This is some NEXT LEVEL Carpentry - Curved Skirt Board & Bent Lamination Mouldings

[@spr1334]

This is one of those ideas that crosses your mind briefly before being rejected as a silly idea. Amazing

[@jasonbaker3498]

I do many projects in the yachting industry as far as woodworking is concerned. We do a lot of curved trim installations such as this. Mostly in varnished teak or mahogany. Do much of the same with bent laminating, aslo use steam bending sometimes as well. I use blue tape and hot glue blocks of wood to it for clamping instead of nails for each layer, hot glue holds quite well. Also make a lot of bending molds from pvc boards, for gluing off site.

[@SammyNineFingers]

When I have profiles that I need to sand, especially intricate ones, I use a deck of cards to make a negative of the profile and glue sandpaper to it so I can sand that profile evenly. Curves like this I cut the deck in half lengthwise so I don’t dig in to the wood as much, but it makes sanding the profile a lot easier and you don’t have to worry but over-sanding a spot as much. I do furniture, not finish carpentry, but I would imagine the same technique could be used without any issues.

[@bmattern76]

That's a hell of an idea thank you for sharing that.... priceless tips like that take years to learn

[@petercarlsen3462]

Do you have a video or tutorial of this method? Interested in this being I refinished a house of doors with a classic profile on the rails and stiles.

[@chuck5085]

Both sides of my family come from woodworkers. I have enjoyed it all my life. I'm 70. This is Inspiration! Thank you.

[@theyard6958]

Sanding Tip: As a shipwright, I have sanded many curves. Hulls, bulwarks, handrails, moldings, etc. Tip 1. One of the things many of us used most frequently for fairing a surface was structural foam. Any rigid foam will do, (such as insulation) for instance, I would bend the foam in the shape of my curve( if needed), and apply a layer of tape to hold that shape, then I used self adhesive sand paper on the "sanding or fairing board". Tip 2. This one is more for small detailed areas with a curving profile face like what is shown in the video, Still using foam, Cut a piece that is say 8" x 2" x as wide as your trim. Cover the "trim" with a tight layer of Mylar tape (Scotch tape). Also protecting all surrounding surfaces. Wax isn't really needed but it help, so I would wax the tape, then I mix up a semi hot batch of fairing compound (Bondo) then quickly apply a thick layer on to my foam, and pressing and holding the foam still, ( taping it into position when able) and waiting for it to harden. Next remove the foam casting carefully, so as not to damage the shape, remove the tape from the mold, trim it to desired length and then using a grinder or an edge sander, clean up the casting. lastly put some adhesive sandpaper tightly to the cast surface and you now have a perfect abrasive cast shape. Some time the shape we are sanding changes but the profile still works. Cheers!

[@rstevehole]

I do a lot of bent lamination for furniture. You might find it easier to deal with the connecting joints by laminating into a form instead. You already cut the template for the base board and it would work perfectly for a form. The offcut from the template can be used as the negative press for clamping the inside of the curve. That avoids the pin nails and gives you blank that you can cut your 45s with like straight stock.

[@daboo123]

When it comes to upping my trim game, you are the only KZbinr I've found that has given me tricks and methods that I can actually use in my own work. Thanks for being so good at what you do.

[@brettwalden6343]

I didn't expect you to cut and install it the way you did. I was expecting you to glue it all up on your template using heaps of clamps than cut and fit it to the space. Well done looks good

[@doofusmaguilacutee4998]

I thought the same thing.

[@anthonymcroberts2760]

Thats the proper way to do it , laminate the pieces around the template but leave them long to compensate for it springing back when the clamps are removed, doing it around a form you can sand it with it flat on a bench and both ends can have a 45 degree mitre cut on to them.

[@bobripkey3924]

That’s the ideal way to go, but you have to remember that he’s a mobile finish carpenter (save the garage tools). I believe interior space may have been an issue for setting up a table to do the laminate glue up. Plus,he wanted to challenge himself and see if it could be done this way. Excellent results for a difficult solution.

[@clintprice2123]

This is where Richard shines above all the others out there. John did a great job filming this too. I look forward to seeing the piece cut and the remaining section fitted in place. I expect nothing less than perfection. Outstanding job as always!

[@abuzz5395]

It blows my mind how fearless you are standing right over that tablesaw blade with no safety glasses on.

[@Chris-hi8gc]

This has to be the most impressive thing that I’ve seen on this channel, so far. Stunning work!

[@theofarmmanager267]

Excellent work. The old adage (at least here in the UK) is that adding a single curve to a piece increases the time needed 10-fold. Add complex curves (more than 1 curve) increases it 100 fold. In all my years, I’ve found that is a pretty good rough measurement. We are currently trimming out a barn conversion. All of the important trim is in European oak. That means that we can’t think about filler for any gaps and the grain of the oak becomes a real issue. We don’t use steam for this. In many cases, we do steam bend components but that method does have its own issues. Firstly, timber expands very little but compresses much more; you have to understand that and make sure you don’t try and make the timber expand too much. You can’t steam bend accurately as different timbers take different times in the box and all pieces spring back. We laminate our pieces - usually with a band saw as the kerf is much thinner. We over cut and then sand (with a drum sander) to get rid of any blade marks and ensure even thickness over length). And we cut more than we need because pieces snapping on installation seems almost inevitable. Then just build up until you have enough strips. If we are doing a complex curve (like a spiral) then we kerf cut all the pieces except the very thin top piece. Then apply a good quality adhesive (we only use PVA on this as PU could expand and make less than tight layers). To “cramp” everything in position. We hammer in lots of trim nails along the length if the wall is painted. If it is oak panelled, then we have to get very creative with lots of timber spring (long lengths of softwood perhaps 12mm thickness which we then cut to a length so that, to fit in between the lamination and, say, the nearest door jamb or ceiling, you have to bend the timber spring quite a bit. When in place, that spring acts just like a cramp. I hope that helps so,some who might face the same issues.

[@susanportsmore5306]

Thanks! I'm qualified but I've worked alone since college, (I was, let's say past apprenticeship age!😉) so have to think up ways around things as I have no-one to learn from. So it boosts my confidence when I hear time served men, like you, using techniques and get arounds that I've used. Thanks for a bit more knowledge. What area is the barn? (I'm in UK.)

[@theofarmmanager267]

@@susanportsmore5306 I appreciate your comment. We are in a hamlet about 15 miles from Tunbridge Wells. The barn was an old Atcost steel job with corrugated iron cladding which had been used as a packing shed maybe 20 years ago. It’s the standard 100’ x 30’ size although we have put in a first floor. As a result of our LPA being both inefficient and lying (in writing!), we ended up spending £250,000 on legal fees. That took away the cash we had allocated to finish the barn off. So, when we move in (next month) it will be habitable but not finished. That’s fine as it only the wife and I. We have spent about £20,000 on oak to date. About £5,000 on engineering oak herringbone upstairs and the rest on solid timber. With that, we are making window surrounds, door sidings, door frames, some doors, skirtings, coving , picture rail, stair treads and some furniture to end with (in oak and red grand is). We are both very fond of the UK Arts and Crafts style plus the US craftsman style. So, my designs are heavily influenced by those. These days, the amount that I can actually do is limited but a son, who is a very good joiner, is doing most of the work. For the finish, it’s Rubio Monocoat in a smoked oak tint. I don’t know if you have heard of, or used, Rubio, but I’m very happy with it. It costs a lot per litre but you use so little per square metre, that’s it quite cost effective. The A&C/craftsman movements used a lot of fumed oak. I’ve done some but it’s a nasty process of putting open ammonia in a closed space with the timber and waiting for the timber to take on that mellow tinge. For where I want “ebony” accents, I’ve made an ebonising solution (steel wool in vinegar) and “paint” that on the timber; depending on how strong the solution is and how long you leave it for, the oak, or any tannin rich timber, will go from mid brown to jet black. If you want a glimpse, then the son has a Facebook page (Sam Ward) and he has posted a few pictures of the work in progress. If I can help you in any way by just offering something from my personal 40 year plus experiences of hobby woodworking, let me know.. thanks again, Martin

[@susanportsmore5306]

@@theofarmmanager267 Dear Martin, many thanks for taking the time to give me background on your barn. A lovely part of the country. I've heard but not used Rubio, and with fuming and ebonising, fascinating stuff. Urh I empathise, I'm racking up legal fees and iht as I deal with my mum's estate, 2 years and still ongoing. Actually this prompts a question, my dad/grandad were builders and built the estate I grew up on, built early 50's, I'm considering removing all the herringbone to reuse, especially as I found another stash in the loft! Knowing it's set in bitumen, do you think it'd be worth trying to remove? I'll take a look at your son's photos, it all sounds terrific, I too like a&c movement and the US look of trimming out. Has character, unlike all the mdf I get asked for, not a joint in sight! I'm veering away from these jobs as its not what I signed up for and I love timber and hand tools, my dad's and grandad's chisels make me a happy worker! 😊 Hope you get to enjoy your barn soon!

[@theofarmmanager267]

@@susanportsmore5306 thank you for the reply. Worth taking up? It really depends on the condition of the timber and what kind of flooring it is. If it’s solid timber (not engineered), then at least you could sand out any defects. I did that with a very large solid floor in an office building in London. It came out like new. If it’s engineered (with a veneer anywhere from 2mm to 6mm) then your re-sanding is limited by that. I’ve only ever known solid timber that has been laid on bitumen. I’ve only ever had to take up a little bit of that and it was variable. One piece would come up quite easily because it had little bitumen but most were a real pain and it’s incredibly messy. So, for me, it would be a balance of the state of the floor versus the dirty hard work involved. We do use quite a bit of MDF. We’ve just panelled a corridor about 10m long in a Tudor revival style with linenfold, motifs and strap carving through it. Because the panelling was going to be painted, then we used MRMDF but only either Medite or Finsa - it is miles better than the compressed paper you get from the sheds. For the entrance lobby, we are doing pretty much the same style but in oak. For the backing panels, we are using oak-veneered MDF as you can longer get boards 300mm plus wider.

[@jrave5000]

Drink every time Richard says "dialled in". Impressive stuff! Always a joy when you find a customer who's willing to pay for the extra few miles...

[@chris560]

I'm wasted... 🤣

[@mycowboyways915]

I like how you did this in place and not using the form you made for the swoop. You tricked me on that one and I think your way turned out awesome. Love watching your channel !

[@davekeeley8759]

Great work Richard, I did one few weeks ago almost exactly the same size and slope, I used Kurf method which I learnt from kitchen installations from the curved corner parts of plinth on kitchen islands, I used to have to buy the bent plinth ends at cost £120 each corner then they started sending in a flat box kirf cut for £20 each so they mush have got fed up of steaming the plywood, love the videos, send Zak Bagin in for the ghosts.

[@michaellatour9852]

Man I love this channel. Love the passion for the craft. Keep up the good work!

[@adambell2068]

Your arc is much more visually appealing than the original curve in my opinion.

[@myhermitlife]

Beautiful work. 😍

[@JonnyTsunami1]

It’s clear how much pride you take in your work. The dedication to get everything 100% right is admirable. Been watching your channel for a few years now, continue to be impressed. Good work Richard!

[@stevenfoust3782]

Patience is a virtue for a trim carpenter! Very satisfying.

[@DrewToner]

Never afraid to challenge yourself. Next time you'll do something different! Keep up the excellent work, and inspiration to all of us!!

[@timothycreasy2161]

I bet that bag of tips and tricks for your work must be getting real heavy boss. You are full of them ! Nice job

[@GanjHooligan]

That is amazing, i didn’t understand what you meant at first but when i saw you ripping the strips i was like no way! That’s really cool!

[@jackww839]

Super cool. Really clean job👍

[@krnchippy]

I've been doing this stuff for 35 years (20 in London, the past 15 here in Australia). Of course there is normally more than one way of doing things as others have pointed out, but you did a great job, and your positivity and enthusiasm is superb.

[@VCGConstruction]

Super cool process, thanks for sharing Richard!

[@isaiahii6982]

Amazing work man, I love how excited you get about this stuff; I can certainly relate-the reward of doing good work and seeing things come together is an awesome feeling. Pro tip: when cutting the strips, make them the same width as your blade kerf. This way you will be able to only use two pieces of trim and just stagger each piece. If done correctly, it should come together perfect, and the pieces will be a bit thicker and easier to work with. With a bend that subtle, 1/8in strips shouldn't be an issue at all.

[@wcisean]

Good job, I make radius milwork at my shop, I would have made a template of radius and made a solid pc and ran it through molder! But with no molder good job ! I do bent lamination all the time!

[@joelw6215]

Just watched this while I waited for my firehouse sub. Great job. You had a real mellow tone. I liked it. Like a bob ross vibe.

[@odie8320]

Loved the video and I love learning new methods, so thank you, but if I were doing it I would find the router/shaper bit that matched the profile of the moulding and use the template to cut the whole piece out of a wider piece of lumber, like a 1X8 (probably doubled up and glued to match the thickness) and once I had the shape fitting perfectly I would use a fenceless router table to route out the profile. I imagine you wouldn't need a huge shaper to make that profile as the moulding is quite small, and I know Richard has a router that can handle the job because I've seen him do raised panel wainscoting. Yes, I'm aware that my method involves a ton of wasted material and requires a new tool accessory but I prefer it that way so that if I wanted to make that profile in the future, I know I could. When it comes to how Richard made his rips on the table saw, I don't agree with eye-balling the rip size and constantly moving the fence; it seems like a lot of extra time and effort to do something that won't give you perfect results. I, personally, would set the fence 1 kerf width away from the blade then run 1 whole piece of moulding through to get my first set of strips. Then I would move the fence to accommodate ripping exactly 1 kerf width off the bottom (or top; whichever side you started ripping against the fence) and run a second piece through, then move the fence back to exactly 1 kerf width away from the blade again and run the second piece through until I had my second set of strips. This method only requires 2 pieces of moulding, 3 fence adjustments, and will provide perfect results.

[@diy-hyrum9842]

Dude! That's just like how a laminant bow is built! Sick!

[@RussWilsonII]

VERY INTERESTING! Loved every second of that! Loving this series, my man!

[@stevehites8795]

You impress me every time I watch one of your videos

[@matteberry58]

That's pretty amazing. Congrats Richard

[@Steve_Wojo]

Holy Crap ! Richard. That looks sensational. I can feel your excitement from here.

[@michellavertu96]

I did similar projects in the past. I first define the thickness of material for the radius. There is a rule: for soft wood (pine, cedar, poplar, etc.) you divide your radius by 120. Here you had a radius of approx. 30”, so 30/120= 1/4” thick for each pieces. For hard wood it’s the radius divided by 160 > 30/160 = 3/16 in your case. Than with double face tape, hot glue or screws if you have room, you make your solid block. Than you profile it as you need, take it apart after, reassemble it in place with a little sanding. That’s it. You did a great job though. A harder and longer way but well done

[@nickadamson6053]

Am I following what you're saying here correctly, that he could have cut these strips into 1/4" thick pieces to achieve the same result? The softer wood would still bend enough at that thickness?

[@curtisblair7618]

Very cool Richard. Awesome job!

[@kevinlucas8437]

I would of steam box bent it with template trim to fit !! Never would of thought to it that way !!! Ultra patient !!!

[@PabloEskimofo]

Looks like one, solid piece that was meant to be there! Couldn’t imagine doing this trick with a wider profile, but this is so cool to know. Thanks for the vid, as always!

[@siphirath84]

This is one of the coolest things I've seen.

[@theyard6958]

Hey brother! it looks amazing and I see in the newer vid's that the house is coming along beautifully. Keep it up! oh yea, I was going to tell you that we used isopropyl alcohol to make the colors pop for previewing the work. I was taught back in the day that we did this because it dries really fast, wont effect the glues(generally), and the minerals in regular water can discolor some woods. Yea, water in general is likely safe,heck we have all used spit once or twice too. hahaha! I just felt like sharing some info that was passed down to me by some amazing shipwright finish carpenters. I love the videos and the work. Your pranks and jokes make it pretty funny sometimes too! Cheers Bud.

[@D2O2]

Great job. For that gentle sweep, make your strips equal to your kirf. On the second piece alternate, start with taking the kirf off and then your next strip fills the kirf from the first. Only need two full pieces instead of 4.

[@joang.8735]

I love that curved 'skirtboard" on the staircase. I think it's much prettier with-out the trim you applied at the end. I loved it bare, so unusual and graceful, the line. No carpentry experience here whatsoever, just a senior housewife who loves a beautiful home, especially white painted woodwork - so clean and bright and happy.

[@dianecamper1870]

Absolutely beautiful work as always!

[@capitaleyes4942]

That is really impressive. I would've never thought of doing it like that. When you wet it down it looks like that cap was milled out of baltic birch plywood. Well done.

[@Homerbub]

Very well done Richard! I love your passion for quality.

[@Sans_Solo_]

The laminated cap moulding looks great! Nice detail

[@nrcontractor1]

Wow. Very impressive. I really appreciate the effort you put into your work. Watching you work makes me want to be better . Thanks for the inspiration.

[@martinjurovic8314]

Incremental fence, gauge the sawcut and use a spacer the same thickness to read the numbers the same on the fence to mirror the cut.

[@anonymousanonymous-tw3wm]

Thanks!

[@truthdogschell8473]

It’s absolutely stunning I love that detail. Great work.

[@JPGuay]

Outstanding craftmanship ! Well Done !

[@kevinkelley332]

That's impressive. Appreciate your talent and patience.

[@jimskewes8337]

Absolutely fantastic. Great job.

[@anonymousanonymous-tw3wm]

Thank you so much Richard , I have learned so much from you.

[@johnthebimmerman1406]

Ingenious work man. This old house is providing you and John with challenges you would never have in a newer home. A great learning experience, and excellent work as always.

[@T.E.P..]

this project has been an amazing watch ... and it's exciting to be a fan and see these opportunities and challenges coming your way more and more. You get the results and take us through the methods. You guys do a superb job with everything. Hope your weekend is a perfect one!

[@scottpaulson1714]

That's impressive and love your enthusiasm with this project.

[@garysobczak9931]

Unbelievable!! Great job!!!!!!

[@dannyt7075]

So great! Thanks so so much for showing this

[@frederickschmidt3547]

Very Cool! Totally stealing this!! I did something similar, but it didn't have a round profile.

[@sparx2391]

Great video, Nice job, looks really nice

[@markkramer2908]

YOU are a Master Craftsman Richard. WOW! Your determination and eye for detail is just unbelievable. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@alextigera]

Yo! Omg this was definitely another level! Congrats!

[@thurlravenscroft2572]

Very nice. You sir, are a master-craftsman!

[@brandonyoung6423]

I don’t comment on stuff really, but I’ve been watching your vids for a long time now and just had to say this is some really impressive work man.

[@JM-sz4oi]

Excellent!! Very creative solution. It's rare to see that kind of tenacity and attention to detail. A lot of us could a great deal from you.

[@susanportsmore5306]

That is so impressive, I've only ever kerf cut to bend. Love this alternative way. I've done laminate work but never on moulding. Thanks Richard!

[@heartwormskillcats8357]

That is ingenious skill at work.

[@donwilliams3626]

Nice execution of the time honored tradition of bent lamination. This looks like a good operation to use your thin kerf insert.

[@rickysdrywall5288]

Amazing work as always!

[@lolaottinger3038]

It was awesome! You have every reason to be proud of the work that you and John do.

[@mrindependent1]

Took a lot of patience… great work brotha

[@hdvictoryford5329]

That tech is a keeper. You can use that in so many ways.

[@kevanjsaunders]

Really enjoyed your work on this job. Appreciative of how you make something visually stimulating simple by breaking it down. This is dope dude.

[@heystarfish100]

Suhweet job Richard!

[@galenfowler8453]

Very nice! It’s nice to see someone willing to do the detail it takes for perfection.

[@mauriceryton]

There is a reason they hired you to do this job. Master at work.

[@rackoone]

Ive been theorizing building a curved bridge over a creek on my property in the same way except with 2x4s. It would be a huge pain but I really like the idea of a curved bridge

[@weaselfever]

nice drone stuff!

[@topknotchtom]

Very well executed. You are justified in feeling a prideful sense of accomplishment.

[@ryanchristopher2207]

No doubt that was super sick fabrication for sure.

[@truecourse47]

It was a joy watching it. I realized I was smiling seeing it come together. Fantastic job Richard! Happy for you.

[@Sparrowhawk1962]

That was very impressive. I know you're a man who takes pride in his work but that was above and beyond. I wish i had your skill. 👍

[@salvadorsepulveda6415]

Excellent Craftsmanship 👍

[@mikestout9349]

Incredible talent!!

[@johnmccarthy6686]

One of the best videos I’ve seen yet, from you, or anyone. Great skill and an amazing result. I’m learning so much from watching your content. Thanks for sharing your talents!

[@MelbourneAlan]

wow . that turned out way better than i expected. cutting a moulding up like that can go wrong incredible fast. if your going to do this more i reconmend the incra ls positioner. you can put that fence exactly where you want it efortlessly .

[@tuffguy007]

I am surprised you used this method. Looks beautiful.

[@briansierzega]

Damn…that looks awesome man!

[@jeradmiller4575]

Some of your best work right there! Amazing job!

[@erictremblay7576]

Superb well done good detail god bless Texas and god bless FINISH carpentry

[@aspees]

You can typically use two pieces of moulding and take 1/8" rips. 1/8" kerf out of one piece and the actual part out the other. I've done this many times on mouldings including a few large curved windows.

[@traviscaudill8945]

A very neat way to make that, but I thought a man with 3 new router tables would've made the skirt oversized and just routed a matching profile onto the skirt board!

[@FinishCarpentryTV]

Haha! We have to match the cap to the historic precedent of the home. But I did try to find a bit close to that as a back up plan if this didn’t work. Could not find one so glad this worked out!

[@mrindependent1]

@@FinishCarpentryTV Are u giving away a table saw? I made a comment and someone replied and claims to be you.

[@mrindependent1]

@@FinishCarpentryTV check the comments on this video. They replied to several people claiming to have something “special”

[@miguellil12]

Damn Richard it's amazing how we can all learn something new everytime this changes along to me thank you very much bro 🙏 amazing 👏

[@jbratt]

I kinda wanted to see how the last piece was butted up and fitted including how the cut was made. Thanks for another great video👍

[@martingasca6735]

Gran trabajo bro, una prueba más de que nuestros maestros carpinteros eran unos fuera de este mundo 🌎, aún sin las herramientas adecuadas en esa época, saludos!👍

[@detroitdiy]

That looks amazing.

[@robertrohr3990]

Excellent craftsman with great tools and what a finished product!

[@TheFishingFL]

Fine home building made a good post on Instagram about bending moulding the same way. The way they explained it you can make this happen with just two pieces of moulding basically you rip one down into 1/8” strips and your second piece you take a blade off first and then continue ripping that piece into 1/8” strips.