Man, this build is gonna be insane when you finish it. I watched the whole series today and I wanna give you some tips and ideas. So, first know that when you start welding the chassis if the car is not "rested" on it's wheels there is a slight chance the chassis will twist, depending on how you weld and where you weld. The doors/trunk might come slightly out of specification, even if they match up and close, they might close "harder". To prevent this, weld with all the doors installed on the car and shut. Also it's a good idea to re-check the chassis specs in the engine bay/trunk after you do all your welding just to be sure everything is in spec. The battery tray will probably rust again, since battery acid is very corrosive. No matter where you put the battery I suggest you model and 3D print a plastic tray (box) for the battery and attach it on top of the metal bay to prevent further rusting. If you plan to go with very stiff suspension or to make big horse power (500+), absolutely buy strut tower reinforcement plates and weld them on, since the strut towers are very thin and they bend easily under certain circumstances. The WRX/STI model also has a rear sway bar on the suspension, which I think you don't have, unless you got one from the bugeye parts you bought. About the wiring harness, I suggest you go with custom ECU, because the stock ECU before 2000MY cannot be remapped. Most of the aftermarket ECU come with all the harness you need for the sensors, fuel and ignition system. You will have to delete all the unnececarry cables from the stock harness and just leave the body/auxiliary cables. Most importantly, keep up the good work, man! Wish you all the best.
@AbnormalGarageАй бұрын
Thanks! I'll definitely have to look into some strut tower reinforcement plates once I get them rebuilt, and yes, I did get a rear sway bar from the bugeye part out. I may look into upgrading it when I restore the suspension components though. Appreciate all the tips and ideas!!