Finishes for ironwork - blacksmithing for beginners

[@doghousedan1]

I'm just getting in to blacksmithing at 60 yrs old . I enjoy your videos and appreciate the knowledge you are giving .

[@BlackBearForge]

Glad to help

[@landroveraddict2457]

As a Brit living on the coast hot dip galvanising is the next best thing to working in stainless. For functional items like gates and fences if you don't galvanise it you are setting yourself up for a lifetime of sanding and painting. I had my fill of working on rusty gates helping my grandma out as a boy. It sucked and seemed like I had to do it every year, each time the gates would get a little bit thinner. It was a life lesson in futility but I'd be happy to do it again if i could see her once more.

[@reigninoel]

Excellent info as always. I may have commented on this before, but I like your added focus on safety and particularly fire safety as compared to a number of other smithing channels. In blacksmithing, as with many other metal-related crafts, you are literally playing with fire, so taking every opportunity to teach people how to not burn their shop/house/garage/whatever down will get a thumbs up from me every time.

[@zackthomas5707]

I second this one for sure. Absolutely

[@loul7239]

I use the homemade beeswax, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits concoction. The current batch is paste consistency and I keep a rag in the container with it. The rag is impregnated with the paste and all I have to do is use the rag. The other finish I use that you didn’t mention is a baked on oil finish. I use canola and apply it to hot steel. Then I pass the piece through the flames of the forge. I let it cool a bit and then do it again. It’s like seasoning a cast iron pan.

[@Jodybaker]

Thanks

[@JacksonDunnoKnows]

Nice. Might try this. I use bees wax itself, or the linseed by itself. I've heard a few make that concoction. For cookware I use coconut oil or ifni have it rapeseed. They don't rancid. My drinking horn came with instructions that were near the same. No heat of course. 🍻

[@joachimsingh2929]

How do you make the beeswax? From earwax?

[@brianadamsjr2664]

I've used that canola oil method on some grill tools I made, it works great! Just have to reapply now and then, also much like a cast iron pan.

[@deankay4434]

Just a word as he said, true bees wax was used for a long time in even toilet sealing rings. Now it is a petroleum based product, so bee warned. I enjoyed this video very much and like many occupations that are physical, mechanic, blacksmith, baseball pitcher we have are own parts wear out. Elbows is the most common and take it from a guy who had this. Call tennis elbow, the longer you wait, the longer it takes to quit hurting after surgery to relocate the ulnar nerve around the elbow. I subscribed, you should at least give it thumbs up, then subscribe. Great shop and nice setup. I am watch more! Certified auto ASE Master since 1978 - Retired!

[@GeezNutz]

New hobbyist here; It seems like every time I come up with a question while working, you've made a video on it. Much appreciated!

[@herrero4270]

As always, an unpretentious, straightforward and very illustrative video from Black Bear Forge. Thank you.

[@dwayneburbridge3283]

Yes, spontaneous combustion does happen - happened to me! I left a balled up cotton rag in the metal bowl that I had the linseed oil in ( on our cement sidewalk). Got called away for a phone call then the kiddo woke up hungry, etc. About 2 hours later, a gardener knocked on my door saying that he had put out a small fire in the bowl. Thank goodness it was outside, in a metal bowl, and on a cement surface.

[@IslandMetalForge]

I use Butcher block conditioner.. its beeswax, carnauba wax and mineral oil.

[@jasonblume2707]

I didnt even finish watching and im so glad you made this video..... I have been struggling with keeping tool restorations and hot rod work free from rust rust rust..... up hear in the NY coast! Thanks for sharing!

[@BlackBearForge]

Glad I could help!

[@S8tan7]

I do like the tidbits of fire safety, always very useful to know how to not cinge my face off

[@VirginiaBronson]

Being a fireman sure is an asset of skill sets to bring to blacksmithing. And I appreciate your use of science. I'd love to try a bunch of the experiments you've shown. I wish I could. It looks like so much fun and intellectual challenge to put to useful items.

[@josephchlewicki8005]

Excellent Tutorial, Sir ! The varieties and Hazards ! Recently - I did a 50/50 of B.Linseed and M.Spirits to coat the underbelly of my Pickup Truck, then 1 wk later - I applied a Teflon/Silicone Polymer with Hexane(thinner) to cover the “cured” Linseed, because of all the salt - here in Buffalo Ny hoping….it holds up - this winter. Loved your video👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thankyou - for putting this together!

[@speedsterwinston]

I like this dude a lot. Seems very and down to earth.

[@failgg]

for paste wax, i use minwax because that's what the hardware store has. apply it to hot metal and wipe off the excess and let it cool completely. apply more, let it dry, buff with a cotton rag. repeat until it glows, like polishing shoes.

[@tomcoles1289]

I've used linseed oil a lot for much of my iron work but I have also used gun bluing . Birchwood Caseys super blue was the best but where I live is now unavailable. I found the gel bluing was the next best thing. I followed this sometimes with a coat of flat lacquer for interior things like hooks and handles. So far it seems to hold up and the bluing leaves a very nice natural looking finish.

[@donaldnorcalprohandyman-bu4362]

i use basically a hodgepodge of my wife's candles that she no longer uses. i have the mix wax in a small cast iron cauldron that sits on top of my gas forge so it will be melted when i go to use it and thats also the time i add any old candles that she leaves me so they can all mix as one. i think sometime ago i added beeswax to it as well! thanks for the great videos John keep them coming.

[@tonypore5846]

Thanks for the tips,I really appreciate the firefighters point of view on rag disposal, I've stayed away from those finishes for fear of combustion. Keep up the great work.

[@dspecht40]

I have to say thanks for all the videos you continue to put out. I came back to this video from one you posted today.

[@THLGargamont]

That's funny. Rob Gunter was my blacksmithing teacher.

[@rogergadley9965]

When I was young and lived on a cattle ranch, my dad used wax mixed into hot kerosene to coat ironwork. We used shop rags to apply the stuff. We also used it on farm equipment, the painted and non-painted surfaces of tractors, hay mowers and even pickups. I was usually in charge of “waxing” the tools and farm equipment. The process is dangerous, very much so, and absolutely not appropriate for use in an enclosed space, like a shop. It must be applied outdoors. To prepare, pour about a cup of kerosene into an old saucepan or anything in which you can heat the kerosene. Put it on a low burning stove (I usually used a camp stove, not the greatest idea). A hot plate would work well, but my dad always insisted that I be far enough away from the shop, garage or house that the fumes wouldn’t drift into corners and become a fire hazard. Do not build a campfire to heat the kerosene. I was far away from electricity. Shave (or grate - grating never occurred to me) about a quarter cup of wax (or less) into the kerosene and heat it up. DON’T boil it. Just get it hot enough that the wax melts. Stir it until the wax is melted and mixed well, then get it away from the heat source. It sort of doesn’t matter what kind of wax you use. Sometimes we used beeswax if it was cheap and readily available; other times we used canning paraffin (my mother did a lot of canning so there were a lot of pucks of wax around). The beeswax mix took days to dry (the kerosene, at first sort of oily, dried away within hours). The paraffin mix seemed to dry that day. Unless you’ve used too much wax, the wax seems to go away as well. You’re left with a very, very thin protective coat of wax with maybe a tiny amount of kerosene still in the coating. The mixture must be applied pretty warm (or hot). If it cools to much, the wax and kerosene will separate and become impossible to spread. We never did the process in winter.

[@onanysundrymule3144]

Thankyou Sir. You used the term Kerosene and Parrafin in you text, are they one and the same thing please? (I am from UK and know Parrafin, but we never see Kerosene as a product over here). Or maybe your Kerosene is what I know as Diesel fuel? Kind regards.

[@Munxcub]

I do bees wax exactly as you showed here. Another food safe option I've done is canola oil, applied black heat, little smoke. Comes out like a properly seasoned cast iron skillet. Holds up to being outside not too bad.

[@ScottTurnerformeindustrious]

Wonderful tutorial, thank you!

[@jimhayes3225]

I'm 62 next Sunday and I have my dads flip top shop rag can that closes automatically. It's great for oily rags.

[@austinroberson8]

Nice tutorial. I love that dragon knocker too, that thing is too cool. I have seen several other tutorials and some people don’t mention spontaneous combustion. That’s actually something I have witnessed myself. Again good info thanks!

[@carlmanx1680]

Thank you so much for the info! I have been searching for more information on coatings for a while now! I would also like to add that as far as an inexpensive source for bee's wax is toilet gasket's! They can be found at almost any hardware store and they have approximately a half pound of the stuff and usually costs less than $5 US. Thank you again.

[@jimmysblacksmithing462]

Good day, as always excellent video and instruction. Your personality is very tough to beat. The way you explain things your honesty and sincerity and integrity, are just at the top.! Thank you for sharing with everyone your expert opinion. As well as the importance of the fire safety. If it's OK, I may add that's a beautiful dragon knocker you made. Keep up the great work as always, stay well and have a beautiful day. Jim

[@louislarose4023]

Thank You for this excellent review of metal finishes. I have used gunsmith cold blue on various tools with good success. My local gunsmith has also used his hot blue tank for folks that want to have certain items finished that way. Then there is the parkerizing finish that they used on a lot of old military rifles. The metal finish that interests me most is the Brown finish they used for hundreds of years on muzzle loading rifles. ( The 'Brown Bess ' musket got it's name from the brown patina.)

[@jasonscott7803]

A product from Australia called Lanotec, it's a lanolin based product developed here in Australia and the test results were outstanding in corrosion protection, wear resistance and quite a few different parameters, Lanotec out performed other products and substances commonly used in protecting of metal finishes and surfaces and in most cases by a considerable margin. I'd highly recommend you try this product for yourself and as a bonus it's also great for the skin on your hands and makes a great skin and hand treatment for all those gnarled rough hard working hands but in all seriousness it's the best anti corrosive protection I've used on unprotected metal surfaces, I also use it to lubricate all the working parts on tools and machinery and as it's non conductive you can use it to protect the windings on electrical motors, ignition systems and the uses are endless. In one of the tests done on wear of chains in the loaders and unloaders on the wharves and docks that unload and load cargo ships, the chains lasted 3 times as long when coated with Lanotec compared to the ones covered in grease which had previously been best practice. 👍✌️

[@benslockandkeylocksmithing9839]

Thank you for all the info. Great videos! Appreciate the warning about spontaneous combustion.

[@chrismallory8292]

I’ve been using marine grade stainless steel to forge outside items! I’m in love. The recipients of my projects love the stainless silvery color too.

[@chrisdonner2910]

Very nice! Do you passivate?

[@amgironworks9091]

My two favorite finishes even though they stink when applying them is WD-40 and the spare hydraulic oil I have. Both finishes when completed and dipped in water just seem to bead up and fall off. I apply them with a black heat. Generally have the piece cold throw it into my gas forge for about 10-30 seconds. Depending on size. They way I tell if it's hot enough is after dunking said piece is how much smoke is created. Also afterwards I take a rag and wipe off any carbon that's built on the surface. The hydraulic oil seems to leave a real black finish while the WD-40 seems to leave a blueish black color.

[@thomasgarrison3949]

Great video, thanks for the info, especially the fire safety with oil rags.

[@spudhut2246]

exactly what I needed.... thank you

[@johnbrown4442]

I like the paste wax and boiled linseed oil mixed together and put on hot metal.

[@ReadyUpGo]

You offered a lot more than the topic required and every bit was well presented and informative. Thank you. I’m your latest scriber. 🤓

[@dimboolabladeworks7927]

G'day Mate , new to your work , but awful glad to have found your channel (i'm old and new to tech ) my main fire place tool finish is the dirtiest , nastiest diesel sump oil 2/3 rds and cotton seed oil 1/3rd and for every gallon made add a cup of carbon ( graphite powder ) put a hot bar into the mix to pre heat the oil and stir it well before dipping what you wish .. holds a lovely dark coating for years .. glad to have found you , cheers!

[@richardthorpe8889]

Really helpful video. Thanks and look forward to seeing more of your work.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

Great bit today. Thanks my friend.

[@thingmaker3]

Firefighter?!? Awesome! THANK YOU!!!

[@xxxclampgodxxx5511]

I use to have a power coating shop. There is so many different powers all colors candy finish it’s really nice. I still do small parts at home with power coating. Eastwood.com sells a small power gun for at home use and You can use a toaster over or a home oven. But now the oven u will cook in. I also add linseed oil to the Johnsons paste wax it flows a little easier and smother. Ok thx John. Another good one. Thx for sharing ....paul

[@TMatt007]

Thanks for the info. I just ordered a gun and starter kit. I have a welding rod oven that would never be used for food that I could use. Never thought I could powder coat myself. I've paid to do it for years.

[@theo78151]

Linseed oil-drenched rags can ignite spontaneously, so never simply throw them away. A lot of fires have started that way!

[@chuckbailey6835]

@Danger Bear only if you want to evict them from the neighborhood

[@stanervin7581]

Rutland's stove polish. Great for out in the weather items. Think it is basically beeswax and lampblack softened with a little bit of kerosene.

[@heatherwinter2726]

Great advice !

[@jezohare3013]

Thank you for your great tutorial

[@johnbrown4442]

I also used 1964 and earlier pennies, for the copper and soaked them in vinegar. That gave a nice antique patina for the metal.

[@TheGeekiestGuy]

I have to say- I just stumbled on your channel but I'm very happy with the information that you're giving to folks like me. I appreciate you and thanks for the info. I know I've gleaned a bit of it on my own but it's nice to see another person that's willing to share said info. Happy holidays.🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾

[@BlackBearForge]

Happy holidays

[@Rick_Bagnall]

I liked the opening sequence where you panned over the finishes. It reminded me of Star Wars. Very nice!

[@SpecialOrder_937]

“ 2 years ago in blacksmith shop far far away “

[@couchforgecompany1134]

Great info as always, Thanks John. I made up a batch of your shop special sealed it up in a mason jar. Just need to get to work so I can try it on something.

[@donstephenson9474]

Wonderful video John. Especially appreciated the Fire Fighter's perspective. Great Job!!!

[@gilbullock8842]

I enjoyed your presentation on protecting the finish on iron work. As you said, anyone who has done iron work, probably has their own favorite finish. My favorite is RENAISSANCE WAX which you may be familiar with. It is a micro-crystalline wax that goes on easily and dries hard almost instantly. It provides excellent protection and is even used on museum pieces. Although it is imported from England, it is readily available on line. It may cost more than the more common items but a little goes a long way so for smaller items cost should not be an issue. Thanks for your excellent and informative presentations.

[@bentoombs]

That clear powder coat sounds interesting I didn't know they could do that that's awesome. I like your special sauce I I'm going to have to make some to try I have all the ingredients already. I just like my trusty boiled linseed oil when you burn it on that stuff is tough

[@joshcombs7669]

I use a ton of different ferric chloride acid finishes and I do some cold blueing that turns out nice on smaller pieces.

[@TheBestGytax]

this is why I like your videos. you get into the details.

[@alluringskull1679]

Very informative

[@andrelozier5008]

Great video. Its nice to know what can finish a project. Big thumbs up John!

[@lo5042mh]

Sometimes i blacken small items in my coalfire. To do this, put some fresh coal on top of the fire (this will smoke). Heat your work in this smoky fire and rub it with an oily cotton rag.

[@leperejoe1536]

This video is really helpful. Thanks.

[@adamlester6606]

I found if you add shaving of bees wax to paint thinners and leave in a sealed tin or shallow jar for a few days it becomes a paste for which seems to give the benefit of bees wax without the excess to gather dust and dirt 🙂 i keep bees so its all i have used so far but now looking into other things to try too

[@bc65925]

I ordered some Sculpt Nouveau "Black Magic" patina when I saw it used at ABANA and they sent me some of their Metal Oil with the order. I really like the Metal Oil finish and the black magic is great for making your whole piece look the same. I forgot, they also sent me some of there durable two part finish that I have not tried yet, but it can be applied over the metal oil along with other finishes can be applied over the oil.

[@EduardoSVA]

Thanks, John, very useful! Unfortunately, I won´t find many of those products here where I live...But my recepie is to soak the forged pieces in vinegar for 24h, than I paint then with a paint named as Hammerite, usually in black. I woud love that it came without color, because the forged iron gets such an amazing finish! Greetings from Brazil!

[@JamesKain]

The best thing and most durable is duracoat! Made to resist scratching and chipping. Designed for firearms. The only place it's done that on any of my firearms the muzzle where it keeps getting hit by the blast. And even still you're only missing a very small piece. I'm talking less then 1/16" or less. Can't beat that!

[@rsteen78]

Thanks a lot for this! I've never managed to consistently get a good finish with linseed oil but I thought your paste wax example looked good so I went out and bought a jar... And it works perfectly every time! Great stuff.

[@BlackBearForge]

Glad I could help!

[@madeinsweden7776]

I like best the looks of pure wirebrushed surface.For things being placed outdoors needing some rustprotecting I use raw linseedoil applied when hot and then cold.Raw linssed oil penetrate better than boiled.Only downside it takes some time to dry.

[@GaryForgingOn]

Thanks for the options. When I was young and living with my parents someone did something with linseed oil and balled up the rags and set them on the shelf in the garage and they burst into flame. We walked into the garage and found it on fire but still on the shelf. We got it out but it could have been a lot worse.

[@marshall4759]

Thanks John for another great class. Good advise on rags. I have known two people who had serious house fires because of rags in the garage.

[@williamgarnett8697]

That recipe I found in an 1898 book called a “Cyclopedia of receipts and remedies” , the Lord Knows where it is now! It claimed to give rust free performance on steels in moist saltwater environments for sure to last six months. I can back that up. Whilst is began a word working hobby all I could afford were “antique” tools which were basically the stuff I used in the fifties with my grand dad. Couldn’t afford to rejapan everything I had then I came across your recipie. I’ve stored tools in wooden boxes for over twenty years and NOTHING ever rusted. Just like cosmoline, works great but, a bitch to get off.

[@Uncle_Bucks_Forge]

Enjoyed the video. Many options.

[@johnjude2685]

As a beginner I found it a challenge to keep working on forge for several jobs as also doing my finish work, So after forge work now I trying to do my finish after reheating my work in my toaster.

[@Cary_Glenn]

I use an acrylic floor wax, used to be called future floor wax now it is called pledge floor wax. Gives a nice finish and can be applied cold. It works well for indoor products. For items that will be outside or in a bathroom I use a varathane spray lacquer to protect the item.

[@goshnodo]

John, another phenomenal video. I have a family recipe blend of beeswax I use to finish wood pieces but never thought to throw Nuts and Bolts Etc in it. Your videos have sparked some really good ideas in my mind for some upcoming projects, thanks for the info keep the videos coming and if you're ever in Alaska look me up. Thanks

[@BlackBearForge]

Sounds great!

[@PBS-nm1uu]

great info thanks for it please keep them coming.

[@billsiegel1783]

I haven’t thought about finishing up the peace, very good info.

[@shifty3453]

This is a great video. I usually always use wax if not boiled linseed oil. I remember once I had had a bad day and was waxing some work I was not very happy with and was trying it too hot I lost a lot of fringe that day...

[@brettsayers7768]

Very helpful John, you covered a multitude of finishes and explained their uses well.

[@garretttaravella8349]

By far the best video on KZbin explaining Finishes! I'm in the process of restoring an old Antique Trap. I'm going to opt for either the linseed oil or Johnson's Wax.

[@herbievanbeveren1314]

Very nice (like always). Thank you for sharing [For the EU citizens. Mineral spirit is terpentine/turpentine/white spirit]

[@valsforge4318]

Once again some great info, thanks John

[@yevrahhipstar3902]

Tannic acid is a good treatment. Forms iron tannate and seems a more stable compound than iron phosphate. Pure gum turpentine costs about four times the price of mineral turpentine, but smells SO much nicer.

[@billwoehl3051]

My friend who is an autobody repair man told me about OSPHO years ago, and he also told me about POR-15, a ceramic paint that is really hard when it dries, great for the undercarriage and frame of your vehicles.

[@BlackBearForge]

I had not heard of ceramic paint before. Thanks for the tip

[@billwoehl3051]

@@BlackBearForge your welcome John. POR-15 only comes in black as far as I know.

[@picklesnoutpenobscott3165]

Thank you! From a beginner.

[@cindym4224]

Thanks so much for the useful advice. I had many forged hand-hooks that had been lacquered and then rusted (bad storage on my part) I cleaned then up with lacquer thinner and lots of rubbing with steel wool. I then cleaned a second time and sanded and cleaned with water & soap. I reheated the hooks a bit and put on a wax finish. They look great and I am happy that I can just reapply down the road.

[@OuroborosArmory]

I have had to look this up a lot.. I need to try out some stuff to see what I like.

[@TomofAllTrades]

Penetrol and flat black paint (10parts to 1part approximately) is a nice durable finish. It needs to dry a day or so. 👍🏼

[@TheNuggetshooter]

Excellent well done informative video.

[@3870TheDad]

Thanks again for awesome content.

[@katrinao8548]

Been waiting for this video

[@20mcarroll02]

When i use coal, i like to pile green coal up on the fire pot and then lay the part in the smoke. I learned that at a blacksmithing class i took. I believe they called it a sulfur oxide coating. But if im using charcoal or the gas forge, im partial to linseed oil or paste wax. If its a food item, i use olive oil, same as i season my cast iron cookware with.

[@skylord8625]

I see your video, I press like.

[@jamesmcmillen4828]

I use a similar mixture of beeswax, BLO, and turpentine. I call it "blacksmith butter". Great stuff. Being that I make mostly Civil War period camp gear and some ornamental ironwork, it really holds up to the weather. On food-related items I nearly always use cooking oil spray while the metal is still hot-ish. Cooking oil kind of "seasons" the ironwork like a cast iron skillet. Smells like a fish fry too...so that's an added bonus for a Mississippi blacksmith. The phosphoric acid treatment really intrigues me. I bet that stuff is awesome.

[@OuroborosArmory]

Blo?

[@jamesmcmillen4828]

Ouroboros Armory "BLO" is a common abbreviation for Boiled Linseed Oil.

[@28gaball]

Thanks, great video, I’d like to see the effect of the weather on your work with these types of finish. As always very instructive.

[@GWIRailroad]

I been using the 1/3 mineral spirit, 1/3 linseed oil, and 1/3 bees wax, it works great. Thanks for the other options. I have Johnson's past wax for our wood working projects and look forward to trying on metal.

[@onanysundrymule3144]

Thankyou Sir. Could you please say what the mineral spirit is, is that White spirit or turpentine? (I'm from the UK you see, often different terminology is commonly used). Also, is the Linseed Boiled or Raw Linseed that you use. Kind regards.

[@GWIRailroad]

​@@onanysundrymule3144 I have found this to work well for me, it is also suppose to be good for leather. I discovered this from another black smith, who said this is a very old method. Here is the link to that video. Please note I use 1/3 for all components, which does very some from what he does. Also follow the precautions, this can be flammable. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJTRlYCCj7tqntU I hope this helps. Wayne Beeswax Turpentine Boiled Linseed Oil

[@insperatus]

You can bake a boiled linseed oil and beeswax finished piece (or straight BLO) in an oven at 250 degrees F for a couple hours to speed up the drying/hardening process.

[@analogplanet9675]

Love this channel! Just wanted to point out that what john called "tung oil' seemed really to be a tung oil based protective finish with other stuff in it. I love that stuff for the reasons he mentioned, drying faster/better, works on cold steel etc. But I also use pure, real tung oil. food safe, it creates a more amber/brown finish which I find is either "just what the doctor ordered" in certain contexts, or not right at all.

[@matonmongo]

There are also a bunch of aftermarket metal patinas, even in different colors, and one of my favs is Japanese Brown, aka Brown Darkener Patina, available from Jax Chemicals.

[@LazyYes]

I use Canola oil, just started up/havent rly invested to much into my blacksmithing yet. This video was really helpfull!

[@thesage1096]

does it smell after a while ?

[@paulbeach7659]

Thanks for this video John, I really enjoyed it. I have learned quite a bit from your videos.

[@t.h.6000]

Just awesome 👍. Thank you for the information.

[@jereomen]

Great video. I can say from experience that linseed oil will spontaneously combust very easily. I had just one small rag smoke and get hot enough to leave burn marks on a wood floor so it doesn’t take a big pile of rags to have something happen.

[@cydrych]

Thanks for this. Great information. For your shop made finishes you could use spice jars. I use them and the small jars that crushed garlic comes in for my homemade cutting board butter. (Mineral oil and beeswax)