FINALLY! GREAT Images with my BUDGET Newt - See how I did it!

[@TheNarrowbandChannel]

Tuning and improving a newtonian is really rewarding. When I did mine even the visual aspects of the scope improved let alone the imaging aspect.

[@jeffslade1892]

Collimation is a black art, but just think Herschel had to climb a ladder, sit on the lip of his telescope and hold a hand mirror

[@MrZizilis]

Great job Cuiv, glad that your effort pays off ...it's a wonderful scope when fine-tuned! For anyone interested, below some tips regarding collimation since I own the same scope: - The most difficult part (and the 1st step to achieve collimation) is the positioning of the secondary under the focuser. Our target is to get the secondary mirror perfectly centered vs the bottom diameter of the focuser edge/sight tube & rotated such that it appears as a perfectly round. This ensures that the fov will be perfectly balanced/evenly illuminated (which is very important for AP in order to avoid uneven vignetting and extreme light loss at the corners). - Use a quality sight tube/combo tool to achieve the most difficult step above....a Telecat XLS (adjusted to the correct lenght depending on the scope's f ratio) or similar is perfect - The ideal position of the pupil (in our case the tiny hole of a quality sight tube) when adjusting the secondary mirror placement & shape is at/near the apex (apex = the sight tube's pupil position where, when looking through the hole, the apparent size of the primary's reflection & the apparent size of the actual edge of the secondary are almost the same). Pay special attention to this! - A well collimated scope will have the following 3 diameters concentric as viewed from the Apex: 1) actual secondary's edge - 2) focuser's/sight tube's bottom perimeter - 3) primary's perimeter. - A realy nice trick when trying to optimize the secondary positioning is to FIRST PERFORM THE FOCUSER AXIAL ALIGNMENT (which is the 2nd step of collimation = bring a well collimated laser's dot/combo tool's crosshairs precicely into the primary's center marker) AND THEN USE THIS ALIGNMENT AS A GUIDE TO HELP YOU FINE TUNE THE SECONDARY'S POSITIONING AND ROTATION: Completing the focuser axial alignment will ensure that the reflected edge of the primary is also concentric with the focuser draw tube / sight tube: if the laser hits the primary's center, and if the primary's center marker is accurately centered, then THE PRIMARY WILL BE ALSO CENTERED UNDER THE FOCUSER/SIGHT TUBE! HOW MUCH of the centered primary reflection can be seen from the apex depends on how well is the secondary mirror positioned & aligned!!! Use this last sentence's concept to fine tune the secondary's positioning & make sure to redo the focuser axial alignment-secondary repositioning after every adjustment! Redo the process until you can see all primary's reflection on the secondary and both are concentric, and the secondary's edge is also concentric with the focuser/sight tube! - Finally, proceed with the 3rd and last step of collimation (which is the primary mirror axial alignment), ideally with a quality cheshire and calibrated center marker/triangle/hot spot or by using the barlowed laser technique. ps. All credits for the info above goes to Cloudy Nights forums...a wealth of info there....some great members to help everyone out! Hope this helps! :)

[@Peter.A-A]

Small thing, big impact. Your videos are such an joy to watch. As always. 💪😊

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you Peter!

[@jesuschrist2284]

Another flocking great video ty

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

😏

[@tommyozzy317]

3 nights wasted with this guy and finally got some advice from you and others on social media. Mine came with a badly rotated secondary and also needed to be moved in a little. Not something that comes up on 90+% of collimation videos. Normally youre just expected to mess with secondary tilt and primary. Being inexperienced with newts, i wasnt sure how much the other stuff should be messed with. Also getting my artificial star today so can finally test all my improvements. I didnt expect the laser collimator to give the OK on such a poorly calibrated secondary. Felt like i learned a ton these past few weeks.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep this is what I learned the hard way last time! An OCAL collimator does make a HUGE difference there as well

[@AndreH3d]

I’m on a budget so I got a Cheshire, but using a collimation cap did the trick for me. When the Cheshire arrived my collimation was already good. Took me months to realize the relationship of loosing the locking bolts when I reached the limits and it wasn’t enough, just keep loosing the locks until you’re there, as an inexperienced Newtonian owner I never saw people saying that on 99% of collimation videos

[@zacharyknox3007]

If you take flocking as a euphemism, a very entertaining video. I am, however, happy you got this copy so we could see the process of tuning and the positive result!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep, I think it's very instructive, and why refractors are just so much easier...

[@ntt2k]

Always an amazing feeling when DIY projects work in your favour :)

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

For sure!

[@cosmoscarl4332]

I left a comment about Newtonian collimation but I forgot to thank you Cuiv for all the great content.

[@The_Vinceable]

I'm giddy with excitement for you @CuivTheLazyGeek fantastic to see the tangible results. I honestly can't wait to get my hands on one now.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

It's going to be a lot of tinkering (and I really recommend getting the OCAL!) but fun!

[@The_Vinceable]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek is that the little pinhole collimator?

[@pkwj]

Enjoying the journey with this Newt, great work!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Peter!

[@woody5109]

Amazing perseverance, great job. Glad you did this, I’ve been considering a newt, not now. Moving forward it will be reflector’s only for this cowboy. Thanks for sharing

[@jlecomte0719]

Cuiv the crafty geek 😁

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hehe :)

[@ssrattus]

Conrgats on getting the newt to a good working stage!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!!

[@vicamaral]

Great super job, hope you read the directions on the flocking paper install, need to put 3 to 4 inch sheets and overlap each piece, scope interior expend, that's why they put line on cement walks. no expansion the paper will come loose, cut with razer every 3 to 4 inch's, and paint black were the razer cut. clear skies.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep, got the overlap on, thanks :)

[@astrophoto_andy3335]

I'm in awe of your patience! I finally gave up on my Newt for similar reasons. Mostly happy with my 127mm refractor.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep I understand the feeling for sure...

[@mikewatkins1328]

Amazing flocking video! Thanks for sharing your exploits!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!

[@andyrawlins]

Wow - amazing how much difference it made. That focuser drawer tube looks like a big culprit to me but maybe it doesn't show inside the tube much at the focus you use. Great result and I realise I have 4 holes in my tube left over after I fitted my Baader Diamond Steeltrack that really need covering up.

[@PeterWillmann-l2s]

First. Thanks for the great instruction and review videos. You have such exuberance and joy that is contagious. I learn something new from each viewing. As for your further customizing this reflector, I would be extremely interested in seeing additions and further adaptations that you might make, so you have my vote. I have been looking at this scope and the Orion version. However, I don’t know if I have your courage to fearlessly pull things apart to achieve collimation. The collimation sounds crazy. I have a 12” DOB which is a piece of cake to collimate. Just a bear to move out on the deck to view.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yeah collimation is truly hard, I'm going to make a video about the collimation lessons I learned!

[@kennetknudsen7042]

happpy to see the paint worked going to make a cap for the camera when i get the rasa , and use the paint on the cap. and some other bits in the image train.

[@AndreH3d]

So nice to see you sucess! I have an Apertura 6” f4 and mine produces way less gradients, probably because my backyard is free from stray light, I have a neighbor that has a sensor and his light turns on a few times a night but it’s fairly far, but I never noticed any issues, I don’t even use the beanie in the back… even tho here in Orlando is B 8-9…. This shows how much stray light you have! Also because of you I ended up buying a C8 for future hyperstar, got a 6.3x reducer and I’m ready to image as soon as I get a second counterweight… also I have a vintage 300mm canon lens that I’m thinking could become a better guide scope, mine is a 30mm f4 SVBONY that is 120mm FL… too small to guide the giant

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep, without stray light, none of this is an issue!!

[@alexandervarakin9478]

I have the scope and added a mask around the mirror and it helped - now I have stars like with my RCs. It would be interesting to see if the BlurXterminator would fix the star shapes in the corners.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep, I'll be doing that next video ;)

[@scorpianspirit5124]

Nice job on the upgrades Cuiv. I think however if I decide to purchase a Newt, I will look for one that I don't have to flock with ! ;-) Cheers...

[@petesastrophotography]

Awesome job👍It might be a lot of work but the results speak for themselves. Lovely image of M13, the increase in resolution over my 100mm refractor is very noticeable even on a youtube video. I'm very nuch a refractor guy but am getting more and more tempted by the dark side, especially at this price.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Pete!

[@michaeledmonds3027]

Hey Cuiv.....Another great video. It appears that you had to practically rebuild this inexpensive fast newtonian scope, but now you're getting good results from it. Can you recommend a similar scope with better factory construction? I think this is an excellent way to get a longer focal length while retaining good speed. Thanks, Michael

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

You are absolutely right - and I'm thinking of changing the focuser meaning that from the original only the mirrors, tube, and rings would remain haha! Now you are asking this question at exactly the right timing because FINALLY, someone is making a somewhat budget but well build scope with the same specs: The Apertura Carbon Star ( bit.ly/4a76LI1 ) - I really hope to test that one once it's released if I can get my hands on one.

[@hurriyetpek77]

expected a 'it actually flocking works' lol... great work btw cs mate

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Darnit, missed opportunity!!

[@hurriyetpek77]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek lol 🫶

[@andrewwareing7291]

And everytime he said "flock" I giggled because I'm so very mature.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Better to be a big kid :)

[@deep_space_dave]

Excellent work! Just shows that sometimes you have to put in some "sweat equity" to save some cash 🙂Enjoy your new Newt! Clear Skies!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

You get what you pay for...!

[@lionvillelion]

Flocking good job. None more black.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!

[@vampolascott36]

I use a Cheshire for collimation and it works very well.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep that works well!

[@franckmalterre6087]

Doing same thing with my old GSO 200/1000. Did not have the chance to test it on the sky yet.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Fingers crossed!

[@MrGp3po]

I'm wondering if an extended dew shield would help the reflections.

[@avt_astro206]

Great Video, I can see Why astrograph Newtonians are Different from visual. Typically they have a Larger Secondary Mirror with faster Focal ratio and Shorter Tube. To Make sure The light path is All The Way back for camera to reach focus. Larger Secondary mirror would typically illuminate The Chip well and Cause less vinetting. Im using an F5 Newt with 130mm aperture, with my small Sensor!

[@KhanGhilzai]

Amazing

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!

[@dumpydalekobservatory]

Great job Cuiv one thing that's always bugged me with Skywatcher Newtonians is the drawtube being silver, I've never understood their logic as to why they'd do this especially with an imaging telescope. I upgraded the focuser on mine for a low profile one & the difference was huge plus the diffraction spikes looked better & more even as previously there would always be an extra spike. The spider vanes on mine have never been much of an issue but maybe it's more forgiving at F 4.8 but I'll definitely paint the thumbscrews that hold it in place. Look forward to the next stage clear skies!!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep the focuser is weird - at least it doesn't quite intrude into the light path!

[@syberand]

It is like watching a geeky cover of the song, paint it black :) Which compression ring to you use between camera and scope. I think the standard one is known for giving tilt.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

The compression ring is something I want to change! That said the tilt is minimal because the CC has such low tolerances!

[@A0111.]

Hurrah :) I worried that something wrong with its mirrors - glad it's not the case.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Doesn't look like it at least!

[@FAstroHD]

Great flocking video mate!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you so flocking much!!

[@cosmoscarl4332]

Sena make those telescopes for Skywatcher as they do for Orion.

[@michaeldonaldson4334]

Looking forward to the mirror mask. I have this scope, and have been considering a mask also.

[@astrostufftomtrubridge7915]

Flocking is good, always have a butt plug to stop any dust going inside..🤣🤣seriously though, as ever Cuiv, great advice👍👍..

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

hehehe :) Thanks!

[@astrophotons5594]

Just a tip for the stars looks like the focus tube is intruding causing the stars to have that angelic look

[@astrophotons5594]

You can cut the focuser or get a focuser that doesn't intrude

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

It's actually the mirror clips!

[@astrophotons5594]

@CuivTheLazyGeek really yikes dam so if you cover it u loose aperture right ?

[@lavers_1]

Excellent channel Cuiv! I'm trying digest all this incredible information with your vids. Question, what coma corrector do you use on your Newtonians? Thanks for all the effort you put into this!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

The 150P already comes with its own CC (and focal reducer for F3.5!)

[@astrophotons5594]

I was having same issue i hope it works for me

[@mighytsirus]

Cuiv, if your comma corrector protrudes into the tube then your secondary mirror is most probably still too far from primary. At least it was the case with my Quattro 150. Once I (finally) correctly positioned secondary, the focuser tube and CC were just shy of entering the main tube.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Interesting, the secondary is perfectly at the center of the focuser tube (validated with OCAL) so I'm sure it's well positioned... Maybe another story of tolerances?

[@A0111.]

... or the primary mirror is too far ;)

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

@@A0111. That's actually an interesting remark - I could adjust the collimation screws so the primary mirror assembly is closer to the secondary

[@davidemaino7868]

Great job! Just a quick question: what do you use for taking flats? I mean your source of uniform light. Thanks.

[@astroshooter1960]

I had an 200mm f/3.9 Orion newt, and it was very frustrating to work with. Maybe I should have waited and kept it? After seeing your video, it may have had a chance. I use my Takahashi mostly. Once in a while, I will haul out the C-9.25. I think I'm just getting lazy. Thanks for your tips on getting your tube dark. I've flocked only 2 telescopes, a C-5, and and friends 30''. One extreme to another 😂

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Better to be lazy for sure :D

[@astroshooter1960]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek 😄😄😄

[@klaussfreire]

That's so interesting. I've shied away from flocking mine even thouugh I've suspected that I need to for a while now, mostly because the shadow, while visible in LRGB, is not such a big issue in NB imaging which is what I do the most with it. So I'm wary of disassembling everything, mostly because I have my focuser working flawlessly, and I'm not sure I can put it back together as perfectly as it is now. Replacing the spider vanes sounds like a good mod though. Looking forward to see how that goes.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep I completely understand the feeling Claudio!

[@setnes]

I have chased an issue like this before. I ended up putting my telescope on a table and shining a light at it while looping dark frames. In my case the light was coming from the connections around my ZWO OAG and filter drawer. I blocked most of it with an elastic hair band.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Ooooh I hadn't thought of the filter drawer. Was that the Gen 1 of the ZWO filter drawer?

[@setnes]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek I didn't know there was a second generation. :) I have what looks like the Gen 1 version. The light leak came from the connection between the OAG and the filter drawer though. It is unclear which of the two products should receive the blame.

[@huf67]

5:30 ... That seems like a lot of flocking work

[@LogansAstro]

Very useful video for those with Newts and it definitely looks like your efforts paid off and it was very rewarding. But it does beg the question, why can't the companies making these Newtonians have these inexpensive changes done to the scope parts from the outset - I get that they are making the scopes relatively cheap for the consumer but using black painted parts and flocked tubes seems like an easy and cheap fix for the company during manufacture or am I missing something here. Clear skies

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

You're not missing anything. For something like $300 more, Skywatcher could deliver an amazing package, preflocked, with light leaks fixed, well collimated, with a decent spider and primary mirror mask, and with a decent focuser. But they choose not to.

[@tubedude54]

Waiting for your review of the new Seestar S50 since I know you will get one for review before we ever see them...

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I hope so! We'll see!

[@davidwildman1866]

also a curved vane spider will get rid of the star spikes 😀

[@vicamaral]

Yes the S spider vanes.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Going with straight CNC machined vanes for now :) I could always add one of those batwing shaped apotizers to them later!

[@DrMiddy]

I’m glad I found your channel. I have its bigger cousin, the 250P F4, and I just recently started getting the weird circle in my images, exactly like you had. I was going down the path of trying to dim my light box because I’d read somewhere that too short an exposure for the flat fields can cause issues like this (My flat field exposures are a fraction of a second). After seeing your videos, though, I will also do a full alignment, because I also can’t see the mirror clips. One thing I’m confused on is the moving the secondary a lot closer to the primary. Wouldn’t it have a limited movement range if you want to keep it centred under the focus tube?

[@astropatostar]

We need a collimation plugin for NINA🙂

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hahaha yes!

[@bengterlandsson7921]

Seems like a great result. How much have you spent for these modifications?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Up to this video around $30?

[@jasonpatterson8091]

In addition to the mirror clips, do either the focuser tube or the coma corrector protrude into the light path? I had trouble with that and wound up having to do surgery on my focuser to get it out of the light. (Completely different, but equally cheap, Newtonian.)

[@GreenJeepAdventures]

Using the same scope, I only experience intrusive light while taking darks. Very faint, but its there. It could be the lights from my mini computer. I was able to remove it by covering my scope with a black trashbag. Just a quick fix for now, but your video has given me a some ideas to work on. Thanks. Quick question, was one pack of the flocking paper enough, or did you need more?

[@astrojim4330]

Very interesting! I got this telescope and i have exactly these issues... Great Job! And thanks for your advices. Where do you find your "black bag" installed behind the telescope? Many thanks!

[@vicamaral]

A black shower head cap works mate.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Or several black shower head caps, they tend to still let light through with just one!

[@philippwagner1330]

Hello Cuiv! I just want to say thank you, for your nice and easy way to explain how Astrophotography works. I have learned so many things from you. I started with Astrophotography back in March this year and I image unguided with a RC8" at 1604mm focal lenght. Is there a way to send you a stacked .fit file from M51? That would be my way to say thank you. And Clear Skies!

[@davidwildman1866]

the bevel edges of the mirrors need a permanent black marker

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Oh right even the primary mirror edges should be blackened?

[@Seanjones1990]

Quiv is the mirror offset a little to the side when looking down? i cant seem to make it collimation looking like a perfect circle

[@jiangzeliang8340]

Great job Cuiv. I am also suffering this weird circle issue. I have done a lot of flocking, but not successful. What I found is when the adu is higher, the circle will appear more apparently. Can you compare the average adu (pixinsight-statisitcs) of the new perfect M63 with the old one?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I'll check and do some more tests, thanks for letting me know!

[@astrobath]

Hi, Cuiv! I have a Newtonian 203/1000, is there a better/higher quality alternative? Should one upgrade to a refractor etc? What would you recommend? I do not like its being that big, but want to make images of galaxies etc.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

F5 Newts should be a bit easier to handle! But yeah what high quality Newts are there? Not sure! ONTC?

[@astrobath]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek So you suggest to stay with the Newtonian and there is nothing better? Are other systems slower?

[@JVRost]

I did not tempt fate under the sky with my GSO 150/600 and immediately flocked it and inked all its parts, now I saw clearly that I did all this for good reason. It remains to mask the main mirror, but honestly this is already for gourmets)

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

You were absolutely right! In my next video about the Newt I will be adding a primary mirror mask, and replacing the spider :)

[@jmm3194]

​@@CuivTheLazyGeek please do it step by step so you can discriminate the effects of the spider and those from the mask. Thanks fpr your videos

[@vicamaral]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek And 3 heavy duty springs for the primary mirror, it holds collimation better, the mirror is heavy, and make sure not to overtighten the 3 mounts rubbers that holds the mirror in place, to tight and will pinch the glass. clear skies, and if you don't like spikes stars, get the fins that looks' like an S instead of straight line fins secondary holder, the s fins eliminates spike stars.

[@dbakker7219]

Cool scope for a good price, but how does it compare to your trusted c6 hyperstar?? A comparison soon ? ..

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

It will come at some point!

[@dbakker7219]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek 👍

[@donboy-createdforawe4710]

Why a 6" f/3.45 newt when you have a C6 Hyperstar @ f/2?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

More reach, can use normal narrowband filters, tighter stars, a budget scope on the channel, it's fun to tinker :-)

[@pompeymonkey3271]

Apart from the improved collimation, Do you think the improvement to the background was due to lower internal reflections from the target direction or from the local light pollution?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Likely from the local light pollution - I can almost read a book on my balcony at night, even if the moon isn't out... Probably much less oif an issue for most people

[@pompeymonkey3271]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek Don't forget that the majority of people live in cities where local light pollution might be a (albeit lesser) problem also. Anything that makes gradients easier to process out has got to be a good thing? Maybe there might be a tangible benefit by extending the dew shield with low-reflectivity material?

[@frogliza9977]

May I ask what tools you use for collimating this scope? I'm going to get it and wonder what tools I should buy along side it. I have a 3D printer so I can print a collimation cap at the least

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Collimation Cap + Cheshire.... but I dusted off my OCAL and I HIGHLY recommend one. It made a huge difference in the speed of collimation

[@grandmasteryoda9893]

i got a used r200ss but sad part it come shiped in part and i have no clue how to put it back

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Eeek that's too bad and it defeats the purpose of the R200SS (works out of the box). I hope you can get it to a usable state

[@Hilmi12]

How did you mask the reflective surfaces to avoid painting them? Not like you can choose a brightness mask in pixinsight 😂

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I didn't! I was both reckless and careful at the same time :)

[@Hilmi12]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek on a serious note, worth some research. Thinking of doing this on some filters I have and on the secondary of my 130HNT f2.8

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

@@Hilmi12 Oh wow, filters are something I'm not going to attempt...!

[@Hilmi12]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek I have used paint marker on ZWO filters, really helped with reflections, you would not believe how much difference it makes. But you really need to be careful

[@Kyle_Hubbard]

Is the flocking material humidity resistant? I've heard Japan can be quite humid so I'm assuming so but looking for clarification. I get an average of about 80% humidity more or less year long minus a few weeks of dry weather in the summer.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Probably not! I expect to get a sticky mess at some point, but I'll deal with it then!

[@tubedude54]

80%!? You live in Panama? lol

[@studywithme8055]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek Yeah I was wondering about that too. May I know why you didn't use the musou black for the full inside of the tube instead of flocking, there are also spray can versions of these blacks, which would be a lot faster/easier to apply. I plan on making my 200pds darker inside, so your opinion would be great.

[@luboinchina3013]

M101 not visible from balcony?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

It is, imaging it right now!

[@luboinchina3013]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek Great! I have got bad weather. I've got only 2h with ASI2600mc Pro and L-Ultimate. I haven't received much light though even though I did 10min exposures. I guess f/10 8HD doesn't cut it. Also wondering if my filter is not a bad sample too

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

@@luboinchina3013 Oh wow F/10 will be tough indeed! I'd really recommend the 0.7x reducer on this one (although the way Celestron measures the back focus on that one is weird)... I hope your L-Ultimate is a good sample, but yeah without a spectrometer, difficult to tell for sure...

[@3dtexan890]

Super budget scope, but high dollar mount. The mount probably cost 4 times the scope. Just sayin'.

[@VRzichtbaar]

With all the work done lately your channel name the lazy geek seems wrong🤣

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hahaha it's all work to be lazy in the long term :-)

[@Hilmi12]

The scratches are a feature so you don't have to add them yourself

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Mwahahahaha I love this! It's so considerate of Skywatcher!

[@سبحانخالقالكون-ش3ز]

مرحبا من المانيا

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Germany? Nice!

[@astrofromhome]

Hey Cuiv! Great video! I have a Skywatcher Newtonian and an iOptron Mount too. How do you balance DEC when having the telescope moved so far ahead the saddle? On my rig I cannot move the Newtonian so far to the front that the camera could be mounted downwards in home position. Do you use additional weights in the back of the telescope?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I kinda sorta don't balance and it still works 😅

[@astrofromhome]

@Cuiv, The Lazy Geek thanks! Sounds scary to let it run somewhat balanced only on an iOptron mount. If my small 70/420 APO is sitting 0,5 off balance on DEC on my CEM40 guiding RMS is instantly 0.2 - 0.4 RMS up. 😵

[@romaindechamps457]

So glad! Those scope provide a real joy that in the end a higher end setup won't have :) I've got the spider and disk from Backyard universe and am really looking forward to your review. Did you use a particular light pollution filter on those 2 images? Thanks!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

No LP filter, just UV/IR Cut!

[@andrewweller5119]

for someone who is lazy you really do a lot of stuff haha

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yeah I haven't been lazy at all recently, guilty as charged :D

[@bullshitvendor]

IF you continnue to experience collimation instability over time after your upgrades, changing the center bolt tensioning spring to a stiffer one often helps. Oh, and if the focuser drawtube juts out into the light path where you reach focus, a hacksaw will do the trick

[@GrimArchon]

I hacked about 2cm off my drawtube from my Bresser F5 150mm, with the same CC as Cuiv I was getting D shaped stars.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks for the tip! I'm going with a CNC spider for now :)