Fiat 1.4 Liter Multiair Turbo Build Pt. 2

In this video I show you the assembled short block and long block. I'll also go over various assembly tips for the big bore engine, and the head gasket torque specs and procedure.
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[@blainewaldo5422]

I'm repairing a 1.4liter turbo in a 2016 renegade. Very liitle info out there. Your videos have been a huge help. Thanks for doing them!!

[@pjm204]

I'm curious what you are repairing? I'm looking at buying a 2016 Renegade with a "bad" engine. I'm not sure what the exact failure is but I'm wondering if I can repair it versus replacing.

[@mikem3950]

Good show... I really look forward to your informative videos... By the way, could you tell me what kind of red you painted the block?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

I don't remember, but it was the highest temp rated paint at Advanced Auto Parts.

[@markwilliams2620]

Looks like Ford red. Painted the Chevette engine I rebuilt the same. Yes, I rebuilt a Chevette....I was 19 and stupid.

[@jpcia260]

Head torque specs same for the Non Turbo? Getting a lot of confusing information...

[@kolbpilot]

From what I've learned about the FIAT FIRE engine is the 84 mm stroke is about the absolute utmost it can be stroked due to physical limitations. Undersquare engines seem to be standard fare for most 4 cylinders these days & it appears FIAT went for maximum efficiency stroking their engine. Smokey Yunick felt every engine should be stroked to its utmost. The FIRE series engine started life with a 70 mm bore (and shorter stroke), was de-bored, & then only upped 2 mm to 72. I remember Honda's CB500 was bored out to make the CB550, and then bored out again to make the CB650, although many feel Honda probably bored a little too far with that one. What do you think the FIAT FIRE bore limit is ? My take on things is that if FIAT wasn't planning on turboing the FIRE block, then possibly they could have bored up to 75 mm ? But, they had turbo plans all along for the FIRE engine (where the long stroke comes in handy) so the bore remained the same, probably for simplicity between it and the non-turbo version & more material around the cylinders for boost reliability. I've always likened the latest & last incarnation of the FIRE engine, the 1368 cc version, as an engine with 1000 cc pistons & a stroke worthy of a 1600 cc engine, which equals 1368 cc in FIAT's case.

[@kevinbarry71]

Five year expired sealant? Why? Because nobody ever rebuilds these things; they throw them in the trash. An interesting engine with interesting technology.

[@ImOldLegs]

Yes. This is how to start a morning. Coffee. Greg's voice.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Thanks Baloopadoops. I like saying that name.

[@will3835]

Great way to finish my day being on night shift. Also those shots of an empty Newark airport were incredible.

[@moes920]

Where did you get your documentation from if I wanted to rebuild a engine as a diy project?

[@corvette724]

this engine is great, clean and will run better than new. Do u balance the cranc, piston and rods?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Yes, it's been balanced, but the factory balancing was so close that it's going to be a minimal improvement in that regard.

[@akumabito2008]

Excellent video - thanks for sharing! i am working on the granddaddy of this engine - the 1242cc 8v version from the early 90s. 75hp stock, but with some work and forced induction I'm aiming for 140 ~150hp.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

That sounds fun. Are you supercharging it?

[@akumabito2008]

@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles It's a budget build, I'll use an Eaton M45 supercharger as those are cheap and plentiful. I am partially copying a moyor setup by Finish youtuber Jonik. He started with a Chinese Aisin AMR500 clone but had reliability issues. He then upgraded to an Eaton M62, but that seems overkill for my power goals. The M45 sits right in between those two and should be a decent match. The engine will go into a 1987 Fiat Panda citycar. It was fitted with the OG of the Fiat FIRE engine - a carbed 999cc pumping out 44hp. It'll be a fun hot hatch with 3x the power.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

I wrote a book and this subject. It deals with how to home build a good supercharger kit: www.amazon.com/SUPERCHARGING-guide-superchargers-water-injection-ebook/dp/B00FGDKK5Q . I should mention it's included in the 5 dollar Patreon level, so that's the cheapest way to read it.

[@philjowett3760]

Greg, Really glad you're well and healthy and arrived safely back after your travels. Fab video again, thanks for sharing with the 124 community. I'm really excited to see this progress. Great work!

[@jmc6940]

What kind of valve guide to stem clearances do you run or like to see.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

factory specs. I'm not a believer in the whole "set it up loose" thing with valve guides, at least not on modern turbo engines.

[@1sinister80]

Why do you torture yourself my mechanically inclined friend. These are horrible engines and burn oil and fail so prematurely. Fix It Again Tony.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

My Fiat 500L has 140,000 miles on it and its been great.

[@1sinister80]

@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles You, sir, are the exception to the rule 😉

[@dougborrett3566]

Why does the video appear to be filmed in the midst of a fog, or is your phone lens greasy? it is very hard to watch, I thought it was my eyes at first.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

It was foggy that day.

[@02fronty]

Greg, mind me asking who did your porting? You? Shop? I picked up a new head with the intention to port and polish and maybe spring for titanium valves to ease up the load on the little valve springs, but looking at the sizes of the valve seats, I'm 99% sure I'll gouge something and make a nice looking piece of scrap. Any help is appreciated. Looking forward to an update video! *wink wink

[@icebreaka1969]

good to see you video shows the valve springs and retainers, tomorrow I am going to tear mine apart and replacing all valve stem seals, they causing a oil burn pretty bad.

[@johndangelo9630]

Greg, the 2 Thrust bushings are worn through on my Fiat 124. Q1: Is it possible to replace just the upper thrust bushings themselves, while the engine is in the car? (after removing the bottom assembly of CAPS, "the lower main bearing cradle"... which connects to the upper bedplate) Q2: I have heard that it might be possible to place a full thrust bearing on both upper and lower on the No. 3 journal, so that it should better support the forces of the clutch on the crank. What Do you think?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

John, this is something we would have to discuss via phone. If you're an EC customer send them and email and they should be able to give you a time on Monday when you can call me, or I can call you.

[@jpcia260]

Im doing my rebuild on my Fiat 500 1.4L. I notices when head came of, and I set the timing tool prior, that the pistons were even..... I would have assumed that piston one would be at the highest point?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

\ The timing tools for the 1.4 multi air do NOT lock any of the pistons at top dead center.

[@thomasjoyce7910]

Engine block clearly made out of jello. Excellent deadpan delivery. This years best April Fools video.

[@5ub7even]

Great video. I like that you're referring to a workshop manual for torque specs and processes. Is it available for sale somewhere? Many thanks

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

You can get them from the Fiat dealer

[@Thomas..Anderson]

Question: What is the exact reason for the head gasket not to overhang even a little bit. My three guesses would be in no particular order: 1. Piston can clear the block deck on TDC and hit the gasket. This would be very uncommon. 2. Head gasket lip overhanging in the bore is not compressed and exposed to combustion therefore susceptible to failure of some sort. 3. Head gasket lip protruding in the combustion chamber can create a hot spot and increase tendency to knock or even detonate. Just curious.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Hi Thomas, great question, it's reasons 2 and 3, although if the engine isn't built quite right I suppose reason 1 could factor in. In practical terms what will happen is that the gasket will come apart and the metal pieces will tear up the engine, and if that doesn't kill it, the gasket will probably blow.

[@terryboyer1342]

JB Weld to the rescue!

[@corvette724]

U are a engine wizzard. right word, i'm german?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Hi Alex, nice to see you here. I don't claim to be an expert on anything, but I do have a lot of experience with Italian engines, and American V8s.

[@burroaks7]

the fucking plauge...... lmfao have you been to jewel lately.... the ad-hoc screwed on "sneeze guards" for cashiers. on another point I'm glad I don't work in a supermarket....those places are gross enough

[@burroaks7]

also righteous videos, every one of em. Curious if you have seen he "machine thinking" channels video about the mesta presses?? it is quite awesome. Seeing how they recently repaired the Ohio one they will be able to make "all the F-35 parts"and B-52 wing-spars and suchnot to keep em flying into the 2040's. honestly I am legit curious about how they will keep those airframes airworthy that long... I am not a pilot or even involved in the aerospace industry, knowing that there are hourly limits on structural components I'm,curious if you have any insight on this?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

I'm afraid I don't know. Metallurgy and fatigue are outside my areas of knowledge.

[@hellboy2783]

hello sir.... excellent video..... i have a abarth 2014 where i can find the manual engine ... thankyou a lot

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

From the dealer.

[@MikeyTurbo]

Amazing video thank you

[@marcwydronek4122]

Looking for some 1.4 multi air info I have a 2013 Dodge Dart bought the car with a blown engine came with another engine, the engine it came with is a 2015 has external things that are different but what I am trying to find out are there any internal differences that would keep this engine from working like the camshaft,pistons etc… any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Hi Marc, if that's your real name and you are an EC customer I can look up your number and give you a call. This would be way easier over the phone.

[@marcwydronek4122]

I tried replying with my number but I guess maybe that isn’t allowed. I’m not sure what EC is? And my name is Marc

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Eurocompulsion, I do tech support for them. I guess that means you are not a customer, thus I can't pull up your number. Oh, well, it was an idea.

[@bigcharliesmodelgarage296]

Cool. Thanks for sharing

[@HeIsLegend1992]

Hey man, love this build! I have a 2016 Dodge Dart 1.4T, does EC get a lot of 1.4 Dart customers?

[@tiitsaul9036]

Thanks for sharing. I don’t see how tiny increase in displacement would increase power. Peak power would be reached at slightly lower rpm perhaps? Real benefit of larger bore is more room for bigger valves. Is bigger bore on its own really worth it? Love your videos. (If you wipe your camera lens with your shirt prior filming, I’d love it even more :) )

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

AMC went from a 390 to a 401. Was that worth it?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

And Chevrolet bumped the 396 up to a 402.

[@mpetersen6]

@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles The primary reason as I understand it that AMC stroked the 390, 290 and 343 was for emissions. It really didn't gain them much if any power with the slightly tougher emissions resulting in a slight power loss. At least that's the story I got from the engineers. I used to work at Kenosha Engine until 2005. Big empty field now

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Each of those engines you listed has more power than the next one down, the 401 has more power than the 390, which has more than the 343 and so on. The 1971 401 with 10.2:1 compression had 335hp/435tq, higher than any 390 except for a few special versions produced in super low numbers, and even those only have 5 more hp and less torque.The 401 still had more power under the curve. An equivalent 390 with 10.2:1 has 325/420. All things equal, more displacement gives more power.

[@mpetersen6]

@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles We both know the HP figures from the 60s and early 70s are suspect. The whole gross hp claims from most manufactures was a game they played. Even if the 401 say in 71 put out 15 more hp by 72 or 73 every manufacturers engines were being gradually emasculated. For all the hype about Hemi Cudas, Boss Mustangs, 396 Chevelles etc there are more fast cars built today than there were then. Plus everything built in the Muscle Car Era handled and braked like a semi on ice. True you could improve them by adding aftermarket or dealer installed factory parts. One example. A 1969 SC/Rambler equipped with dealer installed rear disc brakes was capable of 1÷gee stops. How many before brake fade set in that's another issue. The same package was able to be ordered as a dealer installed option on both the Javelin and AMX. I know other manufacturers had dealer installed options that went even farther. Probably the two best overall performance cars built in the time period in the US were the Z-28 Camaro and the 69/70 Boss Mustangs. I know the Z was available with dual quads from the factory. Just how many were built is of course a good question. The Mustangs in 1970 showed up at the first race of the season with what were essentially 4 barrel Webers. The throats on these were spaced to match the inlet spacing on the heads. The carbs were supposed to be in the parts catalog. Whether that many were built is a good question. Another example of questionable parts is the front and rear discs used on Penske (later Allison) NASCAR Matadors were equipped with brake rotors from Porsche 917s. But they had an AMC part number. Yah, right.

[@jmrico1979]

I'm not an expert in adhesives mind you. But It's my understanding that the original OEM brand sealant is not exactly the same as rtv silicone. In motorcycle engines it's pretty common for crankcase halves to use no gasket. Only adhesive. And in all the shop manuals you read the same phrase "use only the oem brand sealant". In motorcycles we usually use yamabond 4 or as an option ThreeBond 1104 which I'm pretty sure it's the same product. I believe ThreeBond manufactures for yamaha. I believe these products are not silicone. They are synthetic rubber, the difference between that and silicone I have no idea. But one thing I do know is that these products have less tendency to ball up on the inside of the engine when there is excess product. That little excess of material, with time, tends to break off and then clog up oil screens or lines. Anyway, like I said, I no expert sadly, but I'm pretty sure the correct products are the best option here. Thanks for the video!

[@patrickroher4760]

Tighten til bolt breaks back off quarter-turn.

[@davidelliott5843]

With bike engines it’s common to make a copper head gasket for overbores. Silly question - would that work on a high power turbo engine like this?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Yes it would work.

[@wingracer1614]

Just a little tip if you ever have to open up another head gasket, flap wheel sanders like this are great for that sort of thing. Goes a lot quicker but still easy to control. www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/502-3-8-flapwheel-80-grit

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Thanks.

[@Rubberweasel]

I'm pretty sure you could've used Honda red or Toyota black for sealing and been ok.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Japanese stuff on my Italian car, never! Oh, wait a second....

[@Lou-f]

intresting as ever👍 what's stock output and what are you planning to get with this build?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Thanks, stock is 160hp at the flywheel. The most we have run on pump gas is around 250hp at the flywheel. I'm planning on running more in this engine. I'll put up dyno and acceleration data once it's done.

[@gort8203]

Very interesting, thanks Greg.

[@jerrytee2688]

Hi Greg, what angles did you go with on the valve seats? Maybe you already mentioned it previously, if so, sorry. I enjoy all your work.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Hi Jerry, I can't disclose that just yet.

[@jerrytee2688]

@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles Got it, thanks.

[@heltongcarvalho]

Good morning I'm from Brazil, if possible send the link to the manual you used to assemble the engine

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Unfortunately it's copyrighted so I can't do that.

[@heltongcarvalho]

@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles thanks for the feedback, or if possible forward the link to purchase lhe manual.

[@Inpreesme]

Thank you

[@richardschaffer5588]

I think YOU doing a plague video is a good idea. You keep a level head when everyone else is losing it.

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

I did, and they demonitiezed in almost right away. I was even going soft of some of it. I have asked for a manual review.

[@richardschaffer5588]

too bad. I like your videos because you keep it factual with a minimum of blaming and name calling. There have been plenty of goof ups by everybody involved, but finger pointing won’t help us now. My own very humble opinion is that we have failed in the observe and orient phases so our decisions and actions have been late and ill informed. We Americans have created the greatest systems for gathering, analyzing and disseminating information in history, and we didn’t use them. The best example is our failure to test, so we don’t know how it spreads and what works to stop it. Stay healthy!

[@cannonroberts5129]

Hey greg interesting idea for a series!

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Thanks. There will be a few more of these videos because I'm putting the engine together right now, and these only take a few mins to make. I'm also working on aircraft videos, but those take much much longer to make.

[@bobwhite5440]

nice vid series.

[@jpcia260]

did you reuse head bolts?

[@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles]

Not on this engine, but you can in this case. The manual has a procedure for checking them, if they pass you can re-use them, if not you must replace them. Now the rod bolts are another matter, they are one time use, so are the flywheel bolts.