Ferrari 512 BBi Boxer Project Hits a Major Disaster - How Bad is it ?

[@Ratarossa]

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[@914porsche1]

Fill tank with water and filter will hopefully float to the top. Depends on plastic density.

[@joshb5416]

Take the fuel pump out should be more accessible to get the filter out then

[@luissilveira6127]

Keep up the good work gratz;)

[@tommyhijmensen6257]

CALL ED CHINA !!!!!

[@reginaldbowls7180]

Congrats on 150K mate! your content is absolutely inspiring.

[@richthegill]

Love the channel, love the car, hate the promotion of gambling for sponsorship

[@creamfalcon]

Guys gotta make a living but I hear you. He is putting out some great content.

[@Kevakazii]

Dont be that guy. The man is putting out free content for you to watch while you eat your museli. If you dont like the advert just skip through it.

[@ryanforrest168]

He buys old Ferraris, his whole channel is gambling

[@redzone5655]

Support the companies that support the channel. Without them you will not have the content you so much “love”

[@ryanj8283]

I mean, you don’t have to gamble do you, just enjoy the video

[@schatzman88]

I always respect a man that works on his cars in white shoes. That takes balls of steel

[@stoicspawn3936]

It shows that he's rich and money doesn't matter to him. It's takes balls of steel to do all of the work & research yourself.

[@ScottPC]

@@stoicspawn3936 literally haha. I have specific black shoes that I ruin for car stuff.

[@thomasfrank280]

Not to mention the tan trousers.

[@pollatso]

I was thinking the same.. No they will scuff

[@stevenparkes8208]

lol 😂 top draw ✍️

[@rls428]

Looks like a rebuild to me regardless. Tear it down. Document every nut and bolt. You might get away with just a hone on the cylinders. Do all bearing and seals considering the age and how long it’s sat. Inspect the entire fuel system considering what you found in the the tanks. Polishing the crank might be all that’s needed for that portion as well. I can’t get over how clean it is under the valve cover.

[@andrefecteau]

put it back in the barn where it came from...what a White Elephant

[@Karpo1986]

I was just about to say the same thing. Hone, rings, bearings, seals and cleaning the valves. That is not a major disaster by any means Propably quite inexpensive (nothing is cheap with a F) and relatively easy. +After that the engine doesn't need need to be opened ever again (unless something goes terribly wrong).

[@andrefecteau]

@@Karpo1986 umm, built a 427 for my 95 Mustang? Everything will go wrong, hope dude has alot of cash and patience

[@misscrabstick]

@@Karpo1986 Also tbh compared to some of the modern bloody hideous engines I have to work on this is actually a fairly simple engine.

[@Karpo1986]

@@andrefecteau Well I find working on low-tech engines relaxing tbh. 😄 Hard? No. Expensive? No. (Compared to the fact it is a 300000€ car once done correctly) Time consuming? Yes, very...

[@ConquerDriving]

Loving this series. I would replace as many seals and gaskets as possible for reliability and keep it as original as possible.

[@paulloubser2399]

Moenie n dom poes wees nie

[@johnshaft5613]

It might sound like a bit "much", but to clean out the fuel tanks and remove the filters: Completely flush the tanks with water to remove all traces of fuel. Using your bore scope, find a section where you can use a cut off wheel to cut out a perhaps 15cm by 15cm inspection panel on the side of the tank without damaging anything inside. That will give you access to remove the filters and also thoroughly clean the inside of the tank. Once the tank is clean, simply weld in a fresh section of aluminum, grind down the welds, and pressure test the tank. Bit of work but will leave the tank as good as new and will be invisible if done properly.

[@davog1946]

It’s been mentioned a couple times but I wouldn’t be relying on a compression or leak test on an engine that hasn’t run in years, rings will need reseating for sure.

[@misscrabstick]

reseating a ring? please tell more about what that involves.

[@davog1946]

Rings will become stuck and not seal correctly over time. I’m not saying running it would bring them back but it’s not uncommon for engine that have sat to gain compression again.

[@kashkhan6425]

@@davog1946agreed I'd be tempted to let the cylinders soak in oil

[@guidoenzo]

@@davog1946 Its correct. Valve(s) was open for this cilinder 12 years and accumulated corrosion on valve seats and rings. With a running engine this can resolve itself in short time.

[@stevenplaskett7728]

Engines seal up if they are low milage. Looking in the cam cover that engine is spotless like brand new. With some carbon remover ran through the cylinders it will come right back without removing the internal parts or the heads

[@christopherpilkington8375]

Take the fuel level sending unit out from the top of the tank and you should have a large enough opening to clean the tank and remove the broken filter.

[@derricksmiles6624]

will leave big access hole and able to test sender too, new gasket would be a must

[@bruces12]

Superb suggestion!

[@scott1814]

Gunk carburetor parts cleaner comes in a gallon can! Dump in -follow directions- slosh around....good to go....tanks should be aluminum....so no tank sealing(unless there’s a leak-then use por15 tanks sealer)...your like a young Ed China!! (With nicer hair!!-just kidding Ed!!)

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

First thing I thought of, and a no brainer, but I assumed the filter was trapped in some sort of baffled area that wouldn't allow it to be accessed through the sender hole, since it seemed so obvious to use that method.

[@MetalTrabant]

Great idea! The senders are probably shot anyway, judging by the state of those filters...

[@amisheskimoninja]

These BBi videos have become "drop everything and watch" for me.

[@replica00000]

Three magic words for me on KZbin right now: BBI, Binky, Project Raleigh

[@novasportregister8685]

@@replica00000 what’s Project Raleigh?

[@renegade_legend2583]

@@novasportregister8685 M539 Restorations.

[@potatochobit]

no one lets a new Ferrari sit for it's entire life, something happened to this car.

[@reginaldbowls7180]

I really don't like the gambling sponsor though.

[@stimie]

Before I move anything in the engine. I like to put a little bit of oil in each cylinder on an engine that has been sitting a long time. The reason is the oil rings go dry when it's been sitting. That will help with compression.

[@Ratarossa]

I have done there several times since getting the car. pretty sure its helped the other 11

[@dgwachtel]

I saw someone comment on split crankcases. I've done a lot of those rebuilding Corvair engines. I only learned the trick on the last few rebuilds. When putting the sides back together, tighten the fasteners just a bit and sneak up on the correct torque while bashing the whole lot with a big rubber mallet. This will prevent any slight misalignment that might cause excess crank friction. And those who say you need a compete engine tear down and rebuild are absolutely correct. At this level corner cutting is, or shouldn't be on. Also ignore the people who encourage modding the engine, don't even think about it. The car's value as a classic will tank. -dave

[@kkanakis1957]

Use a "flexible parts claw" to secure the filter from moving around internal baffling. Let gravity be your friend and rotate the tank to bring the filter to the extraction hole. Use long needle nose or stout hemostats to pull it through. -I always used radiator repair shops to boil out and use like a POR coating to seal a new.

[@MrSimonurry]

I had exactly the same idea of using the flex claw !

[@Dave5843-d9m]

No need for a POR liner. It’s aluminium. But the usual caustic clean is not possible (it eats aluminium). Might be possible to swab it out via the outlet hole with phone cam.

[@ruinman8722]

Cyl. rings are stuck. Just put a very few drops of diesel into the cyl. and you're going to be alright. Rebuilding an engine like this is always risky, because there's not many out there who does this on daily basis, so until it's not 100% necessary, try to avoid a full rebuild.

[@taketimeout2share]

You work bloody hard. You dont take short cuts and you obviously have acquired a lot of experience through doing things yourself. I for one am very impressed and don't need to wish you luck because bad luck is no impediment to you. You just bite the bullet and graft harder. Despite that I wish you success in all you do.

[@marc888r]

I found this gem of a channel a little while ago and since then I'm binge watching. But.... I'm sure I speak for all of your subscribers and id love to see more about the man behind the camera, I'd love to know how you got into Ferraris in the first place and how you developed your knowledge and things about you etc etc. Much love from a Ratarossa fan.

[@TheFirstStater]

"Let me investigate here" is guy code for read the instructions or look on KZbin.

[@Backin48]

Thant's what I do!! LOL

[@thepassionofthegoose5472]

"Come take a look at this" is the same thing, but said when working with others who know more.

[@nferraro222]

Two ideas for the gas tank. First off, pull the fuel sender unit. If, for some reason, it still won' t fall out, get a standard 2-foot spring loaded "retrieval stick" and tape your camera to that. Option 2 is connect a thin, flexible hose to your shop vac. This works better than you'd think. I had to grab junk out a a 250 gallon heating oil tank and this trick saved my neck. Also, I didn't blow myself to pieces via diesel and a sparking shop-vac motor, so it all worked out.

[@rennkafer13]

I see a lot of people saying "stuck rings"... if that were the case they'd be losing air through the crankcase, not past the valves. Being able to spin the follower/shim proves nothing about having a stuck valve. My bet is either a stuck valve, valves that were open and have a rust knob on them, or a burnt valve.

[@Ratarossa]

good to know Bill

[@rennkafer13]

@@Ratarossa Another suggestion I'd make. We had a 288 GTO in the shop that had sat a lot, and the aluminum pipes that go through the tunnel rotted through (multiple tiny pinholes). So what you'd get was a small bit of drainage out of that tunnel. The engine has to be out to get to them (and if the BBi is anything like the 288 they're difficult to remove anyway), so I'd pull them and have a look. Might be able to inspect them on the inside first with the borescope since they rot from the inside out. We had replacements made from stainless steel. Wasn't inexpensive but they wouldn't be a problem again.

[@derekmcfadyen127]

Throw a belt on it ... remove the plugs ... fit gearbox and starter ... give the starter a direct feed which will turn engine over .... might just need to revolve to help clean up cylinder and reseat valves 😁😁.... with also crossing fingers 😁😁

[@lubin2764]

A Rataross episode on the 512 is atm better than any Netflix show!

[@jesterr7133]

Thank you for taking the time to restore this car. It is amazing to me that someone would leave such a rare and valuable car out in the weather to rot. It is almost unbelievable.

[@Spookieham]

Don't lose heart - Generations have passed since Project Binky started and they have only just painted the shell.

[@emanuell5926]

Ratarossa, you so much deserve the golden KZbin Award, you do give us viewers so much pleasure with your work, thank you for that

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

Congratulations 🎈 on 100k and dang near 150k

[@bastogne315]

Yeah if he starts advertising for drugs he'll get 100k more.

[@Dave5843-d9m]

Drop the gambling adverts.

[@startingtech3900]

151

[@garrettlowell7637]

Have had the carbon buildup issue on several engines. In both cases, everything else was in very good condition: piston heads, valves and valvetrain, rod bearings, cylinder walls were smooth with only factory cross-hatching visible. We very carefully cleaned the carbon deposits, with the affected cylinder facing the ground. Yes, we had faces full of BCBs (burnt crunchy bits) and cleaning chemicals, so protective gear is essential. Nothing fell into the cylinder. We cleaned all of the cylinders-if one has it, several others are likely, as well. We also performed a valve job as there were lots of carbon built up as well. Then, pre-lube all, new gaskets everywhere, reassemble. Fogging oil and pre-lube are very important for the first attempted start. I do not recommend any rust-treating liquids in the cylinders if you think you have a frozen piston ring, unless you really hate yourself. Pull that piston out and replace the rings and clean up the piston.

[@scottpeters1142]

Sounds like cylinder 12 has some stuck rings. Could tip the engine to one side and pour diesel fuel into the cylinder. Let it soak for a night and then do the leak down test again

[@antonyrowestaustell8428]

i think i would do the diesel trick .you have nothing to lose

[@jacobb1354]

I used phosphoric acid to clean the fuel tank on my ‘76 Porsche 911. Also had some carbon buildup on cylinder one which prevented piston from moving through TDC. I used Amsoil powerfoam to loosen it up. Try that first before tear down. It’s probably the rings that are stuck. Powerfoam will also loosen up the rings if they’re simply stuck.

[@niosanfrancisco]

On the edge of my seat on this one and ENJOYING IT ~!! CONGRATULATIONS ON THE KZbin 100K

[@jamesdunn3387]

In Florida and Michigan I've used radiator repair shops to "boil" out my fuel tanks on motorcycles and cars, as well as pressure test for leaks. The problem is the finish on the outside of the tank will also get cleaned off, so you've got to be ready to refinish that to factory spec as well. It is usually under $100 if no repairs are needed, and increases tremendously if repairs are needed.

[@guymorris7860]

With the general lack of abuse and original honing marks still on cylinder wall id guess the motor is generally ok. Lack of leackdown pressure im guessing is dirty valve seats. Or maybe sticky rings on that piston. Should be all good with some cleaning and a new head gasket.

[@didierleclerc66]

The quality of your work, of your vids, definitely deserves a much larger garage.

[@sccarguy8242]

The rings must be stuck/gummed. There is a good chance that once the motor runs and gets some heat in it they will free up. However the last thing you want to do is get it all back together and find out that’s not the case. In a normal motor I would say drop the pan and pull that one piston, but I think (I’m not 100% sure) that’s a split case motor which is an entirely different animal. So I would probably let her soak with some kerosene or diesel in the cyl... then take a blow torch to that cyl and try to get some heat in her. Then re test..... I’m honestly not sure what else can be done without splitting the case.

[@ajdahun]

I have had good success with marvel mystery oil, if it is not a stuck ring, sometimes the walls dry out so much that all you need to do is squirt a bit of motor oil down the sparkplug hole and rotate the engine. But this was before we had bore scopes to look into the engine

[@MisterMechanicV]

@Ratarossa Just because the tappets are spinning freely, does not mean the valve itself isn't hanging up or has too much carbon on the seat to seal correctly. You're this far into it now, it's not much more work to pull the cams and the head to inspect things. Also, would've been worth putting a tablespoon or two of oil in the cylinder, turning it over, and then checking the leakdown again. Sometimes that can seal up the old rings where air was escaping and narrow down the problem. Although you'd want an engine stand so you can get the piston facing right way up. Damn boxer engines. Good luck! Great rebuild series.

[@TermiCobraKid]

Please tell me if this is stupid but why not fill the tanks with hot water/degreaser to clean them? If those filters are buoyant (again I have no idea) they will float to the top where you could grab them with a tool. Dump out the degreaser and water and let them dry?

[@TermiCobraKid]

And by tool I mean one of those small magnetic “pickup tools” with the claw/fingers that grab parts

[@Ratarossa]

Ill give anything a try

[@michaelbaka4777]

I inherited a '64 Chrysler with a gummed fuel tank. Every place wanted a small fortune for another, with no warranty on it, if it would even fit!! Car sat for over 30 years!!! I bought a can of laquer thinner and used about a quart of it in there, swished it around then let it sit for about 8 hours. When I poured it out, it was VERY nasty. Threw in another pint or so, swished THAT around then pressure-washed it the best I could. Let it dry for almost 2 days and it looked like NEW inside. Try it, it works!!!!! Good luck with this beauty!

[@Ratarossa]

cheers buddy ill give it a go

[@DuperSuperDave]

I highly suggest purchasing "Evapo-Rust" and filling the cylinders thru the spark plug holes then letting it sit for at least 18 to 24 hours. It's an amazing product with no corrosive properties then wet-vac out the evapo-rust followed by a light coat of Mobil 1 0W-20 Full Synthetic. I really hope you have not been rotating the engine dry! I saw where you drained the oil but unless you tear down the engine immediately, I would replenish the oil and filters while performing tests..it's just cheap insurance.

[@richarddarsa6353]

I love the way you are peeling back the layers of the onion, hoping you won't need to go any further - but the reality is, it needs to come apart completely. So get on with it! & well done so far - brilliant video!!

[@carlylekhan7007]

Hi Scotty. Suggestion. To get Fuel Tanks Clean. Usually A Radiator Special will be able to Steam Clean Tanks. Just in case you may need to open a panel to clean and remove old filter. Not sure about if there is any available at your location. Cheers Carlyle

[@conniebenny]

Another terrific update to one of the most gripping stories currently on KZbin! And congratulations on your KZbin star, it's thoroughly deserved.

[@gregoryreschke914]

Did you look down the intake and exhaust ports to see condition of the valves? Could have a piece of debris holding a valve open

[@sccarguy8242]

Fair point, but that would have shown after he pulled the cover. The pressure would have prevented him from spinning them.

[@rennkafer13]

@@sccarguy8242 all he's spinning there is the follower/shim, not the valve itself. A stuck open valve wouldn't keep those from spinning, would make it easier actually. Given they were losing pressure from the valves and not through the crankcase my bet is either a stuck valve(s) or a burnt exhaust valve.

[@LEF3133]

Considering how much crap was in cylinder 12 it could have the same crap under the valves. They didn’t seem to check for leakage out the rocker covers for cracked piston or ring issue!

[@CoastalAutoReactionCAR]

Congrats on the play button Brother! So stoked for you!

[@anthonyg4671]

Just a thought, why not put that rear end up on a wood and rope swing so you get some room back,and it won't get damaged.

[@Spookieham]

I'm bricking it thinking someone is going to stand on that or drop something on it.

[@JoeyWebber955]

The idea of putting all the various parts in bags and labeling them is a good idea from a previous video . Now seeing you talk all the pics before take down ,, that makes putting things back together later so much easier . As for the fuel tanks ,,, I have used white vinegar to clean all the old fuel schmutz from tanks . It is cheap , non corrosive and you can get it at your local market .

[@djrose3]

Congratulations on reaching this milestone! Well Done! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@hmayesh]

It's about time you broke the 150k mark. I don't know why more people don't watch your channel. Your content is great

[@rjnation5042]

Mate you've got big brass one's pulling that down in your garage, really impressive, Rj in Oz

[@markscully2342]

it's a tractor engine, doesn't need a nasa clean room

[@rjnation5042]

@@markscully2342 just the guts to take on rebuilding a engine like that himself is what I meant, I've got a few cars that I work on, & a few more that I don't, Rj

[@fredderf551]

@@rjnation5042 Sorry it's not rocket science.

[@hyway62]

@@markscully2342 are u mixing up Farrari with lambo they started off making 🚜

[@markscully2342]

@@hyway62 I wasn't I was just having a dig at Ferrari because Lamborghini engines were higher tech than Ferrari back then!

[@stevehoulihan726]

You obviously know your way around these cars, and you're very confident. Last year I changed a rocker seal, and all four shocks and springs on my Audi 80. Biggest work I've ever done on a car but nowhere near as brave and involved as what you're into here!

[@TheLEMRR]

Congrats on the milestone - you deserve it, mate!

[@danycamirand4794]

I really like your channel! Keep it up! Fixing a Ferrari in his tiny home garage is awesome to follow! This car is great. I cannot believe someone let it sat for more than a decade. From Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

[@E..M..]

Hey Scott, I started watching you when you were in the hundreds and not surprised to see you in the magazine. Surprised you don't have more subscribers!

[@wnwildnature9641]

For what it's worth...I just finished a major engine rebuild on my GT......and as I worked on disassembling the engine I took hundreds of photos of every detail as I moved along...by the time the rebuild was underway..I would have completely forgotten the correct orientation of various parts and pieces..the extensive photo library ( up close detail ) saved the day at least a dozen times...at the end of rebuild...she fired up on first crank and no oil or coolant leaks etc...just do this.. You ;ll be happy you did. Savanna ( . )( . )

[@RogerM88]

Nice to see your channel grow. Hope in a near future you upgrade for a well deserved bigger garage. Cheers.

[@Ratarossa]

I hope so too

[@jsteifel]

for all tanks find a old fashioned radiator guy. They do all tanks, cleaning and repairing. A radiator and tank both get pressure tested, both get cleaned. That motor looks good. It doesn't look like it will need much, except for a cleaning and maybe one cylinder honing and new rings. Obviously you would possibly hone all cylinders while at it.

[@rg807]

You should be able to have the tanks ultrasonically cleaned. That is probably the easiest and fastest way to get them 100% clean.

[@Rossi593]

Ok, I’ll stop worrying about my old 2 cylinder BMW engine..... Scary stuff and really one for the specialists so at least you have some comeback. Keep up the good work!

[@lukedarby6815]

A dingle-ball hone of the top of that cylinder will sort that out, but I'd wager it's a stuck ring that's the issue. Put some marvel mystery or if you can't find any, some ATF into 12 and let it soak. If it drains away, you've got a stuck or broken ring.

[@nitrusmr2]

Yes, I came here to tell him to soak the cylinder. Rotate it around until it’s as low abs possible and both valves are shut. Then fill it to the rim through the spark plug hole with Marvel or WD40. Let it sit for a couple days. Then crank over to remove the fluid (most will run right out the exhaust)

[@ezacher4634]

I agree. Ring is probably stuck. Soak in atf for a week and see what you get.

[@kettudafoxyfox2351]

I would get a hose and listen to the exhaust side and see if you hear anything out of it. Then so the same with the intake side. If you get nothing when the piston is a at tdc then listen to the crank cased rom the oil fill. . And very worse case is listen to the cooling system in case it’s a head gasket or something is cracked into the cooling system. As far as what I would do is probably go with bearing rings and clean the valve seats and valves. Hone the bore out clean the pistons and give it a refresh. Also if you find it’s entering the crank case or the cooling system and your going to take it apart then ask a machine shop to do a block crack test if they are able to do it. Beat of luck and really enjoy watching this series! Cheers!

[@FukuokaBen]

If you can get your hands on the pro grade BG Carbon Removing product that might help you clean the cylinder without having to disassemble the lower part of the block or remove the heads. I used it on a 308 with bad compression results and it significantly improved the situation. It’s meant to be used as a treatment on a running engine but may be able to do its job if you soak piston 12.

[@cupidstunt22]

Nobody better than Rardley motors for fixing up the engine!

[@gurkpojken]

Imagine if the guy who put this engine in the car from the beginning at the factory watch this now.

[@DScaglione.]

YES! He should shoutout to him to see if he’s still around and able to be reunited with it and help. Wouldn’t that be brilliant?

[@martinmoffitt4702]

He'd be like Eh Wadda you do? eh?..get away from ther' I fix'a the right way!

[@antipodeanwizard1632]

Retired at 55. Dead at 60.

[@jan-hendrikbussmann4644]

Presenting your 100k trophy at 150k subscribers. Great job and thank you for taking us with you on the journey. Your channel is something very special.

[@carlfrederick8433]

For the fuel filter in the tank remove the sending unit and then with a stiff wire shaped in the needed manner use your scope to have the wire harpoon ar catch the filter in some manner so you can pull the filter out. Rather than a wire you can also use a long reach flexible pick up tool which typically has four fingers that are operated by a lever on the end you hold.

[@iBot1978]

Use the hover and hover it out there 😜

[@stevem5139]

Yo man I’m a ASE mechanic in the states I can’t believe the stuff you get done in your home garage no lift in white sneakers! Nice job looking forward to next video already

[@abhishekpardhi]

Congratulations for the play button🎉🎊

[@harmonicadude4732]

For cleaning out the tank. Fill it halfway up with lacquer thinner and attach it to something that spins slowly for a day or 2. It should clean it up.

[@petercan1020]

You should dump some ATF fluid down cylinder 12 might just be a stuck piston ring but the ATF fluid sitting there for a couple of days

[@greengeeker1]

Yeah, I didn't hear intake/exhaust during leakdown test and suspect a stuck ring.

[@gato69evo]

Been there, done that

[@jimcear1766]

Please fill the cylinder with some ATF , Marvel Mystery Oil or similar as suggested . Consider bringing the piston up and put a LITTLE pressure on the filled cylinder and leave it sit as Peter suggests. Nothing to loose. Might get lucky. 🤞

[@ingresswizard9044]

I also agree I think the ring is just stuck a little.

[@chandlerlofton6536]

You would hear it leak at the oil fill hole if it’s getting by the rings. Like Peter says, a little ATF would probably get them freed back up.

[@kentmckean6795]

Mix up a liter of diesel with a cup of ATF, roll the engine so #12 is vertical and put the piston down 3 or 4 inches in the bore. Add in the diesel/ATF mixture and let it sit for a few days. Top up the cylinder as it will work its way past the rings over time. With luck, this will dissolve the much at the top of the cylinder bore and free up the rings. Good luck.

[@stephenlaw9886]

Ferrari rebuild in your home garage,wow

[@Ordrock7]

I have two old chevy trucks and we have a powder/anodize shop near where I live and they also have a furnace where they put in things like my fuel tanks. The furnace burns the old varnished crap out of the inside and turns it into ash. Then after the fire treatment i use compressed air and a vacuum to pull all of the ash out. You abn also use water to hose every thing out. I did that too and then used a hair dryer to dry out and heat the tank. Good as new. The furnace also cleans the outside and a bit of glass beading on the outside made the take as good as new. Scott in southern Oregon USA

[@RoyalTiger13]

Love the series from a happy subscriber!!!!!

[@gliddofglood]

I can tell you're an optimist (which is what makes watching this channel so refreshing) because only an optimist would wear immaculate, white trainers in an environment full of grease and oil! Respect!

[@davecashmore16]

Just bought an old 1/18 scale Burago Testarossa model. Going to make a Ratarossa model from it.

[@HawaiiSurfboard]

For your aluminum gas tanks use Aluminium Brightener. Slosh some around inside the tank, spray some on outside of tank. The stuff works fast so 5 - 10 minutes, wash it off. Look at the results and repeat as you feel necessary. Love the show keep up the good entertaining work. Wishing you all the best in 2021.

[@robertaccorsini4663]

Amazing! He works on a car with bright white sneakers on and they don’t even get dirty.

[@stuartd9741]

I know magic 👍

[@Shane-zx4ps]

Yeah but they are steel toe trainers

[@mr.dmr.d9348]

With the tanks, You could do with going down the spray-paint shop and buying 2x Gallons of paint thiner or trikeohetholine and put it in the tank swash it around and leave for a week . Then when you empty it out all the crude oils and solids will wash out... you can vacuum it out then once it full evaporates.....I usually add a smaller tube on the end of my vacuum to fit down in the tank. This has worked great for me. Thanks.

[@OD_MAN99]

Get a strip for the area where the garage door meets the concrete. You’re losing a boat ton of heat through there.

[@mb3656]

Don’t think Scott has any heat in his garage

[@keyboarddancers7751]

I have no thoughts or suggestions. This is some of the best entertainment on YT.

[@deancain9387]

you already have the engine out, I would do a full rebuild before reinstalling it so you know for sure it is good.

[@erikroelans8391]

I have no idea why to play around by turning an engine over which is sitting that long. It is out, just open up and check, clean, rebuild.

[@JerzeyBoy]

@@erikroelans8391 Right! Me knowing it's freaking Ferrari engine. I would not do some half ass rebuild. I would open the bottom end(Or split the block) of the engine to check how dry those rod bearings are and how the crankshaft bearing seals are. I wouldn't bother cheaping out too on this engine. Even though I don't like Ferrari's, I like how they made there engines.

[@erikroelans8391]

@@JerzeyBoy Ferrari had a great business model for maintenance! With the newer Ferrari's it seems to be more moderate.

[@mattskinner5432]

I’ve got to admire your nerve tackling such a project. Loving it

[@georgehuser4711]

Oh yes! Another episode!

[@Anadinolin]

I look forward to your videos, watch them on Sunday while I cook a nice roast!! I say it every time but its an inspiration for me to keep on going with my own restoration!!

[@georgewaddell6553]

Re: the valve on the leak test kit, didn't you use the adaptor from your compression tester? Or did I pick that up wrong. Great car and great to see you working on getting it back on the road!

[@gsp911]

No adaptor. 16:30

[@wernerdanler2742]

He did use that valve but the Schroeder valve is on the hose. I'm surprised he didn't see that. I bet the provided adaptors have a pin in them to push the stem in on the valve. He never looked at them or didn't photo them so who knows.

[@ddrt8824]

This is like a bucket list item...to work and rebuild such as rare car. Wish I was over there to help you out with it!

[@Minoltalphafan]

One had to suspect there was a major engine issue, hence the sitting in the drive for a decade.

[@davidroush1224]

Yup .... as guy who has restored several cars and have 2 in progress right now, I instinctively chuckled out loud when in a past episode he was hoping he could just clean the engine up really well and that would be all it would need. I would have just planned on a full rebuild from the start given the condition the car was stored at for years. Just the reality of these type projects.

[@dgwachtel]

I apologize for the long post in advance but here are some of my adventures in engine rebuilding and racing. I started out Ice Racing Corvairs on lakes In upstate NY . Some of these cars were in pretty good condition all things considered. My racing buddy and I even got a couple of cars for free. The first thing I always did was take the boxer six cylinder out and tear it completely down. Next step after clean up was to hone the cylinders and remove the ridge at the top with a reamer, then scratch it up with a hone with the proper stones in it. If not done properly the rings won't seal. (Been there on an MGB rebuild, no tee shirt though) cut and grind the valves, replace all the seals and reassemble. If required, I replaced iffy parts with new and better pieces. The last ice racing motor I did was for a little Fiat 850 for which the innards were race prepared by the race shop and then assembled by me. It featured, spoilers front and rear, an aero "wind screen", modified brakes and suspension and, blew the Corvairs out the the (ice) water, during the weekends that I could race - calculus quizzes on alternate Mondays :( I had three wins, two seconds, one third and one DNF (hit up the rump by another competitor in a Corvair. I had two free donor wrecks so the broken parts were easily replaced. When I got enough money I went formula car racing. I started out in a beat up Cooper T76 that was so bad that I stuck it in the back of the barn and walked away - the car scared the crap out of me and needed a ground up rebuild which I couldn't come close to affording. I got taken to the cleaners on that one. Then I purchased a used 1 liter F3 Brabham BT28/35 in great condition and after that two separate Formula Fords, the last one a new 1986 Crossle. (Too tall to fit into a Swift. Also too tall for an ex Micheal Andrtti Formula Atlantic car a wealthy guy wanted me to test for him) Later on I got to test a Skip Barber turbo SAAB, doing a quick lap that would have put me fifth on the grid, but alas I ran out of the budget needed to run the next season of the pro series. I bought my FF cars from Skip and also attended two of his schools - got some great coaching! In all the formula cars, particularly the FF's where double cutting the valves and seats wasn't allowed, I refurbished the heads between each race after doing compression, and leak down tests with the engines still installed in the car. In the leak down tests a bad cylinder could be a valve or a bad compression ring or scored cylinder wall. With the cylinder vertical, carefully squirt a little oil into the cylinder and test again. If the leak down test result is better then the cylinder and rings are probably OK and it's most likely leaky valves. Also measure the bores to make sure they are straight.and not unduly worn, same with the pistons. Check with Ferrari or an authorized rebuilder for the relevant dimensions and allowable tolerances. I had a local speed shop do all of the crack testing, lightening (if the pistons were new), balancing, con rod straitening, crank shaft referb, decking and other machine work. Zyglo testing discovered a slight crack that wasn't visible to the eye in one of my ice racing pistons which would have meant a piston failure at some point. It was replaced and race prepped. They were cast pistons, the F3 car pistons were all forged but along the way I had to replace a couple of them as well. At some point the ignition was too far advanced and I was lucky to not have melted one piston clean through. I was more careful about timing and also went to a heat range cooler plug. The racing engine pistons were expensive even then and that was for a an obsolete push rod vintage F3 engine. All pistons and rods were balanced end to end, and matched in weight and the journals machined round with the correct clearance for "undersized" bearings. Your engine probably won't require much shop work as it is low mileage although sitting around for all of those years might have resulted in bore damage. Crack testing and component replacement is lots cheaper than losing a complete engine as I did when my FF engine exploded at about 130 mph due to a faulty small end bearing. My go to builder was a Rensselaer Polytechnic Graduate mechanical engineer who ran a racing and Ferrari engine rebuild shop on Long island. Long story short, the failure was a direct result of some corner cutting by the local speed shop that was unbeknownst to me. Rather than ordering a set of small end bearings from the Long Island shop he had three proper bearings but decided to make one out of another small end bearing or from scratch. The "new" bearing was too soft and pounded out breaking the rod just below the journal. Nothing was salvageable on the engine except the manifolds and the Weber Carb that was modified for Formula Ford. I sold the carb to a guy through Apex Speed for $200.00 wich would be well over $500.00 in today's money. I had just replaced the block with a new race prepared one from my Long Island guy! It was turned into Swiss Cheese. That was my last season of racing. I was out of cash so the engine was never replaced (more than $5000.00 for a new FF engine depending upon the builder back in 1990) I was stupid to use a local speed shop but the guy did drag race engines so I expected good work, Silly me! All in all I've done about 10 engine rebuilds for racing and consulted on one V8 Camero rebuild. The guy, my old ice racing buddy, didn't follow my advice about replacing the pistons with oversize ones or knurling the old pistons when the bore measurements indicated that that was absolutely required. It smoked like a steam engine and he got rid of it soon after. We are still friends but from time to time I bring it up just to have a little fun! I also did a modified Corvair engine for his dune buggy. No dyno test but I reckon it made over 180 HP. At the time it was the fastest car I'd driven until I bought the F3 Brabham. I made a similar mistake earlier on by way of a stupid oversight. I didn't properly prepare the bores on my MGB rebuild and had to do a lot of the work again, this time correctly. It was so bad that it pushed the rear sump cover seal partially out and sprayed oil all over the bell housing and engine bay. Oops. By the way, I had a great week in England shopping for race cars, got to go the the Earls court motor show which was just around the corner from my bread and breakfast. The used race car guys and I went testing at Goodwood and I got to hang out for a bit with Derick Bell a very nice and humble chap, who was there testing for the John Wyer team. Before I left, I put a down payment on my beautiful Brabham. An F 3 car on the installment plan :) Everyone was so nice I was "homesick" for England for a week after getting back to the states. Anyway - Good luck. -dave

[@mrgrumpy771]

let DK engineering look at the engine - you can't afford that to be messed up.

[@brittenv1000]

I had the exact same comment. Great minds think alike

[@sudscoupe]

Dk engineering! If you have no money worries.

[@brodiepedersen4756]

For Cleaning the Aluminium Tank, use a neat ( not diluted ) water based degreaser and ice cubes. I did this on my BMW K75 motorcycle tank and it it came out as good as new, with no residue left behind. The gunge left behind is likely from the hose rubber and isolators being consumed by ethanol blended fuel which has been allowed to sit. In my case I had access to scour any bits of “tar” left. In your case I would suggest ( not tried) using denatured alcohol. If it dissolved the lines to tar it may also melt the tar enough to remove it. I would do ethanol first and then the ice chips and degreaser.

[@mkuehn5450]

i've tied up cycle tanks in towels with a piece of chain inside then thrown them in the clothes dryer, quieter then sneakers. i can't help wondering if those tanks were factory coated on the inside with something needing special treatment. i'd be doing my research carefully.

[@paidoluca]

Best way to remove that gummy is using hot water - it will release all that without damaging the task. Repeat the process two or three and done.

[@dartguy36069]

Those liners should have Nikasil, it's not recommended that you rehome them it's best just to clean them. The piston rings are cast and very expensive. Best bet is to get in there and clean the valves off with some mystery oil to get them to seat properly. It still would be a good idea to pull both cylinder heads and replace the head gaskets. Also highly recommend that you split the engine to transmission and do the oil drain updates. I'm sure you can find the original Ferrari bulletin update

[@hrep14]

There’s a product called “Carbon-X” I’ve seen on YT that is supposed to help de-carbon the combustion chamber without removing the head.

[@Shazam081]

u can also do that with spraying water into an intake of a running engine without chemicals

[@beefcakeandgravy]

Pretty late to the party here but just found this channel and loving the videos! With the compression tester, the schraeder valve is there because normally you would screw the pipe into the spark plug hole then crank the engine on the starter to build pressure. The valve is there to stop the air escaping back into the cylinder on each downstroke, so you can get a steady (maximum) reading of pressure build up from that cylinder. You're kind of using it backwards because obviously you can't crank the engine over, so the valve is causing a 100% blockage to your compressor, so removing the valve would be a good idea to make it work.

[@munirladha6787]

Do not take that engine apart, clean it put on a new timing belt that's it. There is nothing wrong with that engine once it runs again things will seat in. think about it. you just drained the break-in oil.

[@domenicoscalzo6162]

Congrats on 100k! As an Italian and Ferrari lover I truly appreciate your vids! Love seeing the cars I had on my posters as a kid being taken care of with so much love ❤ Respect n thank you🙏🏼🙌🏼

[@munched55]

Love this channel and your projects but I don't get why you're mucking about in an area that obviously isn't your strength on the most expensive part to mess up. Friendly advice: Put the engine in a box and send it to someone that knows what they're doing.

[@_chenn]

💯 and if you want content, film at their place as and when you can

[@gailtaylor1636]

The rings are stuck from carbon build up. Move #12 piston to about 15mm from top and pour a couple ounces of fuel injection cleaner in plug hole. Really need to position the engine so that bank is vertical so fluid surrounds piston. Let it set a couple days. Suck fluid out, blow out with air then add a couple ounces oil. Rotate engine several rotations, redo leak-down.

[@gailtaylor1636]

We use it to reduce oil usage on direct injected engines here in the states that have cyl canceling function. The oil rings get clogged up and they start bailing oil.

[@LeviHeizer]

Soak the cylinders in MMO, let it sit in there, drain it out, turn it a bunch, then try again.

[@RogerM88]

Nice build. I would be tempted to paint the frame to prevent rust...but seeing how freak for original condition are some buyers...maybe would be better keep the original paint coat and restaure the parts with rust.

[@charlie1832]

What did your girlfriend put in your coffee? I’ve never seen someone work so fast

[@Ratarossa]

LOL

[@ricardomatos6316]

Why not cut a window on the tanks and clean it up then get someone to weld aluminium back? Then pressure test for leakage?

[@pipepamama]

Thats a timelapse mate 😂

[@charlie1832]

@@pipepamama I guess you missed the sarcasm mate , of course I know it’s a time lapse

[@gabybosskingofspeed]

High Octane gas.

[@jarleadolfsen9426]

Cam's and valves look good. Quick tip. Try to drop a few drops of oil into the cylinder. Redo the leaktest. If it improves, this indicates a problem with the rings. Ring's can get unstuck if you fill the cylinder with atf, diesel or similar. Worst case, take one head off, hone the actual cylinder, take out the piston and change rings. Seems like overkill to do a full rebuild on such a low milage engine.

[@hassanabbas-pt6wq]

The bublicity of casinò is the worst think you have done .