Finishing the Spindles for my Next Big Project - Part 6

[@somethingelse2740]

Your engineering so far, as usual, is pretty darn good, and pleasing to the eye.

[@briankuhn7396]

These pieces are works of art. Amazing work!

[@docdetroit146]

Your design engineering and fabrication skills just keep getting better and better. Great work!

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

a GREAT trick for next time is to spray that entire area down with your anti-splatter spray for your mig gun tip, and then when you stick weld, the actual part your welding is fine because it's SO hot at the tip where the arc is, it doesnt matter, but the surrounding area is coated and the weld splatter and BB's fall right off!

[@ratherBweldingChris]

I wish I had thought of that

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

@@ratherBweldingChris well if ya dont know, now you know.......... Brother!

[@danfrederick3172]

Also, if you fire up your torch with just acetylene and coat your part with that black soot. Same thing. Keep up the good work!

[@basketofdeplorables4253]

@@ratherBweldingChristo answer the question about the seal, there is definitely a seal on the shaft for the vacuum hubs.

[@henrylitjes5695]

It’s only as strong as it’s weakest link. So you beef up what you think is necessarily. It’s like therapy to see you build. Specially with that mesmerizing background music. Never ever stop doing what you do Chris. you’re awesome and one hack of a engineer / fabricator. Love you’re content greets from a guy from the Netherlands. Can’t wait to for the next video. Henry.

[@shaynegadsden]

Something that might be worth considering on my 4wd we have an upgrade that places a simple brake disc and caliper on the back of the transfer case for a handbrake no only does it simplify everything because it's inboard but you also gain a mechanical advantage having the brake before the final gear reduction ie the diff meaning a smaller setup and less input force and a handbrake that will hold pretty much anywhere

[@StillOnSteel]

God can't wait to see how it looks when it's finished!

[@ryanwalker388]

I like the direction you are going. Mini trophy truck that is versatile sounds awesome.

[@xpndblhero5170]

8:24 - I've been wondering the whole time about how these would work without reinforcements.... Now I understand why he did it this way because that would suck to weld in that tiny space. Nicely done.... These look amazing. 😁👍

[@lostinthepages2409]

This might be favorite build so far. Just based on the complexity

[@tntcustoms7074]

We use a needle scaler at work to take Slag off of stick welds, as well as cleaning parts etc. I would recommend one for sure

[@ultra4suzukisamurai679]

You should set up the vacuum hubs to be switched independently to help turn in tight spots in 4WD.

[@ratherBweldingChris]

Yep, that’s what I’m planning on doing

[@larrydavidson3402]

Those spindles along with the other components are a work of art. Great job Chris.

[@mathiascappers6491]

@chris love the build! Keep in mind the seal ring's "open side" should be on the outside of the vacuüm. so the close side towards the vacuüm

[@mathiascappers6491]

@ratherbwelding2089 , i hope you see this so you don't get any vacuum issues 😉

[@timleonard9762]

So glad to see its going to be a mini trophy truck! You should watch some of the design episodes for the Speed UTV, Robby gives some great ideas on how and why he is building his cars a certain way. I found it very enlightening.

[@rccle1023]

I'm more excited about this build than any others you have done! This will be sweet!

[@jamestodd2050]

I am an ASE Master certified Auto Tech. Many years ago i installed a pair of CV axles on a front wheel drive car that lived 80% of it's life being towed by an RV. The axles had been modified by having the shaft cut in half and had a splined sleeve added which could be slid into position to lock the shaft together or slid to a position which had no splines and allowed the end of the axle to rotate freely and eliminate wear on the power train of the car in tow. That concept seems like an ideal way to manually lock and unlock your front wheels

[@rayrayadkins6178]

Everything you build I'm amazed keep doing the builds because they're enthusiastic makes me want to build stuff like you're building so keep up the good work man you're doing a great job

[@jstephenallington8431]

I can tell just by looking at the work you're putting into this project that it's going to be spectacular!

[@1187titanium]

Excellent work! Air powered needle scaler will clean the slag out of them tight spots

[@willieshaw2522]

Neat piece. Instead of making the stands to be able to access the bolts, you could have used socket, button, or torx head capscrews.

[@doneblocker]

I have been watching you last few years, and almost every build is well made, well engineered. Greetings from Czech republic.

[@brianrhubbard]

People underestimate the power of that particular engine. Especially with a spinny boy bolted on it. Heck, the Sierra Car (Alpha model) has that engine setup in it and it makes 450hp. I'm with you on that, you gonna want to make it strong, I'd over build for sure.

[@edmondpecotjr.8888]

the first 13 seconds of this video is a true work of art. nice brah

[@mickc8738]

A strong driveline that is more important to start with I agree, power can always be added later love the channel 👍

[@BraxxJuventa]

Looks strong indeed Chris. Well(d) done! 👍😁

[@horstszibulski19]

Nice to see your projects evolving from just for fun to last to have fun! 👍👍👍

[@jamesfischer5389]

😱Amazing Chris! I'm looking forward to every video in the build, and to see the Finished Project! Can't Wait! ☮️

[@Rideaholic069]

Chris, in a lot of those CV outer joints there is a snap ring in the cup side of the joint right where the big end of the boot clamps on. Also when machining parts on your lathe, if you run the cutting speed very slow on your final cut you will get a near polished finish.

[@AlphaMachina]

This, exactly.

[@lloydbaker7099]

Really enjoy the project

[@aidanworthington]

you need to install the seal backwards the hold a vacuum------ spring on the outside

[@mxmv.g]

My man over here got the godlike patience. Can't wait to see it taking shape!

[@matthewlee8917]

You do great work. Love your projects. Careful with those long sleeves around machine tools…. Would like to keep watching you for years to come. With both arms.

[@abdallahdaali3683]

Man I really love and enjoy your videos ❤️❤️❤️

[@rolandbriscoe4977]

This is your best project yet, Not to heavy but strong....Awesome

[@VenomClawz]

a "needle descaler" is what you'll need i believe to get all the hard corners etc, used one when i was manufacturing compressor heads for jenny

[@GodschildinNC]

Great work as usual. You could put a line lock on. That would take the place of a hand brake, and work in conjunction with what you have in place already. The idea of an inboard driveline break, I would be sceptical about, due to slack in the chain drive.

[@terminalpsychosis8022]

This man has learned a shitload about lathes in the time I've been watching this channel. Awesome. Someone, please send him some gas actuated lockers. That actually work.

[@shawnthompson9912]

This build has my full attention. Very cool bro !!

[@rccle1023]

This is my favorite channel! Anyone else??

[@nme1605]

Chris, if you can find a master cylinder the uses a tapered brake line as a fluid feed, you won't need 2 calipers. You can use both the foot brake and the hand brake using the same calipers. While the hand brake is at rest, the foot brake will pass through and when you need the hand brake, it will be readily available using the existing fluid

[@sk33zzy40]

Love the work, your absolutely brilliant my only concern wouldn’t be weight as much it is about horsepower and torque in the Hayabusa engine to achieve what you want it to do with it.. I get gear reduction, but that’s still a ton of rotational mechanical mass to get moving and be responsive and fast.. you probably could’ve Turbo’d a 4 cylinder like a K or B series or done a forged built 4 cylinder turbo and achieved the power/torque numbers required to be fun, fast, responsive, and reliable. 🤔

[@scottwright388]

You're build, you're choice. Do your thing as you please.

[@РодионВикторович-с6р]

Как всегда с огромным удовольствием смотрю ваши видео. 👍

[@darylwebb198]

Awesome fabricator, live watching your video

[@boonejames]

Some of your best work. Don't let weld trolls get to you

[@aeroflopper]

isn't that what grinders are for?

[@paulvandal4444]

Nice build you've come a long way. Those hub assemblies look bulletproof. Started following back in the diy lathe build. Keep up the good work! PS. That 15 degree boot interference is what travel stops on suspension systems is for. You may have to limit the travel or replace boots every time it goes airborne🤣. Best of luck

[@ALWhiteAuthor]

Look into getting a pneumatic needle scaler. Will vastly reduce the cleanup time when doing stick or dual shield flux core welding. You can also use it to add a hammered or piened texture to flat materials.

[@calholli]

With a stick welder, you can even bend your rod at the last inch or 2 and curve around into really hard to reach places. You can only weld a short amount at a time until you have to bend it again, and the flux will break off sometimes, but in a pinch, you can make it work in a tight spot.

[@jasonbirch1182]

Put the second caliper and handbrake on the rear. Put a line lock in it to hold the fronts if you need it. A real handbrake is a great tool driving something like this. You can spin it around in small places, set up for a turn. Trust me, you want them in the rear. A line lock is a solenoid valve, you push the brake and then press the button and it will hold the brake pressure until you release the button. You can use that to do standing burnouts too.

[@davebartram1732]

Loving your builds here in uk 🇬🇧 wish there were more so work faster haha could watch these all day 👍

[@bennyfactr6122]

Istead of a dual caliper/handbrake setup, you could install a line-lock wired to a toggle switch.

[@AlteredCarbons]

damn, never noticed how big this build was going to be till you had that tire on the stand with the hub in it... so when are you building the world biggest monster truck. tires as big as two story's thats what im waiting for

[@SeanKarleone]

Nice work!

[@RC3rdparanormal]

YOU DO FANTASTIC WORK!

[@solarfunction1847]

Whenever you stick weld you always use a square piece of sheet metal with a 3/4 inch wide slot cut into it at the middle about 3/4 along the sheet's length & then bend the sheet 90 degrees in the middle of the slot so you can weld along the open slot & flip it over for the other corner weld. This piece of sheet metal acts as a splatter guard so you can minimize time wasted on clean up of al the bb's.

[@acurarl9929]

That busa motor has cpl bolt on options for turbos. Can get easy 400hp out of them engines especially if you lower the compression a lil you can get high hp no problem and again cpl I stock bolt on turbo kits for that if you decide to go super insane with it witch would be super cool for sure.

[@datronicsabuakwa2091]

well done.just waiting for main structure

[@Dayne32nd]

Look up a Ford IWE integrated wheel end they use vacuum in the separate actuator to move a collar that locks the axle to the hub.

[@tstricklin4808]

All the work that goes in to creating those hub carriers I think I'd learn how to make molds n melt steel ,pour them suckers

[@bjarneolesen8949]

Hello Chris. If you want to get a wacuum i the hub you must mount the seal so the sealinglip faces towards the hub joint. Nice build you are doing. 👍👍from Bjarne in Denmark.

[@nwafab5335]

I agree with Bjarne, otherwise you will lose vacuum

[@mr.braapalicious]

Looks like getting broke in the woods may be over for good with this build! Very exciting..

[@alwaysworking7899]

In the ford knuckle there is a shoulder that the seal presses into similar to what you made in the back of you knuckle.

[@MaNNeRz91]

You can bend the sticks to get into tight corners 👍

[@jonathanschrader7881]

The vacuum hubs are like a super duty Ford like 2000 samething. You are correct needing the seal. And removing the axle shaft KZbin Toyota birfield being taken apart.. samething... Good luck... amazing work

[@89Mirageman]

Awesome work. Those rear knuckles are nice. Been thinking about doing an awd swap on my mirage and something similar would work perfect on my rear trailing arms.

[@mlsargent51]

If you look into how 2006-2008 Ford hub seals work on their 4x4 you'll see they use a 2 section seal. An inner and outer section spin on each other, and maintain the vacuum sealing needed to engage the hubs.

[@pdishley1]

I think i speak for everyone on here that the build is going to be amazing as usual 👍 As for the weight of the truck how about twin Hayabusa engine's (front and rear)? That way you'll compensate weight and less strain on clutch and chain. Just something to ponder on. I'm sure you already have a plan in place for the build though. Maybe a future twin engine project 🤔 😉 Keep up the amazing work Chris.

[@mikedavis6566]

Hey Chris, greetings from Texas!! Great work as usual. The only concern I would voice is that this is definitely be a larger/heavier vehicle and your are planning on driving it with chains. You may need to start thinking about moving toward using drive shafts and diffs. Keep it up.

[@skipsterz]

My thoughts exactly. How is the little motorcycle clutch not gonna just burn up too?

[@paulvandal4444]

1920s Mack Trucks used chain drive. Works fine. It's that last 25% of "I'm 75% sure" that can get you though.

[@Addison0526]

@@paulvandal4444 I'm sure the engine in those didn't operate at 8000+ rpm though lol

[@paulvandal4444]

@@Addison0526 I won't argue with you there 😄. But a mack dump trunk was beast even back then. BTW Burt Munro set his record speed with "a highly modified 1920s Indian motorcycle" official speed over 190 mph. Chain driven I believe. Has Chris talked what engine plans to use?

[@daBlaue]

Great Job, i'm watching every week! Greetings from Austria! 😎😎🙋‍♂🙋‍♂

[@DANEMSPRINGER]

Those naysayers can suckit, you do great work man! You keep on doing your thing and we'll enjoy watching 👍🏻

[@quintin1561]

I like the video before I even watch it. Nice work!

[@timon2wheels355]

You can use a pass through handbrake like on our drift cars. This simplifies installation and has less unsprung weight with a single caliper per wheel.

[@codyyoung5398]

Good news is if the vacuum hubs don’t work out in the end you can always switch to manual hubs for the ford ranger. And just unlock one of them if steering is too hard in 4wd since your axles are locked together.

[@mattcassinell694]

Air needles bud with a light gage needle cleans slag in tight areas

[@tke7mu0u]

To remove CV's from the drive shaft you must just hit the edge of the CV at the back while holding the drive shaft. It has a clip internally essentially it acts as a detent like a wrench

[@countryenduro4504]

This thing is going to be wicked

[@Brwnbear1985]

Could've tried the f150 hub assembly. Looks less complicated. They have a hub assembly, and a vacuum Actuator.

[@kaleb6665]

U did awesome bro

[@stkstikle]

Are you going to use a gasket to seal between the hub and part you made? Stick welds will be stronger then mig welding unless you use flux core with gas, in my opinion. A good tool to invest in and an air needle gun, they have a cheap one that works great at Harbor Freight.

[@matthewella8280]

i think would be better with the turbo on the engine or twin turbo

[@damianbrennan2258]

Love your plasma cutter

[@hemibreath]

Suggesting ! Put the seal in backwards to hold the vacuum better

[@Driftprodigy01]

On my f350 it has auto locking hubs and the axle does have a rubber seal around it that fits real tight in the hub with a vacuum line on the hub but it also has manual locking if the vacuum doesn't work

[@battleaxefabandmachine]

The shaft does have a spring clip on it. They come off hard. If you are trying to build a vacuum in there then you installed the seal backwards

[@laymanengineer7502]

I also like to sway on the side of durability rather than weight. Although those bike engines aren't designed for a whole lot of rotational mass. I'm sure you thought of what's reasonable though. I know you're a perfectionist like myself but those stick welds look just fine, so what about the slag. won't see it anyways. Nice job on the spindles! 👍

[@ShaunHensley]

His stuff is HEAVY 😂, I think eventually he’ll work on building lighter rigs and components IF he sticks with it

[@acurarl9929]

Looks mint man. Don’t be hard on yourself. All came out sweet. Also definitely not to heavy. This is exactly where you want the extra weight/strength for sure.

[@MrKingdavis13]

Not sure how the Ranger system works but that is how it is supposed to work on the full size trucks. The problem with using vacuum to lock the front wheels is that as soon as there is even a tiny leak in the system through a seal or whatever it sucks dirt, water and whatever else into the precision parts that generally have to be clean and lubricated which doesn't make their life expectancy too great after that. It is a design that looks good on paper and even seems pretty cool but is really only good for parking lot wheelers and trips to the grocery store while it still has a warranty in my opinion.

[@rickburnout666]

I like this build, with tat engine you could call it GSX4x4, better than a Sierra RX3. Great work

[@reviewaccount469]

You might want to plumb in a vacuum reservoir for when you engage the front hubs. The Hayabusa hopefully makes enough absolute vacuum, but it may be slow to engage without a reservoir to take the hit. On the other hand, it may not in fact make enough vacuum for how you have them setup, and you may want to research an electric vacuum pump as a backup.

[@paceydaudey176]

Beau travail 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@oikkuoek]

The excess bolt thread on the lower hyme joint will become an issue when off-roading. Too close proximaty to the CV-joint gathers and compresses dust and mud into the joint.

[@MikeMac90]

The guys who run manuals offload in jeeps and stuff run a throttle lever on the shift lever to control the throttle while they are on hills. Then they can control the brakes and the clutch with their feet and throttle with their hand. AND they still have a throttle pedal for normal driving.

[@pennyfold6717]

once this is done i bet it will be so sick :)

[@Bertusproximus]

The oil seal you use on the hub will need some kind of oil fairly often or it will fail. It's a two way street the seal keeps oil in usually and the oil in turn lubricates it and slows down wear

[@aeroflopper]

circlip, but some do have a snap ring and do just bang off, Toyota come to mind. when you put the nut on the cv joint have you left enough room, so the cv dont pull up against the seals and crush them?

[@PaulC001]

are there any plans for getting a sandblaster/bead blaster thing for the shop to make cleanup of some parts easier?

[@mcglgs420]

It probably worth considering doubling up your chains for your final drive components. It will be a lot of weight to turn and stop your typical chain by itself may not be strong enough for it.

[@sennekok3891]

My Sunday is complete again love it ! What if you put a v6 in it, i would love to see that anyway keep up te amazing work man 👊🏼👍🏻

[@aj-fb5yi]

A set of avm manual locking hubs for a ford ranger would be a much simpler option. I used them on my first gen kia sportage to eliminate the temperamental vacuum hubs.