First Look at the xTool P2 Honeycomb

[@madebyomgb7373]

Thanks so much for the video! I'm brand new to the P2 laser and was a bit concerned when I received my xTool HC panel because the fit didn't seem right to me. Your video confirmed I'm not entirely crazy. Happy New Year!

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

You are welcome. Hope you have a fantastic 2024!

[@rcarroll05]

I saw someone on the P2 facebook group and they removed the rubber feet from the "wings" and it made the honeycomb the same height as the slats.

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

I saw that! I plan to test it out with the rubber feet first because that's how it comes from xTool but that looks like a promising option to overcome the height issue. Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to test the honeycomb (life gets in the way)

[@ulaB]

@@MonkeyWoodworks These rubber feet might also be for when you use it with the riser base for larger objects. I am not sure if I understand the "IKEA" style documentation correctly, but the image might suggest to put it on the tray?

[@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1]

I like Lucian’s very much. I am glad & fortunate that I will have both!

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

They are both great options.

[@ShyneflowLC]

My man! Thank you bud

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

Sure thing!

[@Pa_Dave]

do you then say in XCS "baseplate Removed" ? then aimed measure?

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

When i use the honeycomb, I keep the baseplate inserted into the P2 and use the Slat Flat mode. Also, i always auto-measure either by the aimed measure or auto measure.

[@QuiltersHandyman]

which do you use more ....the slats or the honeycomb...I think I would use the honecomb more as I am struggling to get some materials to lay flat. Four hold downs you get with the slats are not enough in my opinion and at $6 apiece plus shipping is not what I am goint to pay.

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

I use the honeycomb exclusively. No more slats. If the 4 hold downs are not enough, you can always pickup some 2mm thick neodymium magnets off amazon to help. 2mm so the laser will pass over them and not hit them. For the size, I would shoot for 20mm minimum to give you some more magnet surface area. Really any strong magnets will work with the xTool honeycomb.

[@michelleteeter7076]

Working for me. Just want to know how to clean it.

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

When your ready to really clean it, Try dawn power wash. Spray it down, let it soak about 5 minutes, then spray it down with a water hose. You will want to dry it fairly quickly after that with a hair dryer or something similar because I am not sure if sure if it will start rusting or not.

[@sharonreid366]

Hi . I just got my M1 Monday last week and beging playing with it to day. I'm just a little Intimidation to work with it. But I got it to help me do some etching 100 stemless 15oz wine glasses , Have you tryed the black laser marking paper the came in the premium material package? Would you make a video .

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

That is a lot of etching! The marking paper works but doing it 100 times would be a lot of extra work. I would look at using a sprayer to spray on tempera paint instead. I have seen others use them with that paint with great results. The spray method makes it go on quick and smooth

[@mikedixonphoto]

xTool needs to stop adding the honeycomb as an afterthought and start with the honeycomb and design the laser machine around it. They also need to understand the customer base, and what they need (U.S. customers being able to properly cut 12" material). The xTool honeycomb's are really nice, however, they don't need a full "C" channel. They could easily get away with less frame on the top side.

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

All great points Mike.

[@ulaB]

HA. That's what you get for keeping imperial measurements! [Sorry, It's a personal habit to point out that you guys really need to go metric… ;-)]

[@ulaB]

I haven't used mine yet, but I see similar issues with what you describe. Also when you go over the frame of the HC, the material will be 1mm higher on the frame which can already result in a different cut or engrave performance? For now I do think the HC is made for smaller things.

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

I haven't has any issues with it other than the size limitation. I use the auto-measure or precise measure to overcome the additional height issue.

[@ulaB]

@@MonkeyWoodworks I was mostly thinking about the height difference between the honeycomb and the frame around it. If you have material that goes over that frame, it's a mm higher than the rest of the material.

[@eloiseramos8876]

How do you get the after market one

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

Check my previous video. I have a link to it in the description along with a discount code.

[@shawnababiak1932]

Have you tried it with the slate flat mode?

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

Yes, that is how i use it. Slat flat, and i auto-measure the thickness. A 3mm board measures 5.5mm or so in slat flat mode due to the xTool honeycomb sitting slightly above where the slats would be.

[@shawnababiak1932]

@@MonkeyWoodworks thank you so much.

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

You are welcome.

[@toasterboy85]

Which honeycomb would you buy again?

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

Honestly, you can't go wrong with either one.

[@neilrisley6667]

What's the difference in length between the 2 different honeycombs please? You only mentioned the width/thickness. Both are badly designed imo (& both also emphasize a flaw in the P2 design) I wonder why no one has thought about designing honeycomb that slides into the riser base (hence giving the ability for the honeycomb area to fit full size sheets) The pins that come with the xtool honeycomb are useless if sheets are larger/same size than the honeycomb area 🤷‍♂️

[@MonkeyWoodworks]

I will be adding the differences to my shared document. I didn't show it in the video because my Esty honeycomb is a little shorter than what you get when you order it now. The idea about it sliding into the riser base is not a bad idea. The downside is you have to use open plane to get down that far and you greatly reduce the working area of the P2.