Final Night of the Golden Egg Wasn't a Total Goose Egg

This is the final night of the Mississippi Street Stock Challenge Golden Egg at Magnolia Motor Speedway in Columbus, MS. Although we did not make the feature, we did improve our car and by the time we made it to our B Main it was becoming competitive. A lot of great stuff in this episode including how to change a spring at the track, improvise a tie down to hold a spring, and we included the entire Golden Egg feature race at the end.
We also did some on the spot improvising like our friend Ryan "Cherezian Racing" does. Check him out @ / rcsaabchevy
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[@rollrateguy6109]

I almost forgot, 54 wins! Proud to have worked with those guys developing that car over the last few years. Great people.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Not bad fast, Thrash Fast!

[@jasonhoffman9895]

Hey Jason if you’re learning you’re winning but you already know that, I can’t wait to see your progress as you get this thing dialed in. Always rooting for ya👍.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thank you Jason, yes, I felt good Saturday night because I could tell I was starting to get a concept of what this ole girl wants from me in order to get faster. Appreciate you watching.

[@thomassanders6679]

It's good to see you excited, congrats on moving forward and competing

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks Thomas, I have a plan now and can see what needs to be done! Sure getting excited, you are correct.

[@thewinddb]

The in car footage is great.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Plan to do that more!

[@robertdahse4569]

Been chasing race cars for my whole life, even raced go karts in my youth, really enjoying your videos and learning a bunch

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thank you Robert, Appreciate you watching.

[@jimhailmann7052]

WOW great video, THANKS

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thank you bud, much appreciated.

[@rollrateguy6109]

Great job team. It looked like a completely different car in the B. I think you'll like the 2" offset a lot more on the right front. I typically like a stiffer rf spring than a 700-750 but I move the roll center as far left as I can so the car will travel the same or more on the right front. This also causes a long right side instant center so more consistent camber characteristics are achieved. Great job again though, I know it will be up front soon. As always let me know if you need anything. The same goes for anyone reading this, good luck this season everyone!

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks friend, I definitely was learning what was the issues as I went into that B Main.

[@rollrateguy6109]

@@DIRTRACELIFE My wife and I are moving to Nashville soon as I took a job up there. I hear that Camden is only an hour or so away... LOL

[@meanerkat4339]

Love the videos. I always look forward to the next one.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thank you Meaner Kat, I appreciate you watching

[@landoncoke1469]

Car looked really good in the bmain always good to see you and talk to you

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks Landon!

[@jesseturner430]

Love your videos, thank you for sharing

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

I appreciate you watching Jesse.

[@CherezianRacing]

Good progress jason!

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks Ryan, Hope yall have a great season!

[@charleslivengood7483]

Good to see the car respond to the changes.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

We are making progress Chuck. I was lucky tonight to get some VERY GOOD GUIDANCE on where to focus and I think we can sure make some improvements that will help get us the speed we are looking for.

[@whbcyouth54]

I really appreciate how you Explain why you do what you do. I race a mini stock in North Carolina.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thank you John, I appreciate you watching our videos.

[@dirtfevertv]

Enjoy watching the videos! Keep digging you will get it figured out..

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks Dirt Fever, I sure appreciate you watching as well.

[@nickhoffman5524]

car looked much better each time in the car you will get faster each time out. like that you were running the harry gant line lol

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks Nick, I think I made the "High Groove Harry" move far too late in that race and I really wasn't getting it to work as well as it could have on both ends. I hit that outside brown good three or four times in turn 3 and 4 but man I just didn't have the cohoneys to commit to rubbin that wall coming into 1 in order to get that brown patch that was only about 2 foot wide and because of that I was scrubbin all my speed back off across the black.

[@gregorygolden1296]

Hey Jason, your headed in the right direction for sure. Was wondering if you keep notes on your changes? I always wrote down any changes we did. Track conditions etc. You can tell your a good smart driver, really happy you made gains, learned more about what the car is telling you AND drove it up on the trailer. Great video Jason.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks Greg, Yes I have books on every trip to the track, scale numbers, track conditions, observations, issues, results, etc for the last several years. I never go back to them much but the process of writing it is a way for me to commit it to memory and work out what I have learned from it in my mind.

[@whynotdoitanyways5466]

You need some tear offs. Definitely want the front of the car wider then the rear and i used to run in this class and won several races including track championships. I ran 2” RF 3” offset the other 3 wheels. Would run 4” offset on LR for heat and tighten it up for feature with a 3” on LR

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Great feedback and I sure agree with those wheel offsets as well. Thank you!

[@richardward2352]

good job

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks you Richard.

[@johnmills186]

Back when I was young Halls Tn was a good place to go for races and a lot of racers. Used to be a dirt track somewhere around there. They ran those 292 6 cyl engines and they would scream. Took the heads of a local racer down to Halls to a machine shop to get worked.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Yes, The bowl shape in the field is still there. About 3 miles from where I live down Hwy 88 headed west out of halls. You have been around a while if you remember that because we are talking 1950's and 60's :)

[@johnmills186]

@@DIRTRACELIFE Yes it was in the 60s.I remember they had a high wire fence around that track and I wondered if they really had cars flying that high. They did serious racing.

[@averywood4573]

Use a chain , we have done it , works.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

I am building one now. Probably going to build a preload chain setup.

[@WindRider1]

I really enjoy how you explain everything you do. From first putting the car on the jig to racing this last race. IMHO , and it is an opinion you need to handle better down the straightaway. In others words you need more ponies. All the spring and shock changes in the world aren't going to beat horsepower. As Ole DW used to say, you have got to handle good down the front and back chutes.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Not arguing with you there Keith. I know we have to add ponies as well before we have a complete winning package. We'll get there :)

[@WindRider1]

@@DIRTRACELIFE love what you do Jason. I had to get out. The cost was more than I could handle and I did all my own work.

[@chriskennedy8309]

Do you have a hold down right front shock? On my factory stock I have one and it made a lot of difference

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Yes, The right front is a BSB Gorilla Fist 500. I think I just have too much spring for it and I am overpowering it.

[@fishydubsfishing6516]

Well that was a great thought of engineering there I was a maintenance superintendent in a pulp and paper Mill that was built in the 1930s the equipment was ancient and they wanted to run 24 seven so when the machine broke down that's the type of thinking you had to use I was hoping for a victory I said I could imagine the Outro Orange crush takes the $3000 victory with a tie down strap but it's only a matter of time a car that is that well-built and I watched every video maybe I missed one or two I got to go back but A car that a well-built should be running much much better than that you'll find it

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Thanks, I have to remind myself we have only raced the car twice and it is a process to sort one out and find the speed. I know we can get there, I just want to do it in as few expensive trips to the track as possible :)

[@chevyromans4435]

Removing the rf spacer for drivability should also free the car on entry correct ? Which would be benificial on a heavy/tacky track

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Yes, because you are changing you track alignment of your right side tires but it will have more effect as far as freeing the car up middle off because of being on the throttle.

[@chevyromans4435]

@@DIRTRACELIFE awesome ! Keep diggin! That b main in the final night showed a ton or progress!

[@juniorwhelchel6337]

Glad u made some improvement so does using wheel spacers make your spring rate increase an removing the wheel spacers decrease spring rate

[@rollrateguy6109]

adding a spacer will decrease the wheel rate. if you imagine adding a long bar to the lower and lifting the end of the bar, it would compress the spring more easily because you'd have more leverage. So motion ratio between the spring and the tire is what you're playing with, the further out you put it, the more leverage, the softer the spring will act. There are some other advanced considerations to be made(contact patch acceleration for example), but I feel it's okay to ignore them for our purposes..

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

This is a great explanation and is spot on. Exactly, what I was thinking as well as a way to soften up the RF without a spring change.

[@juniorwhelchel6337]

I definitely appreciate y'alls helpful answers I truly need them 😆

[@juniorwhelchel6337]

Do you post videos ROLL RateGuy

[@rollrateguy6109]

@@juniorwhelchel6337 We’re all in this together! Jason’s the guinea pig trying all the cool stuff that no one else is brave enough to try lol. I just love racing and race cars and the people. Some of the best people I’ve met in my life I’ve met racing!

[@Aaron-vm1jb]

Hey Jason what do you do with your old tires?

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Gave a few away, sold some for 25 apiece. Now with them letting us groove and sipe I suspect I will use them completely up until some future point where they are available again. I had 12 brand new and took 8 to Magnolia. I think I have to try and make these 12 go the whole season based on what folks are saying about availability. Not pretty.

[@Stormchex24-7]

I was wondering if someone could help me with my wheel offsets? I run a metric Monte Carlo when I first bought the car through my ignorance I thought I could buy 4 inch offsets all the way around and just use wheel spacers I was obviously wrong because my rear end is sticking out further than my front end any advice on a good starting point would be greatly appreciated ‼️ also what’s a good way to check if rear end is bent? Thanks!

[@dblr616]

I run 2 inch offsets on both fronts then a 3” LR and a 4” offset on RR in the slick or 3” on a heavy track that’s a 60 inch centered rear… some rearends depending on how it’s jigged the frame may hit a 4” offset in the RR when the car rolls over mine does not hit… look at it like this the further out the right front is from the right rear the tighter the car will be… or vice versa if the right rear is out more than the right front the looser the car will be

[@Stormchex24-7]

@@dblr616 thank you sir I appreciate your advice and this would make sense because rear would get real loose on throttle no matter how much I tried to feather it

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Ok so that must mean you have a 60 or 62 inch rearend because a 58 wouldn't do that. I will assume you have a 60. If this is the case put some 4 inch studs on the front and one inch spacers on both sides. that will get you 3inch offset on the front and with fours on the back you will have it in track down both sides. Likely you will want to run an 1.5 or 2 inch spacer instead on the RF front in some conditions as well. Take two good wheels with no tires on them and bolt them onto the rearend. Turn the whole rearend up on one end on the shop floor. Hold the wheel and spin the rearend. If its bent you will immediately see it as the wheels wobbling in and out as you rotate the rearend. You can do it on the car but you have to use a tape measure and its just harder to so easily see it. John, Find me on Facebook and PM me if needed. I don't want to see you struggle.

[@Stormchex24-7]

@@DIRTRACELIFE I will try this thanks for taking the time I can tell you really love the theory of what’s happening with a Racecar

[@kb3tus]

Do these various videos apply to asphalt cars too?

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

All my experiences have been on Dirt and the last thing I want to do is mislead anyone. I think there are some helpful ideas through out the library of videos that do apply but I will be the first to tell you I'd be lost on an asphalt car. Would probably have a blast learning it but I'd sure be lost starting out.

[@jeremy8169]

Chain down the right front , put the camera looking at the right front with a light.

[@highinthedirt]

second this

[@highinthedirt]

I'd go back to the taller LR spring as well, I think you want the load with that corner extended... maybe more RR rate. scale numbers might look wonky though.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

They may look wonky but if it works then I WANT WONKY :) Seriously, verdict is in on that RR getting more rate. I think I can make the 16" LR work and want to try to work with it some more before returning to the 20".

[@highinthedirt]

@@DIRTRACELIFE do you see enough droop to come off that 16" spring on the track? I know mod stuff doesnt always carry over, but I would think youd want the same load at max droop (that the car sees in the corner). I have a couple 20in springs that are basically brand new since they got outlawed before we could use them. I can send them your way if you want.

[@danamcintyre3565]

One thing nice about running multiple night let's you work on the car and yourself ?

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

Exactly, i had a chance to really think it over Friday and then run again on the exact same track Saturday. Makes a big difference.

[@RichFife]

We didn't like the 20" 100#... the 20" 125# spring worked nicely. Spring pre-loads need to be balanced. Watching the video, you're SS class is similar to our Factory Stock class here in Central NY.

[@RichFife]

Definitely gotta get that Car on the RF with the LR planted... rotate. it'll help with getting into the throttle sooner... we "set" our cars and are back in the throttle heavy while trialing the brake slightly.

[@DIRTRACELIFE]

I sure got some improvement when I jumped from the 100 to the 150 but that doesn't mean a 125 isn't perfect. We are thinking we want to try the 175 on the left as well. It will be some trial and error. One thing we all agree on is focusing on getting the car to get on the RF and STAY ON the RF.

[@dblr616]

Correct me if I’m wrong I don’t run this set up but my understanding Is if your running the 20” softer spring in the left rear aren’t you suppose to preload it?? To get the traction benefit?? So what I’m saying is when your rolled over on the rf and your lr is at full droop your spring should still be loaded (or compressed)3 inches I’ve heard preloading a 20” inch spring 3 inches it will act as a 300lb spring. if that’s the case like how in the video he put the limiter strap on wouldnt you preload it with the limiter strap? I guess I don’t understand is what I’m trying to say I run. A 16” 280 LR and 13” 150 in the RR in my car

[@RichFife]

@@dblr616 we pre-load our 20"-125# 6-7" so our spring measurements range from 13"-14" at static... put the car in a dynamic state and we have 3"-4" of pre-load. Once you find the balance in setup, driver style and track conditions man will you be fast.

[@RichFife]

@@DIRTRACELIFE you're doing good man, you're learning and you're taking everyone on the journey with you. I enjoy the videos... I have a chassis on the jig... and I haven't touched it in months... Anyway, get her on the RF and let her eat.