Long-awaited and much needed video !! Big up Lattice :)
@LatticeTraining3 жыл бұрын
There's another one coming on the same topic more or less! :-)
@syindrome3 жыл бұрын
Finally some info on PIP synovitis
@rixdalerheptads15053 жыл бұрын
Yes! I feel this is very overlooked by professionals and they only focus on tendon and pulley injuries
@Thok823 жыл бұрын
Yeah. I've been climbing with some non-specific joint pain & stiffness for 6 months now, which is slowly getting better. My physio recommended light joint stretching for a few minutes a day which seems to help a lot. But it's great to get some more info, have found very very little online otherwise.
@JorgePacker3 жыл бұрын
Yes!! Too quick though.. Could have talked a bit more about time frame for recovery, ice bathing and other methods into more details.
@maginkub3 жыл бұрын
As someone with a history of DIP synovitis I would still like to hear about this one. Everything I can find is about PIP.
@aaronhauptmann869 Жыл бұрын
Great content! I recently felt something in my joint click while using pockets and it’s been inflamed and reduced the mobility. This is the first place I’ve heard this type of finger injury discussed. After using a massage ring on the finger it softens things up and helps me get full rang of motion in the pip joint. Thanks for the great content.
@wingedzebraofjustice60883 жыл бұрын
in a few years, this video's gonna have a million views.
@andrewhford3 жыл бұрын
Nice to learn about joint irritation and treatment. Great video
@Lorem_youtube3 жыл бұрын
As someone who heard a "pop" in their finger earlier this week, this is very timely.
@LatticeTraining3 жыл бұрын
Yikes.... well good luck with the recovery. Take it steady and make sure you're super consistent with loading... avoid those spikes!
@carlosquiroz79223 жыл бұрын
Same here this past week. It was more like a "clack" sound in my case.
@MichaelJones-rs5ce3 жыл бұрын
Top quality video, thanks guys. Would love to see a vid on prevention of finger injuries!
@lukasschalk3 жыл бұрын
This is so well explained!
@MultiXCrunner3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this video!! Im a new climber and continue to have vague discomfort/pain and stiffness in my fingers and everything I found on Google was article after article about pulley injuries but it just didn't seem right. Its obvious from the video it's joint irritation and I can start icing and doing the tendon slides and working on getting that range of motion back! I will share this with my other new climber friends
@vikkilowe96088 ай бұрын
Just found this, and it's perfect timing! Saw my physio yesterday for a pulley strain, but he wasn't confident about prescribing rehab. He said these injuries are just not seen in the general public. So this has been super helpful!
@klawakrokk39892 жыл бұрын
always a pleasure to listen to a professional. Great video! Great guided too
@MeshiMeshi-vu2hs3 жыл бұрын
I am so thankful for injury series. Its so hard to find some information about joint issues.
@fabled.2 жыл бұрын
Just realised i might have a joint soreness instead of a pulley strain since I can't exactly pinpoint the area. I also can't do the full range of motion with the fingers on that hand. Very insightful, thanks!
@06411963 жыл бұрын
Good video ! It would have been nice though to have visual support / scheme of the anatomy during the explanations.
@Wish4Fish2 жыл бұрын
I just recently injured my fingers and this video actually made me feel better about my injury. Taking a couple weeks off and will slowly work my way back. Thank you very much for this video.
@olovmartin3 жыл бұрын
Very useful! Would’ve loved to hear about preventive measures for these injuries.
@MrHattick2 жыл бұрын
Hmmm, at 31:00 you talk about range of movement and that's exactly what has happened to my ring finger after a few months of regular climbing. Good to know it's not super serious and there's something I can do about it! Thanks!
@benrejects Жыл бұрын
Great video thanks very much! Gutted to have injured myself again but really appreciate the content to help get through the time out!
@VelascoFlorencia3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! That was really useful!
@julienmv92722 жыл бұрын
the problem with joints and tendons is that bloodflow is limited so fully resting for a few weeks won't help you as they won't get any nutrients to repair the injury. Tendons get their nutrients when you move them. That means if you want to heal, you need to move those joints and tendons as soon as possible once the accute pain has reduced. Start with little to no load on the injured part and use a range of motion so that little to no pain is experienced. Then slowly build up from there. I would never stop for a few weeks after a simple strain. Just deload and tape the finger properly and slowly build back.
@hyau233 жыл бұрын
Tyler Nelson has argued tendon glides are not that beneficial for healing the finger joints and recommended use of fingerboard instead
@LittleMur4103 жыл бұрын
and?
@hyau233 жыл бұрын
@@LittleMur410 wow, you must have really good conversations with people in real life...
@LittleMur4103 жыл бұрын
@@hyau23 lol, you didnt even finish your thought - and what did he conclude? What method, theory, results did he use or find? You just came to a video and left a half-thought xD
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
So we agree with Tyler in the sense that high frequency tendon glides (30 reps x 2-3 per day) can potentially further irritate the surfaces of the joint and joint capsule of an already irritated joint. We're more suggesting that you think about them as range of movement exercises. Stiffness in a joint can affect its ability to function so restoring the active and passive movement through these type of exercises can be beneficial, the focus should be on improving the movement rather than just repetitively gliding the fingers. Progressively loading the fingers using a fingerboard is absolutely beneficial with almost all finger injuries however it needs to be done in the correct way, as similarly to these simple finger gliding/range of movement exercises, if done incorrectly it can be detrimental to the injury. Hope that helps!
@hyau233 жыл бұрын
@@LittleMur410that's much better, now why didn't you say that in the first place? See above for a better explanation that I would have given by Sheffield climbing clinic
@van1111111112 жыл бұрын
This is an excellent and very informative video! Thank you 🙏
@woodneni3 жыл бұрын
Just another amazing content... I was thinking i had a injury in my a4 pulley but now im pretty sure its just a joint issue... But its taking me 4 weeks without any climb training on the wall or fingerboard and im still not recovered... Maybe one more week and ill back slowly to the wall... Cheers for always share knowledges...
@Sanoi7372 жыл бұрын
I also thought I had a a3 or a4 pulley but his comment about the pain not being very specific in joint pain was spot on my case. May I ask you how did your rehab go afterwards?
@robertobreve8623 Жыл бұрын
I have join irritation in the PIP, thanks for the tips!
@brianwilderspin23373 жыл бұрын
Very interesting but what I really want to know is how to minimize the risk of getting any of these injuries so maybe some best practice advice and if there are any things to avoid.
@stoneplay5953 жыл бұрын
This is incredible, a really nice vid. I ruptured an A4 ring finger pulley in December and have really struggled to get info on this. I was becoming very frustrated with the limited info on this type of injury. I was even told i would never be able to climb again by a specialist! :) Any way, no doubt this will become a fantastic starting point for people in similar shoes in the future. Thank you.
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
😱 yeah the idea of never being able to climb again after a A4 rupture is just not correct. We get most climbers back to full crimping after around 3 months after a A4 rupture. Even in rare cases of multiple pulley ruptures that require surgery (very uncommon thankfully) the climbers are able to get back to climbing. 👍
@javieralejo82808 ай бұрын
Hey, would you mind sharing how your rehab went?
@iitalianii3 жыл бұрын
Great information. Thanks.
@jhy81913 жыл бұрын
Would it be possible for James to address exercises or methods to help with finger osteoarthritis in an upcoming episode? Thanks for the great video!
@chriso19102 ай бұрын
Does anyone else experienced a loud pop without a pulley rupture? Are there any other reasons this sound may occur? 2 weeks ago I injured my middle finger during warmup for whatever reason.. I heard a loud pop and immediate soreness in my A4 pulley region. I already had an ultrasonic exam and everything seems fine. I can load my finger to some extend without paint but it does not feel good enough yet to climb. I do some mobility daily and will also see another physiotherapist next week..
@ashpowell9451 Жыл бұрын
Great info on the synovitis. I'm struggling to rehab mine, it's super annoying. Is it ok to continue climbing on it or should there be an element of rest?
@BIGBORE375HH Жыл бұрын
Thx for the great content! 👍
@carlozuzic26173 жыл бұрын
When is the next video coming out? This is some really good content right here :)
@JaredGGG2 жыл бұрын
This is very helpful! (also i want those khaki orange pants)
@matthew31033 жыл бұрын
Great content! Next video yesterday please 😜
@fredanada3 жыл бұрын
can you please do another one of these but for wrist injuries?
@qweasd91533 жыл бұрын
being suffering from synovitis for 6 month already. I would rather had a pulley injury instead. Synovitis doesn't appear to heal for me
@JorgePacker3 жыл бұрын
Same here 🙋🏻
@Ohdoomed3 жыл бұрын
Forward to 28:30
@Iakel3453 жыл бұрын
Might have helped to have some basic descriptive diagrams to accompany the discussion! I like the detail though, much appreciated :)
@adrienalmaraz8850 Жыл бұрын
I had to stop the climb that I started late (24-25 years old) because for three years I have had joint swelling at the level of the pips of each major visible on the MRI and by ultrasound diagnosed as synovitis ...however despite an ultrasound-guided injection of corticosteroids in each middle finger, the problem never seems to have gone away from my left middle finger and the right one which seemed healed is starting to hurt again after I resumed climbing this year . I have so to speak no more medical follow-up because my official doctor tells me himself that he does not know enough about this field.. so I went "into the hands" of two rheumatologists and several hand specialists. .and the result is not clear. For some, it may result from an inflammatory problem but vague and undefined because everything is OK in rheumatological biology (NSA prescriptions to be taken and bone scan to be done to look for something .....) and for the hand doctors it's purely mechanical (a result of climbing.) but when it comes to the way of dealing with or even knowing if I can still climb or even adopt certain strategies, I haven't learned anything concrete so far. So far I have had various pains which have appeared in both knees, foot and back which suggest an inflammatory problem but nothing on the imaging, no inflammatory schedules or swelling and warmth, only a diagnosis of patellar syndrome for knees. I'm getting a bit saturated in a spiral without a solution where the problems seem to add up as I struggle to practice an activity that does me good at all levels as well as mentally. Inflammatory or not, I have the I feel like my pips don't want to flare up. I am currently in Lyon in France and no real solution. thanks for reading 😉
@chelsearhodes24073 жыл бұрын
Is it possible to have a tear or rupture in your A2 without hearing a pop? My ring finger is acting up. At first it was sore to the touch but not while climbing. And now I can not crimp while climbing without pain.
@livi393 жыл бұрын
Damn interesting and informative. Thanks James and Lattice!
@irenefeng26643 жыл бұрын
I'm pretty convinced I only have swollen and irritated joints, so doing tendon glides is what I'm doing for rehab. But I hear a bit of a clicking (I think it's my tendon?) When I do them in the morning. Do I have an additional injury on top of a swollen joint?
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
It’s tricky to know the cause of the clicking without an assessment however it could be either coming from the joint itself or could be a condition called trigger finger
@frederik00143 жыл бұрын
Another video, about pulleys... Had lots of problems with flexor tendons, mainly in the hand, but there's not much to find about that anywhere.
@d3RrRp3 жыл бұрын
I feel you, I had a knarly forearm flexor/flexor tendon tear a couple years back, my forearm was bruised from my wrist half way to the elbow and I could find 0 info on rehabing.
@davidpleydell35223 жыл бұрын
I've had the dreaded pop from an A4 rupture, but wonder if there are also other causes of quieter less serious pops that can be confused with the pulley rupture pop.
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
There’s potential that you could have what’s called a joint cavitation where the joint clicks/produces a sound however this wouldn’t produce symptoms at the area of the A4 pulley after so the easiest way to differentiate is to assess what symptoms you get after the pop
@javieralejo82808 ай бұрын
Hey, would you mind sharing how your rehab went?
@Xskaface13X3 жыл бұрын
Is it common to see a pulley and a joint injury at the same time? Tweaked my middle finger on Sunday. A2 pulley is sore and the second knuckle is super stuff.
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
It’s common to get associated joint stiffness with a pulley injury. Often the joint isn’t actually injured. It’s important to keep the joint mobile through range of movement exercises whilst the pulley injury heals 👍
@fritzbox67643 жыл бұрын
Too bad there isn't too much to find about those rare extensor finger problems.
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
We do see some extensor finger issues in the clinic such as extensor tendon injury, extensor hood strain or growth plate injuries in youth climbers but just not enough to cover in an over view video like this. More than happy to answer any questions if you want to get in touch 👍
@calumelliot49343 жыл бұрын
My fingers hurt after listening to that!!
@KonKonParty3 жыл бұрын
Are there other stretches for treating PIP synovitis? I've been doing tendon glides and have regained my ROM but still have a thickened PIP joint and pain when climbing. Seems to be a never ending cycle, resting to let it cool down and then climbing and getting synovitis again. Great video!
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
There’s lots of potential factors as to why you might be stuck in this cycle, it’s tricky to know without knowing more information unfortunately. We do find that most PIP issues can be resolved though 👍
@mikhaildorfman35962 жыл бұрын
did you guys ever do a part 2 for this?
@dsorvita3 жыл бұрын
Cool video, maybe some pictures would have been helpful
@taconoc11802 жыл бұрын
I recently heard the infamous pop in my left index. Bit of an odd scenario. Left hand was on a great gaston and it popped when I put all the pressure on it. Maybe I was loading my fingers wrong :/
@eatmykwad2 жыл бұрын
didn't hear anything about ligaments? I recently had an xray on my index finger (last joint) as I thought I has pulled a tendon but the doctor said it looked like a ligament. they x-rayed to see if it had pulled of the bone but it hadn't. Now in a splint but is it worth getting an ultrasound to see what the actual damage is?
@abecarloto11853 жыл бұрын
Talk about wrists next!
@1983alex3 жыл бұрын
Collateral ligament in the next video please
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
We talk about collateral ligament injuries in part 2 so keep an eye out for that 👍
@tunaficiency2 жыл бұрын
Heard a crunch not a pop some slight soreness when I press into the a4 area and some discomfort when I try a half crimp on a surface but not sore generally is this a tear or a strain do you think 🤔
@Hyperuniverse1 Жыл бұрын
Hey my one of my middle finger on my right hand is pointing to the right due to some poorly performed gripper training I did. It was months ago and I just rested it, but every time I try to go do it again, the finger aches again and points to the right, as in being angled to the right where there is blatantly more distance between that middle finger and the index finger compared to the distance between the left hand's middle and index fingers. I already paid way too much just to have it checked by physiotherapists who gave general advice but nothing specific so hopefully you know what I could do, I probably didn't give enough details but I figure you can ask and I'll explain it as best as possible. Would appreciate some method for this. Thanks
@calebsnow69013 жыл бұрын
For pulley strains I understand the “two weeks off from climbing to start” approach. Advice on what a climber should be doing during those two weeks? Light hangs, bands, finger glides, things like that?
@sheffieldclimbingclinic37123 жыл бұрын
If it’s just a strain then during that period you should be aiming to maintain some of your climbing strength through activities such as pull ups, dumbbell work, core work, TRX as well as optimising the movement of the finger through range of motion exercises or finger glides. Keeping fitness up through other cardio activities and working on flexibility is also useful too. In certain cases, some light hangs are appropriate, but we tend to decide this case by case. Hope that helps!
@iangleaves3 жыл бұрын
You could go for a hike. Eat an orange, sing a song
@LatticeTraining3 жыл бұрын
@@iangleaves hahahaha, underrated comment this one :-D
@nmwag882 жыл бұрын
Hi, does h taping help during the immobilisation phase, immediately after a (A4) pulley rupture, or is it just for climbing?
@javieralejo82808 ай бұрын
Hey, would you mind sharing how your rehab went?
@connorbrown3183 жыл бұрын
Any tips on Hyper Mobile Fingers or Double Jointed Fingers. I find my finger strength to be insanely weak compared to others, and my ability to do crimps while not hyper extending really hard (painful or uncomfortable). All I have found was some posts on Reddit and they aren't that helpful. Cheers!
@rootz13843 жыл бұрын
had an injury by being dumb during a warm up and thought it was a pulley. Good to know it was probably just a strain
@ericwilliam8683 жыл бұрын
Hey guys, I've got a quick question about training for power endurance with the crimpd app. If I'm powering out on long routes, I want to work my anaerobic capacity right? Or do I want to work my aerobic power to help balance things out a bit more?
@LatticeTraining3 жыл бұрын
In reality, it'll almost certainly be a blend of both. As you reach failure it's a compound indicator, so in effect, it's not a "single" thing. We can dive in a bit deeper through our assessments (work capacity, aerocap, strength etc) if you need to get a bit more context :-)
@Ghostuka1112 жыл бұрын
Who else is watching this next to a google image of "hand anatomy" ? :)
@TheXeeman3 жыл бұрын
What I want to know is, can you become really strong or a professional climber without ever having joint issues like synovitis? I was talking to another climber and he said it was basically a prerequisite to have synovitis if you want to become really strong or turn professional. Also my ring finger makes a popping sound in the pip joint whenever i fully straighten it out. anyone know what it is? it's painless, just annoying
@paulmitchell53493 жыл бұрын
We are the ape that propels itself by walking and running. There is a remnant instinct to climb. Problematic.