

[@thebird36]

If I pressure ferment in a keg, how does one go about taking gravity readings? I plan to build an ispindel at some point

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

An iSpindel should work, as long as the wifi signal strength allows it. Floating hydrometers are really you best option. I have a comparison guide coming for these soonish.

[@thebird36]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I will be on the lookout. I'm brewing a kolsch this weekend so I think I'm just gonna give it a few days to ferment and degas it and check if there's a krausen.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, hope it goes well for you.

[@MrThho]

Hi David and thanks for an interesting video! I am usually brewing double IPAs and use dry yeast. I just bought a Fermzilla 27 L with pressure kit. What pressure, fermentation temp. and time would you recommend to try out? My goal (beside oxygen free transfer and so on) is of course to reduce fermentation time, and carbonate during fermentation.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear, thank you. What type of dry yeast are you thinking to use?

[@MrThho]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi and thanks for replying quickly. I often use Safale S-04 or 05. However I have also used Magrove M44 and Lallemand Nottingham.

[@MrThho]

Any recomandations David?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sorry I must have missed your reply. All of those work well with pressure. 3-5 deg c higher than the usual maximum is a good safe point. Always good to google for information on what others have tried. Personally I mostly just use kveik these days though :)

[@MrThho]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! It seems that recomended temp. for Safale S-04 is 15-24 degrees. Do you think 15 PSI and 22 degrees is okey, or would you try even higher temp?

[@Talieer]

Does this mean you can also have a lower pitching rate of lager yeast or should you still have the same pitching rate as if you were fermenting cold?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The same pitching rate as normal :)

[@paulrobertson9439]

Another interesting video thank you. As you know I'm new to this and every time I think I'm getting a handle on it you bring out another video which give me something else to think about haha Cheers :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Paul :) Well, that is the thing with this in general. Various options with pros and sometimes cons.

[@isaiahjusice8072]

Thanks for the great vid! I have a couple questions for you if you don't mind . If you were to brew an neipa or a neiipa, using a basic setup (stainless steel brew kettle, bucket fermeter, auto siphon for bottling etc) what would you do to prevent oxidation in this beer? I am just looking to see if it ks possible tonavoid oxidation for an neipa without pressure fermentor. Especially since i plan on making a 2.5 gallon batch of it, and using a 5 gallon fermentation bucket. Thank you!!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you and no problem. I would simply avoid anything that could start oxidation. So this would be splashing or stirring essentially of the beer during and after fermentation.

[@isaiahjusice8072]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew awesome , so other than dry hop additions, leave the beer alone as much as possible, and the only major movement should be when bottling? Still either way oxygen exposure is inevitable, and that being the case would you say the beer would still have a decent life span in the fridge before major damage is done?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes. The key here is that unless you do something to introduce much more oxygen, your beers are still going to last some months before signs of oxidisation creep in within a keg. Ive got beer in bottles that has lasted well for past 1 year also, some strong styles for several.

[@zt7489]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Have you ever come across a device to help remove oxygen in the wand bottling process, David? At the moment I fill the bottles to the allowed head space, and then sit sterilized caps on them. I keep filling other bottles and listen for the cap to start popping on the bottle rim - suggesting gas is being pushed out and that inside pressure is becoming positive. I then attach the cap to the bottle.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No but as long as you do not splash then you should be fine.

[@andysouza3109]

Got a question David. I’m pressure fermenting but when I adjust the dial it still shoots way up Am I doing something wrong? The valve is almost closed but it still goes up past 50.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Andy, it sounds like the spunding valve has failed. Perhaps it can be fixed. Which type is it?

[@andysouza3109]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew It’s brand new David. This is the first time I’ve used it. It’s a Duotight blow tie diaphragm Spunding valve. I don’t know why it shoots up and doesn’t remain at a lower PSI despite tightening the valve. I wonder if I’m doing something wrong. This is my first attempt at pressure fermentation.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

@andysouza3109 For sure ask for a replacement.

[@boballen2350]

Hi, A long one this, sorry. I'm returning to home brewing after many years absence and after watching your excellent videos I wish to go along the lines of using a Robobrew-Brewzilla and a Fermzilla All Rounder for a pressure fermentation. However after re-reading my old CAMRA brew books by Graham Wheeler I found this statement below: "The lid can be fitted to the bin until the yeast head has begun to form, then removed. When the head has established itself the surface will contain some dark floccules and trub brought up with the yeast. These should be skimmed off, taking care to cause the minimum of disturbance to the rest of the head. Many home-brewing books recommend frequent yeast skimming. I do not go along with this. I do not believe in continually interfering with the ale." I can remember religiously skimming the top of the ale to prevent 'off flavours', but todays closed brew systems seem to totally ignore this requirement. Have things moved on to the extent that this process is no longer required or advisable? I probably need some new brew books geared at todays practices.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Everyone has their take on skimming. Its not very common these days. Ive not done it for a long time and have not missed it. Do some testing both ways and see what you think :)

[@boballen2350]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for this, at least I know I shan't be drastically wrong by not skimming, as you say time and tests will decide if I need to. Bob

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers Bob 🍻

[@chuckdontknowdoya6100]

Thanks for the great information.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you, glad you found it useful

[@lkzp]

Will it be fine if I ferment wort with some ale yeasts in 22C - 23C ? Will there be huge esters ?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many will be forgiving at those temps. Kveik would be perfectly fine :)

[@johneagle2100]

I have been pressure brewing for a while now and it's nice to have 50 liters drinkable in just on a week.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, it sure is :)

[@johneagle1855]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I think I might however do a brew at a lower pressure as I am doing mine at 30Psi or there abouts. See if I notice any difference in flavour.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

John Eagle Generally 10-12 PSI is enough to remove all yeast flavour :)

[@carlwyatt5036]

Hi , with pressure fermentation do you leave in same fermenter or rack off Thanks carl

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Carl, the same fermenter unless there is a need to rack over, like fruit for example.

[@carlwyatt5036]

So it stays in until it's ready to drink and drink it . It never comes off the crud till its cleared and drank . Carl

[@timwood8733]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have the same question as carl below ie if using float, leaving beer in original pressurized fermenter at 12 psi, how long does it taste ok for without racking ? ie doesnt yeast slung at bottom create taste issues ?

[@ecmik85]

Hi, David! I’m wondering if you have some experience from dry hopping pre carbonated beer with loose hop pellets? I’m thinking it would be nice to be able to use the fermentation pressure to carbonate hoppy beers before adding the hops.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

It is very unlikely that you will have a full carbonation level at this stage. This is due to the temperature of fermentation vs the acceptable level of pressure for the health of the yeast. Hope this helps :)

[@ecmik85]

David Heath Homebrew But isn’t the last points down to FG bringing the beer it’s final carbonation volume? Perhaps I won’t ferment under high pressure, but rather increase the pressure in the end of fermentation, and after the FG is reached - dry hop?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No, you will need to finish off carbonation usually after fermentation and at lower temps.

[@taybrews]

Does this work both ways with temperature control? I ferment in the garage and the temp is always lower than the preferred yeast temperatures.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No, sadly not :)

[@xuedalong]

If pressure fermenting enables fermentation at higher temperatures due to lower esters, is there not still a risk of fusel alcohols?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No. Pressure takes care of that :)

[@kennethlarsen3687]

I was thinking that the GF conical fermenter could ferment under a low pressure, and hold it low pressure because of the screw in the lid.... What do you think about that David ?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

It will only allow around 1.5 PSI which is not enough to make any real difference sadly.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

You are right! It is 1.5 PSI, my mistake. I just corrected it :)

[@janpcs]

Hallo David, you say that 10-12 PSI is a sweet spot. The pressure outside is approximately 14.7 PSI. Wouldn't that mean that you would be fermenting without pressure at all? Please excuse my ignorance.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Jan, the pressure is in addition to natural pressure.

[@janpcs]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew So when I want to be in the sweet spot I set the dial at 25-27 PSI?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No, dial in 10-12 PSI :) This goes on top of natural air pressure.

[@janpcs]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much. I have watched many of your video's already and I have learned a lot from them. They have become a reliable source of information. When I want to know something about home brewing your video's are the ones I check first.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Jan, I have been releasing videos at least once a week for some years now. This weekend saw 2 new videos :)

[@markthrower224]

Inspiring as always David I may have to source a good used keg and build a spunding valve to try this.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear Mark, thank you :)

[@tommollet3644]

I pressure fermented a vienna lager at 64 f under 13 psi pressure. I used 2 packets of Lallemand Diamond yeast. My question is that the beer has been fermenting for 10 days and the fv reading is 1.018 with an expected fv of 1.010. Any thoughts on what my next step should be?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sounds like it is stuck. I would give the fermenter a gentle rocking left to right, front to back to rouse the yeast back into play.