This is some NEXT LEVEL Carpentry - Curved Skirt Board & Bent Lamination Mouldings

[@Chris-hi8gc]

This has to be the most impressive thing that I’ve seen on this channel, so far. Stunning work!

[@spr1334]

This is one of those ideas that crosses your mind briefly before being rejected as a silly idea. Amazing

[@joang.8735]

I love that curved 'skirtboard" on the staircase. I think it's much prettier with-out the trim you applied at the end. I loved it bare, so unusual and graceful, the line. No carpentry experience here whatsoever, just a senior housewife who loves a beautiful home, especially white painted woodwork - so clean and bright and happy.

[@diy-hyrum9842]

Dude! That's just like how a laminant bow is built! Sick!

[@theofarmmanager267]

Excellent work. The old adage (at least here in the UK) is that adding a single curve to a piece increases the time needed 10-fold. Add complex curves (more than 1 curve) increases it 100 fold. In all my years, I’ve found that is a pretty good rough measurement. We are currently trimming out a barn conversion. All of the important trim is in European oak. That means that we can’t think about filler for any gaps and the grain of the oak becomes a real issue. We don’t use steam for this. In many cases, we do steam bend components but that method does have its own issues. Firstly, timber expands very little but compresses much more; you have to understand that and make sure you don’t try and make the timber expand too much. You can’t steam bend accurately as different timbers take different times in the box and all pieces spring back. We laminate our pieces - usually with a band saw as the kerf is much thinner. We over cut and then sand (with a drum sander) to get rid of any blade marks and ensure even thickness over length). And we cut more than we need because pieces snapping on installation seems almost inevitable. Then just build up until you have enough strips. If we are doing a complex curve (like a spiral) then we kerf cut all the pieces except the very thin top piece. Then apply a good quality adhesive (we only use PVA on this as PU could expand and make less than tight layers). To “cramp” everything in position. We hammer in lots of trim nails along the length if the wall is painted. If it is oak panelled, then we have to get very creative with lots of timber spring (long lengths of softwood perhaps 12mm thickness which we then cut to a length so that, to fit in between the lamination and, say, the nearest door jamb or ceiling, you have to bend the timber spring quite a bit. When in place, that spring acts just like a cramp. I hope that helps so,some who might face the same issues.

[@susanportsmore5306]

Thanks! I'm qualified but I've worked alone since college, (I was, let's say past apprenticeship age!😉) so have to think up ways around things as I have no-one to learn from. So it boosts my confidence when I hear time served men, like you, using techniques and get arounds that I've used. Thanks for a bit more knowledge. What area is the barn? (I'm in UK.)

[@theofarmmanager267]

@@susanportsmore5306 I appreciate your comment. We are in a hamlet about 15 miles from Tunbridge Wells. The barn was an old Atcost steel job with corrugated iron cladding which had been used as a packing shed maybe 20 years ago. It’s the standard 100’ x 30’ size although we have put in a first floor. As a result of our LPA being both inefficient and lying (in writing!), we ended up spending £250,000 on legal fees. That took away the cash we had allocated to finish the barn off. So, when we move in (next month) it will be habitable but not finished. That’s fine as it only the wife and I. We have spent about £20,000 on oak to date. About £5,000 on engineering oak herringbone upstairs and the rest on solid timber. With that, we are making window surrounds, door sidings, door frames, some doors, skirtings, coving , picture rail, stair treads and some furniture to end with (in oak and red grand is). We are both very fond of the UK Arts and Crafts style plus the US craftsman style. So, my designs are heavily influenced by those. These days, the amount that I can actually do is limited but a son, who is a very good joiner, is doing most of the work. For the finish, it’s Rubio Monocoat in a smoked oak tint. I don’t know if you have heard of, or used, Rubio, but I’m very happy with it. It costs a lot per litre but you use so little per square metre, that’s it quite cost effective. The A&C/craftsman movements used a lot of fumed oak. I’ve done some but it’s a nasty process of putting open ammonia in a closed space with the timber and waiting for the timber to take on that mellow tinge. For where I want “ebony” accents, I’ve made an ebonising solution (steel wool in vinegar) and “paint” that on the timber; depending on how strong the solution is and how long you leave it for, the oak, or any tannin rich timber, will go from mid brown to jet black. If you want a glimpse, then the son has a Facebook page (Sam Ward) and he has posted a few pictures of the work in progress. If I can help you in any way by just offering something from my personal 40 year plus experiences of hobby woodworking, let me know.. thanks again, Martin

[@susanportsmore5306]

@@theofarmmanager267 Dear Martin, many thanks for taking the time to give me background on your barn. A lovely part of the country. I've heard but not used Rubio, and with fuming and ebonising, fascinating stuff. Urh I empathise, I'm racking up legal fees and iht as I deal with my mum's estate, 2 years and still ongoing. Actually this prompts a question, my dad/grandad were builders and built the estate I grew up on, built early 50's, I'm considering removing all the herringbone to reuse, especially as I found another stash in the loft! Knowing it's set in bitumen, do you think it'd be worth trying to remove? I'll take a look at your son's photos, it all sounds terrific, I too like a&c movement and the US look of trimming out. Has character, unlike all the mdf I get asked for, not a joint in sight! I'm veering away from these jobs as its not what I signed up for and I love timber and hand tools, my dad's and grandad's chisels make me a happy worker! 😊 Hope you get to enjoy your barn soon!

[@theofarmmanager267]

@@susanportsmore5306 thank you for the reply. Worth taking up? It really depends on the condition of the timber and what kind of flooring it is. If it’s solid timber (not engineered), then at least you could sand out any defects. I did that with a very large solid floor in an office building in London. It came out like new. If it’s engineered (with a veneer anywhere from 2mm to 6mm) then your re-sanding is limited by that. I’ve only ever known solid timber that has been laid on bitumen. I’ve only ever had to take up a little bit of that and it was variable. One piece would come up quite easily because it had little bitumen but most were a real pain and it’s incredibly messy. So, for me, it would be a balance of the state of the floor versus the dirty hard work involved. We do use quite a bit of MDF. We’ve just panelled a corridor about 10m long in a Tudor revival style with linenfold, motifs and strap carving through it. Because the panelling was going to be painted, then we used MRMDF but only either Medite or Finsa - it is miles better than the compressed paper you get from the sheds. For the entrance lobby, we are doing pretty much the same style but in oak. For the backing panels, we are using oak-veneered MDF as you can longer get boards 300mm plus wider.

[@mycowboyways915]

I like how you did this in place and not using the form you made for the swoop. You tricked me on that one and I think your way turned out awesome. Love watching your channel !

[@isaiahii6982]

Amazing work man, I love how excited you get about this stuff; I can certainly relate-the reward of doing good work and seeing things come together is an awesome feeling. Pro tip: when cutting the strips, make them the same width as your blade kerf. This way you will be able to only use two pieces of trim and just stagger each piece. If done correctly, it should come together perfect, and the pieces will be a bit thicker and easier to work with. With a bend that subtle, 1/8in strips shouldn't be an issue at all.

[@krnchippy]

I've been doing this stuff for 35 years (20 in London, the past 15 here in Australia). Of course there is normally more than one way of doing things as others have pointed out, but you did a great job, and your positivity and enthusiasm is superb.

[@DrewToner]

Never afraid to challenge yourself. Next time you'll do something different! Keep up the excellent work, and inspiration to all of us!!

[@michaellatour9852]

Man I love this channel. Love the passion for the craft. Keep up the good work!

[@PabloEskimofo]

Looks like one, solid piece that was meant to be there! Couldn’t imagine doing this trick with a wider profile, but this is so cool to know. Thanks for the vid, as always!

[@johnthebimmerman1406]

Ingenious work man. This old house is providing you and John with challenges you would never have in a newer home. A great learning experience, and excellent work as always.

[@adambell2068]

Your arc is much more visually appealing than the original curve in my opinion.

[@michellavertu96]

I did similar projects in the past. I first define the thickness of material for the radius. There is a rule: for soft wood (pine, cedar, poplar, etc.) you divide your radius by 120. Here you had a radius of approx. 30”, so 30/120= 1/4” thick for each pieces. For hard wood it’s the radius divided by 160 > 30/160 = 3/16 in your case. Than with double face tape, hot glue or screws if you have room, you make your solid block. Than you profile it as you need, take it apart after, reassemble it in place with a little sanding. That’s it. You did a great job though. A harder and longer way but well done

[@nickadamson6053]

Am I following what you're saying here correctly, that he could have cut these strips into 1/4" thick pieces to achieve the same result? The softer wood would still bend enough at that thickness?

[@matteberry58]

That's pretty amazing. Congrats Richard

[@SammyNineFingers]

When I have profiles that I need to sand, especially intricate ones, I use a deck of cards to make a negative of the profile and glue sandpaper to it so I can sand that profile evenly. Curves like this I cut the deck in half lengthwise so I don’t dig in to the wood as much, but it makes sanding the profile a lot easier and you don’t have to worry but over-sanding a spot as much. I do furniture, not finish carpentry, but I would imagine the same technique could be used without any issues.

[@bmattern76]

That's a hell of an idea thank you for sharing that.... priceless tips like that take years to learn

[@petercarlsen3462]

Do you have a video or tutorial of this method? Interested in this being I refinished a house of doors with a classic profile on the rails and stiles.

[@curtisblair7618]

Very cool Richard. Awesome job!

[@wcisean]

Good job, I make radius milwork at my shop, I would have made a template of radius and made a solid pc and ran it through molder! But with no molder good job ! I do bent lamination all the time!

[@traviscaudill8945]

A very neat way to make that, but I thought a man with 3 new router tables would've made the skirt oversized and just routed a matching profile onto the skirt board!

[@FinishCarpentryTV]

Haha! We have to match the cap to the historic precedent of the home. But I did try to find a bit close to that as a back up plan if this didn’t work. Could not find one so glad this worked out!

[@mrindependent1]

@@FinishCarpentryTV Are u giving away a table saw? I made a comment and someone replied and claims to be you.

[@mrindependent1]

@@FinishCarpentryTV check the comments on this video. They replied to several people claiming to have something “special”

[@D2O2]

Great job. For that gentle sweep, make your strips equal to your kirf. On the second piece alternate, start with taking the kirf off and then your next strip fills the kirf from the first. Only need two full pieces instead of 4.

[@jackww839]

Super cool. Really clean job👍

[@capitaleyes4942]

That is really impressive. I would've never thought of doing it like that. When you wet it down it looks like that cap was milled out of baltic birch plywood. Well done.

[@dannyt7075]

So great! Thanks so so much for showing this

[@dianecamper1870]

Absolutely beautiful work as always!

[@JM-sz4oi]

Excellent!! Very creative solution. It's rare to see that kind of tenacity and attention to detail. A lot of us could a great deal from you.

[@miguellil12]

Damn Richard it's amazing how we can all learn something new everytime this changes along to me thank you very much bro 🙏 amazing 👏

[@truecourse47]

It was a joy watching it. I realized I was smiling seeing it come together. Fantastic job Richard! Happy for you.

[@ryanchristopher2207]

No doubt that was super sick fabrication for sure.

[@jimskewes8337]

Absolutely fantastic. Great job.

[@spooln30]

A steam box seems like the way to go.

[@garysobczak9931]

Unbelievable!! Great job!!!!!!

[@heystarfish100]

Suhweet job Richard!

[@rackoone]

Ive been theorizing building a curved bridge over a creek on my property in the same way except with 2x4s. It would be a huge pain but I really like the idea of a curved bridge

[@aspees]

You can typically use two pieces of moulding and take 1/8" rips. 1/8" kerf out of one piece and the actual part out the other. I've done this many times on mouldings including a few large curved windows.

[@chrisjohnson6765]

Others have mentioned the glue up using a form, which is how I would do it, since you already have the template…you’ll still get enough bend to hit the curve properly. All the pins weaken the structure and you risk splitting such thin strips with all that hardware. Also, the glue bond is more problematic without consistent clamping pressure across the piece. But whatever works…

[@rickysdrywall5288]

Amazing work as always!

[@detectingohio5614]

I don’t think people are going to realize the difficulties with doing this and making the alternate cuts to make up for the blade thickness on the first cut piece cudos to you for making it happen 👍🏻

[@timrobertson2484]

Not only the thickness but the width as well. The sanding has to happen due to the replacement pieces or ABC so on, so when you sand youll lose width. Alos the piece he cut off should have been the piece he built the laminated piece to with clamps first .. Ive done plenty of curved pieces of materials or even custom crown on older homes..It the absolute best fun.

[@debrascott8775]

Because noone here is as smart or experienced as you? Nahhh

[@tragicallycanadian8317]

I think they are, I mean he explicitly talks about it and shows it. You know, sometimes not contributing is a way to contribute

[@hansangb]

@@tragicallycanadian8317 LOL. True enough.

[@nrcontractor1]

Wow. Very impressive. I really appreciate the effort you put into your work. Watching you work makes me want to be better . Thanks for the inspiration.

[@drewcama2488]

Loved it way easier than building a steam box etc.

[@topknotchtom]

Very well executed. You are justified in feeling a prideful sense of accomplishment.

[@kevinkelley332]

That's impressive. Appreciate your talent and patience.

[@erictremblay7576]

Superb well done good detail god bless Texas and god bless FINISH carpentry

[@kennyshipman7136]

Outstanding technique, thanks for sharing. Seller-Fi

[@scottpaulson1714]

That's impressive and love your enthusiasm with this project.

[@thomasronning9034]

Thumbs up, as always. Maybe use full/finished size panel and route Out profile (2 bits) lot of sanding?

[@kevanjsaunders]

Really enjoyed your work on this job. Appreciative of how you make something visually stimulating simple by breaking it down. This is dope dude.

[@rickcimino5483]

from the thumbnail, I thought it was curved the other way....convex. Still really cool. Thanks for posting

[@MelbourneAlan]

wow . that turned out way better than i expected. cutting a moulding up like that can go wrong incredible fast. if your going to do this more i reconmend the incra ls positioner. you can put that fence exactly where you want it efortlessly .

[@marvincontreras2587]

That’s absolutely amazing 🎉

[@mattzeiner8933]

Something like this is when a small portable bandsaw would come in handy.

[@mikestout9349]

Incredible talent!!

[@weaselfever]

nice drone stuff!

[@tedspens]

Nice job! Now you're ready to make curved handrails and stringers. Same thing, just bigger.

[@kennethlemke9826]

Excellent idea

[@SantiagogranadosR]

Thank you!

[@jbratt]

I kinda wanted to see how the last piece was butted up and fitted including how the cut was made. Thanks for another great video👍

[@alextigera]

Yo! Omg this was definitely another level! Congrats!

[@jamiegibson1010]

Excellent work. Another way would be if you could buy or get someone to shape a router bit to match the profile. Cut out a curved piece of timber then use your router.

[@TheFishingFL]

Fine home building made a good post on Instagram about bending moulding the same way. The way they explained it you can make this happen with just two pieces of moulding basically you rip one down into 1/8” strips and your second piece you take a blade off first and then continue ripping that piece into 1/8” strips.

[@GDOG520]

Maybe it's Brent 😂😂😂 he's checking if u work is up to par!

[@corypatrick9916]

Thank you for making this video

[@xavytex]

I only did this once. For an arched window casing. 1x4 MDF. I ripped the casing in 3. It was a tad stiff. But it worked. I cleaned everything with a belt sander. Lots of squeezout. I think if you have several of these to do you can probably get away with ripping the profile in 3 or 4. Ripping 17 pieces is a bit much.

[@metrobill175]

amazing work!!

[@markaddison1679]

Damn great job Mr.Bendymen

[@mrindependent1]

Took a lot of patience… great work brotha

[@robertrohr3990]

Excellent craftsman with great tools and what a finished product!

[@tommycollier9172]

Amazing job

[@kalc1f3r]

Beautiful!

[@texasfossilguy]

if you had the router bit you could run a curved profile using a template. Thats how Id try it and use a guide bearing on the plywood template.

[@jeradmiller4575]

Some of your best work right there! Amazing job!

[@mikeprytherch8875]

Simply awesome

[@robertbamford8266]

Great to witness enthusiastic learning! I was wondering about designing the swoop. Looked like the distance from tread edge to top of swoop was about the same for the “top” step and the steps where the swoop straightened out.

[@billj5645]

Hmmm, that looks really familiar. :D It worked out very well.

[@rebadaddy]

That was Fantastic ! You had my full attention. Thank you for sharing your skills with us.

[@amusegelee]

Excellent Craftsmanship !!

[@jeffchandler5520]

When the house finally comes down that one piece will still be standing

[@amarjitbatchu308]

You gotta get a tape thats in mm when it comes to very fine work like this.

[@ComteSt.Germain]

The lamination process is really neat. I'm curious why you didn't take the curved profile and simply use a router to cut the coping profile onto a piece of poplar that would fit the curved shape?

[@johndeleonardo9133]

Get a 12 ft section of 3 inch or 4 inch metal pipe cap the bottom. Then about 12 inches up I drilled small holes around the the pipe at a even 12 inches then I take write and run it in a hole out the other side and keep going back and forth in random holes so it forms a web. Then I add water to the bottom about 11 inches. It don't really matter you can't over fill it because of the drilled holes it will level it there. How ever when you stick your trim or molding in the web of words will still anything from sitting in the actual water. You can either start a fire and stick the bottom in it or clamp a torch or two to a board aimed at the bottom. If you don't want to fill the holes and make the web of wire. You can just get small squeeze clamps or clothes pins and clamp them on the inside of the pipe around the upper edge. That's a cheap steamer

[@startupadmin540]

Really nice work! I watch another KZbin channel, NS Builders, thought you might be interested in watching how they used similar principles to build an elliptical staircase ☺️ -Best wishes!

[@michaelplays2449]

Great job !!!!

[@reyrey90_60]

Ever since I started watching the Chanel I never look at trim the same

[@FinishCarpentryTV]

That is awesome!

[@reyrey90_60]

@@FinishCarpentryTV finish carpentry replied I can now do anything in life😂

[@jamesmckibben3214]

Really nice solution

[@johngaspar4425]

you jumped the shark on this one.

[@hungryarch7319]

THAT, my friend, I AMAZING

[@timothymccarty4373]

That's awesome I would have never thought to do that I appreciate you sharing that

[@martingasca6735]

Gran trabajo bro, una prueba más de que nuestros maestros carpinteros eran unos fuera de este mundo 🌎, aún sin las herramientas adecuadas en esa época, saludos!👍

[@joegutierrez4197]

Amazing work!!! Thanks for sharing!!! Blessings!!!

[@streetkombativesystem4704]

F'ing LOVE IT!

[@davidscalise7799]

Very cool... love your channel

[@donfedor6549]

That was amazing …. Awesome job!!!!

[@gerryhartung736]

You could saw xtra long strips, apply glue, clamp them to arc of template, then run the router to profile desired, without router fence.

[@Wolf-yw7en]

Awesome work mate.

[@BigJohnson1566]

Slick work👍

[@giulius7176]

Great tip!!!

[@erichsh58]

They use the same concept to build grand pianos at the Steinway factory in Astoria (Queens), NYC.

[@tylercameron4295]

i know the feeling @6:59.. who needs coffee when you get butt puckers like that to wake us up :D nice work on the trim details!

[@torridice]

Very cool!

[@keithcunningham884]

Outstanding

[@se7515]

Nice skirt.