First Steps: Stay Stitching and The Hong Kong Seam Finish

[@katherinehenry7382]

I have only today discovered your videos. I LOVE your care explanations. Thank you.

[@marinamartinez6886]

Great instruction and demonstration. 👍👍👍

[@rooma284]

Daryl can i just say a HUGE thank you for sharing your expertise I'm fairly new to sewing and its my first time cutting my handwoven cloth you have been by my side every step keep enjoying what you love

[@yarncloud8121]

I have been weaving for about 5 years and have all the scarves I and my family would need for several lifetimes. Information on the ways to successfully turn weaving cloth into clothing is something I've been searching for. Thank you so much for providing such clear vids and written directions on every aspect. I'm very excited to try making my first tunic and vest.

[@TheWeaverSews]

Wonderful!

[@ceritat625]

Great video as always! I love my 6600p, it's a great machine and the fact Janome still makes them says something :).

[@TheWeaverSews]

Couldn't agree more!

[@gaynormainwaring1853]

Just about to make an unlined jacket and I want to do Hong Kong seams on the inside. I’ve watched many KZbin videos to hone this new skill, which I’ve never done, although I’ve been sewing for many years. Yours is the only want that suggests doing it before assembling the garment. However, I am confused and have had conflicting advice on how to do the Hong Kong seam on the armhole/armscye. What would you advise please? (I’m in Wales, UK)

[@TheWeaverSews]

I do the Hong Kong seam finish on the armscye or armhole seam after the sleeve is installed, I think it is cleaner and isn't as bulky when the seam finish covers both seam allowances, especially if there is ease in the cap of the sleeve.

[@sandymorrison1400]

Thanks!

[@TheWeaverSews]

You bet!

[@julsbendandi9374]

Well that was terrific! One question about seam allowances. It is common in Germany to sew with one cm - when it‘s not a hem.I know many people sewists who shake their head at the 5/8 inch 1,6 cm) seam allowance. Now I am wondering if this 5/8 inch seam allowance is always necessary if I‘m going to be first stay stitching and then using a hong kong finish. (And yes my stay stitching has sometimes been visible once I have sewn a garment with a one cm allowance...😞) thanks again for your terrific videos!

[@TheWeaverSews]

For more than a half century that I've been sewing in the US, all of our patterns here have had a 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowance. I'm not completely sure why that has been the standard here, and there is indeed a push by many independent pattern designers to use less. Even some of the commercial patterns available now are being published with different seam allowance widths for different areas, like the neck. That said, because my working with handwoven fabrics is the focus here, I can highly recommend at least a 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowance, more is definitely better. As a matter of fact, there are a couple of seam finishes where I intentionally will cut 3/4" or 2cm seam allowances, like the flat-felled, which I'll eventually cover in future videos. So if your pattern doesn't have ample seam allowances, I'd add them before cutting out the fabric. A 1cm seam allowance is very narrow, and I don't think realistic for a handwoven garment. And making size adjustments after the fact isn't realistic with that narrow of a seam allowance.

[@julsbendandi9374]

Thanks for your quick and informative response! I‘ll start using a 5/8 inch seam allowance more often!