Home Made Mini 4WD Trophy Truck Project - Part 1

[@oliververnon6966]

The long wheelbase will help with doing trophy truck things (high speed desert racing), but may be less ideal on narrow trails through the woods. Good to remind yourself of what the build will actually be used for as you're building it. That being said, trophy trucks are my favorite off-road vehicles and I'm super excited for this build!

[@Unthawed_Pie]

or you find the happy the medium of where it is good for both

[@luxtempestas]

You work so fast, every video has a ton of content to show! Awesome!

[@ratherBweldingChris]

I appreciate that!

[@calholli]

He's definitely a work-a-holic. lol

[@Ejrupolsen]

@@ratherBweldingChris You have spammers in the comment section 👍

[@sammcbride2464]

Most vehicles are flat, because they want the caster and toe to stay static when the wheel moves up and down. Changing toe when the wheel on either sides goes up and down will cause bump steer which is sometimes desired, but that is done by the mount location distance from the center of the vehicle and not the geometry of the frame. Caster is another handling property that allows you to create a slight pull to one side or the other, but again, it is desired for that to be static. Caster is interesting, because it generally does not alter tire wear to get steering input effort changed. Your setup creates a positive caster when you hit rocks which will increase steering effort and pull to one side or the other.

[@jasonbirch1182]

You need to keep reading. You are pretty far off on most of that. Read geometry books. It's all arcs and pivots. The level or non level starting point of a dual a arm suspension has zero to do with toe or caster. The relationship between the upper and lower arm angles in every axis is what is going to determine how the knuckles behave. The difference in length between the upper and lower is also a major factor. His suspension "designs" have all parallel arms. And pivots on the frame. There is sooooooo much more that can be achieved by moving things around with a correct design. Anti dive under braking, anti roll/roll center isn't even remotely considered or even close to understood. He could be building things 10 times cooler and better performing if he actually educated himself a little bit.

[@sammcbride2464]

@@jasonbirch1182 Read? I have read and own 3 track cars for many years. 2 of them had bump steer on the rear and I changed the bump steer on 1 of them to be equal to a 93+ model car after the factory changed the setup. To change the bump steer (which is toe in when the car squats over bumps or in a corner lean), you change the tie rad mount location to the crossmember either in or out. Move it inward for less bump steer and outward for more bump steer. This is a fact and causes understeer and whip out when too aggressively out from centerline of the car. For the front, I have changed to fully adjustable coil overs. I change the top mount angle depending on speed, surface slope, and style of the track and how much steering effort is ideal. These are all Toyotas. 2 are MR2 from 1991 when I started modifying these cars. 1 is from 2016 and is a FR-S. Before that, I built Trans AMs, FIAT Spyders, and Alfa Romeos in the 80's. Caster was done with shims on all of them. FIAT had a pan hard rod for rear, Trans AM is a solid rear axel, Alfa is a multi-link. If you want to know the math, you simply draw a triangle in the x/z plane and the y/z plane of the length of the A-arms and the angle of the base frame and upper and lower travel limits. One for toe deflection and the other for caster deflection. It will be simple to measure the deflection distance either with a simple tape measure for something already mocked up at the limit of travel or if you want to calculate it you can use some of the trig functions of sin, cos, invsin, invcos and the lengths of the arms vs travel range. @ an angle of 8 degrees, I bet this deflection will be more than a caster shim normally used or adjusting the top mount of a coil over.

[@ryannickfabrication]

Jason's correct. 4wd and off road is way different than track. Bent up like that gives it anti dive and you want pro dive in a off road 4wd. There's a bunch of reasons rbw would want that flat instead of angled. For instance look at a 2wd Traxxas slash compared to a 4wd slash. That's the quickest reference I could think of. From experience if there's no pro dive designed into a 4wd off road truck then the suspension won't work under acceleration. It will be hard bc the anti squat will be working against it

[@sammcbride2464]

@@ryannickfabrication I understand your position and agree somewhat, but that is not the point. The reason most frames are flat is to be able to adjust the suspension through shims, control arms, and tie rods easily for racing on a track or in this case a terrain. The calculations are simpler. We are discussing a trophy truck, not a crawler. A trophy truck is a racing class truck on a track. It is not hitting rocks like a truck that I would take to some 4 wheel drive event. I do own a truck as well.

[@jasonbirch1182]

@@sammcbride2464 well moving the mount inward isn't actually what is changing the toe gain(rear bump steer). It's lengthening the tie rod to correct the arc. Changing the mount height will dramatically affect it as well. As far as castor it still has zero to do with the angle of the control arms. We'll use 8° inclination . If upper and lower a arms are at 8° to chassis, moving up and down through travel doesn't change the castor. If it's 3° at bottom it's 3° at top. The knuckle is along for the ride at that castor angle. It just moves rearward as suspension compresses. It will cause toe change if it's not setup correctly though. You are talking about moving a top hat in a MacPherson strut suspension. That changes castor and camber depending on which way you move it and is completely different than a dual arm setup.

[@somethingelse2740]

Doing great so far! My only concern is the long chain from front to back. When chains get that long they flop around and stretch horribly especially when you start throwing Hayabusa power and off road dirt at them. You might want to consider making a full length chain guard/guide with the bottom lined in tough nylon so the chain doesn't drag on metal and make lots of noise. And of course an adjustable tensioner or two inside. Looking forward to the rest of the build.

[@got2soar]

Such blissful time in the shop just thinking and staring and planning! The mini TT project is looking great Chris. I doubt you read all the comments but man oh man are they entertaining. The smiles are bigger when you keep doing it your way.

[@Nowayjose-z2r]

The attention to detail keeps me watching these. AWESOME JOB. The axel bit: You know how many people, including myself, wouldn't have thought more then looking down the side and then going to work. I would LOVE to own something you made, that is for sure!

[@RandysRides]

I 100% agree with your 10 degree front suspension mounts.. Motorcycles are raked for that exact reason.

[@Paul-zv2gj]

Except that motorcycles are a completely different design.

[@thebikespot9177]

Gotta love Sundays 🔥🔥🤙 keep it on Chris!

[@ultra4suzukisamurai679]

Trophy trucks and most other off road rigs use “flat” a arms because a heavier rig will experience a lot of dive under braking with the a arms leaning back. On 4WD ridge the front end will be more likely to raise when on the gas. Every thing is a compromise. On a lighter rig with less power these ride height issues are less of a problem.

[@shaunpc2512]

Hello my friend, I’m looking at the scale of this thing and I would like to say that you may want to consider front and rear differentials and a drive shaft to link them together rather than using chains.

[@spencerward3563]

I'd say make it as compact as you can while getting it road legal, best of both worlds... this project is already awesome so far keep it up! 👍👍

[@jerrywilcox9890]

He's not going to make it street legal lol.

[@migueldenboer5186]

It can never be road legal

[@ratmanbrian]

Just to note, the tie rods don't have to be in a straight line between the ball joints. A more rearward location will give more Ackerman and may limit the lock. The important parameters are (a) the length of the tie rod ( this should be in proportion to the A-arm lengths and you may have to alter the length of the rack to get this right ) and (b) the height of the rack which you may have to adjust to achieve zero bump steer. The height of the rack mounting is the most critical.

[@freeridemoto7133]

this guy doesnt even know what ackerman theory is or any basic fab knowledge. He doesnt even aline the CL on the tubes lol

[@Adub86]

For real. My full size, 609 rear steer buggy on 42s chassis is 50” wide. It’s gonna be too big, and underpowered.

[@drwhat4574]

@@freeridemoto7133Why are you watching his videos if you don’t like him?

[@jasonbirch1182]

@@drwhat4574 entertainment. He is a pretty skilled fabricator but he's so against actually learning the most basic of things to help with his builds. His suspension/steering geometry is already fucked up and it's barely started. "in my opinion it's better" like no one already knows these things.

[@jasonbirch1182]

@@freeridemoto7133 man that rack is soooo inadequate for this. If he tries to do offset tie rods it's going to destroy that shit on the bump out of the shed. I wish I hit the lucky lottery and got into you tube when he did and was doing this for a living. It's like almost infuriating he actually has skills/time/money to do these builds and doesn't want to learn the basics that any builder of a reasonable performance vehicle knows. I mean looking at pictures for ideas is one thing but basing your suspension geometry on it!? Okey dokey.

[@clydebalcom3679]

Nice thing about this type of project is the adaptability of the design.

[@byker4lyfe1]

Bro... just found your channel and don't presume to tell you haw to build things but when my face is so deep into a project some times an outside opinion really helps me out. Again I have browsed through some of your videos and wow... you are right up there with GHPC. keep up the great work love what you do

[@JokerFromHell]

Hell yeah, finaly a twoseater! Cant wait to see how it looks like when its finished!

[@haydenlund2551]

A trophy truck is very impressive. Great idea and great video!

[@ALWhiteAuthor]

Have you considered a bell crank steering system? Put the rack between the arms ahead of the pivot points and you can adjust for Ackerman, toe and bump steer as-needed with simple turnbuckles. Basically like an RC car steering system with the rack in the place of the drag link.

[@ratherBweldingChris]

That is plan-B if the rack and pinion doesn’t work out

[@BBC.Customs.2]

I love that you give us insight into how your brain works through different design challenges, not just a 'here is what I did' but the why as well. And for doors, something similar to a CanAm X3 might be an option to keep the weight down but add protection and use Bear jaw latches with reverse opening like the X3s.

[@russtuff]

This is a cool project. For your slightly bent jack shafts, check out Keith Fenners videos on how to straighten shafts using heat. It's easier than you would think.

[@streetlegalbuilds7644]

You definitely deserve way more subscribers! You’ve definitely in the top three of mini moto KZbinrs

[@dirtydsrc]

The upside of learning how to use Fusion 360 is in the future you can figure out the whole build virtually in 360 first and sort everything out there. then physically build the virtual model, in fusion 360 you can animate your virtual model too and check that all your moving parts jive properly. Your geometry, travel, clearances, sheer points, point loads, CG. sprung weight, un-sprung weight, weight balance bias, bump steer, scrub radius, toe, camber, caster, acreman and check for binding anywhere. Eliminates a lot of second guess work. I'm sure you've already considered that but just in case you haven't, just thought I would share that with you. Happy building to you.

[@drjmansplace5174]

One thing to consider is how big and how many trophies you're planning to haul. If you plan on rock crawling, I'd use something light and strong. Also add reinforcements to the chassis. Of course depending on engine size.

[@brianellison3525]

He does say, "Mini trophy" So he won't need that big of a truck to haul a few.

[@drjmansplace5174]

@@brianellison3525 Right. Just didn't want him to repeat the same mistakes base on the video of the other one he did. Price of steel is high.

[@hillonwheels8838]

Trophy trucks are built from existing automotive suspension components like the front knuckles from an f150. That is probably why the A arms are mounted flat. You are making a truly custom everything trophy truck so you are able to make the suspension move however you want.

[@billhicksmcgee1181]

TT definitely not racing on f150 spindles/knuckles

[@justinoliver1984]

Nice to see you figured out the "lead in" on the arc droid

[@HellmuthsHotRods]

I don't mean to be a know it all, but I have used a notcher a lot and have a suggestion, ignore if you want! Don't "bury" the hole saw quite so deep into the end of the tube, leave it out a bit more and leave a bit of tube not cut, then you don't get that razorblade thin edge. Makes life a bit easier. Also, I have the same bender, and I am the cheapest guy in the world. But, the air over hydraulic cylinder upgrade is WORTH IT! You don't have to fight the machine flopping around and holding it back with your foot, etc. Harbor freight has a cheap one that has been pretty good. I made a degree wheel too that dummy-proofs the bends.

[@ambersmith6517]

take your time on this one it could WILL be awesome

[@AlaskanAF]

Regarding the angle of the LCA mounts: class 10 buggies run about 7-10 degrees with parallel a-arms, but some trucks (especially oems) run a flat LCA with heavily angled UCA, creating caster gain. This allows the wheel to move rearward with compression for that same smoothness, but with less dive under braking and more usable travel. The more you angle the control arms back, the less vertical travel you have and the more dive you will have under braking. That said, I would set it up the exact same way you did! I can't wait to see where this goes 🤟

[@alyo3299]

Cant wait for this series .... I love trophy trucks

[@tinkerne-round4079]

Just a thought at the beginning of watching this video. Have you ever thought about inboard brakes? It would help with unsprung weight on something made to bounce around at high speed.

[@ratherBweldingChris]

I did think about that, but it wouldn’t work on the front for this project because the CV’s aren’t engaged with the tires in 2wd. But I am doing inboard brakes on the rear

[@jayhawk184]

man i was beyond excited when cars and cameras started a baja trophy truck video. am extra excited to see you do it

[@AlteredCarbons]

you never cease to amaze me with the bad ass shit you make man. i'd love to ride one.

[@tomcelica]

This fabrication stuff may be everyday work to you, but it’s absolutely magical to me. I would love to learn how to do what you are doing. It amazes me to no end.

[@Plunderpigge15]

Good to see you doing what you love to do… happy for you buddy🎉

[@garypeterson9083]

Keep it light and simple. Like a jeep. That's the best recipe. Oh yeah and lots of horsepower. Good luck.

[@nickk5368]

Some where in the middle don’t make it smaller than a jeep and x3 but big enough for some comfort

[@robertproteau4113]

I think you should talk to Robby Gordon’s people about you frame and suspension setup. From what I hear he is really cool to KZbinr makers. Not to mention the guy is a legend in off-road racing. Who knows, he might help you out. Anyway, I’m loving this build already.

[@MrCiO0011]

This is awesome, pure fabrication. I love this kind of videos.

[@juliewaite3718]

We think your the best of building your stuff on KZbin. Your good dude keep it going.

[@tobiasandersen1168]

I dont know if u see this but really love ur channel i discovered u long time ago when u did make that trike bike the cbr 600 and since i have been obsessed with ur content u did me inspire to make My own project and that and I got a hard depression and it helped me a lot thrue that i had somthing to do and not sitting and wanted to end all reslly big thanks and really love to see ur videos u has helped me alot ❤️🤙 thanks

[@devinremillard7447]

have to remember about caster. might be hard to steer with the front of the frame bent up like that. cant wait to see more of this build

[@JW-fq1pp]

I think the bigger question is if that engine has enough power to do what you are going to ask of it. You're at the point that you need to start considering small auto 4-cylinder engines for your builds.

[@hebson21]

32" tires and 4wd will suck a lot of power regardless of vehicle weight. He should look into pro lite trophy trucks and buggie racing specs/geo

[@clintwalker7720]

looking forward to watching this build! I use Fusion 360 and love it, you can do so much with it, it is awesome!

[@catornneberg4276]

Looking forward to the next videos 😁 I really hope that someone sends you a weldingtable, you would be the perfect advert for that kind of tool 😉

[@Handleyman]

There are metal fabricators and there are metal fabricators, and then there is you! The purest form of the art. No plans no diagrams it’s all in your head. Absolutely fantastic work. First rate!

[@drakos2000]

Oh boy! Can't wait to see this one coming to life!!! GL man!!! I love your work!

[@charlieritchel1492]

You build some really cool stuff man. I've been watching you from the start of things. If you get the opportunity to put a LS motor or a harley davidson motor in one of your builds it would be awesome!! Both are easy to wire up and have transmissions that work pretty well too. Either way if you decide not to use either of those I'll still keep tracking your progress. Keep it up man, keep on building!!

[@thornilsson8661]

not a harley davidson their the dirtiest engines out there based off oil tests and are ran through a belt system which is infamous to be unreliable for bigger heavier vehicles

[@charlieritchel1492]

@@thornilsson8661 I only wanted to see him use American motors in maybe one of his builds. Chain drives can be used on a harley just by changing the sprocket and their not as dirty as some want to say. I've owned several harley bikes and never had any issues with them being dirty.

[@plusplus3]

Keep up the great work!! This project is coming out awesome. Love your videos!!

[@BraxxJuventa]

Thanks for filming Chris. 👍😁

[@youssefzegari1618]

I think big project takes a lot of time but i am so excited to follow this big project until the finish

[@RoyalStoner]

Love your videos ❤ you are so amazing at what you do keep up the great work this man has unbelievable talent 🔥🙏🏻👌🏻

[@vincentchaza8111]

Careful there,we wouldn't like some aliens come and steal him for building their own spaceships.

[@jamesmcgee9279]

This is exciting! I look forward to the first rip!

[@S.A_DANCERS-TECH345]

Wow this is amazing infact you are my role model I love it

[@TripleXclown]

Amazing work, the preparation is definitely paying off!

[@andythomas7757]

Maybe for the doors go with something like how a polaris rzr or something a long them lines. Cant wait to see how this builds going to look when its done. Love all the other builds but this ones topped the cake.

[@thecrittercage8255]

I definitely think you should try to make doors for that, it wouldn't only protect you better but it'll also be cool to see how you would make a door with all the Door mechanisms and stuff. It would be cool to put windows in it powered or hand crancked but that's just a extra thing so it'll just be cool

[@tylerdowe7342]

YES!!! Another project to watch💪🏼 love this guys work!

[@parabellumracecraft]

We leave our front control arms flat, or around a couple degrees max from flat because our trucks have alot of rear squat, especially at high speeds over rough terrain. The rear squat gives enough degree angle to the front without messing up caster/camber and effecting bumpsteer.

[@jamesbull187]

Love these build vids! 😎

[@sams7655]

Don't build it to big to get it out of your shed!

[@loganlemx]

you should do a solid axle and tire carrier in the rear and put the engine in the front. Like the full size trucks.

[@JoelArseneaultYouTube]

Great video, as always ! Just got to the part about the bent jack shaft... I wouldn't be concerned about the bent shaft being hard to turn, or even ruining bearings... Ultimately, what will determine if this is an issue will be how fast it is turning, how much runout there is in the section that you are using and how heavy the parts are that are attached to it. My concern would be with the shaft snapping in half if it is under high loads and a lot of vibration... that could seriously injure you and damage lots of stuff.

[@Brutalford]

Hardest working KZbinr I'm always so impressed

[@bdkw1]

Some TT's have raked front ends. It promotes more dive under braking so adding in a little anti-dive doesn't hurt. The sprocket carrier doesn't need to be inline with the hubs. The rack does not need to be inline with the steering arms. Moving things around a little can solve a lot of issues.

[@anthonyrojas9791]

TROPHY TRUCK TIME WE HAVE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR 🤘🏽🤘🏽

[@aserta]

It's clearly in the "mini" range. It fits in your shop. An actual TTP ... let's just say that it needs space saver spare tires if you want to fit one on a trailer, which always looks utterly hilarious. :))

[@jameswarren423]

This looks like it’s going to be an incredible build, and a beast to boot with that Hayabusa motor! Can’t wait. Keep up the great work.👍🏼🤩❤️

[@danyak1034]

This guy is a legend for sure, taking that project on himself. That’s just nuts 🔩

[@discipleoftheword1785]

Go all out. Over the top build

[@barneymiller7894]

Dual I beam front suspension is also really popular on prerunners and trophy trucks 👍

[@mbatshimokwena2712]

cant wait for this project to finish a trophy truck yessssss

[@stevebloke5455]

This is going to be Awesome!!!!! also sweet tunes and editing i like that you don't show a lot of welding being taught not to look at welding ark i instinctively turn away even when it's on video. Keep up the great work.

[@ALWhiteAuthor]

I think they keep the front arms coplanar to the chassis for maximum travel. With the front kickup you lose a marginal amount of overall up travel. In the bigger trucks, they need every little bit they can get with the weight they're carrying. This is going to be so light in comparison, the travel loss will be fine.

[@freedomfab319]

I don't get much out of these buggy builds. But I still watch and like. I miss your old basic builds. 😔

[@jeremysdailycountryliving4347]

The big things that u make out of this little shop is astonishing and definitely inspiring keep up the good work man I love the content

[@reviewaccount469]

OMG I just had a cool idea. Build the steering wheel on a track that locks in and have it be able to drive from the right seat or left seat by just moving it over and locking it.

[@All_SportGG]

What about the pedals?

[@reviewaccount469]

@@All_SportGG Good question. For gas and clutch I think it would be better to put them on the steering wheel as triggers or levers. Not just because the steering would be moveable, but also because you might have more control of them when bouncing around a lot than contact with pedals. As to the brakes, probably a pedal would be best just because of how those cylinders would mount, and then 2 pedals one for each side, but with a manual lockout for the person not driving so they don't accidentally hit it.

[@kinkong1961]

Make it comfortable with space and good suspension that's what I would do as I know you build it in your head the same as I do over and over until you are happy with the finished product then you start the build I know it's going to be good as your fabrication work is top notch.

[@NN7R]

اتابعك من العراق وانا ملهم بأعمالك وطريقة عملك 🇮🇶♥️

[@gazvlogs7459]

Love the new editing style my dude! Nice work!

[@caseybinion806]

Man I can’t wait to see it done you do amazing work I been doing a project my self a sand Rail buggy you have given me some ideas what help me out keep up the good work bud 😎👍

[@bradyjones6771]

Im a little worried about that ‘busa clutch trying to turn 4x 32s. Im sure it will but not for long.

[@hoagiesherlin7732]

It will be fine as long as his gears are low enough

[@All_SportGG]

Since people put turbos on these bikes all the time i am sure its easy to find better clutches

[@bradyjones6771]

I think the massive increase in weight vs what it was designed for will wear it out fast… even with low gears. Im guessing that rig will be close to 1k lbs

[@mattfstephens]

Awesome idea! If you want a bit more comfort (easier on spine) move the seats up vertically 8-10".

[@chuco425]

For the upward angle on the front think about where the tires will be when the suspension is fully compressed. If the frame is hitting the ground that’s bad. It’s one of the reasons actual trophy trucks front suspension is flat with the rest of the truck. Then you factor in that most of them also have the engine in the front so the space for an engine is reduced as well since the front suspension is center mounted the engine is push backwards, removing interior space in the process.

[@mattwells4613]

curious as to why you went chain drive and not adapt the motor to use drive shaft with divorced transfer case

[@diogoazevedo684]

Just the noisr of that many chains its like 10 chainsaws working together 😅 just some difs from the junkyard and would do the trick

[@DatBoiOrly]

IMO it isn't small/mini at all it's probably bigger than a regular SWB 4x4 like a jeep, i think the place you went wrong is seat height, the higher your seat is the less leg length you need to be comfortable if you jacked the seats then the size issue will be fixed and you'll get the same amount of leg room

[@GodschildinNC]

looks good so far. I would add a support between the frame kick outs, the seat section, and gussets. Keep up the good work!

[@Vipek7]

Love your projects. My thoughts: Bending the frame up in front decreases your clearance. If you need more space inside consider getting the seats higher so that your legs go down at an angle.

[@LandscapeAhoy129]

So when you were talking about bending the front a arms, I did some research and found that the term you're after is "Kickup". It kind of falls into the same philosophy as anti-dive and anti-squat geometry, but it's a tad different as kickup only has to do with the front of the hingepin being higher than the rear. From what I can tell, you're exactly right about the advantages of running some Kickup on your design. I'm fairly certain all trophy trucks use kickup, but it may be more conservative at something like 4-7 degrees. This may be why it seems like the a arms are parallel to the chassis, but that's not the case. The thing is, it doesn't take much kickup to encourage the front suspension to travel away from the obstacles so you get diminishing returns the more aggressive you are with it. And the more kickup you use, the more the car will tend to sink into the front tires on braking. Kickup also has a consequential relationship with caster, whereas more kickup gives more caster through the suspension travel. You'd likely have to look into it a bit yourself to understand it better than how I'm explaining here but in essence I believe kickup is a universally positive thing for offroad rigs, though the benefits slow down after just a few degrees and some down-sides start to creep in instead. I think a more conservative figure like 6-8 degrees of kickup will suit your mini truck much better than 10 since that's a tad extreme, but this is only my opinion. Best of luck!

[@Mad4Tracks]

I can think of a reason trophy trucks have the A arms angled flat as this will define where the dive center is of the chassis. For slower speed this is much less of a concern. But it will decide how it behaves when you brake or give throttle. You are correct it is more forgiving on the suspension to have the A arms angled. All production cars have the lower arms flat and upper arms angled. Dont forget you can use caster angle aswell to help make suspension more forgiving in bump. This is seperate of A arm angle.

[@dericklong6191]

Dude this is going to be sick

[@ÁREAJ27]

Olá amigo é fantástica sua criatividade, o projeto é Top de mais!!! Boa sorte!!!

[@kizzmiaz]

Looking forward to this one.

[@austalien1]

this is going to be awesome.... the cogs in your head must be working over time

[@pkerep1]

Greetings from Croatia !!!! Make it MINI!

[@KhaosDaddy92]

I'm pumped for this build!

[@delandbrooks3291]

Use all of the "Throw" in your rack. Then build the Tie rod arms on the spindles as long as you can. That should get you more accurate placement for the rack. Level with the tie rods is what I would shoot for. You can build some camber into your spindles or a -arms to keep the frame flat on future builds. Or just design them to have some adjustment. You might want to consider raising the seat placement to give you better options on legroom. Do a search on "roll bar swing outs" just to see an option on doors.

[@idriwzrd]

Have you considered starting with a Ranger or S10 chassis? You can usually find them pretty cheap. Then you'd at least have a cab and frame rails to start with.

[@johnstancato8785]

Honestly is skilled as you are I would like to see you gravitate away from chain and sprocket and go for transmission and car engine and see what you can come up with big horsepower light I think you could come up with something really awesome chain and sprocket leaves for too much air for breaking and not being able to go with big horsepower

[@arifnoor8358]

You are doing great. Keep it up. Keep those videos coming

[@kyhillbillys10]

Just add 2 more bearings in the jack shaft to help keep it straight. Also cad will be your friend

[@ChangsStorm]

Definitely taking shape